@@BlackChaliceStudio I'd like to take this opportunity to ask you about something I didn't quite understand. Do I understand correctly that a layer of acrylic paint is applied first, which is not dissolved by the alcohol, and then a layer of enamel is applied and dissolved with alcohol so that the layer of acrylic paint underneath comes out?
@@weizenfuchsfor both the enamel and acrylic reductive technique the base coats are applied to the miniature first (acrylics) then allowed sufficient time to cure properly (a few hours is usually fine) Then for the enamel reductive technique a wash of enamel is applied then reduced using white / mineral spirits and a suitable tool. For the acrylic reductive technique a filter or wash of acrylic is applied then reduced using isopropyl alcohol and a suitable tool, just be extra careful when using isopropyl alcohol as it’s quite easy to eat through the underlying acrylic base coats if you’re too rough!
@@BlackChaliceStudioAh, I see, so it's more about giving the underlying layer enough time to cure so it's not also affected by the removal. This info helps a lot, thank you very much! I'm already looking forward to trying it out and seeing what I can do with it.
@@weizenfuchsexactly that! Provided the base coats have cured properly and you’re gentle in your reductive passes you’ll be fine! If in doubt I always advise practising on an old miniature first so you get the feel for it.
Great stuff! Two questions about Villainy Inks: 1) What’s the secret to getting them to dry matte? Even my Sector Rust seems to be drying satin/glossy 2) Is there any way to stop pigment building up in the pipette? 😅
Thank you! In answer to your questions, villainy require proper agitation to fully mix the binder and pigment, a couple of agitator balls and a vortex mixer make short work of the mixing process! As for the droppers, a paperclip pushed into the head of the dropper can help break up any sediment, then a thorough mix will blend everything together. Later batches came with an alternate dropper / lid which helps!
Very nice!! Thanks for the vid! Question incomming: How long should or can i let the enamel and/or the acrylics cure before going on with reducing? Is there a anything like a timelimit? How does it change or effect the products?! Thanks in advance for any help ❤
OK so I know we don't need to varnish a mini before applying enamels(though a gloss can help for recess shading) but what effect if any does a mat or ultra mat layer of varnish have on the appearance of the subsequent enamel applications? I'm also curious about what happens if you do your removal pass while the white spirit is only say half dry rather than waiting for it all to dry and then doing your removal pass with a dry brush or with a brush that is only barely damp with spirits?
I’ll only use Varnishes after the unifying washes / reductive technique to alter the finish of a particular surface and add some variation. There’s no reason you can apply varnish to the whole mini though! You can come straight in for the reductive pass without letting the unifying washes dry of course but the effect will be pretty weak in comparison to allowing it some time to take hold on the underlying colours!
@@TheMichaellathrop it will essentially lock in the layers underneath it.. so you can, in theory, clean off all enamels and oils that come after it if you wanted to. In practice... never comes back to 100% But.. if you put down a gloss varnish then you should have a shinier surface after you've applied and cleaned off your enamels, but youre still applying layers over the top of that varnish and so if you dont clean the enamels off 100% then you will get surface/finish variation
@@EnterTheFenix so the micro texture of a mat or ultra mat surface doesn't say leave a microdot texture that doesn't come off or something else odd like that then?
Do you varnish once you are 100% done. I recently tried Villainy Inks out. Almost a week later and i still cant touch the model without the wash coming off
Hello, I enjoyed the video! However, I ordered the tester kit on November 28th and it is still being processed. I would like to know when I can get the ink or if I can get a refund. I have asked the email many times, but there is no reply. I am sorry to tell you this on the channel. My order number is 96193. Thank you.
Just when I decided, that I want to try this technique, this tutorial comes up. Awesome and thank you!
Excellent timing! I hope you find it useful and have fun with the technique!
@@BlackChaliceStudio I'd like to take this opportunity to ask you about something I didn't quite understand. Do I understand correctly that a layer of acrylic paint is applied first, which is not dissolved by the alcohol, and then a layer of enamel is applied and dissolved with alcohol so that the layer of acrylic paint underneath comes out?
@@weizenfuchsfor both the enamel and acrylic reductive technique the base coats are applied to the miniature first (acrylics) then allowed sufficient time to cure properly (a few hours is usually fine)
Then for the enamel reductive technique a wash of enamel is applied then reduced using white / mineral spirits and a suitable tool.
For the acrylic reductive technique a filter or wash of acrylic is applied then reduced using isopropyl alcohol and a suitable tool, just be extra careful when using isopropyl alcohol as it’s quite easy to eat through the underlying acrylic base coats if you’re too rough!
@@BlackChaliceStudioAh, I see, so it's more about giving the underlying layer enough time to cure so it's not also affected by the removal. This info helps a lot, thank you very much! I'm already looking forward to trying it out and seeing what I can do with it.
@@weizenfuchsexactly that! Provided the base coats have cured properly and you’re gentle in your reductive passes you’ll be fine!
If in doubt I always advise practising on an old miniature first so you get the feel for it.
Ahhh the remaster is done! Awesome work BCS!
Glad it isn't just me who gets q-tip fluff everywhere! Great video.
Aha thankyou! They can be tricky suckers at times!
@BlackChaliceStudio I might try spending a little bit more next time to see if better quality ones shed less
I've been looking forward to this. 🔥
My man 🤝
Great tutorial thanks.
What is the background music? it sounds awesome!
A very informative video. Thanks for sharing those techniques.
You’re very welcome, glad you found it helpful!
Bro thank you so much.
I've been wanting to try this but had no idea how to tackle it.
Best wishes.
Glad you found it helpful sir! Thank you!
Great. Glad this helped!
Dziękujemy.
Thank you! 🙌
Is Ralph Ineson painting this marine??
Aha he could very well be! 🙌
Awesome tutorial! You guys rock!
awesome vid, easy to follow and informative
thank you for the information
Very welcome sir!
Gotta be honest, this is an impressive tutorial. 🎉 nice one.
Great video 🙌🏼🙌🏼
Thank you!
Great stuff! Two questions about Villainy Inks: 1) What’s the secret to getting them to dry matte? Even my Sector Rust seems to be drying satin/glossy 2) Is there any way to stop pigment building up in the pipette? 😅
Thank you!
In answer to your questions, villainy require proper agitation to fully mix the binder and pigment, a couple of agitator balls and a vortex mixer make short work of the mixing process!
As for the droppers, a paperclip pushed into the head of the dropper can help break up any sediment, then a thorough mix will blend everything together. Later batches came with an alternate dropper / lid which helps!
@ thanks for the reply! I thought I had the bottle well mixed but I guess not. I think I’ll have to look into getting a Vortex 😅 Any recommendations?
@ no problem at all! I use a cheap £30 one offf amazon and it works really well especially with the addition of a couple stainless agitator balls
That does seem like the way to go if you don’t want topay for like a medical grade machine. Thanks again!
Hit me up @info@grimdarkcompendium.com seems you have an old batch.
Tanks for the Video, and have a nice Day ^^
Thanks you too!
Thank you! Good day to you sir!
YEAH buddy!
Lightweight! 🙌
@BlackChaliceStudio :D
@@BlackChaliceStudio "YEEEEP...! YEEEEEP...!"
Very nice!
Thank you!
Yes!! Good!! Brother!!🕯️🖤💣🖤🕯️
Hermano de Sangre 🩸🖤🩸
Very nice!! Thanks for the vid!
Question incomming:
How long should or can i let the enamel and/or the acrylics cure before going on with reducing? Is there a anything like a timelimit? How does it change or effect the products?!
Thanks in advance for any help ❤
Is it the same process for oil washes?
how would you tackle a great unclean one in this style?
OK so I know we don't need to varnish a mini before applying enamels(though a gloss can help for recess shading) but what effect if any does a mat or ultra mat layer of varnish have on the appearance of the subsequent enamel applications? I'm also curious about what happens if you do your removal pass while the white spirit is only say half dry rather than waiting for it all to dry and then doing your removal pass with a dry brush or with a brush that is only barely damp with spirits?
I’ll only use Varnishes after the unifying washes / reductive technique to alter the finish of a particular surface and add some variation. There’s no reason you can apply varnish to the whole mini though!
You can come straight in for the reductive pass without letting the unifying washes dry of course but the effect will be pretty weak in comparison to allowing it some time to take hold on the underlying colours!
@@BlackChaliceStudio My question on mat varnishes was about the effects of putting them down before the enamels.
@@TheMichaellathrop it will essentially lock in the layers underneath it.. so you can, in theory, clean off all enamels and oils that come after it if you wanted to.
In practice... never comes back to 100%
But.. if you put down a gloss varnish then you should have a shinier surface after you've applied and cleaned off your enamels, but youre still applying layers over the top of that varnish and so if you dont clean the enamels off 100% then you will get surface/finish variation
@@EnterTheFenix so the micro texture of a mat or ultra mat surface doesn't say leave a microdot texture that doesn't come off or something else odd like that then?
Ah, no wonder I couldn't get things quite right whenever I tried using a blow dryer. I haven't been giving the enamels nearly enough time to dry.
Do you varnish once you are 100% done. I recently tried Villainy Inks out. Almost a week later and i still cant touch the model without the wash coming off
Sounds like something is wrong..i dont have that issue..
Yooo I didn't know Vin Diesel painted Warhammer! HAHA
Hello, I enjoyed the video! However, I ordered the tester kit on November 28th and it is still being processed. I would like to know when I can get the ink or if I can get a refund. I have asked the email many times, but there is no reply. I am sorry to tell you this on the channel. My order number is 96193. Thank you.