Bolens/MTD Mower popping out of gear - Varidrive transmission Repair.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2024
- parts listed below
Full removal, diagnosis and repair of a 2005 Bolens Riding mower transmission That clunks/pops and lacks forward gear. Transmission part number is MTD 618-04034. This transmission and it's variations are used in Mowers built by MTD and utilizing the Vari-drive system.
Parts used:
Bevel Gear - MTD 917-04056 amzn.to/2YdMICt
Collar clutch - MTD 918-04045 amzn.to/2Vrl1sY
Thrust washer - MTD 936-0495 amzn.to/2PTsL0S
Super S cottonpicker NGLI 00 grease
or
Stens 770-123 NGLI 00 Grease amzn.to/33wrC4y
I wanted to say thanks for posting this very informative video, as well as the links for the parts which definitely saves those who are dealing with the same issues a lot of time not having to search for the parts numbers.
If I'm not mistaken, I believe both the forward and reverse drive gears or bevel gears which ever is desired to call them , I believe they are both the same part number , same part but they are installed in opposite direction each other. Saying that just in case anyone out there needed both gears, they only saw you replace the forward gear and listed the link for the forward gear . If I'm right and I believe I am then maybe this will help anyone watching this that might need that information. Hopefully that helps out.
Anyway, thanks for posting this video. I can tell you this m much, I have watched a lot of videos made on this very subject and issue, and your video by far is one of the best videos I've seen on this particular problem.
Thanks again for posting such a helpful video! 👍
Glad to see a person that cleans things befor they tear them down
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Thanks so much you saved my ass !
It's 2022, I randonmly clicked on this repair video as guidance and immediately found the answer to one of my problems!
Big ups, great work. Can't thank you enough!
You've given me the confidence to tackle my transmission issue. I'm pretty sure it's the forward/reverse selector, ( it went " K' Ching" and I lost all momentum. At least you've given me a start. Thanks for your good work, I'm actually excited by the prospect of major surgery on this machine. Cheers!
Edit/Correction: The brass bearings on the FNR/Drive shaft gears has to be sitting in a way to receive the upper casing.
Adjusted this slightly and now it's clamped together very tightly and can easily spin the drive shaft with my fingers. Win, Thanks brother.
Just got mine put back together, using the SS00 grease.
Gears spin nicely when it's loose but with upper and lower casing tight it's quite difficult.
Think I need to remove one of the washers from the main drive/pulley shaft.
I added an extra one because it was a bit slack but maybe that slack is required.
Thank you my MTD is about to get a new lease on life now!
Also a problem with mtd mowers (that I had with mine at least) the mower was approx 10 yrs old at the time... my friend gave it to me because he (and a so called professional mower repairman) had been unable to find the problem.
It was being extremely difficult to select a gear and sometimes impossible to select forward or reverse occasionally you could get it into get by rocking the mower fore and aft but it would slip out often.
After recieving the mower I discovered the problem within a few minutes... the lip of the chintzy sheet metal that might be called the "frame" was rusted and
broken free on the one side where the axle/diff/trans meets the frame... so it was just flapping in the breeze shifting about when torque was applied to the axle. We welded a tiny flat piece of metal with some holes drilled in it to reinforce the existing mounting spot and it was good as new.
I think I'll have to do the same, might weld mine but worried I'll blow a hole through it.
THANKS for the video! Forward was slipping to the point of useless, but reverse was fine. It was going to take two weeks to get the parts. So, I swapped the gears (and shims) and rotated the slip (clutch) collar 180 degrees so the square edges were on the (now) forward gear. This allowed me to mow one more time while waiting on the parts (the temp fix also started slipping*). I ordered one gear ($23.00), the clutch collar ($12.00) and could only get the bronze bushing on the forward side (the shorter one of the two -$9.00). The bushings are special and you can't just go to Lowe's and get a bronze bushing. It has a flat spot and an ear that fit into the housing sections. The fork was bent a bit so I tweaked it back to square. Tractor Supply had the 00 Grease-Cotton Picker Grease. It was under $6.00 (MTD grease was more than the parts). I found the 00 grease under the Torque Arm/Turnbuckles and next to the mouse traps, no where near the oil/grease aisle. It is kinda thick at first and the collar was sticking to the gears, but it thinned out eventually. It is a 32 oz bottle. I greased everything then tried to fill the bottom of the housing with enough to equal 19 oz. that MTD says the rebuild requires. * I suspect my problem started as a combination of the bent fork and a worn out bushing (and because I am a fat guy). The new parts had about 0.060 of combined endplay. I tried to add shims to get it within spec (0.015 to 0.020), but it felt to tight when I tried to turn the pulley on the input shaft. So I ended up only adding a 0.020 shim washer to the space between the forward bushing and the spline on the drive shaft. Bolted everything back together and it worked! And no leaks yet! Thanks again! Could not have done it without you.
I am hoping this is my problem also, except mine wont move in reverse or forward. Hate to get rid of a great rider mower. Good ones are hard to find, so either way I intend to "keep it until the wheels fall off" as my Dad used to say.
@@dominicdouglas7580 I understand. It is not a hard job to remove the transaxle (other than the springs). Then just follow the video. Remove the top half and inspect the parts carefully. A parts list is available online from MTD if you have the serial number. I got the parts from Amazon using the MTD part numbers (#00 grease at Tractor Supply). Check the input shaft key/spline at the pulley if it will not move either direction. Could be stripped and a cheapfix. Good Luck!
Excellent Video and Repair work. I used various thicknesses of Stainless Steel flat washers to take up some slack in the 'thrust' bearing location. It has worked great for me. One other source of a mower not going into gear correctly is located within the 'differential' housing itself. There is a nut inside that can work loose and its job is to hold the axle tight and keeping the shaft splines mated. When that sucker loosens it is very difficult to gain access. In my case I threw caution to the wind and used a dremmel cutting wheel to make a 'window' in the housing to gain access. Then take a grinding tool to the proper size open-end wrench to make the wrench thinner so it can fit into the window and on the bolt. Tighten it up and good to go. Some people take the differential to a welder and let them tack-weld the nut solid once it is tight. If anyone has problems with this type of transmission; Don't give up ! They can be worked on to last 1 or more seasons before spending some big bucks. [ it has been a while but if I remember right I also used a wrench from a SkilSaw to tighten the differential nut. I may have had to widen the gap in the jaws with a file a bit to make it fit the nut. Using this tool is better because it is already 'Thin' enough to fit on the nut without hitting anything ]
Exactly my problem on my troy bilt. Thanks for the detailed video.
Glad I watched this video. I had taken mine apart and couldn't see exactly where all the wear was exactly located other than the clutch collar. After watching this video and taking a second look at the forward bevel gear, I then noticed the wear. Yes, you are absolutely right, the broken grease would cause the clutch collar to ramp over the bevel gear and cause wear, and is exactly where I found the problem, Thanks!
Can.not.seewher.the.small.sping.goes.andsmallbearing
Frickin' awesome! Great job! I have the same issue...now I feel comfortable with getting mine working again. I'm tired of holding the gear shifter in place and trying to turn.
Thank you. I now feel confident I can yank my transmission and find out why the axle is riding on the housing and chewing the housing up. From the looks of the inside, the axle goes through a bushing and I believe I have a bushing stuck to the axle and it's turning as well or the bushing is just chewed up. I'll find out when I pull it apart.
Excellent...looks like the same problem we are having. Gonna try to fix ourselves. Thanks!
You just saved me from buying another lawn tractor. Thank you much. 👍🏽
Great video! Appreciate the part numbers in description as well. Just pulled my first one apart yesterday and noticed the damage to the bevel gear.
I had a transmission with the same exact problem luckily I had some spare parts and was able to use the gear from another transmission
I bought my old rider from a friend, it stopped going into reverse and forward. It would just sit there, or go a few yards then stop moving. I cant just buy a new mower, so hoping this is my issue as well. Great video.
I flip the gears most of the time and it works great, most people don’t use reverse very much and it saves them 90.00 bucks on old mower
dude you just saved me time and trouble thanks for the video and all the part numbers i will be taking mine apart soon to see whats going on with it
I had a similar problem on my Troy-Bilt which has same setup in my transaxle, bevel gears, clutch gear etc.
I thought about it just a bit and realized you should be able to swap the bevel gear/clutch gear assembly end to end on the driveshaft and get "fresh edges" where they count. Since the input shaft/gear drives one bevel gear in one direction and the other in the opposite, the wear will always occur on the "catch" edges of both the bevel gears and the clutch gear "interlocks" but the trailing edges of all interlocks are virtually unfazed. By reversing the assembly on the drive shaft the force and pressure will now be placed on the unworn edges of the clutch gear interlocks and those of the bevel gears.
This presupposes that the assembly has not been reversed at a previous time.
Did you try switching the gears? Did it work?
A very old parts owner passed, new owners put 00 grease on misc junk for 1.00 a quart, I bought it all for 46 bucks, sold / used 6 and broke even 😊😊😊
Thanx for the tips i suspect my MTD has the same problem
Ty this is what my mower is doing? Haven't taking it apart yet but pretty sure that what's wrong w mine . It doing the same thing ya was doing. And ty for listing the parts very helpful.
Wow very high quality and simple explanations of parts. A+
You are my hero! That safed a lot of money! Thank you
Thanks for the tip where to buy the grease, those bolts are 3 start threads self cutting. listen for a click when putting bolts in as you could strip the thread assembling in the cases. There is another video explaining that. Check out the RADIOMACHANICS VIDEO. You didnt show the adjustment for the shifter rod going into the gear box.
Check brg in top for rust and damage, a oring will help keep water out also
Great video, use Lucas red and tacky wheel bearing grease and run a bead of black RTV SILICONE all around the edges of the lower housing and all around the axle bushings on the end of each axle !
Thanks for the helpful detailed video, Glad to see clean things befor tear them down !
Nice video, have same problem on 2012 mtd that l bought earlier this year.
Thanks for the video !
thanks for all of your good education and detail!!!
Great video! Im shocked that you dont have more subscribers... I just got this same mower today, deck and all looks good, but the guy said it wont pull... Said he smells something that smells like a clutch burning... I didnt think this style has a clutch... Im leaning toward either a stretched belt or a worn out spring... I reckon ill see soon... When its not so cold out and im not sick
These use a varidrive setup. I have another video on that. The belts wear out on these and then they have drive/speed issues. Most mowers loosen and tighten the belt to act as a clutch.
I have been running standard bearing grease in my diff, but I do not have forward and reverse gears in it. The higher sw grease probably wouldn't let the selector work freely. But I don't think any harm would come to the diff. I put the grease in mine about 7 years ago.
You wouldn't notice a difference right away, it would show up in the form of accelerated wear, which would take very long given the way most mowers are used. And that's if it caused a problem at all. Mowers aren't very picky.
These beat tuff torque axle in every way and are the Best Buy period
People with those fluid drive trans axles are spreading big bucks
MTD unit is the simplest and easier to maintain
Check resting spring on shift level
Usually there broken and gone
Big thing is probably adjustment so there fully in gear
I've seen several videos saying it should have multiple thrust washers on the axles... I haven't opened one of these yet that had multiple washers. The parts diagrams show two different thickness. I think at the factory it is a select fit of one of the two washers., not two washers on each end.
Whatever gets the clearance within spec is most likely.
Great ! Very good education and detail ! ( Belgium )
Thanks, excellent video & explanation, take care.
What if the “ramp edge” is square off with a grinder so not slip? Or add some metal with a welder 🧑🏼🏭🤔
as long as its square it should work. grinding it would leave slop though and the gear may be hardened and not to fond of being welded.
Very helpful, thanks.
Question is there a way to add grease without taking out rear from Tractor, or way to check the grease
for the rear end, and what grease should be used, doing a spring check on similar tractor,,,thanks...
On this one you have to open it. some have a rubber plug
No, there isn't a way to add grease unfortunately.
The grease required is a bentonite grease, hard to find and expensive. If you want to switch grease to Super S 00 Cotton Picker grease, you'd have to clean the entire assembly out and add in the new.
If you want to add it easily in the future, you can tap a hole in a decent spot of the upper casing, but you shouldn't be losing any grease.
I think you just helped me fix my mower
You should have checked the bolts to make sure you didn’t cut new threads in the aluminum housing as the bolts are self tapping and will cut new ones
That part was likely cut out for time. If any bolts weren't in properly the impact driver would have been hammering the hell out of them.
UGH I DREAD SEEING WHAT MINE LOOKS LIKE! YIKES!!
ok mine is a bit different it has 1 gear and the reverse is thru a chain. it has pins for the dogs and they are all good it still pops out of gear no matter where i adjust the shifter. so i'm going to modify the linkage and move the hole out from the pivot. plus i checked the bushings they were good i greased the vari drive slack sheaves and i still have the whine so it must be just part on the system. if the mod to the pivot linkage works i will come back and say it did.
Then you have 5 speed
You can get the 00 Grease on Ebay for between 17 and 20 bucks
I bought some at Tractor Supply for less than $6.00. Only one of the TS's in my area had it. Also, It is not with the oil/grease, it was on the bottom shelf next to the mouse traps...?
If this post wasn’t 6 years old, I would ask “did you change the seal that was leaking grease on your brake rotor and pads or did I miss that in the video”?
I can barely remember what I did yesterday much less 6 years ago
Really well done.
How did the "00" grease work out for you? I would think "00", as thin as it is, would leak past the axle bushings. Did the bushings seal sufficently well to hold in the "00"?
Wondering this too. Hard to find much information about grease alternatives, I'm not spending that much on bentonite grease.
I went with the 00 and installing it today/tomorrow (today hopefully).
It will not reach the axle bushings, when you take it apart you'll have oxidation on the axle because there's no grease on it.
The grease is primarily for the gears. Even then, there are oil sleeves on the axle ends, 721-0338, but I fail to see their purpose, most likely to prevent dirt from getting inside more so than keeping grease inside.
As far as the bronze bushings on the FNR/Drift shaft, the upper/lower casing clamps on the bronze. Any loss is negligible, same with the shift fork port. Goop is goop, the clay just helps to embed into the gears which probably reduces metal on metal contact by a degree. Considering my transmission is 30 years old and the gears look fine, and just now removing the old shitty grease that probably split 15 years ago, I'm sure I'm fine with the 00.
Did you put the popit ball and spring back ???😢😢😢
yes
exactly what mine is doing, i got the new clutch and fwd gear, need to check my fork. but please let me know how much play is ok in the axle, on the short side? its not broken but seems to have the same play as all these other videos.
Lawn mowers aren't really precision equipment. As long as it isn't too much and isn't dumping grease out it should be fine. You can always replace the bushings if you want to eliminate some of the play.
Can you add a zerk fitting to add grease to this transmission unit
yes. but regular grease isn't the correct type.
Slipping is best way to describe my issue. Under load is worse forwards and reverse. Bushings were shot, in fact wore the axel housing shaft oblong instead of round. I’ll tear it apart again because bushings and cleanup with new grease didn’t fix my problem. At all. Question- the diff seems loose when out but when installed it seems snug. Is my problem most likely the diff or the fwd/reverse thrust plate gears? How loose should/can the diff be? Thanks in advance!
Slipping will be an issue with the belt system not the transaxle.
What the cost of a transmission for a bowins
Does the large gear come off? It looks like it’s welded on mine. Since I can’t get it off, how did you clean the gears in the differential?
I know it's you put this video out already a long time ago but if there's some way I can get a hold of you private because I have some questions on the exact same transmission
I think I'd just have got a generic can of STP oil treatment and called it good !
Somebody way over grease that probably to try to quiet it down
Mine doesn't do good with grease it did lots better with the 20w50 synthetic hydrostatic zero turn transmission fluid oil from tractor supplie it gave mine more reverse speed
could you have switched the forward and reverse gears?
No, it would have the same issue just in reverse.
@@pfun41 I don't think so because they would be using the opposite side of the gear "dogs".. I have the same issue and I don't have any new parts available, gonna use some Prussian blue to see wheree the pressure /contact is when I try that before I install
Hey man my transmission is for a mtd Troy bilt and mine that middle part doesn’t won’t to slide on to the gear on the left the one you replaced on the transmission your working on and when I press hard on the gear changer it doesn’t hardly won’t hardly go or not go on that gear I don’t know why it won’t I don’t know if the grease on it is to thick just wondering if you might know what it is plus when it was running it would not shift good in forward gear and would grind but it would drive good in reverse
I didn't see when you put the ballbearing back in that keeps the shift rod in position, mine has a shorter bolt that puts pressure on the ballbearing to hold position, at least that's what im assuming it does, can anyone let me know if im right or wrong on this? Thanks.
You put it in last after everything else is back together. There should be aball bearing, spring, then bolt.
@pfun41. Hey there pfun41, great video for starters. Well, first I wanted to say thanks for really describing the issues with your transaxle. Not all video's go into it as well as you've did here. I hope that you don't mind if I download this one, mainly because you go in depth with the issue & explaining it so well, as to how it happened. One potential issue I wanted to ask is, when you added the new lubricant, why didn't you put some of it inside the ends of the casing since there is no way the lube can get from the gears section of the case, over to the 2 bearings on either side, or maybe I should say the inner & outer Bearings that the axle shaft rides on. To me it seems like a design flaw, unless they didn't want those bearings to last much past the warranty period. It just seems like they'd wear a lot quicker the way the casing is made. Why there's no channel routed so the lube can work it's way to the outer sections or some sort of directions that address what is probably an issue further down the repair road...
I remember when I'd have to run cable cranes, there was always these small cups with lids. Some would have a sticker or on the really old cranes, instructions were stamped into the lid. Like every 250 hour, or 500 hours, 2,000 meant yearly but you get the picture. I would think that at some point, lubricant would need to get to both bearings on either end of the shaft.
I had ''17:42'' jotted down. That's just before you put the top section back on.... Thanks again for the video, MD...............
Those bearings are actually bushings. If you look close you'll notice grease oozing out between them and the axles before I started filling the case with grease. I added grease before I slid the axles through them. As for the rest, this thin grease will work it's way into just about everything over time, it will make it's way through the channel and into those bushings. Most mower transaxles like this aren't mean tto be greased regularly. They are fairly low speed and typically will not fail from lubrication problems before the rest of the mower, so the manufacturers don't worry about it.
@@pfun41 Oh, I did say bearings didn't I, my mistake. Okay, well you answered it. The grease does find it's way to the outer bushing. I'm actually working on a vintage Fender Stratocaster body today so once I get done what I started, I was planning on doing some measuring & checking the PDF's on this mower which I was lucky enough to find. That way I can make sure Michael [my son] is ordering all the correct parts. So far I noticed a tad more wiggle on the right side, so the bushing kit should go on the list. Since he bought it ''not working,'' he should get the seals for the axle only because if it start leaking once the lubricant is added & the bushings are all new, having a leak would make the both of look sorta dumb. I mean paying $100 for the mower that other than the forward issue, starts, runs & seems to just as strong as a new mower, he'll be okay investment wise to add the bushings & seals anyways because he'd be buying what you bought for your mower, so what's another $25-$35. I would have bought it if he didn't. Besides, for what it'll cost him to do this project, a 22'' Toro new would still be $430. He'll probably be at half the price of that Toro once he buttons up this mower. As for the Belts, if it's like the Craftsman 38'' I have parked, he'll be able to get another season out of this set. Hey, thanks for getting back with me. I should make a video of how it goes so others an see that even a guy who's never messed with one of these MTD's, plus has no experience doing anything like this period, will be able to read just how easy it was to get this one right.... I'm sure there's hundreds of thousands od people out there with the exact same issue. Take care & again, thanks for the great video... It really helped.
@pfun41, just put both parts like you did but ya know at your video at 19 minutes, you can pretty much spin the pulley easy. On this one, not easy at all. I asked my son if he did spin the pulley before tearing it down & he said no, not really. So as I talk him into removing the top section of the gear case, is there something that he may have missed? So far I can't think of anything. Unless that horizontal shaft was damaged or has some burrs or something along those lines...
@@montydaniels1054 If the grease dried out it the shaft may have rusted inside. You would be surprised how stiff something can be and still move when on the machine. I don't recall if it's a bushing or bearing on these but whatever it is it should be greased.
@@pfun41 Okay, my son told me yesterday that he only put a dab of 00 grease in the gear case. I said it's possible since we used mineral spirits to clean the parts off that the needle bearings are dry & since the bevel gear & shift collar are both new, according to the parts catalog we used to get all the part numbers & then parts from Tractor Supply, you may need to remove one of the thrush washers &/or one of the regular washers since it had a note that read, use as needed & since those two parts are new, it is possible that it's too tight for the forward gear to rotate properly. I'm going with that & since there's a lack of 00 grease, the needle bearings are more than likely binding since he didn't force the grease into that bearing. I'll update it this afternoon so you know what we ran into & others reading will get some more important information to put in their personal bag of tricks. In the meantime, thanks for uploading such a great video & also passing on some of your knowledge. Oh yeah one more thing, now I know what's wrong with my Craftsman rider. Perhaps if my son doesn't leave this mower here for us older folk to use, I can get mine going since I was injured back in 2007, I can no longer do walk behind mowing & the wife is 4 years older than I am & she's finished taking care of mowing.. She's a good strong Polish gal but even those strong Polish gals have to slow down, lol & thanks again pfun41... M.D. ..............
Are transmission hard to replace
What causes the grease to come out
Good job
I just recently replaced my drive belts but now my lawnmower has basicly only one speed, and its very slow. Anyone have an idea of what might be wrong?
On these mowers proper size and drive belt tension are critical. You may have a belt thats too big or a part hanging up.
I have the same mower but it will not move foward or reverse. I need help. You got an email?
I have the same tractor but it is jumping when you start down a little hill. Could this part be my problem too?
Yes. Mine did the same thing going down hill.
I want to replace the grease on the axle I have the same axle is it grease any good quality ?
Unrelated but I replaced the drive belt and now the variable speed no longer works, it's stuck on 1 or 2 (slow). It's correct belt but very tight. Could barely get tension spring back on. Know what is causing this? I can't find any info on that speed lever or how it works.
I have a video on how the system works. You need to replace both belts at the same time and I recommend OEM belts as these systems are very finicky.
@@pfun41 why both belts? What does the drive belt have to do with replacing the other belt?
@@alan933 There are two drive belts and they need to be the correct length and width to function properly. Wear has a big effect on the vari drive system.
I changed gears and it still pops out of 3 gear into 6th whats the proplem
If it's popping into another gear that's an issue with the varidrive, not the trasaxle. Varidrive handles speed, Transaxle handles direction.
Where you find parts
Where did you find a parts diagram for that transmission? Is there a site?
Any parts site should have it. I like partstree. You'll need the model number off the mower.
Where did you find the parts?
what make these axles whine when in drive mode? the more i push on the pedal the louder it whines.
Probably the varidrive system. I do find that 99% of them have some whine, I typically don't worry about it. It could be a number of things, old bearings in the pully system/idlers, the straight cut gears in the transaxle, or just the vari drive system itself. Unless it's ungodly loud I wouldn't be concerned.
@@pfun41 thanks i took it all apart and found a bit of sid to side slop so i fabed another spacer and took that out. i then shifted the fnr yoke and it stopped over the detent and fully engaged at both sides i think someone was in it and got the spacers messed up or poor assembly at the factory. mine has spring loaded dowel pins that fit into the side gear and the other gear. i don't have 2 side gears min has the reversing on a jack shaft under the main shaft connected with a chain. the pins are good the holes are good the yoke is straight and square.
i greased the vari drive idler pulleys and the vari drive so that should take care of any noise they generate. the noise must be from the intervals of the actual drive. thanks
What’s the spring in the cup holder for
seat switch
My mower just had the same failure. Where did you source the parts? I cannot find them other then complete axle groups
partstree, ebay, or amazon
@@pfun41 thank you. great video and well explained.
@@pfun41 did yours have the spring and ballbearing that's held n place with the screw that holds the fwd and rev/neautral in position? I forget what it's called,where the actual shift linkage bar hooks up to it,I missed it in the video when u put it together.
@@davidl2281 The detent ball? They all have that, it's required to hold it in gear.
@@pfun41 I have a screw that goes in where the spring n detent ball goes, I thought it was for putting pressure against the spring n ball,, it was loose when I took the transmission off mower,the problem I am having is it wouldn't stay n gear, and sometimes would pop out of gear, I have it completely apart and all the gears look pretty good, so I thought maybe that spring n ball is letting it pop out of gear? So basically I don't know what the problem is, lol, I appreciate your reply back to me, and any help u can give me, thanks
What are the torque specs for the 1/4" case bolts ?
Not sure. Its not super critical on this, so I would usually snug them down with a 1/4 drive ratchet. Or you can find a generic torque spec for that size bolt in aluminum threads and use that.
@@pfun41 I took them to 60 inch pnds which is 5 ft pnds. Probably could go a little more but theyll probably be fine.
where do you get the gears from and do they have lesser teeth
Partstree or Ebay and no, they are identical.
@@pfun41 jacks small engines is awesome, has everything you need for almost any mower. mtd site is a bit pricey but enter your model and they shoud have all oem