Chris Bonington Everest Expedition 1982 - The Last Unclimbed Ridge (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- Chris Bonington's 1982 Expedition with Dick Renshaw, Pete Boardman, Joe Tasker, Adrian Gordon and Charlie Clarke. Reduced sound quality due to age of video tape, and also missing last five minutes where tape had degraded completely.
Thank you for this historical document
Thank you for uploading this. Shame the end is missing, but the book has that information anyway. Cheers!
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How they ever thought they could pull this off is totally beyond me. First: The wind, colder temperatures on this route is brutal Second: Digging snow holes, fixing roaps with no oxygen Third: the pinnacles are horrid at that alltude without oxygen. Fourth: no way make it over the pinnacles with fixing roaps without oxygen, with horrible cold temperatures at that alltude plus going on to the North ridge on to the summit over the 3 steps without roaps being fixed. I mean who in their right mind would actually believe this could be done. Plus their plan wasn't descending the north Col they planned to go back through the pinnacles with the roaps they fixed. No way, they didn't have oxygen to be able to live more than 2 day's. Hell one day they weren't even at the 2nd pinnacle and it was 9 pm. The only way the Japanese did it was they had a huge team with Sherpa fixing a shit ton of roaps.
It's not all that. I've done it twice.
They wanted to attempt the route in the purest style they could, no oxygen, no high altitude porters. This route may be possible in such a manner but to lose half the climbing team before the final summit attempt really didn't help (Dick Renshaw suffered a minor stroke and had to descend immediately, Chris Bonington having already decided to "drop back" to a supporting role only.) Peter Boardman was found in 1992 by a Japanese-Kazakh expedition "beyond the second pinnacle". Joe Tasker may have made it even further as some of his equipment was found between the second and third pinnacles.
With advances in all aspects of mountaineering including our knowledge of the effects of extreme high altitude, the importance of being extremely physically fit, I really believe this route is possible in the style they attempted in 1982. It makes me quite sad to think about how this route was completed. Basically the Sherpa's fixed the entire pinnacles section with fixed ropes and only then did the Japanese attempt the summit!
Special mention should go to Russell Brice and Harry Taylor as they successfully climbed the pinnacles in 1988 but were to exhausted to complete the route (the third and final pinnacle took them 14 hours to climb!)
I can highly recommend Chris Bonington's and Charles Clarke's book about this expedition "Everest - The Unclimbed Ridge".
Couldn't agree more particularly the no oxygen part-I have always had a suspicion that these were deaths caused by some medical miscalculation rather than a climbing accident.
@Objectivity Chris Bonington had ordered bottled oxygen, regulators and masks to be delivered to Advance Base camp so a bottle or two each of bottled oxygen could have saved the day! (Just carried in sack as a precaution only to be used where necessary!
@@jayc5148 You've done it twice! What, when and how please!
Was the ending intentional?
Woah!😮
“Just gaze at the huge terrifying face, there’s an immenseness of oppression…” ( video cuts to garble and warping)
Oh he's brilliant Sir Chris
He's frank about how chicken he was?
It’s like the guys new the night before they set off that they wasn’t coming back..I think the had that realisation moment of the danger in the task in hand...Rip
Agreed. There's something forlorn about their departure? Bonnington was frightfully scared but he didn't present alternatives as their leader but sacrificed them to the gods..
Yes! Reality set in and they were very very anxious! They really needed back up for this!
A whole generation of great British rock climbers wiped out by not really appreciating the problems associated with high altitude that we know now...the joy of hindsight
Poor Joe and Pete ...... gone way too soon.
A pity there were not more experienced and competent high altitude climbers on the team?
The Joe and Pete is actually visible on the photo 4:00
I wish they could magnify the tiny images of Pete and Joe on the 2nd Pinnacle col for us to see!
I wonder if they made it over the pinnacles??? Or did they fall???? So damn sad
in 1992 they (a Kazakh and Japanese Expedition) found the body of Peter Boardman at the base of the second pinnacle "Sitting Peacefully" but no sign of Joe Tasker, so perhaps Joe fell to his death or maybe Boardman was injured and stayed put while Joe went for help and then died somewhere else...until he is found its still quite a mystery sadly
@@thesketchydude1315 i just read the 1995 Japanese expedition report and they said that the body's of the 2 British body's were found buried in snow. It says 2 body's. And then i read that Joe's equipment or some equipment was found too.
@@Bella.216 I believe they found Tasker's axe. I think there was some reports of finding a second body but Bonington then confirmed that the second sighting of a body was also of Boardman, not Tasker. Could be wrong on that but that's my recollection of reading about it.
@@propjoe1060 Yes I did some research and talked with climbers who said that they did find Tasker equipment down in between the pinnacles on the ridge. One told me they believe that Tasker was probably buried in the snow. One thought Tasker may have fallen and that's why Pete just sat down and then died. No one takes that route so we may never know what happened. I just feel sorry that they died. That route is dangerous even with oxygen and they didn't use oxygen. Kinda like Mallory and Sandy Irvine, we find Mallory but no Irvine. Sandy was supposedly spotted but they haven't been able to find him.
@@thesketchydude1315 Can't help thinking they died of hypoxia!
I always wondered about this expedition, rumour has it that a lot of alcohol was consumed. Why no support team?
I think once Dick and Chris realized the pinnacles were extremely difficult. Chris admits it scared him doing the pinnacles. I think Joe and Pete was afraid of them as well but were probably afraid to admit it. Chris said the night before they were to leave camp 3 that both guys were tense. Pete's body looks like he just died of exhausted. I feel like they didn't have a support system, Chris said he couldn't make it up the ridge to see. Plus Chris was the only one left was Chris who was a climber. Sad
@@Bella.216 Agreed and I have always wondered why Chris didn't let Pete and Joe off the hook by at least suggesting the bottled oxygen as a precaution. Its fairly settled that they died of hypoxia, inter alia.
I don't think anyone was impaired by alcohol consumption at the decision making juncture. I feel that Pete and Joe were suffering from a sort of summit fever and Chris did nothing to provide sensible leadership!
With respect, the sensible thing to do when half the climbing team is missing, is to withdraw and reconfigure with 4 new climbers at a later date!
@@dianamincher6479 Agreed. Try again another time, with more climbers, six minimum? Perhaps two extra climbers could ascend the North Ridge and meet the others as they complete the pinnacles and be ready to support? Just thinking out loud...
Any idea how much is missing off the end?
The last 5 or 10 minutes or so I believe, no more than that
@@alphillips1286 will you upload it? or do you not have access to it?
I will always wonder what happened to them both...
@@lewistaylor2858 I'm afraid I don't have access to it, the tape had degraded completely unfortunately. I've searched high and low for the complete film, but in the absence of anyone else having it, I decided to upload what I did have.
@@alphillips1286 Thanks for the response, i'm glad you uploaded what you had.
04:05 mins Damn it... Poor guys !
Rip Pete and Joe. So young!
Iam not a big fan of Chris I think he knows the odds ,he always has death on his trips to Everest, an his career was boosted by others miss mishaps, he feels bad cause he sentenced to people to death an got his fame from it like all his other expedition, my opinion only .
Certainly Bonington knew the odds in the 1982 expedition so he withdrew! And he had very little imagination when it came to the possible plight of Pete and Joe!