Thanks. I knew a larger battery could be added but was not sure of the size. After watching your video I pulled my 3.4 AH battery and replaced with a 7.2 AH from a seller on Amazon. Working like a champ. Now I am going to replace my other 3.
Thanks for answering a question I've been asking all over Amazon, without ever getting an answer. I got the same idea when I decided to replace the 350's battery. I looked for the specs on the back of the case and found specs for both the 350 and the 500 models. Then, I opened it up and found that the battery for the 500 unit fit perfectly (once all these plastic walls are gone). I just wasn't sure that the circuitry was the same inside. In fact, it may very well be if the 500 takes the same amount of time to charge than the 350. If so, then a modified 350 (with a 500 batt) is even better than a 500, because a Lead Acid batt charged slowly will stay charged longer + have a longer lifetime, and a fast charge is not needed for a UPS. What I didn't think of was removing the alarm, and I had no idea how to do it. I'm surprised that removing the component doesn't cut the whole circuit. I would have probably tried to replace it with a plain wire, but apparently, that's not necessary. Great video. Thanks!
About 6 years ago , I've modified my APC 1500 , by hooking up 2 deep cycle batteries in series since it's a 24 V system ,it's still working just fine , but the buzzer of the unit annoyed me , so simply I lifted it up using soldering iron and a sucker , but the UPS stopped working ! I discovered later , the double sided PCB has disconnected essential part of control circuit , so I've soldered a dummy wire to connect the upper and lower hole of PCB , and it worked again .
I was just taking my battery out today and noticed this issue of the plastic tabs, my other model 550 has the larger battery and I was thinking of how to chip away the plastic tabs easily to run the bigger battery. I was going to use channel locks or vise grips. And thanks for pointing out the beeper diode, drives me nuts. There's also another video of adding DC switches and 12V female plugs to charge your phone directly from the battery without using the power investor which sucks the battery in an hour or so, thereby increasing battery time to charge your phone to one day or more vs 1 charge, and putting a digital voltage meter in to monitor the level of charge left. Looked pretty simple except the template for outputs, but I guess you could skip them and just run the wires through a hole and seal them. There was also a video of a guy using a full size 12V marine battery and 2 golf cart 6V's in line for days of batt power.
Um, the alarm can be easily disabled from the APC software. I simply connected my APC to my computer running the PowerChute software with the supplied connector, selected the "disable all the time" option, disconnected the cable to the UPS and was good to go and able to put my UPS anywhere in the house without the alarm going off during an outage. All without having to unscrew or remove anything and took me all of ten seconds and a hell of a lot simpler then the video.
Mike Wolf Just by the condescending "um" I can tell you are really smart.. So, I guess I should specify that I didn't feel like looking for an old piece of software I had for a device I used years ago, only to try and load it and have an error, and then connect it to the device and have a USB error, so I could finally do what I wanted. I don't mind unscrewing things, but thanks for the tip!
Ok then. :) Sorry you were having problems with the product that you felt you needed to open it. I was simply putting it out there for those who came across the video that there was an easier and safer way to disable the alert without having to open the product, void the warranty, and physically remove something which if it's the wrong something could create a fire risk. The software is easily accessible at the APC website and been tested for up to Windows 8. I just don't want anyone to get hurt. Have a good day. :)
An even cheaper long run UPS is the BGE70M oir BGE90M when newegg.com puts them om sale for $20 delivered. Their maximum wattage is 75 but the BGE70M can run 37 watts for 48 minutes and the BGE90M can run 37 watts for 79 minutes. Pretty good when the delivered device is less than the cost of the replacement battery. Not sure if these UPS units are still available but they're worth picking up in yard sales and the freebies on Craig's List and Freecycle. The last one I bought was a BGE70M in May of 2018 for $18.99 delivered. The Tripplite 1000 runs 133 minutes at a 40 watt load. I've picked up several of these as freebies. So far, the biggest repair is a new battery.
Thank you so much! I have a slightly different model of the APC ES 350, but with this video I was able to remove that stupid annoying beeping alarm. My unit would beep for no reason at all if I plugged in my stuff say for instance because I rearranged my desk or office area. To stop the beeping, I would have to unplug everything including the APC unit, Then plug it back in and then replug in my computers to it. Yes, I run 3 computers off it. My Windows PC, my server box, and my old Mac.
These UPS devices are designed for a short run time. Be careful when adding larger batteries because they do not have fans and heatsinks to dissipate the heat from a much longer run time if under a high load. Most have a small aluminum block to absorb the heat, but not to transfer it to the air. In this example, since it is running a small load it will probably be ok, but do not run them near the rated load for very long. I have seen where people are connecting them to car batteries, not good.
MOST units have blade fuses inside!Buzzes loudly? Take apart and find the buzzer and poke a small nail in the hole and mangle it a little to make it quieter. Works fine.
MIke, thanks for the tips! I do only plan to run this device with ver small loads, so I am hoping it will be okay. I just wanted to back up my modem and router for a long period of time. Thanks again! Mark :)
Governo, Absolutely. The larger the battery, the longer your run time for a given load. However, a larger battery does not mean you can run higher powered stuff, as the circuity is designed for smaller stuff. For larger items they make larger APC devices.
Would have been really helpful to say exactly which battery you used, as dimensions are not consistent on 7 ah 12 v batteries (at least not across the dozen or so on Amazon). Also would have been worth noting that the air space, while probably overdone, is there for air circulation. A cool battery is a happy battery, and since there is no fan for forced air cooling, a larger air gap was used.
3 5\8" x 2 1/2" x 6" vs the original which is 5 1/4" x 2 1/4" x 2 1/2" roughly. And as far as air gap, my 550 is tight as hell fitting in, as it is on my 80 Watt Monster Bluetooth speaker with the same larger 12V 7ah battery, so not sure it makes much difference if the manufacturer is not providing space from the factory when there is lots of space to do it design wise.
Hi thanks for.the vid it is a good one. I had a problem which I figure you might help me with . I took out a gel cells from a cheap UPS and extended the leads and connected them to a car battery. I figured it would be ok as long as the voltage was same. I did not have problem with the beeper, but the thing is not working as, it keeps on making those clicking noises from relays while on ac ,when it is supposed to be charging the batt. In a nutshell it ain't charging the batt. The batt is new , I might add, and provides a good backup, but have to charge it externally. So the ups is basically just working as an inverter. What gives?
+Piyush Bishnoi Your car battery draws more current than the UPS can supply when charging, the UPS shuts off the charging circuit with the relay when it detects the over-current condition.
We didn't have internet there, so no router, no modem. Even then, sometimes we would be woke up in the middle of night to the stupid thing beeping one long continuous annoying beep. Since I've pulled the alarm, no more beeping. I know to watch the led for stuff. So, I'm good. Like right now, I've noticed the led is flashing red and then going green, then repeating. Let me check it out.
To continue my comment. My computers share a monitor thanks to a handy dandy KVM USB switch. One monitor, one mouse, and one keyboard to run them all. My monitor, router, and DSL modem are plugged into the surge protection side. Thanks again.
Sorry, took so long to reply. Actually it could be over loaded, but I doubt it. The unit started doing that nearly a day after I got it. At the time I had 2 computers, 1 monitor, a cable modem, and router. I have always had the router and which ever modem on the non-battery back-up surge protection only side. I do know that for nearly six months I had 1 computer and monitor plugged into it, because my wife and I loved in a small trailer with 2 bedrooms and our 2 kids. No room for the rest.
I just watched your video on a UPS mod. I have a question for you and hoping you can answer it. I am trying to increase my backup battery time for a fish aeration pump. So, I took out the factory battery and hooked up two deep cycle batteries in parallel. All went well and it ran for about 6 hours and then stopped. I check the batteries and still had 84% charge left. I am questioning the UPS system as to why it wouldn't drain the marine batteries to a 0% charge. I noticed that this UPS system was doing that prior to this modification just on my computer equipment I had it hooked up too. It would run for about an hour no problem and then over time would only run for about 5 minutes. I thought it was the battery. Does this seem odd for a UPS and should I just consider getting a new one? Thanks
+Shawn Paul (MorningStarMissions) I am confused by your question as it is written. Are you saying that the UPS stopped, but that the batteries still have 84% after you measured the voltage of the batteries with a Digital Volt Meter? Or are are you questioning why the UPS would be designed to completely drain a battery? If it is the first part, perhaps it got hot, and the internal fuse blew. I think those are made to just open permanently when they get too hot. Meaning either pulling battery power for X amount of time, or pulling too much current. What size UPS do you have, and what is your load requirement? Meaning what is the power ratting of your pumps? Perhaps you need a more robust UPS, to handle the higher power requirements, not just a longer life battery? If you are asking why the UPS drains batteries farther than they should, my answer is maybe so the companies that make them can sell more batteries?
The hurdle to overcome would be the charge time. You can hook as large of batteryy up to this, but the circuitry probably can't charge it. If you're going to go that route, there are much better inverters. The ones in all but the expensive APC UPS are cheap modified sinewavve inverters. I have seen some expensive models that have true sinewave inverters, but most aren't. That is as large a battery as I will go. I already have a true sinewave inverter, and a cheap 800 watt modifed one. thx!
So how big a battery do you think you could hook up? Like, externally? Can you just keep adding bigger and bigger batteries, or does it eventually get to the stage where the electronics can't handle the longer charge/discharge times?
can I use two wheeler batteries? Will the ups work? can I fit two parallel batteries? Will The ups overheat?or wont charge? I have seen vedios wer some have used car batteries
i just want to have the battery last much much longer ... like put a car battery on the floor and wire it up to the ups leads ... so the ups has more time-power on it rather than that little 15 minute battery that konks out so quickly now
Thanks for letting me know! Hope it all works out for you! So far, I have been using mine since making this video with a few power outages, and it has worked without a hitch!
A 7AH, 12 volt battery is pretty standard, however, I would not recommend this particular one from radio shack, as I am finding it gets bad reviews. So, the exact dimensions are useless to you. As I said though, a 7a/h, 12 volt battery is a standard size so they are all the same.
good day boss i have es-500 apc ups i try remove the buzzer inside the ups. and my problem only 17mins running on my ups... pls help to increase running time my ups... and more power
Richard Yuson Here is a calculation you can do to know what size ups, and or battery you need. A rough estimate is. Power out/voltage=current. So if you are using say 120 watts, you divide by 120 volts, that equals 1 amp. So then you have to increase it at least by 10 to get the battery in put current. In reality, the inverter is not 100% efficient, so you have to add that in. So you have to take AT LEAST another 10% so, really you would be drawing 11 amps from that load. So if you have a 20amp hour battery you would divide 20/11 too see how long the battery would last before complete discharge . That is only 1.8 hours. In reality, you don't want to deplete the battery more than half. So the forumulas you need are Power/Voltage=current. Current in multiplied by step down transformer ration, so if you are using a 12 volt battery that is roughly 10. You take output current times transformer ratio(10)Divide the current you get into the AH of the battery.YOU WILL NOT GET MORE POWER FROM THE SAME UPS, BUT YOU MAY GET A LONGER RUN TIME. If you try to put more than the rated power through it, you may start a fire! Be careful! Probably should buy a bigger ups...
FYI, it sounds like larger UPS systems, like the 500 may have a set cutoff time. so it may only run for a set time not using much of its capacity. These smaller ones, espcially the 350 may not have this, and instead, keep going until it gives out.
@@michaelebays Your correct on the set time limits. Depends on which model you have. APC###U or M will run for about 8 hours depending on your battery. I use a 12v28Ah/8hr battery and can run up to 8 hours on battery. APC###R is regulated to about 1.5 hours.
The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist Thanks, I have an APC 7.5Ah spare (new battery) and hated having to buy a tiny 3.5 Ah battery when I had a nice new one sitting around. Thanks for the heads up, I will do the same as you and not risk the possible problems... Cheers Richard
I have gone a step further. I set a 12v 28Ah/8hr battery. Unfortunately APC 350R will only run 1.5 hours max. It is a factory limiter. If you can find a APC###U or M then you can run for up to 8 hours continuously. These units draw .5 amps when operating on battery.
Thanks. I knew a larger battery could be added but was not sure of the size. After watching your video I pulled my 3.4 AH battery and replaced with a 7.2 AH from a seller on Amazon. Working like a champ. Now I am going to replace my other 3.
Thanks for answering a question I've been asking all over Amazon, without ever getting an answer. I got the same idea when I decided to replace the 350's battery. I looked for the specs on the back of the case and found specs for both the 350 and the 500 models. Then, I opened it up and found that the battery for the 500 unit fit perfectly (once all these plastic walls are gone). I just wasn't sure that the circuitry was the same inside. In fact, it may very well be if the 500 takes the same amount of time to charge than the 350. If so, then a modified 350 (with a 500 batt) is even better than a 500, because a Lead Acid batt charged slowly will stay charged longer + have a longer lifetime, and a fast charge is not needed for a UPS. What I didn't think of was removing the alarm, and I had no idea how to do it. I'm surprised that removing the component doesn't cut the whole circuit. I would have probably tried to replace it with a plain wire, but apparently, that's not necessary. Great video. Thanks!
Why removing the alarm\buzzer ?
About 6 years ago , I've modified my APC 1500 , by hooking up 2 deep cycle batteries in series since it's a 24 V system ,it's still working just fine , but the buzzer of the unit annoyed me , so simply I lifted it up using soldering iron and a sucker , but the UPS stopped working ! I discovered later , the double sided PCB has disconnected essential part of control circuit , so I've soldered a dummy wire to connect the upper and lower hole of PCB , and it worked again .
I was just taking my battery out today and noticed this issue of the plastic tabs, my other model 550 has the larger battery and I was thinking of how to chip away the plastic tabs easily to run the bigger battery. I was going to use channel locks or vise grips. And thanks for pointing out the beeper diode, drives me nuts. There's also another video of adding DC switches and 12V female plugs to charge your phone directly from the battery without using the power investor which sucks the battery in an hour or so, thereby increasing battery time to charge your phone to one day or more vs 1 charge, and putting a digital voltage meter in to monitor the level of charge left. Looked pretty simple except the template for outputs, but I guess you could skip them and just run the wires through a hole and seal them. There was also a video of a guy using a full size 12V marine battery and 2 golf cart 6V's in line for days of batt power.
Thank you for this video. I dropped mine and the positive and negative got screwed up. This video helped me fix it.
Um, the alarm can be easily disabled from the APC software. I simply connected my APC to my computer running the PowerChute software with the supplied connector, selected the "disable all the time" option, disconnected the cable to the UPS and was good to go and able to put my UPS anywhere in the house without the alarm going off during an outage. All without having to unscrew or remove anything and took me all of ten seconds and a hell of a lot simpler then the video.
Mike Wolf Just by the condescending "um" I can tell you are really smart.. So, I guess I should specify that I didn't feel like looking for an old piece of software I had for a device I used years ago, only to try and load it and have an error, and then connect it to the device and have a USB error, so I could finally do what I wanted. I don't mind unscrewing things, but thanks for the tip!
Ok then. :) Sorry you were having problems with the product that you felt you needed to open it. I was simply putting it out there for those who came across the video that there was an easier and safer way to disable the alert without having to open the product, void the warranty, and physically remove something which if it's the wrong something could create a fire risk. The software is easily accessible at the APC website and been tested for up to Windows 8. I just don't want anyone to get hurt. Have a good day. :)
@@mikewolf5367 you can also use the freely available APCUPSD for windows or linux
An even cheaper long run UPS is the BGE70M oir BGE90M when newegg.com puts them om sale for $20 delivered. Their maximum wattage is 75 but the BGE70M can run 37 watts for 48 minutes and the BGE90M can run 37 watts for 79 minutes. Pretty good when the delivered device is less than the cost of the replacement battery. Not sure if these UPS units are still available but they're worth picking up in yard sales and the freebies on Craig's List and Freecycle.
The last one I bought was a BGE70M in May of 2018 for $18.99 delivered.
The Tripplite 1000 runs 133 minutes at a 40 watt load. I've picked up several of these as freebies. So far, the biggest repair is a new battery.
Thank you so much! I have a slightly different model of the APC ES 350, but with this video I was able to remove that stupid annoying beeping alarm. My unit would beep for no reason at all if I plugged in my stuff say for instance because I rearranged my desk or office area. To stop the beeping, I would have to unplug everything including the APC unit, Then plug it back in and then replug in my computers to it. Yes, I run 3 computers off it. My Windows PC, my server box, and my old Mac.
These UPS devices are designed for a short run time. Be careful when adding larger batteries because they do not have fans and heatsinks to dissipate the heat from a much longer run time if under a high load. Most have a small aluminum block to absorb the heat, but not to transfer it to the air. In this example, since it is running a small load it will probably be ok, but do not run them near the rated load for very long. I have seen where people are connecting them to car batteries, not good.
MOST units have blade fuses inside!Buzzes loudly? Take apart and find the buzzer and poke a small nail in the hole and mangle it a little to make it quieter. Works fine.
MIke, thanks for the tips! I do only plan to run this device with ver small loads, so I am hoping it will be okay. I just wanted to back up my modem and router for a long period of time. Thanks again! Mark :)
Governo, Absolutely. The larger the battery, the longer your run time for a given load. However, a larger battery does not mean you can run higher powered stuff, as the circuity is designed for smaller stuff. For larger items they make larger APC devices.
Would have been really helpful to say exactly which battery you used, as dimensions are not consistent on 7 ah 12 v batteries (at least not across the dozen or so on Amazon). Also would have been worth noting that the air space, while probably overdone, is there for air circulation. A cool battery is a happy battery, and since there is no fan for forced air cooling, a larger air gap was used.
3 5\8" x 2 1/2" x 6" vs the original which is 5 1/4" x 2 1/4" x 2 1/2" roughly. And as far as air gap, my 550 is tight as hell fitting in, as it is on my 80 Watt Monster Bluetooth speaker with the same larger 12V 7ah battery, so not sure it makes much difference if the manufacturer is not providing space from the factory when there is lots of space to do it design wise.
Hi thanks for.the vid it is a good one. I had a problem which I figure you might help me with . I took out a gel cells from a cheap UPS and extended the leads and connected them to a car battery. I figured it would be ok as long as the voltage was same. I did not have problem with the beeper, but the thing is not working as, it keeps on making those clicking noises from relays while on ac ,when it is supposed to be charging the batt. In a nutshell it ain't charging the batt. The batt is new , I might add, and provides a good backup, but have to charge it externally. So the ups is basically just working as an inverter. What gives?
+Piyush Bishnoi
Your car battery draws more current than the UPS can supply when charging, the UPS shuts off the charging circuit with the relay when it detects the over-current condition.
John, I am glad you found this video useful. Are you sure the unit isn't beeping because it is getting loaded down by all the equipment?
We didn't have internet there, so no router, no modem. Even then, sometimes we would be woke up in the middle of night to the stupid thing beeping one long continuous annoying beep. Since I've pulled the alarm, no more beeping. I know to watch the led for stuff. So, I'm good. Like right now, I've noticed the led is flashing red and then going green, then repeating. Let me check it out.
To continue my comment. My computers share a monitor thanks to a handy dandy KVM USB switch. One monitor, one mouse, and one keyboard to run them all. My monitor, router, and DSL modem are plugged into the surge protection side. Thanks again.
Sorry, took so long to reply. Actually it could be over loaded, but I doubt it. The unit started doing that nearly a day after I got it. At the time I had 2 computers, 1 monitor, a cable modem, and router. I have always had the router and which ever modem on the non-battery back-up surge protection only side. I do know that for nearly six months I had 1 computer and monitor plugged into it, because my wife and I loved in a small trailer with 2 bedrooms and our 2 kids. No room for the rest.
I just watched your video on a UPS mod. I have a question for you and hoping you can answer it. I am trying to increase my backup battery time for a fish aeration pump. So, I took out the factory battery and hooked up two deep cycle batteries in parallel. All went well and it ran for about 6 hours and then stopped. I check the batteries and still had 84% charge left. I am questioning the UPS system as to why it wouldn't drain the marine batteries to a 0% charge. I noticed that this UPS system was doing that prior to this modification just on my computer equipment I had it hooked up too. It would run for about an hour no problem and then over time would only run for about 5 minutes. I thought it was the battery. Does this seem odd for a UPS and should I just consider getting a new one? Thanks
+Shawn Paul (MorningStarMissions) I am confused by your question as it is written. Are you saying that the UPS stopped, but that the batteries still have 84% after you measured the voltage of the batteries with a Digital Volt Meter?
Or are are you questioning why the UPS would be designed to completely drain a battery?
If it is the first part, perhaps it got hot, and the internal fuse blew. I think those are made to just open permanently when they get too hot. Meaning either pulling battery power for X amount of time, or pulling too much current.
What size UPS do you have, and what is your load requirement? Meaning what is the power ratting of your pumps?
Perhaps you need a more robust UPS, to handle the higher power requirements, not just a longer life battery?
If you are asking why the UPS drains batteries farther than they should, my answer is maybe so the companies that make them can sell more batteries?
The hurdle to overcome would be the charge time. You can hook as large of batteryy up to this, but the circuitry probably can't charge it. If you're going to go that route, there are much better inverters. The ones in all but the expensive APC UPS are cheap modified sinewavve inverters. I have seen some expensive models that have true sinewave inverters, but most aren't. That is as large a battery as I will go. I already have a true sinewave inverter, and a cheap 800 watt modifed one. thx!
So how big a battery do you think you could hook up? Like, externally? Can you just keep adding bigger and bigger batteries, or does it eventually get to the stage where the electronics can't handle the longer charge/discharge times?
can I use two wheeler batteries? Will the ups work? can I fit two parallel batteries? Will The ups overheat?or wont charge? I have seen vedios wer some have used car batteries
HI sir
Excellent work. Highly appreciated. can i connect larger battery and use just a modem of 12 v.. wil it get over heated r else it wil be f9 ?
+ahad nadeem I'm sorry but I really don't understand your question.
i just want to have the battery last much much longer ... like put a car battery on the floor and wire it up to the ups leads ... so the ups has more time-power on it rather than that little 15 minute battery that konks out so quickly now
Does all ES series no EI core transformers?
Doing this to an old ES350 someone gave me. I recommend Batterysharks.
Thanks for letting me know! Hope it all works out for you! So far, I have been using mine since making this video with a few power outages, and it has worked without a hitch!
Mark Daniel Imaging Finished it last night. I was able to fit in a 9AH battery. Everything is working great.
A 7AH, 12 volt battery is pretty standard, however, I would not recommend this particular one from radio shack, as I am finding it gets bad reviews. So, the exact dimensions are useless to you. As I said though, a 7a/h, 12 volt battery is a standard size so they are all the same.
Million-dollar question why are you going 120v thro a power inverter back to 12v .
Explain please
Doe's it matter what amp the battery is?
good day boss i have es-500 apc ups i try remove the buzzer inside the ups. and my problem only 17mins running on my ups...
pls help to increase running time my ups... and more power
Richard Yuson Here is a calculation you can do to know what size ups, and or battery you need. A rough estimate is. Power out/voltage=current. So if you are using say 120 watts, you divide by 120 volts, that equals 1 amp. So then you have to increase it at least by 10 to get the battery in put current. In reality, the inverter is not 100% efficient, so you have to add that in. So you have to take AT LEAST another 10% so, really you would be drawing 11 amps from that load. So if you have a 20amp hour battery you would divide 20/11 too see how long the battery would last before complete discharge . That is only 1.8 hours. In reality, you don't want to deplete the battery more than half. So the forumulas you need are Power/Voltage=current. Current in multiplied by step down transformer ration, so if you are using a 12 volt battery that is roughly 10. You take output current times transformer ratio(10)Divide the current you get into the AH of the battery.YOU WILL NOT GET MORE POWER FROM THE SAME UPS, BUT YOU MAY GET A LONGER RUN TIME. If you try to put more than the rated power through it, you may start a fire! Be careful! Probably should buy a bigger ups...
FYI, it sounds like larger UPS systems, like the 500 may have a set cutoff time. so it may only run for a set time not using much of its capacity. These smaller ones, espcially the 350 may not have this, and instead, keep going until it gives out.
@@michaelebays Your correct on the set time limits. Depends on which model you have. APC###U or M will run for about 8 hours depending on your battery. I use a 12v28Ah/8hr battery and can run up to 8 hours on battery. APC###R is regulated to about 1.5 hours.
Im considering doing this to my APC 350 ... did yo end up having any overeating problems? Or any problems whatsoever?
Richard T i never had any issues with this, but after a while, i just decided it wasnt woryh the potentisl problems and got rid of them...
The Suburban Hippie Experimentalist Thanks, I have an APC 7.5Ah spare (new battery) and hated having to buy a tiny 3.5 Ah battery when I had a nice new one sitting around.
Thanks for the heads up, I will do the same as you and not risk the possible problems...
Cheers
Richard
Should be fine. Just remember that just because it has a bigger battery does not mean it can handle a higher current!
I have gone a step further. I set a 12v 28Ah/8hr battery. Unfortunately APC 350R will only run 1.5 hours max. It is a factory limiter. If you can find a APC###U or M then you can run for up to 8 hours continuously. These units draw .5 amps when operating on battery.
Diagonal "Cutters"....Sir...
Useful mod
Daniel, please just be careful with this unit, as you don't want to run a large load(heavy wattage device) through it, as it isn't made for that! :)
I'd rather use hot glue or plasticine to cover the buzzer and make it less annoying.
i put 2 12v on a 500
STOP SAYING "SO" so much