the videos are awesome, you inspired me to start painting and restoring guitars for 2.5 years now. every time i had a question about something… you always had a video on it. thank you
Brad, Good job it's nice to see how well it's coming together I hope to hear how really good it will sound ; building a great step by step tone base, yes double meaning very thoughtful. Well done you! Best David I hope it's a most excellent guitar some of us love acoustic guitars really good to see how you lien into it materials an using all your techniques and expanding into materials, it's that whole Stratovarius brilliant okay I'm going to really do this build the best I know how. "It's Good" 👍
I've been quite excited by the idea of using epoxy in the finishing process since I saw how Ken Parker uses it on his archtops. I need to experiment with it some day soon!
I don't know about ecopoxy but there is a great Ken Parker's tip in case you use "regular" west system epoxy- When the epoxy is fully dried on the surface there will be amine waxy layer that doesn't like to bond further. You only need a warm water wet cloth and rub the surface thoroughly to remove the amine.
They now sell this stuff in Europe but also found Epodex clear and the ultra look the same! This stuff is definitely what I'm going to use in the future. I've just done a strat body in my normal fill and it takes ages to dry and takes even longer to take off... this stuff looks awesome.. first time I've used the mesh sanding discs and why hasn't I used them before? Last ages if kept clean and even when the edges go dull from the sander they wrap around a small block perfectly... looks class Brad.
Spruce acoustic tops aren't supposed to be grain filled. Also, you're going to have trouble gluing the fingerboard extension to the top now that it's covered in epoxy.
As usual - to each their own my friend. You certainly don’t have to fill yours if you’re doing one. I don’t think the gluing will be an issue. It’s sanded back so that the epoxy is in the grain only; as it should be.
@@BradAngove As you state, to each his or her own. Traditionally, the purpose of filling the pores of wood is to create a smoother surface. In woods with large pores - typically called open-pored woods - if the pores are not filled, one gets a "pitted" finish. In some circumstances, the finisher wants that aesthetic. In woods that have sufficiently small pores - typically called closed-pored woods - it isn't necessary to fill the pores of the wood. A finish applied to a closed-pored wood can be quite smooth and "pit" free without filling the pores. Most, if not all wood from coniferous trees - spruce, pine, cedar, fir, etc. - are closed-pored woods and don't require their pores to be filled. It is very rare that a finisher will fill the pores of such woods - it is wasted, time, money and effort, since it produces no tangible result. In the case of coniferous-wood guitar tops, specifically, most makers attempt to minimize added mass that can adversely affect tone. Epoxy is a very heavy material - compared to some other finishes and compared to coniferous woods. With an open-pored wood, the epoxy will sit on the surface since the pores aren't large enough to accept much epoxy. Sanding it back to bare wood then removes virtually all of the epoxy. Epoxy can be an effective sealer, but there are considerably less expensive materials for that purpose - and easier materials with which to work. Epoxy can also be an effective pore filler, but the pores on coniferous woods don't need filling prior to applying finishes, such as lacquer, shellac, oils, etc. I know of no other guitar maker who pore-fills ("grain-fills") coniferous guitar tops. Each to his or her own.
Nice video brother. I've actually used 2K high solids 2:1 Euro clear to grain fill. Great as a filler if you don't reduce it. It has to be high solids to get the desired results but the epoxy seems like a great option as well. Love your channel brother.
Great vid mate. I really need to do more research on using epoxy instead of regular 2k clear, especially over airbrushed acrylic paint. It really interests me.
Hi Brad - Will any 2-part epoxy resin (from a hardware store) work as a grain filler, or is there a specific type. I’d like to use it to grain-fill a bare Ash Strat body, that I will then finish it with black acrylic lacquer. I absolutely love your videos, thank you for sharing your expertise!
The thinner ones with longer setting time should work. This is a casting resin. It’s not quite like those double tube adhesive epoxies you would typically get from a hardware store.
I've been watching videos by stonecoat countertops whenever they have a chance of drips they don't want they tape up around the area where they expect the drip so that when it hardens you can just peel the tape and the drips come off
Hey Brad, If I did this on a solid body top, do I sand and buff to a shine before I add layers of clear coat, or just the 800 grit then spray on some 2k?
Looks great. Please use a light amber tint over the complete guitar. I'm just not a fan of epoxy fillers. I've used them and found I prefer anything other than epoxy. Also I hate the smell and clean up.
Question Brad, do you think using epoxy like this would have a more adverse affect on how much the top can resonate vs a water based filler? I know finish doesn't matter at all on electrics but more heavily braced acoustics can have a dead sound since the top can't move as much. So would this epoxy stiffen the sound board? Love the videos!
I dont think so its very very thin and its only in the grain so I think it won't make that much difference. I honestly think a hard finish like polly would dull the sound nore than the fill. If he does a oil finish I think it will resonate just as well.
@@stu-j That was my initial thought too but I just figured since epoxy dries so much harder than your average filler it might stiffen the board overall. That would be an interesting experiment.
@@falcongunner33 I don't know because it isn't a lot of epoxy that actually goes on its very very little and you sand most of it off leaving only what in the grain to give you a smooth finish at the end. I don't think it will shrink like standard filler can and it will probably bind with the wood itself. It could make the guitar actually sound louder if the top is stiff all over giving it more bass... but who knows until its done and see how it sounds.
@@BradAngove that makes sense. My first acoustic build I didn't even fill, I just used tinted lacquer. That thing is super responsive. Planning an all koa build next so I might try the epoxy.
why are you grain filling spruce ? isnt it a closed pore wood ? - I thought that it was only the back and sides that needed grain filling ? I'm just about to do the finishing on my first guitar so any help would be much appreciated.
Curious. My epoxy says deeper pours cure faster because the cure process generates heat, and the more heat generated the faster it cures, so lower volume pours take longer. Is that not the case with Ecopoxy?
Doesn't a thinner pour mean a longer cure time? Epoxy curing is exothermic, which means it generates heat (which makes the reaction happen faster, which makes more heat... etc). So surely a thicker pour will cure faster?
@@BradAngove , ya destroy the warmth that spruce gives. Your eliminating the snap (deadening) and tonality that spruce imparts. The character. Ya might as well put a maple top on it.
the videos are awesome, you inspired me to start painting and restoring guitars for 2.5 years now. every time i had a question about something… you always had a video on it. thank you
Ditto .....
I needed this one .,I can learn anything by watching someone else do it first...you've taught me alot the last 3 maybe 4 yrs now......Thanks
Cheers. I’m glad you’re finding the videos helpful.
I get more excited for this kit every episode. I think that is a genius move of Solo to offer these type of acoustic guitars.
They’re seemingly not very easy to come by elsewhere, so I totally agree.
Brad,
Good job it's nice to see how well it's coming together I hope to hear how really good it will sound ; building a great step by step tone base, yes double meaning very thoughtful. Well done you!
Best David
I hope it's a most excellent guitar some of us love acoustic guitars really good to see how you lien into it materials an using all your techniques and expanding into materials, it's that whole Stratovarius brilliant okay I'm going to really do this build the best I know how. "It's Good" 👍
I've been quite excited by the idea of using epoxy in the finishing process since I saw how Ken Parker uses it on his archtops. I need to experiment with it some day soon!
Great job Brad! I'm very proud of you. I can't wait to see the finished project.
Haha thanks Brian
It's looking great can't wait to see you put it together.
Cheers Mark
I don't know about ecopoxy but there is a great Ken Parker's tip in case you use "regular" west system epoxy- When the epoxy is fully dried on the surface there will be amine waxy layer that doesn't like to bond further. You only need a warm water wet cloth and rub the surface thoroughly to remove the amine.
They now sell this stuff in Europe but also found Epodex clear and the ultra look the same! This stuff is definitely what I'm going to use in the future. I've just done a strat body in my normal fill and it takes ages to dry and takes even longer to take off... this stuff looks awesome.. first time I've used the mesh sanding discs and why hasn't I used them before? Last ages if kept clean and even when the edges go dull from the sander they wrap around a small block perfectly... looks class Brad.
Cheers Stu!
Never thought of epoxy as a grain filler - thanks for the video Brad
Cheers Dan
Spruce acoustic tops aren't supposed to be grain filled. Also, you're going to have trouble gluing the fingerboard extension to the top now that it's covered in epoxy.
As usual - to each their own my friend. You certainly don’t have to fill yours if you’re doing one.
I don’t think the gluing will be an issue. It’s sanded back so that the epoxy is in the grain only; as it should be.
@@BradAngove As you state, to each his or her own. Traditionally, the purpose of filling the pores of wood is to create a smoother surface. In woods with large pores - typically called open-pored woods - if the pores are not filled, one gets a "pitted" finish. In some circumstances, the finisher wants that aesthetic. In woods that have sufficiently small pores - typically called closed-pored woods - it isn't necessary to fill the pores of the wood. A finish applied to a closed-pored wood can be quite smooth and "pit" free without filling the pores. Most, if not all wood from coniferous trees - spruce, pine, cedar, fir, etc. - are closed-pored woods and don't require their pores to be filled. It is very rare that a finisher will fill the pores of such woods - it is wasted, time, money and effort, since it produces no tangible result.
In the case of coniferous-wood guitar tops, specifically, most makers attempt to minimize added mass that can adversely affect tone. Epoxy is a very heavy material - compared to some other finishes and compared to coniferous woods. With an open-pored wood, the epoxy will sit on the surface since the pores aren't large enough to accept much epoxy. Sanding it back to bare wood then removes virtually all of the epoxy.
Epoxy can be an effective sealer, but there are considerably less expensive materials for that purpose - and easier materials with which to work. Epoxy can also be an effective pore filler, but the pores on coniferous woods don't need filling prior to applying finishes, such as lacquer, shellac, oils, etc. I know of no other guitar maker who pore-fills ("grain-fills") coniferous guitar tops. Each to his or her own.
Lookin' good Brad as usual
Thanks Andy
If the scratches are not too big, you can also fill with superglue. Rob
It’s more about grain porosity rather than scratches, but there are some thicker super glues that work quite well as fillers.
Nice video brother. I've actually used 2K high solids 2:1 Euro clear to grain fill. Great as a filler if you don't reduce it. It has to be high solids to get the desired results but the epoxy seems like a great option as well. Love your channel brother.
Cheers brother. That’s a good option too, just not one most of my viewers will have access to.
Great vid mate. I really need to do more research on using epoxy instead of regular 2k clear, especially over airbrushed acrylic paint. It really interests me.
I take it you mean as a final clear coat that doesn’t require spraying?
Simple tip for pouring Brad is to pour the container from the side, gives better control and no spills down the front of the container. 😃.
Thanks John
Good demo as usual, Interesting technique, how hard is the epoxy when fully cured? 🤔
Harder than typical filler. Hard enough to be used as a clear coat (or even a countertop for that matter).
@@BradAngove that will nock off hours of work and a pint of nitrocellulose lacquer, thanks 😊
This is exactly what I was looking for. I want to use as filler on a table top.
Nice; that’ll be fun.
Solo told me that its a laminate top so I don't think the finish will affect the tone much.
Hi Brad - Will any 2-part epoxy resin (from a hardware store) work as a grain filler, or is there a specific type. I’d like to use it to grain-fill a bare Ash Strat body, that I will then finish it with black acrylic lacquer.
I absolutely love your videos, thank you for sharing your expertise!
The thinner ones with longer setting time should work. This is a casting resin. It’s not quite like those double tube adhesive epoxies you would typically get from a hardware store.
@@BradAngove Awesome - thanks, Brad!
I've been watching videos by stonecoat countertops whenever they have a chance of drips they don't want they tape up around the area where they expect the drip so that when it hardens you can just peel the tape and the drips come off
Yup, that’s definitely an option. The only concern is with it getting under the tape and hardening there.
Hey Brad,
If I did this on a solid body top, do I sand and buff to a shine before I add layers of clear coat, or just the 800 grit then spray on some 2k?
Just the 800 grit. If you buff it to a shine the clear coat won’t stick.
do you recommend using Epoxy grain filling on a solid body electric guitar instead of oil based grain fillers? like Mohawk Grain Filler?
They’re both good options. The epoxy is more expensive, but is nice and clear and hardens more.
Looks great. Please use a light amber tint over the complete guitar. I'm just not a fan of epoxy fillers. I've used them and found I prefer anything other than epoxy. Also I hate the smell and clean up.
Some of them do have a pretty aggressive smell. I haven’t found that to really be the case with ecopoxy, but it’s definitely worth noting.
I don't see that stuff on either the Ecpoxy or Solo sites. Solo sells something called Ice Epoxy but no Ecopoxy
Yeah Solo has a different product. They don’t carry ecopoxy.
Could that stoff go on as a clearcoat insted of using like an acrylic or 2K spray can?
Yes; it could. It’s used to clear coat furniture relatively frequently.
@@BradAngove
Nice...
Might try that some time... ;)
Thanks dude...
Question Brad, do you think using epoxy like this would have a more adverse affect on how much the top can resonate vs a water based filler? I know finish doesn't matter at all on electrics but more heavily braced acoustics can have a dead sound since the top can't move as much. So would this epoxy stiffen the sound board? Love the videos!
I dont think so its very very thin and its only in the grain so I think it won't make that much difference. I honestly think a hard finish like polly would dull the sound nore than the fill. If he does a oil finish I think it will resonate just as well.
@@stu-j That was my initial thought too but I just figured since epoxy dries so much harder than your average filler it might stiffen the board overall. That would be an interesting experiment.
@@falcongunner33 I don't know because it isn't a lot of epoxy that actually goes on its very very little and you sand most of it off leaving only what in the grain to give you a smooth finish at the end. I don't think it will shrink like standard filler can and it will probably bind with the wood itself. It could make the guitar actually sound louder if the top is stiff all over giving it more bass... but who knows until its done and see how it sounds.
I’m expecting it to brighten the sound slightly. Similar to superglue fills, which are quite popular on acoustic builds.
@@BradAngove that makes sense. My first acoustic build I didn't even fill, I just used tinted lacquer. That thing is super responsive. Planning an all koa build next so I might try the epoxy.
why are you grain filling spruce ? isnt it a closed pore wood ? - I thought that it was only the back and sides that needed grain filling ? I'm just about to do the finishing on my first guitar so any help would be much appreciated.
I wanted to grain fill it to help with my final finish, but it certainly wasn’t required.
@@BradAngove Ok - Thats good to know - but does it restrict the top unnecessarily I wonder ? - thanks Brad
I likely has an impact on how the guitar sounds if that’s what you’re asking.
Curious. My epoxy says deeper pours cure faster because the cure process generates heat, and the more heat generated the faster it cures, so lower volume pours take longer. Is that not the case with Ecopoxy?
Not as far as I know.
Epoxy dermatitis is a real thing apparently. I think gloves are a good idea!
Indeed they are
Doesn't a thinner pour mean a longer cure time? Epoxy curing is exothermic, which means it generates heat (which makes the reaction happen faster, which makes more heat... etc). So surely a thicker pour will cure faster?
More material to cure and less air exposure per volume means a thicker pour will take longer to cure.
Mr. Angove where are your gloves ?
I generally don’t use gloves for epoxy.
Why would you want a brighter sound out of the top?
Why not?
@@BradAngove , ya destroy the warmth that spruce gives. Your eliminating the snap (deadening) and tonality that spruce imparts. The character. Ya might as well put a maple top on it.
I take it you’re not a big fan of superglue fill on acoustic guitar tips either then?
@@BradAngove , super glue is a wonderful thing. I don’t understand exactly what you’re talking about.
@@BradAngove , if you’re talking about the end grain, that’s fine and dandy. It doesn’t have any effect on the rest of the top.