I've been struggling for months to diagnose the intermittent problems I was having with my icemaker. Like others, I checked out a lot of TH-cam videos that didn't address my problem. And then I came upon this one and learned there was a set of contacts that might need cleaning. Took me about 10 mins. to confirm that, yep, that was all I needed to do. Now it's working perfectly. Thanks VanTek for posting this video.
Thank You! Outstanding! I never would have known that my ice maker had a set of contact breaker points like an old distributor from an old car. WooHoo!!!
Same as so many others you helped. Intermittent problem was getting worse until it wouldn’t work at all. It would make ice but was unable to harvest it. I cleaned up the points and it functions normally now. Thank you for your help.
Thanks for the video. Yours is the only one showing the arms should be snapped in properly for the maker to be on. We were thinking ours is broken as it turned out one arm is in the wrong hole. Saved us a lot of trouble.
Thanks! This is exactly the problem I'm having. I'm going to try this solution tomorrow and hopefully that will be it. Thanks. Well done vid, too, btw.
These are pretty simple devices that work with basic make-break type of connections. My guess is that the level bar contacts are dirty/corroded so not making an electrical connection so harvest doesn't stop. You would have to lightly clean the contacts for the bar with some 500 grit sand paper. As long as there have been no adjustments made they should be set so hollow ice (a shell) means that the cycle is maybe skipping or accelerated, since dirty contacts can cause failure of an electrical connection, which is why a cycle stops, runs past and then causes a short harvest because it activates the next step. When you disassemble to clean , take pictures and take your time, clean the contacts and see how that works out. It usually fixes most issues. Good luck.
Good video... A little aside for mine though. I have a harvesting issue where the ice maker won't complete the cycle. Replaced the water supply valve from the pipe in the basement. Replaced the filter. great water flow and ice size at this point. It will harvest from the start but cycle stops when the wheel is at about the 10 o'clock postion. (The ice about vertical). To get it to finish have to use a hair dryer or reach in and pop the ice loose... Is this the contact issue you spoke of in the video?
Great video and instructions. Is there a thermostat on the module that could be the problem also? I have this issue and will clean the points as shown but curious how to know which component is the problem. Once I do the points I guess I’ll know that answer correct? Thanks.
hey. i got this exact ice maker. my issue is that it never goes into harvest mode. the pointer on my ice maker is just barely past the harvest bypass terminals (roughly 5 o clock position) if i bypass it, the heater doesnt kick on (i think its normal i heard somewhere else).
Liked the video, will try to clean up contact points. I have a question though. Last year I diagnosed a failed water valve selonoid in the same fridge you showed in the video. I could not find an exact replacement part. "discontinued"? I found one that looked as though it might work, modified the mounting bracket and made it work. I seems to be for a smaller ice maker of some kind as it will not completely fill the tray. I get about 3/4 of the ice i should. The water adjustment does not really do anything to help. Any ideas, or maybe you can suggest a different selenoid that will give me the right volume of water? Thanks.
I got a brand new water valve and whatever failure mode is saying is that the ice solenoid is being energized all the time so water flows into the icemaker all the time. I took apart the icemaker and I’m very familiar with its functionality. I just can’t figure out how the solenoid is being powered constantly for the ice. It looks identical to yours. It only has the two gears and none of the test ports that some of these ice makers have line yours
I have to he exact same ice maker I’ve fixed it about 5 times in 9 years. I’ve replaced the whole ice maker, then the dial on front, I’ve made 1 out of 2 with all the spare parts I’ve accumulated over the years. Only thing is mine has a on/off rocker switch. I recently replaced that rocker switch and now it makes ice again but it only cycles when that switch is on, which makes sense, but when the switch is on my blower fan in the back of the ice maker doesn’t run. As soon as I turn that switch off the fan comes on. Which is probably the way it’s supposed to work, but if I leave it turned in over night my fridge won’t cool. So every day I have to let my ice maker cycle, keep an eye on it and let it make some ice, then flick the switch so my fridge will cool. If the fan is running, and I turn the rocker on, the fan will still run but as soon as I press the door light button the fan stops running. It’s almost like the switch either allows it to make ice or cool the fridge. Not both. Where before I never had that problem. I’m stumped
If you tried cleaning the contacts and it still does the same thing there is most likely an issue with the module. All of the start stop functions are contact based. Modules can be replaced but I found it's just easier to replace the entire unit.
I have a Whirlpool side by side that uses an electronic ice level emitter instead of the wire bail to sense the ice level and shut off the icemaker. Does my icemaker also have the points or is the unit different?
Stamped copper contact points are typically selectively plated to create a self-healing surface, or at least not oxidize rapidly. Otherwise they form a copper oxide rectifier like a 1960’s HO train transformer. That raspberry sound a land line telephone in poor condition used to make periodically was the oxide layer diode breaking down and then re-forming and doing it again. When you burnish the contacts you strip off the plating. It would be better to clean them with an electrical cleaner. When they’re clean if they don’t function and they show a really rough deeply pitted surface there’s nothing to lose by burnishing the surfaces. If you burnish them you’ll end up doing that every few hundred cycles until they’re burned through, but refrigerators don;t last forever so not putting a new ice maker in an old fridge can make sense.
Video helpful. I just replace my ice maker with same symptoms. Would only harvest manually everything else works. New ice maker doing same thing. Any ideas.
@@vantekhome244 It went through 2 harvests in the first 2 hours and seemed to stop. I waited about 24 hours and did a manual override. It did a couple harvests and seemed to stop again. Now 24 hrs. is seems to be working properly. Thanks.
I have a whirlpool ice maker similar to yours iin the video. After I do a manual harvest the maker will auto cycle 2-4 times making cubes, then it will stop. Any ideas???
When it stops is the tray full or empty? If there is water in the tray frozen, then I would suspect the contacts, if the tray doesn't fill some folk have had issues with the door switch and have taped it down (hopefully only to test) and it worked. The door switch shuts of the fill valve so while the maker may be cycling on the timer, the tray never fills with water.
Question... my module isn't rotating however I don't see any water being brought up there either. Is the job of the module only to spin when ice isn't full or is it also to tell the valve to open and close? Thx
It's basically a rotary switch, which goes through the progression of making ice. Calls for water, tray fills, then x-time passes, lets say 2 hours, it then signals the tray heater to release the cubes. When that's done it signals the motor to rotate the fingers and harvest, then back to step one.
@@vantekhome7783 thanks for the reply. I guess my question is about the "calling of water ". I don't see any water so I'm trying to figure out if the issue is if my unit is falling water but the valve doesn't send any or if the module stopped asking for water and the valve is fine. Thx
My Whirlpool ice maker make ice but doesn't shut off ice Production when the Bin is full, Just piles up over the Bar! Doesn't seem like the Bar is working Correctly? Also the ice is Hollow not Solid? Adjustment maybe? Thanks for any help You can give.
These are pretty simple devices that work with basic make-break type of connections. My guess is that the level bar contacts are dirty/corroded so not making an electrical connection so harvest doesn't stop. You would have to lightly clean the contacts for the bar with some 500 grit sand paper. As long as there have been no adjustments made they should be set so hollow ice (a shell) means that the cycle is maybe skipping or accelerated, since dirty contacts can cause failure of an electrical connection, which is why a cycle stops, runs past and then causes a short harvest because it activates the next step. When you disassemble to clean , take pictures and take your time, clean the contacts and see how that works out. It usually fixes most issues. Good luck.
Hollow ice if often because the fridge filter needs changing. Make sure your fridge isn't set to extra ice production. If ice isn't used often enough, you may just need to manually turn the icemaker off until you've used most of the ice.
Did all you directed, but during harvest test it does not cycle. Previously harvesting had been very intermittent. So cleaning points no go. Bad module? Edit, removed whole unit. Discovered fingers frozen solid in the ice. In previous testing I'd done a water dispense cycle, overfilling tray and locking everything in upon freezing. Reinstalled after thawing. Btw, the wiring harness has an inline fuse, held in the back of the unit by a fuse holder. Only measured .1 ohms.
If the tray over filled there would have to have been a change to the level screw. I don't recommend doing any adjustments to the module. A fuse should measure close to 0 Ohms unless it's open in which case it would measure OL or Out of Limit (meaning that it is beyond the test meters measurement capabilities i.e. a Mega-Ohm meter would read >99 M-Ohms and a Giga-Ohm would be >999 G-Ohms), these ranges get confusing to some so manufacturers typically go with OL on the display. As far as I know (and according to the schematics) there is no fuse in the wiring harness, there is a "Mold Heater" that is a small round component that looks like an inline fuse on the (typically) Blue or Black wire. That should be held in contact with the bottom of the mold by a stainless spring clip to heat and release the ice.
Hi, i have Kitchenaid fridge KSRS27CNSS00. my ice maker does not work. I jumper H and T and it is harvesting manually and fill valve working, laser for ice level has 2 blinks n 1 second delay and red solid light when flipper is not in way. I replaced cycling thermostat and closed the fridge for 24 hour. Strated for test and it made icein auto. Then i stopped the fridge again for approximately 2 hours for cleaning and putting shelves back. Now again it is not marking ice. Would you please tell me what should I check now. Thanks
Depending on the model, there is a water level adjustment (cube size) knob (on some) or a screw. They will adjust the water fill time equating to a volume. One complete turn typically increases water volume by 40cc or so. Small cubes may also be a sign of low water pressure.
My ice maker makes ice but seems to leak excess water ok lol water fro ice try but then I can pour about 4 ox of water which is barely half full but water runs out of ice make at left front corner on side where a single wire bail tripper for ice is . It is about on 2 ice cube side and I runs like a stream , I removed I’ve maker and carried to sink and poured water in and I held I level an no water ran out but when taking ice maker out of refrigerator the bottom screw seemed lose even on bracket mountin to hold underside of ice maker the two to screws seemed ok but could front corner be dropping down or should I look for hold in ice tray Tha Ge side by side model TFx 24JRXA WW. Serial number HM 239092 bought on Nov 15 1995. . All water seems to fill ok but we have noticed for months that extra water got 8th Icebucket to freeze under the ice crusher or cube dispenser and we remove ice bucket to free frozen ice cube or ice block that stopped ice from coming out but worked fine when new ice was made again . So it appears the water leak from ice maker has been around for awhile but bad just lately . Cutting all water off to refrigerator and no water in there but less than 4 ounces and water runs out of ice tray although no wher half full . Do you think just buy a new ice maker , or what I see no crack but if I hold it very level and pour in 4 ounces of water , it just don’t seem to leak. ,, could being out of level in refrigerator cause it to run to front outer corner to leak water in hairline crack I can’t see any leakage. . What control how much water comes into ice maker. Could the water valves behind refrigerator control the amount and not shutting off ? Looking at ice tray from bottom , where water runs out next to heart tube , there looks like there could be a small hairline like where it vibrated over years being loose on lower screw to cause the tray to have possible tiny crack because there is metal as if it were worn but after removing ice maker and balancing over bowls level and manual added 8 oz of water through back fill cup to fill tray , I can see no leak . But when it was on refrigerator it was flowing like water from a solid stream . But when removing . Top screws that it hangs on were fairly snug but not over tighten but bottom screws was really loose could it just not been tight enough to cause water to overflow or is their control in head of ice maker that controls amount of water that fills trays .?.. help please refrigerator has wheels but does not roll , been sitting I guess to long and heavy for me !!
Before watching this video I ordered a new module. Installed and it still doesn’t work. It works with the jumper. The brand new one and the other both work with the jumper but not without. The fridge is about a year old and has only made one bucket of ice ever. Please help.
F C mine ended up being the little switch that turns the light off then the freezer closes. I taped it shut and it work. I tried to take tape off and adjust the door so it makes the switch which it does and the light goes off but still doesn’t make it enough to make ice. So I had to leave mine tapped 🤷🏻♂️
@@joshlawing3492 Thank You for this comment. I spent days trying to figure out what was going on, running all kinds of tests and could not find the problem. I read your comment, taped the switch closed and it works. The switch is the issue. Thanks Again!
did not demonstrate cleaning the points. I want to see how cleaning is done. How do I know if I'm doing the cleaning correctly. Otherwise video was okay.
Make sure the power is off. Just use some 500 grit or finer emery cloth or wet dry sand paper (dry) and cut it into a 1" strip, fold in half and put it between the points and lightly burnish (sand) the points to remove any carbon build up. They should be shiny when done. Don't use sprays or chemicals. Hope this helps.
I've been struggling for months to diagnose the intermittent problems I was having with my icemaker. Like others, I checked out a lot of TH-cam videos that didn't address my problem. And then I came upon this one and learned there was a set of contacts that might need cleaning. Took me about 10 mins. to confirm that, yep, that was all I needed to do. Now it's working perfectly. Thanks VanTek for posting this video.
Perfect, glad it was an easy fix.
Thank You! Outstanding! I never would have known that my ice maker had a set of contact breaker points like an old distributor from an old car. WooHoo!!!
Same as so many others you helped. Intermittent problem was getting worse until it wouldn’t work at all. It would make ice but was unable to harvest it. I cleaned up the points and it functions normally now.
Thank you for your help.
excellent pin pointing visually instead of just talking about it. Great close up.. Very detailed and explained well. Excellent instructions.
Thank you.
You are the only person who showed us how to save our ice maker. You are my hero. Thank you!
Thank you, glad to help.
Out of all the videos you were right sir, I cleaned it up, it worked, thank you!
Thanks for the video. Yours is the only one showing the arms should be snapped in properly for the maker to be on. We were thinking ours is broken as it turned out one arm is in the wrong hole. Saved us a lot of trouble.
Very good video gives very good understanding of what needs to be done to fix the problem.
Thanks!
Cleaned up the contacts (points) and got my ice makers working again. Thanks a bunch!
Excellent! Glad to help.
You are welcome.
What did you clean the points with?
Very good, but how did you know it wasn't the thermostat that senses the mold temp?
Nice tip my frind finaly found some thing that match myb problem thank you
This was MY problem. Whats SAD is .. this is the ONLY TIME I see someone post THIS. ..
Very good video been looking for this information all day......the best one...out there
Well done. Good knowledgeable info.
Thanks! This is exactly the problem I'm having. I'm going to try this solution tomorrow and hopefully that will be it. Thanks. Well done vid, too, btw.
Thanks Jonathan, the one in the video is going on 7 months since repair and still working great. Hope you have the same luck.
These are pretty simple devices that work with basic make-break type of connections. My guess is that the level bar contacts are dirty/corroded so not making an electrical connection so harvest doesn't stop. You would have to lightly clean the contacts for the bar with some 500 grit sand paper. As long as there have been no adjustments made they should be set so hollow ice (a shell) means that the cycle is maybe skipping or accelerated, since dirty contacts can cause failure of an electrical connection, which is why a cycle stops, runs past and then causes a short harvest because it activates the next step. When you disassemble to clean , take pictures and take your time, clean the contacts and see how that works out. It usually fixes most issues. Good luck.
good video..thank you to the people who do this.. I need to call a repair man. dang
very useful.. thank u!
This is happing to mine. I’m going to see if that is what it is. Thank you sir.
Excellent video thanks
Thanks you !!!very good explaining !!!!
You're welcome and thank you.
Great help
good information, thank you
Good video...
A little aside for mine though. I have a harvesting issue where the ice maker won't complete the cycle. Replaced the water supply valve from the pipe in the basement. Replaced the filter. great water flow and ice size at this point. It will harvest from the start but cycle stops when the wheel is at about the 10 o'clock postion. (The ice about vertical). To get it to finish have to use a hair dryer or reach in and pop the ice loose... Is this the contact issue you spoke of in the video?
Great video and instructions. Is there a thermostat on the module that could be the problem also? I have this issue and will clean the points as shown but curious how to know which component is the problem. Once I do the points I guess I’ll know that answer correct? Thanks.
hey. i got this exact ice maker. my issue is that it never goes into harvest mode. the pointer on my ice maker is just barely past the harvest bypass terminals (roughly 5 o clock position) if i bypass it, the heater doesnt kick on (i think its normal i heard somewhere else).
EXCELLENT JOB
Thank you very much!
Liked the video, will try to clean up contact points. I have a question though. Last year I diagnosed a failed water valve selonoid in the same fridge you showed in the video. I could not find an exact replacement part. "discontinued"? I found one that looked as though it might work, modified the mounting bracket and made it work. I seems to be for a smaller ice maker of some kind as it will not completely fill the tray. I get about 3/4 of the ice i should. The water adjustment does not really do anything to help. Any ideas, or maybe you can suggest a different selenoid that will give me the right volume of water? Thanks.
Great Video
What would cause one to run all the time. Never stops the cycle. Thanks
I got a brand new water valve and whatever failure mode is saying is that the ice solenoid is being energized all the time so water flows into the icemaker all the time. I took apart the icemaker and I’m very familiar with its functionality. I just can’t figure out how the solenoid is being powered constantly for the ice. It looks identical to yours. It only has the two gears and none of the test ports that some of these ice makers have line yours
I have to he exact same ice maker I’ve fixed it about 5 times in 9 years. I’ve replaced the whole ice maker, then the dial on front, I’ve made 1 out of 2 with all the spare parts I’ve accumulated over the years. Only thing is mine has a on/off rocker switch. I recently replaced that rocker switch and now it makes ice again but it only cycles when that switch is on, which makes sense, but when the switch is on my blower fan in the back of the ice maker doesn’t run. As soon as I turn that switch off the fan comes on. Which is probably the way it’s supposed to work, but if I leave it turned in over night my fridge won’t cool. So every day I have to let my ice maker cycle, keep an eye on it and let it make some ice, then flick the switch so my fridge will cool. If the fan is running, and I turn the rocker on, the fan will still run but as soon as I press the door light button the fan stops running. It’s almost like the switch either allows it to make ice or cool the fridge. Not both. Where before I never had that problem. I’m stumped
Helpful video, the center rotator on mines stays engage and it won’t stop and water won’t go in the ice maker. Have you even seen that problem?
If you tried cleaning the contacts and it still does the same thing there is most likely an issue with the module. All of the start stop functions are contact based. Modules can be replaced but I found it's just easier to replace the entire unit.
I have a Whirlpool side by side that uses an electronic ice level emitter instead of the wire bail to sense the ice level and shut off the icemaker. Does my icemaker also have the points or is the unit different?
Stamped copper contact points are typically selectively plated to create a self-healing surface, or at least not oxidize rapidly. Otherwise they form a copper oxide rectifier like a 1960’s HO train transformer. That raspberry sound a land line telephone in poor condition used to make periodically was the oxide layer diode breaking down and then re-forming and doing it again. When you burnish the contacts you strip off the plating. It would be better to clean them with an electrical cleaner. When they’re clean if they don’t function and they show a really rough deeply pitted surface there’s nothing to lose by burnishing the surfaces. If you burnish them you’ll end up doing that every few hundred cycles until they’re burned through, but refrigerators don;t last forever so not putting a new ice maker in an old fridge can make sense.
If your initial jump has no affect does that mean the whole ice maker needs to be replaced?
Ice maker makes rotating noise..no water?
So I'm also having a problem with my whirlpool icemaker and wondering after I do the manual thing how long does it take before ice starts to produce?
Hi What is the solution on my refrigerator, Water is dropping from the ice maker and stock it on the container ice
The tray is worn out and most likely has a pinhole in it. Cheaper to just replace the unit than rebuild.
Video helpful. I just replace my ice maker with same symptoms. Would only harvest manually everything else works. New ice maker doing same thing. Any ideas.
If you just installed it, the first harvest can take up to 24 hours, then it should start cycling regularly.
@@vantekhome244 It went through 2 harvests in the first 2 hours and seemed to stop. I waited about 24 hours and did a manual override. It did a couple harvests and seemed to stop again. Now 24 hrs. is seems to be working properly. Thanks.
I have a whirlpool ice maker similar to yours iin the video. After I do a manual harvest the maker will auto cycle 2-4 times making cubes, then it will stop. Any ideas???
When it stops is the tray full or empty? If there is water in the tray frozen, then I would suspect the contacts, if the tray doesn't fill some folk have had issues with the door switch and have taped it down (hopefully only to test) and it worked. The door switch shuts of the fill valve so while the maker may be cycling on the timer, the tray never fills with water.
Question... my module isn't rotating however I don't see any water being brought up there either. Is the job of the module only to spin when ice isn't full or is it also to tell the valve to open and close? Thx
It's basically a rotary switch, which goes through the progression of making ice. Calls for water, tray fills, then x-time passes, lets say 2 hours, it then signals the tray heater to release the cubes. When that's done it signals the motor to rotate the fingers and harvest, then back to step one.
@@vantekhome7783 thanks for the reply. I guess my question is about the "calling of water ". I don't see any water so I'm trying to figure out if the issue is if my unit is falling water but the valve doesn't send any or if the module stopped asking for water and the valve is fine. Thx
Motor stops at the start of the new cycle
Why
My Whirlpool ice maker make ice but doesn't shut off ice Production when the Bin is full, Just piles up over the Bar! Doesn't seem like the Bar is working Correctly? Also the ice is Hollow not Solid? Adjustment maybe? Thanks for any help You can give.
These are pretty simple devices that work with basic make-break type of connections. My guess is that the level bar contacts are dirty/corroded so not making an electrical connection so harvest doesn't stop. You would have to lightly clean the contacts for the bar with some 500 grit sand paper. As long as there have been no adjustments made they should be set so hollow ice (a shell) means that the cycle is maybe skipping or accelerated, since dirty contacts can cause failure of an electrical connection, which is why a cycle stops, runs past and then causes a short harvest because it activates the next step. When you disassemble to clean , take pictures and take your time, clean the contacts and see how that works out. It usually fixes most issues. Good luck.
Hollow ice if often because the fridge filter needs changing. Make sure your fridge isn't set to extra ice production. If ice isn't used often enough, you may just need to manually turn the icemaker off until you've used most of the ice.
Did all you directed, but during harvest test it does not cycle. Previously harvesting had been very intermittent. So cleaning points no go. Bad module?
Edit, removed whole unit. Discovered fingers frozen solid in the ice. In previous testing I'd done a water dispense cycle, overfilling tray and locking everything in upon freezing. Reinstalled after thawing. Btw, the wiring harness has an inline fuse, held in the back of the unit by a fuse holder. Only measured .1 ohms.
If the tray over filled there would have to have been a change to the level screw. I don't recommend doing any adjustments to the module.
A fuse should measure close to 0 Ohms unless it's open in which case it would measure OL or Out of Limit (meaning that it is beyond the test meters measurement capabilities i.e. a Mega-Ohm meter would read >99 M-Ohms and a Giga-Ohm would be >999 G-Ohms), these ranges get confusing to some so manufacturers typically go with OL on the display.
As far as I know (and according to the schematics) there is no fuse in the wiring harness, there is a "Mold Heater" that is a small round component that looks like an inline fuse on the (typically) Blue or Black wire. That should be held in contact with the bottom of the mold by a stainless spring clip to heat and release the ice.
Hi, i have Kitchenaid fridge KSRS27CNSS00. my ice maker does not work. I jumper H and T and it is harvesting manually and fill valve working, laser for ice level has 2 blinks n 1 second delay and red solid light when flipper is not in way. I replaced cycling thermostat and closed the fridge for 24 hour. Strated for test and it made icein auto. Then i stopped the fridge again for approximately 2 hours for cleaning and putting shelves back. Now again it is not marking ice. Would you please tell me what should I check now. Thanks
how do I adjust what size of the cubes are made
Depending on the model, there is a water level adjustment (cube size) knob (on some) or a screw. They will adjust the water fill time equating to a volume. One complete turn typically increases water volume by 40cc or so. Small cubes may also be a sign of low water pressure.
An emery board and a q-tip with some contact cleaner
My ice maker makes ice but seems to leak excess water ok lol water fro ice try but then I can pour about 4 ox of water which is barely half full but water runs out of ice make at left front corner on side where a single wire bail tripper for ice is . It is about on 2 ice cube side and I runs like a stream , I removed I’ve maker and carried to sink and poured water in and I held I level an no water ran out but when taking ice maker out of refrigerator the bottom screw seemed lose even on bracket mountin to hold underside of ice maker the two to screws seemed ok but could front corner be dropping down or should I look for hold in ice tray Tha Ge side by side model TFx 24JRXA WW. Serial number HM 239092 bought on Nov 15 1995. . All water seems to fill ok but we have noticed for months that extra water got 8th Icebucket to freeze under the ice crusher or cube dispenser and we remove ice bucket to free frozen ice cube or ice block that stopped ice from coming out but worked fine when new ice was made again . So it appears the water leak from ice maker has been around for awhile but bad just lately . Cutting all water off to refrigerator and no water in there but less than 4 ounces and water runs out of ice tray although no wher half full . Do you think just buy a new ice maker , or what I see no crack but if I hold it very level and pour in 4 ounces of water , it just don’t seem to leak. ,, could being out of level in refrigerator cause it to run to front outer corner to leak water in hairline crack I can’t see any leakage. . What control how much water comes into ice maker. Could the water valves behind refrigerator control the amount and not shutting off ? Looking at ice tray from bottom , where water runs out next to heart tube , there looks like there could be a small hairline like where it vibrated over years being loose on lower screw to cause the tray to have possible tiny crack because there is metal as if it were worn but after removing ice maker and balancing over bowls level and manual added 8 oz of water through back fill cup to fill tray , I can see no leak . But when it was on refrigerator it was flowing like water from a solid stream . But when removing . Top screws that it hangs on were fairly snug but not over tighten but bottom screws was really loose could it just not been tight enough to cause water to overflow or is their control in head of ice maker that controls amount of water that fills trays .?.. help please refrigerator has wheels but does not roll , been sitting I guess to long and heavy for me !!
Before watching this video I ordered a new module. Installed and it still doesn’t work. It works with the jumper. The brand new one and the other both work with the jumper but not without. The fridge is about a year old and has only made one bucket of ice ever. Please help.
Josh LAwing same issue
F C mine ended up being the little switch that turns the light off then the freezer closes. I taped it shut and it work. I tried to take tape off and adjust the door so it makes the switch which it does and the light goes off but still doesn’t make it enough to make ice. So I had to leave mine tapped 🤷🏻♂️
@@joshlawing3492 Thank You for this comment. I spent days trying to figure out what was going on, running all kinds of tests and could not find the problem. I read your comment, taped the switch closed and it works. The switch is the issue. Thanks Again!
ref my previous comment. I have also replaced the water inlet valve. I have tried 3 ice makers and all do the same thing.
But I’ve had this issue on two NEW units.
classic music
did not demonstrate cleaning the points. I want to see how cleaning is done. How do I know if I'm doing the cleaning correctly. Otherwise video was okay.
Make sure the power is off. Just use some 500 grit or finer emery cloth or wet dry sand paper (dry) and cut it into a 1" strip, fold in half and put it between the points and lightly burnish (sand) the points to remove any carbon build up. They should be shiny when done. Don't use sprays or chemicals. Hope this helps.
I cleaned the points and still doesn't cycle?
What if the motor or contacts are burnt out? 😂
If you bought a new, but still not make no ice at all.
Duh.😂
Hurry up! Show dont talk.