If you jack up from the lower ball joint it keeps the 24mm nut from spinning and it's still annoying but you don't have to worry about stripping the 11mm stud
To remove and install ball joint nut you can lift the car, take the wheel off, apply some pressure to ball joint from bottom (that will hold cone tight), use second jack or slightly drop car on peace of wood. That works great for me!
Earlier on, I used aftermarket parts. Then I found myself replacing the replacements after only a year or two when the OEM lasted nearly ten. Now, at least when it comes to vehicles without any obvious upgrade parts, like the Flex, I use OEM.
Found it easier to loosen cv axle nut and tap it in, loosen strut assembly bolt. Jack control arm up , loosen bolt 24mm and 11mm. Gives you room to use ratcheting wrench and wrench simultaneously. Easiest and fastest way.
Just did this in my garage. Use a small Cresent wrench after you get the ball joint nut loose. You can remove the nut much faster. I also greased the inside of the front bushing figured it couldn't hurt
Hello: When you post a comment on the description of what you are replacing, could you also post the reason why you are replacing it. What are the symptoms. Are we all chasing a vibration. If so, it could be a class action suit. thanks
Video was a huge help, thanks! This has to be one of worst to replace, everything fought me. Of course my ball joint nut froze and then stripped the 11mm stud and had to cut the stud. Now after all that the service advance trac is on. 🤷 Time to call it a day.
I’m trying to replace that control arm bushing the smaller one towards the front I have the tool as well but the problem I’m running into is the side that needs to get pushed out is the side that tool won’t fit on it thinking of either replacing the whole control arm cause the knock on the control arm is getting In the way of the tool
Agree my father like person thought we can just replace the front bushing but the kneck is interfering with the tool plus that coupling form the tool it’s so much better to replace the whole control arm
good vid. I use a much thicker stack of plywood beneath my jack stands. Or 50 lb barbell weights. I went with MOOG at 67k miles. What special adapter do you use to torgue down the ball joint nut?
@@EcoBelkin I think it's a crowsfoot with a 1 inch or more extension to move it away, to be able to fit a torque wrench in.I think. Some special Ford tool. I have an odd wrench like that for Harley Davidson cylinders. I'm not going to visit the Snap on man for a one off. Thank you.
this is the exact same on the taurus, i was trying to do mine today and that bolt up in the frame wouldnt move with a 3ton corded....impact wrench, so i used my hulk strength it came out about a inch and a half then got stuck now wont move at all...........irecon im gonnahave to creep itto a mechanicshop nowso they can cut it off.......................
I used Mevotech parts for my suspension TTF they are best. Ford OEM parts are junk they use plastic in there ball joints. What stared this all I was driving down the street when one of the rear end link ball joints broke and the wheel went cock-eyed and I am lucky there where no cars next to me I lost control of the back end. I was able to slow down and pull over but if I would have been on the freeway it would have been an accident. So I went through and replaced rear end links control arms front and rear all the bushings and ball joints. It fixed all my suspension noise and some play I had in the steering wheel. I would recommend anyone with oem ford parts and more then 100k miles to replace them ASAP. My vehicle is a 2011 Ford flex limited Fwd no turbo.
Hey man do u no if there is a difference in the awd and fwd lower control arms mine is a early 09 ford flex and can't find them for a fwd all I can find is ones for a awd
Best way and fastest is to remove 2 caliper bolts and strap caliper . Remove rotor and easy access to remove that pain in the ass ball joint. Also, remove the watch, a shame to scratch it. Lol.
140 foot pounds put some grease under the nut to help tighten , use locktite on the bolt and one small drop on inside the nut. after cleaning the fasteners threads on all parts, lightly grease bushing ends as well.
@Dave Thorndyke when the bushings are bad you literally have a clunky sound/feeling when braking. If you have a way to lift the vehicle, or put it on jacks safely, you can have someone put it on drive and as the wheels are spinning pay attention underneath at the bushings and shout to the person to hit the brakes. You’ll literally see the jolt/movement caused by the slack in the bushings. Another way to tell, is to accelerate to a slow speed then hit the brakes. You should also “feel” the slight movement and/or if at a worse stage even hear the clunk as well. I cannot stress safety is of the utmost importance and please make sure you know how to safely put the car on stands. I use a combination of truck jack stands, wood cribs and even 2x 3 ton jacks as backups whenever underneath. Might be excessive to some, but a life isn’t worth saving few hundred bucks. Good luck
@@gedionsamuel2256 I would not recommend doing this unless vehicle is on a lift. Don't do this if it is on a jack or jack stands. The sudden stop of the wheel could create a forward momentum that would cause the vehicle to tip over the jack stands. Instead it would be safer to have someone just push on the wheel at 3 and 9 to while watching the ball joint or put your camera phone down there and record the movement while pushing on the wheel yourself.
Clunking noise could also come from struts assembly due to binding. There are many components in the suspension system that could cause a "clunking noise". Most notable symptom of a bad ball joint would be "float" while driving. Easiest way to determine if it is a bad ball joint is by pushing on wheel at 3 and 9 with wheel off ground. You can either have someone else push on it while you watch the ball joint or you can use your phone to record it while you push on it.
Im dealing with this now. What an absolute shit design by Ford. The top of the stud has been previously stripped, the balljoint spins and I have no way to get the nut off. Even putting a jack under the control arm and jacking it up to attempt to get the balljoint stud to stop spinning doesn't work as the balljoint design uses a cone washer that will not stay in place. Only solution is to cut it all out and replace with a new control arm assembly with balljoint. Dumb.
Yes, that 10mm stud gets rounded- it will be a pain to get the nut off. When I first did the control arms- I used a dremel and cut the nut on various sides- thus cutting the nut off. I also heated the nut to melt the nylon locking ring as well.
@@EcoBelkin good points thanks and also thanks for the quick reply as im currently stuck. My issue is that im actually doing the cv axle and was not planning on doing the control arm or balljoint. But at this point there seems to be no choice, i either cut it all out and replace the entire control arm assembly or i may try only cutting the nut off.
If you jack up from the lower ball joint it keeps the 24mm nut from spinning and it's still annoying but you don't have to worry about stripping the 11mm stud
Changed both of my control arms and outer tie rod ends. Your video and torque specs were incredibly helpful. Many thanks.
You're welcome!
To remove and install ball joint nut you can lift the car, take the wheel off, apply some pressure to ball joint from bottom (that will hold cone tight), use second jack or slightly drop car on peace of wood.
That works great for me!
Not reading this at the first place cost me 3 hours! Thanks for the advice
Great video explaining the steps and good info on the sizes to use
Earlier on, I used aftermarket parts. Then I found myself replacing the replacements after only a year or two when the OEM lasted nearly ten. Now, at least when it comes to vehicles without any obvious upgrade parts, like the Flex, I use OEM.
I always use OEM execpt for maintenance items- oil, rotors and pads, filters
Found it easier to loosen cv axle nut and tap it in, loosen strut assembly bolt. Jack control arm up , loosen bolt 24mm and 11mm. Gives you room to use ratcheting wrench and wrench simultaneously. Easiest and fastest way.
instead of using the bar of persuasion, why not get a bottle jack and a block of wood to jack up the the hub assembly using the wheel studs?
Just did this in my garage. Use a small Cresent wrench after you get the ball joint nut loose. You can remove the nut much faster. I also greased the inside of the front bushing figured it couldn't hurt
Hello: When you post a comment on the description of what you are replacing, could you also post the reason why you are replacing it. What are the symptoms. Are we all chasing a vibration. If so, it could be a class action suit. thanks
Video was a huge help, thanks! This has to be one of worst to replace, everything fought me. Of course my ball joint nut froze and then stripped the 11mm stud and had to cut the stud. Now after all that the service advance trac is on. 🤷 Time to call it a day.
Same thing is happening to me. What did you use to cut the stud?
Could use a dermal and painstakingly cut the nut on a few sides to split the nut in half.
I’m trying to replace that control arm bushing the smaller one towards the front I have the tool as well but the problem I’m running into is the side that needs to get pushed out is the side that tool won’t fit on it thinking of either replacing the whole control arm cause the knock on the control arm is getting In the way of the tool
New arms come with that bushing pre-installed.- also come with new ball joiny as well.
I've not heard of any one replacing just the front bushing.
Agree my father like person thought we can just replace the front bushing but the kneck is interfering with the tool plus that coupling form the tool it’s so much better to replace the whole control arm
Very helpful. Enjoyed the seatbelt chime censor. Clever.
Very helpful. Thank you for making this video. I had to cut both balljoint nuts off.....
The first time I did the drivers side, I had to use a dremel and cut the nut off.
Great video, very helpful!
Thank you for the ilustration. Very helpfull.
good vid. I use a much thicker stack of plywood beneath my jack stands. Or 50 lb barbell weights. I went with MOOG at 67k miles. What special adapter do you use to torgue down the ball joint nut?
I did it by feel.
You could use a crows foot wrench adaptor with a torque wrench
@@EcoBelkin I think it's a crowsfoot with a 1 inch or more extension to move it away, to be able to fit a torque wrench in.I think. Some special Ford tool. I have an odd wrench like that for Harley Davidson cylinders. I'm not going to visit the Snap on man for a one off. Thank you.
this is the exact same on the taurus, i was trying to do mine today and that bolt up in the frame wouldnt move with a 3ton corded....impact wrench, so i used my hulk strength it came out about a inch and a half then got stuck now wont move at all...........irecon im gonnahave to creep itto a mechanicshop nowso they can cut it off.......................
Good work 👏
Thanks ✌️
Great commentary...
Good thing I bought a arm with the rear bearing installed...Aftermarket struts too...
Might I ask what brand you went with and/or where you bought the arms/struts? I’m weary of Detroit axle and stuff on eBay.
glad i watched it, looks like major PIA without lift
With decent height to get under and work- yes it will be a pita.
@@EcoBelkin there is video of mechanic doing this in like 6 mins lol but on a lift .. looks way easier :)
Today’s date is December 20 if I was to send you a picture of a part that I think someone took off my Ford flash could you tell me what it is please
My expertise is good- but I don't think I would be of much help identifying a part from a picture. Apologies
I used Mevotech parts for my suspension TTF they are best. Ford OEM parts are junk they use plastic in there ball joints. What stared this all I was driving down the street when one of the rear end link ball joints broke and the wheel went cock-eyed and I am lucky there where no cars next to me I lost control of the back end. I was able to slow down and pull over but if I would have been on the freeway it would have been an accident. So I went through and replaced rear end links control arms front and rear all the bushings and ball joints. It fixed all my suspension noise and some play I had in the steering wheel. I would recommend anyone with oem ford parts and more then 100k miles to replace them ASAP. My vehicle is a 2011 Ford flex limited Fwd no turbo.
Hey man do u no if there is a difference in the awd and fwd lower control arms mine is a early 09 ford flex and can't find them for a fwd all I can find is ones for a awd
Not that I am aware of.
Best way and fastest is to remove 2 caliper bolts and strap caliper . Remove rotor and easy access to remove that pain in the ass ball joint. Also, remove the watch, a shame to scratch it. Lol.
You will never get the new control arm in. It's impossible. That's why there are no videos to show the new part installed
How tight should the balljoint nut be? Mine seem to keep tightening.
140 foot pounds put some grease under the nut to help tighten , use locktite on the bolt and one small drop on inside the nut. after cleaning the fasteners threads on all parts, lightly grease bushing ends as well.
Do you have to get an Alignment after replacing the control arm?
It can be beneficial to one done.
Especially if the rear bushing where shot, as those can affect alignment.
Will I hope you can 😢
What was your car doing to let you know it was the a arm bushings that were bad? Did it make a clunking noise
The lower ball joint was bad. In replacing the control arm it made sense to replace the rear bushing as well.
@Dave Thorndyke when the bushings are bad you literally have a clunky sound/feeling when braking. If you have a way to lift the vehicle, or put it on jacks safely, you can have someone put it on drive and as the wheels are spinning pay attention underneath at the bushings and shout to the person to hit the brakes. You’ll literally see the jolt/movement caused by the slack in the bushings.
Another way to tell, is to accelerate to a slow speed then hit the brakes. You should also “feel” the slight movement and/or if at a worse stage even hear the clunk as well.
I cannot stress safety is of the utmost importance and please make sure you know how to safely put the car on stands. I use a combination of truck jack stands, wood cribs and even 2x 3 ton jacks as backups whenever underneath. Might be excessive to some, but a life isn’t worth saving few hundred bucks.
Good luck
@@gedionsamuel2256 I would not recommend doing this unless vehicle is on a lift. Don't do this if it is on a jack or jack stands. The sudden stop of the wheel could create a forward momentum that would cause the vehicle to tip over the jack stands. Instead it would be safer to have someone just push on the wheel at 3 and 9 to while watching the ball joint or put your camera phone down there and record the movement while pushing on the wheel yourself.
Clunking noise could also come from struts assembly due to binding. There are many components in the suspension system that could cause a "clunking noise". Most notable symptom of a bad ball joint would be "float" while driving. Easiest way to determine if it is a bad ball joint is by pushing on wheel at 3 and 9 with wheel off ground. You can either have someone else push on it while you watch the ball joint or you can use your phone to record it while you push on it.
When changing this control arm does the bracket need changed as well
The rear bushing...
Can be reused if you desire- I highly recommend getting a new rear busbing anytime you have to change the arm.
The only way to remove the 18mm bolt was using a propane torch. Without the torch, even 1000 lb ft impact wrench couldn’t do it.
I got it with a ratchet and pipe. No rust on mine. I'm sure that helped
What size is the ball joint nut?
24
That front bolt in the frame is stupid engineering design. Won’t come out with my big impact and no room for cheater bar. I’m stuck.
I use a swivel socket on my impact to get to it.
When ALL parts are made in Chynah, FORD parts are no longer my go to....
Im dealing with this now. What an absolute shit design by Ford. The top of the stud has been previously stripped, the balljoint spins and I have no way to get the nut off. Even putting a jack under the control arm and jacking it up to attempt to get the balljoint stud to stop spinning doesn't work as the balljoint design uses a cone washer that will not stay in place. Only solution is to cut it all out and replace with a new control arm assembly with balljoint. Dumb.
Yes, that 10mm stud gets rounded- it will be a pain to get the nut off.
When I first did the control arms- I used a dremel and cut the nut on various sides- thus cutting the nut off. I also heated the nut to melt the nylon locking ring as well.
@@EcoBelkin good points thanks and also thanks for the quick reply as im currently stuck. My issue is that im actually doing the cv axle and was not planning on doing the control arm or balljoint. But at this point there seems to be no choice, i either cut it all out and replace the entire control arm assembly or i may try only cutting the nut off.