I do not think the new 2024 MDQS has power vents either. Will get ours delivered in March. Did you have a video somewhere that you used to install a powered one?
I have not done an official video on the actual install to swap a roof vent. The biggest pain is just getting the old dicor sealant off without tearing the roof membrane. I remember it took me a solid 30-45 min just going slow and cautious. Otherwise it's extremely straight forward removing the old and putting in the new. I don't understand why they still don't put a powered open/close in the new ones either. There must be a reason I'm missing :)
@@AdventureRocksThanks for the quick response! Definitely something I will want to change out; not so much for me but for the wife. If it’s not automatic or powered, I can see her “forgetting” lol
Wow; I just bought a 2024 Durango Gold 382MBQ which is the same floor plan as yours. Definitely going to do some of these upgrades on it. Also curious if you put any sliding drawers in for the cabinetry. As well as how you are filtering your water? We were considering doing a clearsource filter with a water softener for the outside, and a fully contained RO filter for the inside connected to the fridge water dispenser/Ice cubes. I will need to figure out how to set that up and definitely not as handy as you appear to be. Definitely a learning curve to RV life!
Thank you! Love the Durango 382MBQ...that deck on the rear! Jayco has a patented drinking jug/pump system so that takes place of filtered system...pros and cons of course :) th-cam.com/video/YSlJXLKExOo/w-d-xo.html
Many smart ideas. I thought replacing a screw with a handle was clever. I am trying to find someone who has put safety grab bars in their RV shower and by the toilet. Any idea who might have done this?
Thank you. I have not seen the safety bars, but I think as long as you can find solid framing in the wall, should be no issues. Worst case if you cannot find a solid member, you could always put a piece of hardwood on the outside of the wall to bridge the gap between the wall "2x4s" and then put grab bars directly on that. Definitely want to make sure they are solid so I would not recommend anchors or anything like that, only solid wood + screws for safety. I would think a handyman or RV dealer/service center would be qualified to help in your area if needed.
Sure, glad to help. Here's a more detailed video on washer/dryer combo too: th-cam.com/video/7j8571G2FDU/w-d-xo.html The one in my video is disconintued (bought in Summer 2021)...they kinda change the models every year or so I guess, but the replacement is even better on the dimensions. Here are models: LG Ventless Washer Dryer Combo WM3555HWA (updated model) amzn.to/3GhudUW LG Ventless Washer Dryer Combo WM3488HW (shown in video) amzn.to/39R1nP9
Wow, quite impressed with everything you did nice craftsmanship. I just had rotater cuff surgery and I found your video on your Ram truck. Now I watching all your video's. Good job on everything.
Yes, it is LG WM3488HW. It looks like it was discontinued, but if I'm tracking right the newer replacement model seems to be WM3555HWA. It looks like on the dimensions that the replacement WM3555HWA is actually quite a bit shallower on the depth, which is great news as the depth is the dimension that was most limiting in my closet with the door. So even better. I have been nothing but impressed with the LG especially on the drying cycle. The list on mine was also $1599 if I recall, but seemed like all the stores would discount it to $1099 or $1199 at the same time. It was very hard to get back in July 2021...and it took 3x attempts as the first 2x arrived damaged in warehouse. Think it was September by the time I actually got it. Would definitely buy it all over again though.
@@AdventureRocks ok. I seen the 355HWA during my search. I'm glad to hear your impressed with the machine, as I really don't want to do the stacking unit, although I was worried when I read a cycle was around 3 hours to complete. So just to be sure, the dryer really does a good job? I see you have the tray under it.... Was that special to your machine, or just a standard tray to prevent water on the floor Incase of a leak? Where did you get that as well? Thanks much for the help..
@@kreutztimothy Sure, no problem. Yes, I've been very impressed with the drying capabilities on the LG. Every ventless/condensing dryer that I've used before would always leave clothes damp and take sometimes even over 4+ hrs for full cycle. The LG is much faster and I'd say about 95-100% as dry as a vented dryer gets them (depending on fabric type). I've been very impressed with it. I think it is built a lot better compared to the other more common RV brands. I like to put the drain/drip tray just as a precaution. I used this one here: www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-6-2424L-24-x-24-A-C-Secondary-Condensate-Drain-Pan ...I did have to trim the edges of pan on sides/back using a oscilating multi-tool as it has a lip that protrudes bigger than the 24x24 needed. I like that pan has a true drain plumbed on it, which I oriented to the right side where there is an access panel already cut from Jayco. Then I elbowed out of the drain to a 1" or 3/4" vinyl braided hose, which I then ran along the same chaise as the PVC drain along right/passenger wall (carpet bump out), under dresser and down through floor below right where the Equalizer jack is located, leaving a short stub by jack that is barely visible from outside (so basically all concealed under dresser and in single tank propane bay). That way if any water ever would drain, it has a clear path to escape outside the RV. And because of the way the washer spins at such a high RPM, I added several wear layers where the feet rest using Gorilla tape in the pan, so that over time the motion while spinning won't wear a soft spot in the pan with the carpet flooring in closet. Leveling the feet was also tricky too. A custom galavanized pan would work too, assuming it is sealed/leak proof. I also made a cut-out in rear closet wall for the hot and cold supply to line-up to enable me to push mine further back, since there's plenty of hose/void space behind closet wall. Then I brought them back in along right side of wall up to the actual supply. If the new model is indeed much shallower, you may not need to do that at all. Hope all that makes sense.
@@AdventureRocks I couldn't have explained it all better...I was following everything you were describing, perfectly! I really like the fact you didn't waste the time plumbing the leak pan to the plumbing, and instead, right out of the rig! Brilliant idea! 👍 Thanks again!
Great video, thanks. Definitely interested in the outside cameras mod. Did the underbelly lighting, did another popular loft to midbunk mod to improve airflow. .. good community support for our coaches! We have a 2021 Northpoint 377. We did a mod related to the coaches round/white ceiling registers. When you remove one, you’ll notice there’s an airgap between the white ceiling board and the grey raceway duct. That gap is the attic space. The fact those ceiling registers do not have an airtight fit, when the air pressurizes the ductwork, air escapes into that attic space. I removed the registers, used pieces of foil tape to go around the hole and seal that open attic air gap. Did this for all registers and it significantly increased airflow throughout the coach.
Thanks for all the mods! Adding the puck light in the shower was it pretty simple to fish a wire over from the other light? Also did you happen to do a video of switching out the max air fan? Thanks again!
Correct, the trusses run parallel to path of new light in shower, so no obstacles. I don't think I even needed a rigid fish tape as the wire I used was rigid enough to just slide across inside ceiling. I had to buy a 6-pack, but here's the exact same fixture that was in mine already: amzn.to/3O65PrA I have not done a video on switching fan out. The hardest part was really just scraping off all the existing dicor sealant on roof...getting it off without tearing roof membrane...just tedious. I like the model with the built-in cover/vent so you don't have to add one later. Has standard remote, etc. - amzn.to/3yZmCse
@@AdventureRocks thanks for the info! I already have bought that exact fan and attempting to put it in this weekend! I definitely love having a light in the shower so I have a rechargeable power strip in there with motion but I definitely will add the light.. I figured that was the case but I was a little gun shy about putting a hole and not being able to get access to the other light! Thanks again.
Where can I get the locks for the front generator/battery storage area. I like you do not like these areas easily accessible to others and keyed the same. Wow, you are awesome. Thanks for sharing all you improvements. Al
Thank you. Yes, I got the matching locks direct from Bauer (vendor Jayco uses) and for my unit I needed 1x SCI cam lock 1.75 long (for gen) and 2x SCI cam lock 1.125 long (for 2x propane). Some may not like the propane locked for code/safety reasons, but I'm comfortable with the risks personally. You just specify your key ID (engraved on your key) and then Bauer will key them up for you automatically. Here's link: bauerproducts.com/product/sci-cam-lock/
@@AdventureRocks thank you so much for your reply. I wish I could drop off my Pinnacle for you to do so many of the improvements you’ve done with yours. You’ve got some very significant skills. Thanks for your videos. Al
@@AdventureRocks One last question. Do you have a TH-cam video as it relates to the antenna. We have a very expensive 5th Wheel but feel we have the same old technology we had with our previous MH, actually our 6 year older MH provided us better service. I’ve been looking for some help understanding this new unit but I find nothing. Your understanding of the Pinnacle is something I’m looking for. Thanks for your help. Al
@@althomes8517 I have not yet done a video on the antenna yet. I have noticed reception isn't the best, or at least compared to some of my previous rigs. But, I haven't done anything yet to try and improve it. I had the best reception on one of those old-school crank up antennas on a previous rig.
Hi Jay. I’m having the same issue with the front cap LED strip lighting that you had. The new blue LED lighting strip came today. Thanks for the info. But I’m going to need a new plastic cover. Mine has shrunk 3/8” and is now too short. And try as I may, I can’t get it clean enough. Do you have a source for this or is this something to get from Jayco. I really enjoy all of your videos. TIA
Great question! I think the product below is a close match...profile looks very similar. I have NOT tried the tube/channel myself as I reused mine, but it shows a max width of 10mm inside, and I believe the LED strip itself is closer to 8mm so that should allow it to slide in. If you end up ordering it you'll have to report back how it works :) amzn.to/3xSelVL
Love all the updates! I would like to learn how you put the blue lights under the frame and tied them into the BMPro system. Also, would like to learn how you made the access panel slide. You are way more handy than me, so I need to see how things are done before I attempt. Thanks for the help! P.S. Where did you find the light strip for the front cap. Ours went out in the middle.
Here is the link to the blue "COB" (high density) LED strip that I used to replace front cap: amzn.to/3CSc4eH ...it was a little tricky getting it to slide in to the existing neon tube. I believe I had to use a little lubricant to make it easier. You can of course cut to length at one of the notated marks on the strip.
Thanks for the info! I look forward to those videos. It is so nice to have a fellow Pinnacle owner with your knowledge and abilities share upgrades via video. Your effort and productivity is much appreciated! The only issue is my wife keeps asking why I’m ordering so much from Amazon…LOL!
Great idea. With the BMPRO JAYCOMMAND smart RV system it controls the HVAC already, so it's all integrated under one system with lights, motors, etc. But, the smart thermostat would be a nice upgrade for a unit with just regular analog controls for sure.
Hi I loved your video of mart. Keep up the good work. I did have a couple of questions on where did you purchase your LED strip lights for your storage compartment and the carpetless slide wear layer did you purchase them anywhere in particular.
Yes, mine got water inside and the original LEDs went bad. Apparently it's pretty common and I didn't even think to check the seals on either end beforehand. In the process of replacing I decided to carry the blue light theme forward and so bought a blue strip instead of the original warm white. Basically you re-use the outer "neon-style" tube and the plastic chrome end pieces. Then you just slide the new LED strip inside the tube and re-wire, good to go. I made sure to seal it up with silicone on either end so it doesn't go bad again. Here's the blue LED strip I used (they have to be a special high density strip for it to look right): amzn.to/3JwCRQi And, if you want to replace with the same warm white color, here it is: amzn.to/3IARCAf
in the event you were camping and the hard wire surge protector went down can you bypass it temporarily till you get the replacement part? Carrying a temporary surge protector till you could get the hardwired one repaired
th-cam.com/video/yXfiVdz4adI/w-d-xo.html is a more detailed video on just surge if you're interested in full details, but basically the best practice is to not cut/shorten your existing 50A/4-pole bundle during install, and instead buy an extra 5-7' bundle to go between surge outlet and supply point (transfer switch or breaker panel) so that you can easily disconnect the surge at campsite in the event if total failure with just basic tools such an allen key and flat blade screw driver. Probably about a 5-10 min job in the field to undo it. Hope that makes sense.
Interested in the wiring changes needed for; splitting the bedroom, bathroom toe kick lighting and how to split the awning, step lights. You do great videos.
@@pvf1799 Thank you! I'm working on one this week for the exteriror awning/step/downlights wiring and plan to have it released this Sunday evening. I'll add the toe kick/accent lighting to list for future videos as well. Thank you for the idea.
Great video! Thank you. We have the same model Pinnacle as you. We are having trouble with our slide floor linoleum curing up. We tried using some Velcro to hold it down but it didn’t work. Are you heard of anyone else having that issue with the Pinnacle floor? If so what was the solution.
You know I have same issue more recently in front of the recliners, but I think it was partially my fault as I closed it up for a while and the floor ran into a bench I had stored in middle there on floor, causing it to be stored in a curled/upward position for about a month between use. Prior I don't think I had the issue. I have noticed with the "flush floor" design it has kinda a ridge at the seam so it naturally wants to curl up. Otherwise on my dinnette side it isn't curling. I might try a heat gun on low setting next and just see what happens. You'll have to report back if you find success with another method.
I ordered mine with the trailer TMPS factory installed. It's my understanding that at minimum you deed to install the receiver in addition to having the truck programmed before you can pair TMPS sensors. I'm not sure how difficult that is, but I'd imagine it is possible.
Hi, Love all your videos! Great info, details, AND descriptions of stuff. Not too wordy, just right. I would like more specific info on your basement moryride slider installation, and where did you get those grey heavy duty totes? I need some of those! Thank you so much!
Thank you! I'm actually working on a storage video to be released soon where I'll go over it in more detail. The containers are from Uline "Straight Wall Containers" and I absolutely love them for RV storage. They are a bit pricey $$, but I've used them now on 2 different RVs. They stack with different sizes and are super tough, so should be the last containers you buy. Here is link to the Uline page. I got a mix of 9.5" and 14.5" tall along with a couple 5" on my wet bay side. All 24x15 L x W: www.uline.com/BL_190/Straight-Wall-Containers
Hi Jay, on the Lithium Batteries upgrade what did you to need to do with the converter since it's set up from Jayco to charge lead acid batteries? I think I saw something in a previous video where you said there is a switch that you can simply change the function without changing anything? Is that correct? Thanks for the reply!
Yes, if you have the Progressive Dynamics converter/charger panel, there is a small cut out visible with the lid/flap open. You kinda have to get down on your knees as it is recessed in there a good bit, but it should have a tiny toggle switch to flip on the actual circuit board. Think it's labeled something like "LI" and "LA" if I recall. Just flip the switch and you're good to go :)
Yes, the BMPro system has logic built-in to detect when the channels are drawing too many amps. I forget the exact error message you'll get (somewhat generic), but I did have a significantly higher/more dense LED strip initially and discovered I needed to step down to a slightly lower amp draw for the down lighting strip to to make it work - amzn.to/3w7IYGS
I'm planning on doing this mod when I put my underbody lights on. I want them on a separate switch than both awning lights. If I'm over amps, I'll just add a relay to power the underbody lights, then the only draw that the BMPro sees is the relay...
Do you have trouble getting to the SRE-4000 wet bolts? I noticed they are facing the tire and very hard to get at. I just ordered a 90 deg lube fitting. I’m hoping I can get to the wet bolt without having to take off the tire.
Yes, I have had same problem. I actually greased when I took tires off last time. Probably would be easier if facing inward. You'll have to report back and let us know if the right angle adapter makes it easier.
Finally had a chance to try the Slippery Pete - 90 Degree Grease Gun Coupler Snaps onto Grease Fittings in Tight Spaces. The 90 Degree fitting allowed me to grease the SRE-4000 wet bolts. Next time I’ll need to take pressure off the suspension by jacking it up in order to get grease completely through each of the bolts. Over all I would recommend the Slippery Pete fitting.
I have a 32rlts. Do you think 4 strips for under lighting is enough? How did you connect them together and did you hardwire so that you can turn them on with the jcommand
I did hardwire mine into the JayCommand system. Here's link to more detailed video: th-cam.com/video/iLNw1ytPaeU/w-d-xo.html I actually joined awning 1 & 2 under Awning 2 channel, and then left the Awning 1 & Step channel for just step and downlighting. However, there is an amperage limit per channel as I found and I could only get 2 strips for front lower I-beam (if it draws too many amps, BMPro will throw error message and turn off channel). So, I believe if you want 4 strips to cover full length, you'll need to skip the JayCommand channels and just make a new analog switch altogether. But, the strips I got were 16 feet, so I think you'd cover pretty much your full underside with 4x strips.
Thank you your videos are awesome! I’m actually going to do the watchdog search protector install as well as well as the front LED light which had burned out. Thanks so much for the detail
@@AdventureRocks off topic I have another question for you. When you remove the decal off the front cap did it leave any residue or impression or shadow? Also any advice or tips on how you removed it? Also the extra switch in the bathroom when you install the new fan and didn't need the switch anymore what did you do with that switch? I have put in another light above the shower as you did and wanted to wire into that switch however the second switch which we had used originally for the fan is a toggle switch and doesn't work to wire into for a light
@@davids88keys Sure, glad to help. I removed my front decal about 4 months or so after it had been manufacturered and original decal applied presumably. It came off in hundreds of pieces, but it was pretty clean. Only minimal adhesive residue left behind around edges and that came off easily with some mineral spirits or WD-40. The tedious part was just peeling it as it kept tearing. Maybe 30-40 min peeling it off and another 20-30 with solvent and then washing/sealing? I noticed an extremely faint difference up close between black paint under decal immediately following removal, but after a few months later I cannot tell at all...so maybe the sun/UV rays just needed to blend it. On the bathroom switch I also had the same problem after swapping out fan. It kinda bugged me that I had a left over unused switch, so I swapped it out with a dual gang dimmer switch (amzn.to/3LwuR2Q). That solved the problem and gave nice option to dim lights if desired, which is kinda nice with the extra lumens in there. Anyway I'll put link to that detailed video below on switch, but if any other questions just let me know. th-cam.com/video/4PmivOUGveM/w-d-xo.html
I do not think the new 2024 MDQS has power vents either. Will get ours delivered in March. Did you have a video somewhere that you used to install a powered one?
I have not done an official video on the actual install to swap a roof vent. The biggest pain is just getting the old dicor sealant off without tearing the roof membrane. I remember it took me a solid 30-45 min just going slow and cautious. Otherwise it's extremely straight forward removing the old and putting in the new. I don't understand why they still don't put a powered open/close in the new ones either. There must be a reason I'm missing :)
@@AdventureRocksThanks for the quick response! Definitely something I will want to change out; not so much for me but for the wife. If it’s not automatic or powered, I can see her “forgetting” lol
Wow; I just bought a 2024 Durango Gold 382MBQ which is the same floor plan as yours. Definitely going to do some of these upgrades on it. Also curious if you put any sliding drawers in for the cabinetry. As well as how you are filtering your water? We were considering doing a clearsource filter with a water softener for the outside, and a fully contained RO filter for the inside connected to the fridge water dispenser/Ice cubes. I will need to figure out how to set that up and definitely not as handy as you appear to be. Definitely a learning curve to RV life!
Thank you! Love the Durango 382MBQ...that deck on the rear! Jayco has a patented drinking jug/pump system so that takes place of filtered system...pros and cons of course :)
th-cam.com/video/YSlJXLKExOo/w-d-xo.html
What is the newer LG model washer/dryer combo you spoke of? Thank you.
Yes, it is LG Ventless Washer Dryer Combo WM3555HWA
amzn.to/3GhudUW
Did you do any videos of you upfitting your underneath lighting strips?
Great idea! Not yet, but I'll plan to do it soon. Here are the specific strips I ended up using in meantime: amzn.to/3w7IYGS
Many smart ideas. I thought replacing a screw with a handle was clever. I am trying to find someone who has put safety grab bars in their RV shower and by the toilet. Any idea who might have done this?
Thank you. I have not seen the safety bars, but I think as long as you can find solid framing in the wall, should be no issues. Worst case if you cannot find a solid member, you could always put a piece of hardwood on the outside of the wall to bridge the gap between the wall "2x4s" and then put grab bars directly on that. Definitely want to make sure they are solid so I would not recommend anchors or anything like that, only solid wood + screws for safety. I would think a handyman or RV dealer/service center would be qualified to help in your area if needed.
@@AdventureRocks Good point. The shower backs up to a closet so I could put the reinforcement there. Thanks for taking the time to answer.
Because of your review of the pinnacle 37' MDQX I am buying one in June thx brah...keep em coming.
Glad to hear it! Thank you for the kind words.
Do you mind sharing the LG model number of the ventless washer/drier combo unit. Considering one for my rig…many thanks Carl
Sure, glad to help. Here's a more detailed video on washer/dryer combo too: th-cam.com/video/7j8571G2FDU/w-d-xo.html
The one in my video is disconintued (bought in Summer 2021)...they kinda change the models every year or so I guess, but the replacement is even better on the dimensions. Here are models:
LG Ventless Washer Dryer Combo WM3555HWA (updated model)
amzn.to/3GhudUW
LG Ventless Washer Dryer Combo WM3488HW (shown in video)
amzn.to/39R1nP9
Wow, quite impressed with everything you did nice craftsmanship. I just had rotater cuff surgery and I found your video on your Ram truck. Now I watching all your video's. Good job on everything.
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words. Hope your recovery goes as smooth as possible.
Hey Jay, what was the model is the LG washer you installed? I can't find an LG that looks like yours, that would fit into our rig. Thanks
Yes, it is LG WM3488HW. It looks like it was discontinued, but if I'm tracking right the newer replacement model seems to be WM3555HWA. It looks like on the dimensions that the replacement WM3555HWA is actually quite a bit shallower on the depth, which is great news as the depth is the dimension that was most limiting in my closet with the door. So even better. I have been nothing but impressed with the LG especially on the drying cycle. The list on mine was also $1599 if I recall, but seemed like all the stores would discount it to $1099 or $1199 at the same time. It was very hard to get back in July 2021...and it took 3x attempts as the first 2x arrived damaged in warehouse. Think it was September by the time I actually got it. Would definitely buy it all over again though.
@@AdventureRocks ok. I seen the 355HWA during my search. I'm glad to hear your impressed with the machine, as I really don't want to do the stacking unit, although I was worried when I read a cycle was around 3 hours to complete. So just to be sure, the dryer really does a good job? I see you have the tray under it.... Was that special to your machine, or just a standard tray to prevent water on the floor Incase of a leak? Where did you get that as well?
Thanks much for the help..
@@kreutztimothy Sure, no problem. Yes, I've been very impressed with the drying capabilities on the LG. Every ventless/condensing dryer that I've used before would always leave clothes damp and take sometimes even over 4+ hrs for full cycle. The LG is much faster and I'd say about 95-100% as dry as a vented dryer gets them (depending on fabric type). I've been very impressed with it. I think it is built a lot better compared to the other more common RV brands.
I like to put the drain/drip tray just as a precaution. I used this one here:
www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-6-2424L-24-x-24-A-C-Secondary-Condensate-Drain-Pan
...I did have to trim the edges of pan on sides/back using a oscilating multi-tool as it has a lip that protrudes bigger than the 24x24 needed. I like that pan has a true drain plumbed on it, which I oriented to the right side where there is an access panel already cut from Jayco. Then I elbowed out of the drain to a 1" or 3/4" vinyl braided hose, which I then ran along the same chaise as the PVC drain along right/passenger wall (carpet bump out), under dresser and down through floor below right where the Equalizer jack is located, leaving a short stub by jack that is barely visible from outside (so basically all concealed under dresser and in single tank propane bay). That way if any water ever would drain, it has a clear path to escape outside the RV.
And because of the way the washer spins at such a high RPM, I added several wear layers where the feet rest using Gorilla tape in the pan, so that over time the motion while spinning won't wear a soft spot in the pan with the carpet flooring in closet. Leveling the feet was also tricky too. A custom galavanized pan would work too, assuming it is sealed/leak proof.
I also made a cut-out in rear closet wall for the hot and cold supply to line-up to enable me to push mine further back, since there's plenty of hose/void space behind closet wall. Then I brought them back in along right side of wall up to the actual supply. If the new model is indeed much shallower, you may not need to do that at all. Hope all that makes sense.
@@AdventureRocks I couldn't have explained it all better...I was following everything you were describing, perfectly!
I really like the fact you didn't waste the time plumbing the leak pan to the plumbing, and instead, right out of the rig! Brilliant idea! 👍
Thanks again!
Great video, thanks. Definitely interested in the outside cameras mod. Did the underbelly lighting, did another popular loft to midbunk mod to improve airflow. .. good community support for our coaches!
We have a 2021 Northpoint 377. We did a mod related to the coaches round/white ceiling registers. When you remove one, you’ll notice there’s an airgap between the white ceiling board and the grey raceway duct. That gap is the attic space. The fact those ceiling registers do not have an airtight fit, when the air pressurizes the ductwork, air escapes into that attic space. I removed the registers, used pieces of foil tape to go around the hole and seal that open attic air gap. Did this for all registers and it significantly increased airflow throughout the coach.
Thanks for all the mods! Adding the puck light in the shower was it pretty simple to fish a wire over from the other light? Also did you happen to do a video of switching out the max air fan? Thanks again!
Correct, the trusses run parallel to path of new light in shower, so no obstacles. I don't think I even needed a rigid fish tape as the wire I used was rigid enough to just slide across inside ceiling. I had to buy a 6-pack, but here's the exact same fixture that was in mine already: amzn.to/3O65PrA
I have not done a video on switching fan out. The hardest part was really just scraping off all the existing dicor sealant on roof...getting it off without tearing roof membrane...just tedious. I like the model with the built-in cover/vent so you don't have to add one later. Has standard remote, etc. - amzn.to/3yZmCse
@@AdventureRocks thanks for the info! I already have bought that exact fan and attempting to put it in this weekend! I definitely love having a light in the shower so I have a rechargeable power strip in there with motion but I definitely will add the light.. I figured that was the case but I was a little gun shy about putting a hole and not being able to get access to the other light! Thanks again.
@@SalvatorePlano sure, glad to help. Hope it all goes smoothly!
Where can I get the locks for the front generator/battery storage area. I like you do not like these areas easily accessible to others and keyed the same. Wow, you are awesome. Thanks for sharing all you improvements. Al
Thank you. Yes, I got the matching locks direct from Bauer (vendor Jayco uses) and for my unit I needed 1x SCI cam lock 1.75 long (for gen) and 2x SCI cam lock 1.125 long (for 2x propane). Some may not like the propane locked for code/safety reasons, but I'm comfortable with the risks personally. You just specify your key ID (engraved on your key) and then Bauer will key them up for you automatically. Here's link: bauerproducts.com/product/sci-cam-lock/
@@AdventureRocks thank you so much for your reply. I wish I could drop off my Pinnacle for you to do so many of the improvements you’ve done with yours. You’ve got some very significant skills. Thanks for your videos. Al
@@althomes8517 Thank you, I appreciate that! I always enjoy working with my hands. Glad to help.
@@AdventureRocks One last question. Do you have a TH-cam video as it relates to the antenna.
We have a very expensive 5th Wheel but feel we have the same old technology we had with our previous MH, actually our 6 year older MH provided us better service.
I’ve been looking for some help understanding this new unit but I find nothing. Your understanding of the Pinnacle is something I’m looking for. Thanks for your help. Al
@@althomes8517 I have not yet done a video on the antenna yet. I have noticed reception isn't the best, or at least compared to some of my previous rigs. But, I haven't done anything yet to try and improve it. I had the best reception on one of those old-school crank up antennas on a previous rig.
Hi Jay. I’m having the same issue with the front cap LED strip lighting that you had. The new blue LED lighting strip came today. Thanks for the info. But I’m going to need a new plastic cover. Mine has shrunk 3/8” and is now too short. And try as I may, I can’t get it clean enough. Do you have a source for this or is this something to get from Jayco. I really enjoy all of your videos. TIA
Great question! I think the product below is a close match...profile looks very similar. I have NOT tried the tube/channel myself as I reused mine, but it shows a max width of 10mm inside, and I believe the LED strip itself is closer to 8mm so that should allow it to slide in. If you end up ordering it you'll have to report back how it works :)
amzn.to/3xSelVL
Love all the updates! I would like to learn how you put the blue lights under the frame and tied them into the BMPro system. Also, would like to learn how you made the access panel slide. You are way more handy than me, so I need to see how things are done before I attempt. Thanks for the help! P.S. Where did you find the light strip for the front cap. Ours went out in the middle.
Thank you. Sure, glad to help. I will aim to do a short one on lights and sliding door over next few weeks. Lights are probably one of my favorites.
Here is the link to the blue "COB" (high density) LED strip that I used to replace front cap: amzn.to/3CSc4eH
...it was a little tricky getting it to slide in to the existing neon tube. I believe I had to use a little lubricant to make it easier. You can of course cut to length at one of the notated marks on the strip.
Thanks for the info! I look forward to those videos. It is so nice to have a fellow Pinnacle owner with your knowledge and abilities share upgrades via video. Your effort and productivity is much appreciated! The only issue is my wife keeps asking why I’m ordering so much from Amazon…LOL!
Micro-Air Easy Touch smart thermostat! With everything you did I'm really surprised this wasn't on your list.
Great idea. With the BMPRO JAYCOMMAND smart RV system it controls the HVAC already, so it's all integrated under one system with lights, motors, etc. But, the smart thermostat would be a nice upgrade for a unit with just regular analog controls for sure.
Hi I loved your video of mart. Keep up the good work. I did have a couple of questions on where did you purchase your LED strip lights for your storage compartment and the carpetless slide wear layer did you purchase them anywhere in particular.
Thank you! Yes, here is link to LED lights in storage:
amzn.to/3TbWBgJ
...and the wear-layer tape here:
amzn.to/3j715rW
I have a 2021 Pinnacle 36kpts. Where did you get the front cap blue led lighting ? Or how did you do that upgrade ? Thank you
Yes, mine got water inside and the original LEDs went bad. Apparently it's pretty common and I didn't even think to check the seals on either end beforehand. In the process of replacing I decided to carry the blue light theme forward and so bought a blue strip instead of the original warm white. Basically you re-use the outer "neon-style" tube and the plastic chrome end pieces. Then you just slide the new LED strip inside the tube and re-wire, good to go. I made sure to seal it up with silicone on either end so it doesn't go bad again.
Here's the blue LED strip I used (they have to be a special high density strip for it to look right):
amzn.to/3JwCRQi
And, if you want to replace with the same warm white color, here it is:
amzn.to/3IARCAf
@@AdventureRocks thank you. Im learning alot about ours by following your channel. Keep up the great content
@@Lendon68 thank you!
Wow. I liked every one of them.
Love your mods
Thank you!
in the event you were camping and the hard wire surge protector went down can you bypass it temporarily till you get the replacement part? Carrying a temporary surge protector till you could get the hardwired one repaired
th-cam.com/video/yXfiVdz4adI/w-d-xo.html is a more detailed video on just surge if you're interested in full details, but basically the best practice is to not cut/shorten your existing 50A/4-pole bundle during install, and instead buy an extra 5-7' bundle to go between surge outlet and supply point (transfer switch or breaker panel) so that you can easily disconnect the surge at campsite in the event if total failure with just basic tools such an allen key and flat blade screw driver. Probably about a 5-10 min job in the field to undo it. Hope that makes sense.
what blue light strips did you use underneath the RV....Thanks!!!
amzn.to/3w7IYGS
Interested in the wiring changes needed for; splitting the bedroom, bathroom toe kick lighting and how to split the awning, step lights. You do great videos.
@@pvf1799 Thank you! I'm working on one this week for the exteriror awning/step/downlights wiring and plan to have it released this Sunday evening. I'll add the toe kick/accent lighting to list for future videos as well. Thank you for the idea.
Great video! Thank you.
We have the same model Pinnacle as you. We are having trouble with our slide floor linoleum curing up. We tried using some Velcro to hold it down but it didn’t work.
Are you heard of anyone else having that issue with the Pinnacle floor? If so what was the solution.
You know I have same issue more recently in front of the recliners, but I think it was partially my fault as I closed it up for a while and the floor ran into a bench I had stored in middle there on floor, causing it to be stored in a curled/upward position for about a month between use. Prior I don't think I had the issue. I have noticed with the "flush floor" design it has kinda a ridge at the seam so it naturally wants to curl up. Otherwise on my dinnette side it isn't curling. I might try a heat gun on low setting next and just see what happens. You'll have to report back if you find success with another method.
Great stuff. I'd love to learn how to add the TPMS on the trailer to my 2021 RAM3500HD. Can you help
I ordered mine with the trailer TMPS factory installed. It's my understanding that at minimum you deed to install the receiver in addition to having the truck programmed before you can pair TMPS sensors. I'm not sure how difficult that is, but I'd imagine it is possible.
I did demo how the factory trailer TMPS works in this video:
th-cam.com/video/IM1H-h259QE/w-d-xo.html
Hi, Love all your videos! Great info, details, AND descriptions of stuff. Not too wordy, just right. I would like more specific info on your basement moryride slider installation, and where did you get those grey heavy duty totes? I need some of those! Thank you so much!
Thank you! I'm actually working on a storage video to be released soon where I'll go over it in more detail. The containers are from Uline "Straight Wall Containers" and I absolutely love them for RV storage. They are a bit pricey $$, but I've used them now on 2 different RVs. They stack with different sizes and are super tough, so should be the last containers you buy. Here is link to the Uline page. I got a mix of 9.5" and 14.5" tall along with a couple 5" on my wet bay side. All 24x15 L x W: www.uline.com/BL_190/Straight-Wall-Containers
@@AdventureRocks Excellent! Thank you! I look forward to watching your latest videos. 😀
Do you want have a video on how you wired the dimmer switch in your bathroom?
Great idea, thank you! Will plan for that in future.
Hi Jay, on the Lithium Batteries upgrade what did you to need to do with the converter since it's set up from Jayco to charge lead acid batteries? I think I saw something in a previous video where you said there is a switch that you can simply change the function without changing anything? Is that correct? Thanks for the reply!
Yes, if you have the Progressive Dynamics converter/charger panel, there is a small cut out visible with the lid/flap open. You kinda have to get down on your knees as it is recessed in there a good bit, but it should have a tiny toggle switch to flip on the actual circuit board. Think it's labeled something like "LI" and "LA" if I recall. Just flip the switch and you're good to go :)
@@AdventureRocks great! That’s 100% what I’ve got. Thanks for the valuable reply 👍🏼
Do you flip the switch where the breakers are at inside the coach?
any concerns of overloading that channel of the BmPro node with both awning lights? did you measure the amps or know the max amp load? Thanks!!!
Yes, the BMPro system has logic built-in to detect when the channels are drawing too many amps. I forget the exact error message you'll get (somewhat generic), but I did have a significantly higher/more dense LED strip initially and discovered I needed to step down to a slightly lower amp draw for the down lighting strip to to make it work - amzn.to/3w7IYGS
@@AdventureRocks thanks again!!
I'm planning on doing this mod when I put my underbody lights on. I want them on a separate switch than both awning lights. If I'm over amps, I'll just add a relay to power the underbody lights, then the only draw that the BMPro sees is the relay...
@@darrinhiebert Great idea!
Do you have trouble getting to the SRE-4000 wet bolts? I noticed they are facing the tire and very hard to get at. I just ordered a 90 deg lube fitting. I’m hoping I can get to the wet bolt without having to take off the tire.
Yes, I have had same problem. I actually greased when I took tires off last time. Probably would be easier if facing inward. You'll have to report back and let us know if the right angle adapter makes it easier.
Finally had a chance to try the Slippery Pete - 90 Degree Grease Gun Coupler Snaps onto Grease Fittings in Tight Spaces. The 90 Degree fitting allowed me to grease the SRE-4000 wet bolts. Next time I’ll need to take pressure off the suspension by jacking it up in order to get grease completely through each of the bolts. Over all I would recommend the Slippery Pete fitting.
@@tgiattino That is very helpful to know. Thank you for the update. Will have to get one soon. Thank you again.
I have a 32rlts. Do you think 4 strips for under lighting is enough? How did you connect them together and did you hardwire so that you can turn them on with the jcommand
I did hardwire mine into the JayCommand system. Here's link to more detailed video: th-cam.com/video/iLNw1ytPaeU/w-d-xo.html
I actually joined awning 1 & 2 under Awning 2 channel, and then left the Awning 1 & Step channel for just step and downlighting. However, there is an amperage limit per channel as I found and I could only get 2 strips for front lower I-beam (if it draws too many amps, BMPro will throw error message and turn off channel). So, I believe if you want 4 strips to cover full length, you'll need to skip the JayCommand channels and just make a new analog switch altogether. But, the strips I got were 16 feet, so I think you'd cover pretty much your full underside with 4x strips.
Thank you your videos are awesome! I’m actually going to do the watchdog search protector install as well as well as the front LED light which had burned out. Thanks so much for the detail
@@davids88keys Glad to hear it. Hope it all goes smoothly! Thank you
@@AdventureRocks off topic I have another question for you. When you remove the decal off the front cap did it leave any residue or impression or shadow? Also any advice or tips on how you removed it? Also the extra switch in the bathroom when you install the new fan and didn't need the switch anymore what did you do with that switch? I have put in another light above the shower as you did and wanted to wire into that switch however the second switch which we had used originally for the fan is a toggle switch and doesn't work to wire into for a light
@@davids88keys Sure, glad to help. I removed my front decal about 4 months or so after it had been manufacturered and original decal applied presumably. It came off in hundreds of pieces, but it was pretty clean. Only minimal adhesive residue left behind around edges and that came off easily with some mineral spirits or WD-40. The tedious part was just peeling it as it kept tearing. Maybe 30-40 min peeling it off and another 20-30 with solvent and then washing/sealing? I noticed an extremely faint difference up close between black paint under decal immediately following removal, but after a few months later I cannot tell at all...so maybe the sun/UV rays just needed to blend it.
On the bathroom switch I also had the same problem after swapping out fan. It kinda bugged me that I had a left over unused switch, so I swapped it out with a dual gang dimmer switch (amzn.to/3LwuR2Q). That solved the problem and gave nice option to dim lights if desired, which is kinda nice with the extra lumens in there. Anyway I'll put link to that detailed video below on switch, but if any other questions just let me know.
th-cam.com/video/4PmivOUGveM/w-d-xo.html
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