Great review and tutorial! I’ve started using the “Wein Cell” brand batteries which are 1.3v. The light meter is now spot on (no pun). This is definitely one of my favorite cameras to use. With the waist level viewfinder it makes a wonderful Street Photography Camera.
Mid century Chrysler 300 grille comes to mind every time I see one. I learned photography starting age 15 in 1978 after digging out my late father’s black Sensorex. Travelling in high school I started thinking why my dad bought such an oddball brand,since 49mm threaded filters were scarce in stores compared to 52’s. It got me through till I Discovered his kallofkex tlr. Another good camera but also an oddball.
Great manual once again, David. I was gifted a Sensorex with a missing rewind crank (it was snapped off by a nasty bump, by the looks of it) yesterday and although I will probably not be able to use my copy I knew that I could count on you to deliver a comprehensive video manual that would ignite my interest and seek out a working copy. Of note, I would like to add that your comments on internet detractors (from your first video) is spot on! The first time I heard of the Miranda it was in reference to how easily they break and how poorly they manage the passing of time from a mechanical level. And others brushed it off solely because they were ethically opposed to Miranda's marketing campaigns back in the day. If it wasn't for the snapped off rewind crank on my copy, I would have loaded film in it by now but everything else on my copy is working perfectly fine. I agree with you though - the internet (including TH-camrs) is full of opinions not earned through experience and know-how. It's good to keep an open mind about opinions that seem to be nothing more than echos in an empty canyon. Your videos are always informative and I appreciate your hard work in delivering them to us. I will definitely seek out a working copy of the Sensorex and this video series has everything to do with that interest. Keep sharing!
got an early f1.9 Miranda Sensorex, and your video was of course invaluable, as to it.s operation with fixed lenses. I am thrilled to have one of these beauties....they have real character! Last week, I got a battery for an Olympus RA, and Wein Zinc Air Batteries come with a size adapter attached to them if you need.
David, looking through my old Sensorex negatives from the 70's one of the features of the 50mm f1.8 is the ability to focus at a distance of only 17 inches. I did violate the sharpness of the lens by using a sky 1b filter in the day, I was a sloppy photographer, and "pixel peeping" didn't exist then, so I couldn't really tell the difference till now.
The old skylight filters didn't make nearly as noticeable a difference back when older film stocks were used. But today, on digital and modern very-sharp films, the filters make a difference.
I have a question about your method of compensating for a 1.5v battery. I don't have one of these cameras but I have others that originally used mercury cell batteries. In your explanation the added voltage underexposes by two stops, right? (I realize this may very but lets say I get the same result with my camera). The camera for for this discussion is the Ricoh 500G rangefinder which has a maximum ASA setting of 800. If using your method of verifying exposure results in an ASA setting of 100, then setting the ASA at 400 would essentially result in a 2-stop push with a 3-stop push being possible at a setting of ASA 800, right? I've wanted to push some tri-x in this camera but haven't bothered because of the limited ASA capabilities of the camera. What are your thoughts?
+DCN2010 So basically the compensation trick is a way of tricking the camera into giving you a proper meter reading. What you're doing is saying 'okay, this camera thinks I have 400 when I have 100, so I'm going to adjust to setting to make it give me the proper reading.' And yes, that absolutely reduces the films that you can use. That said, older cameras were designed for slower films, emulsion speeds that aren't widely available any more. So if you stick with 50 through 400 ISO, then you ought to be able to use it on any old camera with a 1.3v battery. Also, most of the older cameras don't have fast enough shutter speeds to let you use ultra-fast films any way.
Video so very informative and helpful! Thanks so much! I recently inherited a SensorX and was wondering why my film advancer does not crank all the way he stops about halfway, and doesn’t advanced the film? Why is that? Also, does the camera need a battery to shoot? What is the battery charge? Thanks again!
Thank you! For the battery, it only powers the light meter and the camera will mechanically function without it. For the film advance, the advance lever will only work after firing the shutter. It will also stop advancing when you reach the end of the roll of film. Just to check, have you triggered the shutter and do you still have film left to use on your roll?
Extremely helpful! I just got one of these but unfortunately it didn't come with a battery so I'm trying to find one. If I get the A76 button cell battery, should it be 1.5v or 1.3v? and will I also need the adapter if I get those instead of the modern px625? Thanks!!!! forgot to ask if u got any recommendations/links for which ones to get and what kind of adapter I should look for...A76 battery adapter?
Thank you! For the A76,they're all 1.5V. You can get them at any pharmacy. For the adapter, there are non-voltage-adapting models on eBay for around $10 and the MR9 voltage-adapting model is around $35.
hi, i have a question! i just recieved this camera and im new to film alltogether. and on the first day i got it, the film advance lever was able to go all the way back like it was suppose to and the shutter button worked, but now the lever will only go halfway and the button wont work. i havent even used the camera yet. any ideas on what could be the problem? thanks in advance!
Knee-jerk thought is that it already had film in it. You can check this by rewinding the film. If the knob spins freely there's no film. If it doesn't, then there is film. In that event, rewind the film (with the rewind button depressed) and then develop it if you want. Then your camera should work fine. If that's not the case let me know.
Hey! Hope you still answer questions! Really enjoyed your video's. I have a small question. How is the battery converter/adapter called. I wanna buy it somewhere but have no idea how to search it. Found a sensorx ee 50 AUD in a store in the middle of nowhere. But can't find a battery to fit...
I do still respond to questions. Here is an affiliate search link for the MR9 adapter: bit.ly/YTDH_MR9 Make sure you get the MR9 adapter that corrects for voltage (around USD $27).
@@DavidHancock Hi David! I was wondering what battery you would best recommend to use with this adaptor? I have a modern day PX625A and was hoping to use that with the Miranda Sensorex.
Hi David! I recently picked up a Sensorex and my light meter only works when the camera's on/off switch is turned half way between on and off. If I turn the lever all the way to on, the light meter shuts back off. Any idea how I might be able to fix this? Otherwise the camera is in great condition, just need to replace the light seals. Thanks :)
Tape. 😃 So that sounds like the switch is at fault and without taking the camera apart there's likely no fix. As for your light seals, have you seen my video on using cotton yarn for those?
David, love the detail you have in the videos. Bought my first Sensorex used in 1971, bought another later on and starting to shoot with them more now. What is your opinion on the 50mm F1.8 vs the older 5cm F1.9 ( I shot mostly with that one) ?
Thank you! The 50mm f/1.8 is a stunning lens, at least in the 46mm thread. I haven't used the 1.9, so I can't say how it stacks up. My guess is that it's comparable. I have read that they're the same lens inside, but I can't verify that independently.
Thanks for the video. I just picked one up. Very mint. It has a 35mm f2.8 lens so I'll have to try and find a f1.4 as the camera starts at f1.4. Do you have a link or site as to where I can get the battery and adapter you reference in the video? Thanks again.
Nice! Any simple brass LR44 adapter off eBay will work. if you buy a 675 hearing aid battery that has voltage close enough that you can use it directly with no tricks or modifications to your settings.
hey David. I may have missed this earlier but is the battery necessary to use the camera? i read somewhere it was just for light meter (not to sure what that means). i've been taking pictures with the camera but if they aren't actually taking to the film without the battery could i just rewind the film back in and reuse it? thanks! awesome video.
Talking Box Co. The Sensorex will take photos without a battery. The shutter mechanism -- the bits that block light from reaching the film until you take the image -- are clockwork and operate on springs and levers. So whether you have a battery or not, the camera is capable of taking photos. The battery is used to power the light meter, which means the needle on the right side of the image in the viewfinder. That needle tells you if you're taking a photo that will be properly exposed. Check the video's description for an index with a link to the part of the video that shows how to use that feature. But yes, if your camera works properly, then the images are being made on the film even without a battery. How have you been metering your images for proper exposure if you aren't using the camera's on-board meter?
Hi, I'm new to the film camera and recently I got the exact same Miranda Sensorex.. I have a question.. so when I take a picture with f/16, do I have to hold the stop down button and shoot the photo? If I don't hold it, then the aperture opens fully and it acts like f/1.8.. I'm confused
It's been a LONG time since I sold this camera so I'm going from memory, but I think that this has open-aperture metering. That means that the aperture is wide open until you take the photo. To test that, with no film in the camera (unless you've already loaded the film and are okay with ruining one frame) set the shutter to bulb and the aperture to f/16. Push and hold the shutter button and the aperture should then close down. If it does not, let me know with an at in your reply and I can help you diagnose the lens from there.
@@DavidHancock ok. that sounds complicated... do you think it is okay if I just hold the preview button to close down the aperture manually and shoot it?
You can do that. The process would be to take a meter reading with the lens aperture set but the DoF preview not depressed. Then dial in your settings. Then before taking the photo, hold the DoF preview down and take the photo when the aperture closes fully.
Miranda serial 747532 the shutter speed dial does not work , is set at B, when turned does not change speed and not click as before, don,t know what happend !!! can you give some advise, many thanks.
Thanks for the video. I was using the same camera yesterday and at some point I cocked the shutter but the shutter release button stopped working. I couldn't press it. I removed the film and I tried again, but nothing happened. Did you ever face such issue? please advice.
Hello! I'm looking on eBay to buy a copper battery adapter, but since they are around 20$, I'd like to make sure I order the correct one. One of them looks like the one you are using and the other seems to be deeper? The auction I'm about to order from is titled "2 X COPPER-MADE MR-9, PX625, PX13 Battery Adapter, for Canonet QL17 and OM-1"
Those do not adapt the battery's voltage. The hole through the center is the giveaway. You'll want to find one without a hole AND with a small circuit. I bought one for about $33 from Kanto Camera on eBay. It works well. I'd suggest spending the extra few bucks for that adapter. Alternately, if you're confident with a soldering iron, the Fix Old Cameras channel has a tutorial showing how to permanently modify a camera's circuit with a resistor to correct the voltage. That permanent fix costs about $3.
Thanks a lot for the reply! I ordered one from Kanto Camera's website, so I should be all set to start BUT... I took the viewfinder off while getting familiar with it and I can't just quite put it back on smoothly all the wayback (the edge of the viewfinder doesn't quite go over). I don't really want to pry it or anything so it's just sitting 3/4 in while I try to find a solution. I saw yours just slid back and clicked, so I'm wondering if this ever happened to you.
@@DavidHancock Thank you for your reply. There is no film in the camera. I could not fire the shutter. After I messaged you, I got it going again. Once in a while, it gets stuck, the advance lever. I am brand new to this vintage camera so I am still figuring it out. That's why I watched both of your TH-cam vids on the Sensorex.
just bought a 1.9 from a junk shop. seems in good order i found your info excellent. I had a flsh kit with mine, I guess the flash is just hand held, or a stand??/ Thanks. Ian
Nice find! I'm not sure how the flash for these work. If it was an old bulb-type flash, it probably plugged in via a cable and would have been either hand-held or attached via a flash grip that screwed into the bottom of the camera.
Just set it on X. The FP flash bulbs aren't made any more, so if you ever use a flash, it will be an X. The actual X/FP setting has no affect on how the camera functions except for when, during the exposure, the electrical current that goes from the camera to the flash to trigger it is sent.
I've got a round disk that move around in the viewfinder. It's not in the way of shooting a picture and the camera still works. It's dark and about the size of the round focus area in the viewfinder.
@@DavidHancock Gravity causes it to move to the bottom as you move the camera. The Miranda Automex was my first slr when I was 14. It was actually an earlier version but looked pretty similar. It was the Miranda adds in Popular Photographer with the girls that got my attention. I ordered it from a place in NY back in 1959.
The battery only powers the light meter so you can use the camera just fine without a battery assuming you have the aperture and shutter speed set correctly.
@@DavidHancock ah yeah, ive just been trying my best to remain zen about it, and to not touch it if i can until i have a battery solution. Ever had any problem with the aperture not closing? I think mines a bit sticky, but I swapped out the spring and it will go back with the extra tension, but only when not on. When it's on it won't close at all.
For your aperture, it might be working properly. Here's how to test that: set the camera to "B" and the aperture to 16. Then hold the shutter button down and check the aperture, which should close. The aperture will remain open, regardless of setting, until the photo is taken. That's how the light meter can work correctly -- the aperture is fully open which allows the maximum light level into the meter cell and then there's a linkage between the lens and camera that tells the camera what aperture the lens is set to. The light meter display then compensates the reading based on that but the camera won't actually close the aperture until the photo is taken. IIRC, there's a DoF preview on this camera or the lenses, forget which, and you can use that with the lens at f/16 to see how much darker the viewfinder gets. That light loss would make focusing very hard, so the camera does everything with the aperture open until the photo is taken.
So why do you think the Pentax k1000 and minolta SRTs have become the gold standard in full manual cameras when you could get a miranda for similar or less money? I've had both those, and not to take away from what they are, they aren't a bad camera, but I've sold my k1000s to invest into different models.
Miranda was always a bit-part player in the camera market. By the time SLRs became affordable enough to be photo class standards, instead of rangefinders, Miranda was basically defunct. Pentax and Minolta has the least-expensive, and arguably best, all-manual cameras. In both cases, the K1000 and SRT bodies, they work without a battery just fine whereas a comparable Canon (AT-1) needs batteries. I can't think of a comparable Nikon that's JUST a fully manual camera. Same with Olympus cameras being too expensive. So it was timing, cost, and functionality that, I think, combined to make them standards.
You can use the matte field to focus and what's in focus on the focusing screen will be in focus on your film. If there's a split prism (I forget with this model if there is) then you can use a line in the scene that's on your focus plane perpendicular to the image to obtain focus.
What happen if you accidentally put the red dot to the green line, and turn that clockwise, but you immediately realize and take it to fix it to the right place?
Hi, i really hope u stay here My dad has a Miranda sensorex ll but i don't know how to open the rol or that place where the rol goes, can someone help me?
I am still here, yes. Check out the part of the video where I show how to open the film back and load film. If the camera back is not opening it may just need some work once you'd released the lock far enough. Sometimes old light seal material (in the channel where the back nests with the body) becomes very sticky.
3:19 You lost me right here... It's tooooooooo painful to see someone destroying the precious older film in today's life that is a soon to become instinct entity. 😱😜🤪
This is a very, very bad camera for anyone who suffers from LBA. We need a digital-sensor version to make things even worse again! :p The infinitely variable aperture is also seen with the Industar 50/3.5 on any M42 camera with TTL metering, but that lens is an ergonomic and workflow nightmare. It was worth the pittance I paid for the experiment, but I won't take it out for any shooting that matters.
Great review and tutorial! I’ve started using the “Wein Cell” brand batteries which are 1.3v. The light meter is now spot on (no pun). This is definitely one of my favorite cameras to use. With the waist level viewfinder it makes a wonderful Street Photography Camera.
Thank you!
Where online can I find the battery you mention?
Mid century Chrysler 300 grille comes to mind every time I see one.
I learned photography starting age 15 in 1978 after digging out my late father’s black Sensorex.
Travelling in high school I started thinking why my dad bought such an oddball brand,since 49mm threaded filters were scarce in stores compared to 52’s. It got me through till I Discovered his kallofkex tlr. Another good camera but also an oddball.
Great manual once again, David. I was gifted a Sensorex with a missing rewind crank (it was snapped off by a nasty bump, by the looks of it) yesterday and although I will probably not be able to use my copy I knew that I could count on you to deliver a comprehensive video manual that would ignite my interest and seek out a working copy. Of note, I would like to add that your comments on internet detractors (from your first video) is spot on! The first time I heard of the Miranda it was in reference to how easily they break and how poorly they manage the passing of time from a mechanical level. And others brushed it off solely because they were ethically opposed to Miranda's marketing campaigns back in the day. If it wasn't for the snapped off rewind crank on my copy, I would have loaded film in it by now but everything else on my copy is working perfectly fine. I agree with you though - the internet (including TH-camrs) is full of opinions not earned through experience and know-how. It's good to keep an open mind about opinions that seem to be nothing more than echos in an empty canyon. Your videos are always informative and I appreciate your hard work in delivering them to us. I will definitely seek out a working copy of the Sensorex and this video series has everything to do with that interest. Keep sharing!
Thank you!
Very great review David, as always. I ordered a Sensorex a couple of days ago. Can't wait to try it. This is clearly an underated camera.
Thank you, Jeremy!
Thank you very much for this video, I just bought two of these cameras and five lenses and had no idea where to start.
Thank you and nice find!
thank you making these!! and for making a video index! SO helpful I got lucky at an estate sale and I am so stoked to use my miranda sensorex.
Nice find! The index was a viewer suggestion, and it was a great idea.
got an early f1.9 Miranda Sensorex, and your video was of course invaluable, as to it.s operation with fixed lenses. I am thrilled to have one of these beauties....they have real character!
Last week, I got a battery for an Olympus RA, and Wein Zinc Air Batteries come with a size adapter attached to them if you need.
Nice! The zinc-air batteries work well and provide the proper voltage. Their lifespan is much shorter than alkaline batteries, however.
David, looking through my old Sensorex negatives from the 70's one of the features of the 50mm f1.8 is the ability to focus at a distance of only 17 inches. I did violate the sharpness of the lens by using a sky 1b filter in the day, I was a sloppy photographer, and "pixel peeping" didn't exist then, so I couldn't really tell the difference till now.
The old skylight filters didn't make nearly as noticeable a difference back when older film stocks were used. But today, on digital and modern very-sharp films, the filters make a difference.
David, many thanks for your tip !!!
Any time! I'm always glad to help another photographer out.
I have a question about your method of compensating for a 1.5v battery. I don't have one of these cameras but I have others that originally used mercury cell batteries. In your explanation the added voltage underexposes by two stops, right? (I realize this may very but lets say I get the same result with my camera). The camera for for this discussion is the Ricoh 500G rangefinder which has a maximum ASA setting of 800. If using your method of verifying exposure results in an ASA setting of 100, then setting the ASA at 400 would essentially result in a 2-stop push with a 3-stop push being possible at a setting of ASA 800, right? I've wanted to push some tri-x in this camera but haven't bothered because of the limited ASA capabilities of the camera. What are your thoughts?
+DCN2010 So basically the compensation trick is a way of tricking the camera into giving you a proper meter reading. What you're doing is saying 'okay, this camera thinks I have 400 when I have 100, so I'm going to adjust to setting to make it give me the proper reading.' And yes, that absolutely reduces the films that you can use. That said, older cameras were designed for slower films, emulsion speeds that aren't widely available any more. So if you stick with 50 through 400 ISO, then you ought to be able to use it on any old camera with a 1.3v battery. Also, most of the older cameras don't have fast enough shutter speeds to let you use ultra-fast films any way.
Video so very informative and helpful! Thanks so much! I recently inherited a SensorX and was wondering why my film advancer does not crank all the way he stops about halfway, and doesn’t advanced the film? Why is that? Also, does the camera need a battery to shoot? What is the battery charge? Thanks again!
Thank you! For the battery, it only powers the light meter and the camera will mechanically function without it. For the film advance, the advance lever will only work after firing the shutter. It will also stop advancing when you reach the end of the roll of film. Just to check, have you triggered the shutter and do you still have film left to use on your roll?
Thanks for this video, I just got this camera as a gift and your video really helped.
Thank you, and what a great gift, too!
Extremely helpful! I just got one of these but unfortunately it didn't come with a battery so I'm trying to find one. If I get the A76 button cell battery, should it be 1.5v or 1.3v? and will I also need the adapter if I get those instead of the modern px625? Thanks!!!!
forgot to ask if u got any recommendations/links for which ones to get and what kind of adapter I should look for...A76 battery adapter?
Thank you! For the A76,they're all 1.5V. You can get them at any pharmacy. For the adapter, there are non-voltage-adapting models on eBay for around $10 and the MR9 voltage-adapting model is around $35.
Thank You!! :)@@DavidHancock
Thanks for this tutorial, just bought one of this it seems to work 😊. Heavy camera gives the impression of quality.
Thank you! And yes, these are definitely nice cameras.
hi, i have a question! i just recieved this camera and im new to film alltogether. and on the first day i got it, the film advance lever was able to go all the way back like it was suppose to and the shutter button worked, but now the lever will only go halfway and the button wont work. i havent even used the camera yet. any ideas on what could be the problem? thanks in advance!
Knee-jerk thought is that it already had film in it. You can check this by rewinding the film. If the knob spins freely there's no film. If it doesn't, then there is film. In that event, rewind the film (with the rewind button depressed) and then develop it if you want. Then your camera should work fine. If that's not the case let me know.
Hi. Are all of the Miranda viewfinders interchangeable between different models of Miranda cameras? Thanks.
Nope. Each model has different viewfinders, if I recall.
@@DavidHancock Thank you! I have a Soligor / Miranda TM.
would you say i can use it without the battery? It's impossible to get the adapter or anything similar here in Argentina.
Yup. The battery only powers the light meter so as long as you know your exposure settings then you can use this without a battery.
Hey! Hope you still answer questions! Really enjoyed your video's. I have a small question. How is the battery converter/adapter called. I wanna buy it somewhere but have no idea how to search it. Found a sensorx ee 50 AUD in a store in the middle of nowhere. But can't find a battery to fit...
I do still respond to questions. Here is an affiliate search link for the MR9 adapter: bit.ly/YTDH_MR9 Make sure you get the MR9 adapter that corrects for voltage (around USD $27).
@@DavidHancock Hi David! I was wondering what battery you would best recommend to use with this adaptor? I have a modern day PX625A and was hoping to use that with the Miranda Sensorex.
Hi David! I recently picked up a Sensorex and my light meter only works when the camera's on/off switch is turned half way between on and off. If I turn the lever all the way to on, the light meter shuts back off. Any idea how I might be able to fix this? Otherwise the camera is in great condition, just need to replace the light seals. Thanks :)
Tape. 😃 So that sounds like the switch is at fault and without taking the camera apart there's likely no fix.
As for your light seals, have you seen my video on using cotton yarn for those?
David, love the detail you have in the videos. Bought my first Sensorex used in 1971, bought another later on and starting to shoot with them more now. What is your opinion on the 50mm F1.8 vs the older 5cm F1.9 ( I shot mostly with that one) ?
Thank you!
The 50mm f/1.8 is a stunning lens, at least in the 46mm thread. I haven't used the 1.9, so I can't say how it stacks up. My guess is that it's comparable. I have read that they're the same lens inside, but I can't verify that independently.
Thanks for the video. I just picked one up. Very mint. It has a 35mm f2.8 lens so I'll have to try and find a f1.4 as the camera starts at f1.4. Do you have a link or site as to where I can get the battery and adapter you reference in the video? Thanks again.
Nice! Any simple brass LR44 adapter off eBay will work. if you buy a 675 hearing aid battery that has voltage close enough that you can use it directly with no tricks or modifications to your settings.
@@DavidHancock great thanks.
hey David. I may have missed this earlier but is the battery necessary to use the camera? i read somewhere it was just for light meter (not to sure what that means). i've been taking pictures with the camera but if they aren't actually taking to the film without the battery could i just rewind the film back in and reuse it? thanks! awesome video.
Talking Box Co. The Sensorex will take photos without a battery. The shutter mechanism -- the bits that block light from reaching the film until you take the image -- are clockwork and operate on springs and levers. So whether you have a battery or not, the camera is capable of taking photos. The battery is used to power the light meter, which means the needle on the right side of the image in the viewfinder. That needle tells you if you're taking a photo that will be properly exposed. Check the video's description for an index with a link to the part of the video that shows how to use that feature.
But yes, if your camera works properly, then the images are being made on the film even without a battery. How have you been metering your images for proper exposure if you aren't using the camera's on-board meter?
Hi, I'm new to the film camera and recently I got the exact same Miranda Sensorex.. I have a question.. so when I take a picture with f/16, do I have to hold the stop down button and shoot the photo? If I don't hold it, then the aperture opens fully and it acts like f/1.8.. I'm confused
It's been a LONG time since I sold this camera so I'm going from memory, but I think that this has open-aperture metering. That means that the aperture is wide open until you take the photo. To test that, with no film in the camera (unless you've already loaded the film and are okay with ruining one frame) set the shutter to bulb and the aperture to f/16. Push and hold the shutter button and the aperture should then close down. If it does not, let me know with an at in your reply and I can help you diagnose the lens from there.
@@DavidHancock I set to f/16 and shutter to B, and when I shoot it, the aperture closes down slowly, not like very quickly. Is this normal?
@@ikermdoj222 That's not normal. You have oil oh the aperture blades. The lens needs a bit of disassembly and cleaning to work properly.
@@DavidHancock ok. that sounds complicated... do you think it is okay if I just hold the preview button to close down the aperture manually and shoot it?
You can do that. The process would be to take a meter reading with the lens aperture set but the DoF preview not depressed. Then dial in your settings. Then before taking the photo, hold the DoF preview down and take the photo when the aperture closes fully.
Miranda serial 747532 the shutter speed dial does not work , is set at B, when turned does not change speed and not click as before, don,t know what happend !!! can you give some advise,
many thanks.
The Fix Old Cameras channel is a better source than I for repair questions.
Well let's see I'll let you know when I get mine should be this week your the only one I know has explained this to make sense. 😊
Thank you!
Hey great videos! I wish to ask you if there is a way to adapt this lens to Canon EOS EF bodies. Regards!
Thank you and unfortunately no. The register distance is shorter than EF, I believe.
@@DavidHancock Thank you for your kind response.
Thanks for the video. I was using the same camera yesterday and at some point I cocked the shutter but the shutter release button stopped working. I couldn't press it. I removed the film and I tried again, but nothing happened. Did you ever face such issue? please advice.
Hmm. I never had that happen. Was the film at the end of the roll when that happened?
Hello! I'm looking on eBay to buy a copper battery adapter, but since they are around 20$, I'd like to make sure I order the correct one. One of them looks like the one you are using and the other seems to be deeper? The auction I'm about to order from is titled "2 X COPPER-MADE MR-9, PX625, PX13 Battery Adapter, for Canonet QL17 and OM-1"
Those do not adapt the battery's voltage. The hole through the center is the giveaway. You'll want to find one without a hole AND with a small circuit. I bought one for about $33 from Kanto Camera on eBay. It works well. I'd suggest spending the extra few bucks for that adapter.
Alternately, if you're confident with a soldering iron, the Fix Old Cameras channel has a tutorial showing how to permanently modify a camera's circuit with a resistor to correct the voltage. That permanent fix costs about $3.
Thanks a lot for the reply! I ordered one from Kanto Camera's website, so I should be all set to start BUT... I took the viewfinder off while getting familiar with it and I can't just quite put it back on smoothly all the wayback (the edge of the viewfinder doesn't quite go over). I don't really want to pry it or anything so it's just sitting 3/4 in while I try to find a solution. I saw yours just slid back and clicked, so I'm wondering if this ever happened to you.
It did if I mis-aligned it. I just pulled it out and tried to align it again. It took me a few tries to figure out how to seat it just right.
I have the Miranda Sensorex. What do do about the stuck shutter crank? It will not crank and I did not want to force it.
The crank will only advance after the shutter is fired. Have you fired the shutter? Also, is there film in the camera?
@@DavidHancock Thank you for your reply. There is no film in the camera. I could not fire the shutter. After I messaged you, I got it going again. Once in a while, it gets stuck, the advance lever. I am brand new to this vintage camera so I am still figuring it out. That's why I watched both of your TH-cam vids on the Sensorex.
just bought a 1.9 from a junk shop. seems in good order i found your info excellent. I had a flsh kit with mine, I guess the flash is just hand held, or a stand??/ Thanks. Ian
Nice find! I'm not sure how the flash for these work. If it was an old bulb-type flash, it probably plugged in via a cable and would have been either hand-held or attached via a flash grip that screwed into the bottom of the camera.
David Hancock I'll keep you posted. Thanks. IAN.
Thank you so much
Thank you!
What do I set as far as x/fp if I have no flash apparatus for my sensorex? Novice slr user here. :) Your videos are super helpful! Thanks for posting.
Just set it on X. The FP flash bulbs aren't made any more, so if you ever use a flash, it will be an X. The actual X/FP setting has no affect on how the camera functions except for when, during the exposure, the electrical current that goes from the camera to the flash to trigger it is sent.
I've got a round disk that move around in the viewfinder. It's not in the way of shooting a picture and the camera still works. It's dark and about the size of the round focus area in the viewfinder.
It moves freely like the black disc in a googly eye?
@@DavidHancock Gravity causes it to move to the bottom as you move the camera. The Miranda Automex was my first slr when I was 14. It was actually an earlier version but looked pretty similar. It was the Miranda adds in Popular Photographer with the girls that got my attention. I ordered it from a place in NY back in 1959.
@@sunnyus101 I have no idea what the cause of that would be.
Oh my lord where can I get one of those a76 adapters. I have a canonet that has one of those pix batteries in it.
Can I photograph whithout a battery, as if I turned battery of and flash to x?
The battery only powers the light meter so you can use the camera just fine without a battery assuming you have the aperture and shutter speed set correctly.
@@DavidHancock thank you for the speed answer!
Does this camera need to have the battery to operate?
Only to operate the light meter. All the other functions are purely mechanical.
With the battery cover, I spent 40 minutes last night trying to get it back on aha. It just did not want to play ball at all.
If the raceways or threads are a bit damaged, especially where they start, that can happen.
@@DavidHancock ah yeah, ive just been trying my best to remain zen about it, and to not touch it if i can until i have a battery solution. Ever had any problem with the aperture not closing? I think mines a bit sticky, but I swapped out the spring and it will go back with the extra tension, but only when not on. When it's on it won't close at all.
For your aperture, it might be working properly. Here's how to test that: set the camera to "B" and the aperture to 16. Then hold the shutter button down and check the aperture, which should close. The aperture will remain open, regardless of setting, until the photo is taken. That's how the light meter can work correctly -- the aperture is fully open which allows the maximum light level into the meter cell and then there's a linkage between the lens and camera that tells the camera what aperture the lens is set to. The light meter display then compensates the reading based on that but the camera won't actually close the aperture until the photo is taken. IIRC, there's a DoF preview on this camera or the lenses, forget which, and you can use that with the lens at f/16 to see how much darker the viewfinder gets. That light loss would make focusing very hard, so the camera does everything with the aperture open until the photo is taken.
So why do you think the Pentax k1000 and minolta SRTs have become the gold standard in full manual cameras when you could get a miranda for similar or less money? I've had both those, and not to take away from what they are, they aren't a bad camera, but I've sold my k1000s to invest into different models.
Miranda was always a bit-part player in the camera market. By the time SLRs became affordable enough to be photo class standards, instead of rangefinders, Miranda was basically defunct. Pentax and Minolta has the least-expensive, and arguably best, all-manual cameras. In both cases, the K1000 and SRT bodies, they work without a battery just fine whereas a comparable Canon (AT-1) needs batteries. I can't think of a comparable Nikon that's JUST a fully manual camera. Same with Olympus cameras being too expensive. So it was timing, cost, and functionality that, I think, combined to make them standards.
any tips on how to focus?
You can use the matte field to focus and what's in focus on the focusing screen will be in focus on your film. If there's a split prism (I forget with this model if there is) then you can use a line in the scene that's on your focus plane perpendicular to the image to obtain focus.
What happen if you accidentally put the red dot to the green line, and turn that clockwise, but you immediately realize and take it to fix it to the right place?
If you can unmount the lens and re-mount it correctly, you should be okay.
Thanks!!! And your video is really helpful :)
Thank you!
Hi, i really hope u stay here
My dad has a Miranda sensorex ll but i don't know how to open the rol or that place where the rol goes, can someone help me?
I am still here, yes. Check out the part of the video where I show how to open the film back and load film. If the camera back is not opening it may just need some work once you'd released the lock far enough. Sometimes old light seal material (in the channel where the back nests with the body) becomes very sticky.
Yup, i watch that part but the back of the camera isn't the same, in mine is just a cover there is no switch or button
@@zaladin5293 Oh, it's a II! I think with that one you simply lift the film rewind knob.
@@DavidHancock thank you!! Finally i open it
3:19 You lost me right here... It's tooooooooo painful to see someone destroying the precious older film in today's life that is a soon to become instinct entity. 😱😜🤪
IIRC, I accidentally ruined that film by not closing the canister properly when I loaded it anyway.
This is a very, very bad camera for anyone who suffers from LBA. We need a digital-sensor version to make things even worse again! :p
The infinitely variable aperture is also seen with the Industar 50/3.5 on any M42 camera with TTL metering, but that lens is an ergonomic and workflow nightmare. It was worth the pittance I paid for the experiment, but I won't take it out for any shooting that matters.