A few years ago, i was called in by a buddy to help him rewire a brand new house from which all the wire had been cut and stolen by tweakers who broke in. To steal less than $100 worth of copper scrap value, they did over $2000 in damage. We also had to cut above the service panel to re- feed the new romex into the box, because the bums didnt leave enough at the top of the wall to connect to. (And it wouldnt have been code anyway, as each circuit has to be a contiguous run)
Replaced a mast riser that had been bent by a truck hitting the service drop where they crossed the driveway. We were 100 feet from the pole which is about max around here. Tied the drop off to the chimney which wasn't in line with the pole so had another rope tied off to a car for a little sideways pull. Worked out fine. Had the keys for the car in my pocket LOL. Raised the mast higher and added guy wires to it.
I love how you put the main breaker at the bottom. I don’t see this enough. Too many guys run those giant 4/0 wires from bottom to top and waste all that gutter space just to make the main at the top, even when it throws side to side.
Stop hating. This is how it’s done in our area. We often don’t use meter mains and sometimes it’s a pain to and always it’s more expensive Would you cover the additional cost yourself if the client did not want to pay for a meter/main combo? Also, 2 ground rods are required even with a cold water ground (250.53 (a)(2) ) unless you get one ground rod certified 25 ohms or less. Too many young sparkies on the internet look to call out others’ work and mostly they’re uninformed. Great work Classic Electric!
I stand corrected that you didn’t know about the 25 ohms John Davies because I saw it in your other comment. Apologies. But for this same reason you still need 2 with the water ground. And the meter only with main breaker is how we all do it in jersey and PA
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Impressive how you attached those two hot wires to the service mast without gloves. I imagine that the service drop wires were live, correct? I know that technically, you are OK as long as the hot wires don’t touch each other or the neutral, and as long as you are not grounded yourself.
This is the most educational video of showing 200 AMP Mast Service Upgrade! Great work Ron! After you connect the new wire to utility wire, will utility company do anything? It seems you've done everything.
That piece to anchor the wire to is an insulator. All service drops here in California require an insulator (or wireholder) of some shape or form, to attach the incoming line to a structure. Nowadays, we're starting to see less porcelain or other glassware being used for insulators, as polymers and nylon materials are being made for that purpose.
When running a long ground wire across the house, does it introduce an addition voltage drop across the cable due to line resistance? Seems it could create a different potential. I love watching your workmanship. Thank you for adding references.
Any conductor has resistance no matter how big or how far. The National Electrical Code has a chart for sizing the GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR and it is based upon the size of the service entrance conductors. NEC 250.66
Great job brother. I was an electrician for 8 years and then got into the outside lineman union on Long Island. FYI that loop is a preform on the neutral from the utility drop. If you cut back the tape on your hot legs they can be unwrapped a bit and you can u do one side of that preform. Start at the span side of it and get it started with a flathead screwdriver. Once started it’ll easily come undone. Only have to open the one side of that loop and you can pass it through the lollipop (porcelain point of attachment. Then re do it. Easy peasy. If the drop is too heavy uses a wrote tie a clove hits back a bit and tie the drop off to your pipe so you free up your hands. Great work brother be safe. Just subscribed
Very informative video, thanks. I do have a question, after the upgrade does the electric company have to run thicker wire to the mast to match the new wirw you just installed? I live in Ohio.
That's up to the utility company. The vast difference between utility wiring and customer wiring is that the utility wiring is mostly in "open air." The ampacity ratings are completely different than when the conductors are in a conduit.
Great video. I do have one question though. The wire you had to feed the generator outlet, do you need a conduit sleeve through the penetration of the house to connect it to the box? I will be subscribing, you were very informative, keep up the great work!
Hi Ron great job. A customer of mine needs a 200-amp service upgrade. The only available meter/disconnect combo was the one that had eight spaces for circuit breakers. I didn't want this I just simply wanted a combination meter/disconnect but they don't have that back ordered for a year "supposedly" My question is I need to install a 200-amp panel in their house can I tap off of this meter/disconnect 8 circuit panel combo to feed the indoor sub panel 200 amp? I'm just concerned about this 8-circuit space that I'm not even going to be using Outdoors Thanks
Yes essentially all of these meter main combos have feed thru lugs for an inside panel. I like them myself, nice if you decide to add ckts to a garage or hot tub etc later
Man.. you're a blessing to us common folk haha. Do you have to run an uninterrupted/unbroken line to the water meter or can you just jump it like you did the water heater then pick it back up on the other side of the houses cold water line (assuming unbroken copper throughout). Or maybe thats the point, to alleviate any unknown breaks in copper water continuity to where you might pick it up again.
Your not worried about getting zapped when stripping that service drop line from the utility with your metal razor knife? Just make sure your not touching anything grounded?
Ron, IF the water service is fed by plastic, can the water system be bonded to equipment to grounding bar, since it is not an electrode? I hear its not required? please explain
Hi Ron - Very informative video as usual. For wires that might be too short inside the main electrical panel, have you ever used the Wago Inline Splice Connector to extend the wires (not sure if they are NEC approved). I find that the regular wire nuts make the panel look very busy and not the best looking.
Yes, Wago's are an approved wiring method inside a panel. However, they're a bit more expensive than wire nuts so I only use them where wire nuts aren't practical.
@ that I understand but where my service comes to the house has a concrete slab patio and I need to add ground rods. But there is 2 window wells with dirt spaced about 10 feet apart can I install the rods in those window wells
Hi Ron, what do you think of micro air easy start for AC so to run them on generators? Do they do any damage to the ac unit? Or do they really do what they advertise?
another great video, I'm glad this one came up so I could see that, I never did one before, did you use a rubber pad on the roof to kneel and stand on..?
With all the services you do, you should think about getting a Milwaukee cordless H-crimper for the services. The mechanicals work but take longer. Crimper is So much easier and faster.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey understandable. They also have the cutter head that interchanges with it too. Anyways, nice install man! Can’t believe you do this all yourself. I always have a another guy with me, when doing a service like this. It’s a lot of work!! Hopefully the home owner knows to shut off that hot tub breaker, if they go to start and run that generator.
@@mcarroll598 I still have to label the panel here and I put a red label on the circuits that cannot be used with the port gen. Thanks for the inquiry.
Here in Michigan, we have a homeowners exemption where we can get approved to do our own electrical work. I have an associates degree in electrical engineering, so I have knowledge and experience with this kind of trade. My question is, where and what brand do you buy for the butt joint when connecting the utility back up. I also have 2 meters/service with 4 hot conductors and 2 grounded conductors that are spliced to the 3 cable utility cables. How and what connectors would you recommend. Thanks 👍
Hey Ron, great video! I found the PDF file reference with First Energy allowing Licensed Electricians to disconnect/Reconnect at the service drop. Is their a PDF file reference with PSEG allowing this?
Can you explain why porcelain bracket is used when ground is connected to meter and fuse box ? My house doesn’t have porcelain only metal bracket holding on to metal conduit.
So I’m getting a 200 amp upgrade I currently don’t have a ground to my waterline just one ground rod. When the electrician came to give the estimate he said he would only have to add another ground rod and not ground to the waterline. So I would imagine that the electrical code doesn’t differ between states or maybe it does. And the work is going to be inspected so if they do it wrong it will fail so the question is waterline ground or not?
Nope! We don’t even use an AHJ! New Jersey has adopted the Uniform Construction Code which allows them to amend certain sections of the NEC. We also have an entirely different sub code called the NJ Rehab code.
Is there a way to change just the meter box without having to disconnect the line in up by the mast? I need to upgrade my meter box but if it IS possible id really like to not have to cut or mess with the upper line in. Can/how could you disconnect the line in at the meter box safely and keep it from arcing whole you pull the box, change it to a new meter box, then reconnect it to the box?
Hey Ron I like your videos very informative. Could you not satisfy the code by using the rods only?Do you have to use the rods and the water line as part of your grounding system?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey A little history, our old house with 60 amp service only had a water line ground. I was looking at some older NEC books once and the article regarding grounding was rewritten to include the 2 8 foot ground rods in the mid 70's, I guess they determined the water pipe was insufficient. I was told many years ago that the water meter was not considered a reliable conductor, because the nuts on the connecting nipples have rubber washers and the new ones they are putting in are plastic. So the jumper was to maintain ground continuity. What I don't understand is why you only have to use a 6 AWG jumper. It seems common sense to me that if your putting in 200 amp service, you should have to put in a jumper that can handle a full 200 amp fault to ground.
@@bradrock7731 True, but in our town we have heavy type K copper laterals running 75 to 100 feet out to the water main in the street. The only break is the outside shutoff between the curb and sidewalk, and this connection is hard silver braised. So that is a huge amount of surface contact.
As long as the main breaker to that panel is sized down to a 200 or less. Otherwise you'd have to upgrade your meter (and probably the wires feeding it)
what's that orange wire for the generator? 6/3 romex? is that acceptable for an outside junction box? what if that junction box needed to be a few feet away and conduit was required - could normal romex still be used?
Can’t use NM cable in a wet location. The orange cable is specific cable for Generac generator wiring and is rated for outdoors and for direct burial. About $6 per foot.
A few years ago, i was called in by a buddy to help him rewire a brand new house from which all the wire had been cut and stolen by tweakers who broke in.
To steal less than $100 worth of copper scrap value, they did over $2000 in damage. We also had to cut above the service panel to re- feed the new romex into the box, because the bums didnt leave enough at the top of the wall to connect to. (And it wouldnt have been code anyway, as each circuit has to be a contiguous run)
I actually put ground jumpers across any shark bite valves as well. This is very informative - wow!!!
Very conscientious work that you do 👍🏻 the industry needs more like you . Thanks for the video
Thats very nice of you to say. Thank you!
Replaced a mast riser that had been bent by a truck hitting the service drop where they crossed the driveway. We were 100 feet from the pole which is about max around here. Tied the drop off to the chimney which wasn't in line with the pole so had another rope tied off to a car for a little sideways pull. Worked out fine. Had the keys for the car in my pocket LOL. Raised the mast higher and added guy wires to it.
I love how you put the main breaker at the bottom. I don’t see this enough. Too many guys run those giant 4/0 wires from bottom to top and waste all that gutter space just to make the main at the top, even when it throws side to side.
Stop hating. This is how it’s done in our area. We often don’t use meter mains and sometimes it’s a pain to and always it’s more expensive Would you cover the additional cost yourself if the client did not want to pay for a meter/main combo? Also, 2 ground rods are required even with a cold water ground (250.53 (a)(2)
) unless you get one ground rod certified 25 ohms or less. Too many young sparkies on the internet look to call out others’ work and mostly they’re uninformed. Great work Classic Electric!
I stand corrected that you didn’t know about the 25 ohms John Davies because I saw it in your other comment. Apologies. But for this same reason you still need 2 with the water ground. And the meter only with main breaker is how we all do it in jersey and PA
Thank you Sir you Rock. Keep up the Awesome work.
Form one Navy Veteran to Another.
Jason
Thank you both for your service!!!!!
Merry Christmas Electrician Ron… Sending regards from Las Vegas, NV.
Thank you! Raiders looking good today!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey ironically I'm a Jets fan! I used to live in Staten Island. 😂
@@DBR00 sweet. I was at the game yesterday.
hi,ron you did great job ,profesional!!!.casanova electric contractor miami
Awesome job on this project
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Impressive how you attached those two hot wires to the service mast without gloves. I imagine that the service drop wires were live, correct? I know that technically, you are OK as long as the hot wires don’t touch each other or the neutral, and as long as you are not grounded yourself.
Bird on a wire bud
He also kept his hands insulated the entire time. Only touching the jacket of the wire or the handle of the T allen
This is the most educational video of showing 200 AMP Mast Service Upgrade! Great work Ron! After you connect the new wire to utility wire, will utility company do anything? It seems you've done everything.
Around here we always disconnect/ reconnect ourselves unless it’s an underground service entrance.
Great video!!! Keep them coming!!
Another professional, clean install.
Thank you!
That piece to anchor the wire to is an insulator. All service drops here in California require an insulator (or wireholder) of some shape or form, to attach the incoming line to a structure. Nowadays, we're starting to see less porcelain or other glassware being used for insulators, as polymers and nylon materials are being made for that purpose.
I recently found your channel and became a subscriber. I love the content you post. Its very informative.
Keep posting more great content.
Thank you very much!
You are the best. Thank you for your awesome videos. San Diego, CA.
Thank you for your kind words. I love San Diego! I did Navy bootcamp there in 1990 before it got shutdown a few years later.
Another fine installation Ron.
Ron, thank you for another awesome video 💪🏼👍🏼
great video, thanks for sharing.
how come you dont hire a helper to give you a hand?
When running a long ground wire across the house, does it introduce an addition voltage drop across the cable due to line resistance? Seems it could create a different potential. I love watching your workmanship. Thank you for adding references.
Any conductor has resistance no matter how big or how far. The National Electrical Code has a chart for sizing the GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR and it is based upon the size of the service entrance conductors. NEC 250.66
@@electricianron_New_Jersey sorry for the dumb question.
@@MrKen59 There is no such thing as a dumb question...especially if you don't know or have been trained where to look...
@@electricianron_New_Jersey are those wires power the one you attached on the roof
Yes! This is correct.
Great video. I definitely learned a few things.
Love the videos man keep up the good work
Thank you very much. Great information and presentation.
Cool video Ron keep them videos coming back lol 😊 Like the work ! Another job well done❤
Thanks 👍
Great job brother. I was an electrician for 8 years and then got into the outside lineman union on Long Island. FYI that loop is a preform on the neutral from the utility drop. If you cut back the tape on your hot legs they can be unwrapped a bit and you can u do one side of that preform. Start at the span side of it and get it started with a flathead screwdriver. Once started it’ll easily come undone. Only have to open the one side of that loop and you can pass it through the lollipop (porcelain point of attachment. Then re do it. Easy peasy. If the drop is too heavy uses a wrote tie a clove hits back a bit and tie the drop off to your pipe so you free up your hands. Great work brother be safe. Just subscribed
good job as usual---thanks Jim... I wish you would wear safety glasses!
Very informative video, thanks. I do have a question, after the upgrade does the electric company have to run thicker wire to the mast to match the new wirw you just installed? I live in Ohio.
That's up to the utility company. The vast difference between utility wiring and customer wiring is that the utility wiring is mostly in "open air." The ampacity ratings are completely different than when the conductors are in a conduit.
So, in other words, “knob and tube” (in open air) has a different ampacity than Romex?
Good video brother 👍🏿
Great video. I do have one question though. The wire you had to feed the generator outlet, do you need a conduit sleeve through the penetration of the house to connect it to the box? I will be subscribing, you were very informative, keep up the great work!
Hi Ron great job. A customer of mine needs a 200-amp service upgrade. The only available meter/disconnect combo was the one that had eight spaces for circuit breakers. I didn't want this I just simply wanted a combination meter/disconnect but they don't have that back ordered for a year "supposedly" My question is I need to install a 200-amp panel in their house can I tap off of this meter/disconnect 8 circuit panel combo to feed the indoor sub panel 200 amp?
I'm just concerned about this 8-circuit space that I'm not even going to be using Outdoors
Thanks
Yes essentially all of these meter main combos have feed thru lugs for an inside panel. I like them myself, nice if you decide to add ckts to a garage or hot tub etc later
Man.. you're a blessing to us common folk haha. Do you have to run an uninterrupted/unbroken line to the water meter or can you just jump it like you did the water heater then pick it back up on the other side of the houses cold water line (assuming unbroken copper throughout). Or maybe thats the point, to alleviate any unknown breaks in copper water continuity to where you might pick it up again.
Direct line from the main disconnect. Jump it out at the meter and also hot to cold jumper at the water heater.
I’ve got some c crimp connectors great for irreversible splices on the GEC that work great in a pinch.
Your not worried about getting zapped when stripping that service drop line from the utility with your metal razor knife? Just make sure your not touching anything grounded?
Great vid. I'm just wondering if you're alowed to use insulated lugs for the service connection instead of rubber tape & electrical tape ?
The porcelain part on the riser is called the point of attachment
Ron, IF the water service is fed by plastic, can the water system be bonded to equipment to grounding bar, since it is not an electrode? I hear its not required? please explain
hi.ron.in florida some inspector requirement service disconect combo whith meter ,in case fire!!!!thank you
Maybe you’re on the NEC 2020 or the distribution panel is some place other than the closest point of entrance.
yes you right!!1
Hi Ron - Very informative video as usual. For wires that might be too short inside the main electrical panel, have you ever used the Wago Inline Splice Connector to extend the wires (not sure if they are NEC approved). I find that the regular wire nuts make the panel look very busy and not the best looking.
Yes, Wago's are an approved wiring method inside a panel. However, they're a bit more expensive than wire nuts so I only use them where wire nuts aren't practical.
Nice veto work bag I own the TP XXL and love it
Hi Fred, I have a video on the TP XXL! Check it out!
I have a question... can window wells with 6 feet of spacing between the 2 be used for the grounding rods?
@@720vending the rods are used to make a connection to the earth because the earth does not come with terminals.
@ that I understand but where my service comes to the house has a concrete slab patio and I need to add ground rods. But there is 2 window wells with dirt spaced about 10 feet apart can I install the rods in those window wells
Hi Ron, what do you think of micro air easy start for AC so to run them on generators? Do they do any damage to the ac unit? Or do they really do what they advertise?
another great video, I'm glad this one came up so I could see that, I never did one before, did you use a rubber pad on the roof to kneel and stand on..?
With all the services you do, you should think about getting a Milwaukee cordless H-crimper for the services. The mechanicals work but take longer. Crimper is So much easier and faster.
I have thought about it. For the amount of time I'd use it I just couldn't justify the cost.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey understandable. They also have the cutter head that interchanges with it too. Anyways, nice install man! Can’t believe you do this all yourself. I always have a another guy with me, when doing a service like this. It’s a lot of work!!
Hopefully the home owner knows to shut off that hot tub breaker, if they go to start and run that generator.
@@mcarroll598 I still have to label the panel here and I put a red label on the circuits that cannot be used with the port gen. Thanks for the inquiry.
Great job brother
What was the other water ground for? Thought the ground rods needed to be continuous from panel to media bond the to both ground rods.
Here in Michigan, we have a homeowners exemption where we can get approved to do our own electrical work. I have an associates degree in electrical engineering, so I have knowledge and experience with this kind of trade. My question is, where and what brand do you buy for the butt joint when connecting the utility back up. I also have 2 meters/service with 4 hot conductors and 2 grounded conductors that are spliced to the 3 cable utility cables. How and what connectors would you recommend. Thanks 👍
Why use the Noalox on the conductors entering the Main breaker?
Nice job interesting about generator wish I would have did. A hookup on one
I loved this video!❤
Love the videos. Can I come buy all your scrap? We are Monmouth county. I'll come pick it up where ever you want. We have portable scales.
I do my own scrapping and bring it John Blewitt’s in Howell.
great video!
Great detailed video 👍
Hi trying to figure out how to strap the mast to the house, I dont see that in this video
What type wire is used in the mast to the meter box?
very good work
Thank you! Cheers!
Question what kind of sealtite is it UL rated? weather resistant dose it have greenfield coted over with sealtite?
HI RON .THIS IS ABEL FROM MIAMI WHERE DID YOU BUY THAT PANEL??//IS SUPER USEFULL!!!
Good work
Thank you so much 😀
Hey Ron, great video! I found the PDF file reference with First Energy allowing Licensed Electricians to disconnect/Reconnect at the service drop. Is their a PDF file reference with PSEG allowing this?
I’m sure it’s on their website as well but I haven’t looked for it in quite awhile.
What do you do with all the pex now for your primary ground's is there enough room on the meter to clamp onto?
@@DavidKingmasterWV there’s no need to ground the pex because it’s a non-conductive material.
Nice work!
Great Video ....
Can you explain why porcelain bracket is used when ground is connected to meter and fuse box ? My house doesn’t have porcelain only metal bracket holding on to metal conduit.
Every utility is different may be an old service drop as well
Great info and work. Would it be a good idea to trace out and identify (label) all your branch circuits before connecting the lines to the breakers?
It's usually easier to do that after the power is on. That was you can turn on the lights and use a plug tester as well.
for all al wire should there be dielectrode grease used to prevent oxidation?
Dialectic grease? No. Noalox maybe, but any aluminum from AA-8,000 or newer is said to not corrode.
ta pesao el viejon! 🫡
So I’m getting a 200 amp upgrade I currently don’t have a ground to my waterline just one ground rod. When the electrician came to give the estimate he said he would only have to add another ground rod and not ground to the waterline. So I would imagine that the electrical code doesn’t differ between states or maybe it does. And the work is going to be inspected so if they do it wrong it will fail so the question is waterline ground or not?
Maybe you have PVC water main.
On the 2017 NEC that you are on in your AHJ, AFCI protection is not required when changing out a panel board?
Nope! We don’t even use an AHJ! New Jersey has adopted the Uniform Construction Code which allows them to amend certain sections of the NEC. We also have an entirely different sub code called the NJ Rehab code.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Awesome. Thanks, Ron. Love your channel. Keep up the great work to spread the love for the trades!
What happens if the front panel is removed, then interlock can then be bypassed.
Captain obvious.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey . Sir, I like your snark.
Awesome, thanks 👍🏻
Is there a way to change just the meter box without having to disconnect the line in up by the mast? I need to upgrade my meter box but if it IS possible id really like to not have to cut or mess with the upper line in. Can/how could you disconnect the line in at the meter box safely and keep it from arcing whole you pull the box, change it to a new meter box, then reconnect it to the box?
Yes, call the utility for a disconnect.
Hey Ron I like your videos very informative. Could you not satisfy the code by using the rods only?Do you have to use the rods and the water line as part of your grounding system?
Yes, the ground rods supplement that copper water main pipe to complete the grounding electrode system.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey A little history, our old house with 60 amp service only had a water line ground. I was looking at some older NEC books once and the article regarding grounding was rewritten to include the 2 8 foot ground rods in the mid 70's, I guess they determined the water pipe was insufficient.
I was told many years ago that the water meter was not considered a reliable conductor, because the nuts on the connecting nipples have rubber washers and the new ones they are putting in are plastic. So the jumper was to maintain ground continuity. What I don't understand is why you only have to use a 6 AWG jumper. It seems common sense to me that if your putting in 200 amp service, you should have to put in a jumper that can handle a full 200 amp fault to ground.
@@davidmarquardt9034 PVC not a great conductor.
@@bradrock7731 True, but in our town we have heavy type K copper laterals running 75 to 100 feet out to the water main in the street. The only break is the outside shutoff between the curb and sidewalk, and this connection is hard silver braised. So that is a huge amount of surface contact.
Hey Ron, at the end when your hooking up the service, was it live? If so, you don’t wear gloves?
100% live
What about disconnecting the neutral?
Is that a Nic/cut on the white feeder wire on 21:48. ?
There’s no nicks on any of the conductors. There’s a bonding bushing present to specifically prevent that from happening.
K, my mistake.
just a scrap? pushing back a bit of the white tape placed around the black cable to identify it as a neutral
Hello. How did you or how do you support the mast to the roof. Braced not guyed. Thank you.
There’s a minimum height where bracing is not required. Check with your utility company for specific requirements on support for a mast service.
Ron, Is there a max length for the ground wire?
No, but the less bends in the conductor the better.
That part is called a mast insulator. utility company ties the neutral conductor to it
Ron what makes a mast service required vs just a normal one?
The height of the service conductors.
Just curious, does the NEC allow to use a 225 amp main breaker panel with a 200 amp meter?
As long as the main breaker to that panel is sized down to a 200 or less. Otherwise you'd have to upgrade your meter (and probably the wires feeding it)
What type tool are you using for your ground rods
SDS Max by Milwaukee.
you test for an arc to make sure you're not grounded?
No.
Did you change that panel, meter, and riser by yourself in 1 day ?
Sure did! But I do the grounding usually ahead of the upgrade.
What type of wire is ran thru the mast, I know it's 4/0 aluminum. But what type
@johndavies2949 99% off the houses in the territories I've worked ar aluminum. All the over head services and 99% urd are aluminum
What tool are you using to drive the ground rods?
M18 SDS Plus w/ ground rod driver attachment.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey that's what I use as well...what a great tool for that too...
Just wondering in your jurisdiction is it code to where you have to use rigid conduit or can you schedule 80 PVC electrical conduit
Normally, it's up to the utility company. If my mast were any taller than in the video the rigid conduit would have to be 2 1/2"
PVC, even SCH 80 is not load bearing-it couldn’t be used for a mast like this.
How long this job take you sir
2 days labor by myself. First day grounding, seconds day service equipment.
We're is the 400 amp meter base?
At the supply house I imagine.
I actually thought they were hot, but it truns out the company pull the fuse on the transformer.
False.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey 😅 lol company puts on 10kv gloves just to replace a meter...
you should use crimp lugs
Why is that?
Ik I’m a year late but did we all see the wasp nest come out of the pipe😂
I use my teeth to start my 33+ tape just as you do😂
I hope my dentist doesn't follow this channel LOL!
what happens when the city upgrades the water service to plastic and the customer doesnt realize that its bonded?
It’ll no longer be considered an electrode. This is why we drive supplemental ground rods.
His connections will still protect personnel in the case where the Copper pipe gets energized, the breaker will clear the fault.
if you think it will take 4 hrs tell your customer 6 and no matter what be done by 6 hrs
🤘🍿🍷👍👍👍👍
200 amp, needed for EV charging overnight.
Panel is mounted upside down
Ok, I'll go back and flip it.
Guy clamp.
what's that orange wire for the generator? 6/3 romex? is that acceptable for an outside junction box? what if that junction box needed to be a few feet away and conduit was required - could normal romex still be used?
Can’t use NM cable in a wet location. The orange cable is specific cable for Generac generator wiring and is rated for outdoors and for direct burial. About $6 per foot.
awesome thank you. I'm piecing together the materials to tackle all of this@@electricianron_New_Jersey
would that be a UF-B variety?@@electricianron_New_Jersey