Hub Bearing Removal Made EASY!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มี.ค. 2023
- Removing a stubborn hub bearing in a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 using Lisle tool 40100 Hub Remover.
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Great way to damage the knuckle. Pulling it out at an angle.
That's what I was thinking also
Yeah… that can’t be good… the one time it doesn’t pay to be eccentric 😂
People always find something to complain about. Let your wife do the complaining and be the Alpha man that God created you to be.🤦🏾♂️ He got it done!!
@@masterpah1😊😊😊😊
@@kingisrael1532a "alpha man" takes constructive criticism and learns from it rather than doing things the wrong way out of hubris
It's better to smack the opposite side with a sledge as you are push with the bolt; causes it to walk out much better and less of a bind from pushing only on one side the whole time.
I agree. This video was demonstrating the tools ability so I just let her eat!
@@Tomsfoolery. Right on..
The instructions for this tool even say that you need to push on at least two different points. Looks like OP knows that's the best way but chose not to for whatever reason.
Was wondering that myself while slowly watching it gall the inside of the knuckle 😅
OP knows to persuade other side with hammer, grease the threads, etc.... I figure he chose to see how robust or how well tool holds up unassisted. Put it through the worst, how tough is this tool? Put it to the test I guess.... give it to 'er.
"If you fought with these hub bearings in the past, you may be entitled to compensation"
Wouldn’t that be great! 😂
😅😅😅😅
lol
Now that was funny.
😂😂😂😂😂 bro
A true pro doesn't bother removing the sensor. The customer will pay for it.
Bearing kit probably comes with a sensor as those tiny corroded fasteners look like a common failure point so you’d disconnect at the harness.
Plus you can see the shroud is split.
Dodge wheel bearings have the sensor on them when you buy them.
OEM Hubs come with a new sensor.
😂
Always had a good experience with Lisle and this tool looks handy. Two things though, please heavily GREASE the threads of the bolt so you don't bugger them up with the amount of force being applied and second, I would alternate from side to side so it comes out evenly and doesn't go lopsided and get stuck.
I did that ONCE and never again. When I hit the trigger on my impact, grease flung out EVERYWHERE including my face.
Doesn't the new hub assembly come with new studs? Cause I just got 2 rears for my cts and they did, but I do agree about switching sides and penetrating oil as well, I might even try this tool looks awesome
@@jimlewis1885yes the hub comes with new studs. He didn’t say anything about the studs tho. He said to grease the bolt on the tool that pushes the bearing out because of the forces that the bolt is under.
Remember kids, take your abs off first so it doesn't rip off after falling. Lol. From a friend.
*edit..... when I wrote this, I was being sarcastic. I know it's slightly difficult to read sarcasm via the interwebz. HOWEVER! Having the "kids" of today believing they "need" to do a little extra work was truly my goal. Especially when they break every time you try to pull them out. So yes, I totally understand the comments. Keep those hands safe gents!*
Love this
Iv done thousands never remove the abs sensors also never damaged one the plug is on the frame so that's just a cord ur seeing
Abs sensor already needs to be replaced to begin with, with a bearing that bad
Like every one said it comes with one, but if you look closely the wire harness is already done as well....
I was thinking the exact same thing!!
I was just thinking to myself, "what self respecting mechanic would press out the hub assembly with the ABS sensor STILL ATTACHED??!!".
You're effectively about to take a job costing approx $150-$200 and potentially adding another approx $75-$125 depending on the make & model of car you happen to be working on!!
So yeah, definitely not the brightest or most attentive move on his part!!
No doubt!!
Thankfully it doesn't appear as though the worst happened in this particular instance but still, not exactly setting the best example here either though!!
And I realize nobody is perfect but, when you're making videos trying to instruct others on how to do certain things DIY, then you should probably make your main focus about safety, efficiency, and frugality for those out there working with limited budgets.
So you don't want to teach them to do something the wrong way that could very well end up costing them more $$$ that they simply don't have because you didn't address this unfortunate & inattentive mistake by at least simply stating to the audience to remove the connection before getting started.
I mean, it really is just that simple.
Anyhow, thanks for listening/reading what I had to say and God bless you all!!
✌️😁👍
P.S.- After taking a closer look at the video, I happened to notice something fairly important that might very well explain why dude decided not to disconnect the ABS sensor/cable...and that's because, if you too take a closer look at the cable itself, you'll notice that there appears to be a substantial chunk out of the protective insulation/jacket surrounding the wires that transmit all that data back & forth between the sensor & ECU/PCM, so it was likely going to get replaced as well considering that, if those wires are exposed to the elements then they aren't likely going to give accurate and/or reliable information anyway, so dude just said to hell with it and let it hang!!
But that's still setting a bad example if he doesn't go back and properly address it IN FRONT OF HIS AUDIENCE!!
Thanks for the short! I would suggest adding a little grease to those threads 👍🏻
Bet that hub is no longer circular. Gotta pull that out straight, not on an angle like that.
Absolutely. Need two.
Especially aluminum
Especially aluminum
😅😅😅😂😂
@@Lindenbum no aluminum present here.
solid vid. i was waiting for you to spin it to do other side but nope. full send! lol
You can get an 18mm on the head and stack extensions, fire the engine up and use hydraulics of the steering to walk the hubs out that’s how we did it at the dealer
If it's stuck hard enough that just bends the tie rods 😂 one of my co-workers did that once
@@Krankie_Vyou gotta practice a little discretion and maybe use some impacts from a hammer or preferably an air hammer or even a little heat from the old blue wrench in conjunction with the pressure rendered on it through the steering you gotta really be racking the shit out of it to bend a tie rod like that 😅
@@MrCheaterpipe it wasn't me who did it lol it was somebody I work with.
That's how I do it and done corretly it works far better than this "tool" which runs it out crooked as hell. Takes a short minute and you do it on both sides back and forth. Easy Peasey
@@fiskfarm the tool in the video works great if used per the instructions. You're supposed to reposition it a couple times to pull the hub out more evenly. It's not meant to be left in one spot like that.
Lisle has a lot of smart people who help us fix our junk.
Been doing this for a while, don’t even need that tool. Just knock out a wheel stud and use a long bolt and a nut.
And the benefit there is that you'll only bugger a cheap nut or bolt and not and expensive tool like this, can bet you can't just buy the forcing screw or nut part.
@@dcf476 it’s worked every time just fine for me, but go off.
@@Borp56 not sure you got what I meant, what I mean is, a cheap trick is often the best trick, worst case scenario with the method you use, eventually the nut or bolt will wear out and cost pretty much nothing to replace but with this tool he's showing, once it wears out the 'force screw or special nut' thing, you'd probably have to but the whole unit again. Plus your method could be used an all stud holes making it a smoother removal compared to the side twist this tool showed
@@dcf476 ah, yeah I wasn’t understanding what you meant.
That also does the trick 👍
Good vid, but I would tap the other side from the backside so it would come out a bit straighter. Also, removing the sensor first would be wise. And now I know how to make a puller but would make it with drive bolts on both sides.
Thanks!! 👍
Insert the hardened acme threaded forcing screw to push against a solid surface to loosen the hub assembly. To completely remove hub the forcing screw must push from at least two different solid points.
THIS is correct. It's also what Lisle says on their website for the 40100 Hub Remover, but the guy who posted this video didn't read the instructions, let alone have any common sense.
Paid for itself in this demonstration. Awesome tool.
I am amazed at how fast you hand turn those lug nuts.
I think this tool works perfectly fine. You just gotta brake it loose a little bit and keep turning the tool to the other sides to loose it evenly….
But where will it push against on the other side?
My truck is special in the fact that the hub comes out really easily due to the design, even after nearly 24yrs the hub came out easily. The way the hub assembly interracts with the automatic locking hub is a work of art.
I like where the design is going, but they forgot the other half of the tool in design. The plate needs to be bigger and bolt on 4 studs. 2 on either side for even tension.
I think the inventor kept the design to a minimum for production value but also intended it to be loosened spun 180ﾟ and tightened again as it walks out
That's because all specialty tools end up like this
I’ve found sometimes you can put the rotor or drum on back wards and tighten a couple lug nuts a little bit. Then keep ramming it towards you until it pops loose. I’ve only ever done it with drums in the rear on classics but I would assume it would work for other stuff too
People will never learn I guess. I'm there with you
Older Land Rover Discovery and Range Rover hubs are PITA to remove. Thanks for the video!
Taking it out and destroy the hub and the the sensor at the same time. Brilliant
Thanks so much! I ordered one and I got the bearing off in just a few minutes! I wish I knew about this years ago!!! You’re a savior!
All you need is and old 1/2 inch extension 12 inches long and the correct socket for the mounting bolts. Loosen and remove all but the 2 correct bolts and use the power steering to push the bearing out
I used to do em that way when I worked at the dealership! Back then, that was the quickest, easiest way to get em out!
That's what I did
I pull em apart with my bare hands, freak that tool, raaaaaaawwww!!!💪🏻
I would make one on my own with 2 opposite side push bolts so it'll come out evenly.
I like the method of playing whack a mole with my fingers and a chisel😂
I prefer my hub tamer always nice to hammer out frustration 😅
You aren’t wrong! I have one of those also.
That's why i love my '10 Ram 1500. 3 bolts and it pops right off. 30 minute job and no skinnned knuckles.
My 07 ram 3500 6-8 hours each side crazy heard to come off
Not in the salt belt it wont
So satisfying.. I finally got my hub off aka replaced the whole axle .. 3 months and 5 or six loaner tools later.
Wow! That bad eh?
Great tool.. I'm a big fan of having the right tool for the job..
Nice tool! I don’t replace many but when I did it took 30 minutes of pounding before it budged.
That’s a good idea, but you need to have even pressure to pull a bearing to pull it successfully
The fact that it's Lisle is not a surprise. They produce EXCELLENT equipment and specialty tools. If I'm ever looking for something of this nature and see that it's Lisle, I don't even blink. Just grab it, knowing it's good.
You need to stop half way, rotate the forcing screw, or tap it with a hammer whatever, to keep it from coming out all cockeyed. Your needlessly damaging the knuckle/upright because your excited to see it moving.
EVERYTHING that says Lisle on it, yes it's good, and works better than most competitors
ABS sensor has left the chat
😅
I can guarantee that this is not just a 3/4 ton hub issue!! I finally made a jackscrew to go between the hub flange and knuckle! Took about 4 hours to figure out the first side then a hour to do the other!
Ходят слухи если отключить датчик АБС, то снимается легче и без перекоса)
They need to maker one of those tools for the turbo! lol
Well by pulling it out like you did, you ovaled the inside of that hub bore. So now it’s slightly egg shaped and has a tiny 3-6 thou burr on the hub flange so the alignment will have to compensate that tolerance. I have no doubt the tool would work I would just do at least three spots to force the assembly out evenly. However a good smack with a hammer on all sides and they often pop out or they have a bolt perpendicular to the bore around a c style clamp that you can loosen
I know based off my video of popping a stud out and running a bolt through (same concept as this tool.) People in the comments will tell you that "you're gonna crack the hub! " Or " This won't ever work in the rust belt" 😂
That's a nice tool, I'm going to have to add it to my stash!
Well the new one will be easier to install with the oblong hole versus a round hole.
Wheel speed sensor left the chat
Doesn't matter. New unit bearing includes ABS sensor.
the new sensor comes with the hub...
Awesome tool, Lisle comes thru again! Also, you might want to put some grease on the threads of the forcing screw. Will help with extraction and life of tool..
Yes, came here to say, as the old Scottish groundskeeper said, "GRRREASE ME UP, WOMAN!"
I know! I realized after that I never greased em. I knew I'd get tore up in the comments though lol
Lisle makes some great specialty stuff. Never seen this one. I needed this for a jeep the other day, would’ve saved me a a bunch of time.
You did a great job ovaling out the knuckle! As you yanked it out sideways 😂 ram that impact 👏
Good tool! This is definitely a time where having some old, marred lug nuts come in handy so there’s no risk of damaging your shiny ones!
Absolutely! I have a drawer full of old lug nuts just for that reason!
Back the four bolts out half way then throw a socket on the top front bolt. Fire the truck up and turn the wheel all the way to the left. Socket pushes against the bolt and the bolt pushes against the hub. Repeat on the bottom front and the rear bolts. Slower but you don’t have to buy a dang tool you’ll only use once.
I used to do em that way back when that WAS the shortcut to removing them. This tool is wayyy faster than that. Easier as well.
@TomsFoolery but Mr. Wentworths method allows you to reuse the hub bearing
@Caleb Standley no one would ever remove this bearing unless it is to be replaced.
@@Tomsfoolery. SnapOn makes a tool that works like the socket shortcut and I use that.
I came to say the same thing. Learned it from a Ram service tech.
Been a problem for several years & now these big name companies finally come out with a tool & we are supposed to be impressed?
Wow, ingenuity at its best!!
Yeah fuck that. Now the hole for the hub is all jacked up cause it came out sideways
Yeah, that's an awesome tool, but I definitely would have helped the other side along with a hammer ever so often. Forcing it out on that harsh angle could potentially damage the knuckle. I'm betting there was e good gouge on the inside of the hole on the knuckle. The flange base of the hub bearings are hardened some so that probably didn't give much during that whole deal.
Everyones an expert in the comment section...
@Yellow Bird I never claimed to be an expert nor boasted in any capacity of the fact.. but I do indeed know what I'm talking about and am not just spouting off like most of the people watching. I'm speaking from many, many years of experience where in fact, I have damaged myself and have seen others damage more than a few parts, including steering knuckles by either driving bearings or other parts in or out of a bore unevenly. The knuckle in this particular video is steel so it most like wouldn't have been a problem, but there are aluminum knuckles out there, and they CAN be damaged by forcing a hub out of the bore like that. Not every person who posts a comment is right and clearly, just because you have a camera, have a tool and can make a video, you still may put wrong or lack of information out. It's people like you that shut down people trying to help others. I want being hurtful or degrading, I was simply trying to add in a small piece of extra helpful info to an otherwise REALLY GOOD video..
In a perfect world when the shaft isn't froze in the bearing.. 😂
Cool tool, I’ve always just removed a couple of opposing studs and used a long bolt and nut to withdraw the hub assembly, works very similarly
Come on man! Pull it out straight! 1st day as a mechanic?
Yes, first day. Sorry.
Looks like a good tool to practice your torch technique with and make a few. Simple yet effective.
I have done with 2 long bolts and 2 nuts, washers. All I need to do was to whack 2 wheel studs(opposite) out and fed my 🔩 through that hole with the nuts and washers behind the hub flange. I then held the nut with a 🔧, as I tightened the bolts, the nuts would push hub out. Put 2 bolts on opposite side or 1 and rotate + hammering.
That's better than a slide hammer....wow nice
I need to see this man work a spring compressor 😅
My OCD going crazy at that speed sensor wire getting stretched 😂
U can also use the power steering the bolt with a socket no special tool needed. Plenty of videos on it!!
That works! We used to do em that way back at the dealership. Usually took a second person though.
Left the sensor in and pulled it out on an angle. Nice job 👍
That wheel speed sensor like “do I even exist to you?”
I'm gonna try that tool! Thanks much better then a lot of cursing, hammering, and then torching, and when I start torching I usually end up spending more money haha, good tip, tool looks awesome
Did my Dodge Cummins axle and bought a 15 ton hydraulic puller to pull the hub, plus torch heat, and beating on it with sledgehammer. It didn't budge. Ended up cutting off the ball joints and taking the knuckle assembly to a fab shop to have the hub pressed out. They had to resort to an 150 ton hydraulic press and heat to get it off. When it popped off they said it sounded like a shot.
I was fighting some on a Ford explore the other day. I just smacked the stud out and put a bolt through the hole in a nut on the backside of the hub. Worked like a charm. And was free
Gotta keep that huge bolt greased. Good job. I’m buying one!
Should put oil on your puller screw, then change the stressed wheel studs .
Awesome tool and video, wish I had that last weekend.
Half these comments are just wow!
I usually turn the rotor backwards and use two bolts and sleeves for the same purpose. Glad to see they finally made it.
I scrounged some 1/2 plate and torched out lug stud openings in it and drilled a hole in the center and cut threads in it and screwed in my 20 pound slide hammer and it popped off in 2 wacks.
Always been easy for me thank God 🙏🏼
That abs wire is like heyyyyyyyy wtf 😂😂😂
Probably better to reorient it once at least and get it out a bit more even. A better idea is remove the wheel sensor. Hahahahahahahaha
Why? The new hub will come with a new sensor.
So it's basically like a reverse C-clamp. I like it and looks way more efficient than the sliding hammer
Yes, you'd have a battle on your hands trying to remove this specific hub with a sliding hammer.
Wow nice. That's why I just get thr whole new Hub and bearings all ready to go in from Rock auto. So much easier
Appears to be better than the old slide hammer
Finally... a cake walk. Now for the press in one's
Awesome tool. I could have saved 300.00 in labor costs if I would have known about that. Thanks for posting!
I have this tool and recommend never seize on threads or tool threads will wear out after 3 uses or less. I am using my 2nd set now , wish I knew beforehand!
I forgot when making the video. I put wheel bearing grease on them before using it a second time. I find grease a bit more forgiving when you get it in your hands. That anti seize seems to get everywhere once you touch it! 😂
Would u look at that!!! When I saw this I said to my self, I said would u look at that😂
Lisle did it again!
This tool works great used it several times 😊😊😊
That's good to hear! I've only used it twice so far. The hub buster is my go to bearing removal tool normally.
I'm now seeing this after trying to replace upper ball joints on a 3/4 ton ram. I seen another TH-camr show a trick or putting on bolt partially in that holds the bearing on and use a socket and extensions to do what that tool does there and then start the truck and turn the wheel.
That didn't even come close to working for the truck I was working on. We(I got some help from a friend and a couple others) ended up using a 10lb sledgehammer and beating it out enough to use multiple chisels in different spots to get it out.
The sledge was slung with great force too and it only created a roughly 1/16th in gap, maybe 1/8th in gap. That job sucked.
If you reinstall the bolts halfway and hit the head of them with an air hammer they usually come out pretty easily I remember the first time I did that in an auto repair shop and a mechanic started laughing at me and then he saw the bearing come out much easier than he had ever seen it then he quit laughing and then complimented me on the method 😊
I see the comments.. lol people don't know shtttt.. this is the best tool I've used.. it's made me a lot of money..
I own this tool and do these style hubs all the time I find it's more work to get the tool out and set it up then just a few smacks on the back side of the flange and they come out fairly easy at least where we live, may be different on rigs that live in a heavily rust prone area
Lyle always has good tools
Thanks for the pointy thingy would have missed it all without the pointy helper outer!
If you take a short socket, and put it in between the wheel joint and axle housing, when you start the engine and turn the wheel you accomplish this same thing but the tool is cool too, just a tip for those who dont have that tool
Audi bearings have entered the chat.
Some of my favorite tools are made by lisle.
I lather the anti seize on to all metal mating surfaces. Never have a problem removing bearing hubs.
Excellent to damage the hole for the bearing, will end elliptic instead or circular, then you will need to replace all the knuckle.
Did it many times with a socket between the axle yoke and a backed off bolt headUsing the power steering. Mechanic showed me a trick. He has a special tool but if you take what I think is an 11/16 Deep impact socket on the boat head and I think an inch and an eighth to cover it, makes a good pusher. Put it in place manually and reach in and turn the wheel. Done
This is where my air hammer comes into play
Awesome tool! Looks like the same forcing screw in the dual wheel separator and ball joint press. Oil that screw, and the ball bearing under the seat and it works even better.
Great tool. Can make one in the shop. Just need to drive the opposite side with a sledge.
took me 4 hours to remove a bearing once, heat and air hammer. This tool would've been helpful
I'm looking forward to seeing how well it works on the ford explorer rear bearings. Those are very difficult to remove most of the time.