This tutorial series has been extremely helpful for me. Somehow I stumbled on your channel in the exact right moment. A few weeks ago I looked around for good CAD software, saw your first video and started out with OnShape. I needed to make an air duct adapter for my AC, and just noticed you also had a fresh released video on ducts. Yesterday I was investigating how to make screws for a keyboard button project and today this video showed up. Your tutorial videos somehow hit my active use-cases with pin-point precision.
I've explored various modeling programs over the years, Rhino, Maya, Fusion 360, Blender, Tinkercad and now OnShape. This one seems to be the most intuitive at least the way you explain it. This serves as a nice library for my up coming projects I have in mind and I cannot wait to dive in. I know these videos are a year old now but still very valuable. Thank you for taking the time to put these together for all of us. While you move quickly through I'm grapsing the concepts. I still reserve Blender for more organic design and character design but for functional parts I hated the precision tools for Blender as I always seemed to have odd geometry. Thanks for this amazing series and cannot wait to put this into practice.
I swear, your tutorials are among the most straightforward and easy to follow I've found around! Just subscribed to your patreon! keep them comming!, I'm using a different app(s) and I'm at a beginner level, but have been able to learn so much, me and my inner child say thanks!
Very nice video, Michael! When using gears, always set all your gears that need to mesh to the same Modulus (M) and pressure angle (typically 20 degrees for Modulus gears) when designing. The modulus and the number of teeth define the pitch diameter of your gear : an metric gear M1 with 40 teeth has a pitch diameter of 40mm. For some diameters and axle distances you'll find that you can't make it work, because you simply cannot have for example 37,5 teeth : whole numbers only 38 or 37. To get around this problem you have to shift the profile , as we do in industry. . Shifting is only for involute profiles only, of course, like the ones in your video. Profile shifting is used a lot for small gears ( 10 teeth and below ) because the teeth have less or no undercut, but the diameter of the gear is then also bigger. This is also true for DPI gears.
Love the video, but to ensure equal wear of each tooth on each gear, the number of teeth on contacting gears should be co-prime, so that with every rotation, new pair of gears work with each other.
Does using co prime have an impact on accuracy in exchange for the durability? I'm thinking co primes would be good for say a waterwheel but would they be any good for a clock?
@@LostprophetPL thanks, I though so but if you google co prime ratios it doesn't really give you a clear answer. Now I'm wondering if you use three gears can you correct...
@@blaskotron the number of teeth on cooperating gears should ensure that each tooth on each gear makes contact with different tooth every rotation. That ensures equal wear and stable operation.
Great info! I use OnShape whenever the design I want to make is too tricky for my FreeCad skills. So far though, I've never used a feature script. For threads, I've just done sweep along a helix, and boolean operations, this method looks like it'll save lots of time and effort compared with my usual approach.
I'm very impressed with you and your videos! Great explanations, straight to the point, relevant skills demonstrated, clear and detailed instruction, no time wasted. Just excellent! Before finding your content, I just wasn't satisfied with most of what I found online and usually need bits same pieces of many videos to get the point across to my students. So, I felt compelled to make the videos myself to give to my students. Now, I just send them to you! Thank you so much and keep up the great work - it is very much appreciated!
Just dropping in to say that I love these videos and I'm learning a bunch! I have no specific requests for future videos as I don't always know what I'm missing or what I don't know, but I definitely could just watch you tackle any sort of problem. It's very enlightening to see your thought process when coming up with solutions to these problems
Gears is the only thing I've had a problem with on my 3D cad of choice Design Spark Mechanical. This will actually be very helpful and I can export the file as STEP and maintain the geometries. Up to now even screws everything has been faster and easier on DSM we shall see where the series goes. I look forward to it.
I really enjoy this series. I do have a question that maybe we can address in a future video. Scenerio: you have a fully 3D printed project with a number of individual parts all put together in a single tab, fully "assembled". Now you are needing to export each part or groups of parts in the correct orientation for printing. Let's say you have a bolt designed such as in this video but it is upside down in the main design. Is there a concise way to go through the list of parts as a whole and correct or put into another tab as they would be sent to the printer? This way if you were sharing on printables or the like once tested, you can do an export and sent to the site without having to fiddle about in the slicer. Thanks for teaching me a new tool to utilize in my 3D printing Journey!
You can still just export the individual part studio parts. You can have them in one assembly and just import them from the different part studios. That way the orientation of the part studios can be set to printer orientation and the assembly can be something else entirely.
That's my preferred method too. Separation of concerns is a good thing! Let the slicer handle the details pertaining to each individual printer / filament etc. It gets confusing if models downloaded from the internet already have printing tolerances built in and you have a different printer or worse, the designer is compensating for over extrusion by shrinking the model...
On the spur gear script you changed it diametral pitch, it may have an option to use gear module instead, that way you give the gear a set module and change the number of teeth to set the size. Two gears with the same module will mesh. Edit: just went back and looked and they do have that option.
Smashing job as always. Learning someting new every time I watch one of your tutorials. @7:21, should that not be reducing the sketch diameter to 5.5 as it's the bolt?
@@7h5ffc5s He actually reduced the diameter of the bolt by .5mm (.25 from the outer face, which as he says in the video is effectively a .25mm radius reduction) and increased the diameter of the hole in the nut by .5mm. Which is to say Colin is correct: the description of the change to the sketch which would produce the same result is wrong. In the video he suggests changing the diameter of the bolt cylinder to 6.5mm, which would make it larger rather than smaller. You actually would want to change that diameter to 5.5mm and change the nut hole diameter to 6.5mm.
I’m new to 3D printing so just looking at your videos. I noticed in this one at 7.05 min that you changed the shaft Dia of the model by 0.25 mm smaller, to Dia 5.75 mm which was correct, but at 7.25 min then changed the drawing of the shaft Dia to be 0.25 mm bigger to Dia 6.5. That wasn’t correct so undoing that , your shaft Dia worked. I enjoy your videos as are easy to follow Cheers Shep6
I am working through your video tutorial to teach my students. We just finished gears and I thought this would be a fairly easy project to model in onshape that they could print out to keep. I was wrong. I wish you had instructions or a drawing with details to help with the design. If you do, could you please share. I do plan to print soon to see if I completed the model correctly, but some details of your video are hard to follow. TIA.
Hey! Great video! I’ve been loving your tutorials to learn on shape. I want to be able to make a 1/4-20 (which is 20 spins by inch) bolt, for a standard camera nut in my c920. That measure I think but I could be wrong is nether ANSI or ISO. I believe is UTS. Could I still make it with this method or I maybe need to install a different feature? Thanks for all your work!
Something I would think would be useful is how you would go about designing parts for your 3d printers. Like placing all the extrusions that make up the printer and designing between them. Like how would you go about desinging your all in one ender 3 case in on shape, or for whatever printer.
Great video, I have a question on using a spur gear and then creating a notched/nubbed track for the gear to ride on? How would a gear pattern across a horizontal plane work? Thanks!
7:30 Usually don't have an issue unless it's printed vs printed threads. Plastic vs metal usually works fine. Maybe a printer calibration issue? Seems unlikely though since you've made several videos on the subject. 🤷🏼♂️
For the assembly rather than using a fastened mate to attach a part to the origin, you can also right click on the part and select "fix" - This keeps your list of mates slightly cleaner.
Thanks for very helpful video. I'm wondering how I can make a similar locking together mechanism but on the flat faces of the extrusions not the ends and wondering if you have any tips?
Wouldn't the gears need clearance for 3D printing too? I always offset faces of one or both gears to add clearance between them so they can mate perfectly in real world.
Can you make a video about , how to make and animate a geniva drive mechanism with Onshape. How to make the gear ratios as the drive section rotates continuously and the driven section rotates in steps, how to animate that.
Great instructional. I work with fusion 360 quite a bit myself but am honestly no expert. What I really need to know is is there an email or someplace similar I might be able to ask you about a specific problem I'm stuck on with an Ender 3 pro?
12:38 how did you make the circles all equal and equidistant? figured it out. i drew a hexagon from the center of the gear and placed the circles on the side vertices.
Forget metric vs. standard: Can you make Acme machine threads with this? I need to make an adapter/spacer for a tire changer. It uses a very course Acme thread for speedy threading on/off but the included hardware is too thick to fit my wheels (over 1 inch diameter when my wheel bearings are 14mm). The thread must be obscure because I’m not finding much info for replicating it.
Of course. You just need the right script to make them. Or if you want to get technical, you can look up the specifications for an ACME thread and make your own using the basic operations from previous videos.
is there a way to create a reverse keyway in the gear center bore to make it D-shaped? for when the motor shaft has a flat spot instead of a raised key.
Now that you have talked about screws and threads how to create pocket screws to be able divide huge 3d prints into chunks and merge them without problem?
He has already covered things like trapped nuts and now threads, so just put those skills to use with pocket screws. It's simply an application of the techniques he has already demonstrated.
Did you have to do anything to make sure the sizes of your 3D printed parts actually matched non-printed parts (for example, 3D printed bolt with metal nut, and vice versa)? I would imagine that if your 3D printed parts actually end up a little larger or smaller than designed, they wouldn't work, and adjusting the clearances on the hole and shaft wouldn't be enough.
It depends really. For clearance holes, nut holders, etc. I just oversize by ~0.2mm, which is usually a fairly good value for my printer. For more complex parts like threads, you might need to do more experimentation
I used the Califlower model to test for common issues including shrinkage and over/under extrusion, then compensated for those in my slicer my scaling the model and using the horizontal expansion option. This allows me to get proper clearances now.
Trying to get the center point of holes to show up in assembly is terrible. is there a trick I'm missing? Especially on the threaded holes, it keeps trying to find a mate on the thread
You can hover the mouse over the surface you want and then hold the shift key. Mouse moves after that will only lock the mate to other points on that surface.
Love the video, Love the knowledge everything but mate your going super fast in a your explanations ngl and my gears aren't moving and I honestly don't know what to do...Help.
no matter what I do the gears wont move/turn, is this considered a "simulation" feature?? because all simulation features are pay only and I just remade my project like 3 times plus put it together over and over ....for hours.... (determined to learn how to do this) ... I watched this part on slow-mo several times, and looked up other videos with no change... why won't gears move...?
I don't understand why when you say gear by itself is just a non-rhotic r, but when you say spur gear it becomes geey. I couldn't find a setting on Goggle Translate that could handle this!
Rather than adjust the models, wouldn't changing to EXCLUDE, in the slicer,, be a better/easier way to adjust for the "too much material" condition of the threaded features? I was just wondering, because it should take care of these kind of fitment issues.
I would certainly try that. A properly calibrated printer should give dimensional accuracy close enough to fit the parts. I found that with scaling my parts slightly (to account for shrinkage) and using the horizontal expansion option, I was able to get holes that fit properly. It took a lot of trial and error, but it was worth it.
For those of us in the peanut gallery, could you please elaborate on what "changing to EXCLUDE" means? I tried to look it up, but didn't find anything online or in my slicer (PrusaSlicer).
@@michaelskoblin2315 Thanks. PrusaSlicer/Slic3r might not have anything like that. But knowing where the settings are in Cura is useful...I can check out the docs and confirm my guess (based on your info about what choices there are) about what it does.
Whoever's reading this, i pray that whatever you're going through gets better and whatever you're struggling with or worrying about is going to be fine and that everyone has a fantastic day! Amen
Why does that matter? You might be used to things like threads in Fusion 360 or others, but plenty of CAD programs simply have the basic shapes and operations and you build those up yourself. Is it really a big deal to install a publicly available add-on to get the special features you want? This sort of extensibility is really common in the open source world; just look at plugins for Cura to see how many useful features others have created to make the program even better. I don't even recommend you model threads in 3D prints anyway. Create a hole of approximately the correct size and use a tap to get what you want. Or use a threaded insert; it's way stronger than any plastic threads could ever be. And I would avoid making bolts or any other external threads in a 3D print; just all thread or an actual bolt. 3D printing has its strengths, but making strong and precise fasteners is not one of them. Use the 3D printer to make the custom parts and use standard fasteners everywhere else. But by all means, go with whatever tool you want. This is a tutorial series on using OnShape. If you don't like OnShape, there are plenty of other tutorials out there for other tools.
@@reverse_engineered I think you should write books instead of youtube comments. I'm not reading all of that. My point was simple: relying on features other CAD software consider baseline simple features to be implemented by unaudited, untrusted third parties that you have to take steps to go out of your way to install from, is NOT a fully featured CAD software. It is a stub of software with a plugin.
Is this content in anyway sponsored by OnShape? The content moves too fast and isn’t in depth enough for me to use as a tutorial but I’m not seeing anything that meets FCC regulations for this to be a sponsorship either. Something just feels off from your usual content and tutorials.
![[TH] 2024 PMGC League | Survival Stage วันที่ 1 | PUBG MOBILE Global Championship](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FVFT-PFwU80/mqdefault.jpg)
This whole OnShape series is amazing!!!! Thank you so much for all that you do for the community!
This tutorial series has been extremely helpful for me. Somehow I stumbled on your channel in the exact right moment. A few weeks ago I looked around for good CAD software, saw your first video and started out with OnShape. I needed to make an air duct adapter for my AC, and just noticed you also had a fresh released video on ducts. Yesterday I was investigating how to make screws for a keyboard button project and today this video showed up. Your tutorial videos somehow hit my active use-cases with pin-point precision.
Very interesting and informative. I learned some good stuff about Onshape, too. Right away I could see my way to making a demo design I need. Thanks!
I've explored various modeling programs over the years, Rhino, Maya, Fusion 360, Blender, Tinkercad and now OnShape. This one seems to be the most intuitive at least the way you explain it. This serves as a nice library for my up coming projects I have in mind and I cannot wait to dive in. I know these videos are a year old now but still very valuable. Thank you for taking the time to put these together for all of us. While you move quickly through I'm grapsing the concepts. I still reserve Blender for more organic design and character design but for functional parts I hated the precision tools for Blender as I always seemed to have odd geometry. Thanks for this amazing series and cannot wait to put this into practice.
I swear, your tutorials are among the most straightforward and easy to follow I've found around! Just subscribed to your patreon! keep them comming!, I'm using a different app(s) and I'm at a beginner level, but have been able to learn so much, me and my inner child say thanks!
Thank you for fulfilling my request! Now I can make herringbone gears.
Fantastic, Michael! Thanks a bunch!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very nice video, Michael! When using gears, always set all your gears that need to mesh to the same Modulus (M) and pressure angle (typically 20 degrees for Modulus gears) when designing. The modulus and the number of teeth define the pitch diameter of your gear : an metric gear M1 with 40 teeth has a pitch diameter of 40mm. For some diameters and axle distances you'll find that you can't make it work, because you simply cannot have for example 37,5 teeth : whole numbers only 38 or 37. To get around this problem you have to shift the profile , as we do in industry. . Shifting is only for involute profiles only, of course, like the ones in your video. Profile shifting is used a lot for small gears ( 10 teeth and below ) because the teeth have less or no undercut, but the diameter of the gear is then also bigger. This is also true for DPI gears.
🤓👆
Love the video, but to ensure equal wear of each tooth on each gear, the number of teeth on contacting gears should be co-prime, so that with every rotation, new pair of gears work with each other.
Does using co prime have an impact on accuracy in exchange for the durability? I'm thinking co primes would be good for say a waterwheel but would they be any good for a clock?
@@gazmant3438 wear would reduce the accuracy in my opinion. Never thought about it, just was taught to chose the number of teeth this way.
@@LostprophetPL thanks, I though so but if you google co prime ratios it doesn't really give you a clear answer. Now I'm wondering if you use three gears can you correct...
What does that Mean
@@blaskotron the number of teeth on cooperating gears should ensure that each tooth on each gear makes contact with different tooth every rotation. That ensures equal wear and stable operation.
Great info! I use OnShape whenever the design I want to make is too tricky for my FreeCad skills. So far though, I've never used a feature script. For threads, I've just done sweep along a helix, and boolean operations, this method looks like it'll save lots of time and effort compared with my usual approach.
I'm very impressed with you and your videos! Great explanations, straight to the point, relevant skills demonstrated, clear and detailed instruction, no time wasted. Just excellent! Before finding your content, I just wasn't satisfied with most of what I found online and usually need bits same pieces of many videos to get the point across to my students. So, I felt compelled to make the videos myself to give to my students. Now, I just send them to you! Thank you so much and keep up the great work - it is very much appreciated!
I really needed this particular tutorial right this second. Thanks
Just dropping in to say that I love these videos and I'm learning a bunch! I have no specific requests for future videos as I don't always know what I'm missing or what I don't know, but I definitely could just watch you tackle any sort of problem. It's very enlightening to see your thought process when coming up with solutions to these problems
Gears is the only thing I've had a problem with on my 3D cad of choice Design Spark Mechanical. This will actually be very helpful and I can export the file as STEP and maintain the geometries. Up to now even screws everything has been faster and easier on DSM we shall see where the series goes. I look forward to it.
As always ..... I learn something useful for future designs. :) Thank you for this series.
thank you dear for sharing
it help me a lot
many many love and respect from
Bangladesh
This video was a great help to a beginner like me. Thanks for all your work, I'm really getting a lot out of your content! 👍
Thread function works nice, and easy to use 👍👍
You really are AWESOME!!!! Thank you for this and all your videos.
Great series so far Mike, keep it up.
dude you're awesome. This video series is so helpful
Man you sure triggered the Fusion360 marketing team to go on a spending spree!
I'm loving the series I'm trying to figure out how to do a ball and socket joint
You're a legend
Terrific project and video. I’m looking forward to making this.
I really enjoy this series. I do have a question that maybe we can address in a future video.
Scenerio: you have a fully 3D printed project with a number of individual parts all put together in a single tab, fully "assembled". Now you are needing to export each part or groups of parts in the correct orientation for printing. Let's say you have a bolt designed such as in this video but it is upside down in the main design. Is there a concise way to go through the list of parts as a whole and correct or put into another tab as they would be sent to the printer?
This way if you were sharing on printables or the like once tested, you can do an export and sent to the site without having to fiddle about in the slicer.
Thanks for teaching me a new tool to utilize in my 3D printing Journey!
You can still just export the individual part studio parts. You can have them in one assembly and just import them from the different part studios. That way the orientation of the part studios can be set to printer orientation and the assembly can be something else entirely.
cura has an experimental feature 'slicing tolerance' now that might help with threads and avoiding the fudge factor.
That's my preferred method too. Separation of concerns is a good thing! Let the slicer handle the details pertaining to each individual printer / filament etc. It gets confusing if models downloaded from the internet already have printing tolerances built in and you have a different printer or worse, the designer is compensating for over extrusion by shrinking the model...
Just a BEAUTIFUL tutorial! Fantastic work!
On the spur gear script you changed it diametral pitch, it may have an option to use gear module instead, that way you give the gear a set module and change the number of teeth to set the size. Two gears with the same module will mesh.
Edit: just went back and looked and they do have that option.
Once again, you prove why educators are better than your average hobbyist at explaining complicated subjects to simple people like me. Thanks again.
Quite a useful tutorial. Thank you.
Superb Presentation Series. This is ideal for apparatus development.
I hope you go into shafts and sheaves also.
Great stuff - exactly what I "asked" for! :) Perfectly explained as always! Thank you!!!!
Quite enlightening. Thank you.
Smashing job as always. Learning someting new every time I watch one of your tutorials. @7:21, should that not be reducing the sketch diameter to 5.5 as it's the bolt?
@@7h5ffc5s He actually reduced the diameter of the bolt by .5mm (.25 from the outer face, which as he says in the video is effectively a .25mm radius reduction) and increased the diameter of the hole in the nut by .5mm. Which is to say Colin is correct: the description of the change to the sketch which would produce the same result is wrong. In the video he suggests changing the diameter of the bolt cylinder to 6.5mm, which would make it larger rather than smaller. You actually would want to change that diameter to 5.5mm and change the nut hole diameter to 6.5mm.
great Video! Thanks, you make so much thinks clear!
Such a helpful video, thanks!
At 12:40 you made 6 holes in the gear to lesson the material used.
How did you make all six holes so fast?!?!?
I love this - you're such a fantastic teacher. Can you share with us the list of FurtureScripts choices?
Great Series!! thanks so much for posting these!
Another quality tutorial. Thank you sir! Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
I’m new to 3D printing so just looking at your videos. I noticed in this one at 7.05 min that you changed the shaft Dia of the model by 0.25 mm smaller, to Dia 5.75 mm which was correct, but at 7.25 min then changed the drawing of the shaft Dia to be 0.25 mm bigger to Dia 6.5. That wasn’t correct so undoing that , your shaft Dia worked.
I enjoy your videos as are easy to follow
Cheers Shep6
I am working through your video tutorial to teach my students. We just finished gears and I thought this would be a fairly easy project to model in onshape that they could print out to keep. I was wrong. I wish you had instructions or a drawing with details to help with the design. If you do, could you please share. I do plan to print soon to see if I completed the model correctly, but some details of your video are hard to follow. TIA.
As always awesome stuff mate!
G'day, Mate.. (Was that a pun? .. with all the mating constraints and whatnot..)
I still have trouble using constraints. - Nevertheless your tutorial is awesome.
Thanks so much for these videos!!
Hey! Great video! I’ve been loving your tutorials to learn on shape. I want to be able to make a 1/4-20 (which is 20 spins by inch) bolt, for a standard camera nut in my c920. That measure I think but I could be wrong is nether ANSI or ISO. I believe is UTS. Could I still make it with this method or I maybe need to install a different feature? Thanks for all your work!
Is there an easy way to add an existing 2D personal logo to things I create in Onshape? Excellent Onshape tutorial series. Thank you
Awesome video!
Something I would think would be useful is how you would go about designing parts for your 3d printers. Like placing all the extrusions that make up the printer and designing between them. Like how would you go about desinging your all in one ender 3 case in on shape, or for whatever printer.
You covered the point of contact for the gears.... Can't see them mesh,. I think a window there would be nice
You probably have this planned out but how about box with hinged lid, box with a snap on lid, etc.
Great video, I have a question on using a spur gear and then creating a notched/nubbed track for the gear to ride on? How would a gear pattern across a horizontal plane work? Thanks!
7:30 Usually don't have an issue unless it's printed vs printed threads. Plastic vs metal usually works fine. Maybe a printer calibration issue? Seems unlikely though since you've made several videos on the subject. 🤷🏼♂️
For the assembly rather than using a fastened mate to attach a part to the origin, you can also right click on the part and select "fix" - This keeps your list of mates slightly cleaner.
Thanks for very helpful video.
I'm wondering how I can make a similar locking together mechanism but on the flat faces of the extrusions not the ends and wondering if you have any tips?
Liked your videos and wish you could do one on a fan blade or prop
Thank you
Wouldn't the gears need clearance for 3D printing too? I always offset faces of one or both gears to add clearance between them so they can mate perfectly in real world.
Thanks!
At t=12:41 is there a missing step for aligning the three circles so perfectly?
Thanks for this video ;-)
Can you make a video about , how to make and animate a geniva drive mechanism with Onshape.
How to make the gear ratios as the drive section rotates continuously and the driven section rotates in steps, how to animate that.
Done good
good videos. I'm just wondering if my printer is faulty... I already have 1mm clearance between inner and outr thread but they don't engage.
Can you make a video on how to make a torx head bolt?
The Feature script looks very similar to an OpenSCAD programming. I'm not quite that far into the video but is it similar?
Great instructional. I work with fusion 360 quite a bit myself but am honestly no expert. What I really need to know is is there an email or someplace similar I might be able to ask you about a specific problem I'm stuck on with an Ender 3 pro?
12:38 how did you make the circles all equal and equidistant?
figured it out. i drew a hexagon from the center of the gear and placed the circles on the side vertices.
Tip: find circular pattern in the menu. Make one first, then this will make a circle with as many copies as you like 😊
15:23, just wonder which keyboard or shortcut should I click to make it rotate, I don't know how to make it rotate😭Emergency!
Forget metric vs. standard: Can you make Acme machine threads with this?
I need to make an adapter/spacer for a tire changer. It uses a very course Acme thread for speedy threading on/off but the included hardware is too thick to fit my wheels (over 1 inch diameter when my wheel bearings are 14mm). The thread must be obscure because I’m not finding much info for replicating it.
Of course. You just need the right script to make them. Or if you want to get technical, you can look up the specifications for an ACME thread and make your own using the basic operations from previous videos.
is there a way to create a reverse keyway in the gear center bore to make it D-shaped? for when the motor shaft has a flat spot instead of a raised key.
How do you extrude just the outside of the bolt or just the inside?
Now that you have talked about screws and threads how to create pocket screws to be able divide huge 3d prints into chunks and merge them without problem?
He has already covered things like trapped nuts and now threads, so just put those skills to use with pocket screws. It's simply an application of the techniques he has already demonstrated.
@@reverse_engineered i could not find a way to orient a hole 30-45 degrees against the plane that's why I am asking
Is there an offset you should apply to gears as well?
Did you have to do anything to make sure the sizes of your 3D printed parts actually matched non-printed parts (for example, 3D printed bolt with metal nut, and vice versa)? I would imagine that if your 3D printed parts actually end up a little larger or smaller than designed, they wouldn't work, and adjusting the clearances on the hole and shaft wouldn't be enough.
It depends really. For clearance holes, nut holders, etc. I just oversize by ~0.2mm, which is usually a fairly good value for my printer. For more complex parts like threads, you might need to do more experimentation
I used the Califlower model to test for common issues including shrinkage and over/under extrusion, then compensated for those in my slicer my scaling the model and using the horizontal expansion option. This allows me to get proper clearances now.
What is the software you use for design?
Trying to get the center point of holes to show up in assembly is terrible. is there a trick I'm missing? Especially on the threaded holes, it keeps trying to find a mate on the thread
You can hover the mouse over the surface you want and then hold the shift key. Mouse moves after that will only lock the mate to other points on that surface.
@@TeachingTech holy crap that was amazingly easy now. Thank you!
Those gears look REALLLY rough fitting. how would one fix that?
Love the video, Love the knowledge everything but mate your going super fast in a your explanations ngl and my gears aren't moving and I honestly don't know what to do...Help.
no matter what I do the gears wont move/turn, is this considered a "simulation" feature?? because all simulation features are pay only and I just remade my project like 3 times plus put it together over and over ....for hours.... (determined to learn how to do this) ... I watched this part on slow-mo several times, and looked up other videos with no change... why won't gears move...?
how do you get url to paste in
tried right click no luck thanks
🔥💕👍
7:15 you say to increase the diameter to 6.5, but don't you mean reduce it to 5.5?
I don't understand why when you say gear by itself is just a non-rhotic r, but when you say spur gear it becomes geey. I couldn't find a setting on Goggle Translate that could handle this!
Rather than adjust the models, wouldn't changing to EXCLUDE, in the slicer,, be a better/easier way to adjust for the "too much material" condition of the threaded features? I was just wondering, because it should take care of these kind of fitment issues.
I would certainly try that. A properly calibrated printer should give dimensional accuracy close enough to fit the parts. I found that with scaling my parts slightly (to account for shrinkage) and using the horizontal expansion option, I was able to get holes that fit properly. It took a lot of trial and error, but it was worth it.
@@reverse_engineered Thanks for the reply. Keep up the good work with the videos.!
For those of us in the peanut gallery, could you please elaborate on what "changing to EXCLUDE" means? I tried to look it up, but didn't find anything online or in my slicer (PrusaSlicer).
@@harvey66616 Cura slicer, experimental settings, exclusive, middle, and inclusive. I'm not sure what the equivalent setting in your slicer is, sorry.
@@michaelskoblin2315 Thanks. PrusaSlicer/Slic3r might not have anything like that. But knowing where the settings are in Cura is useful...I can check out the docs and confirm my guess (based on your info about what choices there are) about what it does.
I hear spurgy, I know he’s saying spur gear.
Took me too long to realize you wear saying “spur gear” and not “spergie” which I thought was some weird slang lol
fuck yea
pt6 but tutorial 5? hmm
Whoever's reading this, i pray that whatever you're going through gets better and whatever you're struggling with or worrying about is going to be fine and that everyone has a fantastic day! Amen
hi
Tutoriall using fusion 360 pleace
Do You Speak Mono Tone in Daily Life?
The thought of needing an add on just to do proper thread modeling makes me not really into this tool
Why does that matter? You might be used to things like threads in Fusion 360 or others, but plenty of CAD programs simply have the basic shapes and operations and you build those up yourself. Is it really a big deal to install a publicly available add-on to get the special features you want? This sort of extensibility is really common in the open source world; just look at plugins for Cura to see how many useful features others have created to make the program even better.
I don't even recommend you model threads in 3D prints anyway. Create a hole of approximately the correct size and use a tap to get what you want. Or use a threaded insert; it's way stronger than any plastic threads could ever be. And I would avoid making bolts or any other external threads in a 3D print; just all thread or an actual bolt. 3D printing has its strengths, but making strong and precise fasteners is not one of them. Use the 3D printer to make the custom parts and use standard fasteners everywhere else.
But by all means, go with whatever tool you want. This is a tutorial series on using OnShape. If you don't like OnShape, there are plenty of other tutorials out there for other tools.
@@reverse_engineered I think you should write books instead of youtube comments. I'm not reading all of that. My point was simple: relying on features other CAD software consider baseline simple features to be implemented by unaudited, untrusted third parties that you have to take steps to go out of your way to install from, is NOT a fully featured CAD software. It is a stub of software with a plugin.
The most mono-toned voice on TH-cam. *Yawn... You lost me as you linearly march through instructions with the flavor of a paper bag. Sorry, mate.
Is this content in anyway sponsored by OnShape? The content moves too fast and isn’t in depth enough for me to use as a tutorial but I’m not seeing anything that meets FCC regulations for this to be a sponsorship either.
Something just feels off from your usual content and tutorials.
It's not sponsored. He explained in video #1 why he chose to go with OnShape in particular.
@cynic5581 : FCC? Have they done a "Big Brother" and taken over the role of the ACMA? 🥴
I have question when I finish revoluting two parts, what should I do to make one part totate on the other part🥲