Steve, I’ve been watching for years now (where does the time go) and I have to say I love every episode. Yes these projects are a MASSIVE amount of work - but when they’re finished - OMG the accomplishment is just sick!!!! I was watching and remember thinking “how the hell did he ever manage in that tiny shop in Spain” when seeing the vast array of tools lined up against the work benches in the shop!!! Just know we LOVE these long episodes and while I know the recording and editing is a job by itself, you must admit documenting these projects at this level is also a value added service to these owners and posterity that demonstrates to others how to do things correctly AND not be afraid to make mistakes. Thanks so much and can’t wait to see these current projects wrapped up!! 👏🏽👏🏽
Michael, I must say this is one of the greatest comments of all time. Thanks for sticking with me for so long. Where have four years gone?! Spain was a bit of a struggle for numerous reasons, however great the weather was... Haha. Even with all of these tools, I feel like I have only 10% of what I need! It will never end... I'm super glad you're enjoying the E30 stuff as much as I am! I plan on making these episodes at least half an hour long, with a few one hour specials every now and again. Mistakes are some of the most valuable things I've done, so I plan to share many more along the way. Again thanks for the lovely comment!
@@RestoreIt As long as you’re making videos, I’m going to go along for the ride until the wheels fall off brother!! You’re a master at what you do and I’m here for it and can’t wait to see where this career will take you and your unparalleled dedication!!!! Cheers!! ♥️♥️
Hi, i like almost all of your videos, great work. On this one I can't understand why you didn't drill spot welds on main body. Would be a lot easyer.? Keep wire stick out as short as possible , you welds will be better.
Great videos and keep up the good work. FYI - You can apply primer straight to blasted metal as long as it is clean. The extra roughness of the blasted metal will only help the primer adhere even better than the finish of a wire wheel. Plus, that way you don't risk contaminating the metal if not using fresh, clean wire wheels. You can also use an acid treatment like Phospho to etch and treat flash rust before priming (as long as not using an etch primer).
Hi Steve, That piece on the chassis leg, for the new piece, you should have just drilled out the spot welds, removed the old piece and weld up the old spot weld with the new piece inserted. Would have saved you hours. Loving the project, keep up the good work
When drilling holes ready for welding they need to be a decent size, 5/6mm, that way you can get a proper weld join. Didn't look like you had enough power/penetration to me, I would double check that 👍
Why did you not install cross braces? I could see the shell flex when you lowered the lift. This shell will now have to be aligned, unless you want to hit speed bumps in the middle of the car. not a criticism, your work is good.
you went through all that trouble of cutting out the piece just to drill out holes for the new spot weld... you should have done that in the beginning *facepalm*
WOW that is some serious dedication! I've been following this for a while and was amazed when you went to the extent of shot blasting the entire chassis, but to then wire-wheel/polish the whole thing before temporary paint was a pleasure to watch! Totally agree with the dipping and then E-coat process as well - it will be one of the best protected E30's out there. It's making me want to get on with my E30 now. Glad to hear the Mercedes saga is coming to an end - that sounds like it's been a millstone around your neck (I know what it's like as I've been in similar situations). Keep up the good work!
Silly question, but why didn't you just drill out the rusty one since you were going to drill holes anyway, might have been a whole lot easier to extract
I wondered this too, you went around it in a way that gave you more work than you needed. If it where me, the donor car, whack the front inch off the leg with a grinder, then you can easily grind through the top of each weld with the grinder… no need for a spot weld drill, you only use those when your trying to take a part off and re use it on the same car (but I see people do this every day). Then on the car your restoring you sacrifice the bit you don’t want again, conventional drill through the spot welds, all the way through and the bad part comes away easily. Granted you would have had to use the finger sander along the bottom.
Incredible amount of detail you go through to get the end result! Very much appreciate how you take the time to describe all the work you're doing and even some of the reasons why you're doing it. Not to slight your welding skills, and considering this looks like a path you're going to be going down for a long time, you might consider looking into a hand held spot welding gun, it would speed up your work and give you consistent quality. Just a suggestion for you. Keep up the good work, always look forward to new uploads on your channel all the time! Cheers!
Thanks Bartman! Glad you're enjoying it. And I would absolutely love one... I just need to be careful on the budget of this restoration. Maybe one day!
When you want to use a panel, it's better to grind the spot welds of from the panel touching it, than to use a spot weld drill. Spot weld drills are good when you want to separate two panels and weld them together later. When you are just using one of the two panels; use a finger sander or a flap disc to grind the panel you are not using and keep the panel that you are using in perfect shape; no drills going too deep by mistake or deformation from using a chisel to split them.
In the case of this small front piece with the square nuts, I would have just cut off the chassis leg with an angle grinder 5mm behind the piece you want to use and then grind what is left on the piece off with a flap disc.
@@RestoreIt I commented before watching the video to the end. I later saw that you already learned that lesson and used it to clean up the pillars on the rear quarter panel. Good job; we all learn these things by doing.
I haven't commented back then and this is now already 2 month old video, but honestly don't worry about chop. It would crime against cars if you take complete car which "could be saved" and chop it as many people do. It just painful to see them buying complete cars for slightly more money than they worth whole knowing full well that they recoup it when they part them out. Countless E30s and E24s have ended their life like this. I even tried to buy one E24 last year, it needed loads of work but seller would not budge, he wanted rather arbitrary £6,000 no matter what... I made him several reasonable offers working backwards from my budget of £10,000 and considering what car needed doing... to be really honest my realistic calculation ended-up in negative (meaning car just wasn't worth fixing), but best case scenario (it is never best case!) I figured I can offer him £3250 and he had some bit and wheels so I said let's do it for £3500... 3700... 3850... . NOPE he wanted £6,000. At this point I got principal as well, because I detailed very clearly what car needs doing and how it makes it worth basically £0 anyway, but I would be willing to take it just to save it and I liked it was silver 628, manual, with blue leather and rear seats with headrests and with sunroof. So I said F-it I am not going to be overpaying in principle. 2... weeks later cars sold! Another 2 weeks later I see 628 parts available from one well known 6-series butchers on ebay... In short - yes there are people who are actively destroying classic cars for profit. You are NOT one of them... that E30 was a crashed shell already destined for scrappers, basically somebody already bought it, salvaged it for parts and wanted to get rid of it, it wasn't worth anything anyway and it helps you to bring another car on the road. Don't feel bad about it!
I said it last episode and i'll say it again, i'm just so happy to see this car back on the channel! I know the chassis is getting acid dipped, but seeing it all one color and not covered in surface rust just feels so good. Looking forward to the next episode!!
Good to see the Beemer back. Parts cars on the doorstep are a very good thing, you never know what you’re going to need, plus they’re a good reference guide when you’re trying to visualise a rebuild. Got to agree about the Finger Sander, highly useful for what it is. Great work keep at it, although i did wince when i saw you pulling at those bits of panel you cut out without gloves on ... been there too often, sliced fingers ruin your day.
Keep going budd dont stop doing what you can to get car back on the road give yourself a pat on the back as its not easy if you are inexperenced at taken that much of a projected on all i will say lot of people would have given up you have not keep going you got this never dout you cannot do this 👍👍👏👏👏👏💞💞 well done my freind you got to learn somewere no better time than jump in at the deep end🙊🙊🤣🤣🙏🙏💯%
Glad you found me. There are two roofs to my current workshop. One asbestos, and a metal one put onto of it... both have filthy skylights.. and annoying there are 36 in total. Im moving workshop soon, so the lighting issue will be sorted. Cheers!
Holy moly Jesus balls you are brave, skilled and patient, this would test most of us, vive la rotisserie game changer for this work, love your OCD, already looking forward to the next. M539 and Restore It best two channels on TH-cam and keep me happy for hours with armchair spannering........
I somewhat can't Wait to see any episode about E30, dont get me wrong, benz Is beauty, but as ex-e30 owner (sadly, but it was "only 318i" And I got great price for it) it got to my heart, i would not Even mind whole episode only about extracting one piece of puzzle As its being very helpful. Please keep up doing great work,showing your success And errors. It Is great Journey. It helped me get so much courage as youve shown your own errors and mistakes, not only "good" side of restoration. Keep up doing great work. Best Regards, Karel, from czech republic.
Thank you Karel, I'm really glad you're enjoying the E30 stuff and that it's helped you! it's also what I'm most excited about and I can't wait to share more. Steve
It is a lot easier to drill welding points than you think, you need a M8 cobalt drill, or buy a few and resharp them, so you can have some spares and you don't waste so much time on these. I recommend you watch these 2 videos, these are in russian, but you don't need to listen them to understand, you can get the point just by watching. I was like you before, but now I don't waste so much time on these things. 1. watch?v=t70aR15XLSQ 2. watch?v=IxuHJ99SWow P.S. No links, yt will not let me post these.
Been watching all your videos, these are great and helpful! I'm "restoring" a 325IS myself, not going as in depth as you but been taking some ideas from your videos. I was wondering, is there a golden source you're following when putting the car back together? I know there's a lot of infor out there, but I'm more concerned about the order. Not wanting to take things back off because I was supposed to put something else first 😂
"But I cannot sleep at night knowing the engine bay is a different color". That plus the change of mind regarding the rust treatment (going acid dip after having done so much already). Oh man, I share the same irrational anxiety. That is me, 100%, on my 240Z restoration. And at the end of the day, I am still not happy because "I would have saved so much time and money if I did it like X the first time" I admire your work though. Thorough as usual. Great video, which I am sure is time consuming.. It's awesome! And I admire your workshop!! I wish I had one as well!! Regarding the "red primer", I really don't think you HAD to do it before the acid dip. I am pretty sure it is a phosphate acid primer, which is good against corrosion for a while but weak against scratches. Simply applying phosphate acid on all the bare metal would do the same, look better and would cost close to nothing. Either way, it's done, and it's good enough. Just think about phosphate acid for the next one :)
Buy an MBX-grinder for removing the undercoating. Then you get a good surface for prep work after :) Also, you might want to lengthen the hoses for draining from the sunroof. Not 100% sure how it is on E30's, but on E34's the hoses stop inside the sills and that makes the car rust. I am going to extend the hoses on my own E30 to make sure the rain doesn't end up inside my sills. Keep up the good work :D
Da, it takes very much patience to renovate something as it should be done, not just by filling holes with bondo (or even worse spray foam, the new fashion), therefore you must have enough motivation, time, a place to do it, some "connections".. =) You do, apparently, so good for you. Don't worry if you drill a little in the underlying panel when picking spots, even if you drill through is not a big deal that weld can't cope with.. =) It might get your job waaay faster. When you repait holes on a single skin, if you can, clamp on the back a piece of copper and magically the hole will fill itself.. Cheers anyway, I'm enjoying the progress, although I thought BMW's don't rust so much.. Cheers, go on, it's too late to stop! 😉
Iv been an E30 lover since they came out iv had a few of them now..and I'm restoring the M3 E30.. Are you still in Spain?? Your patience and your detail is admirable. I wish i could restore more old cars..
Hey mate, just having a look at this haven’t seen too much but I’d recommend taking the sunroof tray off. Bmw sell them new but there is a bit of glue between the two that doesnt stop rust. You can take them off the skin if you are gentle. But it’s tricky. Going to this much effort I recommend it. Also invest in a quick strip disk and a rotary polisher. Strips quick on low speed without warping.
Just wanted to share amateur to amateur, I'm also building a 1987 325is and have it on a rotisserie. I wanted to prevent the kind of damage to the bumper shock mounts you repaired in this episode so I built plates that fit into the mount area with holes to bolt it to the mount, welded some 2x2 square tube to that plate and then mounted all that to the bumper shock mount. I have pictures I can share but no worries if you're good with what you have. Sorry for the unsolicited input, I'm sure you get enough of it everyday. Love the videos.
Wouldn't it be a lot easier on your back if you did all the quarter panel work on a work bench or something? My back was hurting watching you lol... keep up the good work
It would indeed Craig! I need to get some sort of bench on wheel I can wheel into the spray booth. I needed the extraction because it was such a messy job. Cheers!
As a German i can only say; du habs denn deutsche gründlichkeit, which means that you have the German thoroughness when it comes to detail. Good job and i hope to see more episodes in the near future. Danke schön!
seeing you cut everything out so much is like torture.... but i guess you gotta trust the process right ... looking forward to the final results... mad props to the level of effort !!! madness.
Interesting that it apparently adheres better to a more polished surface than a blasted surface. You'd think it would get more bite on a blasted surface. What a crazy amount of work. Gotta be the most intense resto on this model ever done!
Search for a spot weld cutter. It's a drill bit which is basically a small hole saw but with a sprung loaded centre point. You can easily cut the spot weld off the top sheet without cutting into the second. You could even use it on the one where you are keeping the top piece because you are just left with small holes in the location of the spot welds which you can use to plug weld the new piece in.
5:32 You learn how to extract the destroyed piece without destroying the car you're restoring by learning how to extract the good piece from the car you're using for parts.
May just be me but who the hell restores an old bmw that ain't worth nothing like this crazy seems like a waste of time and money so many cars that would be worth doing
Great to see you using the bodywork primer. I am restoring a classic mini and the shell is protected with the same stuff. It protects it way longer than the 6 months in the specs. Easy to sand and weld with compared with the epoxy.
your OCD makes the videos a joy to watch. Any of us mortals wouldn’t want to go this far and it’s what makes it worth watching. We want to see how a project could be done when you have the patience and passion for it and you want to do it right even as an amateur. I’m sure pros would do it in a quarter of the time but where’s the fun is that? 🤣😜
Hi. If I am looking correct this is the cheaper version of the finger sander isnt it? Are you happy with it or would you prefer a more powerful version from a name brand company. Thanks
@@RestoreIt thanks for answering. I am going to restore a e30 m3. It's the dream car of my dad and I am going to build it with him. But I am going to do much of this work on my own too. Because I want, I do this every day, I love it probably just like you and it would be to expensive if I would give it to a company
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
Great progress dude! I definitely wouldn’t feel bad at all about using that donor, it’s serving this project very well.
Cheers, Ronald! i definetly feel better about it now for sure.
It's always so great to see the Fiero dad!
My two favorite young gearhead restorers commenting each other makes my heart feel warm hahahaha. Love both of your channels!
You must have insane amount of patience to go through all of these. Marvelous...
Or I must be completely mad, one of two...
@@RestoreIt But I’ve been entertained :). Thank you for your efforts!
The amount of time this would take
Very good, proper way to do it, when finished, be 10 times better than anyone that ever left the production line 👌
Steve, I’ve been watching for years now (where does the time go) and I have to say I love every episode. Yes these projects are a MASSIVE amount of work - but when they’re finished - OMG the accomplishment is just sick!!!!
I was watching and remember thinking “how the hell did he ever manage in that tiny shop in Spain” when seeing the vast array of tools lined up against the work benches in the shop!!!
Just know we LOVE these long episodes and while I know the recording and editing is a job by itself, you must admit documenting these projects at this level is also a value added service to these owners and posterity that demonstrates to others how to do things correctly AND not be afraid to make mistakes. Thanks so much and can’t wait to see these current projects wrapped up!! 👏🏽👏🏽
Michael, I must say this is one of the greatest comments of all time. Thanks for sticking with me for so long. Where have four years gone?!
Spain was a bit of a struggle for numerous reasons, however great the weather was... Haha. Even with all of these tools, I feel like I have only 10% of what I need! It will never end...
I'm super glad you're enjoying the E30 stuff as much as I am! I plan on making these episodes at least half an hour long, with a few one hour specials every now and again. Mistakes are some of the most valuable things I've done, so I plan to share many more along the way. Again thanks for the lovely comment!
@@RestoreIt As long as you’re making videos, I’m going to go along for the ride until the wheels fall off brother!! You’re a master at what you do and I’m here for it and can’t wait to see where this career will take you and your unparalleled dedication!!!! Cheers!! ♥️♥️
Best comment Ever
Cleanest E30 Ever 🛠️💪🏻🔥
I was going to leave a comment but I think you have said it all. 👍✔
@@PaulinesPastimes awe, well thank you Mrs. Pauline!!
I made my own car shell roller and i used like dumpster caster wheels its good enough to go over gravel and holds the test of time
Hi, i like almost all of your videos, great work.
On this one I can't understand why you didn't drill spot welds on main body. Would be a lot easyer.?
Keep wire stick out as short as possible , you welds will be better.
hopefully it will come out twice as better when finished
I hope so!
Great videos and keep up the good work. FYI - You can apply primer straight to blasted metal as long as it is clean. The extra roughness of the blasted metal will only help the primer adhere even better than the finish of a wire wheel. Plus, that way you don't risk contaminating the metal if not using fresh, clean wire wheels. You can also use an acid treatment like Phospho to etch and treat flash rust before priming (as long as not using an etch primer).
awesome like always!
Awesome video!!
Hi Steve,
That piece on the chassis leg, for the new piece, you should have just drilled out the spot welds, removed the old piece and weld up the old spot weld with the new piece inserted. Would have saved you hours. Loving the project, keep up the good work
Yup, same thoughts here.
When drilling holes ready for welding they need to be a decent size, 5/6mm, that way you can get a proper weld join. Didn't look like you had enough power/penetration to me, I would double check that 👍
Wooooow!!!! Greate work!😍
Well done..
Love it, keep going as though as it may be
Thanks Alek!
Do you watch the videos from Retro Power ? They did a detailed discussion on dipping v blasting and why they will no longer have shells dipped.
I will look into this cheers Brian!
you know there is a drill bit for spot weld? much quicker than a punch, its like 30$ on amazon
Great progress ! I might be the only one but I'm psyched to see the Mercedes progression too.
Cheers dude! And well, get ready for one large rebuild episode coming soonish!
Awesome content as always!
Thanks Pedro!!
yesss
Why did you not install cross braces? I could see the shell flex when you lowered the lift. This shell will now have to be aligned, unless you want to hit speed bumps in the middle of the car.
not a criticism, your work is good.
you went through all that trouble of cutting out the piece just to drill out holes for the new spot weld... you should have done that in the beginning *facepalm*
WOW that is some serious dedication! I've been following this for a while and was amazed when you went to the extent of shot blasting the entire chassis, but to then wire-wheel/polish the whole thing before temporary paint was a pleasure to watch! Totally agree with the dipping and then E-coat process as well - it will be one of the best protected E30's out there. It's making me want to get on with my E30 now.
Glad to hear the Mercedes saga is coming to an end - that sounds like it's been a millstone around your neck (I know what it's like as I've been in similar situations).
Keep up the good work!
Silly question, but why didn't you just drill out the rusty one since you were going to drill holes anyway, might have been a whole lot easier to extract
I didn't drill holes into the plate though. Just along the bottom of it. I wanted to keep it as untouched as possible
I wondered this too, you went around it in a way that gave you more work than you needed. If it where me, the donor car, whack the front inch off the leg with a grinder, then you can easily grind through the top of each weld with the grinder… no need for a spot weld drill, you only use those when your trying to take a part off and re use it on the same car (but I see people do this every day). Then on the car your restoring you sacrifice the bit you don’t want again, conventional drill through the spot welds, all the way through and the bad part comes away easily. Granted you would have had to use the finger sander along the bottom.
Incredible amount of detail you go through to get the end result! Very much appreciate how you take the time to describe all the work you're doing and even some of the reasons why you're doing it. Not to slight your welding skills, and considering this looks like a path you're going to be going down for a long time, you might consider looking into a hand held spot welding gun, it would speed up your work and give you consistent quality. Just a suggestion for you. Keep up the good work, always look forward to new uploads on your channel all the time! Cheers!
Thanks Bartman! Glad you're enjoying it. And I would absolutely love one... I just need to be careful on the budget of this restoration. Maybe one day!
Steve, this is truly an epic transformation! Love watching your skills improve (already WAY beyond what I could ever hope to learn/do).
Really glad you're enjoying it Jeff!
OMG, your OCD is just on another level. Love your videos. Amount of work to be done scares by only watching your videos from cozy sofa. Good luck!
Haha thanks, Gedgauds! It is a lot of work isn't it...
dumb question but can you paint anything over this red pain or you have to strip it again before painting
When you want to use a panel, it's better to grind the spot welds of from the panel touching it, than to use a spot weld drill. Spot weld drills are good when you want to separate two panels and weld them together later. When you are just using one of the two panels; use a finger sander or a flap disc to grind the panel you are not using and keep the panel that you are using in perfect shape; no drills going too deep by mistake or deformation from using a chisel to split them.
In the case of this small front piece with the square nuts, I would have just cut off the chassis leg with an angle grinder 5mm behind the piece you want to use and then grind what is left on the piece off with a flap disc.
Thanks for the advice Peter, much appreaciated!
@@RestoreIt I commented before watching the video to the end. I later saw that you already learned that lesson and used it to clean up the pillars on the rear quarter panel. Good job; we all learn these things by doing.
I haven't commented back then and this is now already 2 month old video, but honestly don't worry about chop. It would crime against cars if you take complete car which "could be saved" and chop it as many people do. It just painful to see them buying complete cars for slightly more money than they worth whole knowing full well that they recoup it when they part them out. Countless E30s and E24s have ended their life like this. I even tried to buy one E24 last year, it needed loads of work but seller would not budge, he wanted rather arbitrary £6,000 no matter what... I made him several reasonable offers working backwards from my budget of £10,000 and considering what car needed doing... to be really honest my realistic calculation ended-up in negative (meaning car just wasn't worth fixing), but best case scenario (it is never best case!) I figured I can offer him £3250 and he had some bit and wheels so I said let's do it for £3500... 3700... 3850... . NOPE he wanted £6,000. At this point I got principal as well, because I detailed very clearly what car needs doing and how it makes it worth basically £0 anyway, but I would be willing to take it just to save it and I liked it was silver 628, manual, with blue leather and rear seats with headrests and with sunroof. So I said F-it I am not going to be overpaying in principle. 2... weeks later cars sold! Another 2 weeks later I see 628 parts available from one well known 6-series butchers on ebay...
In short - yes there are people who are actively destroying classic cars for profit. You are NOT one of them... that E30 was a crashed shell already destined for scrappers, basically somebody already bought it, salvaged it for parts and wanted to get rid of it, it wasn't worth anything anyway and it helps you to bring another car on the road. Don't feel bad about it!
Love the color! Can't wait to see it finished.
Thanks Thomas!
Bro its primer 🤣
I said it last episode and i'll say it again, i'm just so happy to see this car back on the channel! I know the chassis is getting acid dipped, but seeing it all one color and not covered in surface rust just feels so good. Looking forward to the next episode!!
Good to see the Beemer back. Parts cars on the doorstep are a very good thing, you never know what you’re going to need, plus they’re a good reference guide when you’re trying to visualise a rebuild.
Got to agree about the Finger Sander, highly useful for what it is.
Great work keep at it, although i did wince when i saw you pulling at those bits of panel you cut out without gloves on ... been there too often, sliced fingers ruin your day.
Thanks, Steve. And you're not wrong about a sliced finger...
Whatever happened to "Project M40"? The red wagon from last year? That was a nice little car.
It's currently on hold but I will be getting around to it at some point
I'm lovin it, Steve!
Looking forward to some more content!
Glad to hear it mate, lots more to come!
My god, that IS SO MUCH WORK! You must really like this hahaha I admire your patience.
Thankfully this is one of my passions haha, cheers Pesterenan!
Kitchen knives to remove plastic plugs? You need some proper tools mate...
Tell me about it Jeff!
The problem is the Mercedes, dump it. We come here for the BMW, not the Merc work. ;)
Agreed!
I feel for you the OCD issue is something I suffer from as well!!! Great work and content.
Haha I don't think I really have it... but I'm genuinely not sure. Cheers, scott!
Airhammer with a seam splitter would have made short work of those spot welds.
I have one.. I'll try it out on the second one thanks!
Keep going budd dont stop doing what you can to get car back on the road give yourself a pat on the back as its not easy if you are inexperenced at taken that much of a projected on all i will say lot of people would have given up you have not keep going you got this never dout you cannot do this 👍👍👏👏👏👏💞💞 well done my freind you got to learn somewere no better time than jump in at the deep end🙊🙊🤣🤣🙏🙏💯%
Thank you Darren! Much appreciated!
Yeah, another E30 video...
Thats the channel!
Are the acid guys going to be cool and film the dip?
I do hope so!
First time i've seen you, nice work shop but needs more light fella, not seen enough of your work yet to comment.
Glad you found me. There are two roofs to my current workshop. One asbestos, and a metal one put onto of it... both have filthy skylights.. and annoying there are 36 in total. Im moving workshop soon, so the lighting issue will be sorted. Cheers!
@@RestoreIt must have a few quid with a workshop like that.
dipping it will be a mistake
couldn't you just dip the shell from the get go?
The answer is yes
Holy moly Jesus balls you are brave, skilled and patient, this would test most of us, vive la rotisserie game changer for this work, love your OCD, already looking forward to the next. M539 and Restore It best two channels on TH-cam and keep me happy for hours with armchair spannering........
Brave for stupid Rupert! Cheers for the lovely comment, I'm glad you're enjoying it as much as I am!
I somewhat can't Wait to see any episode about E30, dont get me wrong, benz Is beauty, but as ex-e30 owner (sadly, but it was "only 318i" And I got great price for it) it got to my heart, i would not Even mind whole episode only about extracting one piece of puzzle As its being very helpful. Please keep up doing great work,showing your success And errors. It Is great Journey. It helped me get so much courage as youve shown your own errors and mistakes, not only "good" side of restoration. Keep up doing great work.
Best Regards, Karel, from czech republic.
Thank you Karel, I'm really glad you're enjoying the E30 stuff and that it's helped you! it's also what I'm most excited about and I can't wait to share more. Steve
It is a lot easier to drill welding points than you think, you need a M8 cobalt drill, or buy a few and resharp them, so you can have some spares and you don't waste so much time on these. I recommend you watch these 2 videos, these are in russian, but you don't need to listen them to understand, you can get the point just by watching. I was like you before, but now I don't waste so much time on these things.
1. watch?v=t70aR15XLSQ
2. watch?v=IxuHJ99SWow
P.S. No links, yt will not let me post these.
Been watching all your videos, these are great and helpful! I'm "restoring" a 325IS myself, not going as in depth as you but been taking some ideas from your videos. I was wondering, is there a golden source you're following when putting the car back together? I know there's a lot of infor out there, but I'm more concerned about the order. Not wanting to take things back off because I was supposed to put something else first 😂
"But I cannot sleep at night knowing the engine bay is a different color". That plus the change of mind regarding the rust treatment (going acid dip after having done so much already). Oh man, I share the same irrational anxiety. That is me, 100%, on my 240Z restoration. And at the end of the day, I am still not happy because "I would have saved so much time and money if I did it like X the first time"
I admire your work though. Thorough as usual. Great video, which I am sure is time consuming.. It's awesome! And I admire your workshop!! I wish I had one as well!!
Regarding the "red primer", I really don't think you HAD to do it before the acid dip. I am pretty sure it is a phosphate acid primer, which is good against corrosion for a while but weak against scratches. Simply applying phosphate acid on all the bare metal would do the same, look better and would cost close to nothing. Either way, it's done, and it's good enough. Just think about phosphate acid for the next one :)
I can't say much more than Dr. Johnson (below). Magnificent work Steve . Also, be careful.
Thank you Patrick! And I'll do my best to damage myself during this restoration :)
Buy an MBX-grinder for removing the undercoating. Then you get a good surface for prep work after :)
Also, you might want to lengthen the hoses for draining from the sunroof. Not 100% sure how it is on E30's, but on E34's the hoses stop inside the sills and that makes the car rust. I am going to extend the hoses on my own E30 to make sure the rain doesn't end up inside my sills.
Keep up the good work :D
Hey Rune! Thanks for the advice. And I agree, I'll be doing the same! I'll also being looking into a MBX, cheers!
Da, it takes very much patience to renovate something as it should be done, not just by filling holes with bondo (or even worse spray foam, the new fashion), therefore you must have enough motivation, time, a place to do it, some "connections".. =) You do, apparently, so good for you. Don't worry if you drill a little in the underlying panel when picking spots, even if you drill through is not a big deal that weld can't cope with.. =) It might get your job waaay faster. When you repait holes on a single skin, if you can, clamp on the back a piece of copper and magically the hole will fill itself.. Cheers anyway, I'm enjoying the progress, although I thought BMW's don't rust so much.. Cheers, go on, it's too late to stop! 😉
Iv been an E30 lover since they came out iv had a few of them now..and I'm restoring the M3 E30..
Are you still in Spain??
Your patience and your detail is admirable. I wish i could restore more old cars..
my godness
Hey mate, just having a look at this haven’t seen too much but I’d recommend taking the sunroof tray off. Bmw sell them new but there is a bit of glue between the two that doesnt stop rust. You can take them off the skin if you are gentle. But it’s tricky. Going to this much effort I recommend it. Also invest in a quick strip disk and a rotary polisher. Strips quick on low speed without warping.
I love watching the BMW videos I hope more are coming soon
Many more to come Joey!
Just wanted to share amateur to amateur, I'm also building a 1987 325is and have it on a rotisserie. I wanted to prevent the kind of damage to the bumper shock mounts you repaired in this episode so I built plates that fit into the mount area with holes to bolt it to the mount, welded some 2x2 square tube to that plate and then mounted all that to the bumper shock mount. I have pictures I can share but no worries if you're good with what you have. Sorry for the unsolicited input, I'm sure you get enough of it everyday. Love the videos.
Wouldn't it be a lot easier on your back if you did all the quarter panel work on a work bench or something? My back was hurting watching you lol... keep up the good work
It would indeed Craig! I need to get some sort of bench on wheel I can wheel into the spray booth. I needed the extraction because it was such a messy job. Cheers!
Great work buddy. Only thing is wire wheeling that is a waste of time. The e.coating will handle the rest
Good choice, NOVOL is one of the top and came from my country. From Poland with love.
Cheers Piotr!
I really enjoyed watching this. Your lack of gloves around al that cut metal made me a bit apprehensive, though :)
i don't know how you find parts to complete this project. i'm having a heck of a time with a simple restoration on a 1991 vert
Stop putting yourself down with the welding. You'll get there. :) use some old metal from the donar car to practice on : 😀
Cheers Andrew! I should really!
As a German i can only say; du habs denn deutsche gründlichkeit, which means that you have the German thoroughness when it comes to detail. Good job and i hope to see more episodes in the near future. Danke schön!
Danke, trader! Many, many more to come!
seeing you cut everything out so much is like torture.... but i guess you gotta trust the process right ... looking forward to the final results... mad props to the level of effort !!! madness.
I dont think e30s were galvanised from factory, so it might be even better as factory :p
That's a good point!
Interesting that it apparently adheres better to a more polished surface than a blasted surface. You'd think it would get more bite on a blasted surface.
What a crazy amount of work. Gotta be the most intense resto on this model ever done!
That's what I thought Tommy... Oh well, I definitely did a better job overall with that process. Cheers!
I cannot wait for this lovely BMW to be fully restored.
Wow. Building an E30 from scratch. I like it!
Mmm… orange. Should be good!
Cheers, Mark!
Search for a spot weld cutter. It's a drill bit which is basically a small hole saw but with a sprung loaded centre point. You can easily cut the spot weld off the top sheet without cutting into the second.
You could even use it on the one where you are keeping the top piece because you are just left with small holes in the location of the spot welds which you can use to plug weld the new piece in.
Anything I'd say has already been said reading comments, keep up the good work and thank you 👍
Thanks Laurence, I still appreciate the comment as they help with the algorithm
5:32 You learn how to extract the destroyed piece without destroying the car you're restoring by learning how to extract the good piece from the car you're using for parts.
What a massive massive job it has become... realistically the car is not worth it... but... it is your car, that is all that matters... compliments!!!
Just a question, why are you bothering priming the car stripping the quarter pannel paint, when you going to dip and e-coat the car?
Maybe you should think about buying a plasma cutter... It will save you a lot of time
I have one. I have no idea why I didn't think to use it. Thanks for the reminder!
Very much taken
by your work sense...
Thanks for sharing with us...
IT HAS BEEN DIFFICULT TO CONTACT YOU VIA MAIL AND MY PATREON PAYMENT DIDN'T GET THROUGH FOR SOME REASON...
Sa 2.5 means the metal should be near white in appearance. So basically a heavy shot blasted surface.
I dont know how you manage it, if I had to spend 10 hours on that tiny plate I would lose my mind. Compliments to you!
If you're going to drill out the welds, just drill out the welds...
When this project is complete how about an E34 M5 restoration?
May just be me but who the hell restores an old bmw that ain't worth nothing like this crazy seems like a waste of time and money so many cars that would be worth doing
I would not dip that, perfectly fine as it is. Dipping cars is bad, acid leaches out for years after
Everything great, but why you didn`t remove sunroof frame ?
I'm doing same thing well I paid to have it all built for me by bmp conversion
Great to see you using the bodywork primer. I am restoring a classic mini and the shell is protected with the same stuff. It protects it way longer than the 6 months in the specs. Easy to sand and weld with compared with the epoxy.
Good to know Conor! And good luck with the Mini.
your OCD makes the videos a joy to watch. Any of us mortals wouldn’t want to go this far and it’s what makes it worth watching. We want to see how a project could be done when you have the patience and passion for it and you want to do it right even as an amateur. I’m sure pros would do it in a quarter of the time but where’s the fun is that? 🤣😜
P.s welcome home if ive not said that to you🙏🙏🤣🤣👍👍👏👏
haha cheers Darren!
What a massive job done.
Cheers Ozzy!
👌👌👍👍
Hello, what is that mini jigsaw you used to remove the plate from the resto chassis?
i got a little nauseous imagining how long this all took. amazing work! can’t wait for the next one
I think an air hammer with a chisel attachment would have served you well here. Great video!
I'd love to see all the parts you've restored put back together into a car that looks like it just rolled off the assembly line.
That's the plan! :D
Безумный труд, успехов тебе, сколько у тебя BMW я не могу сосчитать?
Inspiring!! Can’t wait to see the final product!!
Hi. If I am looking correct this is the cheaper version of the finger sander isnt it? Are you happy with it or would you prefer a more powerful version from a name brand company. Thanks
I'm happy with it so far... I only have a 200L compressor so its all still hobby level stuff.
@@RestoreIt thanks for answering. I am going to restore a e30 m3. It's the dream car of my dad and I am going to build it with him. But I am going to do much of this work on my own too. Because I want, I do this every day, I love it probably just like you and it would be to expensive if I would give it to a company