In my experience, using two rags when cleaning for paint prep helps significantly. One rag soaked in cleaner and a second dry rag to wipe the cleaner off the surface before it drys.
Hey Matt, try mineral oil for the clean up on the front of the scales. Works well and it won’t wick like lacquer thinner or acetone. It’s a Will Stelter tip…I can’t take credit for it.
I've been wanting to drill holes in my handles like that but I didn't know if it would mess up my liners. I guess you answered my question 👍 great video
What ive been doing is taping up the blade where i dont want sny marks, then sandblasting the whole tang which i learned from Walter Sorrells. Works really well.
Another great video Matt. I picked up on applying oil on the clean flats above the bolster area. That’s something I don’t do in glue up. I live in a very dry area and haven’t had problems, but it wouldn’t hurt. The lanyard tube is something I do differently. I do scuff all pins and will roll them through a thin area of the epoxy puddle. I plug one end of the lanyard tube with cheap modeling clay and run that end through to keep the inside clear of epoxy. I leave it a little long and cut it off after the gflex sets overnight. Thank you for the video and sharing your process.
One of the things that I do is what I'm doing those little holes on the tang side of the scales I make sure that I have holes that line up with the weight reduction pass through holes in the tang. I feel that doing so creates an internal epoxy pin. Other than that our process is almost identical. Oh, one more thing I switched from using tape to mix the epoxy on to using a paper plate. It just seems to keep things a little cleaner and faster.
Since you have the front of the scales finished, cut and apply a small piece of blue painter's tape (there on your workbench) to the front finished part of each scale. Then a piece of tape on each side of the knife blade so it's 1/16" in front of the scales. Then, you can epoxy and clamp. Just wipe away the epoxy so there's not too much at the joint. No messing with thinner or acetone for clean up. When epoxy is set, you can peel off the tape and use a straight razor blade to trim away the small bit of excess that's left. I've done this for years and it's much easier than trying to clean up the blade while the epoxy is liquid.
Hello. Thank you for all the tapes you make. Why don't you cover the blade with cling film or adhesive paper while gluing? Why don't you work with surgical gloves?
@@gentrycustomknives8008 two knives with oversized scales one with the tiny holes and one with out, use the oversized scales to clamp one side and jack up the other and compare the two, bonus points for a small pressure plate that measures the force
Great video, Matt. I also use GFlex and it has worked well. Do you also use GFlex when you glue up your segmented scales or liners? I was thinking about just using JB Weld for liners since it's a bit cheaper and easier to mix up quick.
@gentrycustomknives8008 I can't compare it to anything else ..I know it works well and is cost effective, but cures slowly resulting as in any slow cure a great bond.
I also use Slow set BSI and never had any failures. When using any epoxy I have found that the proper mix ratio and stirring is important. Another great Mat thanks for sharing.
It’s not in your head Matt. Dimples and chamfers on the back side of scales increase the surface area to be bonded. More surface area, greater strength. As for epoxy, I agree on G-flex but recently been told that POP’s has their own and it’s identical to G-flex. I haven’t tried it yet because I still have half a bottle left but will get some when I need it.
As a new knife maker. This is by far my favorite channel.
Wow well thank you!
@@gentrycustomknives8008 your welcome!
Every time I’m stuck on something you release a video with all the info I need!
Awesome to hear! Thank you!
The muk you put together for me last year has seen a lot of fun already!! Favorite most versatile blade!
The prep/cleaning talk is definitely so true. I paint cars for a living and cleanliness is definitely next to godliness in importance.
In my experience, using two rags when cleaning for paint prep helps significantly. One rag soaked in cleaner and a second dry rag to wipe the cleaner off the surface before it drys.
Hey Matt, try mineral oil for the clean up on the front of the scales. Works well and it won’t wick like lacquer thinner or acetone. It’s a Will Stelter tip…I can’t take credit for it.
Kyle Royer uses wd40. I have never tried mineral oil but wd40 works way better than acetone.
O cool I’ll try that thank you!
Awesome! Looking forward to watching this later!
👊👊👊 well thank you and hopefully it helps
I've been wanting to drill holes in my handles like that but I didn't know if it would mess up my liners. I guess you answered my question 👍 great video
Thank you!
What ive been doing is taping up the blade where i dont want sny marks, then sandblasting the whole tang which i learned from Walter Sorrells. Works really well.
Another great video Matt. I picked up on applying oil on the clean flats above the bolster area. That’s something I don’t do in glue up. I live in a very dry area and haven’t had problems, but it wouldn’t hurt. The lanyard tube is something I do differently. I do scuff all pins and will roll them through a thin area of the epoxy puddle. I plug one end of the lanyard tube with cheap modeling clay and run that end through to keep the inside clear of epoxy. I leave it a little long and cut it off after the gflex sets overnight. Thank you for the video and sharing your process.
I think that’s a great idea! Thanks for watching!
I use a very similar process, but use Corby bolts as well, giving a better physical bond to the scales as well.
Those are nice!!
One of the things that I do is what I'm doing those little holes on the tang side of the scales I make sure that I have holes that line up with the weight reduction pass through holes in the tang. I feel that doing so creates an internal epoxy pin. Other than that our process is almost identical. Oh, one more thing I switched from using tape to mix the epoxy on to using a paper plate. It just seems to keep things a little cleaner and faster.
Both of those are great ideas! Thank you!
Since you have the front of the scales finished, cut and apply a small piece of blue painter's tape (there on your workbench) to the front finished part of each scale. Then a piece of tape on each side of the knife blade so it's 1/16" in front of the scales. Then, you can epoxy and clamp. Just wipe away the epoxy so there's not too much at the joint. No messing with thinner or acetone for clean up. When epoxy is set, you can peel off the tape and use a straight razor blade to trim away the small bit of excess that's left. I've done this for years and it's much easier than trying to clean up the blade while the epoxy is liquid.
Great idea thank you!
You can set a depth stop on the drill press. I’ve read a space of about .01 is the ideal about for epoxy to hold.
That’s a great idea!
Great presentation!!! Thank you!!!
Well thank you!
As always…learn something new. Thanks!
Awesome thank you for watching!
Hello. Thank you for all the tapes you make. Why don't you cover the blade with cling film or adhesive paper while gluing? Why don't you work with surgical gloves?
Whenever I drill holes for epoxy to pool into, I like to think I'm creating an epoxy dowel to help secure the parts. 🙂
Definitely!
Have you ever done stress tests to see if the little holes make a significant difference? Makes sense in my head just curious
Not on the hole theory. I want to though, what do you think would be a good test for that?
@@gentrycustomknives8008 two knives with oversized scales one with the tiny holes and one with out, use the oversized scales to clamp one side and jack up the other and compare the two, bonus points for a small pressure plate that measures the force
You always have the crispest grind lines
Thank you!
Great video, Matt. I also use GFlex and it has worked well. Do you also use GFlex when you glue up your segmented scales or liners? I was thinking about just using JB Weld for liners since it's a bit cheaper and easier to mix up quick.
I’m using starbond medium ca glue for most of my segmented scales now
Hey can you make a video about your razor sharp paper wheels ?
I have one up if you go back a ways !
How do you buy your belts for the grinder? Do you buy in bulk from Red Label?
Yes I do!
How thick is that G10?
.60
Have you ever used slow cure epoxy from BSI?
I haven’t! Should I check it out?
@gentrycustomknives8008 I can't compare it to anything else ..I know it works well and is cost effective, but cures slowly resulting as in any slow cure a great bond.
I also use Slow set BSI and never had any failures. When using any epoxy I have found that the proper mix ratio and stirring is important. Another great Mat thanks for sharing.
It’s not in your head Matt. Dimples and chamfers on the back side of scales increase the surface area to be bonded. More surface area, greater strength. As for epoxy, I agree on G-flex but recently been told that POP’s has their own and it’s identical to G-flex. I haven’t tried it yet because I still have half a bottle left but will get some when I need it.
hello， how do I contact u ? I dont see your email on the info part
Www.gentrycustomknives.com
Have you ever have people order a knife, you build it, and then no pick it up?
Yes! I normally just list them forsale though when that happens. No biggie