Thank you for taking the time to create this video. It was beyond helpful. We also had 10 separate Anderson sliders circa 1997/1998. There was a lot of peeling of the outside vinyl cladding and my husband was able to clean out all the grub under the horizontal section of the panel with a plastic knife (instead of a tongue depressor), weatherproof the vertical sections with the Titebond and fix the horizonal sections that were coming off. I cannot tell you how much money this saved ! Also, thank you to the person who provided the link for the Titebond.
Thank you for the video. Like yourself and so many others my 20 year old Anderson door cladding has begun to delaminate last Fall. The recommendation from two local dealers and Anderson was to buy a new door even though all I wanted to buy was just the vinyl piece on the bottom center of the doors. I have two other gliders with no issues and about 14 double hung or slider windows on the house and garage. So quite disappointed with the lack of support or concern from Anderson. I removed the laminate entirely from the fixed door today and found that the 3/8 plywood outer frame behind the vinyl was also loose across the whole door which possibly contributed to the cladding to lift off. My next step will be to remove the scattered adhesive from the door and vinyl, refasten the plywood frame portion with Titebond as you recommend, and reattach the vinyl with exterior bracing for a day or so as you recommend. Many Thanks!
Thank you Pete. I have the same problem on my “Frenchwood” doors. Peeling in multiple places. In my case the bottom panels where to far gone. I ended up peeling the bottoms panels vinyl off, sanding glue off, using wood filler as needed for rotting section. Sanding wood filler, prime bare wood. Took sample of bottom panel to get matching paint and painted bottom of both doors. On the vertical sides of door I am in the process of getting “Weathermaster Sealant” and following your tutorial. Thank you for this valuable lesson, Bill S
Thank you I got the same issue and Andersen said the same thing to me. I was thinking of doing a repair with glue as well but your video is terrific. Thanks again.
A couple of points to mention. These Anderson doors (and windows) are often referred to as vinyl clad. They are not. The exterior cladding was actually a laminate similar to what is used on kitchen counters and the like, i.e. Formica. If the separation is caught early the sealant referred to in the video should work. Unfortunately if left to mother nature mildew (due to the moisture) will soon attack the wood behind the peeling laminate and it will begin to deteriorate. In our situation we ended up taking the sliding & stationary panels out of the frame and removing the exterior cladding. We ended up painting the doors with good exterior paint. On the sliding panel 3 of the 4 pieces just peeled right off. The top piece we used a belt sander. On the stationary panel 2 of the pieces peeled off easily and the other 2 were removed by use of the sander. We did this for a couple of reasons. On one of the panels the a portion of the laminate cladding broke off one day while closing the door. Trying to glue it back really wasn't an option espacially when we saw some of the wood black with mildew. Also some of the wood on the lower portion had to be repaired. Mildew was treated with bleach before painting. How long this will last remains to be seen. Really disappointed with what I thought was a lifetime no maintenance door from Anderson.
Same with what happened to my door. I wish I had looked for this video when trying to repair one of the panels. The cladding on the bottom broke in half when the screen slid past the protrusion. I ended up ripping it off and tried using wood putty as a filler. I'll likely redo it as it looks really rigged right now but it has held up. But just noticed the other stationary panel bottom cladding is starting to warp and peel away. I may look for replacement laminate to cover that wood putty filler I rigged up.
Thanks Pete, I am having the same issues and same response from Anderson. They should be ashamed of themselves. Not only did my cladding laminate come apart in many areas, also on the lower sections below the window of the door and below the side window panels, the wood split as well. 3 identical 8”X21” sections. I cut new 8”X21” pieces of plywood and I’m about to begin the process of gluing it to the existing wood and perfectly bringing it to the surface level of the rest of the door. After doing a lot of research I believe the laminate is called HPL (High pressured laminate). I’ve been thinking of ordering HPL and adhering it to my cut 8”X21” panels before gluing them permanently to the existing wood sections. As much as I would like to do this, it is taking time, and I want to get this project finished. I’ve already primed and painted those 8”x 21“ sections and they are ready to be installed/glued. I shared this for any of your followers having this issue m. It can be fixed and it is not that hard. Thank you for your video. I’m glad I saw it before I used the bonding adhesive I bought. I will return it and buy the one you mentioned. Thanks again.
Thank you for finally giving me an idea of what I can do with our Anderson doors. When we called Anderson they told us the same thing-We need to spend $8-10k for a new set of doors when it was just some vinyl panel lifting. It seems outrageous that there was not other option. Thankful to have come across your Very helpful video. Wish me luck!
Spot On!!! Weathermaster Sealant works. Mineral Spirits desolves the left over sealant in the applicator tip so you can use it repeatedly. Excellent video! Thanks Peter! Ladders and dumbells are a great way to compress the repair. Careful not to permanently attach the ladder (braces) to your sliding glass door! Smile.
Hi Pete, Thank you so much for saving me thousands of dollars!!!! I have six sets of Anderson sliding doors that face the WEST. I live in Las Vegas so the sun gets really hot and just destroys the bottom of those doors. I called Anderson and they said I needed to replace the damaged doors. I went on TH-cam and found your amazing video. Thank you so much!!! Your explanation was so detailed and clear to follow. Super easy! We just finished fixing four sets of doors. Thank you again. Lisa
My hat is off to you for solving this problem that is the exact same issues i have i mean EXACT PROBLEMS Anderson was a good product ONCE ! when they covered the wood so it would Last they defeated the purpose it's only good for around 20 years and like you say they tell you SORRY YOU NEED TO BUY NEW DOORS! We bought 5 door systems from them for the reason it was a one time buy with total protection from the weather No it was not i would of been better buying all WOOD on the outside and paint them , i'm in the same boat you were i opened the screen Duct Tape to hold this so i could use the screen - upon a closer look the wood under this material wood-chips
I have the same problem and will be fixing it this summer. Thank you for the information. I paid a lot of extra money like we all dead to have a worry proof door for a lifetime. I won’t ever buy another Anderson product.
Big THANKS, Pete. We have glued and re-glued the vinyl panels on our doors over the years and nothing seems to hold. With winter ending, the problem is back and this time we will use your method. For the money Andersen charges for these doors, I am very disappointed in the quality of their product. Job well done!
Pete, thanks for taking your time to document and post your idea. I specifically bought an Anderson slider door their quality. I didn't realize that i was getting poor quality! Your slider looks exactly like mine but only the lower corners are peeling on mine. I guess that I got lucky or maybe Maryland winters aren't as brutal as yours are. I'm planning on giving it a try. My only suggestion for a slight improvement would be to give the part number for the sealant that you used. I think it's 44001 but I'm not positive. Thanks! HJS. 🙂
@Pete from NY. Thank you for the great tips re: fixing my Anderson Patio Doors. I had the same issues as you, e.g., the cladding was separating from the outside of the doors. I followed your instructions and used the Weathermaster sealant product, and braced the repairs during curing (using wood boards and weights)..and Voila! Next step...some white paint and should look like new. Thank you for taking the time to share your great ideas with us.
THANK YOU!! Just discovered this problem on my Anderson sliding door this morning when the screen door would not slide open. First stop, youtube and I found you. Exactly what I needed. Headed to the hardware store now for Weathermaster Sealant. Love, love, love your "clamps".
Same problem with my 20 year old Anderson French doors. Was going to try to glue it. Glad I found your video. Anderson was no help. Told to replace them. Thank you
Thank you for your video. I also have french doors / sliders installed in 1999 that are delaminating. I compared to a 6 year old (installed 2014) slider and Andersen changed the laminating design (adding a drip edge and covering the lamination seam). Thankfully I found your video and repaired the doors using the Titebond Weathermaster Sealant. Andersen should be ashamed for not publishing a similar fix. They certainly know of the design defect.
Thanks Jeff. It’s amazing that they do not offer help and repairing this problem with seems quite common according to the number of views on my video. Please subscribe to my channel it helps me get my messages out. Thanks
Super job, sir! You were correct at the start of the start of the video: I was seeing you because I am having the same problem after - wait for it - 22 years! I’ve got to hustle this morning though to catch the nice day before our first winter weather system blows in tomorrow. I hope mine aren’t too damaged but I think with your help, they’re savable. Great post! 👊
I Installed Anderson windows (and a Frenchwood Patio Door) throughout my newly built home in 1999, twenty-one years ago. I too have the exact same problem, and despite spending hours on the phone with Anderson, they wouldn’t budge, their only solution was to replace the panels at a cost of $1700 each. I ask if I could purchase new laminate material and was told no. The only thing worse than their doors is their customer service. As I explained to them, I will never purchase another Anderson product as long as I live. Thanks for sharing your solution.
Pete, You are my hero! As I was watching this video I kept saying that’s me, that’s me, that’s just like my doors! Having same exact problem on the same exact doors in the same exact spot and I got the same exact answers from Anderson as you did. I also had the same reaction of no way paying $5000 plus installation!! I previously tried Flexseal and regular caulk and even tried nailing the vinyl with tiny tacks all to no avail. Going to order some of this product and give it a go! I will let you know how it works and thank you so much! Love your innovative clamp solution! 😀😀👍👍
Hi Kristin. Thanks so much for your kind words! Yes my math it will save you thousands of dollars! Please let me know how you made out and please subscribe to my channel
Me too, Kristin!! Thank you, Pete! When you said you had ten panels, I just groaned - we only have four. Tried Flexsealast year but it didn’t really work. Your clamping is brilliant and I got the first one done today. I used shims to push the sealant in because I couldn’t get tongue depressors. 😊 👍 It really is amazing how all our doors failed just after the 20 year warranty, very disappointed in Andersen products. Our French doors are 22 years old.
Thank you Pete, wish I had seen this when we first had the problem. Having same issue, your solution is amazing. Will be sure to try it in Hope's to save our doors.
So happy to hear with Pete’s solution, the cladding is holding up fine after a few years. 👍 Pete, thanks for saving me thousands of dollars🙏, the amount I have to pay Andersen to replace my twin patio sliding doors. That’s their ONLY solution 🤔. Will get the sealant tomorrow. The bottom section of the stripping between my sliding and stationary doors is tearing. Must be caused by the separating cladding. Does anyone know how to repair the stripping ?
Thank you! Like the others I am having the same problem with the laminate detaching from the plywood backing. In my case I let it go too far and the plywood is now warping. My fault for not seeking out a solution earlier. I'm now research laminate/formica sheets to apply to the plywood backing (once I get that straightened out). I appreciate how you take the time in your video to methodically go through the repair step by step. Great job! I have liked the video and subscribed to your channel! Update - ordered HPL from Woodworkers Express. Thickness seems to match up nicely. Fingers crossed.
"Low maintenance" products like vinyl and other plastic-based products are a scourge. They're only low maintenance because there's almost no maintenance you can do before you have to send it to the landfill. Thanks for the video, Peter. I'll be trying your method soon, but I'll also be buying solid wood doors next time...the finish/paint applied to the wood will require maintenance every couple years, but if done properly the wood will last for generations, which is how it should be when you spend thousands of dollars.
Thanks for a great repair video. Absolutely no help from Andersen except for very expensive replacement. I’m sure they get many calls you’d think they would suggest watching your video. Fantastic!!!
Thanks Pete. Just discovered the same problem on 21 year old doors in Michigan. I will try your method with the material adhesive you used. I am also married to a nurse, lol!
Exceptional tutorial Pete...THANKS from Maine. We tried "gluing' the separating cladding also with little success. Now to use your technique. BTW our friend, retired Marvin zone manager for Maine, said that Marvin French door cladding does not separate. We used Anderson since they were much less cost than the same Marvin French doors ( close to 2X the price ).
Thank you for posting this video. I had some of the same issues that you did but only on the bottom panels. I ordered the Titebond from Amazon, I believe. I waited for a dry day, cleaned it all out, applied the Titebond and pushed up a board to it and secured it with an extension pole with applied pressure from a tire jack that was up against my deck. Worked like a charm. Thanks again!
I’m in the process of repairing mine. I let it go too long. I contacted Anderson. I think it may have been under warranty or maybe not. Anyway they were going to replace the two glass panels with the issue for half the price for $800 each. The panel came completely off one of the doors. So my mom found similar material at Menards. I will paint and glue using the glue you suggested for the repairs and let you know. I’m just getting to this 9 years later!
Thank you for this! I wish I would have seen it a couple of years ago. I threw away one whole panel as it was hanging on by a thread but I will repair what I can with the sealant!
Awesome video!!! Thanks for sharing! My sliding door is peeling at the bottom like you showed. Wasn’t sure what to use as what I originally tried didn’t seal properly. Will try this next month to see if it solves my problem!
Thanks Pete! My Anderson doors are now doing the same thing. I was going to try contact cement and thought, why not do a quick search and see what others are doing? This is way easier! Thanks!
Thank you for this very helpful video! Add me to the list of folks whose Andersen clad doors began to separate at 22 years!! I have the sealant you recommend on order. Thanks again!!
Yup! Anderson wants your $$$$$. I helped you for free, Enjoy sharing my solution.Please subscribe to my channel if you found my video helpful! Thanks Pete
Thank you, Pete! I am having the exact same problem, and was dreading having to buy a new door. I'm going to order that Weathermaster product and tackle this myself.
Thanks Pete. You are my hero. I told my husband and he said he would try this product. Our sliders were installed in 1997. That's a long time, but do you know how much it costs today to replace them today? $5,000 to $10,000. Of course, Anderson wants you to buy new sliders. What do you expect! Thank you.
Thanks, Pete. Would you provide an update based on condition of the repaired areas after exposure to winter weather? I, too, contacted Andersen, and they were unwilling provide any meaningful compensation since the warranty period had expired. The lesson learned is that Andersen charges a premium price, but this product is much below premium quality since it has a well-known design/manufacturing defect. Andersen, despite its advertising, does not stand behind its products. My experience has been that other manufacturers will replace, at no cost to consumer, products that failed when clearly due to design/manufacturing defects, regardless of warranty status.
Thanks, Peter, for the update. Sounds good. Regarding your method for applying pressure to the repaired areas. Did you ever consider screwing pieces of wood (e.g., battens) temporarily into the core of the door to hold the vinyl cladding firmly in place while the sealant is curing? Then, after curing, remove the screws and fill the small screw holes with, possibly, an epoxy fairing compound. It seems to me that this method would apply a great deal more pressure for the curing process than would ladders, etc. Also, I have one door where the vinyl cladding really should be replaced. Any ideas about where to obtain suitable replacement vinyl?
wish I had seen this sooner. I put in silicone and glue and then put in tiny screws to hold the vinyl down as it did not look like the space between the vinyl and the door was tightly closed. And a clamping solution revolution to boot. I called Anderson as well - they had no solution. Surprising! My opinion of Anderson products is significantly less than it used to be!
Good Job Pete! Yes, mine (Frenchwood Sliding door) did the same, as well as my Andersen casement windows collapsed and fogged right after the warranty period was over. Something about an Andersen screwup with the Argon case between the double panes leaking out. By collapse I mean they no longer have a space between the panes in the middle. Ruins the insulating ability of the window and they fog up. Bottom line.....Andersen does not stand behind their products. I think they made a good product years ago and built up a good reputation....Then....they made crap and don't stand behind their products (riding on the name)....Really too bad.....I would never recommend Andersen products to anyone! Had to replace window sashes and they were more expensive than the whole original window. I also replaced a frenchwood door panel . Your video is great and can help a lot of people who are stuck with these lousy products! Thanks Again!
I have the exact same doors! all 6 of mine have the exact same damage on the bottom. I did not know what do and was just planning on replacing and so with time and sun the vinyl came off and on some a bit of wood is rotting... Now after finding this I'm going to try and fix it! I need to find some vinyl to put over it.
Pete -- Oh gosh; we are a victim too, and spent yesterday applying your method to our Andersens. Our case is somewhat more advanced than yours but we are hopeful than we can get a few more years out of the doors in so doing. However i have a comment that you and your followers may find of value: i recalled enough of my high school physic's static analysis to determine that the horizontal thrust on the spreader plate at the door -- which you want to maximize -- MUST EQUAL the horizontal thrust (in the other direction!) of the friction patch contacting the deck or other surface by your ladder/strut/furniture/whatever. In view of that fact i fabricated a little flange from cheap brackets i bought at the hardware store; the purpose of the flange is to fit into my deck's "slots" between the planking, and connected to 2x4s i use for struts. Unlike the thrust apparatus connecting to the door that you used, Pete, this flange does not depend on friction contact with the deck to provide the opposing thrust at the point of contact. Once that flange is in the deck's planking slots it will provide any reasonable thrust to the door. i protect the deck's finish with a simple patch of old felt over the flange prior to slipping into the deck. My simple strut -- with said flange -- combined with weight (garden paving stones in my case) yield all the thrust i need on the door for Weathermaster curing. i would be happy to send photos if you wish and give me an email address; i cannot attach them here apparently. -- gary
You've given me hope. Any update on how the fix has lasted? Also, I can appreciate your "critique" regarding Andersen "assistance". Let me just add a rant about Pella. If you don't know, you ASSuME that Andersen & Pella are premium products. Just assume the only thing premium is the price. I have Pella windows & doors that have failed. Not warranty even though it's a design flaw. And they don't make anything that matches so it's either repair on my own or replace EVERY window & door. Again, thanks for the tip and also the opportunity to rant a little bit.
Have already replaced one panel. I have two more failing panels. Andersen gave me a discount, but the staining of the panels and installation was even more. Andersen did admit it was an manufacturing problem that has since been fixed. I will give this fix a try. If it does not work long term, I will replace - But not with Andersen! I will never recommend them. I have 12 total panels not installed at the same time I am hoping the later ones do not have the generic failure.
Hi, Pete. Thanks so much for posting the video and for all of the other commenters and their helpful information, as well. I was wondering if you ever considered just using Super Glue, as it seems easier to use and since it is more or less liquid in form, it seems as if it would go further down into the depths of the separation of the cladding from the wood and form a more complete bond? I have 2 Andersen french doors and 1 older slider from 1996. One of the french doors has some separation just like yours on one edge in 2 spots, which I first noticed a long time ago - probably around 10 years or so ago. I contacted Andersen and they sent me a replacement, which I just never got around to installing. It is still boxed and in my garage. Fortunately for me, the existing door has remained about in the same condition and did not really get worse. However, I will now soon, probably use your method and see how well it works and just leave the boxed door in the garage just in case. Both of the french doors, by the way are on the back of my house, which gets full sun most all day long. The slider, however is on the North side of my Maryland home, and is in the shade a lot of the day. It has similar cladding separation as yours on one side/edge of both the sliding panel and the stationary panel - in both cases on the outer edge next to the frame. I can use the same method for those issues, however, there is an area about 4 inches by 6 inches on the front bottom panel, where the cladding has broken off in pieces. I can either clean and lightly sand that area and paint it and maintain by repeat painting over the years or use another method I will now mention. That method I successfully used last year, which lasted through last winter and still looks fine - however, it was a slightly different application than a door. I have an overhead balcony on the front of my house over the front porch and entry door. That balcony is surrounded by a wooden railing attached four 4 x 4 pressure treated and painted posts. Due to inattention, some of the flat boards over top of the rail pickets and the posts themselves had areas of rot - and in the posts it was up to a couple of inches deep in spots. I replaced the top rails with PVC boards and painted, but the main problem was with the posts. I ended up using Bondo, which is for car body work and it worked out just great. I dug down into the posts and removed all of the bad wood and poured in the Bondo, which dried quickly as hard as a rock and was super easy to sand even with the edges of the 4 x 4's and then painted the white Bondo patches brown to match the railing and it looked great and still does nearly a year later. Sorry for all the detail, but I think I will remove the door and lay it flat and then tape around the edge of all of the good cladding. Then I will apply the Bondo and make it a little bit higher than the surrounding cladding, let it dry and then sand. If it doesn't stay affixed to the door, then I might redo after drilling small holes into the core of the door where the Bondo can flow into to hopefully hold the repair in place. And for the person who talked about screwing a board against the door to make a strong temporary clamp, you could fill the holes with Bondo after removing the screws and the Bondo should work great and since it is white, no painting would be necessary. I hope this is helpful information.
Thanks Pete, just bought a new house a noticed the same issue but was just starting. I knew I wasn’t the only one to have this issue. Thanks for making this video! I know it has saved a lot of people $$$. Did you end up putting a sort of top/finish coat in the end to create a smooth bevel for water to run down?
Did not top coat. Every year or two I put a new skim coat of weathermaster where bottom of window meets door panel. All repairs still holding up after years! Please subscribe to my channel. Thanks
Hi Bjorn. It’s been about a month since you messaged me did you get to do your door yet? Thanks and please subscribe to my channel I am trying to build up the following
Nice fix. I have same problem but with a large 3" x 5" chip out of that exterior laminate. Can you or anyone put on their thinking cap again and let me know how you'd repair the chip?
I’ve got our four panels done, thank you so much! Mine need some neatening up, they don’t look as good as Pete’s, but that will wait until spring. It’s so good to have them weather proofed again and not warped open. Do you know if the loose inside door handles can be fixed? Ours looks like the kind of high half moon shape and I don’t know I’d the front button comes off to tighten it up.
Hi, Pete. I commented a week or two ago and am ready now to buy Titebond's WeatherMaster Sealant 44001, as you recommended. Went to Amazon to order and it is not on Prime, right now, and the cost is $6.32. Right next to it they had Titebond WeatherMaster MP Sealant 71001 at a cost of $11.52 on Prime. Don't know if this was available when you did your doors, but it appears as if it might be better according to the reviews 5 stars instead of 4. 44001 claims superior polymer technology, while MP 71001 claims it outperforms silicone, urethane and tripolymer sealants. I usually like to buy the best and don't mind spending $11.52 vs. $6.32. I am no expert and don't know the difference between polymer, tripolymer, and a hound dog. I don't even know what polymer or tripolymer mean. Would appreciate your thoughts as to MP being okay, as I am poised to buy it unless you give me any valid negatives. Thanks, much. Your video posting is a great community service to us Andersen wounded souls. John M.
@@poundridgepete I put in an order for the MP and will give it a shot once it arrives and the wife's other pressing (endless) honey do's are out of the way. Will report back to you if I have any issues. Will follow your instructions, but it may take years to see if there are any problems. Also, am going to try bondo where some of the cladding (about a 4" x 6" area) has come off and broken in pieces. Will let you know how that fares, as well. Take care.
@@poundridgepete Pete: I got my first side of a slider done using the WeatherMaster MP Sealant 71001, and it worked great, as far as I can tell - seems to have grabbed tight real quickly and stayed that way . It says you can apply it down to zero degrees. Hopefully, it will hold up as long as your application with the WeatherMaster Polymer Sealant 44001. Since you have spoken to the manufacturer, it would be cool if you could check and see what they say about the MP vs. the Polymer, as maybe the MP is a relatively new product???? I haven't got time, as I am trying to do this, get to closing down a pool, babysitting grandchildren, doing honeydo's, and trying to write my first novel (am up to 20K words) LOL. Anyway, I chose to take the doors off (2nd off now and 1st is temporarily back in place) and put them on two small ladder platform stands which are about a foot and a half high and about about 2 1/2 feet long and about a foot wide, if you know what I mean - as am using them as super sawhorses, stradleing the door across them, one at each end. I chose to have them off and on sawhorses because the first one had an area on the bottom on one side where the cladding had broken off into pieces and left the exposed wood underneath in an irregularly shaped area about 4" x 6". I think it had been that way for at least 2 or 3 years, and I was amazed that there was absolutely no rot or softness to the wood under the cladding. So at least I give Andersen credit for using wood that doesn't seem to rot even when exposed to the elements for a long time. Anyway, the important point I want to convey here is that I chose to take the door off and put it on the sawhorses to try and repair the exposed wood with Bondo (the putty version - about $13 a can) more comfortably in a horizontal fashion rather than vertical if still mounted in door frame. Glad I did that because it made it easier, as it is bad enough working with Bondo as you have to work fast, as dries quickly (which resulted in me having to mix up a 2nd batch as the first dried before I could finish). I was worried that it wouldn't hold on the smooth wood underlayment, but it seems to be holding tight - but the jury is out if it will last or not. I masking taped around the surrounding area and spread the Bondo out past the broken area and sanded it all smooth and flush with the surrounding cladding. Unfortunately, if you are not careful, you can accidentally sand too much and remove a bit of the surface layer of the cladding down to the brown material underneath, like I did - and I think the person who said it is Formica is right. So, after I got done I chose to paint over the repair, including onto the surrounding area of cladding - so I taped off a rectangle (about 1/2 a square foot), which included the irregular jagged area where the cladding was gone and out on the Formica to the tape. Then I painted and it looks like a different and shinier white, but what can you do. I didn't want to just leave the Bondo unpainted and I wanted to cover the couple of small brown spots that oversanding caused on the surrounding Formica with paint. - Okay, so now I am on the 2nd panel (stationary panel) of the door and that also had a good reason to go horizontal on sawhorses - because on the horizontal cladding on the bottom of the glass, there was some sort of very hard fungus growing in 2 spots. I razor bladed both spots off, and fortunately, one of them had not penetrated under the cladding so I will just clean that area well with alcohol, dry and put over a dab of the WeatherMaster. The other spot, however, had the fungus also growing down into/below the separated cladding. about a half inch to an inch or so. I first used a dental tool with sharp pointed ends to pull out most of the fungus. The rest I had to get out by going back and forth/in and out against the wood underlayment beneath the Formica with a loose hacksaw blade. I got most of it out and the Formica does now seem to depress to the underlayment when you press down on it. So, that's where I am, now, and I broke for lunch. Will go back, now and maybe do a little more scraping and vacuuming to get any final fungus particles out before sealing everything with WeatherMaster. By the way, there is quite a gap between the first door I did (the sliding/locking side), which I temporarily mounted back in place and the screen. There are stinkbugs trying to come in for the Winter so I plugged that (about 1 1/2") gap temporarily with rolled sections of newspaper stacked vertically on one another. Sorry, about such a long post, but I think anyone with the same problems will appreciate knowing this stuff. And to think I would have never even attempted this if you hadn't shown me the way with your video. Thanks, again!! Besides that, I am 78 years old and half crazy.
Oh, forgot to mention that when you have doors horizontal on sawhorses it is obviously really easy to place weights or heavy objects over WeatherMastered areas to hold the cladding down while the sealant dries. But I will be using your method when I do my one French door that is having a cladding separation problem without door removal - vertical repair.
One last thing. I didn't have a tongue depresser so I used a popsicle stick, but then I switched to a one inch scraper and like that better as it is thinner than a tongue depresser and popsicle stick. Worked better for me but the downside was having to clean the caulk off of it. I used paper towels soaked w. rubbing alcohol, but it was a time consuming pain before I could get totally clean.
Hey Pete, Thanks for the info. Anderson< a great product, only wanted to sell me more doors. Great usage of the step latter! I used a bigger board behind it. The weights we a good call. I could not get the Weather master @ home depot ( only on line and by the case) so I used Gorilla glue products. Fantastic result. Thanks for sharing. a huge help. --DJH
Same problem, but my doors are only 9 years old. Andersen would not replace them as they were already replaced once under wanted at 8 years old . Andersen would not stand behind them even though they are obviously defective. The end result was a porous for seal that leaked into the bedroom and damaged the floor and carpeting. Both need to be replaced as part of an insurance claim. This problem has been going on for at least 20 years and Andersen has not corrected it.
Hey Pete. Awesome solution for the Anderson cladding separation. I was just about to use epoxy but saw your video. My only question is about longevity. Your video is a few years old and I'm wondering how the solution has held up. I see someone else asked the same question and his response makes it sound as if you responded but there is no response in the comments. Can you please let us know if it is still intact? Winter here in KC are similar to the northeast so any feedback you provide should be relevant. Thanks in advance for your response and I really enjoyed your video.
Hi Ken thanks for asking! Yes my doors are still holding up very well thank you. We are now into June 2021 So yes it’s been quite a few years. Please subscribe to my channel trying to build up a following thanks and let me know how you make out
My problem is at the bottom of each door where about a 4 inch section is rotted on each side. Your door looks like the same problem is starting on the bottom of your door. Mine looked like that and when I pressed on it with a screwdriver it was like a sponge.
Looks like you are having a different problem than mine. Your Anderson door panels are rotting away. All mine still in good condition but peeling off. Obviously my solution will not work for you since your panels are rotted.
Wow, this is unbelievable! I have the exact same doors. Same results with Anderson, no help. Question: my door, the whole bottom panel sheared away from catching on sliding screen. Do you think this sealant should be applied to the whole panel to reaffix?
Thank you, Pete, very much for sharing the solution! My vinyl on the bottom of sliding door peeled off completely. I live in Los Angles. The weather is hot here. Is the Weather Master Sealant still good for hot weather? Could you please tell me how many WeatherMaster Sealant I need for the whole bottom of sliding door?
I just followed this exact technique on a 95 degree day in Virginia. It is curing now. I’m using bags of compost for weight. The Titebond tube says temperatures above 0 are all that’s required.
Hi Rick and to all other victims of Anderson's poor quality. What a coincidence that you just asked for an update! I just noticed yesterday I am getting a slight separation on the top of the panel below the glass on one of my door repairs. . I have basically ignored my repair because it was so good and nothing to report. I am buying a fresh tube of weathermaster and will recoat the top of the panel near the glass. The panel is not pulling away but if I don't recoat water will get in again. I will probably give a slight recoat to all my doors. So the repair has held up for years and now needs some Maintainance. Beats buying new doors!
Thank you! This happened to our doors too - shockingly started right after the warranty was over. Not very impressed with #AndersonWindows at this point.
Thanks Pete My problem is the cladding is buckling in the middle. Any recommendation to your installation? One thought I had is to separate the cladding all the way up the door and apply your product. Thoughts? Will
Great question William! The best thing to do is remove the entire panel as you thought and make sure the panel is not warped before putting it back on. You can watch some TH-cam on how to unwrap a board but basically you have to wet the wood and then put a weight on it to make it flat and let it dry in the sun. This is especially important because that panel can warp so severely it can interfere with your screen door sliding! Please let me know how your repair Goes and please subscribe to my channel I need the support. Pete
Thank you for taking the time to create this video. It was beyond helpful. We also had 10 separate Anderson sliders circa 1997/1998. There was a lot of peeling of the outside vinyl cladding and my husband was able to clean out all the grub under the horizontal section of the panel with a plastic knife (instead of a tongue depressor), weatherproof the vertical sections with the Titebond and fix the horizonal sections that were coming off. I cannot tell you how much money this saved ! Also, thank you to the person who provided the link for the Titebond.
Thank you for the video. Like yourself and so many others my 20 year old Anderson door cladding has begun to delaminate last Fall. The recommendation from two local dealers and Anderson was to buy a new door even though all I wanted to buy was just the vinyl piece on the bottom center of the doors. I have two other gliders with no issues and about 14 double hung or slider windows on the house and garage. So quite disappointed with the lack of support or concern from Anderson.
I removed the laminate entirely from the fixed door today and found that the 3/8 plywood outer frame behind the vinyl was also loose across the whole door which possibly contributed to the cladding to lift off. My next step will be to remove the scattered adhesive from the door and vinyl, refasten the plywood frame portion with Titebond as you recommend, and reattach the vinyl with exterior bracing for a day or so as you recommend. Many Thanks!
Thank you Pete. I have the same problem on my “Frenchwood” doors. Peeling in multiple places. In my case the bottom panels where to far gone. I ended up peeling the bottoms panels vinyl off, sanding glue off, using wood filler as needed for rotting section. Sanding wood filler, prime bare wood. Took sample of bottom panel to get matching paint and painted bottom of both doors. On the vertical sides of door I am in the process of getting “Weathermaster Sealant” and following your tutorial. Thank you for this valuable lesson, Bill S
Thank you I got the same issue and Andersen said the same thing to me. I was thinking of doing a repair with glue as well but your video is terrific. Thanks again.
A couple of points to mention. These Anderson doors (and windows) are often referred to as vinyl clad. They are not. The exterior cladding was actually a laminate similar to what is used on kitchen counters and the like, i.e. Formica. If the separation is caught early the sealant referred to in the video should work. Unfortunately if left to mother nature mildew (due to the moisture) will soon attack the wood behind the peeling laminate and it will begin to deteriorate.
In our situation we ended up taking the sliding & stationary panels out of the frame and removing the exterior cladding. We ended up painting the doors with good exterior paint. On the sliding panel 3 of the 4 pieces just peeled right off. The top piece we used a belt sander. On the stationary panel 2 of the pieces peeled off easily and the other 2 were removed by use of the sander. We did this for a couple of reasons. On one of the panels the a portion of the laminate cladding broke off one day while closing the door. Trying to glue it back really wasn't an option espacially when we saw some of the wood black with mildew. Also some of the wood on the lower portion had to be repaired. Mildew was treated with bleach before painting. How long this will last remains to be seen.
Really disappointed with what I thought was a lifetime no maintenance door from Anderson.
Same with what happened to my door. I wish I had looked for this video when trying to repair one of the panels. The cladding on the bottom broke in half when the screen slid past the protrusion. I ended up ripping it off and tried using wood putty as a filler. I'll likely redo it as it looks really rigged right now but it has held up. But just noticed the other stationary panel bottom cladding is starting to warp and peel away.
I may look for replacement laminate to cover that wood putty filler I rigged up.
@@pooneej Were you able to find replacement sheets?
Thanks Pete, I am having the same issues and same response from Anderson. They should be ashamed of themselves.
Not only did my cladding laminate come apart in many areas, also on the lower sections below the window of the door and below the side window panels, the wood split as well. 3 identical 8”X21” sections. I cut new 8”X21” pieces of plywood and I’m about to begin the process of gluing it to the existing wood and perfectly bringing it to the surface level of the rest of the door. After doing a lot of research I believe the laminate is called HPL (High pressured laminate). I’ve been thinking of ordering HPL and adhering it to my cut 8”X21” panels before gluing them permanently to the existing wood sections.
As much as I would like to do this, it is taking time, and I want to get this project finished. I’ve already primed and painted those 8”x 21“ sections and they are ready to be installed/glued.
I shared this for any of your followers having this issue m. It can be fixed and it is not that hard.
Thank you for your video. I’m glad I saw it before I used the bonding adhesive I bought. I will return it and buy the one you mentioned. Thanks again.
Thank you for finally giving me an idea of what I can do with our Anderson doors. When we called Anderson they told us the same thing-We need to spend $8-10k for a new set of doors when it was just some vinyl panel lifting. It seems outrageous that there was not other option. Thankful to have come across your Very helpful video. Wish me luck!
Spot On!!! Weathermaster Sealant works. Mineral Spirits desolves the left over sealant in the applicator tip so you can use it repeatedly. Excellent video! Thanks Peter! Ladders and dumbells are a great way to compress the repair. Careful not to permanently attach the ladder (braces) to your sliding glass door! Smile.
Hi Pete, Thank you so much for saving me thousands of dollars!!!! I have six sets of Anderson sliding doors that face the WEST. I live in Las Vegas so the sun gets really hot and just destroys the bottom of those doors. I called Anderson and they said I needed to replace the damaged doors. I went on TH-cam and found your amazing video. Thank you so much!!! Your explanation was so detailed and clear to follow. Super easy! We just finished fixing four sets of doors. Thank you again. Lisa
My hat is off to you for solving this problem that is the exact same issues i have i mean EXACT PROBLEMS
Anderson was a good product ONCE ! when they covered the wood so it would Last they defeated the purpose
it's only good for around 20 years and like you say they tell you SORRY YOU NEED TO BUY NEW DOORS!
We bought 5 door systems from them for the reason it was a one time buy with total protection from the weather
No it was not i would of been better buying all WOOD on the outside and paint them , i'm in the same boat you were
i opened the screen Duct Tape to hold this so i could use the screen - upon a closer look the wood under this material
wood-chips
Repair still good. Hope you did it already! Please subscribe to my channel if you found my video helpful! Thanks Pete
I have the same problem and will be fixing it this summer. Thank you for the information. I paid a lot of extra money like we all dead to have a worry proof door for a lifetime. I won’t ever buy another Anderson product.
Thank you. I am in the same boat and ordering this now! Amazing how you outsmarted Anderson. Love it!
Big THANKS, Pete. We have glued and re-glued the vinyl panels on our doors over the years and nothing seems to hold. With winter ending, the problem is back and this time we will use your method. For the money Andersen charges for these doors, I am very disappointed in the quality of their product. Job well done!
Pete, thanks for taking your time to document and post your idea. I specifically bought an Anderson slider door their quality. I didn't realize that i was getting poor quality! Your slider looks exactly like mine but only the lower corners are peeling on mine. I guess that I got lucky or maybe Maryland winters aren't as brutal as yours are. I'm planning on giving it a try. My only suggestion for a slight improvement would be to give the part number for the sealant that you used. I think it's 44001 but I'm not positive. Thanks! HJS. 🙂
@Pete from NY. Thank you for the great tips re: fixing my Anderson Patio Doors. I had the same issues as you, e.g., the cladding was separating from the outside of the doors. I followed your instructions and used the Weathermaster sealant product, and braced the repairs during curing (using wood boards and weights)..and Voila! Next step...some white paint and should look like new. Thank you for taking the time to share your great ideas with us.
THANK YOU!! Just discovered this problem on my Anderson sliding door this morning when the screen door would not slide open. First stop, youtube and I found you. Exactly what I needed. Headed to the hardware store now for Weathermaster Sealant. Love, love, love your "clamps".
Same problem with my 20 year old Anderson French doors. Was going to try to glue it. Glad I found your video. Anderson was no help. Told to replace them. Thank you
Thank you for your video. I also have french doors / sliders installed in 1999 that are delaminating. I compared to a 6 year old (installed 2014) slider and Andersen changed the laminating design (adding a drip edge and covering the lamination seam). Thankfully I found your video and repaired the doors using the Titebond Weathermaster Sealant. Andersen should be ashamed for not publishing a similar fix. They certainly know of the design defect.
Thanks Jeff. It’s amazing that they do not offer help and repairing this problem with seems quite common according to the number of views on my video. Please subscribe to my channel it helps me get my messages out. Thanks
Super job, sir! You were correct at the start of the start of the video: I was seeing you because I am having the same problem after - wait for it - 22 years! I’ve got to hustle this morning though to catch the nice day before our first winter weather system blows in tomorrow. I hope mine aren’t too damaged but I think with your help, they’re savable. Great post! 👊
I Installed Anderson windows (and a Frenchwood Patio Door) throughout my newly built home in 1999, twenty-one years ago. I too have the exact same problem, and despite spending hours on the phone with Anderson, they wouldn’t budge, their only solution was to replace the panels at a cost of $1700 each. I ask if I could purchase new laminate material and was told no. The only thing worse than their doors is their customer service. As I explained to them, I will never purchase another Anderson product as long as I live. Thanks for sharing your solution.
Pete, You are my hero! As I was watching this video I kept saying that’s me, that’s me, that’s just like my doors! Having same exact problem on the same exact doors in the same exact spot and I got the same exact answers from Anderson as you did. I also had the same reaction of no way paying $5000 plus installation!! I previously tried Flexseal and regular caulk and even tried nailing the vinyl with tiny tacks all to no avail. Going to order some of this product and give it a go! I will let you know how it works and thank you so much! Love your innovative clamp solution! 😀😀👍👍
Hi Kristin. Thanks so much for your kind words! Yes my math it will save you thousands of dollars! Please let me know how you made out and please subscribe to my channel
Me too, Kristin!! Thank you, Pete! When you said you had ten panels, I just groaned - we only have four. Tried Flexsealast year but it didn’t really work. Your clamping is brilliant and I got the first one done today. I used shims to push the sealant in because I couldn’t get tongue depressors. 😊 👍
It really is amazing how all our doors failed just after the 20 year warranty, very disappointed in Andersen products. Our French doors are 22 years old.
I followed your directions exactly yesterday and it turned out perfectly. Thanks for your help.
This is the exact solution that I need.
You remind me of my father. Thank you!
Have same problem but worse with Andersen Doors, thanks for taking the time, I’ll definitely try your method, thanks again
Thank you Pete, wish I had seen this when we first had the problem. Having same issue, your solution is amazing. Will be sure to try it in Hope's to save our doors.
So happy to hear with Pete’s solution, the cladding is holding up fine after a few years. 👍
Pete, thanks for saving me thousands of dollars🙏, the amount I have to pay Andersen to replace my twin patio sliding doors. That’s their ONLY solution 🤔. Will get the sealant tomorrow.
The bottom section of the stripping between my sliding and stationary doors is tearing. Must be caused by the separating cladding. Does anyone know how to repair the stripping ?
Thanks for making this video. Helped me in the exact situation.
Thank you! Like the others I am having the same problem with the laminate detaching from the plywood backing. In my case I let it go too far and the plywood is now warping. My fault for not seeking out a solution earlier. I'm now research laminate/formica sheets to apply to the plywood backing (once I get that straightened out). I appreciate how you take the time in your video to methodically go through the repair step by step. Great job! I have liked the video and subscribed to your channel!
Update - ordered HPL from Woodworkers Express. Thickness seems to match up nicely. Fingers crossed.
"Low maintenance" products like vinyl and other plastic-based products are a scourge. They're only low maintenance because there's almost no maintenance you can do before you have to send it to the landfill.
Thanks for the video, Peter. I'll be trying your method soon, but I'll also be buying solid wood doors next time...the finish/paint applied to the wood will require maintenance every couple years, but if done properly the wood will last for generations, which is how it should be when you spend thousands of dollars.
Thanks for a great repair video. Absolutely no help from Andersen except for very expensive replacement. I’m sure they get many calls you’d think they would suggest watching your video. Fantastic!!!
Great thinking! You did a great job on those beautiful French Doors.
Thank you for this wonderful video! My husband and I just cid one of our patio doors- tomorrow (24 hrs later) we will ck results.
Thanks Pete. Just discovered the same problem on 21 year old doors in Michigan. I will try your method with the material adhesive you used. I am also married to a nurse, lol!
Exceptional tutorial Pete...THANKS from Maine. We tried "gluing' the separating cladding also with little success. Now to use your technique.
BTW our friend, retired Marvin zone manager for Maine, said that Marvin French door cladding does not separate. We used Anderson since they were much less cost than the same Marvin French doors ( close to 2X the price ).
Marvin probably way better but $$$$$.Please subscribe to my channel.if you found my video helpful! Thanks Pete
Thank you for posting this video. I had some of the same issues that you did but only on the bottom panels. I ordered the Titebond from Amazon, I believe. I waited for a dry day, cleaned it all out, applied the Titebond and pushed up a board to it and secured it with an extension pole with applied pressure from a tire jack that was up against my deck. Worked like a charm. Thanks again!
I’m in the process of repairing mine. I let it go too long. I contacted Anderson. I think it may have been under warranty or maybe not. Anyway they were going to replace the two glass panels with the issue for half the price for $800 each. The panel came completely off one of the doors. So my mom found similar material at Menards. I will paint and glue using the glue you suggested for the repairs and let you know. I’m just getting to this 9 years later!
Thank you for taking the time to show us this method. I will be trying it as soon as my Weathermaster sealant arrives.....
Thank you for this! I wish I would have seen it a couple of years ago. I threw away one whole panel as it was hanging on by a thread but I will repair what I can with the sealant!
Same problem just discovered with my Anderson French sliding door installed in 2000. Not acceptable as far as I am concerned
Try putting the adhesive in a marinade injector for easier application.
Nice fix. The repair looks great. Thanks for taking the time to make the video
Awesome video!!! Thanks for sharing! My sliding door is peeling at the bottom like you showed. Wasn’t sure what to use as what I originally tried didn’t seal properly. Will try this next month to see if it solves my problem!
Thank you for teaching me this Technique, I had had the same problem. Next time it occurs I will know what to do!
Jeff Garrard @thank you
I have the same problem I will be attempting this today. Thank you.
Thanks Pete! My Anderson doors are now doing the same thing. I was going to try contact cement and thought, why not do a quick search and see what others are doing? This is way easier! Thanks!
Thank you for this very helpful video! Add me to the list of folks whose Andersen clad doors began to separate at 22 years!! I have the sealant you recommend on order. Thanks again!!
Great! Please subscribe to my channel
f you found my video helpful! Thanks Pete
I have the exact situation you have. Thanks for your solution. Anderson quoted me a price of over $1000.
Yup! Anderson wants your $$$$$. I helped you for free, Enjoy sharing my solution.Please subscribe to my channel if you found my video helpful! Thanks Pete
Thank you, Pete! I am having the exact same problem, and was dreading having to buy a new door. I'm going to order that Weathermaster product and tackle this myself.
That crack you have on the bottom right is how mine started. Under that is rot. Also, remove the tape right away it comes out neater
Thank you for this. I was going to try another product but will try this instead.
Thanks Pete. You are my hero. I told my husband and he said he would try this product. Our sliders were installed in 1997. That's a long time, but do you know how much it costs today to replace them today? $5,000 to $10,000. Of course, Anderson wants you to buy new sliders. What do you expect! Thank you.
So happy to be YOUR Hero! Please subscribe to my channel. Thanks Pete
Great tips & great savings! Million thanks Pete !
Hey Pete! Ingenious idea. I am curious how they are holding up after a few years.
Still holding up fine!
Thanks, Pete. Would you provide an update based on condition of the repaired areas after exposure to winter weather? I, too, contacted Andersen, and they were unwilling provide any meaningful compensation since the warranty period had expired. The lesson learned is that Andersen charges a premium price, but this product is much below premium quality since it has a well-known design/manufacturing defect. Andersen, despite its advertising, does not stand behind its products. My experience has been that other manufacturers will replace, at no cost to consumer, products that failed when clearly due to design/manufacturing defects, regardless of warranty status.
Thanks, Peter, for the update. Sounds good. Regarding your method for applying pressure to the repaired areas. Did you ever consider screwing pieces of wood (e.g., battens) temporarily into the core of the door to hold the vinyl cladding firmly in place while the sealant is curing? Then, after curing, remove the screws and fill the small screw holes with, possibly, an epoxy fairing compound. It seems to me that this method would apply a great deal more pressure for the curing process than would ladders, etc. Also, I have one door where the vinyl cladding really should be replaced. Any ideas about where to obtain suitable replacement vinyl?
wish I had seen this sooner. I put in silicone and glue and then put in tiny screws to hold the vinyl down as it did not look like the space between the vinyl and the door was tightly closed. And a clamping solution revolution to boot. I called Anderson as well - they had no solution. Surprising! My opinion of Anderson products is significantly less than it used to be!
Good Job Pete! Yes, mine (Frenchwood Sliding door) did the same, as well as my Andersen casement windows collapsed and fogged right after the warranty period was over. Something about an Andersen screwup with the Argon case between the double panes leaking out. By collapse I mean they no longer have a space between the panes in the middle. Ruins the insulating ability of the window and they fog up. Bottom line.....Andersen does not stand behind their products. I think they made a good product years ago and built up a good reputation....Then....they made crap and don't stand behind their products (riding on the name)....Really too bad.....I would never recommend Andersen products to anyone! Had to replace window sashes and they were more expensive than the whole original window. I also replaced a frenchwood door panel . Your video is great and can help a lot of people who are stuck with these lousy products! Thanks Again!
Thanks for the kind words Steve. That is the purpose of my video to save people money and keep it out of Anderson’s pocket
I have the exact same doors! all 6 of mine have the exact same damage on the bottom. I did not know what do and was just planning on replacing and so with time and sun the vinyl came off and on some a bit of wood is rotting... Now after finding this I'm going to try and fix it! I need to find some vinyl to put over it.
Good luck on your repair Leo. Let me know how you make out and please subscribe to my channel thank you
Great solution!! I have the same issue will order the sealant and get to work.
We are going to try your suggestion.
Great Rita - have u done it? Lemme know how it turns out
Pete -- Oh gosh; we are a victim too, and spent yesterday applying your method to our Andersens. Our case is somewhat more advanced than yours but we are hopeful than we can get a few more years out of the doors in so doing.
However i have a comment that you and your followers may find of value: i recalled enough of my high school physic's static analysis to determine that the horizontal thrust on the spreader plate at the door -- which you want to maximize -- MUST EQUAL the horizontal thrust (in the other direction!) of the friction patch contacting the deck or other surface by your ladder/strut/furniture/whatever.
In view of that fact i fabricated a little flange from cheap brackets i bought at the hardware store; the purpose of the flange is to fit into my deck's "slots" between the planking, and connected to 2x4s i use for struts. Unlike the thrust apparatus connecting to the door that you used, Pete, this flange does not depend on friction contact with the deck to provide the opposing thrust at the point of contact. Once that flange is in the deck's planking slots it will provide any reasonable thrust to the door. i protect the deck's finish with a simple patch of old felt over the flange prior to slipping into the deck. My simple strut -- with said flange -- combined with weight (garden paving stones in my case) yield all the thrust i need on the door for Weathermaster curing.
i would be happy to send photos if you wish and give me an email address; i cannot attach them here apparently.
-- gary
Brilliant! I loved the innovative clamping techniques. Thanks.
You've given me hope.
Any update on how the fix has lasted?
Also, I can appreciate your "critique" regarding Andersen "assistance".
Let me just add a rant about Pella.
If you don't know, you ASSuME that Andersen & Pella are premium products.
Just assume the only thing premium is the price.
I have Pella windows & doors that have failed. Not warranty even though it's a design flaw.
And they don't make anything that matches so it's either repair on my own or replace EVERY window & door.
Again, thanks for the tip and also the opportunity to rant a little bit.
Good info, thanks for making the video.
Thank you Pete same issue with my French wood doors
Nice video Pete. I have the same problem but found that using white gorilla adhesive tape is much quicker and looks fine if applied carefully.
Creative solution Fred. I’m glad gorilla tape for you I will keep it in mind for future projects
Is your gorilla tape still holding up in the outdoor conditions?
Helped a lot thankyou for the tips
Have already replaced one panel. I have two more failing panels. Andersen gave me a discount, but the staining of the panels and installation was even more. Andersen did admit it was an manufacturing problem that has since been fixed. I will give this fix a try. If it does not work long term, I will replace - But not with Andersen! I will never recommend them. I have 12 total panels not installed at the same time I am hoping the later ones do not have the generic failure.
This video is great keep it coming!
Hi, Pete. Thanks so much for posting the video and for all of the other commenters and their helpful information, as well. I was wondering if you ever considered just using Super Glue, as it seems easier to use and since it is more or less liquid in form, it seems as if it would go further down into the depths of the separation of the cladding from the wood and form a more complete bond? I have 2 Andersen french doors and 1 older slider from 1996. One of the french doors has some separation just like yours on one edge in 2 spots, which I first noticed a long time ago - probably around 10 years or so ago. I contacted Andersen and they sent me a replacement, which I just never got around to installing. It is still boxed and in my garage. Fortunately for me, the existing door has remained about in the same condition and did not really get worse. However, I will now soon, probably use your method and see how well it works and just leave the boxed door in the garage just in case. Both of the french doors, by the way are on the back of my house, which gets full sun most all day long. The slider, however is on the North side of my Maryland home, and is in the shade a lot of the day. It has similar cladding separation as yours on one side/edge of both the sliding panel and the stationary panel - in both cases on the outer edge next to the frame. I can use the same method for those issues, however, there is an area about 4 inches by 6 inches on the front bottom panel, where the cladding has broken off in pieces. I can either clean and lightly sand that area and paint it and maintain by repeat painting over the years or use another method I will now mention. That method I successfully used last year, which lasted through last winter and still looks fine - however, it was a slightly different application than a door. I have an overhead balcony on the front of my house over the front porch and entry door. That balcony is surrounded by a wooden railing attached four 4 x 4 pressure treated and painted posts. Due to inattention, some of the flat boards over top of the rail pickets and the posts themselves had areas of rot - and in the posts it was up to a couple of inches deep in spots. I replaced the top rails with PVC boards and painted, but the main problem was with the posts. I ended up using Bondo, which is for car body work and it worked out just great. I dug down into the posts and removed all of the bad wood and poured in the Bondo, which dried quickly as hard as a rock and was super easy to sand even with the edges of the 4 x 4's and then painted the white Bondo patches brown to match the railing and it looked great and still does nearly a year later. Sorry for all the detail, but I think I will remove the door and lay it flat and then tape around the edge of all of the good cladding. Then I will apply the Bondo and make it a little bit higher than the surrounding cladding, let it dry and then sand. If it doesn't stay affixed to the door, then I might redo after drilling small holes into the core of the door where the Bondo can flow into to hopefully hold the repair in place. And for the person who talked about screwing a board against the door to make a strong temporary clamp, you could fill the holes with Bondo after removing the screws and the Bondo should work great and since it is white, no painting would be necessary. I hope this is helpful information.
@@poundridgepete Thanks for the reply, Pete! I will let you know my experiences once I get on this project. I might wait until it gets a bit cooler.
th-cam.com/video/SqjLTU7Hwn8/w-d-xo.html Check out this link for a vinyl repair.
Thank you for posting this Sir! I have the exact same problem.
Hope you did it already! Please subscribe to my channel if you found my video helpful! Thanks Pete
good idea, you should have wiped the dirt off the trim before applying as well.
Over a 100 views in a day! Congrats peter
When you are doing your top coat just just a small painters scraper to level the surface off as seen in glazing an old style window with putty.
Yes good tool for smoothing.Please subscribe to my channel if you found my video helpful!
Thanks Pete, just bought a new house a noticed the same issue but was just starting. I knew I wasn’t the only one to have this issue. Thanks for making this video! I know it has saved a lot of people $$$. Did you end up putting a sort of top/finish coat in the end to create a smooth bevel for water to run down?
Did not top coat. Every year or two I put a new skim coat of weathermaster where bottom of window meets door panel. All repairs still holding up after years! Please subscribe to my channel. Thanks
PERFECT! Im will follow your directions! Thank you! Thank you!
Hi Bjorn. It’s been about a month since you messaged me did you get to do your door yet? Thanks and please subscribe to my channel I am trying to build up the following
Pete. It has been 6 years since your Anderson patio door repair was done. How is your bonding job holding up?
Nice fix. I have same problem but with a large 3" x 5" chip out of that exterior laminate. Can you or anyone put on their thinking cap again and let me know how you'd repair the chip?
good job
thanks for this great video! My vinyl game off on the bottom completely. Any idea where I can get white vinyl? I already ordered the sealant!
Mine are coming off too. I am ordering custom metal kick plates that are not that expensive.
I’ve got our four panels done, thank you so much! Mine need some neatening up, they don’t look as good as Pete’s, but that will wait until spring. It’s so good to have them weather proofed again and not warped open.
Do you know if the loose inside door handles can be fixed? Ours looks like the kind of high half moon shape and I don’t know I’d the front button comes off to tighten it up.
Great video Pete, my expensive Andersen door wall is doing the same. How's it holding up after a few years?
Hi, Pete. I commented a week or two ago and am ready now to buy Titebond's WeatherMaster Sealant 44001, as you recommended. Went to Amazon to order and it is not on Prime, right now, and the cost is $6.32. Right next to it they had Titebond WeatherMaster MP Sealant 71001 at a cost of $11.52 on Prime. Don't know if this was available when you did your doors, but it appears as if it might be better according to the reviews 5 stars instead of 4. 44001 claims superior polymer technology, while MP 71001 claims it outperforms silicone, urethane and tripolymer sealants. I usually like to buy the best and don't mind spending $11.52 vs. $6.32. I am no expert and don't know the difference between polymer, tripolymer, and a hound dog. I don't even know what polymer or tripolymer mean. Would appreciate your thoughts as to MP being okay, as I am poised to buy it unless you give me any valid negatives. Thanks, much. Your video posting is a great community service to us Andersen wounded souls. John M.
@@poundridgepete I put in an order for the MP and will give it a shot once it arrives and the wife's other pressing (endless) honey do's are out of the way. Will report back to you if I have any issues. Will follow your instructions, but it may take years to see if there are any problems. Also, am going to try bondo where some of the cladding (about a 4" x 6" area) has come off and broken in pieces. Will let you know how that fares, as well. Take care.
@@poundridgepete Pete: I got my first side of a slider done using the WeatherMaster MP Sealant 71001, and it worked great, as far as I can tell - seems to have grabbed tight real quickly and stayed that way . It says you can apply it down to zero degrees. Hopefully, it will hold up as long as your application with the WeatherMaster Polymer Sealant 44001. Since you have spoken to the manufacturer, it would be cool if you could check and see what they say about the MP vs. the Polymer, as maybe the MP is a relatively new product???? I haven't got time, as I am trying to do this, get to closing down a pool, babysitting grandchildren, doing honeydo's, and trying to write my first novel (am up to 20K words) LOL. Anyway, I chose to take the doors off (2nd off now and 1st is temporarily back in place) and put them on two small ladder platform stands which are about a foot and a half high and about about 2 1/2 feet long and about a foot wide, if you know what I mean - as am using them as super sawhorses, stradleing the door across them, one at each end. I chose to have them off and on sawhorses because the first one had an area on the bottom on one side where the cladding had broken off into pieces and left the exposed wood underneath in an irregularly shaped area about 4" x 6". I think it had been that way for at least 2 or 3 years, and I was amazed that there was absolutely no rot or softness to the wood under the cladding. So at least I give Andersen credit for using wood that doesn't seem to rot even when exposed to the elements for a long time. Anyway, the important point I want to convey here is that I chose to take the door off and put it on the sawhorses to try and repair the exposed wood with Bondo (the putty version - about $13 a can) more comfortably in a horizontal fashion rather than vertical if still mounted in door frame. Glad I did that because it made it easier, as it is bad enough working with Bondo as you have to work fast, as dries quickly (which resulted in me having to mix up a 2nd batch as the first dried before I could finish). I was worried that it wouldn't hold on the smooth wood underlayment, but it seems to be holding tight - but the jury is out if it will last or not. I masking taped around the surrounding area and spread the Bondo out past the broken area and sanded it all smooth and flush with the surrounding cladding. Unfortunately, if you are not careful, you can accidentally sand too much and remove a bit of the surface layer of the cladding down to the brown material underneath, like I did - and I think the person who said it is Formica is right. So, after I got done I chose to paint over the repair, including onto the surrounding area of cladding - so I taped off a rectangle (about 1/2 a square foot), which included the irregular jagged area where the cladding was gone and out on the Formica to the tape. Then I painted and it looks like a different and shinier white, but what can you do. I didn't want to just leave the Bondo unpainted and I wanted to cover the couple of small brown spots that oversanding caused on the surrounding Formica with paint. - Okay, so now I am on the 2nd panel (stationary panel) of the door and that also had a good reason to go horizontal on sawhorses - because on the horizontal cladding on the bottom of the glass, there was some sort of very hard fungus growing in 2 spots. I razor bladed both spots off, and fortunately, one of them had not penetrated under the cladding so I will just clean that area well with alcohol, dry and put over a dab of the WeatherMaster. The other spot, however, had the fungus also growing down into/below the separated cladding. about a half inch to an inch or so. I first used a dental tool with sharp pointed ends to pull out most of the fungus. The rest I had to get out by going back and forth/in and out against the wood underlayment beneath the Formica with a loose hacksaw blade. I got most of it out and the Formica does now seem to depress to the underlayment when you press down on it. So, that's where I am, now, and I broke for lunch. Will go back, now and maybe do a little more scraping and vacuuming to get any final fungus particles out before sealing everything with WeatherMaster. By the way, there is quite a gap between the first door I did (the sliding/locking side), which I temporarily mounted back in place and the screen. There are stinkbugs trying to come in for the Winter so I plugged that (about 1 1/2") gap temporarily with rolled sections of newspaper stacked vertically on one another. Sorry, about such a long post, but I think anyone with the same problems will appreciate knowing this stuff. And to think I would have never even attempted this if you hadn't shown me the way with your video. Thanks, again!! Besides that, I am 78 years old and half crazy.
Oh, forgot to mention that when you have doors horizontal on sawhorses it is obviously really easy to place weights or heavy objects over WeatherMastered areas to hold the cladding down while the sealant dries. But I will be using your method when I do my one French door that is having a cladding separation problem without door removal - vertical repair.
One last thing. I didn't have a tongue depresser so I used a popsicle stick, but then I switched to a one inch scraper and like that better as it is thinner than a tongue depresser and popsicle stick. Worked better for me but the downside was having to clean the caulk off of it. I used paper towels soaked w. rubbing alcohol, but it was a time consuming pain before I could get totally clean.
Thanks again for your thoughtfulness
Neil S
Hey Pete, Thanks for the info. Anderson< a great product, only wanted to sell me more doors. Great usage of the step latter! I used a bigger board behind it. The weights we a good call. I could not get the Weather master @ home depot ( only on line and by the case) so I used Gorilla glue products. Fantastic result. Thanks for sharing. a huge help. --DJH
Same problem, but my doors are only 9 years old. Andersen would not replace them as they were already replaced once under wanted at 8 years old . Andersen would not stand behind them even though they are obviously defective. The end result was a porous for seal that leaked into the bedroom and damaged the floor and carpeting. Both need to be replaced as part of an insurance claim. This problem has been going on for at least 20 years and Andersen has not corrected it.
Genius thank you!!
Hey Pete. Awesome solution for the Anderson cladding separation. I was just about to use epoxy but saw your video. My only question is about longevity. Your video is a few years old and I'm wondering how the solution has held up. I see someone else asked the same question and his response makes it sound as if you responded but there is no response in the comments. Can you please let us know if it is still intact? Winter here in KC are similar to the northeast so any feedback you provide should be relevant. Thanks in advance for your response and I really enjoyed your video.
Hi Ken thanks for asking! Yes my doors are still holding up very well thank you. We are now into June 2021 So yes it’s been quite a few years. Please subscribe to my channel trying to build up a following thanks and let me know how you make out
@@poundridgepete Thanks Pete. I just subscribed. And I'm going to use your solution to fix my Anderson doors.
@@kenjennings9124 thanks for subscribing Ken!
Peter .. Im about to do this .. can give us the 15 month update? two winters?
My problem is at the bottom of each door where about a 4 inch section is rotted on each side. Your door looks like the same problem is starting on the bottom of your door. Mine looked like that and when I pressed on it with a screwdriver it was like a sponge.
Looks like you are having a different problem than mine. Your Anderson door panels are rotting away. All mine still in good condition but peeling off. Obviously my solution will not work for you since your panels are rotted.
great ideas for very little cost. This puts Andersen doors to shame
Wow, this is unbelievable! I have the exact same doors. Same results with Anderson, no help. Question: my door, the whole bottom panel sheared away from catching on sliding screen. Do you think this sealant should be applied to the whole panel to reaffix?
I would apply it to whole panel if accessible.Please subscribe to my channel. Thanks Pete
Same problem on mine. Very disappointing from an allegedly premium door maker. I will try your fix.
Hope you tried it! Larry!! Still good today! Please subscribe to my channel.if you found my video helpful! Thanks Pete
Thank you, Pete, very much for sharing the solution! My vinyl on the bottom of sliding door peeled off completely. I live in Los Angles. The weather is hot here. Is the Weather Master Sealant still good for hot weather? Could you please tell me how many WeatherMaster Sealant I need for the whole bottom of sliding door?
I just followed this exact technique on a 95 degree day in Virginia. It is curing now. I’m using bags of compost for weight. The Titebond tube says temperatures above 0 are all that’s required.
Was this causing water to leak into the house, or was it just the cladding peeling away? Thanks
Can you provide an update on how well the repair method you used has held up now that it is 2022?
Hi Rick and to all other victims of Anderson's poor quality. What a coincidence that you just asked for an update! I just noticed yesterday I am getting a slight separation on the top of the panel below the glass on one of my door repairs. . I have basically ignored my repair because it was so good and nothing to report. I am buying a fresh tube of weathermaster and will recoat the top of the panel near the glass. The panel is not pulling away but if I don't recoat water will get in again. I will probably give a slight recoat to all my doors. So the repair has held up for years and now needs some Maintainance. Beats buying new doors!
@@poundridgepete thanks for the update. So glad I found your video. No more Anderson doors or windows for me and my door is only 10 years old.
How do you change the weather stripping between the 2 patio doors?
Find a smaller but not needle fine syringe on Amazon and fill it with the product rather the then cumbersome calking gun. Just a thought.
Great suggestion. I use those sometimes! Please subscribe to my channel if you found my video helpful!
Thank you! This happened to our doors too - shockingly started right after the warranty was over. Not very impressed with #AndersonWindows at this point.
Anderson wants your$$$$! Please subscribe to my channel if you found my video helpful! Thanks Pete
After 32 years my Anderson sliders rotting from the bottom up. Why don't the use pressure treated wood so we don't have this problem?
Great video!
Thanks Pete
My problem is the cladding is buckling in the middle. Any recommendation to your installation?
One thought I had is to separate the cladding all the way up the door and apply your product. Thoughts?
Will
Great question William! The best thing to do is remove the entire panel as you thought and make sure the panel is not warped before putting it back on. You can watch some TH-cam on how to unwrap a board but basically you have to wet the wood and then put a weight on it to make it flat and let it dry in the sun. This is especially important because that panel can warp so severely it can interfere with your screen door sliding! Please let me know how your repair Goes and please subscribe to my channel I need the support. Pete