This is an awesome idea. I came here because they're selling a system on tiktok for almost $80 the only thing I will add is to label my storage bins possibly from the bottom
Hey I just built this today. Thanks for the diy idea. My spacing was 31" on stud center though not 30". Also I did my length to 80" to hold 4 per row. Works perfect.
Great video, one thing, and it might just be me, but if you could do a still frame with all the items and amount listed, would be really helpful, but idk how hard that is to edit and whatnot. Either way great idea
Hi! Thanks for watching. I was just using a normal bit extender like is found in a kit like this. The trick is to have a drill bit with a hex attachment that would fit into the extender. 🙂 Limited-time deal: DEWALT 37- Piece Screwdriving Bit Set With Square Recess Mix, Hardened Steel Hex Shank (DW2173) a.co/d/2olgmW4
Could you use a router and make channels in the 2x3s? The channel would act as rails. I'm not handy but if you think that would be a feasible idea please do a video on it😊
I'm not sure if I would consider that method for a few reasons. 1. Routing the grooves could weeken the holding strength of the 2x3. Screwing or bolting on a rail seems to have more strength. 2, a wide enough groove along the rail would be a lot of work for the router as well the person operating the router. 3. With the bins I'm using, I need the full width of the 2x3 in order for the lip to have enough clearance to slide in. This would leave no room for a grove to be cut without using a wider board. 4. With the 1.5 inch thickness, I don't think the grove could be deep enough to reliably secure the weight of the board. I could be wrong. Thanks for watching!
I feel like you missed the part with the countersink hole. I only had about 1.5" left of the material to go through before the remaining 2 inches or more went into the ceiling joist. But yes, longer would be a safer bet. Thanks!
@@wooddoofus both work too. I have a Thule roof carrier hanging from my garage ceiling. I have it full of stuff too, but then I forget what I put in it. That’s when I wish I could see inside without having to lower it.
The clear plastic ones aren't sturdy enough to hang by their rims. Now, if you're only putting pillows or something really light, clear totes might work, but realize the rims are very narrow.
My studs (ceiling joists) are perpendicular to the rails that I installed so I can space them however I need. If you don't have that option, you could bolt some 2x4s perpendicular to ceiling joists and then install the rails.
Thanks, now next question , if you drilled a pilot hole in the 2x4 so it wouldn't split, should you have drilled a pilot hole into the ceiling beam for the same reason???
This is a very simple way to do this but honestly i wouldnt trust this to hold 1 tote let alone 2 totes considering most of ny black totes have at least 25 to 60 pounds in each one and ur using a lag screw to go all the way thru a 2x6 cut in half so a 2x3 which everyone knows all wood 2x6s and 2x4s and 2x3s are not those exact measurments often there 1 1/2"-1 3/4" thick not 2 full inches and there 2 1/2- 2 3/4 inches for width of a 2x3 and 2x4 width is half inch shy of 4 inches being 3.l 1/2 inch and so on my point is now ur putting a lag bolt in multiple spots all the way threw the board which is only 1 1/2-3/4 inches thick making it very possible to split right in the middle and it only takes one side for a board to split and there goes not one crate but in ur case 2 crates being lets say conservative of 10 to 20 pounds so are u really gonna trust this being mounted over ur head mounted in a halfassed sort of way at tue very least id throw some heavy duty mounting adheasive in btween the board u drilled thru and the ceiling as well as filling that entire hole to give those hairline splits and cracks from the hole splintering to the next hole a fighting chance and fill it and the lag screw with some hd mounting glue or epoxy something otherwise id use another board just like the one u have on the bottom but on the top but say 3.5 to 4 inches wide screwed and glued and screw that board from the top and counter sink it or use a pan head wood mounting screw with good weight ratings now u drill ur holes on either side and ur holes are going thru the grain not thru and parallel with the grain causing splitting and severely damaging its strength 10 to 20 pound boxand more falling 1.5 to 4 ft onto ur head could kill u or make u have to wear a helmet and have help eating speaking wiping ur ass etc or if it falls on a child thats half ur hieght id expect critical harm even my way of mounting or how id do it id not trust id mount 2 ractchet straps for every 2 storage crate mounting racks having there hooks lagged right into the ceiling joists and ratcheted tight to keep crates from falling if my mounts fail in anyway
Do what you gotta do. Mine have been holding for years now. If I walked through the worked cass scenio every time I wanted to do something, I would never get anything done.
Why no talk of weight rating of the BOTTOM of the span Truss? Very expensive damage is likely if even a little weight is suspended from the bottom of a Truss. At the least I would run support cables to the top beam of the Truss. I did subscribe though. Some good ideas.
![ILLSLICK - THE KING'S LANDING [Freestyle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/feIJJnNkTfk/mqdefault.jpg)
Cheaper and safer to buy metal rails nowadays. But good idea other than side sliding the totes, it is easier to access them by front sliding them in.
I love Honesty. Gives the rest of us hope. Mistakes happen. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
This is an awesome idea. I came here because they're selling a system on tiktok for almost $80 the only thing I will add is to label my storage bins possibly from the bottom
Thanks for watching! Good luck on your project.
Hey I just built this today. Thanks for the diy idea. My spacing was 31" on stud center though not 30". Also I did my length to 80" to hold 4 per row. Works perfect.
Great! Glad it's working for you!
That's a great idea! I need to add more storage in my garage and this looks to be a very effective way to utilize the unused space.
Sounds like a plan! 👍
2"x3": the underrated little brother of the 2"x4"
I subscribed as soon as you said "Wood Doofus"! Best name ever!
@@bryanshiflet awesome😅Thanks!
Same. Love it. Best name and disclaimer combo
Darkwing Duck shirt earned my sub!
Awesome 🤣 thanks!
I have those same ceiling lights. They’re a great value.
Yeah, I like them. One of mine went out. I wish they sold individual replacements. Thanks for watching!
Great video, one thing, and it might just be me, but if you could do a still frame with all the items and amount listed, would be really helpful, but idk how hard that is to edit and whatnot. Either way great idea
Thanks, good idea!
awesome idea! can't wait to do something similar for my garage. Also I see you're a makita fan and those barrina lights up on the ceiling :)
You called it! Thanks for checking out the video!
Great idea! I am going to try this out, do you have a link for the extender that you used for drilling the pilot holes?
Hi! Thanks for watching.
I was just using a normal bit extender like is found in a kit like this. The trick is to have a drill bit with a hex attachment that would fit into the extender. 🙂
Limited-time deal: DEWALT 37- Piece Screwdriving Bit Set With Square Recess Mix, Hardened Steel Hex Shank (DW2173) a.co/d/2olgmW4
Could you use a router and make channels in the 2x3s? The channel would act as rails. I'm not handy but if you think that would be a feasible idea please do a video on it😊
I'm not sure if I would consider that method for a few reasons. 1. Routing the grooves could weeken the holding strength of the 2x3. Screwing or bolting on a rail seems to have more strength. 2, a wide enough groove along the rail would be a lot of work for the router as well the person operating the router. 3. With the bins I'm using, I need the full width of the 2x3 in order for the lip to have enough clearance to slide in. This would leave no room for a grove to be cut without using a wider board. 4. With the 1.5 inch thickness, I don't think the grove could be deep enough to reliably secure the weight of the board. I could be wrong.
Thanks for watching!
@wooddoofus wow, I appreciate your perspective especially from someone who's mechanically inclined. Thanks and I subscribed!
Do you have to put pilot holes in the joist or studs in the ceiling so they don’t split?
That is a good idea if you can find a way to do it. The lags have a self tapping tip but I bet that only goes so far.
3 1/2” lag screws going through 3” of the 2x3? So only 1/2” into the truss and half of that is the ceiling drywall. Why not longer lag bolts?
I feel like you missed the part with the countersink hole. I only had about 1.5" left of the material to go through before the remaining 2 inches or more went into the ceiling joist. But yes, longer would be a safer bet. Thanks!
Oh okay. I saw the countersink but didn’t realize you did that to the 2x3 as well. Thanks!
Looks great, but I think I would use clear plastic bins, to see what’s in them without having to take them down.
Smart idea. Father in law said labels on the bottom would be good too.
@@wooddoofus both work too. I have a Thule roof carrier hanging from my garage ceiling. I have it full of stuff too, but then I forget what I put in it. That’s when I wish I could see inside without having to lower it.
The clear plastic ones aren't sturdy enough to hang by their rims. Now, if you're only putting pillows or something really light, clear totes might work, but realize the rims are very narrow.
This guy is great.
Gotta be mobile to get to them though
How much weight do you think those totes would hold being up there
Not sure but I just keep light weight camping gear in there mostly.
How do I make this work if my studs are 16” apart?
My studs (ceiling joists) are perpendicular to the rails that I installed so I can space them however I need. If you don't have that option, you could bolt some 2x4s perpendicular to ceiling joists and then install the rails.
What size bit did you use for the pilot hole?
It was probably 1/8 or thereabouts.
Thanks, now next question , if you drilled a pilot hole in the 2x4 so it wouldn't split, should you have drilled a pilot hole into the ceiling beam for the same reason???
I'm sure pilot holes in the ceiling joist would be a better practice. I suppose I was just lazy and taking a calculated risk.
Yep, same here👊👊
Very good work
Thanks!
It’s a good idea. But I don’t think I would put much weight in them, I don’t trust the totes.
Yeah, I just put camping gear like tents and sleeping bags.
Awesome idea, what would you say a good weight per tote would be.
With the lags, I bet they could hold 50 to 75 lbs per tote. But I don't have any scientific research to back that up.
5 pounds per square foot loading .
Very good idea 👍
Thanks!
nice and simple!!!!!!
Just the way I like it!
just subscribed !
Thank you! Welcome to club Doofus.😁
nice
Thanks!
This is a very simple way to do this but honestly i wouldnt trust this to hold 1 tote let alone 2 totes considering most of ny black totes have at least 25 to 60 pounds in each one and ur using a lag screw to go all the way thru a 2x6 cut in half so a 2x3 which everyone knows all wood 2x6s and 2x4s and 2x3s are not those exact measurments often there 1 1/2"-1 3/4" thick not 2 full inches and there 2 1/2- 2 3/4 inches for width of a 2x3 and 2x4 width is half inch shy of 4 inches being 3.l 1/2 inch and so on my point is now ur putting a lag bolt in multiple spots all the way threw the board which is only 1 1/2-3/4 inches thick making it very possible to split right in the middle and it only takes one side for a board to split and there goes not one crate but in ur case 2 crates being lets say conservative of 10 to 20 pounds so are u really gonna trust this being mounted over ur head mounted in a halfassed sort of way at tue very least id throw some heavy duty mounting adheasive in btween the board u drilled thru and the ceiling as well as filling that entire hole to give those hairline splits and cracks from the hole splintering to the next hole a fighting chance and fill it and the lag screw with some hd mounting glue or epoxy something otherwise id use another board just like the one u have on the bottom but on the top but say 3.5 to 4 inches wide screwed and glued and screw that board from the top and counter sink it or use a pan head wood mounting screw with good weight ratings now u drill ur holes on either side and ur holes are going thru the grain not thru and parallel with the grain causing splitting and severely damaging its strength 10 to 20 pound boxand more falling 1.5 to 4 ft onto ur head could kill u or make u have to wear a helmet and have help eating speaking wiping ur ass etc or if it falls on a child thats half ur hieght id expect critical harm even my way of mounting or how id do it id not trust id mount 2 ractchet straps for every 2 storage crate mounting racks having there hooks lagged right into the ceiling joists and ratcheted tight to keep crates from falling if my mounts fail in anyway
Do what you gotta do. Mine have been holding for years now. If I walked through the worked cass scenio every time I wanted to do something, I would never get anything done.
If you have heavy stuff , use heavier operation materials . Common sense .
Why no talk of weight rating of the BOTTOM of the span Truss? Very expensive damage is likely if even a little weight is suspended from the bottom of a Truss. At the least I would run support cables to the top beam of the Truss. I did subscribe though. Some good ideas.
Those are great points to consider for anybody who wants to try something like this. Thanks for the input.