Good day Paul. I know you said you went up there without a plan but I didn't expect you to start destroying the superstructure of the boat. When you explained that you had to do that fit the motor at the correct angle and also give yourself more room in the engine room it made a lot of sense. Are you going to paint the outside of the hull before you put it in the water.
Yes definitely painting. I am still putting more thought into it as to what I am going to do. It is going to take a few weeks before I can work out the exact details but I have a fair idea right now. Have a look at the channel logo and you will see the plan. None of the structure above the chine will be remaining. It will all be changed
Looks like an SAE 1 bellhousing mate. 12 holes equally spaced on a 530mm diameter circle. Bolts will be 7/16-14 At a guess the flywheel looks like a Delco 17.75 if you want to look up it's measurements and compare.
I measured it all to get a plate made up to set the gearbox up. The phone ringing just at the end of that shot was my mate saying he didn't have any 12mm plate lol, he has a CNC plasma cutter. I needed to verify the flywheel sizes so I could order a drive plate also.
@@TheadventuresofSherylandPaul Be careful with that one mate. You need the gearbox to be well aligned with the crank, unless you're going to use a holset coupling or similar to take care of any misalignment, which isn't a bad idea anyway. You also need to have the correct depthing etc to go with it. Have a look at your gearbox as well, chances are pretty good that it's got a standard flange and shaft as well. There's quite possibly an off the shelf bellhousing you can buy that will go between them and clutch adaptor to go with it, otherwise it may be easier to change the flywheel to match. Unlike cars they tend to make larger motors and boxes to standards to make them easier to mix and match.
Thanks Daniel, I've got it all sorted, I think lol. Nah I have. I'll turn the bolt centre's on a mate's lathe and the step. I only need it to line everything up at this stage. But I still don't want to do it twice. I've sourced a flex drive plate which is similar to a pressure plate on a car with the rubber dampeners and springs so it will take out any mild misalignment. I was amazed at how simple it was to source the torsion plate I thought it would be a nightmare. Good to see people asking these questions/ offering support so I have to think about it. Cheers
Hey Paul, i dont know what kind of gearbox youre having but: ever thought about installing a python-drive or any other homokinetic drive between gearbox and propellershaft? Makes a lot of things easier, like possibly leaving the floor where it is... and reducing noise while driving. Whatever solution youre going for - thanks for letting us join you on your way to the water.
I had considered it originally, but In the wheel house I want to put a seat along the rear wall so it will make it difficult to get to the engine. I am going to be able to put another bunk directly under the wheel house floor by leaving the engine aft. So if ever our kids decide to have grandkids they can have a place to stay. Otherwise they would be sleeping on the lounge in the main saloon. It's a budget build too so anything I don't have to pay for I wont. The floor is rusted out in that area of the boat and the intention was always to replace it.
Norm sent me I don’t think you’re crazy If Steel has rock you can just cut it If fibreglass gets osmosis it can be a big problem I’ve subscribed follow your channel mate My personal boat is a Riviera three cabin three bathroom three living room Twin Cummins 6BT 315 HP
looking forward to all what you've got planned. cheers.
Wow lots to get done now!! Keep rolling and stay safe! 👍👍
And lots more too lol
@@TheadventuresofSherylandPaul yep keep rolling along! 👍👍
That escalated quickly, you've got the skills and grit to get it done. I cant wait to see more.
It had to be done and I was just procrastinating with it. So it’s a case of “here we go!”
Didn't want to waste a trip and had nothing else to carry on with lol.
Good day Paul. I know you said you went up there without a plan but I didn't expect you to start destroying the superstructure of the boat. When you explained that you had to do that fit the motor at the correct angle and also give yourself more room in the engine room it made a lot of sense. Are you going to paint the outside of the hull before you put it in the water.
Yes definitely painting. I am still putting more thought into it as to what I am going to do. It is going to take a few weeks before I can work out the exact details but I have a fair idea right now. Have a look at the channel logo and you will see the plan. None of the structure above the chine will be remaining. It will all be changed
Scrubbin the ol poop deck matey
Are you bored at work today son? I thought you were on night shift this weekend?
Looks like an SAE 1 bellhousing mate.
12 holes equally spaced on a 530mm diameter circle.
Bolts will be 7/16-14
At a guess the flywheel looks like a Delco 17.75 if you want to look up it's measurements and compare.
I measured it all to get a plate made up to set the gearbox up. The phone ringing just at the end of that shot was my mate saying he didn't have any 12mm plate lol, he has a CNC plasma cutter. I needed to verify the flywheel sizes so I could order a drive plate also.
@@TheadventuresofSherylandPaul Be careful with that one mate.
You need the gearbox to be well aligned with the crank, unless you're going to use a holset coupling or similar to take care of any misalignment, which isn't a bad idea anyway.
You also need to have the correct depthing etc to go with it.
Have a look at your gearbox as well, chances are pretty good that it's got a standard flange and shaft as well. There's quite possibly an off the shelf bellhousing you can buy that will go between them and clutch adaptor to go with it, otherwise it may be easier to change the flywheel to match.
Unlike cars they tend to make larger motors and boxes to standards to make them easier to mix and match.
Thanks Daniel,
I've got it all sorted, I think lol. Nah I have. I'll turn the bolt centre's on a mate's lathe and the step. I only need it to line everything up at this stage. But I still don't want to do it twice. I've sourced a flex drive plate which is similar to a pressure plate on a car with the rubber dampeners and springs so it will take out any mild misalignment.
I was amazed at how simple it was to source the torsion plate I thought it would be a nightmare. Good to see people asking these questions/ offering support so I have to think about it.
Cheers
Hey Paul, i dont know what kind of gearbox youre having but: ever thought about installing a python-drive or any other homokinetic drive between gearbox and propellershaft? Makes a lot of things easier, like possibly leaving the floor where it is... and reducing noise while driving.
Whatever solution youre going for - thanks for letting us join you on your way to the water.
I had considered it originally, but In the wheel house I want to put a seat along the rear wall so it will make it difficult to get to the engine. I am going to be able to put another bunk directly under the wheel house floor by leaving the engine aft. So if ever our kids decide to have grandkids they can have a place to stay. Otherwise they would be sleeping on the lounge in the main saloon. It's a budget build too so anything I don't have to pay for I wont. The floor is rusted out in that area of the boat and the intention was always to replace it.
Norm sent me
I don’t think you’re crazy
If Steel has rock you can just cut it
If fibreglass gets osmosis it can be a big problem
I’ve subscribed follow your channel mate
My personal boat is a Riviera three cabin three bathroom three living room
Twin Cummins 6BT 315 HP
Sweet ride. Welcome aboard. 6BT’s one day. Can’t believe I used to throw those engines in the scrap pile.
What type of gearbox are you going with, inline, drop down or down angle?
Its a twin disc 502A It is down angle so I am planning to angle the engine nose down about 2 to 3 degrees