Fortunately, as a retired Tool and Die Maker I still have my prized precision instruments that I used for 40+ years. These are a mix of Starrett and Mitutoyo calipers and Micrometers. The one one thing you didn't discuss was the "between the ears" satisfaction that comes from KNOWING that you have a quality product in your hand. Confidence! It means a lot to me whether I'm gaging a precision work piece or tool or fixing an old coaster wagon. I have to admit though, that the price difference would give pause to consider.
This video isn't for you. Doing t&d for 40 years no tool can be good enough. But for the vast number of hobbyist this video shows there's often little reason to literally throw money away chasing precision. Some HF tools aren't this good, but many are at a ⅒ the price
As a police officer and hobby machinist, I wouldn't have this hobby if it weren't for cheap tools and machines. I know we are not to speak of HF out loud but I cant afford to spend $200 on calipers when $35 will do. Occasionally, I enjoy picking up name brand tools on ebay for a good price but it doesn't happen often. I don't live in a metro area so if I waited around for a good Hardinge lathe to go on sale I would still be waiting. Instead, I learned on a HF lathe and maybe one day I'll get lucky and some good American machine may find its way into my shop. Thanks for sharing your knowledge by the way.
I always go to my local thrift stores and peruse their tool sections. A lot of time I have noticed that they have no idea what they have indicated by the countless micrometers in the bottom of a bin of c-clamps. Sometimes you’ll have to take a wire brush to some things or to calibrate some mic’s but its good practice. People who own tools and put them on eBay usually know what they have. Same thing with craigslist and facebook marketplace. But the thrift store is usually clueless and a lot of them, at least in my community, fund some needed services like hospice care or in home care for the disabled so the better the deal, the more I put in the donation jar at the front counter. Win-Win
Most useful comparison. Higher end measuring tools are always nice but must say, for value the HF items are really not at all bad, if we accept any limitations. Certainly if one's budget is limited the HF stuff is an adequate alternative, and accuracy can be very acceptable.
+ChrisB257 I was buying the same kinds of imported tools from ENCO before Harbor Freight exploded all over the map. For basic measuring tools for less intensive use, especially if you cannot write the purchase price off as a business expense on your taxes, the inexpensive imports can keep you going - or get you going where you might not have the money to buy the name brand widgets...
0 - 1" micrometers: I own a Brown & Sharp, a Mitutoyo, a high-quality Chinese with a vernier scale, and a very cheap Harbor Freight - they ALL WORK FINE! Most often I use the one that is closest at hand. I have personal preference for the Mitutoyo because my son purchased it for me as a gift. On the other hand, the Harbor Freight is easy to read and appears accurate although I've never done a side-by-side comparison with gauge blocks. Most importantly, get out there and USE YOUR TOOLS!
Out of the box, I would expect that both would work pretty good. The real challenge is how each of those mics hold up to the test of time. While I have not ever even held a Harbor Freight micrometer, my experience with most of the cheap import tools is that they work great for a little while but usually crap out on you right when you need them the most. For the home shop machinist that might use the tool a couple of times a year, they have their place, but if you are anything close to a serious home shop machinist, I think you are smarter to invest in higher quality tools. When I was young, first getting started, and did not have much money at all, I bought some import items. Most all of them have been replaced - not because I just wanted to, but because they failed the test of time. Now days, my first choice is to buy quality once rather than junk over and over again. In the long run, an investment in a quality tool will be cheaper because you rarely have to replace them. What would be really interesting is to do some drop tests and see how far of a drop it takes to kill each of the micrometers - see how they hold up to some abuse and then decide which is the better deal!
+just tim They are emoji smiley faces that your device is incorrectly showing as boxes for some reason, maybe your device doesn't have an emoji keyboard feature or something but for some reason it's incapable of reproducing the images......
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org I'll reply, going to have to go with Mitutoyo. Bought my 0-1 mics 20 years ago and would still trust them against a Sheffield on a .0001 tolerance. Of course I'm not a home hobbyist. Plus my question would be on the grade of blocks you are using. I'd bet if you used blocks on Sheffield to calibrate, Mitutoyo comes out ahead. That being said if I was a hobbyist I'd go with HF.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Are you some sort of brand snob by any chance? I suspect so. I have expensive tools and cheap tools too. I have had my expensive tools crap out quicker and more often than my cheaper tools, especially my dial calipers. Out of all the tools I have bought at Harbor Freight, I have only had to return 2 of them. And I got no grief and great service because cheap or expensive, I always invest in an extended service plan. I have been a tech for 47 years and a machinist and gunsmith for 2, and I firmly believe service contracts are worth their weight in gold. Things always break down when the factory warranty goes. What I save having to replace any tool without one is more costly than buying it at the time of purchase. The first thing I do before depending on any tool for precise measurements especially on a gun, is to calibrate them using a set of Starrett gauging blocks since they are the industry standard. You said you never held a Harbor Freight micrometer, but you lump it in with unfounded generalizations. To me this the sign of a brand snob and a bad one at that. One reason along with the fact you like to hear your own voice that I no longer watch your videos.
Great video! Another point to add is where the cheapo's fall flat on there face is the battery life. You'll get ten times the battery life out of mitutoyo. Thanks Andrew
+Andrew Podaca And the batteries are *cheap* these days - I can keep a lot of $0.10 batteries in my supply drawer... If I were in a position where changing the batteries was costing me serious downtime, that would be a point to consider. For home hobby use, $35 is affordable, while $200+ is cutting into my budget for other tooling... Your mileage may vary...
The Toolmiser Also, the cheaper micrometers and calipers have no way of knowing when the battery is low, and can give false readings because of a low battery. That's a way to scrap parts
Some of those cheap tools you have to take the battery out. My HF digital caliper is that way. It doesn't have an off button so its always on and waiting for you to hit a button or move it even though the screen is off. So I just take the battery out when I'm not using it and they last a long time. Kind of annoying, not sure why they didn't put a power button on them.
FYI you can get mitutoyo mics with the racheting stop. What you have is called a rachet thimble. The rachet stop models have the larger OD as the rachet, while still having the thimble as the speeder for quicker movements
Love the unbiased review! as a garage mechanic home machinist sometimes it's nice to know that the cheap stuff performs well enough for the few times I'll use it.
The company I work for has Mitutoyo micrometers like the one in the video that are over 20 years old. I check them every month for accuracy and repair any that need it and I can say that they very few of over 200 or so micrometers at our company need any sort of repair. The batteries, if you buy the silver oxide ones, will last well over a year if left on all the time and some of our operators do that. Also, noting on the comments in the video about the ratchet, Mitutoyo do a variety of types and you can order one with either that you fancy, check out page 2 on their pdf ... www.mitutoyo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/2119-Product-Fund.pdf ...he has a ratchet stop on the video and the Harbour Freight is a ratchet thimble.
I don't have the HF digital Mic, but I have close to 10 of the HF 6" digital calipers. I'm good for misplacing my calipers and spending 20 mins looking for them. Now I have 10 of them dispersed throughout the shop. All 10 of them probably cost me under $150 total with the coupons and sales. For 90% of what I do the calipers are accurate enough. For the remaining 10% of the work I do, I have a full set of 0-12" mics that get pulled out when they're needed. As far as batteries go, I bought 50 of those watch batteries on ebay for under 10 bucks. That was 2 years ago and I still have 40 of them left. The cheapies might be a tad harder on batteries than the more expensive mics, but in all honesty ,I ain't going to walmart and paying $3 for a single battery when I can buy them in bulk online for one tenth the price.
Great points Dale! You would think that for the price Mitutoyo would come with a nice box and preferably one made of wood. I remember my grandpa running the barrel of his mic along his forearm to quickly adjust the opening, which is one thing that you cannot do with the Harbor Freight model. Anyway, I wonder how the Shars version compares to both of these. Thanks for the consistency, time, and effort as it is truly appreciated.
I am a hobbyist and part of the enjoyment of the hobby is working with quality tools. Although some high-end tools like the Mitutoyo ceramic gauge blocks are truly the reserve of the professional, using middle range tools (Mitutoyo micrometers for example) is a HUGE step up from Harbor Freight. Except their rolling toolboxes, I have never seen a Harbor Freight tool that did not feel cheap and disappointing. I buy once, take good care of my tools, and know I will enjoy those tools EVERY TIME I pick them up. Knipex and NWS pliers, Wera and Wiha screwdrivers, Lie Nielsen planes, Festool power tools for woodworking etc. I would not hire a pro with HF tools - for me at least investing in quality is the minimum of self-respect and pride in one's craft. Your mileage may vary.
good point about not hiring someone with higher end stuff. I have mitutoyo and starrett for my dial bore gauges for the outboards I rebuild. I had, years ago, bought a cheap one on ebay for $70, and it got me started, but seeing that gauge needle bounce low and high from 0 from time to time made me think twice. Just feels sloppy, even if the measurements are adequate for what i need. attitude is everything.
Hi Dale, another possible difference is battery life. Cheaper mics sometimes have significant batttery drain even when apparently off. I believe it has something to do with the encoder technology. Maybe others who are more knowlegeable can explain. Bob.
absolutely in my school shop we got harbor freight mics and the battery ran out in a week or so. we hardly used them too as that kinda measurement is uncommon. the worst part is as the battery looses charge it gets less accurate if that makes sense. I only buy dial after working with cheap digitals.... hf is usually 2thou off everytime too
You know my uncle told me same thing that his HF calibers eat through batteries like crazy! Mine never needed battery replaced in 4 years and I used the heck out of it! Like measuring thousands and thousands of cases for trimming. I think they probably used different vendors because my first set was also a LOT more smoother than 2nd one I bought.
Thanks for the comparison. As a spare time engine tuner I ask myself if it is really necessary to spend x-times more for a brand measuring tool. For machine shops it's no question to go with best possible quality, fast working tools which last as long as possible.
I agree absolutely. When it's about tools like mechanic ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers etc. only the best quality is acceptable. No mather if for frequent or permanent use. Otherwise "cheap" can become very expensive.
Just curios. What class are the gauge blocks? Class B may have a +-0.00005 tolerance. Which is fine as long as the operator uses the cert sheet to get the real size when checking tools.
When measuring to the limit of accuracy, put the micrometer in a micrometer stand, so your hot little hand doesn't heat it up and change the reading. ^_*
dale, i have had a hf just like yours for 2 yrs and still works perfect. i also have a mitutoyo and hardley use it. a micrometer stand really helps for accurite readings
Agreed that the boxes are rather cheap.... but, once I start using the tool it rarely goes back in the box... lol Those cheap tools will do mostly the job right, probably wear a little faster, but, for hobby use, you'll never see the end. Even in my everyday use, I often use a cheap $15 digital vernier, if it dies who cares, for a tiny more accuracy I get the Mitutoyo set... And if ==everything is at the same temp==, the tools, the part, to measure and the references, it will give you the correct reading... ;)
I think the video is useful as people are sharing ideas and experiences, like how to roll the thimble on your forearm for rapid thimble action. But I would not have thought the Mitutoyo micro shown in the video cost $200. I have the same older model and they don't go for $200 second hand. I read all the posted comments before posting this and there are excellent points and ideas about how people use their micros. I have two Mitutoyos and one Starrett micrometer, bought on eBay in very good to excellent condition. So I am at least their second owner and they are still working superbly. The analog Mitu cost me $30 with shipping and came in a mahogany wood box. The digital Mitu micro (same as in the vid) came in a bigger mahogany box with a Mitu digital caliper for $80 with shipping. My Starrett 221 super precision direct reading analog micrometer came in a deluxe case that isn't available anymore. This was a gift but I found out how much it cost: $86.67 plus shipping. All three work flawlessly. Do you know which ones I use most? The analogs because they fit better in my hand and are their anvils are slimmer. I love the Starrett when precision turning. It might be a good idea to get to try different makes and models to get a feel for what works best for each person. Daniel
I'll take the Sterrett for myself if you please. FYI, for my toolbox at home (no machining) I picked up a very nice digital vernier caliper at Home Depot fairly cheap, works like a charm but I'm not looking for thousandths there so it's great for rough measurements.
I just graduated from CNC Machinist school. I have been testing the Harbor Freight Caliper, Micrometer, Dial indicators, etc against the "Good", "Expensive" brands at school for the last year. The Harbor Freight products are surprisingly accurate and have held up over time. Now whether they will last 20 years, I cannot tell. But at the price I paid I will not cry a river if I drop and break one.
Just be careful. When I first got into the trade I bought a SPI digital mic from MSC. It seemed nice enough and passed the QC department's calibration. The particular model had no on/off button. You would just turn the thimble to "wake it up". What I found out the hard way was that every time you woke it up it would miss a tenth or two of rotation. Depending on how you woke up the mic your parts could measure big or small. We had to turn parts into inspection for in process checks at set intervals. My hear sank when my in process part came back under size on a +/-.0005 dimension. That mic was quickly junked and replaced with a Starett mic. The cheaper analog/dial tools might be ok, but the digital stuff I don't trust at all.
I dont mind cheap tools but it also depends on what im using it for, when using Genuine Mitutoyo gear you never have to worry about it being inaccurate, when using my cheap measuring tool i always get a Mitutoyo just to see if its accurate 😑
I might have to buy one to use at home. I use 20+ different mitutoyos at work but for someone not doing expensive parts with .0003 tolerances, it would work great .
I never understood the "speed" need on a mic. I mean just haw many times (in actual use) will you be running a mic from full open to full close where a couple seconds will make a big difference? Anyway, I love to comparison, Battery life may be worse since most of the "low price" digital items don't really shut off anything other than the display. (it is possible to install a small switch in them to shut off the battery). Plus one BIG difference, I won't lose sleep if I manage to drop the HF ones on the concrete...... (another advantage is that I wouldn't have an issue cutting one up to make a different tool out of it).
I'm not a HF basher by any means, but if you're doing something just for fun, sometimes its worth getting the Starrett, B&S, or Mitutoyo because they feel so much better in your and are so pleasurable to use. I find the HF measuring tools get flakey after a while and become frustrating.
I got my harbour freight mic on sale for 19.95 when they had one of their parking lot sales it is a little slow but the display is nice and big . Thanks
To make HF one spin faster grab the metal rod (forgot what it's called) and spin that instead, it's faster and convenient. I paid less than $20 for my HF, the problem I see is that when you calibrate it it looses it's zero when you turn off often which means you have to close it all the way to make sure you are calibrated to zero otherwise I am very happy with it.
Andrew Perlik Hi Dale. Thanks for doing this video. Just a few comments. SPI IP54 on sale at MSC for $100 looks like the HF model that you evaluated. I do not know what model Mitutoyo was evaluated, but the function of the extra buttons could be a discriminator. For example, a rezeroing feature would be very useful, and worth extra money to me.
Great practical video. This is the kind of thing a home shop can use. On my budget I could have one brand name or a shop full of useful tools. Considering that brand names don't get you much in this day those with extreme budgets pushing the hype live in a different world than many of us. I can not put all my resources in a very limited array of tooling if I want to actually do any machining. Doug
I have that Harbor Freight one as my first and only micrometer. I'm very happy that you've shown it is accurate. The only issue I've had with mine is that early on it seemed to drain the battery when stored and off, so now I remove the battery every time I put it away. Mildly annoying but not a deal breaker. I'd be curious if others have had that issue or not.
Regarding the one hand problem, we used a micrometer stand back in my days at the quality inspection at Fori Automation (Eurotec). www.midwestflex.com/156-101-10.html
Being a former industrial multicraftman I appreciate the value of a good tool. I hate to but often had to abuse a tool to get the job done. Good ones hold up, the imports usually fold up. Now I am retired on a much smaller income. I wanted to include a home machine shop into my hobbies so I bought an import lathe and import milling machine. Most of my tooling is from imports. I love my new hobby. If it weren't for harbor freight and others, I wouldn't be able to afford my new hobby. Now I have more time and don't have to abuse anything and everything holds up fairly well. There are some duds out there. I love good tools but their price usually forbids me from buying very many. Most of us hobbyist make out as well as our means allow.
I'm a hobbyist and I do use harbor freight tools like these. I would be nice to afford really good equipment but at this point I can not justify it. maybe someday of something I come up with is a marketable item and I have income to justify better I would do so very happily. Like you say this is a comparison for us hobbyist mainly and as one Thank you for the comparisons. It is very helpful to know what I can expect from these tools
My first job out of college was at an aluminum sheet and plate mill, quality control department. We we provided micrometers and 12` tapes. I can assure you the digital is not faster once you learn to add nor more accurate. Vernier scales work fine too without a battery, just getting hard to find.
Dale, thank you for pointing out these practical differences between brands. In a perfect world, both suppliers will take note and at least consider incorporating the best features of the other.
When i was a carpenter i bought tools that last because down time cost money. However as a lathe newbie hobbyist you could buy 5 harbor freight mics over the years. For a hobbyist it may make sense to buy a lot of cheap tools to see if we stick with the hobby instead of paying 5 times the money for lots and lots of tools.
I have a mitutoyo 0-1 micrometer from the 1970's (purely manual, non-digital, of course) that has a beautiful case. Black with some gold colored trim, nice cloth flocked interior. Similar to what you'd expect to see a nice watch or piece of jewelry come in.
good video.a lot of "machinists" here. if you do not own a certified set of block gauges, sit down. they are (suppose) to be your surest reference, to which you check your mics/caps to. you can all pretend that your work is .0005 all day everyday in your garage, yet a precision shop does work in a fully controlled environment for a reason. if every thing had to be manufactured at such precise levels, cars would only last 6 months. not praising HF but its two different worlds when you're a home gamer (even at high skill levels) and a professional.
Great comparison. I have a set of shars micrometers that I got as a gift and they have the ratchet in the same place as the harbor freight which I prefer greatly over the end of the knob.
I started out with SPI as my budget friendly tools and they have great quality and longevity, then over time upgraded to starrett, that has been the most successful venture for me in terms of accuracy and over all quality
Well done. As a home metal mangler, not a machinist, I think the harborfreight micrometer is more accurate than I am likely to be able to work to. If I did not already have a set of Craftsman micrometers I would go with the cheaper one as any mic is better than no mic and cheaper will allow me to get more tools when I need them. Thanks for a great review.
One thing you may not have considered or noticed is that the HF mic is a lot thicker from one side to the other. That can keep you from being able to measure a short pin sticking out of a large plate, for instance. However, I am not really a brand name freak. Whatever works, works for me. All of my Mitutoyo mics are old school analog. The batteries are never dead when I go to use them, especially the bigger ones which get used rarely. I use a $8.00 HF electronic 6" caliper daily, and it gets rode hard and put away wet. The battery has been going about 3 years now. I guess the advice of how they die and the batteries don't last was bogus. The HF caliper even came with a spare battery, not needed yet. I also bought a spare HF caliper for another $8.00 on sale and with coupon, and it is still in the box unopened, not needed yet. Good tool, but I do not use it for precision measuring, more often for rough measuring, scribing, and comparing. Also have an assortment of dial and vernier calipers backing those up. I consider all electronic measuring tools to be throw away toys when they fail, and I find it difficult to spend hundreds on one.
+Paul Frederick I actually have two of them, both the same, one is unused. The HF p/n is 47257. The frame is stainless steel and the plastic is black. These were both bought 2-3 years ago for $9.99 each, less 25% with a coupon, plus tax. The one I am using is bulletproof so far...
IP rating is what separates them. We have went through several harbor freights due to coolant contamination. I have Mitutoyo's from 6 years ago that still read perfectly. Depends on the environment!
I think a case can be made to keep both on hand. Use the cheap one for everyday use and the good one when it's important. Drop the cheap one on big deal but the good one would be a heartbreak.
Great video and I appreciate the knowledge on the subject. I'm a locksmith and for years I've used the Tumico thickness dial mic that I inherited from my grandfather for measuring pins to decode interchangeable cores, etc... Just recently I went to use it and it completely locked up. I know it wasn't dropped, I have NO idea why it's locked up. I'm currently looking for a pro who can fix it (as I don't want to risk making it worse)... but in the mean time I NEED to be able to take measurements... I went down to HF today and got this exact model. Now honestly, I don't need to take measurements to .00005, for what I need .0005 is fine, but it was on sale... Got it home and tried it out and so far so good.... I don't have high hopes that it'll last 60+ years like the Tumico but it's nice to know that I got at least a "fair" to "pretty good" tool for the money.
if we are making a micrometer that doesnt rely on the screw thread pitch with no barrel scale....it could have a much coarser pitch to make it faster to operate...something for future development, or a spring loaded lever?
You are exactly right about that Jusb. Digital measuring tools that used to use the older screw pitch mechanisms now use electronic principles: www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/calipers/how-does-a-digital-caliper-work/
I like that you always keep your little finger crooked through the frame; you drop those things a LOT less often that way. I wonder that you don't roll the thimble against your forearm for fast change of the opening. This was a trick shown me by my grandfather a long time ago, and I've seen it done by other old machinists. The only thing you have to be careful of is when you are approaching the end of travel - you really don't want to slam the spindle and anvil together. That's a good way to bend the frame and put the anvil out of parallel with the spindle. That motionless (in and out) ratchet thimble on the HF mike seems really useful. Now if someone would just make a mike to that design out of a sturdier (and more æsthetically pleasing) material.
I have a number of Mitutoyo measurement tools that are soon to be 50 years old. Doubt that HF stuff would survive that long. Retired now, so they are toys in my garage, but earned their keep when I was a prototype machinist. Have Starrett and Brown and Sharp. Good stuff. Actually have HF calipers. Only trust them to ID drills as they have a fraction setting and I think decimal.
I think the Harbor freight micrometer will most likely stop working long before the Mitutoyo, but the accuracy is very surprising for the price. My first micrometer was the one from Harbor freight. I recently got a set of Starrett 436.1 mics and the HF one is 100% as accurate. And' I would think that the reason the spindle moves in and out more slowly on the HF is that it has more threads per inch than the Mitutoyo, which I think would only add to its accuracy.
Well you asked Dale. For me, the Mits, almost everything I have for measuring equipment is there brand. For gauging I still rely on Starrett for those. Screw pitch gauges, feeler gauges etc. I don't know about right now, but even a year or two ago the Starrett digital equipment was judged by most over on PM as inferior to the Mitutoyo. And battery life? I get an easy 4+ years out of the proper SR-44's. Want a really good set of digital calipers. Try the 6" Mit solar powered. Finest calipers I've had in my hands by far including the Mit analogs. And no dead battery's unless you work in the dark. Mitutoyo boxes. (sigh) they ought to hang there heads in shame. You are so right Dale. I bought a Mit digital indicator.The one that's powered with a wall wart. 543-552A Inside the cardboard box there's a paper thin (no joke) blow molded container that has some really rough shapes to take the indicator, wall wart and manual. Your 1" Mit mike box is a Rolls Royce quality improvement over this. At best it's a good method of protecting the indicator from shipping damage. In no way is it any kind of storage container. The indicator is the very best I've used, but the box? This just isn't the type of indicator you leave out all the time. It needs a damn storage box Mitutoyo. Oh yeah, and when I did very politely email there head office about this problem, I got exactly zero response back. Not sure about that horrible fright mike Dale, but my mitutoyo's come with a test certificate that shows a graph of where the few really minor inaccuracy's are. But I'll freely admit $35 is a steal. IMO good quality tools tend to get looked after. There accuracy and lifespan is usually lengthened by that. Cheap tools no matter how good are used for about everything. So side by side in my shop the Mits will be and will stay accurate for much longer. But good video as always Dale, apology's for the rant. It really did feel good tho. :-)
Great comparison to this two micrometers, I have the Harbor Freight one (the one with 3 buttons) and I like it very much, thanks for sharing this video.
I personally think it comes down to just what the hobby / home machinist is working on, i.e. the wife's blender or maybe something on the car vs a machinist (machine shop) who may have a contract requiring a very close tolerance. You certainly don't need a $200.00 dollar piece of equipment to work on the wife's blender or any other home project(s,) unless that will make you feel warm and fuzzy to own the high price equipment. Not meant to be a put down to either piece of equipment, just how I see the different situations, i.e., night vs day. Thanks for the video, and like you said, it will be up to the viewer to assess his/her needs.
I needed a 0-1 recently. I looked at hf. Looked at others. I ended getting a very nice Fowler from ebay with certification for 15 bucks. Heat covered. Has the ratchet like the HF did instead of like the mitutoyo. Testing shows it to be right in spec. Just an idea for some of you viewers for the future.
Dale I love your comparison type videos. I have to admit that I use off brand or cheap tooling as well, but they have their place as you well know. When you're working the part down to size that is really where the cheap tool has it's place because it is used over and over again and is tossed about in the process. I use the Name Brand tool for the Final Inspection on the part and thus it is usually only used at the end and then put back in it's box and put away. If I drop or break the cheap tool, sure its a bummer but I didn't lose the tool I really care about. Great Video and I hope you do more of these. Cheers, John
For someone who has only an occasional need for certain specialized tools, such as myself working on home projects, I've saved hundreds of dollars buying Harbor Freight tools. On the other hand, if my job, reputation or an expensive piece of equipment were to depend on a tool's accuracy, I wouldn't even consider walking into Harbor Freight's doors.
coffeemaddan What if it's a revolving door? Question. If a revolving door rotates in a counterclockwise direction as you are walking into it here in the US, does it rotate in a clockwise direction in England since they drive to the left instead of to the right? :)
Well, now that this issue has been cleared away by the use of the Coriolis flush. I'm really glad that the Coriolis effect doesn't suggest that we cease to use toilets in protest of the distribution of misinformation given to countless numbers of science students through the years, including myself. Now if we could politely convince the world that driving with the steering wheel on the left side of a vehicle allows the majority of the world's population, which is right handed, the ability to shift gears with their favored right hand. We no longer need to ride on the left to keep our right hand available to swing a weapon, as was necessary when riding upon a horse long ago. Having the steering on the left would also standardize the rules of the road when crossing certain countries' boarders. As for revolving doors, again those that are in the majority of being right handed, will naturally prefer a door that rotates in a counterclockwise direction. This would be due to the fact that right handed people have a natural tendency to bear to the right and to push on a door with their favored hand. For those people throughout the world who don't have toilets, there will be no experimentation with the flow of water. They will just have to accept the information that was kindly provided, as I too will concede that I was duped many years ago.
Agreed that HF does have it's place. I got a 3/4" drive socket set.. did the job, and I have it for the future. I've only used one or two sockets maybe 3x. For something that see's occasional use. it is, what it is. A lot less of an investment vs. Snap-on or Mac, etc... Generalizing: HF is good for one time use / consumable tools. As a professional engineer/tech, I have much better stuff in my boxes to rely on.
John Galt Totally agreed. Their tools are not for the purpose of abuse in an environment where they would be exposed to constant commercial use. I sure wish that they would make a small beam or dial type torque wrench that would read from 0-30 lbs/in. These are what is required to test the pinion bearing preload on an automotive type of rear differential. I had to send off for one and it wasn't cheap. I'll only use it a couple of times a year, if that often. They do have a "click" type of torque wrench in lbs/in, but their range of calibration is too high. Harbor Freight has their place in the tool world. The problem is that people seem to forget that in most cases you get what you pay for. I was a professional mechanic for over 45 years and I used and still have tools that my father used during his career. They are now close to 100 years old.
Great video & comments. For what it's worth, I pretty much use the HF grade tools daily and have relegated my more accurate and expensive tools to the " second order calibration standards" tool box. I consider the HF style tools as disposable. If one drops or is otherwise compromised, I'll breakout the Starrets or B&S tools and check out the compromised tool. Pitching and replacing a HF tool is much less expensive (and easier) than replacing or repairing a high end tool. I had a mentor that taught me that part of "using the right tool for the job" included its accuracy & repeatability characteristics. Why use a $100 tool on a job (and possible break it) when a $10 dollar tool will yield the same results just as fast - if you accidently drop the tool, and you will, which one do you want to have to replace? Most of the stuff I work on, I only have to hold to a few thou at most. When I have to do high accuracy work, I may break out the good stuff (and work much more carefully but slower) ;)
I was at HF with my boy and he was needing tooling for his new lathe and mill we unboxed the 3 Digital mikes they had and all three would not close with the friction knob and would bind, I ended up with a Mitutoyo for about $10 more on ebay auction and my boy bought an Igageing digital mike which is not much more then the HF and performs great. Without going outside I believe my Mitutoyo has the friction thumb drive on the same place as the HF.
This is a fun intro but for me you did not test what you are actually paying for with the Mitutoyo. Run the batteries down to 'almost' dead, then repeat your measuring experiment. Most of the cheap mics and calipers start to wander when they get low voltages, rather than just turning off. Who knows how many false measurements will be taken before the screen dims out and you know the battery is dead. The other test is to take both, put new batteries in, and stick them in a drawer for a year. The cheap electronics pull almost full current even when off (that's how they remember zero) vs the higher end units that hardly draw any power when off. If the unit is rarely used then either the user replaces the battery every other time or stores it with the battery out (as I have to do with my i-gaging stuff). Of course if people going into it know to bulk buy batteries and replace often then there is not as much of a issue.
I came into this observation through a different door. I discovered if I left the battery in on some $20+ calipers, they kept drawing power with it off. I always pop it out when I am done.
I have a collection of both high quality expensive and lower quality budget measuring instruments,most of the work i do does not require super precise targets so i use the budget tools most of the time which are perfectly sufficient for the task at hand.I take out the Mitutoyo's for the jobs that need that confident measurement. There has been (Like many other machinists have had) where i dropped calipers or had something topple over on to a mic and kill it so to replace it with another cheapy one is not a problem......So my general rule in my home workshop for the expensive instruments is if i don't need to use them i don't.
To me, the most important question is, did harbor freight send that to you, or is that one off the shelf? They could have sent you the best one they have.
For those interested I picked up the IP65 mitutoyo mic from a guy on ebay ideal precision for 126 delivered. Not a fake either and was exactly as described BNIB. Totally worth the cash IMO considering these things will more than likely still be reading accurately when I am in the dirt.
for a budget oriented home machinist, I think $35 for HF is the way to go. I really like the budget vs high dollar tool comparisons. This and the last one answered my question as you'll always wonder in the back of your mind on how your cheap tools measure up
I suspect that WalMart, HF and others like them are successful based in part on the 'good enough' principle; they sell stuff that is 'good enough' for the price. For most of us, price is the bottom line, whether we throw longevity, reliability, durability etc into the calculation or not. Thanks for taking the time to create, edit & post this vid; really useful info. 👍👍👍
How much faster is it really when you have to get two hands on it Everytime? If your situated with one hand and need to change the whole position of yourself and whatever else to get a second hand on it.
My experience... They're probably made in the same factory in China. I have a Starrett. It's identical to the Mitutoyo. From the ENCO catalog picture it looks the same as the SPI. All 3 are imports. Computer automated manufacturing and digital micro controllers have eliminated the differences we used to judge these tools by. Little old men in Switzerland with magnifiers on their noses no longer file the precision into gear racks. They're pumped out on their Chinese made CNC tools just like in China. They run equivalent software. The differences are what your video highlighted -- materials and functionality. Both bounce the same when you drop them on the shop floor. The HF plastic breaks. The Mitu metal bounces so you can pick it up and keep using it (is that a good thing?).
How about the quality of the steel? Quality tool steel is a closely guarded secret. Surface finish finish matters a lot on these, you need specially made grinding machines to get into some of the areas. Think they have them? How about the quality of the tool used to make those threads on the mic? The quality of the insert used to cut the thread, how many it was used for before being changed out, etc.
You're just saying this because you never held a pair of Mitutoyo and HF calipers in your hands or even something like a $40 iGaging calipers in your hands. The difference is night and day. Grit like sand movement that returns to zero not every time or smooth as butter that always comes back to zero.
If your a person that has to supply a shop with tools I would buy the harbor freight. Also keep the a Mitotoyo one around for QC. I would guess over time the Harbor freight ones break down. Good comparison tho.
i bought the harbor freight one because I'm a mechanic and only use it occasionally when doing engine rebuilds. if I used it more though i probably would have gotten the mitutoyo just because of overall build quality. however I'm still really happy with it none the less
Funniest thing is that’s a old style mitutoyo probably mid to late 90s, still fine after 20 plus years. I’d be surprised if the other one lasts 2 or 3 years at most
I've bought a few HF measuring tools over the years and my experience it that they don't really hold up that well. On the other hand i have some of their wrenches, ratchets and pliers that have held up to daily use for over a decade.
For $35 having both scales SAE and Metric already is a huge gift. If you wanted that to have on classic analog ones you would need two micrometers one SAE and other Metric but those are two different tools the require calibration. Anyways yes Mitutoyo has a reputation and build quality and if you have one you would think you know more than others but its just a lie to make yourself feel more confident. Same way there are people buying huge trucks but never ever transporting anything..
Dale, I have the same one. I have grown to just love the ratchet position. In comparison it is absolutely spot on with my new Starrett...out to 5 place! I too am partial to Mitutoyo stuff but, I gotta tell ya...that HF is a great deal. Thanks for the great videos! -Tom
Harbor Freight can get the job done now and again, but there is a reason you will find name brands in a fab shop. Reliability. I'll buy a few odds and ends like wire wheels for my grinder at HF but not grinding disks, etc.
I have two Mitutoyo calipers that are over 15 years old and a half dozen cheaper units. After 5 years, all the cheaper units have given up their ghosts. The Mitutoyo units are still working great. My advice to the home hobbiest is to buy once for something you will use forever and don't waste money trying to save a hundred bucks.
your comment is correct for the use for a "home machinist".i could understand using the harbor freight stuff in your garage but if im gonna use any type of tool to make a living be it a set of mechanics tools or a set of machinist tools im certaintly not gonna make my first stop at harbor freight.i defy anyone to watch a nascar or nhra event and point out any team using a nice big set of" U.S. General" tools which are harbor freights top brand.
I completely agree with you on the boxes. Almost every Mitutoyo box I've seen is all warped and flimsy, not to mention they just feel so cheap. I don't want to sound like a fanboy of Starrett, but they certainly make the nicest cases by far. I mean if your spending so much on a precision instrument that will last many lifetimes, can't they supply you with a decent case to protect that investment. I refuse to keep the Mits i own in the boxes and have resorted to foam drawer liners cut to fit each Mic.
Dale. for me an instrument should be designed in appearance to show that you own a piece of equipment, not a plastic knock off. However the HF accuracy was right on the dot. I'm a fan of quality.
A few more selling factors are not only battery life but also, when the voltage starts to drop off the Mitutoyo's will tell you. The cheapo's I have come into contact with do not. This is a BIG deal because of how digital mic's measure, low voltage can throw off the actual measurement and give a bad reading. The price of entry for the expensive ones is true to form consistency.
The great debate seems to be exclusively for hobbyists, for professionals its a given. Also conciser these three points: 1- if you use the same micrometer to measure mating features then accuracy is more or less irrelevant. 2- show me a design that a hobbyist would use that requires sub-thousandths tolerances, even the sliding/press threshold is near 0.001". 3- HF's selection stops at the basic, Mitutoyo has all kinds of special features available (non-rotating spindles, various grades, form factors, ect.) Sorry I don't get it but, it must be a pet-peeve of more than a few people about the Box - make a prototype, have china start banging them out, and sell them!
Interesting! I've never seen a HF digital micrometer. I use their calipers all the time b/c I'm always dropping the darned things and would hate to be dropping a $100 item. For precision (to the level I'm able to achieve) I break out my antique manual micrometers. If I ever decide to invest in a digital micrometer, you've given me something to think about. Thanks!
Fortunately, as a retired Tool and Die Maker I still have my prized precision instruments that I used for 40+ years. These are a mix of Starrett and Mitutoyo calipers and Micrometers. The one one thing you didn't discuss was the "between the ears" satisfaction that comes from KNOWING that you have a quality product in your hand. Confidence! It means a lot to me whether I'm gaging a precision work piece or tool or fixing an old coaster wagon. I have to admit though, that the price difference would give pause to consider.
This video isn't for you. Doing t&d for 40 years no tool can be good enough. But for the vast number of hobbyist this video shows there's often little reason to literally throw money away chasing precision.
Some HF tools aren't this good, but many are at a ⅒ the price
As a police officer and hobby machinist, I wouldn't have this hobby if it weren't for cheap tools and machines. I know we are not to speak of HF out loud but I cant afford to spend $200 on calipers when $35 will do. Occasionally, I enjoy picking up name brand tools on ebay for a good price but it doesn't happen often. I don't live in a metro area so if I waited around for a good Hardinge lathe to go on sale I would still be waiting. Instead, I learned on a HF lathe and maybe one day I'll get lucky and some good American machine may find its way into my shop. Thanks for sharing your knowledge by the way.
yeah, being poor sucks. get a better job maybe.
@@Wat-Dat Wat a dick.
I always go to my local thrift stores and peruse their tool sections. A lot of time I have noticed that they have no idea what they have indicated by the countless micrometers in the bottom of a bin of c-clamps. Sometimes you’ll have to take a wire brush to some things or to calibrate some mic’s but its good practice. People who own tools and put them on eBay usually know what they have. Same thing with craigslist and facebook marketplace. But the thrift store is usually clueless and a lot of them, at least in my community, fund some needed services like hospice care or in home care for the disabled so the better the deal, the more I put in the donation jar at the front counter. Win-Win
ACAB, i'm sure your tolerances are as bad in the shop as they are professionally
6 years late reply sorry. but I like that you're an officer and your name is "oink" glad some people have a sense of humor.
For home hobbyist, Harbor Freight all the way. Most times in my shop, the machines far out pace the operator in tolerances.
+Arock PCB
LoL Me too
Most useful comparison. Higher end measuring tools are always nice but must say, for value the HF items are really not at all bad, if we accept any limitations. Certainly if one's budget is limited the HF stuff is an adequate alternative, and accuracy can be very acceptable.
+ChrisB257 I was buying the same kinds of imported tools from ENCO before Harbor Freight exploded all over the map.
For basic measuring tools for less intensive use, especially if you cannot write the purchase price off as a business expense on your taxes, the inexpensive imports can keep you going - or get you going where you might not have the money to buy the name brand widgets...
0 - 1" micrometers: I own a Brown & Sharp, a Mitutoyo, a high-quality Chinese with a vernier scale, and a very cheap Harbor Freight - they ALL WORK FINE! Most often I use the one that is closest at hand. I have personal preference for the Mitutoyo because my son purchased it for me as a gift. On the other hand, the Harbor Freight is easy to read and appears accurate although I've never done a side-by-side comparison with gauge blocks. Most importantly, get out there and USE YOUR TOOLS!
Out of the box, I would expect that both would work pretty good. The real challenge is how each of those mics hold up to the test of time. While I have not ever even held a Harbor Freight micrometer, my experience with most of the cheap import tools is that they work great for a little while but usually crap out on you right when you need them the most. For the home shop machinist that might use the tool a couple of times a year, they have their place, but if you are anything close to a serious home shop machinist, I think you are smarter to invest in higher quality tools. When I was young, first getting started, and did not have much money at all, I bought some import items. Most all of them have been replaced - not because I just wanted to, but because they failed the test of time. Now days, my first choice is to buy quality once rather than junk over and over again. In the long run, an investment in a quality tool will be cheaper because you rarely have to replace them. What would be really interesting is to do some drop tests and see how far of a drop it takes to kill each of the micrometers - see how they hold up to some abuse and then decide which is the better deal!
Are you giving to donate the mics for the testing😀😀😀 thanks for your comments
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) Dale, what are those 3 square boxes supposed to mean?
+just tim They are emoji smiley faces that your device is incorrectly showing as boxes for some reason, maybe your device doesn't have an emoji keyboard feature or something but for some reason it's incapable of reproducing the images......
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org
I'll reply, going to have to go with Mitutoyo. Bought my 0-1 mics 20 years ago and would still trust them against a Sheffield on a .0001 tolerance. Of course I'm not a home hobbyist. Plus my question would be on the grade of blocks you are using. I'd bet if you used blocks on Sheffield to calibrate, Mitutoyo comes out ahead. That being said if I was a hobbyist I'd go with HF.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Are you some sort of brand snob by any chance? I suspect so. I have expensive tools and cheap tools too. I have had my expensive tools crap out quicker and more often than my cheaper tools, especially my dial calipers. Out of all the tools I have bought at Harbor Freight, I have only had to return 2 of them. And I got no grief and great service because cheap or expensive, I always invest in an extended service plan. I have been a tech for 47 years and a machinist and gunsmith for 2, and I firmly believe service contracts are worth their weight in gold. Things always break down when the factory warranty goes. What I save having to replace any tool without one is more costly than buying it at the time of purchase. The first thing I do before depending on any tool for precise measurements especially on a gun, is to calibrate them using a set of Starrett gauging blocks since they are the industry standard. You said you never held a Harbor Freight micrometer, but you lump it in with unfounded generalizations. To me this the sign of a brand snob and a bad one at that. One reason along with the fact you like to hear your own voice that I no longer watch your videos.
I just need something to measure the thickness of rotors on vehicles, HF looks like the best bet!
Great video! Another point to add is where the cheapo's fall flat on there face is the battery life. You'll get ten times the battery life out of mitutoyo.
Thanks
Andrew
I never thought about that
+Andrew Podaca And the batteries are *cheap* these days - I can keep a lot of $0.10 batteries in my supply drawer...
If I were in a position where changing the batteries was costing me serious downtime, that would be a point to consider.
For home hobby use, $35 is affordable, while $200+ is cutting into my budget for other tooling...
Your mileage may vary...
The Toolmiser Also, the cheaper micrometers and calipers have no way of knowing when the battery is low, and can give false readings because of a low battery. That's a way to scrap parts
Some of those cheap tools you have to take the battery out. My HF digital caliper is that way. It doesn't have an off button so its always on and waiting for you to hit a button or move it even though the screen is off. So I just take the battery out when I'm not using it and they last a long time. Kind of annoying, not sure why they didn't put a power button on them.
you didn't use the clicker on the mitutoyo when measuring 1in block would that make a difference.
edmundo oliver yes
With the mitatoyo, you should compare its digital readout to its analog readout on the barrel. And see if the half ten thou is accurate.
FYI you can get mitutoyo mics with the racheting stop. What you have is called a rachet thimble. The rachet stop models have the larger OD as the rachet, while still having the thimble as the speeder for quicker movements
Love the unbiased review! as a garage mechanic home machinist sometimes it's nice to know that the cheap stuff performs well enough for the few times I'll use it.
The company I work for has Mitutoyo micrometers like the one in the video that are over 20 years old. I check them every month for accuracy and repair any that need it and I can say that they very few of over 200 or so micrometers at our company need any sort of repair. The batteries, if you buy the silver oxide ones, will last well over a year if left on all the time and some of our operators do that.
Also, noting on the comments in the video about the ratchet, Mitutoyo do a variety of types and you can order one with either that you fancy, check out page 2 on their pdf ... www.mitutoyo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/2119-Product-Fund.pdf ...he has a ratchet stop on the video and the Harbour Freight is a ratchet thimble.
The home guy ain’t making parts for nuke plants or the military.
I don't have the HF digital Mic, but I have close to 10 of the HF 6" digital calipers. I'm good for misplacing my calipers and spending 20 mins looking for them. Now I have 10 of them dispersed throughout the shop. All 10 of them probably cost me under $150 total with the coupons and sales. For 90% of what I do the calipers are accurate enough. For the remaining 10% of the work I do, I have a full set of 0-12" mics that get pulled out when they're needed.
As far as batteries go, I bought 50 of those watch batteries on ebay for under 10 bucks. That was 2 years ago and I still have 40 of them left. The cheapies might be a tad harder on batteries than the more expensive mics, but in all honesty ,I ain't going to walmart and paying $3 for a single battery when I can buy them in bulk online for one tenth the price.
Great points Dale! You would think that for the price Mitutoyo would come with a nice box and preferably one made of wood. I remember my grandpa running the barrel of his mic along his forearm to quickly adjust the opening, which is one thing that you cannot do with the Harbor Freight model. Anyway, I wonder how the Shars version compares to both of these. Thanks for the consistency, time, and effort as it is truly appreciated.
I am a hobbyist and part of the enjoyment of the hobby is working with quality tools. Although some high-end tools like the Mitutoyo ceramic gauge blocks are truly the reserve of the professional, using middle range tools (Mitutoyo micrometers for example) is a HUGE step up from Harbor Freight. Except their rolling toolboxes, I have never seen a Harbor Freight tool that did not feel cheap and disappointing. I buy once, take good care of my tools, and know I will enjoy those tools EVERY TIME I pick them up. Knipex and NWS pliers, Wera and Wiha screwdrivers, Lie Nielsen planes, Festool power tools for woodworking etc. I would not hire a pro with HF tools - for me at least investing in quality is the minimum of self-respect and pride in one's craft. Your mileage may vary.
good point about not hiring someone with higher end stuff. I have mitutoyo and starrett for my dial bore gauges for the outboards I rebuild. I had, years ago, bought a cheap one on ebay for $70, and it got me started, but seeing that gauge needle bounce low and high from 0 from time to time made me think twice. Just feels sloppy, even if the measurements are adequate for what i need. attitude is everything.
Hi Dale, another possible difference is battery life. Cheaper mics sometimes have significant batttery drain even when apparently off. I believe it has something to do with the encoder technology. Maybe others who are more knowlegeable can explain. Bob.
absolutely in my school shop we got harbor freight mics and the battery ran out in a week or so. we hardly used them too as that kinda measurement is uncommon. the worst part is as the battery looses charge it gets less accurate if that makes sense. I only buy dial after working with cheap digitals.... hf is usually 2thou off everytime too
Ave did a video on that I think
You know my uncle told me same thing that his HF calibers eat through batteries like crazy! Mine never needed battery replaced in 4 years and I used the heck out of it! Like measuring thousands and thousands of cases for trimming. I think they probably used different vendors because my first set was also a LOT more smoother than 2nd one I bought.
Thanks for the comparison. As a spare time engine tuner I ask myself if it is really necessary to spend x-times more for a brand measuring tool. For machine shops it's no question to go with best possible quality, fast working tools which last as long as possible.
I personally only buy the best when Im going to used it a lot. :-)
I agree absolutely. When it's about tools like mechanic ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers etc. only the best quality is acceptable. No mather if for frequent or permanent use. Otherwise "cheap" can become very expensive.
Just curios. What class are the gauge blocks? Class B may have a +-0.00005 tolerance. Which is fine as long as the operator uses the cert sheet to get the real size when checking tools.
When measuring to the limit of accuracy, put the micrometer in a micrometer stand, so your hot little hand doesn't heat it up and change the reading. ^_*
dale, i have had a hf just like yours for 2 yrs and still works perfect. i also have a mitutoyo and hardley use it. a micrometer stand really helps for accurite readings
Agreed that the boxes are rather cheap.... but, once I start using the tool it rarely goes back in the box... lol
Those cheap tools will do mostly the job right, probably wear a little faster, but, for hobby use, you'll never see the end.
Even in my everyday use, I often use a cheap $15 digital vernier, if it dies who cares, for a tiny more accuracy I get the Mitutoyo set...
And if ==everything is at the same temp==, the tools, the part, to measure and the references, it will give you the correct reading... ;)
It's hard to beat the value of cheap tools
2 videos the same week! Jackpot! I enjoy your comparison videos. Nice to know you can still get an accurate measurement on a budget.
I'm glad you liked it. I'm going to try to put out 2 videos a week. Wish me luck.
Yep… I got one.. didn’t expect the performance that it gives…but it keeps reading as accurate as my quality ones.. can’t complain
I think the video is useful as people are sharing ideas and experiences, like how to roll the thimble on your forearm for rapid thimble action. But I would not have thought the Mitutoyo micro shown in the video cost $200. I have the same older model and they don't go for $200 second hand. I read all the posted comments before posting this and there are excellent points and ideas about how people use their micros.
I have two Mitutoyos and one Starrett micrometer, bought on eBay in very good to excellent condition. So I am at least their second owner and they are still working superbly. The analog Mitu cost me $30 with shipping and came in a mahogany wood box. The digital Mitu micro (same as in the vid) came in a bigger mahogany box with a Mitu digital caliper for $80 with shipping.
My Starrett 221 super precision direct reading analog micrometer came in a deluxe case that isn't available anymore. This was a gift but I found out how much it cost: $86.67 plus shipping. All three work flawlessly. Do you know which ones I use most? The analogs because they fit better in my hand and are their anvils are slimmer. I love the Starrett when precision turning. It might be a good idea to get to try different makes and models to get a feel for what works best for each person.
Daniel
Thanks for the review. Shame the nearest harbor freight is 6500 miles away from me
I'll take the Sterrett for myself if you please. FYI, for my toolbox at home (no machining) I picked up a very nice digital vernier caliper at Home Depot fairly cheap, works like a charm but I'm not looking for thousandths there so it's great for rough measurements.
I just graduated from CNC Machinist school. I have been testing the Harbor Freight Caliper, Micrometer, Dial indicators, etc against the "Good", "Expensive" brands at school for the last year. The Harbor Freight products are surprisingly accurate and have held up over time. Now whether they will last 20 years, I cannot tell. But at the price I paid I will not cry a river if I drop and break one.
Just be careful. When I first got into the trade I bought a SPI digital mic from MSC. It seemed nice enough and passed the QC department's calibration. The particular model had no on/off button. You would just turn the thimble to "wake it up". What I found out the hard way was that every time you woke it up it would miss a tenth or two of rotation. Depending on how you woke up the mic your parts could measure big or small. We had to turn parts into inspection for in process checks at set intervals. My hear sank when my in process part came back under size on a +/-.0005 dimension. That mic was quickly junked and replaced with a Starett mic. The cheaper analog/dial tools might be ok, but the digital stuff I don't trust at all.
I dont mind cheap tools but it also depends on what im using it for, when using Genuine Mitutoyo gear you never have to worry about it being inaccurate, when using my cheap measuring tool i always get a Mitutoyo just to see if its accurate 😑
I might have to buy one to use at home. I use 20+ different mitutoyos at work but for someone not doing expensive parts with .0003 tolerances, it would work great .
I never understood the "speed" need on a mic. I mean just haw many times (in actual use) will you be running a mic from full open to full close where a couple seconds will make a big difference? Anyway, I love to comparison, Battery life may be worse since most of the "low price" digital items don't really shut off anything other than the display. (it is possible to install a small switch in them to shut off the battery). Plus one BIG difference, I won't lose sleep if I manage to drop the HF ones on the concrete...... (another advantage is that I wouldn't have an issue cutting one up to make a different tool out of it).
😀
The price difference would buy a lot of toys for the home shop.
I'm not a HF basher by any means, but if you're doing something just for fun, sometimes its worth getting the Starrett, B&S, or Mitutoyo because they feel so much better in your and are so pleasurable to use. I find the HF measuring tools get flakey after a while and become frustrating.
I got my harbour freight mic on sale for 19.95 when they had one of their parking lot sales it is a little slow but the display is nice and big . Thanks
I don't wanna take anything from other guys that have done this same review but it is nice to hear the opinion of a true professional as well.
To make HF one spin faster grab the metal rod (forgot what it's called) and spin that instead, it's faster and convenient. I paid less than $20 for my HF, the problem I see is that when you calibrate it it looses it's zero when you turn off often which means you have to close it all the way to make sure you are calibrated to zero otherwise I am very happy with it.
Andrew Perlik
Hi Dale. Thanks for doing this video. Just a few comments. SPI IP54 on sale at MSC for $100 looks like the HF model that you evaluated. I do not know what model Mitutoyo was evaluated, but the function of the extra buttons could be a discriminator. For example, a rezeroing feature would be very useful, and worth extra money to me.
Great practical video. This is the kind of thing a home shop can use. On my budget I could have one brand name or a shop full of useful tools. Considering that brand names don't get you much in this day those with extreme budgets pushing the hype live in a different world than many of us. I can not put all my resources in a very limited array of tooling if I want to actually do any machining. Doug
I have that Harbor Freight one as my first and only micrometer. I'm very happy that you've shown it is accurate. The only issue I've had with mine is that early on it seemed to drain the battery when stored and off, so now I remove the battery every time I put it away. Mildly annoying but not a deal breaker. I'd be curious if others have had that issue or not.
That's common with those. I got tired of it and bought a Starrett.
@@jimadams8182 bummer
Hi Dale:
Does the Mitutoyo move by the standard .025" per rev of the thimble? And what is the distance moved by 1 rev of the thimble on the HF?
Regarding the one hand problem, we used a micrometer stand back in my days at the quality inspection at Fori Automation (Eurotec).
www.midwestflex.com/156-101-10.html
Being a former industrial multicraftman I appreciate the value of a good tool. I hate to but often had to abuse a tool to get the job done. Good ones hold up, the imports usually fold up. Now I am retired on a much smaller income. I wanted to include a home machine shop into my hobbies so I bought an import lathe and import milling machine. Most of my tooling is from imports. I love my new hobby. If it weren't for harbor freight and others, I wouldn't be able to afford my new hobby. Now I have more time and don't have to abuse anything and everything holds up fairly well. There are some duds out there. I love good tools but their price usually forbids me from buying very many. Most of us hobbyist make out as well as our means allow.
great point
I'm a hobbyist and I do use harbor freight tools like these. I would be nice to afford really good equipment but at this point I can not justify it. maybe someday of something I come up with is a marketable item and I have income to justify better I would do so very happily. Like you say this is a comparison for us hobbyist mainly and as one Thank you for the comparisons. It is very helpful to know what I can expect from these tools
My HF electronic mic failed after 2 months!! Also I have 3 failed HF calipers.
I'll stick with Mitutoyo My oldest one is 40 years old and is still accurate.
+carabela125
:-)
My first job out of college was at an aluminum sheet and plate mill, quality control department. We we provided micrometers and 12` tapes. I can assure you the digital is not faster once you learn to add nor more accurate. Vernier scales work fine too without a battery, just getting hard to find.
Dale, thank you for pointing out these practical differences between brands. In a perfect world, both suppliers will take note and at least consider incorporating the best features of the other.
That's like being first place in a marathon and looking back to what what running shoes last place is wearing.
When i was a carpenter i bought tools that last because down time cost money. However as a lathe newbie hobbyist you could buy 5 harbor freight mics over the years. For a hobbyist it may make sense to buy a lot of cheap tools to see if we stick with the hobby instead of paying 5 times the money for lots and lots of tools.
Good comment
I have a mitutoyo 0-1 micrometer from the 1970's (purely manual, non-digital, of course) that has a beautiful case. Black with some gold colored trim, nice cloth flocked interior. Similar to what you'd expect to see a nice watch or piece of jewelry come in.
:-)
good video.a lot of "machinists" here. if you do not own a certified set of block gauges, sit down. they are (suppose) to be your surest reference, to which you check your mics/caps to. you can all pretend that your work is .0005 all day everyday in your garage, yet a precision shop does work in a fully controlled environment for a reason. if every thing had to be manufactured at such precise levels, cars would only last 6 months. not praising HF but its two different worlds when you're a home gamer (even at high skill levels) and a professional.
Great comparison. I have a set of shars micrometers that I got as a gift and they have the ratchet in the same place as the harbor freight which I prefer greatly over the end of the knob.
I like it too.
So have you verified the 1 inch gauge block to see which micrometer was actually the most accurate?
I started out with SPI as my budget friendly tools and they have great quality and longevity, then over time upgraded to starrett, that has been the most successful venture for me in terms of accuracy and over all quality
Well done. As a home metal mangler, not a machinist, I think the harborfreight micrometer is more accurate than I am likely to be able to work to. If I did not already have a set of Craftsman micrometers I would go with the cheaper one as any mic is better than no mic and cheaper will allow me to get more tools when I need them. Thanks for a great review.
I'm glad you liked it.
One thing you may not have considered or noticed is that the HF mic is a lot thicker from one side to the other. That can keep you from being able to measure a short pin sticking out of a large plate, for instance. However, I am not really a brand name freak. Whatever works, works for me. All of my Mitutoyo mics are old school analog. The batteries are never dead when I go to use them, especially the bigger ones which get used rarely. I use a $8.00 HF electronic 6" caliper daily, and it gets rode hard and put away wet. The battery has been going about 3 years now. I guess the advice of how they die and the batteries don't last was bogus. The HF caliper even came with a spare battery, not needed yet. I also bought a spare HF caliper for another $8.00 on sale and with coupon, and it is still in the box unopened, not needed yet. Good tool, but I do not use it for precision measuring, more often for rough measuring, scribing, and comparing. Also have an assortment of dial and vernier calipers backing those up. I consider all electronic measuring tools to be throw away toys when they fail, and I find it difficult to spend hundreds on one.
+Paul Frederick I actually have two of them, both the same, one is unused. The HF p/n is 47257. The frame is stainless steel and the plastic is black. These were both bought 2-3 years ago for $9.99 each, less 25% with a coupon, plus tax. The one I am using is bulletproof so far...
IP rating is what separates them. We have went through several harbor freights due to coolant contamination. I have Mitutoyo's from 6 years ago that still read perfectly. Depends on the environment!
I think a case can be made to keep both on hand. Use the cheap one for everyday use and the good one when it's important. Drop the cheap one on big deal but the good one would be a heartbreak.
That the way I use them.
Great video and I appreciate the knowledge on the subject. I'm a locksmith and for years I've used the Tumico thickness dial mic that I inherited from my grandfather for measuring pins to decode interchangeable cores, etc... Just recently I went to use it and it completely locked up. I know it wasn't dropped, I have NO idea why it's locked up. I'm currently looking for a pro who can fix it (as I don't want to risk making it worse)... but in the mean time I NEED to be able to take measurements... I went down to HF today and got this exact model. Now honestly, I don't need to take measurements to .00005, for what I need .0005 is fine, but it was on sale... Got it home and tried it out and so far so good.... I don't have high hopes that it'll last 60+ years like the Tumico but it's nice to know that I got at least a "fair" to "pretty good" tool for the money.
HI Derek, I know a lot of people don't want to admit that is a good tool, But for the price I think its an excellent one. :-)
if we are making a micrometer that doesnt rely on the screw thread pitch with no barrel scale....it could have a much coarser pitch to make it faster to operate...something for future development, or a spring loaded lever?
You are exactly right about that Jusb. Digital measuring tools that used to use the older screw pitch mechanisms now use electronic principles:
www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/calipers/how-does-a-digital-caliper-work/
I like that you always keep your little finger crooked through the frame; you drop those things a LOT less often that way.
I wonder that you don't roll the thimble against your forearm for fast change of the opening. This was a trick shown me by my grandfather a long time ago, and I've seen it done by other old machinists. The only thing you have to be careful of is when you are approaching the end of travel - you really don't want to slam the spindle and anvil together. That's a good way to bend the frame and put the anvil out of parallel with the spindle.
That motionless (in and out) ratchet thimble on the HF mike seems really useful. Now if someone would just make a mike to that design out of a sturdier (and more æsthetically pleasing) material.
Will the small dial make it screw in faster?
I have a number of Mitutoyo measurement tools that are soon to be 50 years old. Doubt that HF stuff would survive that long. Retired now, so they are toys in my garage, but earned their keep when I was a prototype machinist. Have Starrett and Brown and Sharp. Good stuff. Actually have HF calipers. Only trust them to ID drills as they have a fraction setting and I think decimal.
I think the Harbor freight micrometer will most likely stop working long before the Mitutoyo, but the accuracy is very surprising for the price. My first micrometer was the one from Harbor freight. I recently got a set of Starrett 436.1 mics and the HF one is 100% as accurate. And' I would think that the reason the spindle moves in and out more slowly on the HF is that it has more threads per inch than the Mitutoyo, which I think would only add to its accuracy.
+vespadano1979
Thanks for your comment.
Well you asked Dale.
For me, the Mits, almost everything I have for measuring equipment is there brand. For gauging I still rely on Starrett for those. Screw pitch gauges, feeler gauges etc. I don't know about right now, but even a year or two ago the Starrett digital equipment was judged by most over on PM as inferior to the Mitutoyo. And battery life? I get an easy 4+ years out of the proper SR-44's. Want a really good set of digital calipers. Try the 6" Mit solar powered. Finest calipers I've had in my hands by far including the Mit analogs. And no dead battery's unless you work in the dark.
Mitutoyo boxes. (sigh) they ought to hang there heads in shame. You are so right Dale. I bought a Mit digital indicator.The one that's powered with a wall wart. 543-552A Inside the cardboard box there's a paper thin (no joke) blow molded container that has some really rough shapes to take the indicator, wall wart and manual. Your 1" Mit mike box is a Rolls Royce quality improvement over this. At best it's a good method of protecting the indicator from shipping damage. In no way is it any kind of storage container. The indicator is the very best I've used, but the box? This just isn't the type of indicator you leave out all the time. It needs a damn storage box Mitutoyo. Oh yeah, and when I did very politely email there head office about this problem, I got exactly zero response back.
Not sure about that horrible fright mike Dale, but my mitutoyo's come with a test certificate that shows a graph of where the few really minor inaccuracy's are. But I'll freely admit $35 is a steal. IMO good quality tools tend to get looked after. There accuracy and lifespan is usually lengthened by that. Cheap tools no matter how good are used for about everything. So side by side in my shop the Mits will be and will stay accurate for much longer.
But good video as always Dale, apology's for the rant. It really did feel good tho. :-)
Great comparison to this two micrometers, I have the Harbor Freight one (the one with 3 buttons) and I like it very much, thanks for sharing this video.
I personally think it comes down to just what the hobby / home machinist is working on, i.e. the wife's blender or maybe something on the car vs a machinist (machine shop) who may have a contract requiring a very close tolerance.
You certainly don't need a $200.00 dollar piece of equipment to work on the wife's blender or any other home project(s,) unless that will make you feel warm and fuzzy to own the high price equipment.
Not meant to be a put down to either piece of equipment, just how I see the different situations, i.e., night vs day.
Thanks for the video, and like you said, it will be up to the viewer to assess his/her needs.
Great comments
I needed a 0-1 recently. I looked at hf. Looked at others. I ended getting a very nice Fowler from ebay with certification for 15 bucks. Heat covered. Has the ratchet like the HF did instead of like the mitutoyo. Testing shows it to be right in spec. Just an idea for some of you viewers for the future.
Dale I love your comparison type videos. I have to admit that I use off brand or cheap tooling as well, but they have their place as you well know. When you're working the part down to size that is really where the cheap tool has it's place because it is used over and over again and is tossed about in the process. I use the Name Brand tool for the Final Inspection on the part and thus it is usually only used at the end and then put back in it's box and put away. If I drop or break the cheap tool, sure its a bummer but I didn't lose the tool I really care about.
Great Video and I hope you do more of these.
Cheers,
John
You and I work the same way😀
For someone who has only an occasional need for certain specialized tools, such as myself working on home projects, I've saved hundreds of dollars buying Harbor Freight tools. On the other hand, if my job, reputation or an expensive piece of equipment were to depend on a tool's accuracy, I wouldn't even consider walking into Harbor Freight's doors.
coffeemaddan What if it's a revolving door? Question. If a revolving door rotates in a counterclockwise direction as you are walking into it here in the US, does it rotate in a clockwise direction in England since they drive to the left instead of to the right? :)
coffeemaddan I know that the water in a toilet bowl will spin in the opposite direction down under, so you may have something there.
Well, now that this issue has been cleared away by the use of the Coriolis flush. I'm really glad that the Coriolis effect doesn't suggest that we cease to use toilets in protest of the distribution of misinformation given to countless numbers of science students through the years, including myself.
Now if we could politely convince the world that driving with the steering wheel on the left side of a vehicle allows the majority of the world's population, which is right handed, the ability to shift gears with their favored right hand. We no longer need to ride on the left to keep our right hand available to swing a weapon, as was necessary when riding upon a horse long ago. Having the steering on the left would also standardize the rules of the road when crossing certain countries' boarders.
As for revolving doors, again those that are in the majority of being right handed, will naturally prefer a door that rotates in a counterclockwise direction. This would be due to the fact that right handed people have a natural tendency to bear to the right and to push on a door with their favored hand.
For those people throughout the world who don't have toilets, there will be no experimentation with the flow of water. They will just have to accept the information that was kindly provided, as I too will concede that I was duped many years ago.
Agreed that HF does have it's place. I got a 3/4" drive socket set.. did the job, and I have it for the future. I've only used one or two sockets maybe 3x.
For something that see's occasional use. it is, what it is. A lot less of an investment vs. Snap-on or Mac, etc...
Generalizing: HF is good for one time use / consumable tools.
As a professional engineer/tech, I have much better stuff in my boxes to rely on.
John Galt Totally agreed. Their tools are not for the purpose of abuse in an environment where they would be exposed to constant commercial use. I sure wish that they would make a small beam or dial type torque wrench that would read from 0-30 lbs/in. These are what is required to test the pinion bearing preload on an automotive type of rear differential. I had to send off for one and it wasn't cheap. I'll only use it a couple of times a year, if that often. They do have a "click" type of torque wrench in lbs/in, but their range of calibration is too high.
Harbor Freight has their place in the tool world. The problem is that people seem to forget that in most cases you get what you pay for. I was a professional mechanic for over 45 years and I used and still have tools that my father used during his career. They are now close to 100 years old.
Great video & comments. For what it's worth, I pretty much use the HF grade tools daily and have relegated my more accurate and expensive tools to the " second order calibration standards" tool box.
I consider the HF style tools as disposable. If one drops or is otherwise compromised, I'll breakout the Starrets or B&S tools and check out the compromised tool. Pitching and replacing a HF tool is much less expensive (and easier) than replacing or repairing a high end tool. I had a mentor that taught me that part of "using the right tool for the job" included its accuracy & repeatability characteristics. Why use a $100 tool on a job (and possible break it) when a $10 dollar tool will yield the same results just as fast - if you accidently drop the tool, and you will, which one do you want to have to replace?
Most of the stuff I work on, I only have to hold to a few thou at most. When I have to do high accuracy work, I may break out the good stuff (and work much more carefully but slower) ;)
Thanks for watching
Many times what matters is repeat-ability not absolute accuracy.
That being said the HF look surprisingly nice. Thanks
+Daniel Wahl
good point
I was at HF with my boy and he was needing tooling for his new lathe and mill we unboxed the 3 Digital mikes they had and all three would not close with the friction knob and would bind, I ended up with a Mitutoyo for about $10 more on ebay auction and my boy bought an Igageing digital mike which is not much more then the HF and performs great. Without going outside I believe my Mitutoyo has the friction thumb drive on the same place as the HF.
+Ed Ginsberg
HF Tool are alway a gamble
This is a fun intro but for me you did not test what you are actually paying for with the Mitutoyo. Run the batteries down to 'almost' dead, then repeat your measuring experiment. Most of the cheap mics and calipers start to wander when they get low voltages, rather than just turning off. Who knows how many false measurements will be taken before the screen dims out and you know the battery is dead. The other test is to take both, put new batteries in, and stick them in a drawer for a year. The cheap electronics pull almost full current even when off (that's how they remember zero) vs the higher end units that hardly draw any power when off. If the unit is rarely used then either the user replaces the battery every other time or stores it with the battery out (as I have to do with my i-gaging stuff). Of course if people going into it know to bulk buy batteries and replace often then there is not as much of a issue.
Fixed, thanks.
I came into this observation through a different door. I discovered if I left the battery in on some $20+ calipers, they kept drawing power with it off. I always pop it out when I am done.
You can buy the mititoyo with the other style thimble?
Can you show us mitutoyo and Fowler Sylvac Instruments
I have a collection of both high quality expensive and lower quality budget measuring instruments,most of the work i do does not require super precise targets so i use the budget tools most of the time which are perfectly sufficient for the task at hand.I take out the Mitutoyo's for the jobs that need that confident measurement.
There has been (Like many other machinists have had) where i dropped calipers or had something topple over on to a mic and kill it so to replace it with another cheapy one is not a problem......So my general rule in my home workshop for the expensive instruments is if i don't need to use them i don't.
Great point of view.
How long will it last??? I would still go with Mitutoyo and if the money is a thing used is still better..
To me, the most important question is, did harbor freight send that to you, or is that one off the shelf? They could have sent you the best one they have.
Many thanks Dale.
For those interested I picked up the IP65 mitutoyo mic from a guy on ebay ideal precision for 126 delivered. Not a fake either and was exactly as described BNIB. Totally worth the cash IMO considering these things will more than likely still be reading accurately when I am in the dirt.
Thanks for Sharing😀
for a budget oriented home machinist, I think $35 for HF is the way to go. I really like the budget vs high dollar tool comparisons. This and the last one answered my question as you'll always wonder in the back of your mind on how your cheap tools measure up
Great comment
I suspect that WalMart, HF and others like them are successful based in part on the 'good enough' principle; they sell stuff that is 'good enough' for the price. For most of us, price is the bottom line, whether we throw longevity, reliability, durability etc into the calculation or not. Thanks for taking the time to create, edit & post this vid; really useful info. 👍👍👍
Thanks for your comment. I think your right.
I'm shocked Dale. You spelled "you're" wrong. We are talking about accuracy here aren't we? . . . lol
How much faster is it really when you have to get two hands on it Everytime? If your situated with one hand and need to change the whole position of yourself and whatever else to get a second hand on it.
Totally agree about the Mitutoyo boxes. Mine are all horribly warped.
My experience... They're probably made in the same factory in China. I have a Starrett. It's identical to the Mitutoyo. From the ENCO catalog picture it looks the same as the SPI. All 3 are imports. Computer automated manufacturing and digital micro controllers have eliminated the differences we used to judge these tools by. Little old men in Switzerland with magnifiers on their noses no longer file the precision into gear racks. They're pumped out on their Chinese made CNC tools just like in China. They run equivalent software. The differences are what your video highlighted -- materials and functionality. Both bounce the same when you drop them on the shop floor. The HF plastic breaks. The Mitu metal bounces so you can pick it up and keep using it (is that a good thing?).
That's an interesting point of view. I'll have to think about it.
Totally agree, precision is not a hard thing to manufacture these days
How about the quality of the steel? Quality tool steel is a closely guarded secret. Surface finish finish matters a lot on these, you need specially made grinding machines to get into some of the areas. Think they have them? How about the quality of the tool used to make those threads on the mic? The quality of the insert used to cut the thread, how many it was used for before being changed out, etc.
You're just saying this because you never held a pair of Mitutoyo and HF calipers in your hands or even something like a $40 iGaging calipers in your hands. The difference is night and day. Grit like sand movement that returns to zero not every time or smooth as butter that always comes back to zero.
If your a person that has to supply a shop with tools I would buy the harbor freight. Also keep the a Mitotoyo one around for QC. I would guess over time the Harbor freight ones break down. Good comparison tho.
i bought the harbor freight one because I'm a mechanic and only use it occasionally when doing engine rebuilds. if I used it more though i probably would have gotten the mitutoyo just because of overall build quality. however I'm still really happy with it none the less
Funniest thing is that’s a old style mitutoyo probably mid to late 90s, still fine after 20 plus years.
I’d be surprised if the other one lasts 2 or 3 years at most
I've bought a few HF measuring tools over the years and my experience it that they don't really hold up that well.
On the other hand i have some of their wrenches, ratchets and pliers that have held up to daily use for over a decade.
For $35 having both scales SAE and Metric already is a huge gift. If you wanted that to have on classic analog ones you would need two micrometers one SAE and other Metric but those are two different tools the require calibration. Anyways yes Mitutoyo has a reputation and build quality and if you have one you would think you know more than others but its just a lie to make yourself feel more confident. Same way there are people buying huge trucks but never ever transporting anything..
I guess you have the advantage with those gauges, if you buy something like HF and dont have a reference its hard to trust the measurement.
Dale, I have the same one. I have grown to just love the ratchet position. In comparison it is absolutely spot on with my new Starrett...out to 5 place! I too am partial to Mitutoyo stuff but, I gotta tell ya...that HF is a great deal. Thanks for the great videos! -Tom
how about Shars? do you guys think Shars' tools are reliable? calipers, micrometers etc.
+1111MrSimon
I don't own any stars tools do I'm not qualified to answer your question . sorry
Harbor Freight can get the job done now and again, but there is a reason you will find name brands in a fab shop. Reliability. I'll buy a few odds and ends like wire wheels for my grinder at HF but not grinding disks, etc.
I have two Mitutoyo calipers that are over 15 years old and a half dozen cheaper units. After 5 years, all the cheaper units have given up their ghosts. The Mitutoyo units are still working great. My advice to the home hobbiest is to buy once for something you will use forever and don't waste money trying to save a hundred bucks.
your comment is correct for the use for a "home machinist".i could understand using the harbor freight stuff in your garage but if im gonna use any type of tool to make a living be it a set of mechanics tools or a set of machinist tools im certaintly not gonna make my first stop at harbor freight.i defy anyone to watch a nascar or nhra event and point out any team using a nice big set of" U.S. General" tools which are harbor freights top brand.
+toolmaker19
Agree with your comment :-)
I completely agree with you on the boxes. Almost every Mitutoyo box I've seen is all warped and flimsy, not to mention they just feel so cheap. I don't want to sound like a fanboy of Starrett, but they certainly make the nicest cases by far. I mean if your spending so much on a precision instrument that will last many lifetimes, can't they supply you with a decent case to protect that investment. I refuse to keep the Mits i own in the boxes and have resorted to foam drawer liners cut to fit each Mic.
Dale. for me an instrument should be designed in appearance to show that you own a piece of equipment, not a plastic knock off. However the HF accuracy was right on the dot. I'm a fan of quality.
A few more selling factors are not only battery life but also, when the voltage starts to drop off the Mitutoyo's will tell you. The cheapo's I have come into contact with do not. This is a BIG deal because of how digital mic's measure, low voltage can throw off the actual measurement and give a bad reading. The price of entry for the expensive ones is true to form consistency.
well that was conclusive! what is the battery life like?
Mine HF had been going for 3 years
The great debate seems to be exclusively for hobbyists, for professionals its a given. Also conciser these three points: 1- if you use the same micrometer to measure mating features then accuracy is more or less irrelevant. 2- show me a design that a hobbyist would use that requires sub-thousandths tolerances, even the sliding/press threshold is near 0.001". 3- HF's selection stops at the basic, Mitutoyo has all kinds of special features available (non-rotating spindles, various grades, form factors, ect.)
Sorry I don't get it but, it must be a pet-peeve of more than a few people about the Box - make a prototype, have china start banging them out, and sell them!
Interesting! I've never seen a HF digital micrometer. I use their calipers all the time b/c I'm always dropping the darned things and would hate to be dropping a $100 item. For precision (to the level I'm able to achieve) I break out my antique manual micrometers. If I ever decide to invest in a digital micrometer, you've given me something to think about. Thanks!
I'm glade you liked the video