truth be told, i was initially happy with my new one, but after 1 year and the first maintenance, it went to crap - at least in the winter time - it moves almost like it's locked. As a last resort i'll start spraying it with the brunox deo - if that doesn't yield results in the cold, then it's gonna be a manitou markhor. nice vid.
Glad you liked the video. During the maintenance, did you change the oil in the damper side? Maybe thicker oil or too much oil was put in it making the fork feel stiffer.
Ah, that is unfortunate. Check how much it will cost to service. If it is too expensive, It might be worth shopping on ebay for a used replacement fork.
@@buckbikespent4588 it is as I put a bbso2b 750w 48v middrive on and doing 28 to 32mph, hit a lump in the road and wasn't very nice. Sure once apart they can get sorted by someone who knows what they are doing!!!!!!!
I know its stupid. I actually extended mine to 140mm. I just removed that rubber damper below the rod ang put a 30mm spacer ang 40mm allen bolt. Works well but not recommended because of the stanchion diameter. Mine looks like daddy long legs lol
@@buckbikespent4588 its effective as hell. My sr suntour XCR's disposable lockout cartridge blew last month so i extended it again since its a dead fork and its currently 170mm of travel. Jumps and hard trails and its still holding up, i also did it to my mates and a year later still doing its job
Sir if I am not wrong , I think 109 ml oil should inject into the upper tube (drive/damper side ) rather than into the lower leg according to SRAM manual. Sir why did you inject only 10ml of oil in each lower leg. Was it just for extra lubrication only or it was mandatory .
Hey, thank you for your comment. I mentioned in the begging of the video that I'm not going to be servicing the damper side as I expect it does not need an oil change. Actually, on this fork you need to put 93ml of 5wt oil in the damper. I put a bit more oil in each lower just for extra lubrication. Maybe if you are picky about your rebound, don't put more than 5ml in the damper side lower.
There is no nee to use a mallet when you are actually hitting a piece of metal (worst that is sharp/straight..) because you will damage unecessary the mallet... short, snap hits with small, 500grams hammer would do the job. You are using anyway a tool to prvent damage to the part of piece...
Thank you for this video 🙏🏻.
You are so welcome!
truth be told, i was initially happy with my new one, but after 1 year and the first maintenance, it went to crap - at least in the winter time - it moves almost like it's locked. As a last resort i'll start spraying it with the brunox deo - if that doesn't yield results in the cold, then it's gonna be a manitou markhor. nice vid.
Glad you liked the video. During the maintenance, did you change the oil in the damper side? Maybe thicker oil or too much oil was put in it making the fork feel stiffer.
yeah these things are garbage. bought mine brand new too and it needs constant rebuilds to work even somewhat decently.
Mine are locked up and haven't got room to do anything or all the tools. May have to go to bike shop
Ah, that is unfortunate. Check how much it will cost to service. If it is too expensive, It might be worth shopping on ebay for a used replacement fork.
@@buckbikespent4588 it is as I put a bbso2b 750w 48v middrive on and doing 28 to 32mph, hit a lump in the road and wasn't very nice. Sure once apart they can get sorted by someone who knows what they are doing!!!!!!!
I know its stupid. I actually extended mine to 140mm. I just removed that rubber damper below the rod ang put a 30mm spacer ang 40mm allen bolt. Works well but not recommended because of the stanchion diameter.
Mine looks like daddy long legs lol
LOL, that sounds interesting, I should maybe try something like this :D
@@buckbikespent4588 its effective as hell. My sr suntour XCR's disposable lockout cartridge blew last month so i extended it again since its a dead fork and its currently 170mm of travel. Jumps and hard trails and its still holding up, i also did it to my mates and a year later still doing its job
Sir if I am not wrong , I think 109 ml oil should inject into the upper tube (drive/damper side ) rather than into the lower leg according to SRAM manual. Sir why did you inject only 10ml of oil in each lower leg. Was it just for extra lubrication only or it was mandatory .
Hey, thank you for your comment. I mentioned in the begging of the video that I'm not going to be servicing the damper side as I expect it does not need an oil change. Actually, on this fork you need to put 93ml of 5wt oil in the damper. I put a bit more oil in each lower just for extra lubrication. Maybe if you are picky about your rebound, don't put more than 5ml in the damper side lower.
@@buckbikespent4588 Thanks
Hello i have some old tora 302 would they be the same as these ?Thanks for the video .
Not sure, the procedure might be the same but you have to check the manual if the lowers need any oil or grease.
@@buckbikespent4588 Ive done it now the lock out works ,the forks seem stiffer .
Is the procedure almost the same for xc30 coil?
It should be, I think the only difference between xc30 and xc28 is the diameter of the stanchions.
@@buckbikespent4588 thank you!
@@charles_1523 the XC30 might have a different lock out mechanism, with a tube thingy and an inner spring.
There is no nee to use a mallet when you are actually hitting a piece of metal (worst that is sharp/straight..) because you will damage unecessary the mallet... short, snap hits with small, 500grams hammer would do the job. You are using anyway a tool to prvent damage to the part of piece...