Thanks for taking the time to explain the problem and provide several solutions - something every Brooks owner needs to know. I bought a second hand Dawes Galaxy in 1979 for 90 pounds from bike shop near Sloane Square and it came with a B17. In my ignorance, I over tensioned the saddle and tore the leather in the front - but have recently had it repaired back to good as new. I now appreciate what I have so much more now than I did then.
Thank you, I was just looking up the address for Brooks to have them repair my B17 saddle when I came across your video. Now, (20 minutes later) it's all fixed, using nuts and bolts I had lying around. Brilliant!
Got a B17 cheap. Convinced the tension bolt was stripped. This video showed me the potential to replace or repair. It just came down to knowing where to get a solid grip and turning the bolt in the correct direction. All is well. Thanks!
My bolt sheared on tour. Googled it and came across this video. Got an 8m bolt and nuts. Was back on the road in a jiffy! Thanks to this video. Cheers mate.
Brilliant video thank you so much for sharing. Just got back from a wild camp on my saddle only to discover the bolt came out of the fixed hole at front. Looks like it’s had a similar fix by a previous owner as I bought this b17 many many years ago and I was gutted when it fell apart. Thanks to you I’ve managed to put it all back together and hopefully I’ll have many many more years if the leather doesn’t give out 😅
Hello Anne, thank you so much for your comment. When i was doing the video I was thinking to myself no one would be interested, yet it has turned out to be quite a popular video with many people having the same issue with their saddle.
Thank you very much. Your video really helped to repair my saddle within fifteen minutes. Btw, I used an M10 Allen head screw. I had to file the head down a bit to fit in the nose, but then it was a piece of cake. That should last longer than an M8.
@@scrimperuk yes your idea is brilliant as it doesn't require much work but I simply happened to not have a screwed rod at hand and had to make do. Also, after all the videos of broken bolts I guessed that a larger diamtre might last longer.
Very helpful mate (as we say in Iowa). I snapped my B17 tension bolt a couple of days ago, and have had no success finding a replacement part so far. Even though I have about 7k miles on the saddle, I was unsuccessful in stretching the leather to provide enough space for 2 nuts. I intended to put one nut into the nose bracket, the other would be to turn against the rail bracket. I was successful using a socket head 8mm screw (with an allen head) and a single thin nut. It was a still a tight fit, but I was able to squeeze it in. It was then very easy to hold the nut with an open end wrench and turn the screw with an hex head wrench. Worked really well.
Thanks a lot - great video. And solution for a difficult problem. I’ve broken bolts on my Swift. The first was an reasonable easy replacement with the shorter 64mm replacement tensioner bolt. Now I have a 70mm and it’s impossible without special equipment. In Australia where I live, Brooks representation is not well organized and the bolts are very difficult to acquire. My last 2 came from UK and we’re over £50 landed in SYDNEY. Your simple replacement strategy is a godsend - thank you again.
Hi Rod, thanks for your comment. Anyone who has not tried to fit a replacement saddle bolt will not understand the need for this video. It looks like a simple job but my first Brooks bolt replacement took me hours and was so frustrating. So Glad you found the video useful.
Thankyou so much for that, I'm a maintenance guy and a friends saddle recently fell apart. I couldn't figure out how the hell to repair it until I saw your video!
Thanks for the comment Dan. So glad you found the video of some use. It makes it well worth the time doing the videos when I get comments such as yours.
Thanks for the idea! I'm out in China and there's no place that could do the repair even though the bolt was intact. So I managed to do a bodge job with your help! I'm back riding again!
I tried this myself, raided Dads bolt collection and bodged one in there and its fine... thanks for making the video feel a bit reassured it'll be ok now.
Great video. I'm on tour and don't have a hacksaw so I just used a m8x50mm bolt without cutting the head off, just put the bolt in backwards and threaded the two nuts on like you did. Working for now.
Mine keeps loosening of it's own accord but I was reluctant to take it apart before seeing how it all functions and your video has shown how it all goes together - vey handy, Thanks for sharing.
Finally got back to finish watching and, as always, found it very enjoyable to watch you solve a little problem. Thanks mate -I'm away to watch you painting your bike now!
Just watch you're video it was great I have had 3 bolts break now on my brook saddle in 3 years not happy but it's the best saddle I have had mind you. But I would say brooks need to look at the bolts must be inferior metal bolts
Thanks for the comment Dave, I have had several bolts break over the years but in fairness my saddles are up to 46 yrs old, how many other makes last this long and most makes you have to throw away if the break.
Great video and super solution to replacing the tensioning pin. My saddle is around 1 1/2 years old and had a broken pin. Found a replacement pin locally, but discovered how difficult it is to install it. Finally gave up trying to put the new pin in and followed the video suggestions using an 8 mm bolt after sawing off the head. I put a nyloc or locking nut on one end as suggested. Installation still not simple, as leather was pretty stiff, but I was finally successful. Doubt if I'd get the new tensioner in without sending it to a Brooks service store. Their website discusses the special equipment they have. Will see how things hold together after riding, but for now, many thanks!!
Thanks for the comment Gary. I have struggled several times fitting these bolts, it looks to be a simple task until you try to do it. I did the video in cqase it might help others with the problem and I am so glad that you found it useful. I am still riding the saddle repaired in the video and touch wood it is still fine.
You could make that bolt from another bolt by filing down the head to look like that bolt. Good video, and this seems to work. One guy was using an allen head bolt so that he could use an allen wrench to hold the bolt from the front.
Thank you for your comment Ringo. You could indeed use a normal bolt. The allen head is a very good idea and I understand that Brooks themselves do supply some saddles fitted with a bolt with such a head.
Thanks, great video, useful tips there. I hope your tractor was as comfy as ever once you put your saddle back on. Sorry couldn’t resist it with your accent - if it helps, I’m Welsh and you can reply with a sheep joke.
Thanks for your kind comment Mark. I am not a farmer but I do have a tractor but only a small Westwood garden tractor Lol. You can even see it in one of my videos. I can't think of any Welsh jokes ATM. Lol
Dear Scrimper U.K. I think ya got er! Hope she holds up for you. Never did have the nose bolts snap but have always owned the brooks pro. Racing saddles. Never had any trouble with them. The old brooks pro. Racing saddle that came with my5th px 10 peugeot did have problems. I used olive oil on it to recondition the leather and it got too soft. I was riding one day and the nose rivets let go all of a sudden I heard a ca chunk! Sounded like a paper cutter striking down. She bottomed out and I had no support. My brooks professional was broken. I was able to ride it home but the noserivets were ripped out. The moral of the story is dont use olive oil on your saddle. It will make it too soft and pull away from rivets. Also dont over tighten the brooks nose bolt. Just enough to give some tension but dont overdo it. Else it will pull out from rivets.reccomend only use proofide to reconstitute the leather. Happy cycling.
Hello, thanks for your comment. I had a crash recently and later on found that one of the saddle rails had snapped in half, however my nose bolt fix was still fine.
Great video. Thank you for making this. My tension bolt broke recently, but still held tension because it hadn't broke all the way. I noticed it only because it was squeeking loudly every peddle stroke. When I went to look at the bolt and release some tension, it finally broke all the way. Going to try your hardware store method. Thanks agian!
Thanks for the comment Steve. If you use a brooks saddle regularly you will at some point have this bolt break. It has happened to three of my saddles.
The Brooks bolt has a 5/16" British Cycle thread (you may not be a collector of such useless information 😁). If you wanted to use the original nut, I guess you could get a 5/16 BSCY bolt or some threaded rod instead. I've just snapped my first tensioner bolt after using Brooks saddles for decades, and your solution looks much easier -- I think the Brooks bolt makes the job difficult when it doesn't need to be. Thanks.
Hi Ed yes I know about the std cycle thread and it's odd that the thread is the same pitch on all sizes. I have had 3 break on different saddles but my saddles are old. I have fitted new brooks bolts and they are a nightmare to fit. Now if you showed anyone the bolt they would say "huh no problem" but I bet they have never tried to fit one, it looks so easy. I can only say that my bolt fix is still working fine after 2 1/2 years and lots of miles.
Brilliant hack, one day the world is going to be a lot poorer with guys like you not around. I am now 61 , the younger guys just don’t have the patience for this. Hopefully you are safe and well 👍😊
Many thanks for the kind comment. Time passes so quickly as one gets older, one moment you are young and fit and seemingly in a flash you become old and weary!
I have a brooks b66s and it also has the front tensioner with the through hole for the threaded tensioner. The order of assembly will make everything difficult when done out of the correct order and will make everything simple when done in the correct order. If you have removed the rear bolts from the back of the bracket the seat tube is mounted to running front to rear of the seat. Front with the difficult threaded tensioner in the front nose of the seat and the rear end is attached to either the springs or directly to the rear frame the leather seat is riveted directly to, if the rear is unbolted the front part of the bracket can be moved forward or back as needed to get the front tensioner(untensioned as much as it can be) in place without any problems then you just rebolt the back of the seat tube bracket to the frame of the seat or the rear springs. Then you can increase the tension using the front threaded bolt to the point of being taught but not to the point that is too far to cause the leather to rip at the riveting of the front or rear of the saddle. Just to be snug and then ride it and when it relaxes increase the tension to be snug and repeat until you get to the point where it is no longer relaxing more after you retention it, then it can be tensioned to your personal comfort level as needed.
Thanks for your help mate. I just received a new 'Brookes' spare bolt and you are so right it is a complete mare to install. If Brookes could make the machined end just 5 mm or so shorter it would fit in seconds - why will they not do this?. I spent time filing the end down so that the nut would move further back and then it went in ok and job was done. Again, many thanks for you help. Mike
Thanks for the comment Mike. You are not alone, I have had several front bolts snap and each time I have found it very difficult to fit a replacement. It looks so easy that most folk who have not had to replace one would not understand that it is not a simple 5 min job.
After 3 long training rides on a 'racing' bike saddle, I had to fix it. I went on a 40 mile ride today and boy was it worth the aggro. Maybe Brookes could be nice to their saddle fans and re design the bolt for easy replacement. Let's hope so. Cheers, Mike UK
@@Blueparradiddle I think they have altered the design as it now has a 'allen' type head making adjustment easier, I don't know whether it is still hard to replace though.
Hi! I think bolt replacement solution you've arrived at will solve a problem I've been having with my Brooks Flyer. Do you have any update on how well your solution has lasted over time?
Hi, Thanks for an extremely useful video. My bolt has just snapped and I'm about to try a repair, thanks to your video. I noticed your video is now a year old and I was wondering if your repair with an 8mm bolt worked OK in the long run. Is it still holding up OK?
Thanks for the comment, it's almost 2 years since I did this to my saddle and the answer is Yes the bolt is still perfect and I have been using the bike regularly so I think it has passed the longevity test.
Personal discovery, G.P.O. pliers adjusting No1, are the perfect tool to insert a new tensioning bolt in the Brooks saddle. For those who do not know, the G.P.O. is the forerunner of todays British Telecom.
I figured out how to get the replacement pin in. You need to put a zip tie around the rails and over the threaded part of the pin to keep it from wagging. Then take a large flat head screwdriver and lever the heads together. Wish I could post a picture. 3 minutes.
I tried doing similar and it did not work. I have managed to get an original Brooks bolt in but like most others found it very difficult to do. I have noticed that Brooks have changed their design and it looks much easier to do now.
There's a lot of stuff to do with bikes here on YT that's either the bleeding obvious to anyone with more than one brain cell, or is just downright wrong, but I must admit that's quite a neat and handy bodge! And you admit too that you don't know whether it will last. (But I'm sure it will.) It does make me wonder if Brooks specify the right kind of steel for their bolts though if they're prone to snapping like that. Have just bought a s/h titanium Swift so hopefully the bolt is stronger. Problem is, the leather's brown and the other bits and bobs on the bike are black and so I'm thinking of stripping the surface finish of the saddle somehow, and dyeing it....
Many thanks for the comment Graeme. Well since I made the repair the saddle is still going strong with the bodged bolt still intact, but now I know that if it does snap again I can easily and cheaply repair it. I have had at least 4 original Brooks saddle nose bolts break to date and I know many others have too. Anyone who has not tried to fit a new Brooks bolt will not understand how difficult they are too fit in place, it does look easy but I know it is almost impossible without specialised equipment. As regards saddle colour I changed the colour of one of my brown saddles to black with some black show dye which worked fine, not sure if you can still buy it. my bottle is many years old, I knew it would be useful one day!
Firstly thanks for the comment, now I don't know whether you have one of these saddles or tried to adjust one? However it is impossible to get a normal spanner in to adjust the nut, Brooks do sell a special spanner to do the job but I did not at the time possess one and I wanted to get the job done. Even normal pliers won't fit in so I was using long nosed ones and even then it is very fiddly. In fairness it is not obvious from the viewing angle at how awkward it is to adjust the nuts a side view would show it better.
Man, you are genius! You fucked up guys from brooks that try to make our life harder with this 13.5 mm nut and unknown bolt!!! Thank you so much! I will try this method.
I think an ordinary coach bolt would be a good replacement. If you're not familiar with them they have a rounded head usually with a square section just behind (see here www.toolstation.com/search?q=M8%20coach%20bolt). You may have to shape the head a little to get a good fit. What do you think?
Sorry for the late late reply I have only just spotted your reply, I do know about coach bolts I have some in my stock and as you say they would probably do the job.
Sorry my video was of no help to you, I only did the video to try to help others with the problem, I am disappointed that you found it so boring. The 'fix' is still working well on my saddle after 3 years of regular use.
No need to explain the method over and over again. This could have been a 5 minute video. To put the original Brooks nut in the yoke, do NOT screw the nut on the rod prior to inserting it in the yoke. Instead, insert the nut on the front side of the yoke and, from the backside, screw in the threaded rod. Works like a charm.
Well I am sorry you found the video not to your liking, I try my best but I am only an amateur video maker and only do them to try to help others, I get no personal gain whatsoever from doing these videos. Why not do a video yourself showing people your way of doing the job?
Thanks for this. It’s a perfect solution. Brookes wanted £45 for the repair!
So glad you found the video helpful and thanks for your kind comment.
Thanks for taking the time to explain the problem and provide several solutions - something every Brooks owner needs to know. I bought a second hand Dawes Galaxy in 1979 for 90 pounds from bike shop near Sloane Square and it came with a B17. In my ignorance, I over tensioned the saddle and tore the leather in the front - but have recently had it repaired back to good as new. I now appreciate what I have so much more now than I did then.
Thanks for your comment Simon.
Thank you Sir for this tutorial. 👍
It took me 15 minutes and my beloved B-17 was in service again.
Thanks from 🇩🇪
Thank you for the comment, so glad you found my video of use.
Thank you, I was just looking up the address for Brooks to have them repair my B17 saddle when I came across your video. Now, (20 minutes later) it's all fixed, using nuts and bolts I had lying around. Brilliant!
Thanks for your comment Nico. I can confirm that my bolt is still working fine after around 2 1/2 years use.
Got a B17 cheap. Convinced the tension bolt was stripped. This video showed me the potential to replace or repair. It just came down to knowing where to get a solid grip and turning the bolt in the correct direction. All is well. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment Hugh, glad the video was of some interest to you. John.
My buddy’s B17 suffered the same bolt break - your video saved the day! The world’s ugliest (green, hey it was cheap) Brooks rides again.
Thanks for your comment, I have had three of these nose bolts break over the years.
I am 64 years old but my B17 is just under 24 hours old. Thanks for sharing.
Alan you won't get a better saddle, I would not ride a bike without a Brooks saddle. one of mine is from 1975 and still in use.
My bolt sheared on tour. Googled it and came across this video. Got an 8m bolt and nuts. Was back on the road in a jiffy! Thanks to this video. Cheers mate.
Thank you for your comment Robert. I did mine 5 years ago and it is still doing the job perfectly.
Brilliant video thank you so much for sharing. Just got back from a wild camp on my saddle only to discover the bolt came out of the fixed hole at front. Looks like it’s had a similar fix by a previous owner as I bought this b17 many many years ago and I was gutted when it fell apart. Thanks to you I’ve managed to put it all back together and hopefully I’ll have many many more years if the leather doesn’t give out 😅
Hello Anne, thank you so much for your comment. When i was doing the video I was thinking to myself no one would be interested, yet it has turned out to be quite a popular video with many people having the same issue with their saddle.
Thank you very much. Your video really helped to repair my saddle within fifteen minutes.
Btw, I used an M10 Allen head screw. I had to file the head down a bit to fit in the nose, but then it was a piece of cake. That should last longer than an M8.
Thanks for your comment, Allen bolt sounds a good idea but I have to say mine screwed rod is still doing OK. Touch wood.
@@scrimperuk yes your idea is brilliant as it doesn't require much work but I simply happened to not have a screwed rod at hand and had to make do. Also, after all the videos of broken bolts I guessed that a larger diamtre might last longer.
Very helpful mate (as we say in Iowa). I snapped my B17 tension bolt a couple of days ago, and have had no success finding a replacement part so far. Even though I have about 7k miles on the saddle, I was unsuccessful in stretching the leather to provide enough space for 2 nuts. I intended to put one nut into the nose bracket, the other would be to turn against the rail bracket. I was successful using a socket head 8mm screw (with an allen head) and a single thin nut. It was a still a tight fit, but I was able to squeeze it in. It was then very easy to hold the nut with an open end wrench and turn the screw with an hex head wrench. Worked really well.
Thanks for the comment Bob.
Thanks a lot - great video. And solution for a difficult problem. I’ve broken bolts on my Swift. The first was an reasonable easy replacement with the shorter 64mm replacement tensioner bolt. Now I have a 70mm and it’s impossible without special equipment. In Australia where I live, Brooks representation is not well organized and the bolts are very difficult to acquire. My last 2 came from UK and we’re over £50 landed in SYDNEY. Your simple replacement strategy is a godsend - thank you again.
Hi Rod, thanks for your comment. Anyone who has not tried to fit a replacement saddle bolt will not understand the need for this video. It looks like a simple job but my first Brooks bolt replacement took me hours and was so frustrating. So Glad you found the video useful.
Thanks for your video, just repaired my saddle, works perfect, thanks again 👍
Many thanks for your comment Wayne, It's lovely to know my video was of some help to you.
Sir, you're a master magician. Thanks !!
Thank you for the kind comment.
Thankyou so much for that, I'm a maintenance guy and a friends saddle recently fell apart. I couldn't figure out how the hell to repair it until I saw your video!
Thanks for the comment Dan. So glad you found the video of some use. It makes it well worth the time doing the videos when I get comments such as yours.
Thank you very much I've spent hours on this saddle after watching your video I fixed in 10 minutes. thanks.
That's really good to hear. Thank you for your comment.
Thanks for the idea! I'm out in China and there's no place that could do the repair even though the bolt was intact. So I managed to do a bodge job with your help! I'm back riding again!
Excellent, so glad my video was a help to you.
I tried this myself, raided Dads bolt collection and bodged one in there and its fine... thanks for making the video feel a bit reassured it'll be ok now.
Thanks for your comment Neil. Well it's 3 years since I did my saddle and 1000's of miles later it is still fine.
Great video. I'm on tour and don't have a hacksaw so I just used a m8x50mm bolt without cutting the head off, just put the bolt in backwards and threaded the two nuts on like you did. Working for now.
Good idea. Thanks for watching.
Mine keeps loosening of it's own accord but I was reluctant to take it apart before seeing how it all functions and your video has shown how it all goes together - vey handy, Thanks for sharing.
Glad the video was of use to you.
Thanks so much for your video. Very useful and a great way to get the bike up and running again.
Thank you for your very kind comment Tony. So glad you found it useful.
Finally got back to finish watching and, as always, found it very enjoyable to watch you solve a little problem. Thanks mate -I'm away to watch you painting your bike now!
Thanks again Mark.
Wow - I just went through my saddle rebuild, and had a miserable time getting old bolt back in. Great tip!
Thank you for your comment.
I'm not a cyclist but I will settle down and watch anyway because I enjoy your vids so much. Love opening music! I'll be back later...
You are too kind Mark, your comments are very much appreciated.
Just watch you're video it was great I have had 3 bolts break now on my brook saddle in 3 years not happy but it's the best saddle I have had mind you. But I would say brooks need to look at the bolts must be inferior metal bolts
Thanks for the comment Dave, I have had several bolts break over the years but in fairness my saddles are up to 46 yrs old, how many other makes last this long and most makes you have to throw away if the break.
Great video and super solution to replacing the tensioning pin. My saddle is around 1 1/2 years old and had a broken pin. Found a replacement pin locally, but discovered how difficult it is to install it. Finally gave up trying to put the new pin in and followed the video suggestions using an 8 mm bolt after sawing off the head. I put a nyloc or locking nut on one end as suggested. Installation still not simple, as leather was pretty stiff, but I was finally successful. Doubt if I'd get the new tensioner in without sending it to a Brooks service store. Their website discusses the special equipment they have. Will see how things hold together after riding, but for now, many thanks!!
Thanks for the comment Gary. I have struggled several times fitting these bolts, it looks to be a simple task until you try to do it. I did the video in cqase it might help others with the problem and I am so glad that you found it useful. I am still riding the saddle repaired in the video and touch wood it is still fine.
Outstanding. Creative ingenuity at it’s best!
Thank you for your comment, you are very kind.
You could make that bolt from another bolt by filing down the head to look like that bolt.
Good video, and this seems to work. One guy was using an allen head bolt so that he could use an allen wrench to hold the bolt from the front.
Thank you for your comment Ringo. You could indeed use a normal bolt. The allen head is a very good idea and I understand that Brooks themselves do supply some saddles fitted with a bolt with such a head.
Thanks, great video, useful tips there. I hope your tractor was as comfy as ever once you put your saddle back on. Sorry couldn’t resist it with your accent - if it helps, I’m Welsh and you can reply with a sheep joke.
Thanks for your kind comment Mark. I am not a farmer but I do have a tractor but only a small Westwood garden tractor Lol. You can even see it in one of my videos. I can't think of any Welsh jokes ATM. Lol
Dear Scrimper U.K. I think ya got er! Hope she holds up for you. Never did have the nose bolts snap but have always owned the brooks pro. Racing saddles. Never had any trouble with them. The old brooks pro. Racing saddle that came with my5th px 10 peugeot did have problems. I used olive oil on it to recondition the leather and it got too soft. I was riding one day and the nose rivets let go all of a sudden I heard a ca chunk! Sounded like a paper cutter striking down. She bottomed out and I had no support. My brooks professional was broken. I was able to ride it home but the noserivets were ripped out. The moral of the story is dont use olive oil on your saddle. It will make it too soft and pull away from rivets. Also dont over tighten the brooks nose bolt. Just enough to give some tension but dont overdo it. Else it will pull out from rivets.reccomend only use proofide to reconstitute the leather. Happy cycling.
Hello, thanks for your comment. I had a crash recently and later on found that one of the saddle rails had snapped in half, however my nose bolt fix was still fine.
Fantastic, thanks for the effort of making this video for us.
And thank you too for watching and indeed taking the time to comment, much appreciated.
Wonderful solution!
so glad my video was of interest.
Great video. Thank you for making this. My tension bolt broke recently, but still held tension because it hadn't broke all the way. I noticed it only because it was squeeking loudly every peddle stroke. When I went to look at the bolt and release some tension, it finally broke all the way. Going to try your hardware store method. Thanks agian!
You were lucky mine snapped on the way home, fortunately I only had about 3 miles to go so I managed to get home without too much bother.
What a great video. Thank you so much. Got me out of trouble.
That is so nice to hear thank you for taking the time to comment.
great ideas, i'm going to make sure to add this video to my 'do it yourself' folder, just in case i ever have this problem
Thanks for the comment Steve. If you use a brooks saddle regularly you will at some point have this bolt break. It has happened to three of my saddles.
The Brooks bolt has a 5/16" British Cycle thread (you may not be a collector of such useless information 😁). If you wanted to use the original nut, I guess you could get a 5/16 BSCY bolt or some threaded rod instead. I've just snapped my first tensioner bolt after using Brooks saddles for decades, and your solution looks much easier -- I think the Brooks bolt makes the job difficult when it doesn't need to be. Thanks.
Hi Ed yes I know about the std cycle thread and it's odd that the thread is the same pitch on all sizes. I have had 3 break on different saddles but my saddles are old. I have fitted new brooks bolts and they are a nightmare to fit. Now if you showed anyone the bolt they would say "huh no problem" but I bet they have never tried to fit one, it looks so easy.
I can only say that my bolt fix is still working fine after 2 1/2 years and lots of miles.
Brilliant hack, one day the world is going to be a lot poorer with guys like you not around. I am now 61 , the younger guys just don’t have the patience for this. Hopefully you are safe and well 👍😊
Many thanks for the kind comment. Time passes so quickly as one gets older, one moment you are young and fit and seemingly in a flash you become old and weary!
Yes I know what you mean, cycling helps to keep active and your brain sharp. 😊🇬🇧
Really thanks for the tips, a customer give me a B17 (not new but not old) and I would prevent this type of problem.
Many thanks for your comment Andy - so glad you found the video useful. Brooks B17 is a superb saddle, nothing else compares.
Thanks for the helpful video. The nut size 5/16 British Standard / 1/4 Whitworth. It measures 13.34mm. Leave it to Brooks! 🙂
Thank you for your comment. John
I have a brooks b66s and it also has the front tensioner with the through hole for the threaded tensioner. The order of assembly will make everything difficult when done out of the correct order and will make everything simple when done in the correct order. If you have removed the rear bolts from the back of the bracket the seat tube is mounted to running front to rear of the seat. Front with the difficult threaded tensioner in the front nose of the seat and the rear end is attached to either the springs or directly to the rear frame the leather seat is riveted directly to, if the rear is unbolted the front part of the bracket can be moved forward or back as needed to get the front tensioner(untensioned as much as it can be) in place without any problems then you just rebolt the back of the seat tube bracket to the frame of the seat or the rear springs. Then you can increase the tension using the front threaded bolt to the point of being taught but not to the point that is too far to cause the leather to rip at the riveting of the front or rear of the saddle. Just to be snug and then ride it and when it relaxes increase the tension to be snug and repeat until you get to the point where it is no longer relaxing more after you retention it, then it can be tensioned to your personal comfort level as needed.
Thanks for your comments Mindy. All my cycles have Brooks B17 saddles on them and one I have been using since 1975 making it 48 years old!
great video. I just sealed both my brooks saddles with mink fat and beeswax.
Thank you for watching and your kind comment.
Thanks for your help mate. I just received a new 'Brookes' spare bolt and you are so right it is a complete mare to install. If Brookes could make the machined end just 5 mm or so shorter it would fit in seconds - why will they not do this?. I spent time filing the end down so that the nut would move further back and then it went in ok and job was done. Again, many thanks for you help. Mike
Thanks for the comment Mike. You are not alone, I have had several front bolts snap and each time I have found it very difficult to fit a replacement. It looks so easy that most folk who have not had to replace one would not understand that it is not a simple 5 min job.
After 3 long training rides on a 'racing' bike saddle, I had to fix it. I went on a 40 mile ride today and boy was it worth the aggro.
Maybe Brookes could be nice to their saddle fans and re design the bolt for easy replacement.
Let's hope so.
Cheers, Mike UK
@@Blueparradiddle I think they have altered the design as it now has a 'allen' type head making adjustment easier, I don't know whether it is still hard to replace though.
@@scrimperuk
Thanks for letting us know
Cheers
Hi! I think bolt replacement solution you've arrived at will solve a problem I've been having with my Brooks Flyer. Do you have any update on how well your solution has lasted over time?
Thanks for the comment. Indeed I have been riding the cycle regularly since the repair and it is still perfectly fine.
@@scrimperuk well that sold me! Thanks for the prompt reply!
Thank you for watching.
Merci, thank you for all your good explanations! trying to sort out my B67 flyer. The bolt turns loose without catching anything.
Thank you for your comment.
Way to go! Thanks bro.
Many thanks.
Excellenct video chap! Very helpful. Thank you from New York!
Thanks for taking the time to comment I am so glad you found the video helpful.
Thanks mate, great fix!
Thanks Kevin.
Great video Mark - I think I can now completely solve my 'frozen' bolt problem. I'll let you know!
Not sure if the comment is about my video or one of Mark's? (I am John).
@@scrimperuk Ooooops - my mistake - refers to your video John - I carelessly just plucked the name Mark from the comment below!
@@daisy7321 No problem, thanks for clarifying.
love it. thanks
Thanks for the kind comment
Hi, Thanks for an extremely useful video. My bolt has just snapped and I'm about to try a repair, thanks to your video.
I noticed your video is now a year old and I was wondering if your repair with an 8mm bolt worked OK in the long run. Is it still holding up OK?
Thanks for the comment, it's almost 2 years since I did this to my saddle and the answer is Yes the bolt is still perfect and I have been using the bike regularly so I think it has passed the longevity test.
@@scrimperuk That's good news. Thanks for the update. I think I'll do exactly the same and use your method. Many thanks.
Personal discovery, G.P.O. pliers adjusting No1, are the perfect tool to insert a new tensioning bolt in the Brooks saddle.
For those who do not know, the G.P.O. is the forerunner of todays British Telecom.
Many thanks for your comment, only problem with using GPO pliers is that most of us don't have them.
good job 👍
Thank you Irene.
danke aus deutschland, ich kann zwar kein englisch aber das video hilft auch so, vielen dank
Vielen Dank für Ihre freundlichen Kommentare
Great info guv’r. I enjoyed the info.Did your repair hold up?
The repair is still working just fine.
Thanks so much!!
many thanks for the comment.
I figured out how to get the replacement pin in. You need to put a zip tie around the rails and over the threaded part of the pin to keep it from wagging. Then take a large flat head screwdriver and lever the heads together. Wish I could post a picture. 3 minutes.
I tried doing similar and it did not work. I have managed to get an original Brooks bolt in but like most others found it very difficult to do. I have noticed that Brooks have changed their design and it looks much easier to do now.
There's a lot of stuff to do with bikes here on YT that's either the bleeding obvious to anyone with more than one brain cell, or is just downright wrong, but I must admit that's quite a neat and handy bodge! And you admit too that you don't know whether it will last. (But I'm sure it will.) It does make me wonder if Brooks specify the right kind of steel for their bolts though if they're prone to snapping like that.
Have just bought a s/h titanium Swift so hopefully the bolt is stronger. Problem is, the leather's brown and the other bits and bobs on the bike are black and so I'm thinking of stripping the surface finish of the saddle somehow, and dyeing it....
Many thanks for the comment Graeme. Well since I made the repair the saddle is still going strong with the bodged bolt still intact, but now I know that if it does snap again I can easily and cheaply repair it. I have had at least 4 original Brooks saddle nose bolts break to date and I know many others have too. Anyone who has not tried to fit a new Brooks bolt will not understand how difficult they are too fit in place, it does look easy but I know it is almost impossible without specialised equipment.
As regards saddle colour I changed the colour of one of my brown saddles to black with some black show dye which worked fine, not sure if you can still buy it. my bottle is many years old, I knew it would be useful one day!
Looks better than the original tack.
Thanks for the comment. just to say that i am still riding on this repaired saddle without any issues.
Nice work thank you so much
Mero lek’oy kolabal
Many thanks for your comment.
Where did you get the copper rivets?
I have had them in my stock for over 30 years, we used them at work, they are called "Bifurcated Rivets" there are sellers of these rivets on ebay.
A wonderful solution and video but my heart truly sinks when I see you using pliers, especially to hold the stud, rather than the right sized spanner.
Firstly thanks for the comment, now I don't know whether you have one of these saddles or tried to adjust one? However it is impossible to get a normal spanner in to adjust the nut, Brooks do sell a special spanner to do the job but I did not at the time possess one and I wanted to get the job done. Even normal pliers won't fit in so I was using long nosed ones and even then it is very fiddly. In fairness it is not obvious from the viewing angle at how awkward it is to adjust the nuts a side view would show it better.
Man, you are genius! You fucked up guys from brooks that try to make our life harder with this 13.5 mm nut and unknown bolt!!! Thank you so much! I will try this method.
Thank you for your comment Alex.
I think an ordinary coach bolt would be a good replacement. If you're not familiar with them they have a rounded head usually with a square section just behind (see here www.toolstation.com/search?q=M8%20coach%20bolt). You may have to shape the head a little to get a good fit. What do you think?
Sorry for the late late reply I have only just spotted your reply, I do know about coach bolts I have some in my stock and as you say they would probably do the job.
This is no help. I watched to the end and now I’ll never get this tome back
Sorry my video was of no help to you, I only did the video to try to help others with the problem, I am disappointed that you found it so boring. The 'fix' is still working well on my saddle after 3 years of regular use.
No need to explain the method over and over again. This could have been a 5 minute video. To put the original Brooks nut in the yoke, do NOT screw the nut on the rod prior to inserting it in the yoke. Instead, insert the nut on the front side of the yoke and, from the backside, screw in the threaded rod. Works like a charm.
Well I am sorry you found the video not to your liking, I try my best but I am only an amateur video maker and only do them to try to help others, I get no personal gain whatsoever from doing these videos. Why not do a video yourself showing people your way of doing the job?