Thank you for this video. I followed your instructions and everything worked great! One detail I'll pass along. The display backlight slowly pulses on and off when your batteries are charging. This detail is not in the directions that come with the battery monitor. I discovered online that some people find it annoying at night if the display is located in your RV. I mounted mine in the battery bay and not in the trailer for this reason. Thanks again for an easy the follow and accurate video! Cheers!
I just finished installing a QWork battery monitor. It is just like the AiLi. The monitor itself, the shunt, the instructions, and all connections are exactly like the AiLi. The shunt was a 500w and I needed to use a 13 foot extension wire. The QWork is about $10.00 more than the AiLi. Amazon was out of the AiLi but they had the QWork. My installation was in a travel trailer. I watched this video a number of times and it made the installation easy! Thank you very much for a clear and concise installation video. I’ll be boondocking for four days. The new monitor will allow me to keep track of battery usage.
Awesome video, getting mine tomorrow. Answered every little nagging doubt I had. Thank you very much for taking the time out of your life to help me and other folks.
Wow! You really helped me hook up this shunt properly. You also answered someone's question about how to correctly connect attache solar panels via the charge controller to the "P" post of the a shunt. That's what I did after reading your answer to that question. It worked. Thank you very much!
Hi! If you accurate want to monitor, and really to know how much percent you have, you must to programm the monitor when your inverter or charger is tuned off!!! Now you have a fault measurement. 14,5 Volts x 210 Ah = 3045 Wh and that is your 100% . But when your charger not running your Battery have around 12,5 V x 210 Ah = 2625 Wh! Fault size: 16% ! But the video is great! Cheers
I have new GrandDesign Imagine that has a battery monitor in it. It looks the same but is Furrion branded. Just got it programmed tonight with help from this video. Turned out I needed to press the A/Ah but twice before holding for three seconds which I figured out watching your video. Manual is not the best. It wasn’t working when I got the trailer. Didn’t realize it until later since they placed it in the basement control center. Had to trace the battery negative backwards to locate the shunt. Which was buried. When I found that there was an inline fuse that was blown so an easy fix. Not worth driving back to the dealer.
With my if I have on the display volts and then press the middle button for three seconds I can then set the volts from 0 to 120 . Not sure what this relates to.
Great video. Clear and well articulated instructions, thanks. Quick question, mine came with a 500 amp shunt, does that matter at all when it comes to the accuracy of the readings? Thanks.
Hi Jeff, I have the 500 amp shunt also. It is perfectly fine and will allow you to connect any accessories you may want to add in the future like an inverter or solar.
I have 270AH and have this capacity monitor wired, though I wondering there’s an issues, reason being is I can run inverter/laptop & speaker, projector, pS4, and more, all while seeing little drop on the monitor after hours of use! Maybe I’m just too used to the old lead acid truck battery, which had me anxious all the time. This new setup seams amazing.
Slightly off topic but I’m just a bit curious on your battery setup because I’m trying to set up my trailer. The instructions you provided were excellent. That looks like a parallel set up but why is there more then one heavy wire on each of the positives? I thought when you do a parallel set up you go positive to positive, negative to negative, then with the positive from the coach to one of the batteries and the negative from the coach to the other battery to allow equalized charging.
Yes they are set in parallel. There is an extra positive wire for the hydraulic jacks. Watch this video to see how I wired the batteries th-cam.com/video/6-k7PUWFRMg/w-d-xo.html
Great video! Would it be possible or advisable to lengthen the meter wire with the same gauge? The control panel is a fair distance from the battery. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
@@RVHabit Hey thanks for the reply. I'm building a camper and for power I have one of those "solar generators" that I use for other things. I would just be hooking up my RV fan and small 12v fridge straight to this battery with a fuse in there, but that's it.. So yes, I would be drawing power from this battery, just not through a complex system.
Hi! Is this battery monitor calculating the remaining batt capacity by estimating from voltage (what most cheap monitors do) or actually calculating from Ah going IN/OUT over time (what Victron does)? Many cheap monitors do actually show either positive or negative current to tell you if you are in net charging/consumption mode - but when displaying capacity % they still estimate from V.
Wow! You are the first American RV owner that has actually used proper plain English to explain something without babbling on about unrelated stuff. Loved this video. New sub!
One thing many of us forget is that with any lead acid (including AGM) batteries, we can only use 50% of the rated capacity. If we use more than that we can damage the batteries. I recommend you decrease the Amp Hours to 1/2 of what you set in the video. Thank you for the video - I just ordered this monitor from Amazon.
I read the comments just to see if anybody else thought the same thingI just bought one myself and I'm going to set it to 50% of the total amp hours. I have a total of 140 amp hours so I'm going to set mine to 70 amp hours at 100% on the battery meter. Thanks
I believe from watching another video there is a setting where you can set your 0% reference voltage where you like it. Not sure if changing your capacity might throw other data out of spec?
This is good to know. I still run a lead acid battery so will not let it get below 50 per cent. It has a built in battery monitor. That being said I really like my LiFePO battery as it doesn't have this problem (although for long-term non-use, better that the battery is left at 70 per cent charge rather than 100 per cent).
I read the instructions and could not make heads or tails. I watched your video and set my Camway up in short order. Thank you Lou for an excellent video and explanation!
my negative cable running to my battery is just grounded on the trailer is this the way your negative cable is? I have one of these on order and will be installing in a few days. Thanks
Great directions I just set mine up. By the way I used a 2 1/8 hole saw and it worked great. It was just a little bit snug and I really didn’t even need the mounting bracket at the back but I installed anyhow. Thanks so much for the tutorial! Have a great day!
just a trick for young players - prior to drilling a hole in you RV - at least hook it up ( dry fit) and make sure its working) love your work - clarity of explanation is pretty good
The percentage doesn't change after I've charged the batteries. It's shows the drain % as I'm using it but not the charged. To get it to show 100% charged I keep having to change the charge % manually. Is there a connection I need to change to enable the charge to be shown whenever I charge the batteries?
How do you get that 12 gauge wire to the positive battery terminal to go into that little green connection? It looks like it takes 18-20 gauge max. Speaker wire?
Just finished install, took some time due to space. I was setting up the monitor, so 200 amp and 100% on full charge. I m on shore power, when I turn use/stop switch to use the monitor starts to show 1% than 2% like it charging battery is that’s correct? Even though it has been fully charged
Is your monitor still continuing to show zero even when it's full? When I connect to shorepower it's zeroing out pretty quickly for some reason. Can't figure out the problem.
Great install video. installed this on a 100 AH LifePo4 Lithium battery for on a kayak. I have concerns regarding the digital display part itself. I can keep it in the front hatch out of the weather, but it will be inconvenient to use there. Is there anyway to waterproof the readout itself that you know of? Another question I had is regarding the large shunt bolts themselves. Do you by chance know the specs on those bolts? I’m pretty sure I will need longer ones so I can fit all the negative wires onto the shunt. Thank you.
I have the same set up on my Kayak and was thinking the same thing. How often do you really need to check your battery reserve? Mine sits on top of the kayak I figure I'll just put a rag or shirt over it to keep it out of the direct sunlight.
Nice video...i have ordered this Monitor.....and a tip as an old retired 😏👍 Electrician.....never ever wear a metal or alum Watch ...when You are working with High current batteries !! This was close to the terminals ! Any short contact and you know what happens ! Greetings from Holland...
Great video, just got mine. Question you mention all Neg. cables go to B, but I see you still have a Neg. cable where the shunt is placed. Is that the connection to Neg to Neg for the two batteries? Is it ok to leave that one like that? So can I just use the main Neg. cable to the shunt? Thank you in advance
Man what a fantastic and easy to understand video! I have a little pop up camper and bought this same unit. Thanks for the video, and for explaining all the features/setup of the unit in plain English!
Excellent review! How weather resistant would you say the AiLi shunt is? I would like to mount mine in my battery compartment which is on a track under the cab of the vehicle and has a plastic shroud around it so water will not get in, but the batteries do show some road dirt over time. If the shunt is sensitive to that, I would need to create some sort of enclosure. Thanks!
Sweet instructions. I just installed one of these and couldnt get the % to work properly - watched this and booyah! I set Ah and % in the wrong order - all good now. Thanks.
Lines of flux around batteries dictates that they should always be positioned with positive and negative poles in line with each other, not positive next to negative like he has here.
Thank you for the easy to follow a long video. Great job but how ever Your links are messed up and take you to wrong supply’s needed. Here and on your website. I had to send back several things and figure out what I really needed. Battery Interconnect Cable link 5/16-Inch Lugs is wrong the shunt needs 3/8” lugs. Wrong link here too- 12AWG Inline Fuse Holder with a 30 amp fuse. Is way to big and the wire will not work with the shunt. Instead you need 16 AWG Gauge with 10 AMP Fuse.
Thanks for this video! I do have a question that you might be able to confirm with me. Im planning on running a Renogy DC-DC 30A charger w/ MPPT to monitor my portable battery generator box in the bed of my truck. The primary purpose of this power box is to power my ARB fridge, and be recharged while driving and/or solar. I will have a few 12V acc. outlets mounted to the box for convenience. The Renogy charger requires negatives from solar, starter battery, and house battery to be attached to one of 4 specific poles on the renogy unit, the other three poles on the renogy unit are specific to solar, starter battery, and house battery positive leads. I have decided to do a ground buss bar in the box so that i can combine all those negatives and have one single negative wire to the DC-DC charger to keep it simple and clean (still with me??).. if i want to monitor the house battery in the box, where do i mount the shunt? Do i put the B side of the shunt directly on the neg. house batt terminal, and then connect a negative lead from the p side of the shunt down to the negative buss bar? That would essentially have all grounds going to one ground source. Make sense to me, what do you think? Email me at jkhartel3@gmail.com if you can be more open for advice. Id be happy to share my setup for better understanding. Thanks again and great video.
Hi I bought one of these off Aliexpress and it looks the same ha ha! But it's not. Didn't come with the plastic case. I was just wondering if solar is connected that's putting power into the batter. I thought it was just for telling us the power going out. I've connected this up and works. Just a bummer no case.
i take it that this don't have a memory, i wanna install this on my e bike.i can connect this regular and power it up by ignition relay to turn off and on, .but i'll need to reset it every time. any thought on memory ?thanks
Helo, great video, thanks for sharing. What I dont get is the Voltage reading and the AH you configured. Are your batteries in serial or pararel configuration?
Great video, thank you for putting the time into it. I did cringe when you were working around the batteries with the metal watch band and the cables new cables moving about. Knowing in advance that you finished the video and posted it was the only verification that nothing happened in between. Again, thanks
thank you, thank you!! i bought a renogy batt monitor with a shunt, no directions. this is exactly what i was looking for! i puzzled it out, but seemed like something was missing. ~knew~ i needed an extra short neg batt cable! and my batt compartment is also super tight, and i was over-thinking how and where to mount the shunt. i'm going to use some 2-sided tape and simply stick it inside the box like you did.
Hi, I know that all negative come from loads go to (-P) of the shunt, what about the grounding wire that go from the negative terminal of battery to the chassis, should I connect to (-P) of shunt?
Yes all the negative wires that would connect to the battery go to the shunt. The only exception are wires used to connect batteries in parallel or series.
Good video man, best one I’ve seen to do with the AiLi. I’m curious though what size fuse are you running on the positive wire to the shunt? Most other videos I’ve watch no one else has fused their shunt power wire. Thinking better to fuse it then not.
Lou,Lou,Lou, Perfect info at just the right time. As I sit here , back at Hill AIr Force Base in Utah...on the way back from ABQ Balloon Fiesta, guess what has happened? The flooded house batteries, just gave me their last breath. They will not hold a charge longer than a couple of hours of trickle output current. I am now going to AGM because of the no maintenance and longer batt life, quicker charging....blah blah bla. When I get back to Portland I will be needing to get them and a monitor for them. Not sure on the brand of AGM yet, but like you I do not need to invest in Li-Ion. Great vid great time. P.S. my friend...Take the watch off when working on that hi current stuff. I know you know, just a friendly reminder my friend. Might wait til after winter to do batts, but will do the monitor while it’s in winter storage...kinda. Thx again my friend.
Hi Bruce it's funny you say that about the watch. I wear it so much I didn't realize it till I was editing the video. I will say two things. AGM is so great with basically connect it and forget it. The pleasure of no maintenance is worth the extra money. As for this battery monitor I can not recommend it enough. I love this thing. It gives current volts, amps remaining, life in a percentage and the best part is it tells you how many amps are either coming into batteries or out of batteries. So I finally know exactly how many amps I am using and how many amps are coming in. Best $40 I've spent on my RV. I am putting it on my list of must have upgrades. Have a safe trip home, Lou.
Lou, I bought the monitor a few days ago, it should be here today. My house batteries are completely dead. Holds a charge for a very short time. Not sure when I will do install, maybe this winter and not getting new batts until maybe spring. Anyway, I clicked on it from your link, so hopefully it works for you to get a little back. FYI. Bruce
Nice video - what is the draw of this meter when the camper is sitting? Since it is battery side of the disconnect. I am sure it's quite small, but is it something that would need to be watched if the camper is sitting for a month or more between uses?
I think I understand this…so do I take the wires currently on the negative terminal and connect them to the p-? My coach is super simple so I’ll just have the shunt wired to the neg of the battery and the negative wires from the coach (currently connected to the neg) will be connected to the p-? Thanks so much
Thank you Lou. Just ordered one and appreciate the install vid - weil done! Question: You said ALL other negative wires go to the left side of the Shunt (from Camera view) but you still have a big negative wire connected to the neg post on the battery. I don't understand. Appreciate and help :). Thanks again.
I just got 2 new 6v batteries and I'm going to program the meter for the new batteries. Did you ever set up the Preset Voltage Setting on yours? Also when you put in the AH capacity how do you know that number is the actual AH capacity of the battery? The sticker on the battery is only a reference not the actual. If the actual AH capacity is 90AH and you set the meter to 100Ah then you could be discharging your battery to 40% when the meter says 50%. Sorry for all the questions I'm just trying to wrap my head around the settings in the instructions.
You do not set any voltage. You only program the total Amp hours of battery bank. The best number to use is what the battery label indicates. I also reprogram and lower the total Amp hours by 5 percent each year for normal degradation.
I just got one of these and the display works fine for a while then turns off and then will never turn back on again until I disconnect the battery. I'm wondering if I have a faulty one.
yeah, i dont really like to have to go pressing buttons all the time, prefer one which you can choose the creen features and just leave it there........but thanks for the video.
A question for you on setup? I have 500 amp hours in my bank. AGM Batteries should not be drained 50%. should I program it as 250 amp hours so I wont go over the 50% discharge?
What if I also have a DC to DC charger charging my (lithium) battery? It doesn't go through the shunt because it's just a positive wire from car battery > DC to DC charger > aux battery. Is there a way to get my battery % to read correctly? When my car is on, I know the battery is being charged but the percentage in this monitor doesn't go up so I worry about it's accuracy..
That is above my knowledge on DC to DC chargers. However, I would assume the both batteries are grounded to the chassis and the shunt should be detecting this. Again, I am no expert I recommend checking with the pro's.
I bought one but lost the instructions.. Thanks for uploading a copy to your website. I bookmarked your site and will return often. Great and clearly explained video. Great work!
Thanks for the video but I have a question. The display is pulsing and I have it connected correcty as I have checked it 3 time and double checked by my wife. Both batteries are at 100 % and I have set the ah and %. I have the 2 - poles connected in paralelle then cable going to the B-, all others - going to the P-. Thoughts
Hello it’s my first time setting up a camper 2013 Forest River I need to now turn on the propane I am familiar with using a propane grill so remember the previous owner telling me how but it was about two months back Just want to be careful Thank you
you say after connecting to neg. of B side of sunt to battery all other neg. go to other side of sunt however you left 2 big negs. on the battery? I'm also using lead acid is the thick neg. jumper nessasary like can't the sunt slide over the screw on neg post? I like your videos good work you do on them.
I have two batteries connected in parallel so there is a short cable that connects the negative posts and positive posts on the batteries. One cable is needed to connect the shunt to the negative side of the battery bank. The negative cables that would typically connect directly to the battery bank is connected to the other side of the shunt.
So, monitor will work for two batterys connected in serial? I have 2 gel batterys abd each one have 12v and 300ah. They are connected in serial and give 24v
I'm using a Zamp connection for my solar charging. Will I need to route the negative on that to P1. Also... Would I connect battery charger to P1 also?
Directions say anything that would ordinarily be connected to the negative battery post gets connected to the shunt. This is so the shunt see's all power going out and going into the battery.
Thanks, I've just ordered one. So currently all my negatives go to chassis, battery, solar, accessories etc. So now I need to connect the battery to B and all other negatives + chassis to P?
Thanks for the clearly explained video. I got it! I do have a question about your experience with the monitor. After wiring everything I see where the display pulsates while charging is happening but when I put my rig in storage I always turn the main power switch to OFF, but the monitor display stays brightly lit and show a very small discharge. Bottom line is the monitor never seems to stop monitoring and show the discharge and I've been told by others that thats' due to the Carbon Monoxide monitor. Does this seem right to you. I thought the main power switch would separate the monitor like the lights etc.
Hi Bill, That is correct that certain things like the carbon monoxide detector will stay on even though you turn on the battery disconnect. The monitor will also stay on as it is connected directly to the battery. The light on mine goes off after a few seconds unless the battery is charging.
@@RVHabit Thank you! So I'm guessing you don't have a carbon Monoxide detector. So my AiLi monitor backlight light will never go off then. I wonder if this will impact its life. It certainly makes storage during off season a challenge since the batteries are always discharging.. some.
I do have a carbon monoxide alarm and yes it stays on. The only way to totally turn everything off is to disconnect the negative battery cable from the batteries. The light on my AiLi only stays on when the batteries are charging.
@@billsanders8793 The monitor is hardwired directly to the battery before the disconnect. You could mount it after the disconnect to make it switch off, or just manually disconnect your batteries during the off-season (I always take the batteries out and store them inside during winter).
@@billsanders8793I don’t know if you know this but if you hold the V and % buttons at the same time for about 5 seconds you can toggle the display light off. Handy at night if you don’t want that light to be displayed. My monitor is in the front bedroom so it’s important for me.
Nice job! but remember that you don't discharge the flooded batteries below 50% with out damage. When installing/ programming my AiLi monitor I programmed it for 105 Amp hrs with a 210 capacity. That way my 50% shows empty.
I actually forgot to mention that for people who are unaware about 50% for flooded and AGM lead acid batteries. Good idea about programming half the amp hours.
Hey Lou- I'm having trouble connecting the power cable to the monitor. The 12v fused wire - the gauge is too big to connect to the input on the monitor. Do you have any suggestions please?
Hi Dan, Let your converter charge up the batteries for a day. Then you can disconnect batteries from coach to ensure there is no draw on them. After about three hours of rest the batteries should read about 12.7 volts on a multimeter.
Hi there, does the percentage go back to 100% as well as the Ah value when the battery is back to full charge? I noticed that whatever was remaining it stayed at those values cheers
This monitor has a place, but it is not a substitute for a Victron. It’s synchronisation is very basic and does not rely on a tail current etc. Better than nothing, but you get what you pay for…..
Hi John, I agree it is basic and the Victron is certainly more sophisticated in its calculations. However this very affordable monitor is a great alternative for most weekend and vacation campers trying to keep an eye on the basic condition of the batteries. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. Happy camping.
Only thing I noticed is that you only have 105 ah in réality because led acid batteries can only be discharged to 50% But very nice explanation and instruction
That is correct, you never want to run a lead acid battery under 50 percent of its capacity. I have since upgraded to lithium for a full 200 amp hours.
The directions state to connect to the battery. However I would think you can connect anywhere that continues to receive power even if the battery disconnect switch is in off position. You want the monitor to work all the time because even with disconnect switch off the battery may have some draw on it.
great video one question on my camper i have a 50w solar panel on top of camper in my battery box all i have is a positive and negative cable when hooking up shunt do i have to worry about the 50w solar power
Well it is hard to answer not looking at a totality of your RVs wiring. However the solar needs to be connected to the negative somewhere to work properly. You may have a negative terminal block somewhere that ties into the negative cable to the battery. If that is the case you should be fine.
Yes it does go back to 100% automatically. It counts what goes out and in the battery. I would recommend re-calibrating it once or twice a year as your batteries will lose amp hour capacity as they age.
In series it adds the voltage the amp hours stay the same. Parallel keeps the voltage the same and adds the amp hours. i.e. Two 6v batteries of 100 amp hours each wired in series create a 12v bank with 100 amp hours.
![[TH] FS vs BME - VCT Ascension Pacific - Lower Bracket Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnygqsR2Fig/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this video. I followed your instructions and everything worked great! One detail I'll pass along. The display backlight slowly pulses on and off when your batteries are charging. This detail is not in the directions that come with the battery monitor. I discovered online that some people find it annoying at night if the display is located in your RV. I mounted mine in the battery bay and not in the trailer for this reason. Thanks again for an easy the follow and accurate video! Cheers!
Yes the light pulses. I have never found it annoying but may do.
@@RVHabit The backlight can also be turned off or on by holding down the two arrow buttons for three seconds. Cheers!
Excellent tip.
I just finished installing a QWork battery monitor. It is just like the AiLi. The monitor itself, the shunt, the instructions, and all connections are exactly like the AiLi. The shunt was a 500w and I needed to use a 13 foot extension wire. The QWork is about $10.00 more than the AiLi. Amazon was out of the AiLi but they had the QWork. My installation was in a travel trailer. I watched this video a number of times and it made the installation easy! Thank you very much for a clear and concise installation video. I’ll be boondocking for four days. The new monitor will allow me to keep track of battery usage.
Yes the QWork is the same monitor just different branding. I'm glad the video helped out.
Awesome video, getting mine tomorrow. Answered every little nagging doubt I had.
Thank you very much for taking the time out of your life to help me and other folks.
Hi Jason, Glad it helped! For the price I haven't found better.
@@RVHabit thanks! ordering a couple tomorrow
Wow! You really helped me hook up this shunt properly. You also answered someone's question about how to correctly connect attache solar panels via the charge controller to the "P" post of the a shunt. That's what I did after reading your answer to that question. It worked. Thank you very much!
Hi Steven, Glad I could help!
i was too lazy to look at instructions. so i just looked it up on youtube. and thanks you helped me.
Love to hear it!
Hi! If you accurate want to monitor, and really to know how much percent you have, you must to programm the monitor when your inverter or charger is tuned off!!! Now you have a fault measurement. 14,5 Volts x 210 Ah = 3045 Wh and that is your 100% . But when your charger not running your Battery have around 12,5 V x 210 Ah = 2625 Wh! Fault size: 16% ! But the video is great! Cheers
Hi Gergely, Excellent point.
I have new GrandDesign Imagine that has a battery monitor in it. It looks the same but is Furrion branded. Just got it programmed tonight with help from this video. Turned out I needed to press the A/Ah but twice before holding for three seconds which I figured out watching your video. Manual is not the best.
It wasn’t working when I got the trailer. Didn’t realize it until later since they placed it in the basement control center. Had to trace the battery negative backwards to locate the shunt. Which was buried. When I found that there was an inline fuse that was blown so an easy fix. Not worth driving back to the dealer.
Glad the video helped.
Lou, this is probably one of the most complete and detailed over views I have yet seen on YT.
it's perfect and exactly what I needed!
Thanks so much!!
With my if I have on the display volts and then press the middle button for three seconds I can then set the volts from 0 to 120 . Not sure what this relates to.
Great video. Clear and well articulated instructions, thanks.
Quick question, mine came with a 500 amp shunt, does that matter at all when it comes to the accuracy of the readings?
Thanks.
Hi Jeff, I have the 500 amp shunt also. It is perfectly fine and will allow you to connect any accessories you may want to add in the future like an inverter or solar.
I have 270AH and have this capacity monitor wired, though I wondering there’s an issues, reason being is I can run inverter/laptop & speaker, projector, pS4, and more, all while seeing little drop on the monitor after hours of use! Maybe I’m just too used to the old lead acid truck battery, which had me anxious all the time. This new setup seams amazing.
Slightly off topic but I’m just a bit curious on your battery setup because I’m trying to set up my trailer. The instructions you provided were excellent.
That looks like a parallel set up but why is there more then one heavy wire on each of the positives? I thought when you do a parallel set up you go positive to positive, negative to negative, then with the positive from the coach to one of the batteries and the negative from the coach to the other battery to allow equalized charging.
Yes they are set in parallel. There is an extra positive wire for the hydraulic jacks. Watch this video to see how I wired the batteries th-cam.com/video/6-k7PUWFRMg/w-d-xo.html
Great video! Would it be possible or advisable to lengthen the meter wire with the same gauge? The control panel is a fair distance from the battery. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
They sell an extension cable for the meter. You can find it at amzn.to/2v3HAYE
Would anyone know a reason for it resetting itself back to 0 after a few hours??🤷🏻♂️
What size fuse did you use for the shunts power cable?
I used a 5 Amp fuse with 16 awg wire.
Thanks
I don't have an RV or "system" I just have a single 100ah Lithium battery that I would like to monitor. Can I still hook this up? Thanks in advance.
Hi, I don't see why not. However if you're not pulling any power from the battery a multimeter may be a better option.
@@RVHabit Hey thanks for the reply. I'm building a camper and for power I have one of those "solar generators" that I use for other things. I would just be hooking up my RV fan and small 12v fridge straight to this battery with a fuse in there, but that's it.. So yes, I would be drawing power from this battery, just not through a complex system.
Then it should certainly work. Good luck.
Hi! Is this battery monitor calculating the remaining batt capacity by estimating from voltage (what most cheap monitors do) or actually calculating from Ah going IN/OUT over time (what Victron does)? Many cheap monitors do actually show either positive or negative current to tell you if you are in net charging/consumption mode - but when displaying capacity % they still estimate from V.
This monitor is measuring amp hours out and amp hours in. It does not estimate voltage.
Wow! You are the first American RV owner that has actually used proper plain English to explain something without babbling on about unrelated stuff. Loved this video. New sub!
LOL thats funny. Most would say I have a heavy accent from the Northeast US. I do try to get to the point though. Thanks so much for watching!!
ill second that and im in liverpool
LOL!
Some Yanks do speak well!
Lol the truth
One thing many of us forget is that with any lead acid (including AGM) batteries, we can only use 50% of the rated capacity. If we use more than that we can damage the batteries. I recommend you decrease the Amp Hours to 1/2 of what you set in the video. Thank you for the video - I just ordered this monitor from Amazon.
Yes Steve any lead acid battery should only be used to 50 percent of its capacity. Thanks for watching.
I read the comments just to see if anybody else thought the same thingI just bought one myself and I'm going to set it to 50% of the total amp hours. I have a total of 140 amp hours so I'm going to set mine to 70 amp hours at 100% on the battery meter. Thanks
Since we all already know that, we all already know that once this thing says 50%, it’s time to make some changes.
I believe from watching another video there is a setting where you can set your 0% reference voltage where you like it. Not sure if changing your capacity might throw other data out of spec?
This is good to know. I still run a lead acid battery so will not let it get below 50 per cent. It has a built in battery monitor. That being said I really like my LiFePO battery as it doesn't have this problem (although for long-term non-use, better that the battery is left at 70 per cent charge rather than 100 per cent).
Fantastic! I purchased this exact monitor for my boat and your install video was exactly what I needed. Very clear.
hi im glad it helped out.
I read the instructions and could not make heads or tails. I watched your video and set my Camway up in short order. Thank you Lou for an excellent video and explanation!
Wonderful! Glad it helped.
my negative cable running to my battery is just grounded on the trailer is this the way your negative cable is? I have one of these on order and will be installing in a few days. Thanks
Hi, Yes that is typical on how to ground the trailer.
Great directions I just set mine up. By the way I used a 2 1/8 hole saw and it worked great. It was just a little bit snug and I really didn’t even need the mounting bracket at the back but I installed anyhow. Thanks so much for the tutorial! Have a great day!
Nice work!
just a trick for young players - prior to drilling a hole in you RV - at least hook it up ( dry fit) and make sure its working) love your work - clarity of explanation is pretty good
Hi Ian, that's a great tip! Thanks for commenting.
The percentage doesn't change after I've charged the batteries. It's shows the drain % as I'm using it but not the charged. To get it to show 100% charged I keep having to change the charge % manually. Is there a connection I need to change to enable the charge to be shown whenever I charge the batteries?
How do you get that 12 gauge wire to the positive battery terminal to go into that little green connection? It looks like it takes 18-20 gauge max. Speaker wire?
Yes you need to connect a smaller gauge wire to the fuse holder. I used 16 AWG.
did you use velcro to secure the shunt to the battery? I think that is what I might do. Or was your shunt just laying there? Great video BTW
Hi Geryy, Yes, I used Velcro to attach the shunt to the top of the battery.
Just finished install, took some time due to space. I was setting up the monitor, so 200 amp and 100% on full charge. I m on shore power, when I turn use/stop switch to use the monitor starts to show 1% than 2% like it charging battery is that’s correct? Even though it has been fully charged
Hold down the % key for 3 seconds to set to 100.
Thks
Is your monitor still continuing to show zero even when it's full? When I connect to shorepower it's zeroing out pretty quickly for some reason. Can't figure out the problem.
Great install video. installed this on a 100 AH LifePo4 Lithium battery for on a kayak. I have concerns regarding the digital display part itself. I can keep it in the front hatch out of the weather, but it will be inconvenient to use there. Is there anyway to waterproof the readout itself that you know of?
Another question I had is regarding the large shunt bolts themselves. Do you by chance know the specs on those bolts? I’m pretty sure I will need longer ones so I can fit all the negative wires onto the shunt. Thank you.
I have the same set up on my Kayak and was thinking the same thing. How often do you really need to check your battery reserve? Mine sits on top of the kayak I figure I'll just put a rag or shirt over it to keep it out of the direct sunlight.
Hello. Can someone tell me if it is possible to monitor smarphone battery with this device? I have Xiaomi Mi 9T 4000mAh. Thanks
Nice video...i have ordered this Monitor.....and a tip as an old retired 😏👍 Electrician.....never ever wear a metal or alum Watch ...when You are working with High current batteries !! This was close to the terminals ! Any short contact and you know what happens ! Greetings from Holland...
You are absolutely correct. I didn't realize I left my watch on till I was editing the video. Thanks so much for watching.
Great video, just got mine. Question you mention all Neg. cables go to B, but I see you still have a Neg. cable where the shunt is placed. Is that the connection to Neg to Neg for the two batteries? Is it ok to leave that one like that? So can I just use the main Neg. cable to the shunt? Thank you in advance
Yes my batteries are connected in parallel. This remains the same. The load negative wires such as chassis negative go to the P side of the shunt.
Thanks, already set up all as you posted. Waiting for batteries to be fully charge.
Man what a fantastic and easy to understand video! I have a little pop up camper and bought this same unit. Thanks for the video, and for explaining all the features/setup of the unit in plain English!
Hi Benjamin, Awesome, thank you!
Great vid! Could you maybe tell me what the bolt size of the shunt connectors is?
Excellent, super clean installation Lou!! Nice work as always!!
Thank you this is a great upgrade. Works like a charm.
thanks for the video mine did not come with any instructions at all
Go to rvhabit.com they are in PDF form on the blog article
Excellent review! How weather resistant would you say the AiLi shunt is? I would like to mount mine in my battery compartment which is on a track under the cab of the vehicle and has a plastic shroud around it so water will not get in, but the batteries do show some road dirt over time. If the shunt is sensitive to that, I would need to create some sort of enclosure. Thanks!
Sweet instructions. I just installed one of these and couldnt get the % to work properly - watched this and booyah! I set Ah and % in the wrong order - all good now. Thanks.
Glad it helped. I am loving this monitor for the price.
Lines of flux around batteries dictates that they should always be positioned with positive and negative poles in line with each other, not positive next to negative like he has here.
Thank you for the easy to follow a long video. Great job but how ever
Your links are messed up and take you to wrong supply’s needed. Here and on your website. I had to send back several things and figure out what I really needed.
Battery Interconnect Cable link 5/16-Inch Lugs is wrong the shunt needs 3/8” lugs.
Wrong link here too- 12AWG Inline Fuse Holder with a 30 amp fuse. Is way to big and the wire will not work with the shunt. Instead you need 16 AWG Gauge with 10 AMP Fuse.
I have this same. But it working different. My display never turn off and my percentage is automatically reseted to 0 but i dont know why 😢
Yes, this was excellent. Took me a while to figure mine out, the Chinese instructions left a lot to be desired. Watching this confirmed I got it right
Great to hear!
Thanks for this video! I do have a question that you might be able to confirm with me. Im planning on running a Renogy DC-DC 30A charger w/ MPPT to monitor my portable battery generator box in the bed of my truck. The primary purpose of this power box is to power my ARB fridge, and be recharged while driving and/or solar. I will have a few 12V acc. outlets mounted to the box for convenience. The Renogy charger requires negatives from solar, starter battery, and house battery to be attached to one of 4 specific poles on the renogy unit, the other three poles on the renogy unit are specific to solar, starter battery, and house battery positive leads. I have decided to do a ground buss bar in the box so that i can combine all those negatives and have one single negative wire to the DC-DC charger to keep it simple and clean (still with me??).. if i want to monitor the house battery in the box, where do i mount the shunt? Do i put the B side of the shunt directly on the neg. house batt terminal, and then connect a negative lead from the p side of the shunt down to the negative buss bar? That would essentially have all grounds going to one ground source. Make sense to me, what do you think? Email me at jkhartel3@gmail.com if you can be more open for advice. Id be happy to share my setup for better understanding. Thanks again and great video.
Hi I bought one of these off Aliexpress and it looks the same ha ha! But it's not. Didn't come with the plastic case. I was just wondering if solar is connected that's putting power into the batter. I thought it was just for telling us the power going out. I've connected this up and works. Just a bummer no case.
i take it that this don't have a memory, i wanna install this on my e bike.i can connect this regular and power it up by ignition relay to turn off and on, .but i'll need to reset it every time. any thought on memory ?thanks
Hi great video. I was wondering what size of fuse would be appropriate in the small battery wire from the shunt would be.
Hi I used a 5 amp fuse with 16AWG wire.
@@RVHabit Thank you.
Nice video. That setup monitors the overall state of both batteries in parallel. Is there any need to monitor the individual batteries?
Hi Brian, no when batteries are connected in parallel the act as one battery.
@@RVHabit Thank you--understood. I was just wondering if there was a way to monitor the health of each battery.
Pretty good video friend. Short and sweet and no B.S. I just bought one of these on Amazon and your video is helpful to plan my install.
Good to hear Joseph. This is a super cheap upgrade that has worked great.
Great video, I was thinking about mounting one but was concerned as how to find a plug to install the monitor power wire, you helped me out thanks.
My unit did not move from 100% Capacity even when the battery depleted to 12.80V.
Has anyone used the new battery coulomb counter KG140F?
Helo, great video, thanks for sharing. What I dont get is the Voltage reading and the AH you configured. Are your batteries in serial or pararel configuration?
I have two 12v 105 amp hour batteries wired in parallel for a total of 210 amp hours. When fully charged the voltage percentage should be 100%.
Great video, thank you for putting the time into it.
I did cringe when you were working around the batteries with the metal watch band and the cables new cables moving about.
Knowing in advance that you finished the video and posted it was the only verification that nothing happened in between.
Again, thanks
Hi Bryan, you are correct about the watch. I didn't realize I left it on till I was editing the video. Thanks for watching.
Do you know if you can install this monitor at the end of my 10 foot cables before my 4000 watt inverter?
Thanks so much for your guidance. It really made my install easy. Well, except for running the wire from battery to the monitor.🤣
Yes running wires inside walls is always the hardest part. Hope you like the monitor. I am very happy with mine.
Do you have the manufacturer contact information or website? I can’t find this information anywhere.
Does this work with my charge controller
Mine came with the bt15
Thanks
Hi there, if you have a solar controller....do you connect the negative from the controller to the P of the shunt, or to the battery?
Thanks,
Ian.
The negative should go to the P on the shunt. This allows the meter to calculate how much power is going back into the batteries.
Lou, I followed your steps and it worked. It's so great knowing my percentage and not having to guess. Thank you brother, you're the best. Levi.
Hi Levi, Fantastic!
Great Job Lou, I'll keep this video on file for the next TIMROVER! See ya' on the road soon! NICE!
Thanks Tim, this is a great addition to my new AGM battery bank.
If i used this shunt for a trolling motor with a lithium battery would i need a breaker?
thank you, thank you!! i bought a renogy batt monitor with a shunt, no directions. this is exactly what i was looking for! i puzzled it out, but seemed like something was missing. ~knew~ i needed an extra short neg batt cable! and my batt compartment is also super tight, and i was over-thinking how and where to mount the shunt. i'm going to use some 2-sided tape and simply stick it inside the box like you did.
So glad it helped!
Hi, I know that all negative come from loads go to (-P) of the shunt, what about the grounding wire that go from the negative terminal of battery to the chassis, should I connect to (-P) of shunt?
Yes all the negative wires that would connect to the battery go to the shunt. The only exception are wires used to connect batteries in parallel or series.
Hey mate I have the same shunt 350 amp I can’t get the amp to to show when there is amps coming out any idea thanks
Good video man, best one I’ve seen to do with the AiLi. I’m curious though what size fuse are you running on the positive wire to the shunt?
Most other videos I’ve watch no one else has fused their shunt power wire. Thinking better to fuse it then not.
Thank you. I always fuse any wire that pulls power. I used 12AWG wire and a 5 amp fuse.
Thank you. I always fuse any wire that pulls power. I used 12AWG wire and a 5 amp fuse.
Always fuse, or you blow your meter... Like i did.
Lou,Lou,Lou, Perfect info at just the right time. As I sit here , back at Hill AIr Force Base in Utah...on the way back from ABQ Balloon Fiesta, guess what has happened? The flooded house batteries, just gave me their last breath. They will not hold a charge longer than a couple of hours of trickle output current. I am now going to AGM because of the no maintenance and longer batt life, quicker charging....blah blah bla. When I get back to Portland I will be needing to get them and a monitor for them. Not sure on the brand of AGM yet, but like you I do not need to invest in Li-Ion. Great vid great time. P.S. my friend...Take the watch off when working on that hi current stuff. I know you know, just a friendly reminder my friend. Might wait til after winter to do batts, but will do the monitor while it’s in winter storage...kinda. Thx again my friend.
Hi Bruce it's funny you say that about the watch. I wear it so much I didn't realize it till I was editing the video. I will say two things. AGM is so great with basically connect it and forget it. The pleasure of no maintenance is worth the extra money. As for this battery monitor I can not recommend it enough. I love this thing. It gives current volts, amps remaining, life in a percentage and the best part is it tells you how many amps are either coming into batteries or out of batteries. So I finally know exactly how many amps I am using and how many amps are coming in. Best $40 I've spent on my RV. I am putting it on my list of must have upgrades. Have a safe trip home, Lou.
Lou, I bought the monitor a few days ago, it should be here today. My house batteries are completely dead. Holds a charge for a very short time. Not sure when I will do install, maybe this winter and not getting new batts until maybe spring. Anyway, I clicked on it from your link, so hopefully it works for you to get a little back. FYI. Bruce
@@RVEnthusiast Thanks Bruce, I am real happy with it so far.
Nice video - what is the draw of this meter when the camper is sitting? Since it is battery side of the disconnect. I am sure it's quite small, but is it something that would need to be watched if the camper is sitting for a month or more between uses?
The spec sheet states 0.5 mA. I have not tested it to confirm the listed specs.
brilliant video my friend , iv just got one of these and your explanation was perfect , thank you very much
Thank you and hope it helps.
Concise + informative video- great job! What size wire did you use for the power to the shunt + what amp rating fuse? Keep up the good work!
I used a 16AWG with a 5 amp fuse.
What gauge wire from the battery negative to the shunt?? It looks about 4AWG??
Cheers
Hi Steve, I used 1/0 AWG.
@@RVHabit wow that's a huge dia.
Had to Google it, it can handle about 300A, that's a sh!t load of amps.
Cheers
I think I understand this…so do I take the wires currently on the negative terminal and connect them to the p-? My coach is super simple so I’ll just have the shunt wired to the neg of the battery and the negative wires from the coach (currently connected to the neg) will be connected to the p-? Thanks so much
Yes its that simple.
Thank you Lou. Just ordered one and appreciate the install vid - weil done! Question: You said ALL other negative wires go to the left side of the Shunt (from Camera view) but you still have a big negative wire connected to the neg post on the battery. I don't understand. Appreciate and help :). Thanks again.
My batteries are connected in parallel. You are seeing the negative cable that connects the two batteries together.
I just got 2 new 6v batteries and I'm going to program the meter for the new batteries. Did you ever set up the Preset Voltage Setting on yours? Also when you put in the AH capacity how do you know that number is the actual AH capacity of the battery? The sticker on the battery is only a reference not the actual. If the actual AH capacity is 90AH and you set the meter to 100Ah then you could be discharging your battery to 40% when the meter says 50%. Sorry for all the questions I'm just trying to wrap my head around the settings in the instructions.
You do not set any voltage. You only program the total Amp hours of battery bank. The best number to use is what the battery label indicates. I also reprogram and lower the total Amp hours by 5 percent each year for normal degradation.
I just got one of these and the display works fine for a while then turns off and then will never turn back on again until I disconnect the battery. I'm wondering if I have a faulty one.
That does not sound right. It should always been on. The display will go to sleep after a while. You press the center button to wake it up.
yeah, i dont really like to have to go pressing buttons all the time, prefer one which you can choose the creen features and just leave it there........but thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching.
Fantastic information gleaned from your video. Just bought one of these monitors and your video is in my favourite. Thanks pal.
Thanks so much.
A question for you on setup? I have 500 amp hours in my bank. AGM Batteries should not be drained 50%. should I program it as 250 amp hours so I wont go over the 50% discharge?
I do not recommend that. Set it for full 500 Amp hours. You know at 50 percent to charge.
great video, only thing i would ask is, why not wire the shunt power to the + terminal right next to it :)
You could certainly do that.
What if I also have a DC to DC charger charging my (lithium) battery? It doesn't go through the shunt because it's just a positive wire from car battery > DC to DC charger > aux battery. Is there a way to get my battery % to read correctly? When my car is on, I know the battery is being charged but the percentage in this monitor doesn't go up so I worry about it's accuracy..
That is above my knowledge on DC to DC chargers. However, I would assume the both batteries are grounded to the chassis and the shunt should be detecting this. Again, I am no expert I recommend checking with the pro's.
I bought one but lost the instructions.. Thanks for uploading a copy to your website. I bookmarked your site and will return often. Great and clearly explained video. Great work!
Thanks Victor, I try to put the instructions to any upgrade I do on my website. Glad it helped out.
Thanks for the video but I have a question. The display is pulsing and I have it connected correcty as I have checked it 3 time and double checked by my wife. Both batteries are at 100 % and I have set the ah and %. I have the 2 - poles connected in paralelle then cable going to the B-, all others - going to the P-. Thoughts
Hi Bill, the display will pulse when a load is being pulled from the batteries.
Hello it’s my first time setting up a camper 2013 Forest River
I need to now turn on the propane
I am familiar with using a propane grill so remember the previous owner telling me how but it was about two months back
Just want to be careful
Thank you
Should work just like your BBQ tank. Just turn the knob to open. It helps to then light the stove to get any air out of the lines.
you say after connecting to neg. of B side of sunt to battery all other neg. go to other side of sunt however you left 2 big negs. on the battery?
I'm also using lead acid is the thick neg. jumper nessasary like can't the sunt slide over the screw on neg post? I like your videos good work you do on them.
I have two batteries connected in parallel so there is a short cable that connects the negative posts and positive posts on the batteries. One cable is needed to connect the shunt to the negative side of the battery bank. The negative cables that would typically connect directly to the battery bank is connected to the other side of the shunt.
So, monitor will work for two batterys connected in serial?
I have 2 gel batterys abd each one have 12v and 300ah. They are connected in serial and give 24v
I have not tried it on a 24v system but I see no reason why it would not work.
I'm using a Zamp connection for my solar charging. Will I need to route the negative on that to P1. Also... Would I connect battery charger to P1 also?
Directions say anything that would ordinarily be connected to the negative battery post gets connected to the shunt. This is so the shunt see's all power going out and going into the battery.
Thanks, I've just ordered one. So currently all my negatives go to chassis, battery, solar, accessories etc. So now I need to connect the battery to B and all other negatives + chassis to P?
Yes battery negative to B all other negatives to P
Thanks for the clearly explained video. I got it! I do have a question about your experience with the monitor. After wiring everything I see where the display pulsates while charging is happening but when I put my rig in storage I always turn the main power switch to OFF, but the monitor display stays brightly lit and show a very small discharge. Bottom line is the monitor never seems to stop monitoring and show the discharge and I've been told by others that thats' due to the Carbon Monoxide monitor. Does this seem right to you. I thought the main power switch would separate the monitor like the lights etc.
Hi Bill, That is correct that certain things like the carbon monoxide detector will stay on even though you turn on the battery disconnect. The monitor will also stay on as it is connected directly to the battery. The light on mine goes off after a few seconds unless the battery is charging.
@@RVHabit Thank you! So I'm guessing you don't have a carbon Monoxide detector. So my AiLi monitor backlight light will never go off then. I wonder if this will impact its life. It certainly makes storage during off season a challenge since the batteries are always discharging.. some.
I do have a carbon monoxide alarm and yes it stays on. The only way to totally turn everything off is to disconnect the negative battery cable from the batteries. The light on my AiLi only stays on when the batteries are charging.
@@billsanders8793 The monitor is hardwired directly to the battery before the disconnect. You could mount it after the disconnect to make it switch off, or just manually disconnect your batteries during the off-season (I always take the batteries out and store them inside during winter).
@@billsanders8793I don’t know if you know this but if you hold the V and % buttons at the same time for about 5 seconds you can toggle the display light off. Handy at night if you don’t want that light to be displayed. My monitor is in the front bedroom so it’s important for me.
Nice job! but remember that you don't discharge the flooded batteries below 50% with out damage. When installing/ programming my AiLi monitor I programmed it for 105 Amp hrs with a 210 capacity. That way my 50% shows empty.
I actually forgot to mention that for people who are unaware about 50% for flooded and AGM lead acid batteries. Good idea about programming half the amp hours.
Hey Lou- I'm having trouble connecting the power cable to the monitor. The 12v fused wire - the gauge is too big to connect to the input on the monitor. Do you have any suggestions please?
just attach a smaller gauge wire to the fuse wire. I believe I used a 16 AWG and a 5 amp fuse.
is the 1/0 battery cable the minimum size? I have a 206ah battery, so would the cable just need to be big enough to accommodate at least 210 amps?
Cable size has a lot of variables such as length of run. I would use at least the current size in your RV or greater. Good luck.
This might seem like a stupid question, but how do you know if your batteries are fully charged, if you haven't connected the battery monitor yet?
Hi Dan, Let your converter charge up the batteries for a day. Then you can disconnect batteries from coach to ensure there is no draw on them. After about three hours of rest the batteries should read about 12.7 volts on a multimeter.
Does it have a setting for lithium?? I'm just curious because the voltage drops off in a hurry. It'd be nice if it compensated for that.
It states it is good for all types of batteries but does not have any settings to change battery type.
Lou, I may have misspoke. I'm not sure the battery post are 3/8", but the post on the shunt is. The 6" cable has to be modified on one end?
Yes battery posts are different sizes (positive vs negative). The shunt may be bigger so just modify the short cable connecter.
I setup my Aili battery monitor to 200ah now my soc only reads %50 even though its fully charged?
You need to fully charge batteries and reset the monitor to 100 percent.
Hi there, does the percentage go back to 100% as well as the Ah value when the battery is back to full charge? I noticed that whatever was remaining it stayed at those values cheers
Yes as the batteries are replenished the monitor should rise back up to show current state of charge.
This monitor has a place, but it is not a substitute for a Victron. It’s synchronisation is very basic and does not rely on a tail current etc.
Better than nothing, but you get what you pay for…..
Hi John, I agree it is basic and the Victron is certainly more sophisticated in its calculations. However this very affordable monitor is a great alternative for most weekend and vacation campers trying to keep an eye on the basic condition of the batteries. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. Happy camping.
Only thing I noticed is that you only have 105 ah in réality because led acid batteries can only be discharged to 50% But very nice explanation and instruction
That is correct, you never want to run a lead acid battery under 50 percent of its capacity. I have since upgraded to lithium for a full 200 amp hours.
Fantastic video, very well explained, one question,
Does the power wire really has to go to the battery, can it go anywhere where there’s power?
The directions state to connect to the battery. However I would think you can connect anywhere that continues to receive power even if the battery disconnect switch is in off position. You want the monitor to work all the time because even with disconnect switch off the battery may have some draw on it.
great video one question on my camper i have a 50w solar panel on top of camper in my battery box all i have is a positive and negative cable when hooking up shunt do i have to worry about the 50w solar power
Well it is hard to answer not looking at a totality of your RVs wiring. However the solar needs to be connected to the negative somewhere to work properly. You may have a negative terminal block somewhere that ties into the negative cable to the battery. If that is the case you should be fine.
Great video! Does it reset/calibrate automatically when reaching full/empty charge again?
Yes it does go back to 100% automatically. It counts what goes out and in the battery. I would recommend re-calibrating it once or twice a year as your batteries will lose amp hour capacity as they age.
The batteries in series doubles the voltage and the capacity stays at 100 AH , not 200. Is this true?
In series it adds the voltage the amp hours stay the same. Parallel keeps the voltage the same and adds the amp hours. i.e. Two 6v batteries of 100 amp hours each wired in series create a 12v bank with 100 amp hours.