Of these I wish I knew when starting out the arrow thing, I was using similar arrows in spine and weight, but they were different each time in that one set was skinnier then the other that was wood, and another was Fiberglass. Also do not assume if you have a few same weight bows or very similar weight bows with in 1--2 pounds from each other that they will be using the same arrows sure you can try the arrows you have as a cheap reference to see if they will work with the bow but not always is this the case that the arrows will work.
@@kramerammonsarchery This was after my friend's dad had got these bows from an estate sale that were adult bows and beginner bows in 1998 the arrows were all off despite being the same made for the same spine. The kids 10--17/18 pound bows the arrows worked fine as you could not be more then 20 feet from the target to have arrows work for those bows. The father got arrows in 1000 spine 3.5--4 mm that were misake print and actually 850--900 spine arrow in full 34 spine that the father cut down to 30 inches and put a tip of a Brad Nail for the tip and early Mr. Fixall in a 17HMR shape only bigger using the Gram equivalent of 100 grains for the arrows.
@@CADCoinHunters Yes because some bows non compound/or the lever bows need a heavier arrow of the same spine or a lighter arrow of the same spine. Take my all fiberglass made exactly same 1961 to end of 1979 Actionbow by Actionrod 8200 Longbow and my OEELINE Aerobow One Piece 54 inch Recurve (that is name on USA/Canadian Amazon), they take the same spine arrow as I draw them to about the same draw but I had to get some in same spine that used a real feathers for the old recurve as the shelf was a flatter curve to it that I would have fixed myself to look like my recurve at the least had the riser been made of wood and not fiberglass.
As a martial artist i love thst you address form not really mattering. This seems to be something people finally get when they become proficient in a physical art. Everyone’s physique is different and they will move differently as a result. Different weaknesses and different stengths.
If you are losing arrows move closer to your target. Someday you will be shooting at longer distances, but you will get a lot more practice in if you are shooting instead of hunting for arrows. If you consistently only use the middle 1/4th of the target, move back a step or two.
6:10 this is great advice. Clear minded advice. We forget that men have been using bows and arrows for a loong time and none of the modern "techniques" nor equipment was around back then and they were and are extremely efficient when hunting and are very accurate.
Great advice!! Even if you're seasoned, it's good to be reminded of these little things. I stopped bow hunting in 2005. I started back in 2022. It was tough, because after 2 shoulder surgeries and 1 hand surgery, the form I was once comfortable with, was no longer comfortable to me. It was like starting from scratch. Now what may look awkward is my most consistent form. Harvested a 10pt this year. Everything you talked about, I had to implement. Shooting at smaller circles inside the circle, consistent draw and release point. Even body posture. Thanks for sharing!! I'm going to let my daughter watch this so she can see, it's not just me saying these little gems. LOL
A little tip for getting more consistent at aiming, take a paper cup and pin it to your target, back off to 5 yards, and take 3-5 shots at a time until you can place all 3-5 arrows in the cup... Back off another 5 yards and do the same thing, rinse, lather and repeat
I'm glad you said this about consistency. I weighed my arrows and stopped shooting the outliers. I also didn't worry about the "perfect" release, just a consistent release. It tightened up my groups a lot. Thanks!
I am long in the tooth and no longer shoot my bows but I still like to read and look at videos of other archers. You mentioned more in such a short time that touched on important things to do to get accurate with a bow. I must be a slow learner as I shot 55 and 60 LB bows when I should have dropped down in weight to shoot tournaments. I would have done even better than I did . I wasn't a bad shooter but I never thought I was as good as I could be even though I won many tournaments . I won every kind of tournaments from club shoots to a state championship .It was the only state shoot I partisipated in. People that want to be a good shooter should heed your advice. Consistency is the answer as you eluded to .I no longer shoot my bows . I can't even pull them to full draw anymore. I look at my recurves and long bows and drift off to yesteryears when I was in my prime. You are a rare commodity that being you know what you are talking about. Thanks for the video!
@@flyingkatya I am in my eighties , have Leukemia and respiratory problems. I am fortunate to have had the time of my life with a bow. You enjoy your hobby, I did but now I am forced to put it to rest. Thanks for the videos ! I see a lot of me in you!
Starting over with bow hunting after hard fall outta tree. Been over 4 years I can finally pull a recurve back. Gonna harvest a whitetail with it, been visualizing this for years oh yeah and I hunt from the ground now seldom do I get elevated. Thanks for the help
One thing that I've found (and this is just my personal view) that helps me shoot better at shorter distances (below 30 meters, which are realistic hunting distances) is to sometimes just shoot longer distances without too much worrying. Up to a 100 meters is fun and once you start grouping below 10 centimeter groups, you're relaxed enough. After long distance shooting sessions shorter distances feel much more "trivial". I shoot mainly compound bows by the way.
OK so I'm new to archery about 8 months in and my shooting from 20 yards out I've been all over the place. I watched this video and instantly was grouping. Thanks man.
The shout out to Jake kaminsky and Tom clum made me lol. It’s true! Those guys are great, but you are also correct about consistency even if it’s bad form can bring pretty good accuracy. Great form with consistency is key to be very good, but for most it’s just about having fun.
I know I’m late to the party but thank you, thank you, thank you, I’ve had unnecessary arguments with people about my form as they say it’s wrong, I’ve had two shoulder and two elbow operations from a major car accident and as a result my right arm doesn’t move the same as it once did so my ‘form’ is a little weird but I can still shoot well and I can still out shoot some of those naysayers who spew their ‘my forms the correct way to shoot’ spiel. So yes in regard to form the whole ‘whatever works for you’ rings so many bells.
As a barista of 20 yaers having trained hundreds in the skill I agree completely. Better to be consistently bad than sometimes good sometimes bad. Plus if you are more consistent with doing a wierd step in technique, go with it. Gratitude for your ongoing teachings, havend made the jump to stick how yet, but know I must for when the depths of Armageddon hit, and my Matthews z7, and it's backup sister z7, are busy, carbon shafts all spent, release aid dies..... I'm screwed. New archery skill to be learned soon, look forwards to your help. And Claye Hayes ❤ keep your pecker hard and your broadheads sharp, world setting spicy now...🎉
Thank you for this! I’ve only ever shot when supervising at summer camps! I was decent (ie actually hit the circle target 😅) but then went to a different range and BOMBED! Like hit the circle in the lane next to me bad and had NO IDEA what I did wrong. Now I can blame all the equipment things I didn’t even know existed! 😂 Excited to try again soon!
So true! I am cursed with cross dominance, I shoot right handed but my left eye is dominant. Every archery coach has told me I have 2 options: start over with a 15lb bow and relearn everything shooting lefthanded and gradually increase poundage, or shoot with an eye patch covering my left eye to retrain my brain to favor the right eye out of necessity. . . I said to hell with both and shoot my way because it's most comfortable for me. I cant my bow 45°to the right, anchor at the tip of my chin rather then the corner of my mouth and cock my head to the right so that my left eye is inline with and sighting straight down my arrow shaft and focusing on the target. I don't like closing an eye to shoot, I keep em both open. The ONLY two negatives of my way of shooting are 1. Increased chance of string slap, I gotta have a comfy thick forearm bracer. 2. It doesn't work with thumb release or Slavic release due to the 45° cant.
That's more or less the way I shoot, and I don't have cross dominance. It feels more natural and it's easier to shoot in wooded areas as a bonus. I use a two finger Mediterranean release and curl my index finger slightly over the nock to force the arrow to rest on my hand, and it'll stay there even if I turn the bow upside down. Primary release is possible with lighter bows. Never once had a problem with string slap in any capacity though.
When I shot a bow first time I learned to hold the arrow instead of the string and aimed through the arrow and that was pretty consistent for me, but when I later got to shoot a bow someone told me I am doing everything wrong and then I tried aiming with my fingers on the string but that was pretty inconsistent for me. Now I bought my first own 99€ wolfman traditional bow (horseback composite sophora/resin) with 30lb arriving tomorrow, hope that bow is ok and I will find the right shooting technique for me. ^^
3:16 i understand what you meant but would rather frame it: consistency is greatness. dont train for great form, train for consistent form, and become great.
This Channel is great, even the comments are so helpful. At the moment im comfortable at about 10ft away, im getting constant....ish grouping. Im a learner and have alot too learn, but im not rushing, im taking my time and just injoying a hobbie i did when i was a kid, im 52 now and you cant take back time, at first i was messing around with sling shots, very fun also. But archery for me is amazing, and the history of it to is amazing, each country has their own "way" of doing things, none is write or wrong, i think you have to find YOURE way. I also play guitar so i know consistency in practicing is key. Im also happy i didnt go over a 40lb bow, because for me that is perfect for my strengths, i think if i went any higher 1, i wouldn't be as consistence thus not injoying it, 2, and most important it wouldn't be safe. My bow is a cheap but reliable bow, i looked at many reviews on amazon and youtube too choose the bow i have. Im also not rushing out to get another yet, well i lie, i might get another next payday 😂..i live in uk, and from ive seen you make amazing bows, do you sell to over sea? Because one day would love to own a bow from you guy's..thankyou. ps my name is Paul, i read the thing on youre channel lol. Have a great day..
One of the best reasons for going with a lower weight bow is that you can get a lot more shots in per session, simply because you're not worn out. Overdoing things is a big problem when training for any shooting sport, whether it's archery or firearms or slingshots...it doesn't matter. When you're tired and having trouble doing what was once easy, you're less consistent, and you end up making bad habits and killing your own confidence. You're not strength training or building muscle, you're refining a technique. More practice is great, but overdoing it is more detrimental than had you not even trained that day. A lighter bow gives you more time in a session to figure out your technique than a heavier bow would. Get good with a lighter bow, practice your form and release and consistency, and once you're satisfied, then you can move on to heavier bows because you're only having to get used to more draw weight and a different trajectory rather than learning everything from scratch. I started off with a 32# and trained with it for several years, then picked up a 43# and it only took a few days to get just as good with it. Now I'm able to pick up an 85# recurve and be just as consistent, even though that's approaching my max usable draw weight.
My approach was almost the opposite. I chose to hold off on learning to aim for as long as possible. I just focused on developing great technique and didn't worry about how long it would take to start shooting accurately.
Another tip is to take tape and tape on your target one strip horizontally then shoot. You will notice your left and right results in comparison to what your minds eye sees. Then repeat in vertical aspects. Lonewolf Custom Bows.
I have a question about your finger placement, which I have never seen before, you put all three fingers below the anchored arrow. I was taught at indoor range to have one finger on top of the noch and two fingers below. Please tell me how you are doing what you do. Thanks.
That technique is called "3 under" and you can find many youtube videos on how to shoot that way. Kramer, my Shatterproof RD Bones longbow and me are best buddies and ready for whitetail archery season to open. Thank you for a great bow!! God bless.
I was taught to 'kiss the bow string' so that it touched the centre of my lips and nose. This way it's always at a consistent draw length and never to the left or right so that the string always travels straight
Well spoken absolutely the best explained way on saying it how it should of been said also funny on some of the explained parts you said about your form if it makes you a better shooter then stay with it spot on I'm just starting to learn recurve which is going to be a challenge especially after using a compound for years I still do but I like to be challenged so I'm going for it. Thank you I'm saving this vid in my recurve tutorials.
Great summery. I often showed this video to a friend who started out archery. But the point of equipments aside from poundage is a bit advanced and nearly impossible to understand if you only start shooting archery. For example, arrow tuning needs you to have fairly consistent form first otherwise you cannot tune the arrow except choosing a spine for your poundage. Regardless, I think key takeaway here is consistency and this video is great to emphasise it.
Archers ! At 42 seconds into this post notice this instructors perfect shot sequence and form. Take note of how he lines up his draw arm elbow with the point of his arrow . Notice the release is straight back with no plucking left or right. ! This post is outstanding! Enjoy! 🏹
if your practicing aiming another great way is to focus on the grouping method doesn't matter where you aim as long as you aim at the same target until you learn how your arrows group if they are wide an untamed it means your not consistent on either the way your moving or the way your aiming, once you start getting a nice tight group you can start practicing aiming for the middle target but adjusting where your current aim to where the grouping is by making very small adjustments
Thanks for the bow string, looks great and fast delivery! will be ordering more, can I do a custom colors? My daughter is going to want Oregon ducks colors.
Hi Kramer. I was told by older, experienced archers at my club that I shouldn't "look down my arrow" as I would end up with a sore neck by the end of the day. I subsequently spent the next few sessions trying to keep my head straighter, which affected my aim. My question is, should i revert back to how I felt comfortable on my first session, or continue trying to keep my head straight and get used to aiming from there? Cheers from Australia 🍻
I’m 67 and just started this sport. Wish I would have started sooner , but I’m left eye dominant shooting right handed because who knows, horribly right handed. So I think about shooting like throwing darts or a baseball. Your thoughts?
As you're talking about braceheight: how do you find out the perfect braceheight for your bow, when you're a mediocre archer? So far, the "best" results I got was to use the upper end of the recommended setting. But I figure there should be a better method - question just is: can I do it when I'm not an awesome shot?^^
Absolutely you can. For brace height as long as you are in the recommended range for that bow, The main goal is that it would be the same every time you shoot. If the bow feels like it is shooting good to you. Measure it there and keep it there. hope this helps!
All good advice. With practice, can get good enough to only shoot 1 arrow at one bullseye. If you shoot at the same bullseye with multiple arrows, you will start ruining a lot of arrows.
Hey here’s a question I work with cub scouts a lot a my kids go to the range shoot and get discouraged because there isn’t much repetitive training. They don’t get a chance to get good because we’re on a time limit.
Awesome. When all else fails,do what works. Can we get a primitive build next...ish? Been learning the does and don'ts of tillering with a double bit ax and a Mora and bout to give up and go get a saw and a chalk line😂. Almost had one done this morning ( even had a string with 3/4 draw and an even bend on an elliptical tiller) then heard a tick while exercising the last tiller. Found where it was coming from and decided it was a faint run off in the grain and a tooling mark on the side of the limb had caused the break. The limb still took far beyond the intended draw to break, but I would rather test the blank than continue just to have it fail anyway. The Dwarf Maple I am using seems tough enough, but I am hunting for some siberian elm for my next try. Thanks for all the info Man you rock.
Thanks so much! I would lobe to do some primitive builds soon! I have a few other videos in the works and scheduled first But I will get there soon! Great job on the bow making that sounds so fun!
I just found a longbow at an estate sale and bought a few light arrows and a straw bale to shoot at. It’s pretty fun, but the string keeps hitting my hand that holds the bow. The bow says 68 but the store only had 69 string. Is that why it’s hitting my left hand?
Ok I have a question I'm 60 years old I shot as a your man middle school age would like to get back into it but my body is not strong at all due to life can you advise what I should do as a young man I was lefthand left eye dominant but here's the kicker I shot right handed so let's say i new all over thanks for sharing
I LOVE bowhunting in an almost spiritual way, but after 30 years I've finally accepted I'll never be good enough to hunt without a mechanical release, and I would NEVER stoop to using one. (I have an undiagnosed and weird neurological condition). I was a really good shot when I was 18.
Hey Cramer, my name is Chad. I'm from Northern California I was wondering how much it would be to have a recurve bow with the same setup as a compound bow
I have been shooting compound for a few years and want to try traditional archery. This video was the first to pop up and it led me to your bow reviews. I was going to get the Black Hunter but have a question. Can I use one of those stick on arrow rests instead of shooting off the shelf? With the change in arrow position mess up the set up or tunning? Great videos, they are helping out a lot!!!!!
great video and advice... what is your draw legnth and what was the length, spine of the arrow and the grain of the field point that you were shooting in this video?
@@kramerammonsarchery thanks for the reply. I have a 38 lb RD Bones and also have a 29 inch draw and ordered 400 spine with 100 gn field point 33" arrow. just wanted to make sure I was in the right ballpark since i can't find the email from Kazden and ordered them off of memory.
I recently dusted off my 30 year old bow and I'm having fun shooting wildly in the general direction of my new wall of hay bales. My arrow rest is made of a slice of plastic water bottle and some Gorilla tape. My form is poor, my eyesight is failing, my arrows were what they had at the store. My target is drawn with marker, a human size guy named Norman. I still get a head shot about 1 in 10 from 100 feet. Next paycheck I'm investing in a real arrow rest, hopefully bump that up to 1 in 5. No Normans will invade MY yard!
For the arrows, all mine are the same spine rating(I'm new to archery forgive the lack of knowledge please) and I use the same exact bullet tip heads. However, the arrows are made of two different materials, some are carbon fiber, some are metal. Does material have an effect on accuracy? Also, my bow is a 45 lbs Kodiak recurve bow, is that considered a decent brand for beginners? Or at all? Anybody with knowledge, tips, etc is more than welcome to reply.
1) Form is not the most important thing. People use it as an all purpose explanation. Anyone has a problem, the answer is "you need to work on your form". And this is from Keyboard Coaches who have never seen the guy shoot. And for most shooters that may be right but quantify for me by how much. If I am shooting 90 meters maybe a big difference, but at twelve, if you have a reasonably square T form, a no torque grip, that should work. That said, if one were doing crazy stuff, like throwing one's arm back over one's head, that's not only going to have deer jump the string, but it is unlikely that whatever one feels is consistent about that is going to last. 2) Light vs. heavy arrows is less an issue than correct spine. And that gets tough if you have a bunch of different bows, because that can be a significant investment in arrows. 3) For people that are reasonably squared away and still have big problems posting strong scores, normally, and this is based on tons of clinics, they are overbowed. Your "cut your draw weight in half" is probably a good starting point. The real problem isn't so much being overbowed, it is the fact people generally can't tell. And they refuse to believe it. If I could start serious archery all over again, from over 40 years ago. I wouldn't buy custom bows, I would get a decent riser, and all the limbs. ILF limbs are really cheap if you pick them up second hand or from sales. I like to have slightly more money in my main user limbs. But when I learned to hit reliably, I stopped caring about how fancy my gear was. I have 5 pound increments up to 80 pounds. Because I had kids along the way, and back in the day, everyone shot much heavier bows. With a few riser lengths, and half a dozen limbs you can cover a lot of weights. But if you were just doing it for the average adult you would need a too light pair, a too heavy pair, and a middling pair. I would think that 30-40-50 would cover it for many. It is harder for small archers who need to hit 40# where there are regulations, because your heavy pair is probably what you would hunt with. And that means you could be maxed out. The nice thing about hunting off the middle weight is that you have one set to build strength with, and to be aware of when you actually go off the cliff for excess weight. And you have a light pair for beginning, fun shooting, or injuries.
Just to correct one of your points, If you are planning to hunt go ahead and practice with arrows the same weight you will hunt with, do not use lighter arrows to practice. Changing weight before you hunt means relearning the way the arrows fly. If you want to get good enough to hunt, consistency is key. Isnt that supposed to be the point of the video?
The arrow has to be in the deepest point of the string when pulling. Or the string Will flex when releases letting the arrow jumping. This happens when you have all 3 fingers UNDER the arrow. You need to pull the arrow and string right. You need to have a finger OVER the arrow, in thet Way tour arrow is on the deepest point of the string. Getting all the power in the reales. And thats the whole point when realesing.
Of these I wish I knew when starting out the arrow thing, I was using similar arrows in spine and weight, but they were different each time in that one set was skinnier then the other that was wood, and another was Fiberglass. Also do not assume if you have a few same weight bows or very similar weight bows with in 1--2 pounds from each other that they will be using the same arrows sure you can try the arrows you have as a cheap reference to see if they will work with the bow but not always is this the case that the arrows will work.
I totally agree! great points and wise words!
@@kramerammonsarchery This was after my friend's dad had got these bows from an estate sale that were adult bows and beginner bows in 1998 the arrows were all off despite being the same made for the same spine. The kids 10--17/18 pound bows the arrows worked fine as you could not be more then 20 feet from the target to have arrows work for those bows. The father got arrows in 1000 spine 3.5--4 mm that were misake print and actually 850--900 spine arrow in full 34 spine that the father cut down to 30 inches and put a tip of a Brad Nail for the tip and early Mr. Fixall in a 17HMR shape only bigger using the Gram equivalent of 100 grains for the arrows.
I'm starting. I'm using this now lol.
@@CADCoinHunters Yes because some bows non compound/or the lever bows need a heavier arrow of the same spine or a lighter arrow of the same spine. Take my all fiberglass made exactly same 1961 to end of 1979 Actionbow by Actionrod 8200 Longbow and my OEELINE Aerobow One Piece 54 inch Recurve (that is name on USA/Canadian Amazon), they take the same spine arrow as I draw them to about the same draw but I had to get some in same spine that used a real feathers for the old recurve as the shelf was a flatter curve to it that I would have fixed myself to look like my recurve at the least had the riser been made of wood and not fiberglass.
@@caseysmith544 ok! That makes sense. Thank you for the info! It is much appreciated!
No annoying background music. Good video. Thanks.
Biggest thing with archery, just have fun. That's what matters in the end.
To be fair, being good is really fun.
OMG. I can't believe it. A knowledgeable archery instructor who doesn't spend
30 minutes bs- ing about
Whatever. Thank you.
As a martial artist i love thst you address form not really mattering. This seems to be something people finally get when they become proficient in a physical art. Everyone’s physique is different and they will move differently as a result. Different weaknesses and different stengths.
I do archery since 1985 and "bravo", your teaching here is real. 100% right.
If you are losing arrows move closer to your target. Someday you will be shooting at longer distances, but you will get a lot more practice in if you are shooting instead of hunting for arrows. If you consistently only use the middle 1/4th of the target, move back a step or two.
And having to replace fletches all the time due to missing will make a person want to not miss that much more.
Yeaaaaa this is good advise 👏
Good tip.
That sir is excellent advice!!
I have never in my life seen better advice on this subject.
6:10 this is great advice. Clear minded advice. We forget that men have been using bows and arrows for a loong time and none of the modern "techniques" nor equipment was around back then and they were and are extremely efficient when hunting and are very accurate.
Great advice!! Even if you're seasoned, it's good to be reminded of these little things. I stopped bow hunting in 2005. I started back in 2022. It was tough, because after 2 shoulder surgeries and 1 hand surgery, the form I was once comfortable with, was no longer comfortable to me. It was like starting from scratch. Now what may look awkward is my most consistent form. Harvested a 10pt this year. Everything you talked about, I had to implement. Shooting at smaller circles inside the circle, consistent draw and release point. Even body posture. Thanks for sharing!! I'm going to let my daughter watch this so she can see, it's not just me saying these little gems. LOL
I figured all that out over 15 years ago. Best lecture/demonstration I ever saw and heard. Shoot Three Fingers Under!
A little tip for getting more consistent at aiming, take a paper cup and pin it to your target, back off to 5 yards, and take 3-5 shots at a time until you can place all 3-5 arrows in the cup... Back off another 5 yards and do the same thing, rinse, lather and repeat
I'm glad you said this about consistency. I weighed my arrows and stopped shooting the outliers. I also didn't worry about the "perfect" release, just a consistent release. It tightened up my groups a lot. Thanks!
I am long in the tooth and no longer shoot my bows but I still like to read and look at videos of other archers. You mentioned more in such a short time that touched on important things to do to get accurate with a bow. I must be a slow learner as I shot 55 and 60 LB bows when I should have dropped down in weight to shoot tournaments. I would have done even better than I did . I wasn't a bad shooter but I never thought I was as good as I could be even though I won many tournaments . I won every kind of tournaments from club shoots to a state championship .It was the only state shoot I partisipated in. People that want to be a good shooter should heed your advice. Consistency is the answer as you eluded to .I no longer shoot my bows . I can't even pull them to full draw anymore. I look at my recurves and long bows and drift off to yesteryears when I was in my prime. You are a rare commodity that being you know what you are talking about. Thanks for the video!
Nooooo don't give up shooting! Unless it's a health issue?
@@flyingkatya I am in my eighties , have Leukemia and respiratory problems. I am fortunate to have had the time of my life with a bow. You enjoy your hobby, I did but now I am forced to put it to rest. Thanks for the videos ! I see a lot of me in you!
Starting over with bow hunting after hard fall outta tree. Been over 4 years I can finally pull a recurve back. Gonna harvest a whitetail with it, been visualizing this for years oh yeah and I hunt from the ground now seldom do I get elevated. Thanks for the help
I love the total lack of gatekeeping on this channel.
Thanks for that, Kramer. Love your channel.
One thing that I've found (and this is just my personal view) that helps me shoot better at shorter distances (below 30 meters, which are realistic hunting distances) is to sometimes just shoot longer distances without too much worrying. Up to a 100 meters is fun and once you start grouping below 10 centimeter groups, you're relaxed enough. After long distance shooting sessions shorter distances feel much more "trivial".
I shoot mainly compound bows by the way.
OK so I'm new to archery about 8 months in and my shooting from 20 yards out I've been all over the place. I watched this video and instantly was grouping. Thanks man.
You covered more topucs in less time than most. Plus your information was easy to understand. Excellent video!
Great, no nonsense fast moving. Thank you.
The shout out to Jake kaminsky and Tom clum made me lol. It’s true! Those guys are great, but you are also correct about consistency even if it’s bad form can bring pretty good accuracy. Great form with consistency is key to be very good, but for most it’s just about having fun.
I finally figured why I can't hit a target with an arrow. . . I don't have a bow. :P
Save you a few months, you also need an arrow.😉
Thank you, such a logical lesson
Love your videos brother!!!! I need to get me a low poundage bow to practice.... Great VIDEO!!!!!
Great message, Thanks
I know I’m late to the party but thank you, thank you, thank you, I’ve had unnecessary arguments with people about my form as they say it’s wrong, I’ve had two shoulder and two elbow operations from a major car accident and as a result my right arm doesn’t move the same as it once did so my ‘form’ is a little weird but I can still shoot well and I can still out shoot some of those naysayers who spew their ‘my forms the correct way to shoot’ spiel. So yes in regard to form the whole ‘whatever works for you’ rings so many bells.
I use a 1 inch post note for my target :) they come in bright colors and makes it easier to eye lock on .
Thanks for the great tips. I come from Thailand where there are very few archery people, so it's hard to find teaching clips. ❤❤❤
omg the last line, I'm losing it XD Great vid, great tips! Excited to put these into practice next time.
As a barista of 20 yaers having trained hundreds in the skill I agree completely. Better to be consistently bad than sometimes good sometimes bad. Plus if you are more consistent with doing a wierd step in technique, go with it. Gratitude for your ongoing teachings, havend made the jump to stick how yet, but know I must for when the depths of Armageddon hit, and my Matthews z7, and it's backup sister z7, are busy, carbon shafts all spent, release aid dies..... I'm screwed. New archery skill to be learned soon, look forwards to your help. And Claye Hayes ❤ keep your pecker hard and your broadheads sharp, world setting spicy now...🎉
"Be consistent" is exactly what I tell people when firing a rifle also. I need to pull out my bow and dedicate some time everyday to practice.
Thank you for this! I’ve only ever shot when supervising at summer camps! I was decent (ie actually hit the circle target 😅) but then went to a different range and BOMBED! Like hit the circle in the lane next to me bad and had NO IDEA what I did wrong. Now I can blame all the equipment things I didn’t even know existed! 😂 Excited to try again soon!
Very humble. I like you
I am going to a provincial tournament and I'm gonna use these tips thank you so much! 😀
Makes sense. Time to practice.
So true! I am cursed with cross dominance, I shoot right handed but my left eye is dominant. Every archery coach has told me I have 2 options: start over with a 15lb bow and relearn everything shooting lefthanded and gradually increase poundage, or shoot with an eye patch covering my left eye to retrain my brain to favor the right eye out of necessity. . . I said to hell with both and shoot my way because it's most comfortable for me. I cant my bow 45°to the right, anchor at the tip of my chin rather then the corner of my mouth and cock my head to the right so that my left eye is inline with and sighting straight down my arrow shaft and focusing on the target. I don't like closing an eye to shoot, I keep em both open. The ONLY two negatives of my way of shooting are 1. Increased chance of string slap, I gotta have a comfy thick forearm bracer. 2. It doesn't work with thumb release or Slavic release due to the 45° cant.
That's more or less the way I shoot, and I don't have cross dominance. It feels more natural and it's easier to shoot in wooded areas as a bonus. I use a two finger Mediterranean release and curl my index finger slightly over the nock to force the arrow to rest on my hand, and it'll stay there even if I turn the bow upside down. Primary release is possible with lighter bows. Never once had a problem with string slap in any capacity though.
Thanks for the video, I'll try to apply the information in it
When I shot a bow first time I learned to hold the arrow instead of the string and aimed through the arrow and that was pretty consistent for me, but when I later got to shoot a bow someone told me I am doing everything wrong and then I tried aiming with my fingers on the string but that was pretty inconsistent for me. Now I bought my first own 99€ wolfman traditional bow (horseback composite sophora/resin) with 30lb arriving tomorrow, hope that bow is ok and I will find the right shooting technique for me. ^^
Whats the update about it? How good is it?
@@Vcee444 I am holding it on the string now, because holding on the arrow is only feasible for low draw weights.
3:16 i understand what you meant but would rather frame it: consistency is greatness. dont train for great form, train for consistent form, and become great.
This Channel is great, even the comments are so helpful. At the moment im comfortable at about 10ft away, im getting constant....ish grouping. Im a learner and have alot too learn, but im not rushing, im taking my time and just injoying a hobbie i did when i was a kid, im 52 now and you cant take back time, at first i was messing around with sling shots, very fun also. But archery for me is amazing, and the history of it to is amazing, each country has their own "way" of doing things, none is write or wrong, i think you have to find YOURE way. I also play guitar so i know consistency in practicing is key. Im also happy i didnt go over a 40lb bow, because for me that is perfect for my strengths, i think if i went any higher 1, i wouldn't be as consistence thus not injoying it, 2, and most important it wouldn't be safe. My bow is a cheap but reliable bow, i looked at many reviews on amazon and youtube too choose the bow i have. Im also not rushing out to get another yet, well i lie, i might get another next payday 😂..i live in uk, and from ive seen you make amazing bows, do you sell to over sea? Because one day would love to own a bow from you guy's..thankyou. ps my name is Paul, i read the thing on youre channel lol. Have a great day..
One of the best reasons for going with a lower weight bow is that you can get a lot more shots in per session, simply because you're not worn out. Overdoing things is a big problem when training for any shooting sport, whether it's archery or firearms or slingshots...it doesn't matter. When you're tired and having trouble doing what was once easy, you're less consistent, and you end up making bad habits and killing your own confidence. You're not strength training or building muscle, you're refining a technique. More practice is great, but overdoing it is more detrimental than had you not even trained that day. A lighter bow gives you more time in a session to figure out your technique than a heavier bow would. Get good with a lighter bow, practice your form and release and consistency, and once you're satisfied, then you can move on to heavier bows because you're only having to get used to more draw weight and a different trajectory rather than learning everything from scratch. I started off with a 32# and trained with it for several years, then picked up a 43# and it only took a few days to get just as good with it. Now I'm able to pick up an 85# recurve and be just as consistent, even though that's approaching my max usable draw weight.
My approach was almost the opposite. I chose to hold off on learning to aim for as long as possible. I just focused on developing great technique and didn't worry about how long it would take to start shooting accurately.
Good advice 💯
Great advice. Consistency first, then worry about accuracy.
You have my Complete Attention. Thank You
This is actually a very good video full of really good advice! Thx!
Brilliant 🤩 Thanks 🏴
thanks for all the great videos. always super informative.
Another tip is to take tape and tape on your target one strip horizontally then shoot. You will notice your left and right results in comparison to what your minds eye sees. Then repeat in vertical aspects. Lonewolf Custom Bows.
John Green vibes in the best way possible
Thank you great video!!
You the man!
Yes Thank You ❤😊
I have a question about your finger placement, which I have never seen before, you put all three fingers below the anchored arrow. I was taught at indoor range to have one finger on top of the noch and two fingers below. Please tell me how you are doing what you do. Thanks.
That technique is called "3 under" and you can find many youtube videos on how to shoot that way. Kramer, my Shatterproof RD Bones longbow and me are best buddies and ready for whitetail archery season to open. Thank you for a great bow!! God bless.
I was taught to 'kiss the bow string' so that it touched the centre of my lips and nose. This way it's always at a consistent draw length and never to the left or right so that the string always travels straight
Well spoken absolutely the best explained way on saying it how it should of been said also funny on some of the explained parts you said about your form if it makes you a better shooter then stay with it spot on I'm just starting to learn recurve which is going to be a challenge especially after using a compound for years I still do but I like to be challenged so I'm going for it. Thank you I'm saving this vid in my recurve tutorials.
Great summery. I often showed this video to a friend who started out archery.
But the point of equipments aside from poundage is a bit advanced and nearly impossible to understand if you only start shooting archery. For example, arrow tuning needs you to have fairly consistent form first otherwise you cannot tune the arrow except choosing a spine for your poundage. Regardless, I think key takeaway here is consistency and this video is great to emphasise it.
Another great video!!! Thanks ❤
Archers !
At 42 seconds into this post notice this instructors perfect shot sequence and form. Take note of how he lines up his draw arm elbow with the point of his arrow . Notice the release is straight back with no plucking left or right. ! This post is outstanding! Enjoy! 🏹
if your practicing aiming another great way is to focus on the grouping method doesn't matter where you aim as long as you aim at the same target until you learn how your arrows group if they are wide an untamed it means your not consistent on either the way your moving or the way your aiming, once you start getting a nice tight group you can start practicing aiming for the middle target but adjusting where your current aim to where the grouping is by making very small adjustments
Thanks for the bow string, looks great and fast delivery! will be ordering more, can I do a custom colors? My daughter is going to want Oregon ducks colors.
Love it! 😀
Whatever it takes to get that Arrow to hit the mark that you are aiming for is what you do and that's what you stay with
Should I unstring my bow after use each time?
Any tips for beginners with hyper extension/double jointed arms?
Hi Kramer. I was told by older, experienced archers at my club that I shouldn't "look down my arrow" as I would end up with a sore neck by the end of the day.
I subsequently spent the next few sessions trying to keep my head straighter, which affected my aim.
My question is, should i revert back to how I felt comfortable on my first session, or continue trying to keep my head straight and get used to aiming from there?
Cheers from Australia 🍻
Nice one 😁
Great video, Kramer! I felt encouraged and will keep these principles in mind going forward.
I’m 67 and just started this sport. Wish I would have started sooner , but I’m left eye dominant shooting right handed because who knows, horribly right handed. So I think about shooting like throwing darts or a baseball. Your thoughts?
As you're talking about braceheight: how do you find out the perfect braceheight for your bow, when you're a mediocre archer? So far, the "best" results I got was to use the upper end of the recommended setting. But I figure there should be a better method - question just is: can I do it when I'm not an awesome shot?^^
Absolutely you can.
For brace height as long as you are in the recommended range for that bow, The main goal is that it would be the same every time you shoot. If the bow feels like it is shooting good to you. Measure it there and keep it there. hope this helps!
Good video....Thanx
All good advice. With practice, can get good enough to only shoot 1 arrow at one bullseye. If you shoot at the same bullseye with multiple arrows, you will start ruining a lot of arrows.
Damn I really needed to hear this lol
Hey here’s a question I work with cub scouts a lot a my kids go to the range shoot and get discouraged because there isn’t much repetitive training. They don’t get a chance to get good because we’re on a time limit.
Just wondering where you get the dice target, or if you have any recommendations that I may be able to get in the UK please?
Awesome. When all else fails,do what works. Can we get a primitive build next...ish? Been learning the does and don'ts of tillering with a double bit ax and a Mora and bout to give up and go get a saw and a chalk line😂. Almost had one done this morning ( even had a string with 3/4 draw and an even bend on an elliptical tiller) then heard a tick while exercising the last tiller. Found where it was coming from and decided it was a faint run off in the grain and a tooling mark on the side of the limb had caused the break. The limb still took far beyond the intended draw to break, but I would rather test the blank than continue just to have it fail anyway. The Dwarf Maple I am using seems tough enough, but I am hunting for some siberian elm for my next try. Thanks for all the info Man you rock.
Thanks so much! I would lobe to do some primitive builds soon! I have a few other videos in the works and scheduled first But I will get there soon!
Great job on the bow making that sounds so fun!
I just found a longbow at an estate sale and bought a few light arrows and a straw bale to shoot at. It’s pretty fun, but the string keeps hitting my hand that holds the bow. The bow says 68 but the store only had 69 string. Is that why it’s hitting my left hand?
I'm in 10 present, I use a 300 Winchester model 70 never miss keep shooting sticks ?
Ok I have a question I'm 60 years old I shot as a your man middle school age would like to get back into it but my body is not strong at all due to life can you advise what I should do as a young man I was lefthand left eye dominant but here's the kicker I shot right handed so let's say i new all over thanks for sharing
I LOVE bowhunting in an almost spiritual way, but after 30 years I've finally accepted I'll never be good enough to hunt without a mechanical release, and I would NEVER stoop to using one. (I have an undiagnosed and weird neurological condition). I was a really good shot when I was 18.
Hey Cramer, my name is Chad. I'm from Northern California I was wondering how much it would be to have a recurve bow with the same setup as a compound bow
I have been shooting compound for a few years and want to try traditional archery. This video was the first to pop up and it led me to your bow reviews. I was going to get the Black Hunter but have a question. Can I use one of those stick on arrow rests instead of shooting off the shelf? With the change in arrow position mess up the set up or tunning? Great videos, they are helping out a lot!!!!!
Check out shot IQ he is legit
Hey, did u have looked the Oak Ridge Mystic ???
great video and advice... what is your draw legnth and what was the length, spine of the arrow and the grain of the field point that you were shooting in this video?
Thank you here is the info: 29" draw length 450 Spine 100gn field points 33" arrow
@@kramerammonsarchery thanks for the reply. I have a 38 lb RD Bones and also have a 29 inch draw and ordered 400 spine with 100 gn field point 33" arrow. just wanted to make sure I was in the right ballpark since i can't find the email from Kazden and ordered them off of memory.
I went outside everyday and shot my recurve and I think I’m pretty darn good considering I watched only like 2 videos to get me started
I recently dusted off my 30 year old bow and I'm having fun shooting wildly in the general direction of my new wall of hay bales. My arrow rest is made of a slice of plastic water bottle and some Gorilla tape. My form is poor, my eyesight is failing, my arrows were what they had at the store. My target is drawn with marker, a human size guy named Norman. I still get a head shot about 1 in 10 from 100 feet. Next paycheck I'm investing in a real arrow rest, hopefully bump that up to 1 in 5. No Normans will invade MY yard!
You guys send bows to Brazil?
Si puo tirare tre dita sotto anche se tiller e per mediterraneo tipo longbow?
Try doing pin spot at 80 yards consistently out door regards Graham Flowers
I make sure that at least one of my arrows is marked at my bows optimal brace height. 👍
What about those that can draw war bows? Like 125 thru 200 lbs. Should i start at a 100lb bow?
I use a 30-40bl bow
i keep plucking the string when releasing how do it improve?
For the arrows, all mine are the same spine rating(I'm new to archery forgive the lack of knowledge please) and I use the same exact bullet tip heads. However, the arrows are made of two different materials, some are carbon fiber, some are metal. Does material have an effect on accuracy? Also, my bow is a 45 lbs Kodiak recurve bow, is that considered a decent brand for beginners? Or at all?
Anybody with knowledge, tips, etc is more than welcome to reply.
I am more consistent when I slightly bend my knee, bend at the waist and Kant my bow. Shooting instinctively this way is easier for me.
That awesome
Cool video as always mate. Second shot was better though 😂
Fair enough - Thats the way I prefer to shoot!
1) Form is not the most important thing. People use it as an all purpose explanation. Anyone has a problem, the answer is "you need to work on your form". And this is from Keyboard Coaches who have never seen the guy shoot. And for most shooters that may be right but quantify for me by how much. If I am shooting 90 meters maybe a big difference, but at twelve, if you have a reasonably square T form, a no torque grip, that should work.
That said, if one were doing crazy stuff, like throwing one's arm back over one's head, that's not only going to have deer jump the string, but it is unlikely that whatever one feels is consistent about that is going to last.
2) Light vs. heavy arrows is less an issue than correct spine. And that gets tough if you have a bunch of different bows, because that can be a significant investment in arrows.
3) For people that are reasonably squared away and still have big problems posting strong scores, normally, and this is based on tons of clinics, they are overbowed. Your "cut your draw weight in half" is probably a good starting point. The real problem isn't so much being overbowed, it is the fact people generally can't tell. And they refuse to believe it.
If I could start serious archery all over again, from over 40 years ago. I wouldn't buy custom bows, I would get a decent riser, and all the limbs. ILF limbs are really cheap if you pick them up second hand or from sales. I like to have slightly more money in my main user limbs. But when I learned to hit reliably, I stopped caring about how fancy my gear was.
I have 5 pound increments up to 80 pounds. Because I had kids along the way, and back in the day, everyone shot much heavier bows. With a few riser lengths, and half a dozen limbs you can cover a lot of weights. But if you were just doing it for the average adult you would need a too light pair, a too heavy pair, and a middling pair. I would think that 30-40-50 would cover it for many. It is harder for small archers who need to hit 40# where there are regulations, because your heavy pair is probably what you would hunt with. And that means you could be maxed out. The nice thing about hunting off the middle weight is that you have one set to build strength with, and to be aware of when you actually go off the cliff for excess weight. And you have a light pair for beginning, fun shooting, or injuries.
Just to correct one of your points, If you are planning to hunt go ahead and practice with arrows the same weight you will hunt with, do not use lighter arrows to practice. Changing weight before you hunt means relearning the way the arrows fly. If you want to get good enough to hunt, consistency is key. Isnt that supposed to be the point of the video?
The arrow has to be in the deepest point of the string when pulling. Or the string Will flex when releases letting the arrow jumping. This happens when you have all 3 fingers UNDER the arrow. You need to pull the arrow and string right. You need to have a finger OVER the arrow, in thet Way tour arrow is on the deepest point of the string. Getting all the power in the reales. And thats the whole point when realesing.
Om surprised that you dont know sutch a basic g-force thing about center of force. 🤔
Sigma alpha long bow grindset mindset that’s me on god
Great video. However most beginners don’t understand a lot of your terms. Beginners don’t understand arrow tuning.