I know this video was done 7 years ago, wondering if you are even going notice my comment and question. I don't really have lots of experience, I'm learning, and I have a 1:18 motorcycle model that I need to make it look carbon fiber look like the real thing. I saw your video and reviewing again to learn your skills in this matter. I went through the list of tools and materials, and one of the things that I couldn't find was the carbon fiber material that you're using. I already made a list of whatever I'm going to use, but couldn't find any link for the carbon fiber. Could you kindly send me in right direction for this material, thankfully.
Hi, many thanks for the videos. May I please ask what is your preferred Carbon Fiber decals ? I have tried various (Hobby Design being the least preferred to my view). Specifically to the video, what decals (type and code) you are using?
+Martin Cloutier If you use 1K clear such as tamiya wait 24hours. If your using 2k clear heat the parts up with a hear dryer for a while to dry them out and then let the parts air dry for an hour. then apply the 2k clear.
Can a lacquer clear be applied over the CF decals? I am working on a project that the paint is an acrylic lacquer and I will use the same brand for the clear coat. The brand is called Dupli-Color Perfect Match. Both the paint and the clear are aerosol cans. If I decant the paint to use in my airbrush can I decant then clear also? Thanks in advance!
+Platoon2611 You can decant it though it does not make a lot of sense as the spray cans are more exspensive then a can of paint would be. If your not sure it will work on the decals, do a test piece.
i notice you said that you don't clear coat before you apply decals, is it becuse of the type of paint your using? would the solutions mess up acrylic paint if not coated?
+Henry Prophete i simply dont want to wait a couple of days for the clear to dry. If i apply clear first then decals and then clear again i would be 2 weeks further. With zero paints thr solution does not effect the paint. Only if you apply to much and let it soak. With acrylic the solution can effect the paint. So in that case it is better to clear. Decal, and final clear
Does painting the part help the carbon stick better I'm having problems with them not fully staying I've done everything you do but I did not paint the part it's black so I didn't see the need of painting it I cleaned the part used micro set and sol with heat in the steps you have shown I had the part perfect come back the next day and could not handle the part at all should I paint them and what do you recommend thank you for the great videos
I like the thinners based paint like zero paints. Acrylic will not work best as the water used for placing the decal can ruin the acrylic paint. Maybe clearcoating the parts first will work better
+The Scalemodeling Channel I didn't think about that I was going to do them in gun metal it's a lacquer model master metalizer it's hard for me to get zero paints
As usual great stuff here. I've got a question regearding airbrushes and a perfect clearcoat application. How important is it to use a high quality airbrush to achieve impeccable, non-orange peel clear coat surface? I've been of the opinion that, in case of clear, a cheap, Chinese airbrush with an 0.5 nosle will do just fine but I had no success so far. Do you think that Harder & Steenbeck ultra 2 in1 would do well? Cheers.
+Nic ztego The perfect paintjob is a combination of a couple of things: - the primer has to be spotless and smooth - you'll need a good airbrush and compressor(so yes the H&S will be a good option) - Some practice and basic know how on working with the airbrush and paint - A clean work enviroment with the least amount of dust possible - good ventilation in the room and a respirator for your own health and safety - and a high quality clear like Zero paints or Gravity color Cheap clear and a cheap airbrush are the start of a bad paint job. Its not just the tools you use but they sure do help a lot!
thnx so much. I think I'll risk the purchase of a better quality airbrush. As for the clear - zero 2k is a bit of a problem where I'm at so I guess I'll do some testing with others. Anyways, thnx again.
Nice video ( once again...) How long do you heat the piece, when using microset, and what is the temperature ? Cold, hot or very hot ?... Do you see something on the piece, saying it is time to remove ? Or is it your experience , your failures, both ? Thanks again
+Pierre De Dinard I heat it untill all the solvents are not viable anymore. Not sure what the temperature is. Its from a hair dryer, though still pretty hot. I have not hadd to pull any pieces off lately, thats mainly because of experience
+The Scalemodeling Channel I don't no about them I'm in the US a lot of things I try to order the shipping makes it not worth it any place you no that can get them to me for a good price
Very informational video! Thanks for posting this, should help me when I'm building my models
Perfect timing ... Just ordered my Lexus LFA so this will be very helpful! Thanks
Didn't think that big ol' decal'd lay down, pleasure to see I wuz wrong AND whut a bit o' patience and tenacity pays the bills.
Thank you for this, helped me apply large decals to my drag car. Thanks Tom! Life saver :)
awesome content as always
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
I know this video was done 7 years ago, wondering if you are even going notice my comment and question.
I don't really have lots of experience, I'm learning, and I have a 1:18 motorcycle model that I need to make it look carbon fiber look like the real thing.
I saw your video and reviewing again to learn your skills in this matter.
I went through the list of tools and materials, and one of the things that I couldn't find was the carbon fiber material that you're using.
I already made a list of whatever I'm going to use, but couldn't find any link for the carbon fiber.
Could you kindly send me in right direction for this material,
thankfully.
Www.scalemotorsport.com
Hi, many thanks for the videos. May I please ask what is your preferred Carbon Fiber decals ? I have tried various (Hobby Design being the least preferred to my view). Specifically to the video, what decals (type and code) you are using?
+Harry V Scalemotorsport 1024 twillweave
Great how-to video, thanks!
Which clear are you recommending to use on the decals and how long should we wait prior the application of the clear coat?
+Martin Cloutier If you use 1K clear such as tamiya wait 24hours.
If your using 2k clear heat the parts up with a hear dryer for a while to dry them out and then let the parts air dry for an hour. then apply the 2k clear.
Can a lacquer clear be applied over the CF decals? I am working on a project that the paint is an acrylic lacquer and I will use the same brand for the clear coat. The brand is called Dupli-Color Perfect Match. Both the paint and the clear are aerosol cans. If I decant the paint to use in my airbrush can I decant then clear also? Thanks in advance!
+Platoon2611 You can decant it though it does not make a lot of sense as the spray cans are more exspensive then a can of paint would be. If your not sure it will work on the decals, do a test piece.
i notice you said that you don't clear coat before you apply decals, is it becuse of the type of paint your using? would the solutions mess up acrylic paint if not coated?
+Henry Prophete i simply dont want to wait a couple of days for the clear to dry. If i apply clear first then decals and then clear again i would be 2 weeks further.
With zero paints thr solution does not effect the paint. Only if you apply to much and let it soak.
With acrylic the solution can effect the paint. So in that case it is better to clear. Decal, and final clear
I'm a beginner modeller and I was just wondering what glue should I use for painted parts?
+StormBee CA glue. but be carefull as this will stain and bond everything! So do not use to much.
I use Zap Medium thickness(green lable) CA glue
Does painting the part help the carbon stick better I'm having problems with them not fully staying I've done everything you do but I did not paint the part it's black so I didn't see the need of painting it I cleaned the part used micro set and sol with heat in the steps you have shown I had the part perfect come back the next day and could not handle the part at all should I paint them and what do you recommend thank you for the great videos
Painting the parts helps the decals stick a lot better than just the bare plastic.
+The Scalemodeling Channel is there a type of paint like acrylic that helps more or any type
I like the thinners based paint like zero paints. Acrylic will not work best as the water used for placing the decal can ruin the acrylic paint. Maybe clearcoating the parts first will work better
+The Scalemodeling Channel I didn't think about that I was going to do them in gun metal it's a lacquer model master metalizer it's hard for me to get zero paints
How about gravity colors?
What are you using to hold your parts on the stick while you work on them?
Double sided tape
As usual great stuff here. I've got a question regearding airbrushes and a perfect clearcoat application. How important is it to use a high quality airbrush to achieve impeccable, non-orange peel clear coat surface? I've been of the opinion that, in case of clear, a cheap, Chinese airbrush with an 0.5 nosle will do just fine but I had no success so far. Do you think that Harder & Steenbeck ultra 2 in1 would do well? Cheers.
+Nic ztego The perfect paintjob is a combination of a couple of things:
- the primer has to be spotless and smooth
- you'll need a good airbrush and compressor(so yes the H&S will be a good option)
- Some practice and basic know how on working with the airbrush and paint
- A clean work enviroment with the least amount of dust possible
- good ventilation in the room and a respirator for your own health and safety
- and a high quality clear like Zero paints or Gravity color
Cheap clear and a cheap airbrush are the start of a bad paint job. Its not just the tools you use but they sure do help a lot!
thnx so much. I think I'll risk the purchase of a better quality airbrush. As for the clear - zero 2k is a bit of a problem where I'm at so I guess I'll do some testing with others. Anyways, thnx again.
Nice video ( once again...)
How long do you heat the piece, when using microset, and what is the temperature ? Cold, hot or very hot ?...
Do you see something on the piece, saying it is time to remove ?
Or is it your experience , your failures, both ?
Thanks again
+Pierre De Dinard I heat it untill all the solvents are not viable anymore. Not sure what the temperature is. Its from a hair dryer, though still pretty hot.
I have not hadd to pull any pieces off lately, thats mainly because of experience
Where do you buy the carbon fiber decals?
+Colderapollo 882 scalemotorsport
But what kind of carbon decals do you use ? (Brand)
+KBTDK Scalemotorsport
how is going your porsche 918 ? i been waiting for it
+Ersun Karaaslan These are parts for the 918........... so it is still going...
what kind of tape is that? where did you get it ? looks like a big tamiya tape haha
+MrAndreppc It is from a brand called KIP
www.kip-tape.com/
+The Scalemodeling Channel I don't no about them I'm in the US a lot of things I try to order the shipping makes it not worth it any place you no that can get them to me for a good price
Gravity colors have a US distribution. if you go to the site it will automaticaly go to the US site for you. Use Coupon TH-cam and get %15 off ;)
Thank you so much!!!
Wow
😍👍
The car must be 918
"music" should be excluded from theese otherwise valuable vids.stop ruining Your great contributions mate