Install E3D V6 Hotend - MonoPrice Select Mini 3D Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มี.ค. 2017
- Original Monoprice Select Mini: amzn.to/2tRxh8N
New Monoprice Select Mini V2: amzn.to/2FZD4hy
RepRap E3D V6 Hotend and Parts: amzn.to/2DwWvcl
PlayList of all my 3D Printing Video's: goo.gl/FKD0Tq
The entire process i went through to replace the stock hotend on my MonoPrice Select Mini 3D printer, with an E3D V6 clone made by RepRap. I try to cover all the steps you will have to do to replace the existing hotend, belt, wires, and bolts. Then how you will have to modify the mount to accept the new hardware.
Later i printed a new mount and had to redo everything. But little tips like how to route your wires and aluminum tape to protect your PLA 3D printed mount.
(Disclosure Note: Please note that the Amazon link(s) above are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase after clicking through the link.) - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thank you for being open enough to show your mistakes along the way. Other videos, even the good ones, can make it seem like everything ought to work right the first time. Of course, we never see all the edits that make it look that polished. I'm learning a lot. Thanks for sharing!
Its a cool start to this video. Your blurb about messing up is spot on
ok thank you i will try that out if possible can u make a small video showing how to resolve this problem
Great video. I just started working with my printer a couple of days ago and learned a lot by screwing up as well. Thanks for thinking of the common man that doesn't work with these things 24/7.
Just the information I've been searching for. Thanks.
Which jst connector would be best for this? I just bought a new hotend and dont have a spare plug I can solder on. Thanks for the great vid!
Hello Dave, i want to buy this hot end but is my first printer so i have a question: u show how to install the hotend, but do i need also to modify the firmware? i ask this because i have a creality ender 2 mini and i cant find anything related to this printer, not what kind of arduino board use or abut marlin firmware upgrade/modify
quick trick ive learn while working with 3d printed parts, i finally broke down an got a couple assorted m bolts so i have plenty to work with but when cutting threads into 3d printed parts i take whatever bolt size works an i cut a line on either side of the bolt at the tip so it cuts threads an works like a thread cutter. makes cutting the threads alot easier an cleaner an they seem to hold better for me than if i just force a bolt in. the first few screws i tried cutting 3 lines but sometime they was so small it made it hard so i back down to 2 lines an it works just as good.
man, i had no idea i was going to enjoy this video so much. Modern day equal of thisoldhouse.
Thanks for the video. I used 4-40 stainless pan head screws and nuts from my local hardware store. Cost was under $2 and easier to find than M3's in the USA. Two 3/4" long for the mount to the carriage and two 1 1/4" for the cap holding the E3D clone heat sink to the new mount. I think 1" for the longer screws would have also worked too, but then it would have taken a second trip to the store. Worked out just fine overall except big fingers little nuts took some time to locate on the longer two screws. I thought about heating the nuts and pressing into the mount so I didn't have to work so hard, but ended up just holding the nuts with pliers and got them started after a few attempts.
Thanks for the previous answer! I have ONE more... After installing my E3DV6 Genuine hotend, now when I hit 'Home' my monoprice, the hotend ends up about 3MM off the front left corner of the bed. Basically, the same as place as the factory setting, but, about 3MM off the front of the bed now. I can move the hot end into the right position (using on the pronterface interface) - is there a way I can move the hot end into the desired place on the bed that I would like it to 'home' to, and then upload a command (followed by M500) to save that desired position as the 'new default' location when hitting the 'Home' button? Is it possible to do that way? Or, do you know a pronterface command to upload (followed by M500), to make the E3Dv6 home on the left corner of the bed? Basically, 'fixing' the homing positioning with the offset, through pronterface, and saving it in the firmware so that it then homes on the left front corner of the bed again? I'd rather work through pronterface since I had been adding the necessary commands to account for the PID etc., and I have no idea to then offload that tweaked firmware into arduino. I'd rather just add a command through pronterface to fix this final issue..
great video series, very helpful... i am just about to do this install myself.
at 14:10 you discuss mounting the larger fan and the graphic says "This was something I show in a separate video" but I can't find it. This is the one part I really want to see.... I assume you just cut off the stock fan and spliced in the larger one? Soldered?
Ya i haven't gotten around to editing and uploading that video. I'll try to get to it soon. Lots of people add a 40mm fan but i had a 50mm fan lying around so i cut the wires and soldered it in. Also i had to download the 30mm to 50mm flange. Here's what i have right now. goo.gl/kXZ9sr
hey man, i just need to say that i haven't seen any of your videos before and didn't even know u existed but that this video has SAVED my 3d printer when nobody else could! u sir are a legend and deserve way more subs than u have, so u can have mine as a start :D
Thanks for the help, made this less painful
Were you having trouble with the stock hot end, were you getting bad prints ? I hope not, I just bought the Version 2 and so far it is working fine ?
I have had it going all July 4th long weekend and getting great prints ... as good as my Prusa ... Your videos are very good, but I personally would not go thru what you are doing on this printer for sure !
Did you ever find the plugs that works for the heat cartridge?
These printers use metric M bolts. Usually in the M3, M4, and M5 bolts...commonly available at Lowe's. This are hex head also available with Philips head.
Messing up first is how I learn too!
Well I for one enjoyed the video. Makes it easy for me to follow. Got a question though, when you installed this hot end, did you have to mess with the "coding" or parameters of the printer since this is upgraded from what it came with? If so, how did you go about doing this. Thanks.
I've never changed the coding or firmware of the printer. You may need to adjust the Zaxis switch so it triggers when the nozzle is near the print bed. But any changes for filament flow or anything was in the slicing.
great informative video keep it up. Trial and error makes us wise....subscribed!!
so I installed the ed3 , oddly , the hotend tops out at 176 , no matter what I do , 176 is tops.. I'm not sure if I'm gonna go back to stock or what.
dude good on you for knowing you cant know till you fuck it up. its hard for a lot of people to admit that. thanks for making this. im not doing this but seeing in the gantry was helpful.
Thank you so much, I had no idea how to get the heat sink off. Do you have a link to the 3D printed part to replace it with?
I think i tried 2 or 3 different ones but liked this the best...the zero offset version
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848402
How can you print at a higher temperature if the printer only lets you go up to 250 C?
Could we please have the link to the piece you were talking about when you said "Luckily I printed this out" @2:05. Thanks
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1724767
You can use the same bolts if you cut off the little lip on the x-carriage. See how the bottom of your printed mount sticks out further than the rest @ 2:13? They are m3 (0.5 pitch), you just need corresponding hex nuts.
I had a similar problem with my mono price printer and went with the cheap v6 off eBay my first problem was that I didn’t have the ability to print the stuff to mount the hot end. But I am a machinist and capable of making a metal one and I did that part works next problem the heater cartridge did not work at all I put the old one back from the other hot end in and it was almost working until it shorted out. Order another one it was wrong one so I ordered a different one. This one works a little to well. Temperature was 330c. And it will not allow me to turn it down. Do I need to order another cartridge for it and what should I get or is it something that I missed?
Not really sure, i just hooked mine up and all the temperature settings worked normally. If it's heating up the cartridge should be fine. Maybe its something with your Thermistor (temp sensor) not communicating with your board, telling it to stop heating.
Hey Dave! Quick Question... I JUST installed my E3D V6 All Metal Hotend on my Monoprice mini V1. One issue - between the end of the E3D assembly instructions (and what your video covers with actual install), I am confused about how to actually connect the Monoprice bowden tube to the top of the hotend. I see a nut in the video but the way it seems there is no threasing at the top of the hotend. I have pics I can email you if you want to get a visual - I just need to know how much to cut the PTFE tube at the top of the hot end and how exactly to screw on the mini's bowden tube. Thanks!!
At the top of my hotend it was threaded for that one fitting (forget the name of it) it's the fitting that holds the white PTFE tube without pulling out until you push the ring in. You shouldn't have to cut the PTFE tube, just push it into the hotend till it stops. I tapered the end of my PTFE tube to fit the tapered inside at the bottom of the hotend, but you dont really have to. So to sum up, just post the white PTFE tube in till its tight.
Thanks! Yes, I did do that, and so I have about 3" of PTFE tubing protruding from the top, its well seated in the hot end. However, the feeder tubing that was part of the monoprice mini (that fit into the original heat sink), seems to be the same size. The very top of the E3D V6 hot end down't have any extra threading to put a nut on to somehow join with the end of the feeder tube (but, somehow you do it). Maybe you can unscrew the feeder tube from the top of the hot end and explain in a video how that attaches? I for one would REALLY appreciate it! I have no idea how to connect the two the way things seem to be right now. Thanks!!
@@Gouldeyecandy So you are saying yours looks like this: www.google.com/search?q=e3d+v6&safe=off&rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS821US821&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjBwpv1w9HeAhWHqIMKHZ5qDg8Q_AUIFCgC&biw=1778&bih=860#imgrc=sb4bEbv3rgW-XM:
and mine looks like this: www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fmakershopbcn.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F11%2FHOTEND-E3D-V6-BOWDEN.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fmakershopbcn.com%2Fen%2Fproduct%2Fe3d-v6-bowden-hotend&docid=hpfo0q1YwJACjM&tbnid=RoVcFwbE-eTksM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwikzIr2w9HeAhWF4IMKHf03DC0QMwiZASgOMA4..i&w=800&h=800&safe=off&bih=860&biw=1778&q=e3d%20v6&ved=0ahUKEwikzIr2w9HeAhWF4IMKHf03DC0QMwiZASgOMA4&iact=mrc&uact=8
Yup! Got it! Thanks!
If you go to a hardware store (not a big box)you can get the right sized metric screws and nuts for a dollar or two rather than drill out any holes.
I learn by breaking stuff...the hard way.......>You and me both lol!
So i'm no electrician, but i'm doing work on the v2 hot end and i'm confused, usually you have 1 red an 1 black wire with electronics in my experience anyways and the heater block has 2 red wires do i need to worry about that? No markings on the old wires or the new wires other than the gauge and how much they can handle...
I'm not an electrician either, but i don't think there's a + and -. I don't think it matters which end is connected on the heater block.
Are the steps the same on the MP select mini V2? Same commands in the firmware after upgrade?
Not sure, i've never used version 2. But i never upgraded the firmware on my version 1. It just printed fine with the new hotend. I just played around with the slicer settings.
does the ed3 come with a new temp sensor ?? did you have to change the firmware ?
Change the firmware - No. Some people talk about doing a PID tuning, but mine was fine as is. The CLONE E3D V6 that i got was a kit that came with everything, the heater cartridge, thermistor (temp sensor). I just connected the wires to the existing and it worked.
ok , just ordered the imitation for 12 bux./.thanks
I screw up all the time too. Had to learn how to write a plugin for Octopi to control my heated bed via raspberry pi and relay board after managing to destroy permanently the heater fets and pcb pads on the board.
Screwing up by mistake is fine. Screwing up because you didn't bother to read the instructions....not so fine. Screwing up because you didn't bother to read the instructions and then posting it as instructions for other people to follow...not fine at all :-(
hay my extruder keeps clogging up and i ordered a new one through mono mini buts its clogging up still any advise please help i print at 210 so it should be fine i used to print at 190 temp on the extruder but just need a lil advice thanks
Emmanuel Rivera I connected my hotend fan so it blows directly onto the heat sink at 12 Volts. I needed higher air flow so that it wouldn't melt inside the cold zone of the extruder. Your fan might be spinning too slowly and not cooling the heat sink off enough
Emmanuel Rivera you can unclog the nozzel by heating it up then putting filament in it then pulling the filament out while the nozzle is hot. If that doesn't work wait for the nozzle to cool and pull out the filament when it's cold.
Dude you are awesome for this video
I cannot find any guides on updating the firmware after installing this, yet just about every video tells me to make sure I update before printing. Where can I find the files for the firmware update?
I've never updated the firmware and i still print today just fine. I remember i was going to do it once to use Octoprint, but never did.
But i assume you load something onto the microSD card or something??
Heater block is in backwards. You won't be able to swap the cartridge if you have an issue .
did you use the 12v or 24v version
12 volt. the cheap $5 one on amazon
Try Permatex Red RTV to coat the Hotend. The Red RTV will handle temp up to 600 F. and all you need is a 1/16 of a inch thickness. Works better than the Gun Cotton.
I recently bought the E3D silicone sock 3-pack for $10. They work pretty well. But ya the RTV stuff would probably be cheaper and more permanent.
on mine mp mini select you can use an allen key to loosen the heater core. just thought i mention it for other people coming here and watching this.
petg is not always better. pla is better as v6 mounting bracket because its stiffer. petg is better suited for parts that requires more strength, but rigidity is not as important.
I got this printer for $30 and a hotend for $5 pretty good so far.
*_I always learn by screwing up_*
Tony Rios I feel ya
Put that on a tshirt
No, screwing up *_is how_* to learn.
I have never been so offended by someone describing me lmao
Did you have to update your firmware?
No i've never updated it. Just adjusted the Z axis switch with a spacer
Thingiverse link for the mount plate?
The plate he used reduces the print volume. Use this or one of the remixes. Check my other comment here and watch those videos on how to do it right.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848402
did you use the same pla filament
Jr M no I used colorFabb NGEN which has a 240 extruder temp
Dave Wirth I will like to buy a e3d V6 mount like the one you made
the reason I upgraded to the e3d V6 is because I bought the wrong filament I bought the ABS but for some reason it don't want to melt properly
PLA worked fine on my slightly modded zero-offset bracket. If it's getting hot enough to soften the PLA mount, then something's wrong. If it's that warm on the outside, think what's happening to the PLA filament on the inside.
The stock hot end will get far hotter than what's required for ABS. I've printed nylon on mine which takes 250C.
I must need aluminum tape, the heat travels all the way up to the clasp for the Bowden tube! My hot end clogs every time
higher fan speed. less retraction distance
So what is the difference between the e3d and the standard? I know people tend to call Bowden extruders e3d hot ends, but I'm mind fucked here.. it's the same shit
E3D is a company. They designed the V6 hotend. It became super popular and many companies in China copied their design and sell them for $5 instead of $70. The official E3D hotends are well made and have tight tolerances. It's kind of a roll of the dice whether you get a good one or not from China, so far the 2 cheap ones i bought are ok. Lots of people call the ones from China "E3D V6 CLONES". The "standard" hotend for the original MP Mini is something different. On the new Version 2 of the MP Mini they now use a hotend like the E3D V6. But for people like me, who own the Version 1, it was just as easy to upgrade my stock hotend to an E3D V6 clone.
Bowden doesn't have anything to do with the hotend. Bowden just means that there is a long tube connecting the drive motor and the hotend. The MP Mini is a Bowden setup because the motor is at the top, connected with a tube, to the hotend. The advantage is less weight on the arm. The opposite of a Bowden setup is Direct Drive, where the drive motor is on the arm. It's more weight to move but less chance of clogging between the motor and hotend.
jst connectors 15:00
You used the wrong size bolts. Should have used a smaller size bolt.
Ya i didn't have anything smaller. In hindsight i should have bought some before starting.
If you were to do it all again, what size bolts would you get?
...this is literally a carbon copy of my own experience with this printer. Ha!
so good 😂
If you had gone to LSU, you wouldn't have had to learn by screwing up... JJ :-)
This hurts
Thanks for not masking the installation procedure. This printer in my opinion is far more expensive than the way other reviewers make it out to be that is when you include all the time spent researching, troubleshooting the frequent jams and all the additions you will end up buying to improve or should I say required additions just to make it print. Just not worth the headache.
painful to watch, listen to etc.
Love to hear yourself talk much? Jesus Christ dude!
Some of us are okay with it. If you're not, no one is forcing you to listen.
I would be happy if jesus turned out to be a guy who knew about 3d printers. At least then he'd be worth listening to.
yeah, Not a great "How-to".
lots of stumbling, bumbling and backtrack story telling. I'm kind of looking for a 1, 2, 3 type video.
Thanks for uploading though.