I love photography videos on TH-cam. I'm a hobbyist, I love the artistic side but in my opinion commercial and fashion and editorial photography is probably more artistic than artistic photography. Anyway, I love your videos because you are so down to earth and you are basically the voice of reason. And I am catching up on later content.
@ 7:09 those little clamps are my only disagreement, as a photobooth owner I found the only clamps worth owning (buy once/ cry once) are the metal clamps with flat 4 inch (ish?) blades, those black n orange plastic ones don't hold any weight and I blew through a dozen in a year, but the flat bladed heads only cost a tiny bit more, but won't break and will hold heavy fabrics flat without failing.... but I digress, I love your advice in 99% of all cases, and a lil photobooth owner such as myself can learn tons from a product photographer like you! I'm looking forward to a tin house Christmas zoom party!
First off, great video. Hoping to see more like this please! Love your work and videos scott, youre a real inspiration to me. However, I would disagree about the need for an impact driver. For most applications, its just way too much power. Useful for very heavy duty applications like driving long screws into solid wood or concrete but for most of what people are going to be doing for set building, (ie shorter screws into soft woods) you will be much better off and happier with a second drill devoted to the purpose. Impact drivers have one speed and one clutch setting, which is ‘maximum’, balls to the wall, “fxxk you” power. You will blow things out with that an irritatingly high number of times if you are working with soft materials, its the ‘using a sledgehammer to crack a walnut’ analogy. Screw heads will bury themselves through wood, youll strip any kind of wall plug before you even realise the threads are under tension, its all power no finesse. My suggestion for softwoods on a budget would actually be one of the little parkside drills from lidl when they come around. They are super duper cheap - Cheap enough to buy 2 (one for drilling, one for screwing) and for light duty on softwoods will be absolutely adequate. Also they take the same batteries as other parkside tools, ie the little jigsaw they make. Again, not a ‘heavy duty’ tool but for cutting bits of mdf or ply, perhaps with a straight edge for.. well, a straight edge.. its everything you need. I own one, its worked well for me for over 3 years. Its not the right tool for every job, but its the right tool for *this* job. Source: Me. I am a woodworker, I have a fully kitted out workshop with every piece of machinery and tool you can imagine, from scary things that will remove fingers faster than you can realise there is a problem and weigh more than I can lift, to super precise measurement tools that are broken forever if you put them down too hard. I promise you one of those little drills will do you fine. Much more fun using a little Parkside drill than my big milwaukee impact driver with a 4 or 6ah battery when all I need to do is run some 3mm pilot holes in some plywood. I would also recommend a tracksaw to people looking for a step up from a handsaw for a straight edgr cut. Its basically a circular saw with a specific guide and some other features, very handy and can almost replace a table saw for a lot of uses. Festool make the best one but again, huge overkill, for softwoods anything will do, but, *upgrade the blades it comes with* as soon as you get it out the box, get something with as many teeth as possible for a smooth, clean cut. Wow, what a missive. Excited to actually have something worthwhile to contribute for once I suppose. Well done if you read this far.
As a spark/electrician on filmsets i can confirm: always put tennis balls at the end of pointy grip, extensions, booms ect. They save an eye and act as a wonderful indicator of danger before even coming close to the eye, knee, ankle thanks to the bright and bold signal colour ;-). Love your content Scott
Your safety glasses point is eye opening, I know I risk my eyes with the safety squints a lot, from miniature wargaming to carpentry and never really thought about it after years working with wood, chemicals, and power tools
This video is an excellent example of an opportunity for an affiliate link bonanza! 🎉 But you choose not to... I respect that if you intentionally avoided them. I also respect if you modify your description and fill it with affiliate links in the chance that you overlooked this opportunity.
I've taken your advice to work to find my style as I cross over from portrait to still life, as I develop my portfolio is it okay to use brand named items? I apologize if you have already covered that in another video. Your channel is amazing!
Great piece of information, it confirmed that I wasn't going crazy when started to think about what I might need for a product shot. Who pick the music at the end? That one was really something I wasn't expecting as choice of music, nothing wrong with it, just surprised.
I got my start in production doing set construction. All of these tips are great! Also, small bits of plexiglass/acrylic are useful to prop products up, aluminum foil tape is also useful in this way (only use on parts of the product that will never be visible-can leave residue), and blu tack or similar products for keeping things in place were always on set.
Can I ask where you had you acrylic 'fish tank' made. Lost of companies doing custom acrylic boxes, but not clear if they are suitable for holding water.... Thanks
Got a good feeling when you brought up that micro fiber cloths leave micro fibers. Had a strong reaction (hissy fit) from a snobby photographer when I told somebody in a comment section that you don't need to buy overpriced, unnecessarily specialized labeled items to clean your lenses with. I told somebody that buying lens tissue may have an advantage of not leaving lint behind, but you can clean your lens with toilet paper and alcohol if you want to. Somebody chimed in later about how you should only use micro fiber and that you were destined to ruin your lens by using anything other than what was specifically made for cleaning lenses.
You're not paranoid about the eye thing at all, the amount of times that I've nearly poked my eye out on the end of a c-stand boom arm is embarrassing really. Fortunately I wear glasses when I work so avoided the worst of it. I use tennis balls on the feet if I'm on a nice location and don't want to mark the floor but didn't consider using them on boom arm, I instead use bright orange gaff which is only slightly better than using nothing.
Full Workshop Here www.tinhouse-studio.com/product/pre-sale-set-building/
I think this kind of video will be very beneficial for a lot of people, so please do more of those for building sets.
Agreed. There is a billion videos out there on basic camera technicals but nothing about adjacent skills from a photographers perspective
I love photography videos on TH-cam. I'm a hobbyist, I love the artistic side but in my opinion commercial and fashion and editorial photography is probably more artistic than artistic photography. Anyway, I love your videos because you are so down to earth and you are basically the voice of reason. And I am catching up on later content.
@ 7:09 those little clamps are my only disagreement, as a photobooth owner I found the only clamps worth owning (buy once/ cry once) are the metal clamps with flat 4 inch (ish?) blades, those black n orange plastic ones don't hold any weight and I blew through a dozen in a year, but the flat bladed heads only cost a tiny bit more, but won't break and will hold heavy fabrics flat without failing.... but I digress, I love your advice in 99% of all cases, and a lil photobooth owner such as myself can learn tons from a product photographer like you! I'm looking forward to a tin house Christmas zoom party!
First off, great video. Hoping to see more like this please! Love your work and videos scott, youre a real inspiration to me.
However, I would disagree about the need for an impact driver. For most applications, its just way too much power. Useful for very heavy duty applications like driving long screws into solid wood or concrete but for most of what people are going to be doing for set building, (ie shorter screws into soft woods) you will be much better off and happier with a second drill devoted to the purpose. Impact drivers have one speed and one clutch setting, which is ‘maximum’, balls to the wall, “fxxk you” power. You will blow things out with that an irritatingly high number of times if you are working with soft materials, its the ‘using a sledgehammer to crack a walnut’ analogy. Screw heads will bury themselves through wood, youll strip any kind of wall plug before you even realise the threads are under tension, its all power no finesse. My suggestion for softwoods on a budget would actually be one of the little parkside drills from lidl when they come around. They are super duper cheap - Cheap enough to buy 2 (one for drilling, one for screwing) and for light duty on softwoods will be absolutely adequate. Also they take the same batteries as other parkside tools, ie the little jigsaw they make. Again, not a ‘heavy duty’ tool but for cutting bits of mdf or ply, perhaps with a straight edge for.. well, a straight edge.. its everything you need. I own one, its worked well for me for over 3 years. Its not the right tool for every job, but its the right tool for *this* job.
Source: Me. I am a woodworker, I have a fully kitted out workshop with every piece of machinery and tool you can imagine, from scary things that will remove fingers faster than you can realise there is a problem and weigh more than I can lift, to super precise measurement tools that are broken forever if you put them down too hard. I promise you one of those little drills will do you fine. Much more fun using a little Parkside drill than my big milwaukee impact driver with a 4 or 6ah battery when all I need to do is run some 3mm pilot holes in some plywood.
I would also recommend a tracksaw to people looking for a step up from a handsaw for a straight edgr cut. Its basically a circular saw with a specific guide and some other features, very handy and can almost replace a table saw for a lot of uses. Festool make the best one but again, huge overkill, for softwoods anything will do, but, *upgrade the blades it comes with* as soon as you get it out the box, get something with as many teeth as possible for a smooth, clean cut.
Wow, what a missive. Excited to actually have something worthwhile to contribute for once I suppose. Well done if you read this far.
I agree 100%. Use the torque setting on most drills and you’ll never strip a screw head again.
As a spark/electrician on filmsets i can confirm: always put tennis balls at the end of pointy grip, extensions, booms ect. They save an eye and act as a wonderful indicator of danger before even coming close to the eye, knee, ankle thanks to the bright and bold signal colour ;-). Love your content Scott
The fish tank advice is pure gold. I've actually never seen a custom-made one this small but it makes so much sense. No water-pump, no hassle :)
The paddling pool is ingenious!!
Your safety glasses point is eye opening, I know I risk my eyes with the safety squints a lot, from miniature wargaming to carpentry and never really thought about it after years working with wood, chemicals, and power tools
Who knew somebody still makes photography TH-cam videos that are actually worth a damn
Thanks a lot for taking my advice Scott. This was a very helpful video and you should absolutely do more of these...
Brilliant, this is the sort of content I want to see
This video is an excellent example of an opportunity for an affiliate link bonanza! 🎉 But you choose not to... I respect that if you intentionally avoided them. I also respect if you modify your description and fill it with affiliate links in the chance that you overlooked this opportunity.
The jigsaw is also great when you need to make something with curves or circles.
Awesome work. What’s the arm/clamp you use to hold the shoe up?
I've taken your advice to work to find my style as I cross over from portrait to still life, as I develop my portfolio is it okay to use brand named items? I apologize if you have already covered that in another video. Your channel is amazing!
Fascinating. Thank you.
Cool this looks fun 😊😮
Have no use for such info personally, but found it fun and riveting. Thank you for pulling back the curtain and sharing your knowledge!!
Great piece of information, it confirmed that I wasn't going crazy when started to think about what I might need for a product shot.
Who pick the music at the end? That one was really something I wasn't expecting as choice of music, nothing wrong with it, just surprised.
Scott, do you recommend a specific brand when it comes to C-stands?
I got my start in production doing set construction. All of these tips are great! Also, small bits of plexiglass/acrylic are useful to prop products up, aluminum foil tape is also useful in this way (only use on parts of the product that will never be visible-can leave residue), and blu tack or similar products for keeping things in place were always on set.
Thanks Scott, this video was perfectly timed for me!
Great to hear!
Thank a ton Scott, I do product photography for cigar brands and I’ve been stuck in a rut! I needed this so video.
Glad it was helpful!
Can I ask where you had you acrylic 'fish tank' made. Lost of companies doing custom acrylic boxes, but not clear if they are suitable for holding water.... Thanks
Buy your drill bits... bit by bit. Saw what you did there
Got a good feeling when you brought up that micro fiber cloths leave micro fibers.
Had a strong reaction (hissy fit) from a snobby photographer when I told somebody in a comment section that you don't need to buy overpriced, unnecessarily specialized labeled items to clean your lenses with.
I told somebody that buying lens tissue may have an advantage of not leaving lint behind, but you can clean your lens with toilet paper and alcohol if you want to.
Somebody chimed in later about how you should only use micro fiber and that you were destined to ruin your lens by using anything other than what was specifically made for cleaning lenses.
You're not paranoid about the eye thing at all, the amount of times that I've nearly poked my eye out on the end of a c-stand boom arm is embarrassing really. Fortunately I wear glasses when I work so avoided the worst of it. I use tennis balls on the feet if I'm on a nice location and don't want to mark the floor but didn't consider using them on boom arm, I instead use bright orange gaff which is only slightly better than using nothing.
Rubber mallet is also useful for massaging your car exhaust into the correct position 😅
You look like a mad scientist in your lab/studio 😂.
with safety glasses, does it include people wearing glasses?
Depends on what your lenses are made of. If they are glass, then deffo safety glasses in front.
@@TinHouseStudioUK i wear glasses all the time, whenever i put glasses ontop of them, I just get uncomfortable with it
@@TinHouseStudioUK basically contact lenses
All Mad Props stuff seems to be "Out of stock"!
Just had QVC on the phone looking for your contact details. ;-)
Haha, my partner works with them a lot as talent
Always admired those who can talk for ages about mundane items. A skill to be sure.
@@TinHouseStudioUK
Quality, value, convenience..! Man that takes me back. QVC was a phenomenon when we got all cable for the first time in North London in the 90s
I appreciate you, but your drill knowledge is not there lol You flip flopped on the impact and drill.