This is my first attempt at testing this particular films speed best suited for my development process and I'm literally scratching the surface. If you're experienced at this I'd appreciate any advice in the comments section for myself and others to read. Thanks guys!
“I’m trying to find zone 1...... I know nothing about the zone system but I know what black looks like and I know what almost black looks like.” Legend! I think you found your inner Lomography simply with that statement.
Yes, it should be Fomapan 400. I've tried it in 120 format only and with Rodinal, its speed wasn't more than 250. It gave beautiful tonality, though pretty grainy. But if I can recommend you - try the Fomapan 100. I use it for 35mm, expose it at E.I. 80 (to give shadows little bit more light) and develop it in Rodinal (1+50, 9:45, 20C) and it gives really beautiful tonality, pretty fine grain (for 8x10 enlargements) and it's really sharp. I've never met QC issues, but maybe I was lucky so far :)
this process is a lot simpler with a camera that can change shutter speeds in 1/3 stops. My Canon eos 30 has had stops for both shutter and aperture so I think can only find SO in half stop increments then estimate up or down!
Fomapan 400 I believe. My experiences with the Foma 400 are to meter at 250 and bash away. I rarely got bad exposures but the emulsion can be a be sensitive to abrasions. I really like the Foma and shoot a ton of it, but occasionally they do have QC issues like a recent batch of the 200 which was really 100. A case of incorrect packaging. As per the soft emulsion, I recommend using a photoflo or similar and to NOT use any squeegie, or even wet fingers, to clear the negatives of excess water. Just use photoflo, or as I do, Adox Adoflo and let the neg drip dry. No water marks or scratches. BTW, GREAT to see a photography channel not made by a hipster with a TLR.
Thanks Rev! Yes I did notice how soft the emulsion is as I had a hairline scratch on one of the negs pretty much as soon as it dried! Thanks for your comment.
@Film Wasteland Same here FW. My Yashi 635 does me proud on many occasions, but it's my bet we are both far more handsome / beautiful than any fungus faced hipster with their TLR.
Good technique! Love how you determine the actual film speed I think I am gonna start to use this method before I get some serious shots for new films.
Ohhh that was really really interesting and educational. I really want you if possible to do this also with Adox CMS 20 I can’t find nothing on line .. cheers
The negs look over developed just a touch, how about keeping 250 speed and cut back dev time to (at a guess) nine minutes. That should leave the shadow details in camera where they are and retain highlight detail in the cap and chrome. Always enjoy seeing your videos. Cheers
The US supplier of this film, swears it is an older Ilford iteration 400 ISO film. Basically sold as a cheap student film over here. Fomapan has a definitive look to it, and I just don’t see it here.
When shooting in Nikon or Contax, I usually rate the film at 1/2 speed, to open the shadows and give more detail. Photographers have been doing it for decades, know I have. Only when shooting in my Rolleis, I don’t take into consideration the film speed at all. I focus, and set the aperture/shutter for what I want the camera to do, an it usually does. At least 90% of the time.
So your nikon and contax has a built in light meter and you dial in half the speed. And over expose the film by a stop? And your rollei has no internal meter?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Correct, and my Mamiya has the metered prism, and I usually overexpose for a stop with it as well. None of my Rolleis have internal meters, no such thing back then, However. my '51 & ’53 Rollei TLRs have selenium meters, but are non functioning. But I probably wouldnt use one anyway, My N90s and F5 each have marvelous meters, so I’ll use them, Contax G1 has a very good meter, but I do usually rate all film speeds at half. It also helps control the grain,
Hi just watched this very interesting.. I'm reading that you should generally rate all films at 1/2 box speed and reduce development by 15%. It would look like that if you had reduced your development time you would have got a near perfect negative, would you agree?
Your negative Steve page noise almost made me quit watching .... but since I sold all my 40 rolls of lady grey, I’ve kept watching to see what I’ve been missing ..... lomography = marketing ploy for a brand of film ...for those who do not know about the history of photography or “gestural” photography.... None the less , thanks for all you do
I am sure that dog featured at the start had been drinking rodinal, anyway I often shoot HP5 at 250 the speed seems to suit most 400 speed films, you experiment was a very interesting watch and must have involved a lot of work ......Great channel.
Thanks Mark. It's pretty much the first time I tried this and saw a result. Not much info online about it. Hopefully this video will help a bit of anyone looking finds it. And with the comments I too can find a more concrete way to test.
Nice Job! Very interesting seeing the results and this may be why I was having trouble with this film unless I got the settings wrong on the camera. I recently tested the camera with different film and those images came out OK. Hopefully by Spring I will have my own darkroom all because of your interesting vlogs so THANK YOU! Keep it up and enjoy Lady Grey Roll 2!
That was pretty cool. I’ve had some great results using lomography film. I took some pictures of driftwood on Aptos Beach during the summer with the lady gray and they came out really detailed and contrast-y. I’ve also run a roll of their color 100 film through a camera and I loved how vibrant the colors came out.
Verrrrrry innnnterrrressstiiiing Mrrr Bonnnnnd!!!........ Cool experiment. So, do I understand that this experiment is for One camera One developer and One type of paper? If you choose to use a different camera or developer or paper....Then you do the experiment again? By the way...... That was a MAD dog!!!
Yes. I'm trying to find the best speed rating for that film for my development process. I still need to fine tune it but it's a step in the right direction. Once I am happy then when I use Foma 400 I'll use the same developer, temp and time. I will read even different tap water can change the results! I used a electronic shutter (Nikon F90x) so I don't think another camera similar would make a different as this shutters are spot on. But a mechanical camera such as the Pentax Spotmatic may not be as accurate so if I used the Spotmatic I'd stick with that camera.
Shoot Film Like a Boss so.... you would do the experiment again to learn what it takes for that camera to shoot what you want with that film using all the same parameters?
The late Barry Thornton advises halving the box speed and developing in Perceptol 1+2. Incidentally Lady Grey used to be re-spooled Kodak T-Max 400, noticeably because of the pink dye on the anti-halation layer.
Hello Roger, as always great video content. One of the best channels for learning darkroom. I've never used Foma, I'm more hp5, but in one of Nicolas's videos, that is also an excellent channel, he said that he uses Foma at 250asa or 320asa, but then he develop as 400asa. Keep the good work, darkroom teacher. 👍🙏
Thanks Pedro. The massive Dev chart shows for Foma 400 at 400 is 9.5 mins. I devved it for 10 and rated at 250 so pretty similar to what Nicholas says. What's his channel?
This is basically how I do it as well. After you have figured out the speed, you can then check if your developing time is correct. You can use the zone 8 exposure and see how it compares to pure white (unexposed paper). If it goes blank, you should shorten the developing time and vice versa.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Exposure, or the way you rate the film affects your shadows. But developing time affects mostly your highlights. If you rate the film lower, as you did, giving it more exposure, you might then blow out the highlights if you use the same developing time.
@@tapiopitkaranta7667 Yes, I think I developed a tad too long here at 19 minutes as Stephen suggested in my comments. Which blew the cap out. It's great to get so many comments with hands of advice. Thanks Tapio!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yes, it would be interesting. My theory is that Ilford pan400 is based on hp4 emulsion or hp5 that didn't pass quality control, but I've never been determined enough to do the test.
I keep things simple by adjusting all my cameras to always give ⅔ stop more exposure than the DX-coded box speed (I only shoot negative film). I'm always finding satisfactory results. I predicted you'd settle on EI 250 for this 400 ISO film. My take on this is that box speed is apparently a laboratory measurement that is not reflecting real-world conditions. If densitometric measurements were to prove my practice inaccurate, I figure I cannot be off by very much. After all, I only have ⅓ stop increments to work with. Exposure latitude then works in my favor. Mine is not necessarily the *best* practice, but frankly I'm disinclined to go through the work some will, and I'm pleased by my results. One more thing, for my cameras with built-in flash, I use them for fill-flash but adjust for one stop under. I get lovely snapshots of the grandkids that way.
Really cool test! I have never done such a test, but from my understanding the shadows develop first and then the highlights. Given that the blacks look best when metered at 250, I wonder if the highlights can be better controlled by reducing the development time in the XTOL and maybe save you the need for burning in the highlights during printing?
Hey roger! Good video as always. I also run a similar test but I “waste” more films because I also test developing time and I find the N,N+ and N- but basically the same speed sensitivity procure for the sensitivity test is the same. Great thanks
Actually there are several ways to do that: I did a course on sensitometry and I learned the theoretical part beyond everything, then I've read Ansel Adams' books. He describes his procedure to test. It is also well explained in the books: "Way beyond monochrome" and "The practical zone system". I mixed everything and developed a testing procedure that works nice for me (even if I have to waste 3-4 rolls) and it allows me to check how the film behaves close to the shoulder and to the foot of the Curve. No need of densitometer. It is a calibration of my photography chain from the light meter to the print. @@ShootFilmLikeaBoss
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss The sensitivity test is basically the same. But as I have to "waste" a full roll, I shoot from -4 to 0 at different sensitivity and I print them so I can see the separation in the shadows. Some films (like pancro400) have a looooong foot so if you want a good shadow separation you need to set a sensitivity higher than the real one.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss For the development It's more tricky ahahah indeed I shoot from a sequence from -5 to +5 at the sensitivity that I find more suitable for my uses (3 sequence for 2 rolls) and I develop each strip separately and I print the results. In this case I can test 6 different developing times...you can use 3 rolls and test 9 developing times...etc. In this way I can see how development time affect my film and I can estimate the N-1 and N+1 in order to use them in scenes of lower contrast and higher contrast.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I know it's a very long procedure, it takes one day of testing but...after that I know everything about the film. Same procedure if you want to test the pushing times. Of course all changes a little if you change the paper, but in that case you take your test negatives, print a new serie and done.
Nice to know its just Fomapan 400 in a different box. The Foma films are very attractively priced! No need to buy from Lomography if they're just adding a markup (close to double).
lomography really create some interesting film stock, still have to get around to shooting alot of them! what an insightful video! i just love film photography! really enjoyed watching this! thanks for sharing this amazing content with us
I shot a roll of LOMO Purple 100-400 at 400 last week and was very disappointed with it $15 a roll. I get the same results with my D700 and screw around with the photos on my MAC.
As an affordable film, Foma isn't all that bad. Their best film I have found is their 200 which, apparently, a T-Grain / cubic hybrid. It is worth a try.
@@totalrecone That's interesting because other commentators suggest Foma 200 gives the least attractive results in the range. I've used Foma 100 extensively (and Foma 400 so long ago I can't remember anything about it), and found the 100 ISO pushes better than any slow-medium film I've used. The box says it will push 2 stops, which I thought was a bit ambitious, but it's very usable at 400 ISO. I even pushed in 3 stops to 800 ISO, and the results were useable even though grain and contrast were noticeably higher. All in Rodinal.
@@borderlands6606 I do a lot of industrial archaeology type shooting and I find the 200 a really suitable film for that style, particularly with a deep red filter over the lens. I have limited portrait photographic experience so I can't comment on how the 200 looks in that scenario but I have heard the 100 is very well suited to this. I always have a stash of all Foma speeds except the 320 which is a strange beast, and from what I have read, does not play nicely in my dev of choice Rodinal. I will definitely give pushing the 100 a try after reading of your experiences and see what happens. Might even try 1600 just for fun. Push the Boundaries!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss For Foma 100 Rodinal is excellent. It's an acutance developer which emphasis edge sharpness, which means grain is quite pronounced. Some people use Rodinal with 400 ISO films, but you have to love grain and I find it too much. Rodinal is basically a slow/medium speed developer used in high dilutions from 1:25 to 1:200.
![[Film Photography] ARE FILMS TRUE TO SPEED? What you need to know about box speeds](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/iOL2eqpKCMI/mqdefault.jpg)
This is my first attempt at testing this particular films speed best suited for my development process and I'm literally scratching the surface. If you're experienced at this I'd appreciate any advice in the comments section for myself and others to read. Thanks guys!
“I’m trying to find zone 1...... I know nothing about the zone system but I know what black looks like and I know what almost black looks like.” Legend! I think you found your inner Lomography simply with that statement.
Ha Ha. Sometimes keeping it simple is best way to learn and move on 😂
Yes, it should be Fomapan 400. I've tried it in 120 format only and with Rodinal, its speed wasn't more than 250. It gave beautiful tonality, though pretty grainy. But if I can recommend you - try the Fomapan 100. I use it for 35mm, expose it at E.I. 80 (to give shadows little bit more light) and develop it in Rodinal (1+50, 9:45, 20C) and it gives really beautiful tonality, pretty fine grain (for 8x10 enlargements) and it's really sharp. I've never met QC issues, but maybe I was lucky so far :)
I'd say Rodinol is a hard developer for that film which will give more grain. I like Rodinol! Thanks for the tips!
this process is a lot simpler with a camera that can change shutter speeds in 1/3 stops. My Canon eos 30 has had stops for both shutter and aperture so I think can only find SO in half stop increments then estimate up or down!
Fomapan 400 I believe. My experiences with the Foma 400 are to meter at 250 and bash away. I rarely got bad exposures but the emulsion can be a be sensitive to abrasions. I really like the Foma and shoot a ton of it, but occasionally they do have QC issues like a recent batch of the 200 which was really 100. A case of incorrect packaging.
As per the soft emulsion, I recommend using a photoflo or similar and to NOT use any squeegie, or even wet fingers, to clear the negatives of excess water. Just use photoflo, or as I do, Adox Adoflo and let the neg drip dry. No water marks or scratches.
BTW, GREAT to see a photography channel not made by a hipster with a TLR.
Ooh really i will set my metering to 250 for the rest of my roll and see what can i get
Thanks Rev! Yes I did notice how soft the emulsion is as I had a hairline scratch on one of the negs pretty much as soon as it dried! Thanks for your comment.
@Film Wasteland Same here FW. My Yashi 635 does me proud on many occasions, but it's my bet we are both far more handsome / beautiful than any fungus faced hipster with their TLR.
Good technique!
Love how you determine the actual film speed
I think I am gonna start to use this method before I get some serious shots for new films.
Thanks Li, do read the info on found from Tom Halfill, link in the description. It's far more detailed.
Ohhh that was really really interesting and educational. I really want you if possible to do this also with Adox CMS 20 I can’t find nothing on line .. cheers
The negs look over developed just a touch, how about keeping 250 speed and cut back dev time to (at a guess) nine minutes. That should leave the shadow details in camera where they are and retain highlight detail in the cap and chrome. Always enjoy seeing your videos. Cheers
Good point Stephen. I did go 30 seconds over the suggested time. Thanks for that!
The US supplier of this film, swears it is an older Ilford iteration 400 ISO film. Basically sold as a cheap student film over here. Fomapan has a definitive look to it, and I just don’t see it here.
Wow! That’s really interesting (as are all your videos). I love the logical approach.
Thanks Andrew!
When shooting in Nikon or Contax, I usually rate the film at 1/2 speed, to open the shadows and give more detail. Photographers have been doing it for decades, know I have. Only when shooting in my Rolleis, I don’t take into consideration the film speed at all. I focus, and set the aperture/shutter for what I want the camera to do, an it usually does. At least 90% of the time.
So your nikon and contax has a built in light meter and you dial in half the speed. And over expose the film by a stop? And your rollei has no internal meter?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Correct, and my Mamiya has the metered prism, and I usually overexpose for a stop with it as well. None of my Rolleis have internal meters, no such thing back then, However. my '51 & ’53 Rollei TLRs have selenium meters, but are non functioning. But I probably wouldnt use one anyway, My N90s and F5 each have marvelous meters, so I’ll use them, Contax G1 has a very good meter, but I do usually rate all film speeds at half. It also helps control the grain,
you should also do the second part of the test where he extends the development times until he gets just off-white for the +3 exposure
Thanks Eric. I will yet to play more with these tests. It's a good start for me though.
Hi just watched this very interesting.. I'm reading that you should generally rate all films at 1/2 box speed and reduce development by 15%. It would look like that if you had reduced your development time you would have got a near perfect negative, would you agree?
Your negative Steve page noise almost made me quit watching .... but since I sold all my 40 rolls of lady grey, I’ve kept watching to see what I’ve been missing .....
lomography = marketing ploy for a brand of film ...for those who do not know about the history of photography or “gestural” photography....
None the less , thanks for all you do
Negative Steve page noise? What's that?
Shoot Film Like a Boss He’s talking about the crunchy noise your negative sleeve made when you moved/touched it
I am sure that dog featured at the start had been drinking rodinal, anyway I often shoot HP5 at 250 the speed seems to suit most 400 speed films, you experiment was a very interesting watch and must have involved a lot of work ......Great channel.
Thanks Harry. Dog was off its rocker!
Yet another fascinating video and it shows you should believe everything you read, including box speed for film.
Thanks Mark. It's pretty much the first time I tried this and saw a result. Not much info online about it. Hopefully this video will help a bit of anyone looking finds it. And with the comments I too can find a more concrete way to test.
Nice Job! Very interesting seeing the results and this may be why I was having trouble with this film unless I got the settings wrong on the camera. I recently tested the camera with different film and those images came out OK. Hopefully by Spring I will have my own darkroom all because of your interesting vlogs so THANK YOU! Keep it up and enjoy Lady Grey Roll 2!
Thanks Andy! Love k forward to seeing your DR on Instagram!
That was pretty cool. I’ve had some great results using lomography film. I took some pictures of driftwood on Aptos Beach during the summer with the lady gray and they came out really detailed and contrast-y. I’ve also run a roll of their color 100 film through a camera and I loved how vibrant the colors came out.
Are they online to see Lori?
Verrrrrry innnnterrrressstiiiing Mrrr Bonnnnnd!!!........ Cool experiment. So, do I understand that this experiment is for One camera One developer and One type of paper? If you choose to use a different camera or developer or paper....Then you do the experiment again?
By the way...... That was a MAD dog!!!
Yes. I'm trying to find the best speed rating for that film for my development process. I still need to fine tune it but it's a step in the right direction. Once I am happy then when I use Foma 400 I'll use the same developer, temp and time. I will read even different tap water can change the results! I used a electronic shutter (Nikon F90x) so I don't think another camera similar would make a different as this shutters are spot on. But a mechanical camera such as the Pentax Spotmatic may not be as accurate so if I used the Spotmatic I'd stick with that camera.
Shoot Film Like a Boss so.... you would do the experiment again to learn what it takes for that camera to shoot what you want with that film using all the same parameters?
Shoot Film Like a Boss EI?
@@IainHC1 Exposure Index (400, 250, etc)
The late Barry Thornton advises halving the box speed and developing in Perceptol 1+2. Incidentally Lady Grey used to be re-spooled Kodak T-Max 400, noticeably because of the pink dye on the anti-halation layer.
I did read that it used to be Kodak Tmax400. Interesting about the Perception! Noted. Thanks!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Perceptol.
@@mamiyapress Ha, predictive text!!
This is such a useful video, I will try this with film. Thanks
Thanks Socrates. Check out the link also, you may work it out better or different than I did.
Ok crap, you F90x‘ eye piece is missing! Lost mine somewhere and in Italy, took me ages to find another. I know your struggle ☺️
I did find one on eBay. The screw ring. But I can do without it 😀
Shoot Film Like a Boss rly? It bothered me a lot! 😅
Found it interesting although puddled my simple brain at first, but then I got it.
I havn't used it much since then Malc.
Hello Roger, as always great video content. One of the best channels for learning darkroom. I've never used Foma, I'm more hp5, but in one of Nicolas's videos, that is also an excellent channel, he said that he uses Foma at 250asa or 320asa, but then he develop as 400asa. Keep the good work, darkroom teacher. 👍🙏
Thanks Pedro. The massive Dev chart shows for Foma 400 at 400 is 9.5 mins. I devved it for 10 and rated at 250 so pretty similar to what Nicholas says. What's his channel?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Nicolas Llasera is the name of Nicos photography show. The channel you talk in the start.
@@filmlovephotography Ha Ha, of course, Nicos. 😀
This is basically how I do it as well. After you have figured out the speed, you can then check if your developing time is correct. You can use the zone 8 exposure and see how it compares to pure white (unexposed paper). If it goes blank, you should shorten the developing time and vice versa.
Thanks Tapio. I didn't get to check the whites. Would you say you should test both ends of the scale?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Exposure, or the way you rate the film affects your shadows. But developing time affects mostly your highlights. If you rate the film lower, as you did, giving it more exposure, you might then blow out the highlights if you use the same developing time.
@@tapiopitkaranta7667 Yes, I think I developed a tad too long here at 19 minutes as Stephen suggested in my comments. Which blew the cap out. It's great to get so many comments with hands of advice. Thanks Tapio!
Thank you so much for sharing that it is really good way to test many different type of films using same method .
Thanks Ahmed! Great stuff on Instagram btw 😁
thank you
Good job! Can't wait to see comparison between HP5 and pan400.
You think I should do a comparison between those two films as my next video? I have both here.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yes, it would be interesting. My theory is that Ilford pan400 is based on hp4 emulsion or hp5 that didn't pass quality control, but I've never been determined enough to do the test.
Another cracking video. Cheers!
Cheers Jon!
I keep things simple by adjusting all my cameras to always give ⅔ stop more exposure than the DX-coded box speed (I only shoot negative film). I'm always finding satisfactory results. I predicted you'd settle on EI 250 for this 400 ISO film. My take on this is that box speed is apparently a laboratory measurement that is not reflecting real-world conditions. If densitometric measurements were to prove my practice inaccurate, I figure I cannot be off by very much. After all, I only have ⅓ stop increments to work with. Exposure latitude then works in my favor. Mine is not necessarily the *best* practice, but frankly I'm disinclined to go through the work some will, and I'm pleased by my results. One more thing, for my cameras with built-in flash, I use them for fill-flash but adjust for one stop under. I get lovely snapshots of the grandkids that way.
This was very interesting - but if you rate the film differently to the box speed, what happens to the contrast and grain?
Brilliant vid, just got some lady grey and shot a roll at box, going to try next roll at 250 . Getting into film again and lovin the channel. thx
Really cool test! I have never done such a test, but from my understanding the shadows develop first and then the highlights. Given that the blacks look best when metered at 250, I wonder if the highlights can be better controlled by reducing the development time in the XTOL and maybe save you the need for burning in the highlights during printing?
Very interesting. Learned something new today! Thanks.
You know what they say: ‘Those who can, do; those who can’t, teach.’ very educational indeed ;)
Love your down to earth style explaining things; just great !
Hey roger! Good video as always. I also run a similar test but I “waste” more films because I also test developing time and I find the N,N+ and N- but basically the same speed sensitivity procure for the sensitivity test is the same. Great thanks
Cheers Gianni. How did you learn to make these tests?
Actually there are several ways to do that: I did a course on sensitometry and I learned the theoretical part beyond everything, then I've read Ansel Adams' books. He describes his procedure to test. It is also well explained in the books: "Way beyond monochrome" and "The practical zone system". I mixed everything and developed a testing procedure that works nice for me (even if I have to waste 3-4 rolls) and it allows me to check how the film behaves close to the shoulder and to the foot of the Curve. No need of densitometer. It is a calibration of my photography chain from the light meter to the print. @@ShootFilmLikeaBoss
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss The sensitivity test is basically the same. But as I have to "waste" a full roll, I shoot from -4 to 0 at different sensitivity and I print them so I can see the separation in the shadows. Some films (like pancro400) have a looooong foot so if you want a good shadow separation you need to set a sensitivity higher than the real one.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss For the development It's more tricky ahahah indeed I shoot from a sequence from -5 to +5 at the sensitivity that I find more suitable for my uses (3 sequence for 2 rolls) and I develop each strip separately and I print the results. In this case I can test 6 different developing times...you can use 3 rolls and test 9 developing times...etc. In this way I can see how development time affect my film and I can estimate the N-1 and N+1 in order to use them in scenes of lower contrast and higher contrast.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I know it's a very long procedure, it takes one day of testing but...after that I know everything about the film. Same procedure if you want to test the pushing times.
Of course all changes a little if you change the paper, but in that case you take your test negatives, print a new serie and done.
First comment! Been wondering about lady grey. Excited to see you shoot it.
Interesting watch rodger Ive never tried that type of film before good experiment tho I must say 400 asa is the best film to do that Ive heard
My usual film at 400 is Tri-x or HP5. Cheers Beau!
Great Video, informative !
Brilliant, just bought 5 rolls foma 400 so this was an unexpected bonus! Thanks for putting the effort in 😀
Cheers David.
Nice to know its just Fomapan 400 in a different box. The Foma films are very attractively priced! No need to buy from Lomography if they're just adding a markup (close to double).
I think it's attractively boxed for the Lomography movement which is good if it gets people into shooting film.
lomography really create some interesting film stock, still have to get around to shooting alot of them!
what an insightful video! i just love film photography!
really enjoyed watching this!
thanks for sharing this amazing content with us
Thanks Acid!
I shot a roll of LOMO Purple 100-400 at 400 last week and was very disappointed with it $15 a roll. I get the same results with my D700 and screw around with the photos on my MAC.
Not my favourite film (foma400). Same can I say about RPX400 :/
As an affordable film, Foma isn't all that bad. Their best film I have found is their 200 which, apparently, a T-Grain / cubic hybrid. It is worth a try.
@@totalrecone That's interesting because other commentators suggest Foma 200 gives the least attractive results in the range. I've used Foma 100 extensively (and Foma 400 so long ago I can't remember anything about it), and found the 100 ISO pushes better than any slow-medium film I've used. The box says it will push 2 stops, which I thought was a bit ambitious, but it's very usable at 400 ISO. I even pushed in 3 stops to 800 ISO, and the results were useable even though grain and contrast were noticeably higher. All in Rodinal.
@@borderlands6606 Wouldn't Rodinol be a bit harsh for Foma Film? I've never tried Foma with Rodinol
@@borderlands6606 I do a lot of industrial archaeology type shooting and I find the 200 a really suitable film for that style, particularly with a deep red filter over the lens. I have limited portrait photographic experience so I can't comment on how the 200 looks in that scenario but I have heard the 100 is very well suited to this. I always have a stash of all Foma speeds except the 320 which is a strange beast, and from what I have read, does not play nicely in my dev of choice Rodinal.
I will definitely give pushing the 100 a try after reading of your experiences and see what happens. Might even try 1600 just for fun. Push the Boundaries!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss For Foma 100 Rodinal is excellent. It's an acutance developer which emphasis edge sharpness, which means grain is quite pronounced. Some people use Rodinal with 400 ISO films, but you have to love grain and I find it too much. Rodinal is basically a slow/medium speed developer used in high dilutions from 1:25 to 1:200.