I should mention that I would normally have the dust extractor switched on while sanding MDF, it's no fun breathing the dust. And when I say "I don't know if you can feel that", what I really mean is "I don't know if you can hear that"
This video was exactly what I was looking for. I found the product recommendation really helpful and I feel confident that I can create a professional finish to MDF
I'm doing a table top with MDF (first time using MDF), and you convinced me to seal the edges first before starting the priming and painting process. I'm really glad I saw your video before I did anything else, and being able to see the magnified examples really made the point - thanks!
Thank you! Excellent and to the point. I've often heard about sanding MDF after the first coat but I'd never really seen the case made so succinctly as with your magnified comparison.
i signed in to upvote and throw this comment on here. very good video man, props. the magnified close up was a brilliant visual of what is happening and why things need to be done as you say and do. brilliant
Just wanted to say. Thanked you for the video ages ago and totally forgot to say followed info and sanded and painted and now my lads bed looks ace. Thanks again. Dave
I used some of the any surface paint from a well known hardware store and followed the instructions, 12 hours before recoat and 10 days to fully cure and finished the surface off with a bees wax coat. Didn’t bother with a primer, very pleased with the results very hard wearing. Worth a try.
Thanks for that point about Leyland paint which by pure fluke having a paint shop virtually across the road from me, that I went into two years ago after buying some MDF wood because I could believe the prices of canvas acrylic and oil boards and been using that. Nearly use it all up and have been thinking as my paintings are getting better I need to move on to more expensive boards but if it is good enough for you, then it is certainly good enough for me.
Really great vídeo, so if you were building a wardrobe would you paint all sides of all the pieces? And how about the painting, what kind of paint would you recommend for a semigloss finish. And what tools would you paint it with for a smooth finish? Thanks allot.
I’ve tried almost every imaginable technique on MDF edges from PVA glue to diluted emulsion to shellac to Leyland and various fancy pants primers and I came to the conclusion that it when it comes to paint it almost doesn’t matter what you put on the edge because the first coat will leave it as rough as rock whatever you use. The trick is in the sanding and applying more coats and more sanding and more coats until you get the right texture. These days it’s definitely Leyland for me without question but in the absence of that it’s diluted emulsion.
Okay I just tested this stuff you recommended and you aren't kidding, it's the dogs nuts. Lays on thick and dries quick. Able to sand it down in just an hour to a nice smooth finish with little effort.
Ahh the old edge grain mdf problem..... this seems to be one of the biggest issues with mdf. Ive tried all sorts, shellac based sand n sealer works ok to. I make bespoke toyboxes so everything I use now has to be childsafe products, Ive found that applying any waterbased primer will do the trick. give it a sand forst and then paint., once this is dry re apply primer for a second coat and then resand. you should then be able to top coat.. hope this helps a little
Any kind of gloss or eggshell will stand up to a bit of damp. The more coats the better, and paint everything, even if it's not visible! MDF will suck moisture out of a damp atmosphere.
I have used acrylic primer rarely for mdf, got the jobs done. But it doesn't make mdf durable in my opinion. Oil seems to seal, and sand better, and have better moisture hold out. I've just put up a video of Intro to prepping and painting MDF, if anyone is interested. Can I put a link?
Very helpful video! I am fixing up a MDF bathroom cabinet that has minor damage from humidity on the edges and I need to fill in holes where the hinges were because I need the door to open from the other side. I want to spray it with Anne Sloans lacquer spray paint to get that high shine and protection from humidity in a bathroom. Will Kilz 1-2-3 Spray Primer be enough to seal the MDF before painting? Any advice is appreciated!
I've not used it myself, I would worry that a spray might not adequately 'fill' any furry bits because it goes on so thin, but give it a go and let us know if it works!
Great video. I will have sand down some intricate shapes cut from MDF. any recommendations on sanding tools? A dremel maybe? There aren't many straight edges. THanks
Totally depends on the shape, but generally I just use paper and my hands. A tightly folded wad of sandpaper will get into all the nooks and crannies while a sheet held loosely in the palm works for sweeping curves, but only if they've got rounded edges, if it's a flat face on a curve, I'd buy (or more likely make!) a curved sanding block. Hope that makes sense!
I'm sorry, I have no idea. I suspect mdf primer would be similar. If you have an independent paint shop near you that would be the best place to get advice. Good luck!
I made a cabinet top out of 3/4 mdf that I'm gonna paint. do you think it's better to edge band it with hardwood or do you think the sanding method will work just fine
Art Connolly Hi. If done properly, you can get a flawless finish with paint. If you're worried about getting the finish you want, apply a second coat of the primer/undercoat and reckon with at least 2 topcoats. That said, it's never a bad idea to have a hardwood edge to a cabinet top!
Hi,great video, as I am about to paint some MDF office furniture I've just made I am curious to know that once it's been primered with the Leyland acrylic primer paint can you then use any other type of paint as your final colour or does it have to be an acrylic based paint for the finished coat ?
Nice video! I'm painting an old MDF display cabinet that had a dark stain on it - I've sanded off most of it, does it matter that there is a bit of the old stain left before applying the undercoat?
Really excellent video. Very helpful. I already used an MDF sealer. Should I now sand and use an undercoat too? These are big built in cupboards. I don't want a glossy / shiny finish, but not Matt either, so I can wipe down. What finish would you recommend?
Thanks for making this awesome video! Wondering if there is a comparable product in the states where I am. For whatever reason this product is 8x or 9x MORE expensive in the USSA. Also what kind of paint can I go over this with? Any paint at all? Is this OK to use under a single stage or 2 stage finish? Thanks for sharing your expertise. It really saves us new people time, money and mistakes!
Like your presentation style. I've just stripped the coating from my kitchen cupboards. On a few doors there are patches where the mdf is really fuzzy / furry as if moisture has got under the coating. No swelling, just fuzz. Can you tell me please if I should sand those areas before I prime.
Came across your video today, very useful. Wish I'd seen it before I applied the primer for wood on my MDF shelves (not acrylic primer) and it created many bubbles, I wonder if you know a way for me to rectify the situation? Appreciate your response.
These close ups to sanding surfaces are awesome! Thank you the video, very helpful! Could you please recommend me a top coat paint for a office desk surface after mdf priming? I'm afraid that my table will be scratched quickly because of my top coat choise.
No problem. Also, remember that a desk is a tool like any other. If it gets marked or scratched, so what? As long as it still works as a desk, you can still be proud you made it!
I am doing a school project and was wondering if spray painting MDF with a paper stencil would be an okay way to go. It doesn't need to look amazing just good.
Teagan Karly sure, as a throwaway project you could just spray paint right onto it, if you want it to last, it'll need primer and undercoat, but spraying over a paper stencil will work great. Good luck!
Thanks for this video i am hoping to remove the melamine off my kitchen cabinet doors and then paint them to save ££££ so using this method and paint may help me out.
Joshua A spray paint will work great, but it is really unforgiving, so I would probably give the edges 2 coats of primer, sanding in between. Good luck!
Dulux satin white; it's for a cupboard I'm making for the spare room. I'm just a weekend saw dust maker, so only pocket holes and simple drawers. Would you use a ROS with 240 grit to sand between coats?
Hi there, can you please advise if this undercoat would be suitable if my topcoat is navy blue or should I go for a grey or even black undercoat? Its for mdf kitchen cupboards. Thanks.
@@woodthaticould4432 I have never painted MDF before. We have stripped off the plastic coating from kitchen cupboard doors and found very good, but not waterproof, MDF underneath. The cupboards are of good quality and we want to paint the doors instead of replacing them. Currently we are gathering information to do the best possible job. Thanks for your input.
Hi I have removed the laminated front from my kitchen units and they are mdf all in good condition can I do what you have done then use a satin wood paint or egg shell also is there anything I can seal it with due to it being the kitchen x
Goin' renegade and rippin' up yer kitchen, I like it! I would guess that the doors are coated in glue residue? If it isn't tacky or spongy you could just sand it smooth (use a mask, you don't want to breathe that dust) and try painting straight on it. Do a test, see if the paint sticks. Remember if you sand through to clean MDF, that'll need priming, but I don't think wood primer will work on glue infused MDF. In terms of sealing, eggshell is you all washable so you shouldn't need anything else. Good luck!
No glue on it all came off with the laminate have lighted sanded them and cleaned over have done a all purpose undercoat on one then sanded and now second coat is drying once dried I'm going too try satin wood I'm doing a test door first but I think it's going too work x
Depends on the weather, but a couple of hours at least. It should feel totally dry. Even when it's not sticky it will still feel cold and damp until it's ready.
@@woodthaticould4432Thanks for the fast reply. I've just painted the primer outside so I'll wait longer until I apply the gloss. I was just going to wait about 30 minutes cos it's a sunny day (but it's in the shade) so thanks for that.
hey i need help what grit sanding paper do i use to sand edges and also grit size for between prime coats. And one more question after mdf is primed and first coat of paint is applied what grit sand paper should i use between paints. thank you
DRIPn VAPE Hi, on routed or cut edges sand with about 180. As per the video, you won't get it really smooth till you sand after primer, which you can do with 180 again, then 240 if you do a second coat, which I usually don't bother with. As for the topcoat, if you're using any kind of gloss/eggshell/acrylic type paint, you shouldn't need to sand. If you're talking chalk paint or something then 240 grit at least. Good luck!
Im looking at making some Plantation Blinds from MDF and toying with the idea of spraying primer and top coat. Have you used any of this product in a spray gun and if you have would it need sanding, Great vid by the way, regards Adrian
Hi, trawl through the comments, there's a discussion about spraying. Consensus is that it works great. Use your fingertips to determine if you need to sand flat areas but you'll need to sand cut edges regardless. Good luck!
Hi, I'm guessing you're from the USA ("big box" gave you away!), here in the UK there's no such thing as cabinet grade Mdf, not as far as I'm aware anyway. The stuff I'm using here is just standard Mdf, but the method works just as well with moisture resistant. Can you explain the difference between big box and cabinet grade, I'd be interested to know? However, given that time is the biggest investment in an Mdf project I would get the best you can afford.
@@woodthaticould4432 There's something called MRMDF available -- but not limited to -- from the UK "big box" stores such as Wickes, B&Q, etc. I haven't worked with it, but I understand it's pre-treated to protect against moisture and the like. I think it has a green surface or something along those lines. It's more expensive than the standard MDF sheets for obvious reasons.
Jay k that is correct. I always use the green stuff for kitchen or bathroom furniture. I have also discovered something called 'medite' mdf which is supposed to be more dense and moisture resistant even though its brown. This is probably what you might call 'furniture grade'. You won't find it in big box stores though. On a related note, I was forced by circumstance to get a sheet of 6mm from b&q recently which was noticeably lower quality than anything I've seen before. It was a lot less stiff and had a furry texture to the faces.
@@woodthaticould4432 There's noticeable differences in the quality of sheet materials even from one UK DIY store to the next. Wickes is probably the default "decent" place to get timber for the DIY enthusiast who has an eye for quality. Even then, one's gotta be careful and inspect the timber personally else they do try to get away with selling damaged or poor quality stuff. But, yes, I don't foresee myself tackling any project that requires me to go the MRMDF or Medite route. Tbh, the standard MDF, as long as it's in good shape, is decent for my requirements.
Wood That I Could thank you! I'm getting some floating shelves installed next week and am not sure whether to paint them in eggshell or satin! Never had them before so just want to make sure I definitely make the right choice :)
Hi. Great video. Very useful tips. One question. Post primer. Post sanding down. Is it necessary to wipe with a damp cloth as I've read elsewhere? Cheers. Dave
Hi, thanks! I normally blast it off with compressed air, but failing that a good wipe with a dry cloth will do. I use blue paper roll so you can see if it's still dusty. If it's still dusty, you'll notice that the top coat doesn't seem to stick when you apply it.
I'd be wary of using anything damp, it's easy to sand almost through the primer leaving a barely protected patch of MDF, and I wouldn't want it to get damp.
Dean Martin Hi. No, but I have covered it using spray cans, which gave an excellent finish, except on a couple of cut edges which I think could have done with a second coat of primer/undercoat. It would have been fine with brushed on gloss or eggshell.
+Wood That I Could sorry, just to clarify, have you applied the Leyland trade primer using a HVLP sprayer? Or should it only be applied with a brush or roller?
Dean Martin my mistake, I see what you mean! I have not sprayed it on, no. I like the feeling that you can really smoosh it into the cut edges with a brush and it sands so easily that you don't need to worry about brush marks.
+Wood That I Could I'll give both a go so. Thanks for the info. I've already tried Fleetwood Mdf primer but the results ain't great so looking forward to try this now.
You could use sealer, but why bother if your undercoat will do the job just as well? Beware of paint manufacturers claims that you need 5 different products to achieve a good finish!
@@woodthaticould4432 I'm doing a job atm and was just going through yt and this popped up... it must of heard me saying bout priming and sealing the MDF, built in wardrobes and bed,but its raw, I've seen the acrylic undercoat and primer your using there, I can get it locally too lol...I live in Ireland.
I read somewhere NEVER use a water base paint on MDF because it can cause exactly what you are trying to avoid, furry edges. The water in the paint swells the wood, not good.
Quite right, if you used it without a primer which seals the MDF, you could get problems. I know the primer I use in this video is water based, but it is very quick drying and never causes a problem. It's thick and kind of gloopy so I assume it also has some clever chemicals to prevent it from behaving as water would and being sucked into the MDF.
Wood That I Could On the contrary, you should make it your signature line. Whenever your talking about the feel or sound, casually ask them if they feel it or how it feels to them. That would be hillarious
![THE TOYS x NONT TANONT - ดอกไม้ที่รอฝน (spring) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pPa1d5cC8M4/mqdefault.jpg)
I should mention that I would normally have the dust extractor switched on while sanding MDF, it's no fun breathing the dust. And when I say "I don't know if you can feel that", what I really mean is "I don't know if you can hear that"
I enjoyed your "I don't know if you can feel that" 🤣🤣 it gave me a good laugh!
@@mrsnatalieann feel O vision, he's just ahead of his time.
Excellent, showing the magnification, which puts the demonstration into perspective. Good upload.
This video was exactly what I was looking for. I found the product recommendation really helpful and I feel confident that I can create a professional finish to MDF
I'm doing a table top with MDF (first time using MDF), and you convinced me to seal the edges first before starting the priming and painting process. I'm really glad I saw your video before I did anything else, and being able to see the magnified examples really made the point - thanks!
Thank you! Excellent and to the point. I've often heard about sanding MDF after the first coat but I'd never really seen the case made so succinctly as with your magnified comparison.
i signed in to upvote and throw this comment on here. very good video man, props. the magnified close up was a brilliant visual of what is happening and why things need to be done as you say and do. brilliant
Well done mate, great video full of information and seeing the finish under a magnifier was brilliant, Thank you.
Thank you. I will be using MDF for the first time and this has been very helpful.
Really great video. I'm glad I watched it before I primed my MDF . Thank you very helpful!
Just wanted to say. Thanked you for the video ages ago and totally forgot to say followed info and sanded and painted and now my lads bed looks ace. Thanks again. Dave
Thanks for the comeback Dave! Glad it worked well for you!
I love the name of your channel, a great play on words. Thank you for your v informative vid on priming MDF. cheers
Pip C thanks!
Thank you so very much for sharing this! I am going to do that!
Great video! So glad I saw this before jumping straight into the painting.
Say 10 happy to help!
Really informative video. Great vid!!
Thanks for this, I found it really interesting very helpful.
great video... thank you for sharing your expertise
I used some of the any surface paint from a well known hardware store and followed the instructions, 12 hours before recoat and 10 days to fully cure and finished the surface off with a bees wax coat. Didn’t bother with a primer, very pleased with the results very hard wearing. Worth a try.
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for that point about Leyland paint which by pure fluke having a paint shop virtually across the road from me, that I went into two years ago after buying some MDF wood because I could believe the prices of canvas acrylic and oil boards and been using that. Nearly use it all up and have been thinking as my paintings are getting better I need to move on to more expensive boards but if it is good enough for you, then it is certainly good enough for me.
Really cool to make a video like this, makes such a difference to my job to have the advice there so thank you so much
quizzed you are very welcome!
No one explains it like you... thank you so much
You're welcome!
thanks helped me loads ,been looking for a good mdf primer that doesn't cost the world .
danny flint Good man, glad to help.
Good video. Thank you for sharing. Good tips indeed.
excellent video mate!
stripped laminate from my kitchen units and followed these instructions to paint looks really good
Happy to hear it!
This was very helpful, thank you.
Excellent video , just what i needed to know.
Glad to help!
great video especially the magnified close ups
George M thanks!
great
Hi. Great vídeo. thanks for that. I am going to paint my stairs as I pulled the carpet off. I am looking for clear primer, any recomendation?
Really great vídeo, so if you were building a wardrobe would you paint all sides of all the pieces? And how about the painting, what kind of paint would you recommend for a semigloss finish. And what tools would you paint it with for a smooth finish?
Thanks allot.
excellent video - thank you!
What's the best paint for the top coat?
Would the Leyland acrylic primer ok to use acrylic paints on top once dryed
I’ve tried almost every imaginable technique on MDF edges from PVA glue to diluted emulsion to shellac to Leyland and various fancy pants primers and I came to the conclusion that it when it comes to paint it almost doesn’t matter what you put on the edge because the first coat will leave it as rough as rock whatever you use. The trick is in the sanding and applying more coats and more sanding and more coats until you get the right texture. These days it’s definitely Leyland for me without question but in the absence of that it’s diluted emulsion.
Thanks for this, very helpful. That primer is not available where I am but my supplier has provided something similar.
Thanks, good luck!
very useful; thanks for showing the magnified views
Great , Thanks for video !!!!
I’m in the USA. Can’t find Leyland products here. Do you know what I could use in place of the Leyland product?
Just what I was looking for, thanks
Okay I just tested this stuff you recommended and you aren't kidding, it's the dogs nuts. Lays on thick and dries quick. Able to sand it down in just an hour to a nice smooth finish with little effort.
Very informative. Thank you.
You're welcome!
great video, thank you
Ahh the old edge grain mdf problem..... this seems to be one of the biggest issues with mdf. Ive tried all sorts, shellac based sand n sealer works ok to. I make bespoke toyboxes so everything I use now has to be childsafe products, Ive found that applying any waterbased primer will do the trick. give it a sand forst and then paint., once this is dry re apply primer for a second coat and then resand. you should then be able to top coat.. hope this helps a little
This is a great video. Thanks you! What kind of paint specifically do you recommend for that top coat if the cabinets are in a bathroom?
Any kind of gloss or eggshell will stand up to a bit of damp. The more coats the better, and paint everything, even if it's not visible! MDF will suck moisture out of a damp atmosphere.
I have used acrylic primer rarely for mdf, got the jobs done. But it doesn't make mdf durable in my opinion. Oil seems to seal, and sand better, and have better moisture hold out.
I've just put up a video of Intro to prepping and painting MDF, if anyone is interested. Can I put a link?
Very helpful video! I am fixing up a MDF bathroom cabinet that has minor damage from humidity on the edges and I need to fill in holes where the hinges were because I need the door to open from the other side. I want to spray it with Anne Sloans lacquer spray paint to get that high shine and protection from humidity in a bathroom. Will Kilz 1-2-3 Spray Primer be enough to seal the MDF before painting? Any advice is appreciated!
I've not used it myself, I would worry that a spray might not adequately 'fill' any furry bits because it goes on so thin, but give it a go and let us know if it works!
Great video very helpful! Cheers from Argentina!
Is PVA glue an idea???
Very helpful thank you?
Great video. I will have sand down some intricate shapes cut from MDF. any recommendations on sanding tools? A dremel maybe? There aren't many straight edges. THanks
Totally depends on the shape, but generally I just use paper and my hands. A tightly folded wad of sandpaper will get into all the nooks and crannies while a sheet held loosely in the palm works for sweeping curves, but only if they've got rounded edges, if it's a flat face on a curve, I'd buy (or more likely make!) a curved sanding block. Hope that makes sense!
Is there a US equivalent of that leyland acrylic primer undercoat? It unfortunately seems to only be available in the UK.
I'm sorry, I have no idea. I suspect mdf primer would be similar. If you have an independent paint shop near you that would be the best place to get advice. Good luck!
I made a cabinet top out of 3/4 mdf that I'm gonna paint. do you think it's better to edge band it with hardwood or do you think the sanding method will work just fine
Art Connolly Hi. If done properly, you can get a flawless finish with paint. If you're worried about getting the finish you want, apply a second coat of the primer/undercoat and reckon with at least 2 topcoats. That said, it's never a bad idea to have a hardwood edge to a cabinet top!
Hi,great video, as I am about to paint some MDF office furniture I've just made I am curious to know that once it's been primered with the Leyland acrylic primer paint can you then use any other type of paint as your final colour or does it have to be an acrylic based paint for the finished coat ?
Any paint you like! Good luck!!
Helpful video. Thanks. So can you paint emulsion over that now?
Sure thing!
Nice video! I'm painting an old MDF display cabinet that had a dark stain on it - I've sanded off most of it, does it matter that there is a bit of the old stain left before applying the undercoat?
No as long as it has been sanded it should be fine. Good luck!
Why you don't have a close up of the finish coat product
can you use an electric sander for sanding the acrylic/gesso layer? it comes with vaccum for the dust. thanks!
You can, but be really careful, the acrylic sands easily, and use 240 grit at least. Good luck!
Very helpful
Really excellent video. Very helpful. I already used an MDF sealer. Should I now sand and use an undercoat too? These are big built in cupboards. I don't want a glossy / shiny finish, but not Matt either, so I can wipe down. What finish would you recommend?
Sand then undercoat. The final finish is dictated by what topcoat you use. Sounds to me like you want eggshell or similar. Happy painting!
Wood That I Could Thanks!
Thanks for making this awesome video! Wondering if there is a comparable product in the states where I am. For whatever reason this product is 8x or 9x MORE expensive in the USSA. Also what kind of paint can I go over this with? Any paint at all? Is this OK to use under a single stage or 2 stage finish? Thanks for sharing your expertise. It really saves us new people time, money and mistakes!
Don't know about products in the US I'm afraid, it'll be trial and error! Check with the supplier what is suitable as a topcoat.
Like your presentation style. I've just stripped the coating from my kitchen cupboards. On a few doors there are patches where the mdf is really fuzzy / furry as if moisture has got under the coating. No swelling, just fuzz. Can you tell me please if I should sand those areas before I prime.
Thanks! Give it a quick sand before, but you really get rid of the fuzz when sanding after priming. Good luck!
Wood That I Could thank you for your prompt reply. I'm off to start now
Thank you for your useful demo
Came across your video today, very useful. Wish I'd seen it before I applied the primer for wood on my MDF shelves (not acrylic primer) and it created many bubbles, I wonder if you know a way for me to rectify the situation? Appreciate your response.
Sand off the bubbles with 240 grit paper and re-coat if necessary, then apply top coat. It should be OK!
These close ups to sanding surfaces are awesome! Thank you the video, very helpful!
Could you please recommend me a top coat paint for a office desk surface after mdf priming? I'm afraid that my table will be scratched quickly because of my top coat choise.
Glad it helps! Difficult for me to recommend paint, just don't get the absolute cheapest.
@@woodthaticould4432 all right, thank you for the reply
No problem. Also, remember that a desk is a tool like any other. If it gets marked or scratched, so what? As long as it still works as a desk, you can still be proud you made it!
@@woodthaticould4432 actually you're right, I have to stop trying to be perfect
Thanks for the video,. 😉
Where did you get the hand sander from that you use to sand the face
Tristan Beard Hi. I got it from Axminster, it's made by flexipads and is brilliant.
I am doing a school project and was wondering if spray painting MDF with a paper stencil would be an okay way to go. It doesn't need to look amazing just good.
Teagan Karly sure, as a throwaway project you could just spray paint right onto it, if you want it to last, it'll need primer and undercoat, but spraying over a paper stencil will work great. Good luck!
Do you know of a similar undercoat that's available in Australia?
Hi, I'm afraid I don't. Search for an all in one acrylic primer and undercoat hopefully you will find something similar! Good luck!
Thanks for this video i am hoping to remove the melamine off my kitchen cabinet doors and then paint them to save ££££ so using this method and paint may help me out.
Good luck!
thanks for the primer tip
No problem!
thanks for product recommendations 👍
I'm making a house using an MDF and is it good for me to use a spray paint after using that primer?
Joshua A spray paint will work great, but it is really unforgiving, so I would probably give the edges 2 coats of primer, sanding in between. Good luck!
Just ordered the primer from Toolstation, the best value by a stretch on the net. I'll feedback on whether it worked for me.
Thanks for the tip. What topcoat will you be using?
Dulux satin white; it's for a cupboard I'm making for the spare room. I'm just a weekend saw dust maker, so only pocket holes and simple drawers. Would you use a ROS with 240 grit to sand between coats?
Just Sand by hand between primer coats, don't sand the topcoat if you can avoid it. 240 grit is fine. Good luck!
Hi there, can you please advise if this undercoat would be suitable if my topcoat is navy blue or should I go for a grey or even black undercoat? Its for mdf kitchen cupboards. Thanks.
A darker colour would be safer, but if you're using good quality topcoat and have confidence in your painting skills it will work fine! Good luck!
Really appreciate you replying, thanks!
Amazing
Thank you!
Question: what do you think of a first coat of latex bonding liquid on MDF which is not of the waterproof variety?
I have no experience of latex bonding liquid, try it on a hidden area if you're going to use it!
@@woodthaticould4432 I have never painted MDF before. We have stripped off the plastic coating from kitchen cupboard doors and found very good, but not waterproof, MDF underneath. The cupboards are of good quality and we want to paint the doors instead of replacing them. Currently we are gathering information to do the best possible job. Thanks for your input.
Make sure to give them a good sand so whatever paint you use sticks to the residual glue. Good luck!
Hi I have removed the laminated front from my kitchen units and they are mdf all in good condition can I do what you have done then use a satin wood paint or egg shell also is there anything I can seal it with due to it being the kitchen x
Goin' renegade and rippin' up yer kitchen, I like it! I would guess that the doors are coated in glue residue? If it isn't tacky or spongy you could just sand it smooth (use a mask, you don't want to breathe that dust) and try painting straight on it. Do a test, see if the paint sticks. Remember if you sand through to clean MDF, that'll need priming, but I don't think wood primer will work on glue infused MDF. In terms of sealing, eggshell is you all washable so you shouldn't need anything else. Good luck!
No glue on it all came off with the laminate have lighted sanded them and cleaned over have done a all purpose undercoat on one then sanded and now second coat is drying once dried I'm going too try satin wood I'm doing a test door first but I think it's going too work x
It's got a good chance!
How long do you wait with this primer to dry before you apply top coat? Gloss in particular.
Depends on the weather, but a couple of hours at least. It should feel totally dry. Even when it's not sticky it will still feel cold and damp until it's ready.
@@woodthaticould4432Thanks for the fast reply. I've just painted the primer outside so I'll wait longer until I apply the gloss. I was just going to wait about 30 minutes cos it's a sunny day (but it's in the shade) so thanks for that.
hey i need help what grit sanding paper do i use to sand edges and also grit size for between prime coats. And one more question after mdf is primed and first coat of paint is applied what grit sand paper should i use between paints. thank you
DRIPn VAPE Hi, on routed or cut edges sand with about 180. As per the video, you won't get it really smooth till you sand after primer, which you can do with 180 again, then 240 if you do a second coat, which I usually don't bother with. As for the topcoat, if you're using any kind of gloss/eggshell/acrylic type paint, you shouldn't need to sand. If you're talking chalk paint or something then 240 grit at least. Good luck!
Wood That I Could thank you for your help much appreciated
Im looking at making some Plantation Blinds from MDF and toying with the idea of spraying primer and top coat. Have you used any of this product in a spray gun and if you have would it need sanding, Great vid by the way, regards Adrian
Hi, trawl through the comments, there's a discussion about spraying. Consensus is that it works great. Use your fingertips to determine if you need to sand flat areas but you'll need to sand cut edges regardless. Good luck!
thanks
Please tell me the brand of gesso you use .
Do you live in Australia ?
I don't think in Europe we can find the same brands of products .....!
Hi, I'm in England! What is gesso??
Thanks a lot🌷🌷
You're welcome!
The magnifying glass was very helpful.
Glad to help. Happy painting!
What type of mdf are using? Big box ( Home Depot ). Or cabinet grade mdf or moister resistant mdf??
Hi, I'm guessing you're from the USA ("big box" gave you away!), here in the UK there's no such thing as cabinet grade Mdf, not as far as I'm aware anyway. The stuff I'm using here is just standard Mdf, but the method works just as well with moisture resistant. Can you explain the difference between big box and cabinet grade, I'd be interested to know? However, given that time is the biggest investment in an Mdf project I would get the best you can afford.
@@woodthaticould4432 There's something called MRMDF available -- but not limited to -- from the UK "big box" stores such as Wickes, B&Q, etc. I haven't worked with it, but I understand it's pre-treated to protect against moisture and the like. I think it has a green surface or something along those lines. It's more expensive than the standard MDF sheets for obvious reasons.
Jay k that is correct. I always use the green stuff for kitchen or bathroom furniture. I have also discovered something called 'medite' mdf which is supposed to be more dense and moisture resistant even though its brown. This is probably what you might call 'furniture grade'. You won't find it in big box stores though. On a related note, I was forced by circumstance to get a sheet of 6mm from b&q recently which was noticeably lower quality than anything I've seen before. It was a lot less stiff and had a furry texture to the faces.
@@woodthaticould4432 There's noticeable differences in the quality of sheet materials even from one UK DIY store to the next. Wickes is probably the default "decent" place to get timber for the DIY enthusiast who has an eye for quality. Even then, one's gotta be careful and inspect the timber personally else they do try to get away with selling damaged or poor quality stuff. But, yes, I don't foresee myself tackling any project that requires me to go the MRMDF or Medite route. Tbh, the standard MDF, as long as it's in good shape, is decent for my requirements.
Which top coat do you recommend please?
Totally up to you. I often use leyland trade eggshell.
Wood That I Could thank you! I'm getting some floating shelves installed next week and am not sure whether to paint them in eggshell or satin! Never had them before so just want to make sure I definitely make the right choice :)
Eggshell is quite forgiving and easy to apply with a small foam roller.
Good
Hi. Great video. Very useful tips. One question. Post primer. Post sanding down. Is it necessary to wipe with a damp cloth as I've read elsewhere? Cheers. Dave
Hi, thanks! I normally blast it off with compressed air, but failing that a good wipe with a dry cloth will do. I use blue paper roll so you can see if it's still dusty. If it's still dusty, you'll notice that the top coat doesn't seem to stick when you apply it.
I'd be wary of using anything damp, it's easy to sand almost through the primer leaving a barely protected patch of MDF, and I wouldn't want it to get damp.
Have you tried using the primer with a HVLP sprayer?
Dean Martin Hi. No, but I have covered it using spray cans, which gave an excellent finish, except on a couple of cut edges which I think could have done with a second coat of primer/undercoat. It would have been fine with brushed on gloss or eggshell.
+Wood That I Could sorry, just to clarify, have you applied the Leyland trade primer using a HVLP sprayer? Or should it only be applied with a brush or roller?
Dean Martin my mistake, I see what you mean! I have not sprayed it on, no. I like the feeling that you can really smoosh it into the cut edges with a brush and it sands so easily that you don't need to worry about brush marks.
+Wood That I Could I'll give both a go so. Thanks for the info. I've already tried Fleetwood Mdf primer but the results ain't great so looking forward to try this now.
Dean Martin great stuff, please let me know how it goes with the hvlp.
I thought you use mdf sealer mm
You could use sealer, but why bother if your undercoat will do the job just as well? Beware of paint manufacturers claims that you need 5 different products to achieve a good finish!
Nice tip cheers..
You're welcome!
@@woodthaticould4432 I'm doing a job atm and was just going through yt and this popped up... it must of heard me saying bout priming and sealing the MDF, built in wardrobes and bed,but its raw, I've seen the acrylic undercoat and primer your using there, I can get it locally too lol...I live in Ireland.
Haha! Good luck with it!
@@woodthaticould4432 cheers and again thanks for that tip... I ll give it a try ...
I read somewhere NEVER use a water base paint on MDF because it can cause exactly what you are trying to avoid, furry edges. The water in the paint swells the wood, not good.
Quite right, if you used it without a primer which seals the MDF, you could get problems. I know the primer I use in this video is water based, but it is very quick drying and never causes a problem. It's thick and kind of gloopy so I assume it also has some clever chemicals to prevent it from behaving as water would and being sucked into the MDF.
If you think that Leyland stuff is good you need to try Tikkurila Otex. Best primer I ever found.
Ollie S thanks, I'll give it a try!
But Otex not for MDF, its expensive, smelly and it's for glass, tile etc.
3:40 'I don't know if you can feel that." Well, it is a video, so no I can't. BTW, using the magnifying glass was a cool idea.
SELF-RELIANCE and a STRONG COMMUNITY lmao. My thoughts exactly
3:39 "I don't know if you can feel that"
.....No. I can't feel that MDF piece you have over there.
ATMOS you need to reach out, be the video, FEEL the MDF! I wasn't going to re shoot the whole video for one daft comment!
Wood That I Could On the contrary, you should make it your signature line. Whenever your talking about the feel or sound, casually ask them if they feel it or how it feels to them. That would be hillarious
!
Great tips!! I'm putting it to use today!!! Check out my channel for the application in a few days😁 have a great day SLAINTÉ