It's good to have a box of sterilization pouches on hand. You can put your tools, scalpels, etc in a self sealing sterilization pouch and then autoclave. Then it' remains sterile when you pull it out, and you can open the pouch when needed. Useful for sterilizing in advance.
Veterinarian here, for many years we only used All American autoclaves, all be it the electric (plug in) models in our clinic. Have since graduated to Tuttanauers. Excellent summary, BTW. Rain water is essentially distilled water, if you are in a pinch. We collected it off our (metal) roof, and ran it through a Sawyer water filtration system (100,000 gallons per filter!) and essentially had (almost) sterile distilled water, from the heavens, for "free". We also found doing the "hammer" trick could bend the aluminum when it was hot, so instead we kept a scrap piece of 2x2 around and would gently tap the edge (tapping the 2x2 with the hammer) of the lid (the phlange where it juts out to lock it down) counter clockwise (I think?) to break the seal. Steri pouches sure are nice, but two surgical huck towels (ie, an inner and outer pack wraps) work just as well. Instead of buying those "OK"/arrow steri strips we'd take autoclave tape and put "strips" of it on a piece of paper (width or length, doesn't matter), cut strips into 3 inch sections and put those inside the inner pack as a our inner sterilization indicator. The stuff that turns black on the autoclave tape is the same thing that's on the OK/arrow steri strips. Finally (I apologize for the length here) its a good idea to keep two spare parts around, the pressure valve and the pressure dial. Never know when Sally the big hair gum chewin' idiot vet tech is gonna drop the lid-(Ow, Dr its hot, why is it hot?) and break one or both of them. That dial may well last forever if not dropped, but the pressure relief valve will eventually rust/wear out and it sucks to have to wait for one of those to show up in the mail. Edit: Also forgot, when your done with the cylce, leave the lid on at an angle and just leave it for 15 minutes, that residual heat will "dry" out your cloth packs, gauze etc.
You can buy tape that has heat reactive markings on it which will only change if your autoclave is hot enough and pressurized enough to actually destroys endospores. 👍
Thanks for the straightforward tutorial. I just recently purchased the exact two items you have. I have seen videos that mention olive oil eventually getting very sticky and causing the lid to get stuck very tight. I am using a very LIGHT coat of petroleum jelly (manual says it’s okay) and being very careful to not let it get into contact with any other surfaces. So far so good. Good luck with your endeavors! 🙂
We picked up a vintage All American sterilizer that we updated the gauge and valve on. We use it to sterilize stuff when culturing and growing oyster mushrooms. Good thought provoking video! I think I’ll pick up some autoclave pouches and work on building up a small collection of tools for our medical preps. (For the homestead animals too)
Immediately upon opening the autoclave, the instruments are non-sterile again because there's no HEPA laminar flow. Leaning over the chamber and talking above the instruments covers them with skin cells and respiratory aerosols. Not hateful criticism, just points to note for those seriously considering doing this with their own supplies. It is very hard to sterilize objects (as in no microbes at all, nothing nada zilch) but it's incredibly easy to re-inoculate them again right away. Stay safe everyone!
That’s why use trays verification containers sealed , that’s always the case, flow fails CB hood carry anything to absurdity, clean room & airlocks, full shower scba bodies enclosed failed in production for planet, meds syringes, animal research. Only as strong as weakest and usually non stem non PhD Md BSChE Chem. Surgical hospital and MRSA lungs, it’s on home.
You can just lift the weight off the steam port with a pressure canner and release all the pressure quickly. DON'T DO IT BY HAND! You'll get some amazing burns from the steam. Use tongs.
Veterinarian here: The important thing is to keep the arrow on the dial "In the green", once you have reached temp/pressure. If it goes into the red, don't panic, lower the heat, or release some steam through the pressure relief valve until your dial is back in the green. Like the IRA ("we're all off to Dublin in the green, in the green"-Irish Republican Army fight song, sorry I learned it growing up, and its all I can think of when autoclaving with one of these), you want the arrow in the GREEN.If the arrow goes below the green, you are in trouble. Increase the heat is your only option. If that doesn't work, stop the cycle, let out the steam, open it up, put in more water and start over. Sterility is an absolute. There is no "a little bit" sterile.
There is no reason to let the pressure out. You have to wait for it to cool anyway so you might as well let it hold pressure and sterilize while it's cooling.
Yes. The important things are the pressure achieved, time of heating, and the ability for the moist heat to reach EVERY surface of the object. Keeping the objects suspended in the center of the chamber and OFF of the bottom is absolutely critical for successful sterilization.
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It's good to have a box of sterilization pouches on hand. You can put your tools, scalpels, etc in a self sealing sterilization pouch and then autoclave. Then it' remains sterile when you pull it out, and you can open the pouch when needed. Useful for sterilizing in advance.
Yes! We are working on getting those
Also it keeps it from touching the aluminum.
Aluminum foil folded into a pouch works too, in a pinch.
Veterinarian here, for many years we only used All American autoclaves, all be it the electric (plug in) models in our clinic. Have since graduated to Tuttanauers. Excellent summary, BTW. Rain water is essentially distilled water, if you are in a pinch. We collected it off our (metal) roof, and ran it through a Sawyer water filtration system (100,000 gallons per filter!) and essentially had (almost) sterile distilled water, from the heavens, for "free". We also found doing the "hammer" trick could bend the aluminum when it was hot, so instead we kept a scrap piece of 2x2 around and would gently tap the edge (tapping the 2x2 with the hammer) of the lid (the phlange where it juts out to lock it down) counter clockwise (I think?) to break the seal. Steri pouches sure are nice, but two surgical huck towels (ie, an inner and outer pack wraps) work just as well. Instead of buying those "OK"/arrow steri strips we'd take autoclave tape and put "strips" of it on a piece of paper (width or length, doesn't matter), cut strips into 3 inch sections and put those inside the inner pack as a our inner sterilization indicator. The stuff that turns black on the autoclave tape is the same thing that's on the OK/arrow steri strips. Finally (I apologize for the length here) its a good idea to keep two spare parts around, the pressure valve and the pressure dial. Never know when Sally the big hair gum chewin' idiot vet tech is gonna drop the lid-(Ow, Dr its hot, why is it hot?) and break one or both of them. That dial may well last forever if not dropped, but the pressure relief valve will eventually rust/wear out and it sucks to have to wait for one of those to show up in the mail. Edit: Also forgot, when your done with the cylce, leave the lid on at an angle and just leave it for 15 minutes, that residual heat will "dry" out your cloth packs, gauze etc.
You can buy tape that has heat reactive markings on it which will only change if your autoclave is hot enough and pressurized enough to actually destroys endospores. 👍
Thanks for the straightforward tutorial. I just recently purchased the exact two items you have.
I have seen videos that mention olive oil eventually getting very sticky and causing the lid to get stuck very tight. I am using a very LIGHT coat of petroleum jelly (manual says it’s okay) and being very careful to not let it get into contact with any other surfaces. So far so good.
Good luck with your endeavors! 🙂
We picked up a vintage All American sterilizer that we updated the gauge and valve on. We use it to sterilize stuff when culturing and growing oyster mushrooms. Good thought provoking video! I think I’ll pick up some autoclave pouches and work on building up a small collection of tools for our medical preps. (For the homestead animals too)
Immediately upon opening the autoclave, the instruments are non-sterile again because there's no HEPA laminar flow. Leaning over the chamber and talking above the instruments covers them with skin cells and respiratory aerosols. Not hateful criticism, just points to note for those seriously considering doing this with their own supplies. It is very hard to sterilize objects (as in no microbes at all, nothing nada zilch) but it's incredibly easy to re-inoculate them again right away. Stay safe everyone!
That’s why use trays verification containers sealed , that’s always the case, flow fails CB hood carry anything to absurdity, clean room & airlocks, full shower scba bodies enclosed failed in production for planet, meds syringes, animal research. Only as strong as weakest and usually non stem non PhD Md BSChE Chem. Surgical hospital and MRSA lungs, it’s on home.
You can just lift the weight off the steam port with a pressure canner and release all the pressure quickly.
DON'T DO IT BY HAND! You'll get some amazing burns from the steam. Use tongs.
Thank you!
The book that comes with the All American pressure canner recommends petroleum jelly as the lubricant. So it is not just for the autoclave.
Perfect
She works well under preasure 😁 nice kitchen. Thank you
Hahaha thank you
The "Stovetop Autoclave Sterilizer (17.6 Qt Inner Container Capacity)" pictured on the web site looks exactly like a pressure caner.
My very old AllAmerican pressure canner has the same steam valve as the sterilizer. My Amish friends say they came both ways.
Awesome thank you for the information!
Good demo
Thank you!
Is that the 1941x? Trying to gauge some sizes, thanks.
I can tell she is one of us in South Carolina! "Caddy Wampus' LOL
Hahahaha … YES
Grew up saying that in Missouri. Old expression that is common.
Did you have to keep adjusting the stove temperature or could you find the sweet spot and just set it and leave it??
Veterinarian here: The important thing is to keep the arrow on the dial "In the green", once you have reached temp/pressure. If it goes into the red, don't panic, lower the heat, or release some steam through the pressure relief valve until your dial is back in the green. Like the IRA ("we're all off to Dublin in the green, in the green"-Irish Republican Army fight song, sorry I learned it growing up, and its all I can think of when autoclaving with one of these), you want the arrow in the GREEN.If the arrow goes below the green, you are in trouble. Increase the heat is your only option. If that doesn't work, stop the cycle, let out the steam, open it up, put in more water and start over. Sterility is an absolute. There is no "a little bit" sterile.
The towel is key otherwise putting different kinds of metal in an aluminum autoclave will cause galvanic corrosion of the aluminum.
There is no reason to let the pressure out. You have to wait for it to cool anyway so you might as well let it hold pressure and sterilize while it's cooling.
Any stainless steel pressure cooker or pressure canning machine will do nicely in a pinch
Yes. The important things are the pressure achieved, time of heating, and the ability for the moist heat to reach EVERY surface of the object. Keeping the objects suspended in the center of the chamber and OFF of the bottom is absolutely critical for successful sterilization.
It doesn't matter because everything in there is the same temp. Steam is literally surrounding every side of the inner pot.@@mannys9130
Will it speed up the process if i pour hot boil water instead of room temp water
Yes! Saved me a good bit of time when I did that.