Toyota 1.6/1.8L Oil Burning -'96 Geo Prizm -Part 2 of 4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ธ.ค. 2015
- Join me on this Christmas Special as I attempt to cure a chronic oil-burning problem on this '96 Geo Prizm with almost 240k miles on the clock.
The procedures performed here will apply to these 4-cylinder engines used on Toyota Corolla and Geo/Chevy Prizm vehicles 1993 thru 2002:
1.6L 4A-FE
1.8L 7A-FE
Part 1: Intro and vehicle history, symptoms, plan of attack.
-Pre-teardown compression and leak-down check.
-Cylinder head removal.
Part 2: Piston removal/cleaning, piston ring replacement.
Part 3: Cylinder head valve cleaning/lapping.
Part 4: Reassembly, start-up, test drive, follow-up.
Enjoy the series, and Happy Holidays!
-Ivan, Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Great to see you giving an old car with tons of miles a new lease on life. The prevailing trend today is "If it's broke, just throw it away and get a new one ¯\_(ツ)_/¯"
Actually it's in my shop right now! Runs like new at 250k miles...amazing. Sweet Miata BTW :)
Nice, and thanks! This car has been an angel since I bought it. Just needed a bit of love and money thrown at it.
Whether they're pretty or beat up, I love any car that just keeps on going.
29' "That worked like a damned charm" That made me laugh Ivan! 👍🏻
Picked up a lot of tips from you on diagnostics...here are some tips on engine rebuilding you can choose to use or not. If you don't want to buy a piston ring groove cleaner you can break a ring and grind it at a 45 degree angle and it cleans grooves perfectly. If you don't check cylinder wall taper with a micrometer or dial indicator the easy way is flip the piston over & push the ring into the cylinder bore making it square & check ring gap at the top and bottom of the stroke where the rings travel in the cylinder and it'll tell you the taper. Your wear will be less at the bottom of the cylinder so if you set your ring clearance to minimum clearance at the top it'll be too tight at the bottom.Even though you can see old cross hatch your cylinder walls are glazed and you should at least run a deglazing hone down each cylinder to help the rings break-in. Newer ring materials used today are less forgiving & require a smoother bore & less break-in so we'll see what happens. Good job replacing all the rings...if you have it tore down that far you change them all. Same way with the rod bearings...if you have all the pistons out you take advantage. It'll eliminate the wear and tighten up the clearances which will increase your oil pressure some according to how much wear. I understand you are trying to do it as cheap as you can. Look forward to Part 3&4. Merry Christmas Ivan.
+Robert Hayward Is re-honeing an at home job. I always thought any stuff like that would need to be done at a machine shop. I've only stripped and engine right down like this once, a few years ago, so nowhere near an expert with this kind of stuff.
+lolz larkin You do it with a drill and a ball hone to put a 45 degree crosshatch in the cylinder. You use a variable drill (can be air) and you start spinning it outside the cylinder go to bottom & cycling to top. Several You Tube videos on it. as long as the cylinders are not out of tolerance (out of round, excessive taper, scoring, etc ) requiring reboring then you can deglaze/hone. Your engine looked OK but didn't see the amount of taper, piston skirts had some scoring but didn't look too bad but hard to see from camera. Hopefully the rings will seat ok. I've built hundreds of engines from stock to racing but I think you will be ok. Did you check the ring gap towards the bottom of the cylinder bore?
+Robert Hayward Thank you for the great tips, Robert! i am by no means a pro engine rebuilder so I appreciate the feedback :)
In cases like this (also like my Suzuki timing tensioner vids) where there is only one obvious thing wrong, I do my best to fix ONLY what's broken.
If we had unlimited funds and time, sure we could go all out and bore/hone cylinders, replace pistons, main con rod bearings, crankshaft seal, valve guides...where do you stop? And doing all that extra work, would we achieve a much better result in solving our original problem (oil burning)? Maybe. But there is also a chance to do something wrong or perhaps replace a good part with a junky aftermarket one. If those con rod bearings have gone 240k miles and are not loose or scored, I honestly feel better leaving them alone than replacing them. This is not quite a high-performance racing engine, even though the owner drives it like it is lol
At this point in the process the only thing I regret is paying a bit more attention to cleaning out those piston oil return holes; apparently those are key to keep the oil circulating through the oil ring and preventing our problem.
Merry Christmas and enjoy the next two parts! :)
+motoYam82 You're doing fine Ivan and you're meticulous. I know you''re working in a budget and only replacing what you need to...understandable with the age of the car. I've picked up some great diagnostic tips with you and just trying to return the favor & yes the oil return holes are critical to having an effective oil control ring. Your friend is lucky to have you as his mechanic!!
+Robert Hayward Robert well spotted I was thing the same things as you when watching. Overall Ivan did a nice job for someone that is not use to doing this kind of job I was waiting to see if he would use an old ring to clean the piston and honing would have been good at this stage.Many ways to skin a cat thou.
Those shiny pistons and new rings are a beautiful sight indeed Ivan! It's fun to watch you on this journey. The first time doing something that you've always wanted to do is the best. Others may not appreciate it but most of us get it. Bring on part 3!
these cars were built well for sure. nice work Ivan, and thanks for a great vid. looking forward to parts 3 and 4. Merry Christmas
I am glad to see your mixture of "shade tree mechanic" and "high tech diagnostician" can get folks back on the road for not a lot of $$$ !
Too many times people get into the moved of "while we are in here, we should change this also !" No indication of anything wrong with the bottom end so why not just reassemble. If the cross hatch looks good and the ring end gap is with in spec, go for it !
That was a good Xmas present man! Looking forward to part 3
Nice! Thanks for the video and Merry Christmas.
I was taught to coat the cylinder, rings and piston with oil before installing! gives it some lube before the oil pressure comes up! Nice job though. It pays to check clearances!
Love it Ivan! You are spending a lot more time on that car than I would. Would just be replacing pistons and shipping it.
+Jim Rini Didn't really price out new pistons...the only parts really needed for this job are piston rings, a gasket set, and some fluids! Also a lot of elbow grease :)
very nice work Ivan.
Love to work on old car, they are awesome.
Nice First time I seen pistons done on a car did plenty on mowers
Nice Job, lots of people will clean out the piston ring grooves and forget to poke out the build up on the drain holes, which defeats the purpose of changing the rings in the first place.
It hurts to admit it, but I have certainly broken a few compression rings while installing them. Ivon, your friend really must love that old beater if he's paying you anything at all for that job. :-) Anything at all has to be more than that old car is worth.. LOL But I'll admit that I've done jobs like this for my friends as well back in the days when no one could even afford to buy the proper parts for a job. Heck, we lived at the wrecking yard savaging any part we could get our hands on. I even put a Buick piston in a old Mercedes Benz once. LOL NO JOKE !! It was the right size and it used the same wrist pin. I did need to grind the skirts a little to get the proper weight, but in it went. LOL My friend drove that old Benz for a year before he finally sold it. I was just informed by the old Saw Bones that I have a horribly fast growing cancer that is very hard to treat. It does my old heart good to see good people helping their friends like we did back in the day. Don't ever lose the ability to help your friends that are willing to help you Ivon, that says allot about about a mans character. But trust me, I realize there will be many users that you you'll have to cast aside over the years. I really enjoy watching your videos, but don't tell Eric, he'll get his feelings hurt.. Just kidding, his videos are great as well.. :-)
Every mechanic has their "special brew" for impossible schmung buildup. Here's mine:
1 part Dexron III ATF
1 part naphtha oil (substitute SeaFoam if naphtha is unavailable in your area)
1 part mineral spirits
1 part diesel #2
Add 1 quart of the concoction to cold engine, idle until up to temp (do not drive!), shut down, drain oil, continue what you're working on. Also works great in larger quantities as an overnight soak for pistons and other schmungy parts. :)
Ivan so much more to know so little time.
I love watching your video you take the time to show and test it all. Please don't stop I got scanner Danner.SMA.SCHRODINDERS BOX. and you I'm a happy man
Nice video and something to watch this Christmas morning, but that's a lot of work for essentially a throwaway car.
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
+Upallnight "throwaway car"....ouch. I'm guessing you've never driven one of these hot rods?
+motoYam82 When I was a young man. It was common to see a engine rebuilt. Not so much anymore. They either move on to a newer vehicle or do a complete engine rebuild replacement.
Looking good! Thanks for sharing! Nice Christmas present for your viewers.
Merry Christmas!!
Closest cars that I have which are 4 cylinders are a couple of 70's Lotus. Now those are hot rods. Rebuilt the engines on both of them. One is a Renault 1565cc engine, the other is a Ford Cortina based Lotus Twin Cams 1600cc engine. There's a special tool made for cleaning the cruds out of the piston ring area.
+Upallnight I was thinking that the legendary +Scotty Kilmer would be very disappointed in your "throwaway car" comment about an old rebadged Toyota LOL
@
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics & everyone else. A heads up. If you use a fuel additive called FPC (US) or FTC CONCENTRATE (Australia) you will never get carbon deposits or stuck rings like this. It will also safely burn away all existing carbon deposits & free up the stuck rings like in this video.
Actions include increased fuel combustion, decreased blowby soot, deglazing cylinder bores, decarbonizing combustion chambers, pistons, piston rings, ring grooves, piston oil drain back holes & galleries, rotary engine combustion chambers, rotors & exhaust ports, exhaust valves, exhaust ports & manifolds, turbochargers, direct fuel injectors, glow plugs, spark plugs, emission sensors, Diesel Particulate Filters & catalytic converters.
Keeps new engines 100% free of carbon. Keeps older engines free of carbon after fully cleaning them.
Keeps engine oils cleaner for longer, greatly reducing engine wear & rebuilds.
For use in all engines & all fuels, incl 2 or 4 stroke & rotary engines using gasoline, E10, E85, ethanol, methanol, diesel, biodiesel, kerosene, nitromethane & all racing fuels.
Also for use in all liquid fuelled model aircraft, model cars, 4x4, trucks, boats etc.
Can also be used in lighting, heating & cooking fuels. Including dual fuel stoves & lanterns, wick & pressure lanterns, kerosene fridges, heaters, stoves, lanterns, oil heaters or any hydrocarbon or organic liquid fuelled appliances.
Been using it for 20 years.
And the best Coolant in the world is RMI-25. Cleans while you drive & doubles the life of all cooling components incl water pumps, seals, hoses & valves. Non-Toxic. Non Hazardous & 100% biodegradable. Compatible with ALL cooling systems, including dual metal & alloy types & ALL types of antifreeze, antiboil solutions and metal-based stop leaks.
These are the best & most used products in the world by governments, all industry & racing & have been for ~ or 40 + years.
Try them & you'll never want to use anything else.
Take care everyone.
You can also tighten up the rings with ring groove spacers if so desired. Less of rings slapping up and down in ring groove
If you need "ring groove spacers" then you probably need new pistons haha
Having changed rings on a vw beetle long ago, I never guessed the rings were directional or did I know about the drain holes.Why were you not showing videos back then ? Come to think of it , utube was something that went on the wheel of your bike.Great seeing the different items needed to be checked to keep it in spec.What is that expanding pliers used for generally ? The oil baked on the piston, reminds me of the deep fat frier and job it takes to clean it.That engine sure seen hotter days.Would synthetic oil have made any difference ?Where was the lip on the cylinder after all that milage ? The finished job was a sight for sore eyes-----sparkling like new !!.Looking at the oil drainer,it seemed very clean.Went through 4 corollas myself--------very reliable cars.
I like these videos
I would have honed the cylinder before I checked the end gap.
Your supposed to hone the cylinders to help the rings seat?
great videoHowever, did you prelube the rings and piston side before reinstalling???
if you have an ultra sonic crank up the heat and leave the piston in with some purple power that will loosen up those rings
How long did it take you to do this whole overhaul bro you did an awesome job
I was wondering if brake clean or carbon tetrachloride would be useful to clean the pistons before checking and removing the rings?
God, it looks so clean at the end that the pistons practically look like smiling faces. Haha!
+thecomputerman100 Made me smile too :)
Soak ur pistons in Berryman's Carb Cleaner come out wistle clean,wash them in hot water ,blow dry and ring em !!
great rebuild vid man, hey could a bad or a non Toyota genuine PCV Valve contribute to some of the Oil burning on this engine? has your buddy changed it? I've never owned anything except Honda Cars and I always use honda genuine pcv valves because they flow differently than the aftermarket ones that why I said non Toyota PCV
add 1 quart of atf to fresh oil change and let the gentle cleaning begin
synth oil prevent that issue? also use assembly lube? merry Christmas!
I would have dropped the pistons in with the old rings ( 1&2 ) also. But !!! I can't believe you didn't hone the cylinders for the new rings to seat properly.
good video specific and clear...helpful always....thx...are you gonna have any corolla 2003-2008 model ...video...how to?thx
+jirojoseph esman www.amazon.com/Toyota-Corolla-Repair-Manual-Manuals/dp/1563924552/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451069343&sr=8-2&keywords=haynes+corolla
Get it. Haynes publishes very good repair guides!
is Haynes manual a good help to you ever since?because the OEM manual is expensive.. thx
Can I just drill the holes bigger, clean the oil rings, and glue the head back on with the old gasket and No.1 Permatex?
Toyota did a recall on this, they changed the pistons because of those small or poorly placed holes.
I switched to Delo 400 oil for diesel engines since that type of engine has this kind of problem. But I don't think it will make any difference at this point.
Would maybe putting mystery oil in there get those holes unclogged? Or Lucas maybe?
whats up man i have a 93 corolla with 60k and it smokes when you start it and it burns a lot of oil does not leak it but burns it im going to do the PCV soon i use 10w 30 full S what do you think it could be i hope its the PCV ill let you know if i have to pull it a part
Could you just soak the pistons in a bucket of carb cleaner or some other liquid cleaner?
How many liters of automatic transmission oil does a toyota corolla 1994 1.6 have? I don't have the manual, it's bad if you go over the level
Bro what music are you jamming to in this video?
Wow. Thats pretty crusty. Did you use any chemicals to clean the pistons or just scrap them down?
I've heard some people drill extra oiling holes in the piston in order to aid the oiling process better. Although I'm not sure if it might not cause other problems with the piston. The condition of the compression rings, the scoring inside the cylinder would indicate that it doesn't appear to have damaged the engine. Although that engine may resist damage from the oiling burning better than the modern engines as its a cast iron block with an Aluminium head. Where as the modern Toyota engines, certainly the ones popular in the UK and Europe seem to be all Aluminium blocks with steel cylinders.
Ivan,you're that deep into that engine and used rings ?? Cmon,that's asking for a no fix situation and WDO -- I've built MANY an engine,got new parts ,USE THEM !!!!!
U need to drill out old oil passages to larger size per toyota recal spec.....
Yup. Love the vids. Only thing I do different is soak the loaded piston in oil before putting in the ring compressor. I thought it was a must but hey not telling you what to do.
+Jason Curry Sure I know that's a common procedure. Makes a nice cloud of blue smoke on start-up lol... A squirt of WD-40 is plenty of lube for start-up. Ask Eric O. on his opinion of lubing the piston rings before reassembly...he got slid on that before too :)
+motoYam82
So what happened. I was always under impression. That yea it smokes but that burns off and you are better lubed. Ex specially with new rings needing immediate lube Also wondering why no quick hone since you did use new rings. I know you still had old crosshatch but new rings like the roughness of a fresh hone. I'm just asking your side. Not being demanding!! I'm curious if the thoughts. :)
+Jason Curry A lot of people dip the piston in oil before installing, but i was taught to use WD40 decades ago and never had a problem. Ive never done rings without honing, but i really don't know if you have to hone. Merry Christmas! Chris
Soaking the piston puts lots of oil between the ring and land, this can make it hard work to compress and get into the cylinder. I always use a light oil on the skirts and coat the bore. Just my experience. Not saying it's wrong.
Nice,well done. I wonder how the new aluminum blocks manufactured today without the cast iron sleeves are going to fair in the future, so far what I read they require low tension rings . I think engines in the future are going to be a component change just like an alternator , no more rebuilding just replaceable . Engineering at its best or worst LOL
+Steve Rob Aluminum blocks without steel sleeves?? Yikes! Didn't someone try that experiment in the early 70s with not-so-stellar results? I think it was the Chevy Vega www.sunnen.com/NewsDetails.aspx?NewsID=11
So are any modern engines using this liner-less technology today?
It seems like modern engines are actually extremely well-built and long lasting, minus the variable valve timing and emissions systems. It's the rest of the car that will probably fall apart around the drivetrain lol
The future is here and technology is always ahead of production. Yes they are in use today. This is an industry magazine I always had a subscription thru work that i like. just mentioned it to Eric the other day he was reading a garage journal. this is my choice.
wardsauto.com/news-analysis/boring-trutheverybodys-got-ideas-about-treating-cylinder-bores-strong-ideas
+motoYam82 wardsauto.com/technology/big-changes-under-hood-16-bmw-3-series
Well it won't matter if the engines blows up at 50k miles in BMWs case since buyers trade in their Euro trash every few years hahaha! New tech is cool, but you know all that fancy variable timing and turbos and plastic pieces will not last very long....
meanwhile my buddy will be cruising by in his 400k mile Geo Prizm and laughing all the way to the bank!
+motoYam82 Porsche tried blocks without steel sleeves. Just some layer of "magic technology". It of course ended up with huge failure. You can just tap "porsche cayenne engine noise" in google or youtube. All those engines were piece of crap. Expensive piece of crap...
Not a bad job so far but I didn't see you clean the ring grooves or deglaze the cylinder walls.
Great video! Could you soak these in a chemical like Seafoam to loosen up all the build up?
Couldn't hurt....might take a while though! The deposits were hard as a rock!!
Drill a larger holes and also more holes.
You can use old ring fragments to clean the ring groove just dont go hog wild and scratch the piston lol
you should oil up the inside of the tool first
First ,,Merry christmas Ivan ..second are the rings over sized or stock? ..thats problem with the coked up r oil ring is what happened to a lot of Saturns ..or in the motorcycle world Suzuki had it with the bandit
+deepsquat600 I wrote that without watching the whole thing ...guess I should have :)
That is THE Ultimate Ghetto Rebuild :)
+deepsquat600 I'm all about bang for the buck :)
The help of a wider zip-tie could have saved the napa tool to buy .
Ivan, what I do is soak the pistons in Ovencleaner for a week or so, then almost all the baked oile residue is gone.
+Willem Streutgers Hah I wish I had a week for this job...had to get it done in two days!
+Willem Streutgers O, and furtehr more I allways use a engineflush before changing the oil,
Never put clean oil in a dirty engine. It will cost a few Dollars, but yo will notice the difference instantly afterwards.
But anyway as allways a nice and helpful vid. !!
There's always time to do the job right the 4th time...
Are going to check for cylinder taper??
Nope
I am with Kostas lube the crap outa the pistons And I think the holes In the piston are for the oil to go back into the pan from the walls Also can head bolts be reused?
+Joseph Tucci You are correct! Those holes move oil from the oil rings to the inside of the piston so it can drip back into the pan. Those holes also squirt a little oil over the hole in the top of the connecting rod to lubricate the wrist pin. the oil usually gets up into the cylinders under the piston when the little flat dipper on the bottom of the connecting rod splashes it up there. I assume he put some new bearings in it and used assembly lube on the bearings, but that wasn't the topic of this video. Chris
+shadowdog500 I was wondering about new rod bearings also as long as he was that deep into the engine. Shoulda put some rubber hose over the rod bolts also so as to not scratch the crankshaft when re-installing the pistons! As for me, I'd have just dumped a can of RESTORE in it. Afterall, it guarantees to restore lost compression. Says so right on the can!!!
+Durango Dave Restore doesn't work for stuck oil control rings and plugged passages. Rubber hose over the rod bolts is a good idea but not a requirement if you are careful & pull the connecting rod down onto the journal which I am sure Ivan was. If the bearings showed no sign of wear and they plasigauged fine you can reuse them if on a budget which Ivan is.
👍good
You aughta get a Toyota sign outside... I am also educated a Toyota tech back in 1999
Rule of thumb for ring gap is .004" for each 1.0" of bore..A cylinder hone is a cheap tool to have in your tool collection and easy to use...I hope you oiled the big end bearings...Otherwise you're doing ok.
+ZIGgassedUP Well for the main bearings I made a point to not wipe off the oil that was already there :)
Will that Timing Belt get re-used :(
It just got a new one at 250k miles :)
Is it just me who dunks clean pistons with new rings in oil before slipping them in the block ?
Change out the old rings. Ever heard of “metal fatigue”? Better to change rings out to avoid taking whole engine apart again.
Wouldn't it be easier if you soaked all the Pistons insolventfor 24 hours and then take the Rings off?
Who has 24 hours and a gallon of solvent?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I thought back in the day in machine shops they used to boil the block and the heads and the Pistons after submerging them and solvent for 24 hours?
Nice video...did you go to automotive school to learn all this?
+hllywd964 Nope started by tinkering with old motorcycles about 10 years ago and reading service manuals. This was the first automotive piston ring job for me. Couldn't think of an easier engine to work on than this one!
wow....I have watched most of your videos and your math and diagnostic skills are impressive! Good job!!
does everyone on YT watch or know about Dave Jones ?!?! whats with this ? lol
+CR2504life Legend. He has some fantastic Electronics Engineering tutorials!
I suggest an oil flush at least every 100k and use only 100% synthetic oil.
You should have just stuck the pistons in purple degreaser and you wouldn’t have had to change any of the rings.
you are gonna change the timing belt and connecting rod bearings, right, the gates book says to replace the belt any time you remove it, even its its a non interference engine, plus I noticed 30 number on the piston (overbore)? by the way I had a all trac with the 22 r motor and it sat for a year and smoked like _____, we took the plug s out and poured marvel oil in the spark plug hole and left in for a week with turning the engine over once in a while and the smoking stopped, it was blowing so much oil out the tail pipe it ruined the converter, ring stagger is not really a science, there are supposed to rotate in the groove , via the cross hatch in the cylinder walls, (in therory) rings in two strokes are pinned , so they dont catch on the transfer ports, great video, that engine ran hot at some point, and coked the oil (dont use the cheap stuff, like wax based oils).
Great comment. I replaced the t-belt 10k miles after the rebuild. The
engine is developing a rod knock however, at 16k miles since the
rebuild. I'll have some videos on replacing con rod bearings coming up
soon ;)
Are you listening to russian pop music ?
so in turn, change your oil... every 5k miles, no matter what type of oil your using, if its all city driving max 4k
flip that ring compressor over
That measurement is for CLEAN PISTONS NOT CARBON FILLED ONES !!!!!!!!!!!!
Can’t believe you are putting this much work into it. Watch the music, copyright nazis will find you.
Pistons are cheap for that application
+Steve Boyd Now that depends on the size of your wallet...this guy was on a budget, trust me! Did you notice he drives a beat up '96 Geo Prizm with 240k miles on it lol?
Lol your correct
You own your own Mobil diagnostic business
Should have put engine oil on the rings prior to installing. I always dip the piston and rings assembly into a can of oil prior to installing in the block. It serves as a pre-oil for the cylinder for the first start. Otherwise your cylinder is almost dry when you use WD40. I have also poured STP on the rings prior to installing.