Chevrolet Truck Hesitation Problem Fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2017
- My 1995 Chevrolet Silverado truck had a hesitation problem, which we were able to fix by replacing some parts. My Chevrolet truck would idle fine and passed the Emissions test, and there were no check engine lights, but there was hesitation when I stepped on the gas pedal. The engine would bog down or almost stalled out instead of going faster. To fix this hesitation problem with it on my Chevrolet truck, we replaced the fuel pump, the catalytic converter, and the distributor. This is a very tricky problem to diagnose, and there could be a number of causes, which I go over in the video. It could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter, which would cost $20 to fix. Or it could be a very expensive fix it like a catalytic converter or a fuel pump. If you're Chevrolet truck has the same problem, and it doesn't accelerate like you think it should, look at the things I point out in this video, and replacing one of them will fix the problem. My Chevrolet Silverado has a 5.7 L 350 V-8 engine, but if you had a V6 engine, the same problems could happen.
Here is where to order a repair manual to help you fix the common problems on your truck:
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I just did a complete top end performance rebuild to my 94 raising compression, intake, cam, aluminium heads, true full duel exhaust, headers, fuel system upgrades, and a custom tuned Jet chip. I love these old trucks. It’s great to see other guys restoring and resurrecting them.
Let us know how long the bottom end holds up to that raised compression.
got a 91 k2500 with sm465 454 tbi gmt400 with c6p option, higher gvwr package
@@Kdog307 nice, I have upgraded to a built 383 stroker and a 670 carb
@@anthonyskorner4511 it didn’t lol
I just built a 5.7 350 small block for my truck was not able to put any goodies on it just a stock motor but I absolutely love my truck and will never get rid of it. 89 Chevy and I even have the color matched Chevy jacket that was an option when you bought a new Chevy truck in the 80s
TBI was from '87 to '95. I have 1 of each. My '95 runs fantastic but my '87 needed help. The previous owner did ZERO preventive maintenance. I bought the non-working truck from his widow. The engine looked like a chocolate milkshake inside as did the rear end. I pressure tested the cooling system and it held 20 PSI for 1/2 an hour and the needle never moved. I had already pulled the valve covers and found a worn through exhaust rocker arm on #8 cylinder. I cleaned the engine out with Brake clean and put in new rockers and 5 quarts of oil and a new oil filter. Still no start. Removed the original factory fuel filter and it was plugged solid. Replaced the fuel filter and she started right up. I did replace the TPS also and it made a big difference. My fuel pump also went out and I replaced it so now she runs decent. Thanks for the video and take care.
You’re welcome. These are great old trucks.
The first TBI came out in 89 because the 88 model year was still carbureted
@@terrybrown797 You are 110% incorrect. I have a 1987 Chevy R10 that has TBI FROM THE FACTORY! 1986 was the last year for Pick up trucks to have a carburetor. Do some research and educate yourself. You must be a snowflake. You sternly believe in things that are not so. I was an auto mechanic for more than 20 years. I have rebuilt HUNDREDS of carburetors, including feedback Quadrajets, which happen to be my specialty. I know the difference between a carburetor and TBI fuel injection. Apparently you don't.
I appreciate all the hard work and effort you went to. I bet you learned a lot.
Thanks! I did.
Just fixed my grandpas 1998 k2500 that was sitting there for 10 years and it’s a beauty a lot of work done but worth it. I love your truck and the color these trucks are truly a classic 💯
That’s great. With a little bit of attention, these trucks can run forever.
Hey since you've Been thru ur truck, I've got a 97 chevy w/350 vortec, has spider injection, and it has a erratic miss or cutting out I can't get fixed. We've put in new fuel pump, new plugs n wires, distributor, dif spider injection, new head gaskets, new maff sensor , air tube senser, new ignition switch. Stills runs crappy.
@@danieldriscol4484Have you tried the fuel filter or EGR valve? Fuel filter an EGR valve are next in parts cannon for my 93 haha. After New Idle air control valve, NGK spark plugs. Im still at it trying get it to stop bogging down under load and stalling🥴
I changed the throttle position sensor, the plugs, distributor cap and wires, injectors were fine, changed the fuel filter. Checked the fuel pressure and it was fine but after none of these fixes worked I decided to change the fuel pump. That was the problem. The pressure was fine when I had it in park or even in drive but I’m assuming when I would drive it the pressure would drop. Hope my comment helps anyone save the headache I went through.
What was your symptoms? I have chnaged just about everything past few months. Idek what to do anymore. Worried about pulling this darn pump out cause nothing worked for me so far. Seems like when the truck is cold it runs a little better
@@Drayelam21I’m in the same boat I have a 1990 gmc sierra with a 350 in it I replaced the fuel pump spark plugs spark plug wires distributor cap and even fuel pump I drive the truck and with any kind of acceleration it bogs and turns off
@@mr.hellboat6354try the idle air control and the egr valve.
What was the fuel pressure? Mine is around 50-52 psi under load. Wondering if it’s my problem
Oh my God it is almost like I wrote this. Except I haven't changed the pump I've changed everything else under the damn hood. I put a new pump in it back last July. I'm going to feel like a jackass if that's the problem
Awesome truck man , thanks for that rattling noise tip I’ve been searching for months on how to remedy that …
follow the nois bud
my 1994 has just turned 245.048 miles ! this is one helluva great truck- thanks CHEVY !!!! BTW- IT ALWAYS RUNS COOL AS A CUCUMBER AROUND 120-140* NO OIL LEAKS OR SMOKING
It was designed to run forever with little bit of maintenance.
Mine just turned 201. She had the hesitation and then that turned in to a has fuel and cranks but no start issue. Anyone know why?
my 91 carfaxed at over 450,000 at 455xxx when the odometer quit 12 years ago
Hesitation can be caused by the ISC, the pump, the EGR, the TPS, the fuel filter, the MAF sensor, clogged injectors, or bad plugs.
Great info. Thank ya'!
Just got another 99 Tahoe it had sat for a few months when accelerating it hesitates a bit not major could it need just a tune up??
I will look into the egr valve being stuck. But the cat is brand new. installed November of last year. Today same thing happened today. Runs great great for 15 minutes and then starts to run really bad. I hardly made it home it was acting up so bad. The engine was really shaking. I thought computers were suppose to make things better. Can't the ecm see the engine isn't running right?
altlandf I was told I need a catalytic converter that’s what popped up on the reader as well..
@@altlandf ecm can only see the problem it can't fix anything on it's own
Thank you for posting this video..very informative.
I just picked one up for 1500 it's very clean besides rusty quarter panels it hesitates a little these are all minor costing fixes though that will give me something to do on my day off work today.Thanks!
That’s a good deal. Once you get everything sorted out, these are really great trucks.
My 92 has no power. I didn't know the issue and I suspected the fuel pump. Someone told me it wasn't but this just confirms it. Thanks for the video
You’re welcome.
Thank you for uploading this 🙏🏽
You’re welcome.
You mentioned the distributor cap not sitting level and half not running right. Sounds like the cap screws were not all engaged. it is tight back there.
I have a 98 Silverado with over 257K miles and STILL going !
Mine works great after we replaced the distributor. I think the old cap was on there crooked.
The oem distributor base is plastic so its very common for the base to crack and then your cap does not do its job very well
Your distributer was higher than it is now? That means it wasnt fully seated. Im surprised you even had oil pressure
I have a 1990 Silverado Extended Cab with a 5.7 T.B.I engine. She has been going strong for 30 years ! However, I will be up grading the engine, drive train and rear end. You're correct, they DON'T make em' like this anymore.
Still running: "Chevy Tough" ! 👍👊
These are great trucks, and reasonably cheap to keep running, especially when compared with buying a brand new one.
I was messing with the egr valve and it seems to move freely. I had order a vacuum switch because I broke it. The cat is brand new as the entire exhaust system. Thank you for your help.
You’re welcome
Went down this same road with my 96 Tahoe. Replaced fuel pump, every sensor, ECM, ignition, and all new distributor. Ended being a leaky fuel injection so replaced it with latest AC Delco model. Runs like a top now but just had to replace my cats because they burned up in the process.
Just for note. The old poppet style injectors were notorious for going out so for people chasing a gremlin and replacing every sensor I would recommend pulling the intake and looking there. But if you haven't replace the injection at this point it's must. The new style is much better.
broooo I have changed all those parts besides the cat so far! I feel youuuu, it's like a combo of all of it that don't throw any lights
My chevy express (2005) pulls back like the brake is on while my foot is on the gas. I'm afraid it will be something like the differential? Or maybe wheel barrings?
This was a great video I'm going to replace all of these things thanks for sharing
Mines been hesitating for years but I just ignore it but kinda wanna get it fixed. I think I might replace the TPS since I’ve already replaced the fuel pump and filter. Was also thinking about doing the distributor as well. Thanks for the great videos
You’re welcome. On this truck I’m pretty sure the problem was the catalytic converter. I think the plates had gotten loose, so sometimes they would block the exhaust flow, and other times they would bounce around and the exhaust would be able to get out. After I put a new catalytic converter in it, it runs great.
You ever change the EGR valve, my 91 gmc needed when it gave me problems with idling and shutting off in reverse
Yes. I made this video about it. In my case, it didn’t make much difference because the problem was something else. You can also take off the EGR valve and cleaned it out if it’s not working rather than buying a new one. How To Replace The EGR Valve On A GM 350 V8 Engine th-cam.com/video/3DwDBIRrtso/w-d-xo.html
HOLY FAWK!!!! Iam in the exact same boat and this video might have saved what left of my hair
Thanks. I hope one of these things helps fix your problem.
Geez i wish mine looked like yours. Excellent example of a clean OBS.
Thanks
Hey I’ve got a 1988 GMC Sierra with 5.7 the original engine has been remanufactured to gm spec’s. I’ve added upgraded air filter stainless shorty headers new new value covers and installed dual exhaust with flowmaster super 10. Been running great the last few weeks it’s been skipping on accelerations and when climb feels sluggish. Checked the plugs some needed to be recalibrated and were a little dark . Cleaned them recalibrated reinstalled. Runs better but there is still hesitation. Any ideas what I should check?
A sticking EGR valve will cause rough idle and part throttle hesitation too.
Could it also cause it to die when i start it up
Yep. I just replaced that today. Tons more power before it sputtered and hesitated a lot
M.A.P. sensor?
My 94 sbc 350 has 322k original miles on the motor. Pretty sure it’s internal seals causing my issues but it runs kinda rough at idle but drives fine minus the occasional trans slip, which I’ve narrowed down to shift solenoids. Any suggestions? lol I’ve done the plugs n wires, timing job was done around 270k miles, new egr, cleaned throttle body, new fuel filter, new tps, lots of other work the motor just has never been rebuilt. It burns about a quart of oil every 800 miles or so with no obviously bad leaks externally. In park it idles at 450ish Rpms and in drive/reverse around 200? According to the Tach of course.
My 95 is nowhere near that good of shape. But seeing one, I sure would like to buy another 95 in mint shape. Such a beautiful body style
Me too. Mine has 439000 miles
Me 2 I got a 95 GMC Sierra 1500 4 wheel drive
I have a 96 shortbed single cab with fresh paint no rust
My 94 suburbans paint is cooked from the heat. Would love to get it repainted someday. 183k miles.
Thanks for that video it helped me a lot, I think I know what is wrong with my 98 chevy now , but the video was verry helpful thanks.
You’re welcome. It can be really tricky to diagnose problems like this.
@@hoohoohoblin yeah I here ya,thanks
My 94 blazer is doing this right now I'm sure my lifters are going to but this was one big thing I couldn't figure out to save my life
1993, 5.7l, C1500. Starting this last Fall (2022), upon heat soak, the engine/transmission would intermittently drop out. This also happened occasionally when hitting a pothole or crossing a bridge expansion joint. So, over the mild Winter whenever weather was nice enough, I started a detailed inspection of the wiring... I cut out and refreshed three highly corroded ground lugs in addition to repairing sketchy-looking terminal end wiring at a couple of sensors. Also, the "convenience center" terminal block along with the fuel pump relay grounds were disassembled, cleaned, greased with dielectric paste, and reassembled.
However, none of my findings appeared to be a true smoking gun and the engine/transmission drop-out remained. I did have the truck up on jack stands so I could inspect and replace the taillight wire ground in the rear. The fuel pump ground *_should_* and was okay since I recently dropped the gas tank to refresh the brake and fuel lines.
While the truck was up on the jack stands, I traced the transmission control wiring harness looking for pinches, problems, and perforations. Then, I reached up to check the harness connector plug into the transmission itself. The plug was out about half it's completely seated distance. Well, a connector barely seated would certainly be a good suspect for an intermittent heat soak and jarring roadway hiccup problem...
Being thirty years old, there is no longer any click left in the plastic harness connector. I drilled a couple of holes in the metal guard protecting the harness connector point from brush and safety-wired the terminal in-place on the transmission.
So far, the drop-out has not made itself noticed again.
Check that harness connector at the transmission! It's a quick and cheap thing to verify!
Excellent work! Sometimes these things are really hard to track down.
yeah, I have a 99 suburban... same deal except fuel pump - it's sitting in my basement. It never took a crap on me while driving but ran like shite for a good year or two until I replaced cat, sparks and plugs, dist cap and fuel injection spider which was a huge pain in the butt ... honestly, just replacing cat alone helped tremendously
I think the catalytic converter was the main problem on my truck as well.
I have a problem starting my truck when its hot out side. When it is cold out it starts fine. I know older chevys are the other way around and don't like the cold but mine is backwards.
Boy, that truck looks nice. My 03 is rusted to death. I refuse to wash it. I might wash off something I need.
Yes. Any truck from that era can’t go through the car wash because half of the paint will come come off.
So is my 98 but I do wash it
Use warm water and dab lightly with cotton balls to dry, I'm convinced the paint is the only thing holding the body together on my 90', 96', and 99' !
😅😅😅😅
From what I heard, these trucks have galvanized steel body panels.
Thank you for the information. Mine is doing that. I will fix all that.
You’re welcome.
My 94 has 303K+ miles, and has this hesitation, sometimes bad enough to stall the engine. Thanks for the hints on where to look.
You’re welcome. I hope you figured it out. Sometimes it can be a combination of things.
Slight hesitation at 45-50 mph similar to it feeling like a misfire can be caused by the transmission trying to shift into overdrive. The feel of it trying to shift from 3rd to 4th unsuccessfully feels like a miss and can lead you to look in an entirely wrong direction
Barbara Todd this is my problem... how’d you fix
Adjust the TV cable if you’ve got one
To adjust TV cable mostly common on your 700 R4 Transmission is to locate the end of the TV cable on top of the intake manifold towards the driver side rear of your intake manifold where the cable comes into the bracket there is a half circle button on the side when you press that button in it releases the caller on the TV cable with the button pressed push the colour of the TV cable back towards the firewall release button and press accelerator to Full Throttle that's all you need to do to set your TV cable. Unless you are installing an aftermarket TV cable then you will have to set your length before setting TV cable. Hope this helps somebody I had to do it on my 89 Chevy Silverado C1500 5.7 L V8
I just had my heads done on my 94 silverado and the truck hasn't been right since. I replaced the maf sensor, ignition module and o2 sensor. Then the codes read egr valve and selonoid. When I went to replace the selonoid I noticed the mechanic had hooked the vacuum line up to the vent. I hooked it up right and the truck ran great that day but went back to hesitating the next day.
Thanks so much living the nightmare right now😁
You’re welcome. It seems like a simple problem, but it can be really hard to diagnose. I replaced almost everything before the truck ran right. I think the problem was the catalytic converter.
I'm having that problem as well. 225k miles. My theory is it's the fuel filter but if it still hesitant I will try other stuff before tackling the pump.
After 2 fuel pumps I got sick of mine and cut a whole in the bed and added a hinge
That works.
🇺🇸 ZACHARY WRIGHT 2024 🇺🇸
Been there done that 😂🤌👌
Scale 1-10 how easy is doing to that job . I need a new Gas float
Lol I had 6 sn95 mustangs, did 2 pumps, same trick for that car lol
I have a 94. It's running Rich with a skip. And going down the road when it's skipping it has a faint popping noise out the exhaust. Any ideas
That's sweet rig you have bro
Thanks. I like it.
Best video yet...for chevy trucks..my 1990 gmc k1500 runs so much better now thnx...
You’re welcome. I’m glad I could help.
Honestly my problem with my truck was the rotor in the distributor cap.! Was eight up and then she started running great.! Nice truck I love the Z71
Thanks. These are great trucks. I replaced the distributor and cap And rotor along with everything else. I know the old distributor seemed like it was bent, and the rotor wasn’t going around in a perfect circle.
What it was with my vortec 5.7 when i swapped out the old 305, was the spark plugs, wires, and distributor. I replaced the distributor with a billet one and replaced the plugs and wires. The symptoms were around 45-55 mph in 4th overdrive and tcc lockup it would chug and shutter and cut out and i initially thought it was a bad torque converter but apon testing the coil and inspecting it i determined ut was bad. It had pitting and heat damage and a spark created from it would not jump a big enough gap.
I'm having the same problems I notice the coil looks pretty old I also cant move my egr valve diaphragm so will replace those two and see I have a 90 caprice with tbi 305
When you decided to change the catalytic converter did it smell like rotten eggs? I keep reading about it smelling like rotten eggs if it goes bad
I have a 1993 c1500 chevy. And I replaced almost everything on my truck and its cheaper to fix it rather then to get a new pickup lol. Unfortunately my body is rusting =( but I. Also planning to fix that too. True what you said....its a real pickup 👍🏻
When my engine blew up everyone told me to just buy a new vehicle but once you have driven an old Chevy truck there is nothing else you are willing to drive. 1989 Chevy Silverado C1500 single cab long bed 5.7 L 350. old school Chevy for life
who's got $50'ooo for a new truck
Fuel filter every 1000 gallons ~ 14K miles. Fuel pump every 80K. TPS 50-80K, Clean harness ground at thermostat bolt, clean or replace EGR valve every 80K. Check torque on TBI, make sure no vacuum leaks including EGR hose. Tune-up interval highly variable, prob 50K max.
Good info. Thanks.
Foolish parts replacer comment
@@Watchout1010 4 year veteran GM design engineering and retired drag racer.
@@latrogeniwile58 have seen fuel pumps,egr valves, sensors last over 200,000 miles without creating any issues-IAC motors get gummed up,egr valves get carbon buildup-I dont replace parts due to recommended intervals-transmissions now have lifetime fluid-nope.
@@latrogeniwile58 if I owned a dealership-recommend maintenance for profit-aint that the game?
I have a question for you. Although I have not used the paperclip thing in the box under the dash to see which code the 'service engine soon' light says, my service engine soon light kept coming on and off so, using my limited skills, I replaced the oxygen sensor (which looked good and probably didn't need to be replaced) and that didn't help. Next, I replaced the EGR valve (which looked good and probably didn't need to be replaced) and the service engine soon light keeps coming on but doesn't stay on. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all. I am almost positive it isn't the brake switch so now I am at a loss. Do I replace the EGR solenoid and hope for the best or what? Any suggestions? I am not a mechanic by any stretch but not afraid to tackle some of these things. I can waste a few dollars here and there and still be ahead of the game if I compare to taking it to a shop somewhere and get charged $100 an hour or more. I am open to any ideas you might have.
This is a really tough one. Even if you take it to a mechanic, they might not be able to figure it out either. I generally start with the cheapest and most logical parts first and go forward. On my truck, I think the problem was the catalytic converter plates had broken loose and were sometimes obstructing the exhaust flow. Could also have been the fuel pump being weak.
Did u ever figure out the problem?
Hi there I have a 89 Chevy Silverado C1500 the original 5.0 blew up so I built a new 5.7 and put it in now I have hesitation when I accelerate from a dead stop it is almost like it stumbles sometimes it stalls out the question I have is the ECM from the 5.0 the same programming for the 5.7 any help with this would be greatly appreciated I have been out of work for 9 months and just got it running
I have a 95 gmc sierra 2500 7.4 it hesitate when i step on the gas.i changed the MAP Sensor. the IAC valve. I cleaned up the EGR. & still can't find the problem. Any suggestions? I "ll appreciate it thanks
It could be the muffler or catalytic converter starting to rust out inside, obstructing exhaust flow. Or a weak furl pump or clogged fuel injectors . On my truck, I think The catalytic converter was the problem. The plates came loose inside and were blocking exhaust flow.
I replaced my MAP sensor just today. Took on a test drive and it seemed to fix my hesitation problem. My truck would hesitate when trying to keep a steady 25 or steady 35 mph. I will give feedback in about a week to see if it's truly fixed.
Let me know please I have a 95 C1500. Started to hesitate today and died when I came to a stop sign
Still hesitating. Unfortunately it did not fix my issue
I got a half cab just bought it 1995 to z71 love it
+Edwin out here Antras They are great trucks!
I have a 93 Chevrolet 2500 that blew a fuse to the windshield wipers and when I changed the fuse it will not start . The fuel pump will not come on any clues for helping me
is the brain box for the 96 behind the glove also?
Before changing a bunch of parts, get a fuel pressure gage and screw it on the Schrader valve in the stainless steel fuel rail. Turn the key on (don't start engine) you should hear the fuel pump come on, helps to remove the fuel cap to hear better. You should see the gage go to 60 pounds. Turn the key off and see if it stays there (if it leks down change the fuel pressure regulator)
some dont have that valve
Mine is an 89 the first year for the TBI there are no Schrader valve fuel lines go directly into the throttle body so in order to check fuel pressure you have to take off the return line on the throttle body have to get an old-school fuel pressure tester that screws into the throttle body and into the fuel return line to check fuel pressure if you are checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump you can do that where the fuel filter is located just simply remove the fuel filter and hook up your fuel pressure rental tool that you can get at any local auto parts
There are no fuel rails on these older trucks
Tbi motors stock will only make 8 to 13psi of fuel pressure. Also these tbi systems are designed to bleed off pressure fairly quickly. So that's normal. Figured I would put some accurate info on this old thread.
I’ve got 1996 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 4x4 I’m running into a few issues like your but I’m not doing a parts canon just shoot and hope for it to work
In my case I’m pretty sure it was the catalytic converter plates, which had come loose and sometimes they were obstructing the exhaust, and other times that would rattle into position to let the exhaust flow freely. I would’ve replaced that first if me or my mechanic had figured it out.
Question, what can it be when my truck sits overnight and or about 4 hours and it starts up, just to die.. but once it's warm, it runs great and doesn't turn off like it would when no warm enough.
I don’t know. I need to figure that out and make a video about it. Mine does that and I just let it run for a minute before I drive it.
What does the catalytic convertor sound like? My truck sounds like a roller coaster going up. Constant clanking
It sounded like this. GM Truck Transmission Rattles In Drive When Stopped Fix th-cam.com/video/gVL2A1iYRLQ/w-d-xo.html
I installed new battery and alternator battery won't hold charge turns off on the freeway can your house need to get to work by Monday and need answers
It's amazing how expensive a repair can be without a few steps of diagnostic effort. I hate to say this but most qualified mechanics would have found that diagnosis within an hour, the lack of codes notwithstanding. It takes 5 minutes to measure exhaust backpressure, and the story was typical, almost diagnostic. It would have been easy to exclude the fuel pump and fuel filter with pressure testing under load at the Schraeder valve, and even bad fuel injectors would have shown fuel trim clues. I agree with you about these trucks. They have a classic, timeless design and they age surprisingly well if rust doesn't take them first.
You are right about that! I threw a lot of parts at it before I took it to a mechanic.
I have a 2000 GMC Savana 3500 with a bogging down problem. She runs great but every once in a while chugs like shes choking and I can barely move and almost get stranded. I put her in park, shut her off then start her up and shes fine for a bit. Can't figure it out. I've done plugs, wires, fuel filter, replaced leaky hoses, etc
spelunkerd I'm surprised hoohoohoblin hasn't bought a odb1 Bluetooth module to be able to watch stats or run data logging.
Gus Ricciuti check your IAC valve it's probably sticking. You can take it out and clean it with some throttle body cleaner before buying a new one. Also test your connecters with a multimeter or simply add dielectric grease to it and connect it back up and see how it runs. Make sure your throttle plates aren't gunked up so clean them. Check if your EGR still has suction if not replace it. Check your TPS as well. And last but not least your O2 sensor. I'm almost positive it's your IAC valve though! Disconnect your TPS and see how it drives.. If it drives better it's your IAC or TPS.. TPS is being affected by your IAC because your ECM is misreading air flow!
Gus Ricciuti sorry just seen your year and model.. Try cleaning or replacing your MAF sensor.
i need suggestions, my 91 chevy has trouble with dying when going slower like under 15 maybe.. i changed the map sensor and need suggestions on what to do next .
Could be clogged fuel filter, stuck EGR valve, or dirty furl injectors. These things are sometimes hard to figure out.
@@hoohoohoblin true I've replaced everything you listed even plugs and wires... Turns out it was my fuel pump going out.
How did you cut your catalytic converters? I’m replacing my maf sensor tmmrw and if that’s not the issue then ima have to eliminate my catalytic converter.
I had somebody replace my catalytic converter. I still have to pass emissions in California with it. I think the problem was that it was all clogged up and old. It passes emissions and runs fine now.
I love your truck man
Me too. Thanks.
adding a cam shaft will give you the power you need and you can still pass smog.
What kind ?
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Roland Carlos Instablaster :)
@Harvey Declan i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Harvey Declan it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out!
could o2 sensors be my problem, all of them are bad on my 1998 Chevy Silverado. i cleared codes and it runs fine
That could definitely be a problem. The system needs to know what’s in the exhaust so I can set the mixture.
I have a 89 s10 pickup with a 2.5 liter engine and a manual transmission. Problem is it runs fine for about 15 to 20 minutes then it want to buck and carry on hesitate. Today when you put the clutch in it tried to die. The only parts I didn't install were the tps and map sensor. The fuel pump hanger assembly and tank are brand new. The brand new pump went bad in less than 30 days. I don't know what is causing it to run the way it does. The person i purchased truck from also replaced fuel pump. Why does my truck hate fuel pumps?
It could be the EGR valve getting stuck, or it could be the plates in the catalytic converter have broken loose and sometimes obstruct exhaust flow.
Great vid good info. .great truck. .
Thanks.
My 95 has a lifter tapping in it right now🤦🏼♀️ Hopefully getting her fixed tomorrow
Mine also
This same thing happened to me it ended up being my fuel pump . I had people tell me it was a blown head gasket to the timing belt/ chain . They didn't know shit lol
I think that's my problem
I have a sneaky suspicion that is my problem as well. I have a 1996 Chevy truck with 525,000 miles on it. I am going to check into that first - and yes I have changed it out before many years ago.
Having issues with my 1995 as well I accelerate and it takes time I have to take my foot off the pedal then press it and then it accelerates my abs light is on and also my gas marker doesn't read could that be a issue any help
The ABS light wouldn’t have anything to do with it. The good thing about the ABS on these trucks is that if the light is on, the brakes will still work, it’s just the anti-lock brake part that doesn’t work, so you can safely drive it with the light on. A lot of people just let it stay on forever because the wheel sensors are so sensitive. Not sure what the hesitation problem could be, but it would probably be something I mentioned in the video. As simple as these trucks look, there are a lot of little parts that could be causing the problem.
Very nice truck. I have 1995 Z71 also. Bought it new. 228,000. I’ve had the same issues you describe plus others. I love this truck. Just had it repainted. Everything works on this truck. One of chevys better looking trucks. My question is what size tires do you have on that thing? Really like the level stance of it. Also, what exactly did you replace/repair concerning the steering? My steering has been requiring increasingly more effort to turn.
I had the pittman arms replaced to fix the steering problems. Your power steering pump might be the problem. Definitely make sure it has enough fluid in it, and maybe siphon the old fluid out and put some new in and see if that helps. Here is a video I made about the tires I’m running. 265 75 Tires On A Chevrolet Silverado Truck th-cam.com/video/vpzE2AwR2VI/w-d-xo.html
hoohoohoblin
Thank you for the information and tips on the steering. Such a cool truck you have there.
Just got 2000 2500 2x2 6.0. It runs inconsistent. Either it runs really good or it hesitates on acceleration for a 3 or 4 seconds to several minutes. Changed plugs and wires, (ran excellent for a few hours, started the random hesitation again) dosen't seem to have vacuum leak. I only checked with some carb cleaner & starting fluid (i know very dangerous route to go)
Codes are system to lean bank 1 & sometimes throws bank 2. (P0171, P0174) cheep OBD reader. Any suggestions?
My truck is the previous generation, so I don’t have experience with that particular model. It could be that the ECU computer has gotten bad. The codes are definitely a clue. I’m not sure how they fuel injection is managed on that truck, but that’s what I would look at first.
Thanks for the video man, what about shaking while under light throttle and rough idle when in gear on the brake
That’s a tough one to diagnose, and it could be a number of things. Sometimes the EGR valve gets stuck open and it will do that. That’s an easy thing to takeoff and clean. You can usually reuse the gasket, so it doesn’t cost you any money.
@@hoohoohoblin alright I really appreciate it man!
I had a weird hesitation AND Misfire too. 1997 GMC Suburban K1500. It would hiccup at all speeds. Ran several tests, didnt find anything. So we began an intense process: changed, spark plugs, wires and cap and rotor= still hesitated. Changed EGR valve=still hesitated. Checked all vacuum lines, no dice. Cleaned any valves or connections to crank case, nothing. Changed fuel filter, nada. Changed the old spider injector to the upgraded one with the wires at the tips. That helped, but still had hiccups. Changed battery when it died. It ended up being the distributor. The gear teeth at the bottom had worn down. Had to replace the whole thing and install it wrong by it being advanced by one tooth in order for it to work at 15 degrees. It took months but the result was all that new stuff.
My experience was very much the same. Sometimes you have to fire up the parts cannon and just keep replacing things until something fixes the problem. But now I have a lot of new parts on the engine. On my truck I think it was a clogged catalytic converter that sometimes let air through and sometimes didn’t.
I have a similar hiccup. I’m so frustrated.
My truck has a new fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, and ignition control module. I put all that in. The truck was surging. The new fuel pump fixed that, but it still cuts out at 2000-3000 rpms. The only thing I can think of now is replacing the distributor. Or maybe it is the EGR, MAP sensor, vacuum leak, or throttle position sensor.
My 1998 Silverado is doing the hesitation thing again and I fear it's the fuel pump again. I had one put in about 50,000 miles ago and it cost me nearly $1,000. I'll try the things you mentioned but I'm thinking these symptoms are the same as they were before.
I have a 1993 Chevy and as I was trying to step on the gas it wouldn’t accelerate it would jump and the truck felt shaky so you know what it might be ?
It could be a lot of things. These problems are really hard to diagnose. It could be an EGR valve stuck open, or a throttle position sensor, or maybe even the ECU computer that controls the engine.
95 Suburban with 265k, facing this issue now, we'll see how it goes, thanks for the tips.
Good luck. There's so much it could be. Even something as simple as a vacuum leak in/or bad evaporator canister can cause this problem.
@@sonsofthunder915 I'm thinking I'll start with fresh plugs and a new fuel filter, maybe fuel pump.. I found I'm choking out on an incline and especially at above 2k rpms, it'll fire like a shotgun out the exhaust and go nowhere.
I'll let you know how I make out. Truck is worth saving. Lol
On the truck in the video, I took it to a mechanic and he said that it needed a new fuel pump, and that the catalytic converter was clogged. The plates in the catalytic converter had shaken loose and gotten sideways. In your case, you might want to check the catalytic converter and the muffler. It could be an exhaust obstruction problem
If you really suspect a fully clogged cat unbolt the upstream o2 sensor and go for a ride to see if the extra breathing helps
Will it still pass smog with this problem
And yes, check the EGR valve for sticking
I have the same truck and engine and it idles really rough only when in drive fluctuating between about 400 and 600 rpms. It has 102000 miles and has been sitting in a garage for a while, I've tried seafoaming the gas tank but no difference. Also replaced front vacuum tube that goes from front of throttle body to head and the valve that sits in the head. Drives fine but any recommendation on the idle issue?
Could be dirty fuel injectors or a dirty EGR valve.
hoohoohoblin thanks, I'll try that next
Thanks for the videos! I can start the truck easy if it has been sitting but if I stop and go on a errand it it's hard top start. Plus I can smell gas when it is running(running rich maybe).ECM is bad. This is a 96 gmc with 5.7 v8. I have 248000 miles. Any advice would be great. Finally, don't know if it is from running rich but the truck shakes when idle. I put into park and the shaking stops.
These trucks are tricky. It could be the EGR valve is dirty. On mine one thing I didn’t mention in the video because I didn’t know about it yet was that it had an intake manifold leak. That’s pretty common on these trucks, so maybe some extra air is getting in there. Also, on my truck I think the main problem was that the Catalytic converter had gone bad and the plates in it were rattling around and sometimes obstructing exhaust flow.
@@hoohoohoblin rats nest in exhaust ?
I have a 95 Chevy Tahoe that's doing the same problem like I'll be driving and it will act like I have no power so I'm just wondering will it still pass smog
It might. On my truck, it was sometimes fine, and other times it ran really rough, but when I took it to get emissions tested, it passed.
Given that it's mostly run by a computer, I know that it's possible to spend thousands while a mechanic replaces parts the computer tells him are suspect. Seldom does it help, and not for long if it does. Better to take the time like in this video and replace what you can by yourself. I would like to find a Silverado specialist who can get a feel for what needs to be replaced and has the shop and tools to do it. Not just chase vague computer read outs. I think it's time to change my CC, that's where the rattling is probably coming from. I couldn't find it. Thanks for great upload.
You’re welcome. I understand how frustrating this stuff is. I wish I knew someone who was a wizard and could point to the exact problem. I ended up replacing a whole bunch of parts, and then taking it to a local mechanic who made a bunch of random guesses as well and replaced a bunch of parts. It is running right now though. It better, because almost everything is new.
I have a 1988 Chevrolet Silverado 350 4x4 pickup I have 3 vacuum ports on my carburetor 2 of them have vacuum but the one on the right doesn't can you tell me maybe why I'm not gettin vacuum on the right port
I don’t know. Mine is fuel injected, so I don’t have one I can look at. If you follow the hoses, you should be able to find the problem.
@@hoohoohoblin I made a mistake it's fuel injection
Thanks. Great video
You’re welcome
my 1992 chevy p/u, the EGR would open too soon from idle with the truck in gear causing the stumble. pulled and plugged the vacuum hose to the EGR valve and the truck runs great, will soon be replacing the electric/vacuum control that is near the EGR valve.
I had a similar problem on my Safari van, with the EGR valve getting stuck open because it had carbon buildup. I cleaned it, and the hesitation problem stopped.
Mine dose the same it used to do it just around 50-60 mph it had lag but now it’s even when I try to take off it lags like it’s chokes & like you said at times it wants to die
I have a 93 silverado 5.7 ran fine until I used spray injector cleaner now it hesitate when I take off I already replaced egr map sensor throttle position sensor and the idle air sensor didn't solve the problem any ideas?
I have a 94 K1500. Had the rattle. Replaced cats and it ran good for a while. A year later moved 6000 miles away and drove with most of our stuff in a trailer. Was fine for about 4000 miles into the trip. Then it started again. Come to find out the throttle body had a hairline fracture in it and was pulling too much air through it. Ecu couldn't compensate for it. Check engine light never came on. Btw...my 94 is the same color blue and silver.
That must have been a tough one to diagnose. I wonder if you could JB Weld the crack.
Great video and so helpful
Caus my 99 suburban is sputtering
And I've changed the crank censor,changed my spark plugs and wires and even changed my distributor cap And it rode smoothe for about 2months and started back ridding kinda bad then my Coil pack went out
And now it's back running good but still sputtering when accelerating
So I'm gonna try some of these things sounds like mainly some fuel filters and fuel pumps probably is what needing to be changed
Good luck trying to figure it out. It’s really frustrating. Sometimes it’s more than one thing. On mine, I think the problem was that the catalytic converter plates had come loose, so sometimes there was an exhaust restriction. After I replaced it, everything worked fine.
Mine shakes some times at 80 then it will stop if i hit gas and sometimes it doesnt do it at all any idea new u joints trans always been serviced
I don’t know. It could be a lot of things. The truck in the video had almost everything replaced, but I’m pretty sure the Catalytic converter was the problem. I think the plates in it had broken loose, and sometimes they obstructed exhaust flow. I had an Astro van with a clogged EGR valve, and it would act funny sometimes as well.
Was it shaking or jerking bad when you accelerate? Recently my 1994 Chevy Silverado c/k1500 5.7 with a 350 started to shake bad when driving. It only happens around 3 gear and up. It’s hesitates and then also jerks really bad when I press down the gas pedal a certain bit. Specially around 40mph and up. At around 50-55 I’m kicking into over drive and this is where the problem is the worst. Cause at about 50 I can only press the pedal down so much to get more speed without the truck shaking real bad. If I accelerate easy and slow it doesn’t happen.
It could be the EGR valve getting stuck open. I’ve seen that happen on these motors before I
Good for another 100k!
Definitely!
Beautiful truck
Now that’s a beauty!
appreciate it cause my truck doing the same thing im bout to replace the fuel pump
Good luck. I hope that fixes it. These things can be really tricky to diagnose.
Chevrolet #1 in my book
+Drive Chevy's You are correct, sir!
Drive Chevy's black smoke coming out the tail pipe
2001 Toyota Tundra here. Never had to replace any of this crap! Rust free truck in Tennessee!
saysbadman have you had it since new ?
Good. Video thank you helpful.
My 98 k1500 only runs sluggish when cold start after I drive around the corner to gas Station and start back up it has take off like normal any idea what that can be?????
I’m not sure. Mine started doing that recently, and I need to figure out why. It runs great except for the first minute.
great tips, thanks
You’re welcome.
miss my 97 Sierra, I had hesitation issues, bought a 2003 Saturn ion, kept the truck. But my dad who owned it traded it towards a Nissan ultima, only got $500. God kicking my ass after that.
Sometimes it’s hard to figure these problems out. Somebody got a good deal on your old truck.
Laughing and crying with you, damn!!