wow, this is just what I have been looking for, so much easier than making an angle jig for back side of lathe, and then having to remove cross-slide nut for slide to move freely, I bet I have watched 20 or more videos about this, finally found yours this is GREAT and simple,,, thanks
That's pretty slick my man. I have a hobby combo mill/lathe with MT3 tapers in everything. I have bit of MT3 tooling but this would sure make it easy to add a bunch more.
Very creative method. I have a few extra tapers, I’ll build one of these and try it out. I also think I’ll color the taper with a sharpie and insert to see if there are any high spots. Might be a great fit right off the bat.
Very well thought out process. I lucked out with my lathe- it came with a taper attachment. It needs a good cleaning and de-rusting. If it's too far gone, now I know how to turn a taper without it!
eviltwinx Thanks Eviltwinx. Regardless of the method, I think taper turning can be a part of some very useful projects. I'm looking forward to exploring this further.
I just went through the process of making a MT adapter for my copy lathe. It was the first time I tried to use a taper attachment. Chinese lathe and attachment. Way too much slack in the system. After much fooling around I got my adapter made & it works well. 1"-8tpi to a 2" shoulder to the large end of a #4 MT, to a 4" long 3/4" shaft that is drilled and taped for a 1/2-13tpi draw bar. Started with a bar of 4130. You did it so much better than the way I went at it.
Great idea. I just picked up a new Atlas tabletop horizontal milling machine and this is exactly what I need to hold the gear-cutters for clock making. thanks for sharing.
I saw a video where the machinist used a dial indicator set to zero on the tailstock and when he moved it off center (in your case, your indicator showed zero a tossed the taper) he left his indicator on his tailstock in place so when he was done cutting his taper, he simply readjusted the tailstock to zero on the indicator. Pretty neat idea.
Nice project! Something to remeber for my workshop! 1 thing, please lubricate your bedways! The sound of the tailstock draging over it gave me goosebumbs
I own an old South Bend lathe and it baffles me how a taper attachment that originally cost 1/3 of the price of the lathe back when it was new, now costs three times as much.
In order for this to work, the taper blank has to be the exact same length as the tool, with the tailstock center being at the exact same location. Nearly impossible to do in practice. Your method will get close to the proper taper angle, but it's not as accurate as other methods.
I pop a female centre in the headstock and male centre in the tail (assuming the reference taper has a centre hole) then set the compoud to the known good taper.
Get a drift for removing items from the MT adapter. If you slip with that screwdriver it's gonna hurt. Other than that it was a great video. Very good work by hand on that 6" Craftsman lathe. You are a true MACHINIST!
Cool Video! I've never turned a morse. I'm doing one these days but that's her last name ... . Mine's Kennedy like the box lol. ;- ) Anyway, I've 'felt' tapers from tools that sometimes don't 'stick' well straight from the mfg Co. I felt no play and saw no indicator read of movement or wiggle. Just had to wrap OD taper with paper, insert and spin to clean just to get it to seat at all. I've ground quikie arbors on a spindex or 'whirly jig' for soft honed IDs to wedge on and give a cylindrical grind to .0005 or whatever. But wonder if the hard on hard or perfect ground finish had a bit to do with it when it came to morse tools? This has only happened a couple times in 35 years. Maybe were cheap imports, ground but but really there. Thanks anyway. Thumbs up.
ps. in frustration to really know if there were nicks or dings I even 'felt around it with an Arkansas stone and all was clean. No I don't polish this stuff with scotch bright like some do. ;- ) Thnx
Bison Workshop With this method the cut is made with the carriage so the compound doesn't move. The tailstock offset depends on the length of the work, so the work needs to be the same length as the tool. I chose 5 inches because that's likely to be as long as I will ever need and it gives enough space for the lathe dog.
Wow, been a year since I commented on the dp vise trick. I now use one regularly on my saw. Thanks very much again. Regarding your tool. Could you have instead, put a piece of stock in your chuck , faced it and center drilled it. Then put the tip of your dead center in the freshly center drilled hole to support the tip at the chuck instead of cutting the dead center? I'm no expert. Would that work? I need to turn some tapers. Thanks
Remember, the length of the tool has to be the same length as the work piece. So all my MT #1's start with a 5 inch piece of stock. But if you have enough travel in your cross slide, it's easier than offsetting the tailstock.
I'm surprised that the last comment was posted 4 years ago because this is a well done "Shop Practices" video. I'm more than happy to make that stat more current. Your voice seems to indicate that you were young by "Time In Grade" shop standards when you posted it but that fact only impresses me further. You currently have 737 "Likes" and 24 "Dislikes". What the hell there is to dislike about your video is beyond me? I'm going to chalk them up to being morons! The U.S.A was once a nation populated with an abundance of good creative stock like you. Besides being one of the founding Fathers .. Thomas Jefferson was an exceptional "WoodRight" ! Names like "Samuel Morse", "Henry Ford" (think SAE), "Thomas A. Edison" and my favorite in the "OoRah" department - "John (M2-.50Cal) Browning" are to name only a few great hands on, dirty with shop crud under their finger nails, shop guys! You are a microscopic minority (with purpose and skill) surrounded by an ever growing sea of mediocrity that posses neither! Where plastic crap is fastened together with ill fitting "snap together" design!! The only things that snap are your finger nails!!! God bless you for passing along your passions. S. Florida Chris
Sorry to be a prophet of doom here , but if you only drilled the holes for your pin I can guarantee that your set-up will be off. If you had rotated your sacrificial set-up 180 degs when you offset the tailstock, you would have got a different reading. Idea was good but try reaming instead, much better fit for the pin.
Just picked up the same model lathe, and got it turning tonight. Great having videos like this on TH-cam to help me get familiar with what I've got!
Thanks for watching.
That dp vise mounted on a piece of lumber for short stuff on the bandsaw is a great idea. Thanks
+Jeff Iscool Thanks for checking it out.
+RP Mechanics Was thinking the same thing. Thanks from me too.
wow, this is just what I have been looking for, so much easier than making an angle jig for back side of lathe, and then having to remove cross-slide nut for slide to move freely, I bet I have watched 20 or more videos about this, finally found yours this is GREAT and simple,,, thanks
+jbrunson1949 Thanks for taking a look.
This a nice little setup, added to my list of things to make.
Thanks for taking a look.
That's pretty slick my man. I have a hobby combo mill/lathe with MT3 tapers in everything. I have bit of MT3 tooling but this would sure make it easy to add a bunch more.
Really great video, explanations and shots gave good clarity, well done
+Gordon Agent Thanks for taking a look.
Very creative method. I have a few extra tapers, I’ll build one of these and try it out. I also think I’ll color the taper with a sharpie and insert to see if there are any high spots. Might be a great fit right off the bat.
Thanks and good luck.
Very well thought out process. I lucked out with my lathe- it came with a taper attachment. It needs a good cleaning and de-rusting. If it's too far gone, now I know how to turn a taper without it!
eviltwinx Thanks Eviltwinx. Regardless of the method, I think taper turning can be a part of some very useful projects. I'm looking forward to exploring this further.
I know Im kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good place to stream new tv shows online ?
@Wilder Logan flixportal :)
@Jonas Colton Thanks, signed up and it seems to work :) I really appreciate it !!
@Wilder Logan happy to help :)
I just went through the process of making a MT adapter for my copy lathe. It was the first time I tried to use a taper attachment. Chinese lathe and attachment. Way too much slack in the system. After much fooling around I got my adapter made & it works well. 1"-8tpi to a 2" shoulder to the large end of a #4 MT, to a 4" long 3/4" shaft that is drilled and taped for a 1/2-13tpi draw bar. Started with a bar of 4130. You did it so much better than the way I went at it.
As long as you get the results you want. I'm far from being a good machinist, I just fumble along and sometimes it turns out ok. Thanks.
Great idea. I just picked up a new Atlas tabletop horizontal milling machine and this is exactly what I need to hold the gear-cutters for clock making. thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching.
Excellent demonstration. Thanks.
Thanks for watching.
I saw a video where the machinist used a dial indicator set to zero on the tailstock and when he moved it off center (in your case, your indicator showed zero a tossed the taper) he left his indicator on his tailstock in place so when he was done cutting his taper, he simply readjusted the tailstock to zero on the indicator. Pretty neat idea.
That is a good idea.
Nice, and clear explanation. Good to see the old Atlas 6" (like mine) at work. Regards,
Thanks for taking a look.
Nice Job and well done. Personaly I look for old drillbits with morse taper at carboot sales or so, then cut them to the size I need.
Cheap and easy.
+Rob Gerrits Thanks a lot.
Nice project! Something to remeber for my workshop!
1 thing, please lubricate your bedways!
The sound of the tailstock draging over it gave me goosebumbs
I'll do that.
I love your techniques!! Great vid.......
jster1963 Hey Jster, I appreciate you taking a look. Thanks.
Good job sir!
Thanks!
I own an old South Bend lathe and it baffles me how a taper attachment that originally cost 1/3 of the price of the lathe back when it was new, now costs three times as much.
Tell me about it. Machine tools and accessories can be crazy high.
In order for this to work, the taper blank has to be the exact same length as the tool, with the tailstock center being at the exact same location. Nearly impossible to do in practice. Your method will get close to the proper taper angle, but it's not as accurate as other methods.
I pop a female centre in the headstock and male centre in the tail (assuming the reference taper has a centre hole) then set the compoud to the known good taper.
That will surely work if you have enough travel in your compound.
That is a pretty slick way to do it if you don't have a taper shoe. I didn't know you could kick the tailstock that far off center.
Thanks.
Get a drift for removing items from the MT adapter. If you slip with that screwdriver it's gonna hurt. Other than that it was a great video. Very good work by hand on that 6" Craftsman lathe. You are a true MACHINIST!
I'll keep that in mind. I appreciate the comment.
Thanks…Paul in Florida ❤
This is a great idea..I have been making BS #7 tapers with my cross slide...its been a pain to say the least
Thanks.
thanks I am about to make a 3 '" bullnose dead centre for my 10 inch atlas lathes tailstock --
Good luck!
Wonderful. But you have a tail stock offset. For those with fixed lateral tail stock they would have to use offset device
On wood lathes adjustable (offset) tail stocks are uncommon but not on machinist lathes. Wakodahatchee Chris
I need to make these for a couple chucks I have lying around. :-) Nice tips..
Thanks for watching.
Cool Video! I've never turned a morse. I'm doing one these days but that's her last name ... . Mine's Kennedy like the box lol. ;- ) Anyway, I've 'felt' tapers from tools that sometimes don't 'stick' well straight from the mfg Co. I felt no play and saw no indicator read of movement or wiggle. Just had to wrap OD taper with paper, insert and spin to clean just to get it to seat at all. I've ground quikie arbors on a spindex or 'whirly jig' for soft honed IDs to wedge on and give a cylindrical grind to .0005 or whatever. But wonder if the hard on hard or perfect ground finish had a bit to do with it when it came to morse tools? This has only happened a couple times in 35 years. Maybe were cheap imports, ground but but really there. Thanks anyway. Thumbs up.
ps. in frustration to really know if there were nicks or dings I even 'felt around it with an Arkansas stone and all was clean. No I don't polish this stuff with scotch bright like some do. ;- ) Thnx
Thanks for watching.
I like it! Easy enough even I could do it 😂
Thanks.
how do you find out where to set the conpound to get the right angle for the tapper you need?
Bison Workshop With this method the cut is made with the carriage so the compound doesn't move. The tailstock offset depends on the length of the work, so the work needs to be the same length as the tool. I chose 5 inches because that's likely to be as long as I will ever need and it gives enough space for the lathe dog.
Could you have center drilled the taper while it was still in the head stock, right after you faced it?
Yes, but then you have to think about the accuracy of the tailstock chuck.
Does a headstock collet require a draw bar? Newk from Kentucky
Yes they do.
Nice, Thanks man
Wow, been a year since I commented on the dp vise trick. I now use one regularly on my saw. Thanks very much again. Regarding your tool. Could you have instead, put a piece of stock in your chuck , faced it and center drilled it. Then put the tip of your dead center in the freshly center drilled hole to support the tip at the chuck instead of cutting the dead center? I'm no expert. Would that work? I need to turn some tapers. Thanks
I don't know, I would say give it a shot and see what works for you. Thanks.
Remember, the length of the tool has to be the same length as the work piece. So all my MT #1's start with a 5 inch piece of stock. But if you have enough travel in your cross slide, it's easier than offsetting the tailstock.
Very good.
I've got a 618 also
Not sure I understand how you are able to offset the tailstock ...???
The upper tailstock sets in a groove in the base and can slide forward and back and is adjusted with a screw on each side.
I'm surprised that the last comment was posted 4 years ago because this is a well done "Shop Practices" video. I'm more than happy to make that stat more current. Your voice seems to indicate that you were young by "Time In Grade" shop standards when you posted it but that fact only impresses me further. You currently have 737 "Likes" and 24 "Dislikes". What the hell there is to dislike about your video is beyond me? I'm going to chalk them up to being morons! The U.S.A was once a nation populated with an abundance of good creative stock like you. Besides being one of the founding Fathers .. Thomas Jefferson was an exceptional "WoodRight" ! Names like "Samuel Morse", "Henry Ford" (think SAE), "Thomas A. Edison" and my favorite in the "OoRah" department - "John (M2-.50Cal) Browning" are to name only a few great hands on, dirty with shop crud under their finger nails, shop guys! You are a microscopic minority (with purpose and skill) surrounded by an ever growing sea of mediocrity that posses neither! Where plastic crap is fastened together with ill fitting "snap together" design!! The only things that snap are your finger nails!!!
God bless you for passing along your passions.
S. Florida Chris
Thank you for your kind words.
I second these sentiments.
This is a great instructional video, especially for those of us who don't have full size tool makers lathes.
How about making an internal Morse Taper?
I would do it pretty much the same way and finish it with a MT2 reamer.
This is good common Sence engineering for all to learn from.
Thanks for taking a look.
Likes=500, now. Do you Loctite the 1/4" pin or just press it together?
You could, but I left mine as just a slide fit. The centers hold them together. Thanks for watching and the 500th.
Sorry to be a prophet of doom here , but if you only drilled the holes for your pin I can guarantee that your set-up will be off. If you had rotated your sacrificial set-up 180 degs when you offset the tailstock, you would have got a different reading. Idea was good but try reaming instead, much better fit for the pin.
time would be better spent making a adjustable live center for the tail stock that way you never have to move the tail stock to cut any taper . :)
good idea, that way you don't have to rezero the tailstock when you go back to non-tapered work.
Cool cool cool
I think you need a better lathe.
I have a bigger one.
Geez ur lathe makes alot of noise.
na
sei bravo ma non capisco la tua lingua peccato
Thank you.