You prolly dont care at all but does someone know a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid lost my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Cesar Mathias Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Gooday Tim. Another great insight. Thanks for your efforts mate. Really appreciate you taking the time and making the effort to include useful information in your clips. Looking forward to learning more from you. Take care and thanks again.
My question is: which way does the diagonal brace face? Top to the end post, or top to the line? Geometry would suggest bracing the top to the end post so that strain is transferred to the line post base keeping the end post more vertical. Yes\No?
Then this would suggest that on wood assemblies, the bracing wire would run top of the line post to base of the end post. Stress on the end post then transfers across the horizontal timber to the line post which is backed up by the brace wire tension from top line to bottom anchor of the end post keeping the whole thing square, or not. Just thinking.
Hey Tim love ya work mate , hey Tim when you put up your strainers on both ends do you run a bottom wire and just follow this making the bottom wire a guide eg.. like a string line for you to place the star pickets
Tim, I wonder if you have made that video and where it might be if you have? If not, as I cannot use my 2.85mm high tensile wire, is 2.5mm satisfactory for fence life but still able to be tied off by hand? What is the smallest calibre of HT wire that you would use? Thanks again. I've just watched the tying off for barbed, which I don't use but have a perimeter fence with a neighbour that has a top barb fence that I am going to have to tighten after I put in a small gate for access to an easement with our water meter on it.
Hi Tim. Thanks for the great video. My fencestay assemblies have just arrived. I'm using gal pipe for the end assembly. How should I join single-strand wire to them to stop them moving up and down the pipe?
Tim, thank you for all the many tips. I have only one current question. After years of struggling to tie off with a 2.85 high tensile roll, what is the easiest compromise between size of HT wire and doing the job by hand for an older chap?
@@FarmLearningTim I suppose what I was after was what thickness of HT wire do you use that gives a good combination of longevity and the ability to tie those great knots you described so well in your videos, by hand. I had an old roll I inherited from the previous owner of our small acreage but it had no markings left. I could do the ties quite reasonably, but not any more with the much thicker 2.85mm variety.
So Tim, I was wondering if you had done that interview and where it may be. Alternatively, can you tell me if 2.5mm wire is thin enough to be tied off by hand, as the 2.85 is not easy enough for me and you make it look ridiculously easy. If 2.5 isn't a small enough calibre, what is the next step down?
All steel fence? Well strum my wires and call me a fiddle. Full Metal Fencing is the name, steel fencing is the trade. If it ain't Galv I don't even want to know about it.
could you please show the best method to pull a metal fence over very uneven ground? should I just tension the net and cables and then adjust them at the right high on the poles? how to deal with sagging of the top net in the deeps and the opposite on the rises?
Hi Tim, nice video and fence build. I appreciate all the tips you give, thankyou. I was wondering what type of boundary fencing you would recommend to help prevent fence damage from roos and wombats? We don't keep stock, except for roos and wombats 🙂 Cheers.
@@FarmLearningTimThanks for getting back and yes, that is a big question. I guess really we don't have an issue with them on property (we have a marsupial lawn) it's just that we have so many holes in the fence (it's two top barbs with mesh (like heavy chicken wire) below on 3 horizontal wires. It is old and looks really bad. So happy with no barb on top. Roos can jump over, happy to keep wombats out but I know they'll just dig underneath, which is a pain but not an issue as long as they don't destroy the fence. Cheers
@@michaelclark2840 ok. What about neighbors? Are they relying on grazing stock for income? Think about the impact that your feeding Roos could have on them. Might inform your way forward. If not an issue, then install wombat gates in the fence on game trails ( they always go through the same way) and problem solved. Don’t use barb above nose height on any fence it’s just cruel. Check out my budget exclusion fence video for more ideas. Hope that helps
@@FarmLearningTim thanks Tim. Good point about the neighbours, that said we have state forest all round and our closest neighbours have more roos on their properties than ours. I'll check out your exclusion fence video. Cheers and thanks.
Tim, can you tell me why you don't strain your plain wires with the strainers attached to your end post like you did in this video for the temporary ground wire ?
For runs of several hundred meters I do, however with shorter runs the tying of the termination knot makes for slack in the run that results in slacker or more variation in line tension. Knots and good joiners allow a much more consistent result
Hi Tim, great video. How far do you space the intermediate posts (star pickets)? Does the envelope system do away with strainer wires? Thanks very much for your help
@@nathanmarsh9132 ahh save wires.... it’s a matter of choice. The Whites stiffstay wire has high tensile top and bottom so not really, but some people still insist!
I'm not a fan of concrete for round post holes. The sideways strain can crack the concrete and the buggers are hard to get out. The 76mm diameter of the posts is best suited to driving them in the ground, you will loose a lot of rigidity if you drill. I reckon if you are going for concreting then go concrete posts. Just my opinion.... Hope it's helpful.
Your brace is wrong. The cross brace should be the other way. The way you have it right now will allow the fence tension to pull the gate post ( open end of the fence ) upward and out. The cross brace is to prevent this by applying the load to the other post and directing the load back to prevent racking of the brace and causing it to pull out. I seen that the wood post were correct yet yours are not. Care to tell me how this is not right?
My wooden assembly is different to the metal one because it works differently. A wooden brace has a wire crossbrace that tensions the brace when pulled. This one has a solid steel crossbrace that is strongest when compressed. If it were installed opposite, as you suggest, the post would actually be more likely to be forced up out of the ground, due to the solid nature of the brace. Cheers.
Hi Tim. Thanks for the video. Do you know where I can order this fencing from, and could you tell me what heights / mesh I would need for goats? I plan to build an approx 12 x 8 enclosure for overnight, and use electric fencing during the day. Do I need end assemblies on each corner for this size area? Thanks in advance.
G’day Steve. Whites for the wire and fence stay for the end assemblies. Both companies are linked on my website timthompson.ag you will also see all the answers to your questions in my video library, which is on the website also!
I’ve never seen this envelope straining.. I mean I get it and all but What about slip on your termination knots 🤷♂️ Another tip other than sharpening is actually have a go at pulling down on the post driver 😉😂
Tim - why not build a proper fully welded end assembly instead of using these poxy kits? A well constructed, all steel 3 rail or stay & top rail end assembly will give more strength & durability than these bolt together kits and will last a lifetime compared to timber alternatives. I guess quick & easy is good enough for semi-rural Victoria but there’s no chance I’d use gear like that here in western NSW. Just not sure why you’d recommend this sort of stuff to people over a proper fully welded steel alternatives and why you haven’t shown how to build a decent steel end assembly on your channel?
Too easy 👍🏻 great for dry country no welding fires
You prolly dont care at all but does someone know a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid lost my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Peter Brycen Instablaster :)
@Cesar Mathias Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Cesar Mathias It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my ass !
@Peter Brycen No problem =)
Thommo is the Russell Coight of fencing mate 👍 true blue
Oh dear…..
Good job
Here's an idea, drive in one 80mm post, put an adjusta stay on it and move on
Good simple idea I like the simple Ed’s of it
Cheers
Gooday Tim.
Another great insight. Thanks for your efforts mate. Really appreciate you taking the time and making the effort to include useful information in your clips. Looking forward to learning more from you. Take care and thanks again.
I have learned to use two levels one in each direction to help hold everything straight
great tips and the showing the different tools & products used, which makes the job a little bit easier which we all like thanks again Tim 👍
I reckon they should have a screw end like an otter ground screw so you can screw the fence post in
Great video Tim happy new year, all the best for 2021
a great job. I may do the ends like that with the next fence I build
My question is: which way does the diagonal brace face? Top to the end post, or top to the line? Geometry would suggest bracing the top to the end post so that strain is transferred to the line post base keeping the end post more vertical. Yes\No?
Top to the end post. See if you can spot the mistake 😂..... it was late on Christmas Eve.....😳
Then this would suggest that on wood assemblies, the bracing wire would run top of the line post to base of the end post. Stress on the end post then transfers across the horizontal timber to the line post which is backed up by the brace wire tension from top line to bottom anchor of the end post keeping the whole thing square, or not. Just thinking.
@@donberger850 spot on mate. Check out my earlier video on constructing a box end assembly. Goes through all that.
Nice system, but I think Rotech Rural products are better again. Faster to install and works equally as well with timber posts
Thats a handy dandy work platform that is 😁😁
Hey Tim love ya work mate , hey Tim when you put up your strainers on both ends do you run a bottom wire and just follow this making the bottom wire a guide eg.. like a string line for you to place the star pickets
Yes mate. Exactly. I’ve demonstrated this in a couple of videos.
I have an order in with Fencestay, I’ll try out this method when it arrives
Tim, I wonder if you have made that video and where it might be if you have? If not, as I cannot use my 2.85mm high tensile wire, is 2.5mm satisfactory for fence life but still able to be tied off by hand? What is the smallest calibre of HT wire that you would use? Thanks again. I've just watched the tying off for barbed, which I don't use but have a perimeter fence with a neighbour that has a top barb fence that I am going to have to tighten after I put in a small gate for access to an easement with our water meter on it.
Trigger Engineering are definately on the money there, a good idea that is very handy great job Tim Happy New Year mate
Hi Tim. Thanks for the great video. My fencestay assemblies have just arrived. I'm using gal pipe for the end assembly. How should I join single-strand wire to them to stop them moving up and down the pipe?
Some people double wrap before tying off. Not necessary though if you tie off tight.
Tim, thank you for all the many tips. I have only one current question. After years of struggling to tie off with a 2.85 high tensile roll, what is the easiest compromise between size of HT wire and doing the job by hand for an older chap?
I’m talking with a wire expert about wire choices today, in the hope of making a video on the subject. It’s likely to take a month or so…..
@@FarmLearningTim I suppose what I was after was what thickness of HT wire do you use that gives a good combination of longevity and the ability to tie those great knots you described so well in your videos, by hand.
I had an old roll I inherited from the previous owner of our small acreage but it had no markings left. I could do the ties quite reasonably, but not any more with the much thicker 2.85mm variety.
So Tim, I was wondering if you had done that interview and where it may be. Alternatively, can you tell me if 2.5mm wire is thin enough to be tied off by hand, as the 2.85 is not easy enough for me and you make it look ridiculously easy. If 2.5 isn't a small enough calibre, what is the next step down?
All steel fence? Well strum my wires and call me a fiddle.
Full Metal Fencing is the name, steel fencing is the trade.
If it ain't Galv I don't even want to know about it.
Great video, and great products. You seem to build a lot of fences. What do you use them all for?
Not all mine..... but mostly keeping things in.... sometimes keeping things out....
if you wanted to Electrify that could you do that? with a solar electric fencing Energizer?
Yep. Just add insulators
could you please show the best method to pull a metal fence over very uneven ground? should I just tension the net and cables and then adjust them at the right high on the poles? how to deal with sagging of the top net in the deeps and the opposite on the rises?
Check out my fencing a gully video
Hi Tim, nice video and fence build. I appreciate all the tips you give, thankyou.
I was wondering what type of boundary fencing you would recommend to help prevent fence damage from roos and wombats? We don't keep stock, except for roos and wombats 🙂 Cheers.
Big question. Do you want to exclude the Roos and wombats or just let them go through without damage?
@@FarmLearningTimThanks for getting back and yes, that is a big question. I guess really we don't have an issue with them on property (we have a marsupial lawn) it's just that we have so many holes in the fence (it's two top barbs with mesh (like heavy chicken wire) below on 3 horizontal wires. It is old and looks really bad.
So happy with no barb on top. Roos can jump over, happy to keep wombats out but I know they'll just dig underneath, which is a pain but not an issue as long as they don't destroy the fence. Cheers
@@michaelclark2840 ok. What about neighbors? Are they relying on grazing stock for income? Think about the impact that your feeding Roos could have on them. Might inform your way forward. If not an issue, then install wombat gates in the fence on game trails ( they always go through the same way) and problem solved. Don’t use barb above nose height on any fence it’s just cruel. Check out my budget exclusion fence video for more ideas. Hope that helps
@@FarmLearningTim thanks Tim. Good point about the neighbours, that said we have state forest all round and our closest neighbours have more roos on their properties than ours. I'll check out your exclusion fence video. Cheers and thanks.
Tim, can you tell me why you don't strain your plain wires with the strainers attached to your end post like you did in this video for the temporary ground wire ?
For runs of several hundred meters I do, however with shorter runs the tying of the termination knot makes for slack in the run that results in slacker or more variation in line tension. Knots and good joiners allow a much more consistent result
Hi Tim, great video.
How far do you space the intermediate posts (star pickets)?
Does the envelope system do away with strainer wires? Thanks very much for your help
Four meters mate. And no, Still need some form of strainer, either stay bracket as in this video or wire in normal systems. Cheers.
@@FarmLearningTim sorry, I meant a top and bottom high tensile wire? Do I need to run them if I use this system?
@@nathanmarsh9132 ahh save wires.... it’s a matter of choice. The Whites stiffstay wire has high tensile top and bottom so not really, but some people still insist!
Tim, would it be acceptable to auger out holes and concrete the strainer assembly posts in instead
I'm not a fan of concrete for round post holes. The sideways strain can crack the concrete and the buggers are hard to get out. The 76mm diameter of the posts is best suited to driving them in the ground, you will loose a lot of rigidity if you drill. I reckon if you are going for concreting then go concrete posts. Just my opinion.... Hope it's helpful.
@@FarmLearningTim cheers thanks for the comments
Your brace is wrong.
The cross brace should be the other way.
The way you have it right now will allow the fence tension to pull the gate post ( open end of the fence ) upward and out. The cross brace is to prevent this by applying the load to the other post and directing the load back to prevent racking of the brace and causing it to pull out.
I seen that the wood post were correct yet yours are not. Care to tell me how this is not right?
My wooden assembly is different to the metal one because it works differently. A wooden brace has a wire crossbrace that tensions the brace when pulled. This one has a solid steel crossbrace that is strongest when compressed. If it were installed opposite, as you suggest, the post would actually be more likely to be forced up out of the ground, due to the solid nature of the brace.
Cheers.
William Glaser you’re right - 11:35 he has the end assembly the wrong way around but must change it because at the end of the video it’s correct.
Hi Tim. Thanks for the video. Do you know where I can order this fencing from, and could you tell me what heights / mesh I would need for goats? I plan to build an approx 12 x 8 enclosure for overnight, and use electric fencing during the day. Do I need end assemblies on each corner for this size area? Thanks in advance.
G’day Steve. Whites for the wire and fence stay for the end assemblies. Both companies are linked on my website timthompson.ag you will also see all the answers to your questions in my video library, which is on the website also!
@@FarmLearningTim Thanks Tim. Always wanted to learn the Truckies hitch too! : )
Is there a roo and wombat friendly fence idea?
Not something that I’ve ever been asked before. I’ll keep an eye out
Do you reckon a "petrol driven post rammer" is really a "hand tool"?
I certainly held it with my hands 🤣 seriously though..... no tractor mounted post rammers here...
@@FarmLearningTim Fair enough...in any case - nice job on the fence - very neat and tight.
Hey tim, whats your opinion on concrete precast posts?
Started a video on these. Waiting for COVID lockdowns to finish it.
@@FarmLearningTim any updates on this?
@@owenliberts Not yet. The guy I am doing the project with has been delaying the job for various reasons.
I’ve never seen this envelope straining.. I mean I get it and all but What about slip on your termination knots 🤷♂️
Another tip other than sharpening is actually have a go at pulling down on the post driver 😉😂
Tim - why not build a proper fully welded end assembly instead of using these poxy kits? A well constructed, all steel 3 rail or stay & top rail end assembly will give more strength & durability than these bolt together kits and will last a lifetime compared to timber alternatives. I guess quick & easy is good enough for semi-rural Victoria but there’s no chance I’d use gear like that here in western NSW. Just not sure why you’d recommend this sort of stuff to people over a proper fully welded steel alternatives and why you haven’t shown how to build a decent steel end assembly on your channel?
How come the Aussies get such nice gate hangers and we have to use Chinese made crap in the United States?
Dont worry the gate hinges in the video are made in PRC as well. And the feed wire for the netting.