*Templates, Plans and Parts List* *3 or 5 Holes Templates (comes with PDF Plans and dxf files for CNC)* shop.kmtools.com/templates *Digital Plans for 3 and 5 Hole (comes with dxf files for CNC)* shop.kmtools.com/plans *Parts Used* Plastic Duct Connector (2 pack) amzn.to/3BlbuUx Spring Plunger Ring (2 pack) amzn.to/3BlibWs Threaded Insert Multi Pack amzn.to/3vSpTq7 4"x20' Dust Collection Hose amzn.to/3jKBdjk 4" Hose Clamps (10 pack) amzn.to/3bm5AYs ---- *Time Stamps* *Intro and Build Overview* 0:00 *Breaking Down Plywood* 1:48 *Glue Up and Build Tips* 2:23 *Cutting Pieces to Size* 4:19 *Cutting Holes How To* 4:40 *Drilling Holes and Carriage* 8:12 *Assembly and Finish* 11:23 *Hardware* 13:08 *Sexy Montage* 13:51 *Use and Final Thoughts* 14:31
Awesome idea. What are the dimensions for the 3 and 5 hole versions? I did not see in your store and trying to determine which would fit best for me. Thanks!
I learned a trick two weeks back with the big hole saws. Use a hand drill with the clutch dialed down two steps below drill mode. The clutch would activate whenever the hole saw caught, allowing me to reposition slightly and continue. This also extended my batter life during the project.
Man, *dust collection brings out the opinions. Couple things:* This is a dust collection component and not an entire system solution. It has rigid PVC run about 18" away from it and is within 3 ft of all the tools it services. Flex hose can reduce airflow if used for long runs. If you want to use magnets it would take some seriously expensive magnets because under negative air pressure load your carriage and flex hose are going to be pulled very hard towards the dust collector. The spring loaded pin I use is an elegant, cheap solution. There are no leaks whatsoever. Under negative pressure your DC system will suck the carriage to the manifold with an air tight seal. Setting up an entire dust collection system is complex and I suggest you watch some more of my DC videos about setting up an entire system if that is the stage you are at in your journey. Although grounding your system is good practice static electricity can NOT blow up a dust collector. We will have a video proving this out in December or January. We've shot a lot of it but are waiting for the slomo camera to finish. It will even have math explaining why. "But Jonathan, I've seen videos of dust collection and grain silo explosions." Yes you have seen giant (talking 20ft high) industrial dust/grain storage containers explode. This is from overfilling and an outside ignition source or combining metal and woodworking together in the same extractor. Not from static discharge and I can prove it.
Why would you need expensive magnets if you wanted do do a magnet version? I would have thought that as long as the host is close to being aligned, the suction would pull everything closed. It sounds like you've given it some serious thought and/or testing, and I'm curious what happens if you use dinky little magnets.
As an industrial electrician, who has drilled many holes in electrical boxes, drilling in reverse stops the initial grabbing and then you can continue drilling forward. for wood, this would mean an extra long pilot bit in the hole saw with a revers cur to the drill bit. A company called Racketeers makes a reverse cutting drill bit and I'm sure they might be able to make a longer version for woodworking and drilling holes with the larger hole saws. Great video and looking forward to implementing something like this in my small shop.
@@Nicoya Easier said than done most times. Working on a compressor station and only having one or two knockout sets they were hard to come by when you needed one. Also Cutting holes in Stainless steel dulled the normal cutter heads after only a couple of holes. Carbide hole saws were the way to go for that, if the company didn't supply them. The larger the hole, the more expensive the punch set got and most companies weren't willing to put out that kind of money for just a few holes. A Milwaukee Hole Hawg set was my choice. With a left hand pilot bit, I broke very few of them starting the holes.
Hahaha thanks bud. We're designing a bunch of French Cleat stuff right now. I'm jealous you can find that black melamine. Looks sooooo cool. Let's meet this week. Would love to work with you
great concept! One suggestion, add 1 extra station with no hole cut (just pin location) this location becomes a “free” Blast gate, for now and allows you to add another machine later if necessary.
Screws in the circles for clamping pressure sounds ideal. Just remove before cutting them out. Great project! I'm doing an upgrade in my shop right now so this solves a lot of problems. Thanks ☺️
Great idea! I didn't study other posts below, so I apologize if I duplicate. First thing I thought of is an application for my shop: I would need two "two-holers" (instead of three or five). But I would dimension each platform for three holes, leaving one of the positions uncutout. That way, I could slide the trolly over the blank area which would create effectively a closed gate. Then I can go downstream and have my next setup operable. I hope I've communicated...
WOW. I was gonna make several blast gates to make the whole system but reluctant. This way I can save a lot of time making gates and also don't have to worry about forgetting closing each gate. I would run back and forth between machines to close and open gates respectively , when I switch operation. I will employ this system for my shop. Thanks Jonathan. Don't explode this.
Everything happens for a reason. I've been hemming and hawing over just how to layout my dust collection. This video tied with how I am going to mount the dust collector completes my dust collection design. What I really like is that I can tie in PVC to some of the ports and flex hose for the others. The only difference is I might do two 3 ports, and use a splitter with one blast gate to split the flex hose between both switcher's. Thank you for this.
It's a great idea and a way to avoid the cost and clutter of blast gates. I built a similar switch a couple years ago for my shop vac, but I didn't need any pins since it was only for two ducts, then a year ago I built another one for three ducts, and I use a long aluminum pop rivet to lock the vac hose in the center position. The spring loaded pin would be a nifty addition - thanks for that tidbit!
You just made my ADHD brain very happy. I'm about to re-pipe my dust extraction in a very few days and was having trouble visualizing the number of gates and Y's I'd need. You just saved me a ton of money on shop infrastructure.
I've seen similar ideas. I really like your locking pin concept, simple, precise and secure. I'm thinking that if I make one like this, and have one extra position but don't cut out the port hole, it will also function as a blast gate for the whole tool cluster. I just noticed that another viewer is thinking along the same lines! My small shop would best be configured as 2 clusters to keep the run lengths as short as possible. Great video as always.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
Very cool! I’m still doing the “bring the hose from one tool to another” thing. I may need to consider this when I get around to redoing the dust collection.
This looks like a really good solution for a small shop if you only use the flex hose for short runs. And some woodworkers seem to like to make everything from wood. A different approach. I find I often switch back and forth between two (or occasionally three) machines when doing a project. Thus I bent up a sheet metal funnel for the single hose side and a sheet metal manifold for the five hose side and incorporated a shop-made waste gate for each of the 5 holes (inexpensive when you are using sheet metal anyway). Now I can run the jointer & planer together or the jointer & planer & table saw together or add a drill press operation with any cutting operation all without having to run over a reset the suction hose between each operation. I just set up the waste gates for the tool combination I'm using. This does assume you have enough air flow to do this--but if you don't, you probably have a very underpowered dust collection system anyway.
Great video! I'm newer to woodworking and find both inspiration and the desire to quit entirely when watching how skillful you are. Keep the content coming, boss!
I enjoyed this video. I'm setting up a new shop and will probably use your idea, but plan to use solid PVC for the longer runs and save the flex hose for short runs. I made a similar manifold for a 2-1/2" hose system using standard PVC plumbing joints in a stack with a blast gate at each hose point. It works, but I really need a 4" system that moves more air. Your solution is great.
Great concept. In my shop I need two of these for all my tools requiring dust collection. I will leave one port undrilled so I can shut the unit off and use the other. Or I will put a plug in the discharge.
I have been an Electrician for 43 years and hole saws to cut steel is part of the game. I've never had any issues with cutting steel cabinets with a hole saw but there are some rules. #1. Go slow. #2 lubricate. #3. stay straight. #4. Use one that's sharp. As I said very easy unless some Yahoo used it before I get it and burned it up, never have I had any issues. So all that being said, wood should be a piece of cake. Oh I am a wood worker as well and yes it is a piece of cake and leaves a clean hole, and with a drill press well that's just the icing on the cake. I have 3/8" up to 8" hole saws.
purchased! I have been trying to design something like this for my channel for a few years now. But with other content I haven't had time. Thanks dude! This will be a big help!
thank you Katz. funny story on shop aprons if you like . i was working in south texas as a motor machinists in the summer so hot on a friday using an angle grinder at chest high . when i thought man its a scorcher today . yup the apron was on fire .
Very cool. That would be very useful the way I have my tools laid out in my garage and take maximum advantage of my limited dust collection capability. Well done. Thanks.
This system will not solve the problem with the common dust removal pipe in my case! That is, each machine needs its own pipe, and this is a place and money! And the idea is just a delight! You're Super!
I like the stains and marks on your apron because it tells a story of its life and adds an extra layer of interest for me wondering how the heck that particular mark might have got on your apron lol
Very nice concept. One detail I would probably change is to have the end brackets come up flush to the top of the guide rails thereby preventing the carriage from coming out either end of the raceway.
Great solution and video jonathan. I'm the video you highlighted hole saws, they are really just designed for construction work but there is a need for more suitable version for finer woodworking. I've looked and can't find anything well made that fits this need. Imagine a thinner kerfed well made model with 12tpi or even more. (Next product idea)?
I really wish YT allowed GIF comments. Everyone just pretend like I used the "Clever Girl" raptor scene from Jurassic Park and it was really funny. Great idea and vid dude.
Quick idea Jonathan. Why not add a product to your tool line that is something to wipe your fingers on and be able to later rip it off and toss out. So like post it’s but made of like 30 slices of the blue shop paper towels that a lot of us have but made in a smaller size and could be added with a magnet behind the apron or a more solid pertinent clip on added to future aprons. ?
Fantastic idea... routing for dust collection is on my to do list. I had it all designed and planned out, but this is going to cause me to re-think my design. Thanks as always for the great content!
Great idea! Maybe I missed it but I would hog out most of those holes with a jigsaw, then just flush trim bit to finish it out. Lotta different ways to get those holes done (ladies n gents etc)
😂😂 yep. I ahate my jigsaw so almost never use it. It was like $20 new. I should just buy a new one but I always forget until the 3 times a year I actually need it. You know what, I'm out of shampoo. Going to buy shampoo and a jigsaw right now from Dr Evil and his penis rockets.
@@katzmosestools Honestly my entire perspective is what makes less of a mess on the floor I gotta sweep up later. My jigsaw is a fancy festool, but its an older corded one. I hate screwing around with plugging it in so I also don't use it as much. But I would rather check a cheap jigsaw blade than wear on a fancy router bit. Those b&b ones look like they last a long time though, I gotta check those out soon! Bonus points for the almost astronaut ref there, that took me a minute!
This is the right way to do it, the suction creates a great seal. Looks a lot like the one I made to choose between my miter saw and benchtop sanders, I don't have the cool latching positioner though.
I almost always enjoy your videos, and learn something. This looked interesting. It reminded me of some manifold-style blast gates I’ve seen. However, I seem to be missing something - the advantage(s) of this approach may seem obvious, but were never really identified. Please explain how this would be used, and why. Thanks.
You’re using your combo square to line up the fence for a lot of your cuts - curious to learn more here. I don’t think this has been discussed in a previous accuracy video (apologies if it has). My understanding is that one of the benefits of nicer saws is that you can rely on the fence gauge - is that incorrect? Also, are there any concerns about compounded error with the kerf, since you have to add 1/8” to the combo square? Is the kerf reliably dead-on 1/8”? Thanks a lot in advance, I really appreciate how much you manage to respond to questions 👍.
I recently installed a new Oneida v3000, with five inch to four inch flex as a temp setup. Getting all my 6 large machines to function for work flow in a small 11 by 21 space is a pain. Had to rearrange twice now. At this point I am ready for a permanent solution to the dust collection piping. Two of these 3 setups maybe the ticket.
before I saw the pin setup I thought you would maybe do this with a strong magnet under the trolley and interface with something ferrous in the carriage. Then you could operate this one handed, which is generally more than I have anyway.
My hole saws are also fairly grabby, but they are bometal and maybe better than the one used Inn the video. But, question- does anyone make a fine tooth hole saw/kit..? I don't see any around... Great video..🥃
Nice! Now you just need to add a stepper motor with a screw connected to the carriage so that an Arduino (that interfaces with current sensors on each tool) can rotate the screw to precisely position the carriage depending on which tool is powered up……..
Great build and good space saver for the amount of hook ups. Is your plan to place this in the middle and replace the PVC cluster your showed as comparison? Or do you have other tools there to use this with by the wall?
This is a great idea! And hole saws are really only useful for sheetrock or metal. Even then I would rather use a rotozip tool in sheetrock to make the hole.
Great idea Jonathan, thanks! Curious about the makita Brad nailer. I haven’t found one that small before I.e. easier to handle. What model is it? Keep up your great work.
Its tough but maybe in the future. Some people get upset when I just convert the measurements to metric because you end up getting decimals like 225.4 MM. I don't have the resources to redesign 22 pages worth of step by step plans for two measurement systems.
@@katzmosestools That makes sense 🙂 still it would be nice. An other viewer replyed to me with a good idea that I could buy an imperial tape measure! Great idea I Think I Will do that 😉
Looks great. Suggest a magnetic panel across the front with a card attached showing which tool the hose goes to. Especially relevant in a shared space. Keep up the good work.
Awsome Idea, BTW .. I know you were talking at some point of having your watches channel, is it still a thing? ... what the smart watch you are wearning now? looks good.
Still in the works but we had to press pause while we launch Katz-Moses Tools. I may be a psycho workaholic but there's only so many hours in the day I'm not on Dad duty (which is the best job in the world) hahaha. It's a Samsung 41mm watch with an after market bezel sticker that makes it look like the Rolex Explorer II. Man I love watches. I have way too many and can't wait to share them with TH-cam.
once had to drill an 8" round hole in a freshly-delivered $35,000 reception station, made from white HPL-laminated MDF, with a power outlet right behind it, while crouched under the desk with a hand drill. It skipped once and made a big gouge next to the hole with the first attempt. Got it on the 2nd, but holy crap...my wrist hurt for 2 weeks, even with the drill's extra cross-handle. Such an awkward hole to drill, and terrifying.
Wow, really nice dust collection switcher, I think that is a good idea for a small workshop! Maybe I'm going to build that when I upgrade my dust collection system. Nice job
How about using a jigsaw to cut most of the hole and finish with the router? I just dislike turning large pieces of wood to sawdust/shavings unless it's much faster to do so. Funny how at first this seemed like a less elegant and more cumbersome version than blast gates, but is it? You have to move this when you switch a machine, but you have to do it with blast gates as well. And you only need to move this once as opposed to close your current machines blast gate and open the next one.
@@katzmosestools I have the 5" orbital sanders that I use the big box store hook & loop paper. I watch over 160 TH-cam channels . I watch your channel a lot.
Very interesting. I can see where the manifold plus long lengths of flexible hose connected to each machine might be the best answer. I thought and think that the best suction is from having the longest possible lengths of inflexible smooth hose and the shortest possible lengths of ribbed hose. I can’t see how that set up and your manifold could go together. Please tell me if I’m right (a response which I will immediately forward to my wife to show that I can be right. Sometimes. Never against her though) or if I have misunderstood the potential of the manifold.
@@katzmosestools thanks for the reply. I saw that rigid piece with the extractor as as possible to the manifold. It was really the flexible hose from the manifold to each machine. As I said, this highly flexible solution is the best solution; for us with fairly static machines, would it be better to have a more traditional set up of as much rigid pipe as possible and the shortest possible length of flexible? All these questions and thoughts are really relevant to me as I’m thinking about the piping for the new workshop. To begin with, I’m going to be using my existing 1hp dust extractor with cyclone. I have one flexible hose from the splitter to the table saw and the other outlet from the Y piece goes via flexible hose to whichever machine i need it on via a quick change system. I hope the time I will need to get the pennies together for the 3hp extractor will also enable me to work out the best positions for each machine. I was also wondering if the manifold system would work with a flexible 6” hose from the extractor as you have it and then have rigid 6” pipe from each machine to the manifold. I wonder if this solution would result in the use of less piping than “normal”. I would probably also have to invert the manifold so the flexible, movable part is underneath the manifold so that the rigid pipes could go up and over the ceiling to each machine.
It’s not really a “one or the other” deal… I would suggest flipping the manifold over, running the rigid pipes directly to the top of the manifold (which would be located very near the dust collector/chip separator) then you just have a short piece of flexible hose from the carriage to the dust collector.
@@donny_bahama thanks for that. It was that kind of set up that I was trying (badly) to explain. The downside of that adaption, I think, is that I would 3, 4 or 5 lengths of 6” rigid pipe going from near the extractor to each machine rather than the “normal” of one main 6” rigid pipe going around the shop with a Y fitting down to each machine. Again, just thinking in print, I do sometimes have 2 machines working at the same time - for instance when I am re-sawing, I typically re-joint the board after each cut. At the moment, I have 2 blast gates open which obviously means less suction to each but, with the manifold, I would have to go back to it each time. I’m sure there is no perfect solution and every one has positives and negatives. There are times when I hate choice.
*Templates, Plans and Parts List*
*3 or 5 Holes Templates (comes with PDF Plans and dxf files for CNC)* shop.kmtools.com/templates
*Digital Plans for 3 and 5 Hole (comes with dxf files for CNC)* shop.kmtools.com/plans
*Parts Used*
Plastic Duct Connector (2 pack) amzn.to/3BlbuUx
Spring Plunger Ring (2 pack) amzn.to/3BlibWs
Threaded Insert Multi Pack amzn.to/3vSpTq7
4"x20' Dust Collection Hose amzn.to/3jKBdjk
4" Hose Clamps (10 pack) amzn.to/3bm5AYs
----
*Time Stamps*
*Intro and Build Overview* 0:00
*Breaking Down Plywood* 1:48
*Glue Up and Build Tips* 2:23
*Cutting Pieces to Size* 4:19
*Cutting Holes How To* 4:40
*Drilling Holes and Carriage* 8:12
*Assembly and Finish* 11:23
*Hardware* 13:08
*Sexy Montage* 13:51
*Use and Final Thoughts* 14:31
Awesome idea. What are the dimensions for the 3 and 5 hole versions? I did not see in your store and trying to determine which would fit best for me. Thanks!
BB
After fracturing my thumb with a 6" holesaw I discovered that if you run the saw in reverse it's a lot easier
Nice work. Do you think that it will work as good if l installed upside down.
I learned a trick two weeks back with the big hole saws. Use a hand drill with the clutch dialed down two steps below drill mode. The clutch would activate whenever the hole saw caught, allowing me to reposition slightly and continue. This also extended my batter life during the project.
Man, *dust collection brings out the opinions. Couple things:*
This is a dust collection component and not an entire system solution. It has rigid PVC run about 18" away from it and is within 3 ft of all the tools it services. Flex hose can reduce airflow if used for long runs.
If you want to use magnets it would take some seriously expensive magnets because under negative air pressure load your carriage and flex hose are going to be pulled very hard towards the dust collector. The spring loaded pin I use is an elegant, cheap solution.
There are no leaks whatsoever. Under negative pressure your DC system will suck the carriage to the manifold with an air tight seal.
Setting up an entire dust collection system is complex and I suggest you watch some more of my DC videos about setting up an entire system if that is the stage you are at in your journey.
Although grounding your system is good practice static electricity can NOT blow up a dust collector. We will have a video proving this out in December or January. We've shot a lot of it but are waiting for the slomo camera to finish. It will even have math explaining why. "But Jonathan, I've seen videos of dust collection and grain silo explosions." Yes you have seen giant (talking 20ft high) industrial dust/grain storage containers explode. This is from overfilling and an outside ignition source or combining metal and woodworking together in the same extractor. Not from static discharge and I can prove it.
Why would you need expensive magnets if you wanted do do a magnet version? I would have thought that as long as the host is close to being aligned, the suction would pull everything closed. It sounds like you've given it some serious thought and/or testing, and I'm curious what happens if you use dinky little magnets.
As an industrial electrician, who has drilled many holes in electrical boxes, drilling in reverse stops the initial grabbing and then you can continue drilling forward. for wood, this would mean an extra long pilot bit in the hole saw with a revers cur to the drill bit. A company called Racketeers makes a reverse cutting drill bit and I'm sure they might be able to make a longer version for woodworking and drilling holes with the larger hole saws. Great video and looking forward to implementing something like this in my small shop.
If you're making holes in metal electrical boxes, get yourself a knockout punch set.
@@Nicoya Easier said than done most times. Working on a compressor station and only having one or two knockout sets they were hard to come by when you needed one. Also Cutting holes in Stainless steel dulled the normal cutter heads after only a couple of holes. Carbide hole saws were the way to go for that, if the company didn't supply them. The larger the hole, the more expensive the punch set got and most companies weren't willing to put out that kind of money for just a few holes. A Milwaukee Hole Hawg set was my choice. With a left hand pilot bit, I broke very few of them starting the holes.
You got it, backwards is the way.
Great I dear brother. I’ve got another dust collector coming to the shop I definitely need this system at least the three hole variety
You saw french cleat and you were drawn to it ... didn`t you?
Hahaha thanks bud. We're designing a bunch of French Cleat stuff right now. I'm jealous you can find that black melamine. Looks sooooo cool. Let's meet this week. Would love to work with you
@@katzmosestools Sounds good man. I’m available most any time to reach out whenever brother
@@sebastiendesormeaux1853 Damn right
great concept! One suggestion, add 1 extra station with no hole cut (just pin location) this location becomes a “free” Blast gate, for now and allows you to add another machine later if necessary.
Screws in the circles for clamping pressure sounds ideal. Just remove before cutting them out. Great project! I'm doing an upgrade in my shop right now so this solves a lot of problems. Thanks ☺️
In my 45 years as a woodworkers I have never seen this design! Outstanding and will solve a long standing issue in one corner of the shop.
Great idea! I didn't study other posts below, so I apologize if I duplicate. First thing I thought of is an application for my shop: I would need two "two-holers" (instead of three or five). But I would dimension each platform for three holes, leaving one of the positions uncutout. That way, I could slide the trolly over the blank area which would create effectively a closed gate. Then I can go downstream and have my next setup operable. I hope I've communicated...
WOW. I was gonna make several blast gates to make the whole system but reluctant. This way I can save a lot of time making gates and also don't have to worry about forgetting closing each gate. I would run back and forth between machines to close and open gates respectively , when I switch operation. I will employ this system for my shop. Thanks Jonathan. Don't explode this.
Everything happens for a reason. I've been hemming and hawing over just how to layout my dust collection. This video tied with how I am going to mount the dust collector completes my dust collection design. What I really like is that I can tie in PVC to some of the ports and flex hose for the others. The only difference is I might do two 3 ports, and use a splitter with one blast gate to split the flex hose between both switcher's. Thank you for this.
I think if I were making this I'd skip the pin and use magnets for alignment instead. Easy to shove back and forth and would snap right into place.
It's a great idea and a way to avoid the cost and clutter of blast gates. I built a similar switch a couple years ago for my shop vac, but I didn't need any pins since it was only for two ducts, then a year ago I built another one for three ducts, and I use a long aluminum pop rivet to lock the vac hose in the center position. The spring loaded pin would be a nifty addition - thanks for that tidbit!
You just made my ADHD brain very happy. I'm about to re-pipe my dust extraction in a very few days and was having trouble visualizing the number of gates and Y's I'd need. You just saved me a ton of money on shop infrastructure.
I've seen similar ideas. I really like your locking pin concept, simple, precise and secure. I'm thinking that if I make one like this, and have one extra position but don't cut out the port hole, it will also function as a blast gate for the whole tool cluster. I just noticed that another viewer is thinking along the same lines! My small shop would best be configured as 2 clusters to keep the run lengths as short as possible. Great video as always.
Defiantly some food for thought! I have a plan to upgrade my DC soon so this is bringing up some new ideas. Thanks as always Jonathan!
You are a gift to wood workers, especially beginners like me. Thanks for your great videos.
Such an awesome set up! Great job!
Mr. OUTLAW!
If you leave one pinned location without a hole/hose then it could be function as a closed blast gate as well.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
Fantastic system, Jonathan! 😃
Thanks a lot for the video!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very cool! I’m still doing the “bring the hose from one tool to another” thing. I may need to consider this when I get around to redoing the dust collection.
Love your stuff bro, all I'd say is, you totally should have cnc the front labeling which pipe is what tool. Apart from that, genius 👍
This looks like a really good solution for a small shop if you only use the flex hose for short runs. And some woodworkers seem to like to make everything from wood.
A different approach. I find I often switch back and forth between two (or occasionally three) machines when doing a project. Thus I bent up a sheet metal funnel for the single hose side and a sheet metal manifold for the five hose side and incorporated a shop-made waste gate for each of the 5 holes (inexpensive when you are using sheet metal anyway). Now I can run the jointer & planer together or the jointer & planer & table saw together or add a drill press operation with any cutting operation all without having to run over a reset the suction hose between each operation. I just set up the waste gates for the tool combination I'm using. This does assume you have enough air flow to do this--but if you don't, you probably have a very underpowered dust collection system anyway.
Great video! I'm newer to woodworking and find both inspiration and the desire to quit entirely when watching how skillful you are. Keep the content coming, boss!
I enjoyed this video. I'm setting up a new shop and will probably use your idea, but plan to use solid PVC for the longer runs and save the flex hose for short runs. I made a similar manifold for a 2-1/2" hose system using standard PVC plumbing joints in a stack with a blast gate at each hose point. It works, but I really need a 4" system that moves more air. Your solution is great.
Great concept. In my shop I need two of these for all my tools requiring dust collection. I will leave one port undrilled so I can shut the unit off and use the other. Or I will put a plug in the discharge.
I have been an Electrician for 43 years and hole saws to cut steel is part of the game. I've never had any issues with cutting steel cabinets with a hole saw but there are some rules. #1. Go slow. #2 lubricate. #3. stay straight. #4. Use one that's sharp. As I said very easy unless some Yahoo used it before I get it and burned it up, never have I had any issues. So all that being said, wood should be a piece of cake. Oh I am a wood worker as well and yes it is a piece of cake and leaves a clean hole, and with a drill press well that's just the icing on the cake. I have 3/8" up to 8" hole saws.
purchased! I have been trying to design something like this for my channel for a few years now. But with other content I haven't had time. Thanks dude! This will be a big help!
thank you Katz. funny story on shop aprons if you like . i was working in south texas as a motor machinists in the summer so hot on a friday using an angle grinder at chest high . when i thought man its a scorcher today . yup the apron was on fire .
I made that same setup about three years ago and love the way it works!
Very cool. That would be very useful the way I have my tools laid out in my garage and take maximum advantage of my limited dust collection capability. Well done. Thanks.
This system will not solve the problem with the common dust removal pipe in my case! That is, each machine needs its own pipe, and this is a place and money! And the idea is just a delight! You're Super!
I like the stains and marks on your apron because it tells a story of its life and adds an extra layer of interest for me wondering how the heck that particular mark might have got on your apron lol
Very nice concept. One detail I would probably change is to have the end brackets come up flush to the top of the guide rails thereby preventing the carriage from coming out either end of the raceway.
Very very nice, thanks a lot! Just a quick question: How airtight is it? Can you feel air getting sucked in on the sides of the sliding panel?
I show at the end. Completely air tight and if you ever used a store bought blast gate they leak like Swiss cheese.
@@katzmosestools Ah man, should have watched everything, not just 80-90%. Thanks for the reply, great that it works so well. Greetings from germany!
@@katzmosestools Blast gates - Indeed they do and have over my last 45 years. This is a better design. Use suction to seal!
Great solution and video jonathan. I'm the video you highlighted hole saws, they are really just designed for construction work but there is a need for more suitable version for finer woodworking. I've looked and can't find anything well made that fits this need. Imagine a thinner kerfed well made model with 12tpi or even more. (Next product idea)?
I really wish YT allowed GIF comments. Everyone just pretend like I used the "Clever Girl" raptor scene from Jurassic Park and it was really funny. Great idea and vid dude.
🤣🤣🤣
Dude this is absolutely amazing and a much easier/cheaper way than a full duct system.
Quick idea Jonathan. Why not add a product to your tool line that is something to wipe your fingers on and be able to later rip it off and toss out. So like post it’s but made of like 30 slices of the blue shop paper towels that a lot of us have but made in a smaller size and could be added with a magnet behind the apron or a more solid pertinent clip on added to future aprons. ?
Love it just love it and I just fitted DIY blast gates!! but this is so much better got 4 tools to use on the 4" system you gotta a good one here
Fantastic idea... routing for dust collection is on my to do list. I had it all designed and planned out, but this is going to cause me to re-think my design.
Thanks as always for the great content!
Just completed mine. That pin mechanism is really cool to use :)
Great idea Jonathan! Thanks for sharing the video with us!💖👍😎JP
Great idea! Maybe I missed it but I would hog out most of those holes with a jigsaw, then just flush trim bit to finish it out. Lotta different ways to get those holes done (ladies n gents etc)
😂😂 yep. I ahate my jigsaw so almost never use it. It was like $20 new. I should just buy a new one but I always forget until the 3 times a year I actually need it. You know what, I'm out of shampoo. Going to buy shampoo and a jigsaw right now from Dr Evil and his penis rockets.
@@katzmosestools Honestly my entire perspective is what makes less of a mess on the floor I gotta sweep up later. My jigsaw is a fancy festool, but its an older corded one. I hate screwing around with plugging it in so I also don't use it as much. But I would rather check a cheap jigsaw blade than wear on a fancy router bit. Those b&b ones look like they last a long time though, I gotta check those out soon! Bonus points for the almost astronaut ref there, that took me a minute!
This is the right way to do it, the suction creates a great seal. Looks a lot like the one I made to choose between my miter saw and benchtop sanders, I don't have the cool latching positioner though.
I almost always enjoy your videos, and learn something. This looked interesting. It reminded me of some manifold-style blast gates I’ve seen. However, I seem to be missing something - the advantage(s) of this approach may seem obvious, but were never really identified. Please explain how this would be used, and why. Thanks.
That's a great idea, and if you have a different size house for a tool you just make the hole to fit! No more adaptors yay!
Great idea. Spring-loaded plunger with pull ring 👍
NIce build. DO you have plans for a manifold for 2 1/2 instead of 4"?
You’re using your combo square to line up the fence for a lot of your cuts - curious to learn more here. I don’t think this has been discussed in a previous accuracy video (apologies if it has). My understanding is that one of the benefits of nicer saws is that you can rely on the fence gauge - is that incorrect?
Also, are there any concerns about compounded error with the kerf, since you have to add 1/8” to the combo square? Is the kerf reliably dead-on 1/8”?
Thanks a lot in advance, I really appreciate how much you manage to respond to questions 👍.
Love love love this. Looking for dust collection in my 4 by 6 m shop. Will be perfect
Given me a good idea to solve a few problems, thanks n keep up the good wood work
Awesome project, definitely going to be a plus for my small shop
Great idea! Do you see a reason that it couldn’t be mounted upside down? I want my lines going up to the the ceiling and running to my tools. Thanks!
Another Superb idea guys!
I recently installed a new Oneida v3000, with five inch to four inch flex as a temp setup. Getting all my 6 large machines to function for work flow in a small 11 by 21 space is a pain. Had to rearrange twice now. At this point I am ready for a permanent solution to the dust collection piping. Two of these 3 setups maybe the ticket.
before I saw the pin setup I thought you would maybe do this with a strong magnet under the trolley and interface with something ferrous in the carriage. Then you could operate this one handed, which is generally more than I have anyway.
clever and super functional. Nice design.
My hole saws are also fairly grabby, but they are bometal and maybe better than the one used Inn the video. But, question- does anyone make a fine tooth hole saw/kit..? I don't see any around...
Great video..🥃
Agree about the hole saws. I just assumed I was being too aggressive. Guess I’m not the only one.
Nice! Now you just need to add a stepper motor with a screw connected to the carriage so that an Arduino (that interfaces with current sensors on each tool) can rotate the screw to precisely position the carriage depending on which tool is powered up……..
i really want to see this done somehow now
Great build and good space saver for the amount of hook ups. Is your plan to place this in the middle and replace the PVC cluster your showed as comparison? Or do you have other tools there to use this with by the wall?
This is a great idea! And hole saws are really only useful for sheetrock or metal. Even then I would rather use a rotozip tool in sheetrock to make the hole.
Now , That is IMPRESIVE useful idea !!!
Thank you! Cheers!
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Great idea Jonathan, thanks! Curious about the makita Brad nailer. I haven’t found one that small before I.e. easier to handle. What model is it? Keep up your great work.
Cool build 👍🏻 would it be possible that you could make all of your plans with a metric option for all your non imperial fans?
Its tough but maybe in the future. Some people get upset when I just convert the measurements to metric because you end up getting decimals like 225.4 MM. I don't have the resources to redesign 22 pages worth of step by step plans for two measurement systems.
@@katzmosestools That makes sense 🙂 still it would be nice. An other viewer replyed to me with a good idea that I could buy an imperial tape measure! Great idea I Think I Will do that 😉
@@Andersfraser also you can multiply inches by 25.4 to get the exact metric measurements. Cheers my friend
Whoa!!! How did you talk to yourself all the way in the past!!!? DeLorean, Phone Boothe, Avengers suits!?!?!?
Looks great. Suggest a magnetic panel across the front with a card attached showing which tool the hose goes to. Especially relevant in a shared space. Keep up the good work.
Awsome Idea, BTW .. I know you were talking at some point of having your watches channel, is it still a thing? ... what the smart watch you are wearning now? looks good.
Still in the works but we had to press pause while we launch Katz-Moses Tools. I may be a psycho workaholic but there's only so many hours in the day I'm not on Dad duty (which is the best job in the world) hahaha. It's a Samsung 41mm watch with an after market bezel sticker that makes it look like the Rolex Explorer II. Man I love watches. I have way too many and can't wait to share them with TH-cam.
@@katzmosestools I know the feeling, why I'm anxious to see you collection
Absolutely genius, brother!
I'm using a portable that i wheel around with an Oneida dust deputy on top, but I love this design.
Brilliant solution! 👏👏👏
Superb idea 👍
once had to drill an 8" round hole in a freshly-delivered $35,000 reception station, made from white HPL-laminated MDF, with a power outlet right behind it, while crouched under the desk with a hand drill. It skipped once and made a big gouge next to the hole with the first attempt. Got it on the 2nd, but holy crap...my wrist hurt for 2 weeks, even with the drill's extra cross-handle. Such an awkward hole to drill, and terrifying.
Sounds terrifying
I bought that mega flush bit with your code. Can't wait to try it.
It's really the best. Great it right by not trying to hog out material and it'll last years
Wow, really nice dust collection switcher, I think that is a good idea for a small workshop! Maybe I'm going to build that when I upgrade my dust collection system. Nice job
Hole saws for metal are finer and less scary. I don't know if they come in big diameter but it's better for woodworking.
For a second I thought you were going to make something with David Picciuto.
I love the tip about using a business card!
How about using a jigsaw to cut most of the hole and finish with the router? I just dislike turning large pieces of wood to sawdust/shavings unless it's much faster to do so.
Funny how at first this seemed like a less elegant and more cumbersome version than blast gates, but is it? You have to move this when you switch a machine, but you have to do it with blast gates as well. And you only need to move this once as opposed to close your current machines blast gate and open the next one.
Not in a drill-press but handheld use the hole-saw in reverse first to score the surface with less tear out.
Would a small MagSwitch work to lock the sliding carriage in place? Just run a small strip of metal along it
That's an awesome Idea!!
Something like this would work great behind a sander with 2 spindles when needing to change between the sides.
That's Cool!!!! Thank You!!!! 👏👍😎😃
Wow, great solution! Your template price is a giveaway!
Yo, that is cool Jonathan!
Hi John I did not see the link for the sanding pads you use on your sander. Thank you ,
Check out my sa ding test video 4 or 5 videos ago. Cheers
@@katzmosestools I have the 5" orbital sanders that I use the big box store hook & loop paper. I watch over 160 TH-cam channels . I watch your channel a lot.
Sweet build! How many design iterations did you go through before you finalized it?
Awesome design!
Genius! Definitely making this
It's a pretty quick build too
@@katzmosestools Perfect for a Sunday afternoon project 🙂
Very interesting. I can see where the manifold plus long lengths of flexible hose connected to each machine might be the best answer. I thought and think that the best suction is from having the longest possible lengths of inflexible smooth hose and the shortest possible lengths of ribbed hose. I can’t see how that set up and your manifold could go together. Please tell me if I’m right (a response which I will immediately forward to my wife to show that I can be right. Sometimes. Never against her though) or if I have misunderstood the potential of the manifold.
There's rigid pvc right to the left of the manifold and the tools are all within 3 feet if that helps. I show this at the end.
@@katzmosestools thanks for the reply. I saw that rigid piece with the extractor as as possible to the manifold. It was really the flexible hose from the manifold to each machine. As I said, this highly flexible solution is the best solution; for us with fairly static machines, would it be better to have a more traditional set up of as much rigid pipe as possible and the shortest possible length of flexible? All these questions and thoughts are really relevant to me as I’m thinking about the piping for the new workshop.
To begin with, I’m going to be using my existing 1hp dust extractor with cyclone. I have one flexible hose from the splitter to the table saw and the other outlet from the Y piece goes via flexible hose to whichever machine i need it on via a quick change system. I hope the time I will need to get the pennies together for the 3hp extractor will also enable me to work out the best positions for each machine.
I was also wondering if the manifold system would work with a flexible 6” hose from the extractor as you have it and then have rigid 6” pipe from each machine to the manifold. I wonder if this solution would result in the use of less piping than “normal”. I would probably also have to invert the manifold so the flexible, movable part is underneath the manifold so that the rigid pipes could go up and over the ceiling to each machine.
@@theofarmmanager267 probably would want to make the manifold in a 6” platform.
It’s not really a “one or the other” deal… I would suggest flipping the manifold over, running the rigid pipes directly to the top of the manifold (which would be located very near the dust collector/chip separator) then you just have a short piece of flexible hose from the carriage to the dust collector.
@@donny_bahama thanks for that. It was that kind of set up that I was trying (badly) to explain. The downside of that adaption, I think, is that I would 3, 4 or 5 lengths of 6” rigid pipe going from near the extractor to each machine rather than the “normal” of one main 6” rigid pipe going around the shop with a Y fitting down to each machine.
Again, just thinking in print, I do sometimes have 2 machines working at the same time - for instance when I am re-sawing, I typically re-joint the board after each cut. At the moment, I have 2 blast gates open which obviously means less suction to each but, with the manifold, I would have to go back to it each time. I’m sure there is no perfect solution and every one has positives and negatives. There are times when I hate choice.
This is such a rad idea!!!
I have gone the opposite way and use max speed for hole saws. High RPM + slow approach = no grab.
Stop light with room for extra colors lol 👍
I am going to modify this for my shop.
Gotta run those hole saws BACKWARDS !
So you have 5 flex hoses on the floor?