What a nice video comparisons which displaces opinions with test results on several formats. People support anti-skate opinions with various theories often criticizing smooth surface method among others, I was ready to swallow it all too. I have set the anti-skate system each side of the factory recommendations of the Sure tone arm manufacturer slightly, then carefully listened for changes and came to the conclusion I could hear none. Thank you for clearing the audiopile coiled heap from the room. I employed the laymans methods and they all correspond well for verification, thus comparing well to the physical calibration scales on my tonearm. It seems in the case of anti-skate that close and reasonable are 'good enough for government work'. Your video saved me some coin so now I will not throw money at test records or electronic tone/test equipment. That money will buy more records. Well done!
The skate force is always pulling the stylus to one side. So it is always off center. The "anti-skate pulls the arm one way and the record pulls the stylus the other way. So the system is flawed by design. I realized this this other day and bought a linear tracking setup. It has no skate force and sounds amazing.
Good morning, Thanks for this excellent video and analysis. I am French. Sorry for my broken English... I have a Technics SL 1500C with an Audiotechnica VM740ML at 2gr of tracking force. The turntable is horizontal and I tested the method with a blank vinyl record. The tracking force needed for the stylus to not move and stay in the center of the vinyl is 3g. I then listened to a classical music vinyl on headphones and also the Elipson test disc at different frequencies. By varying the antiskating between 0 and 3gr, I noticed no stereophonic shift or distortion. I deduce that this antiskating setting has no influence on the listening quality and therefore I wisely reset my antistaking to 2gr as recommended by Technics...
I have an AKAI AP-D210 servo controlled direct drive turntable. The anti skate it uses is a simple spring. So when I put the stylus on a blank disc and turn the anti skate knob the needle will settle at a certain position on the disc. So what I found logical to do in my case was to adjust the anti skate so that the sylus would settle at around the center of the 12" disc I used.
Wonderful video, including presentation - e.g., top view and post-it notes make it easy to "rewind" and find section I'm wanting to look at again. I discovered that my discogs collection notes came in handy: my 1980 McCartney II album 7" promo has a blank back side (sorry, sounds rude!). I also plan to try the Shroder-Lederman method. I'm a few steps down from your record player with an ATLP120USB; I set up according to specs and anti-skate at 2 (out of 7!), but I've noticed the few times I've digitized that one channel is slightly louder (not sure if it's left or right). I'm also very interested in getting one of these test records, but don't know enough to decide which.
Thanks for the kind words, Alan! Skating doesn't seem to add too much gain mismatch in my limited testing. Cartridge imbalance is more of a culprit (0.5dB isn't a surprise), and even the internal preamp on the ATLP120USB as well as the soundcard preamp/ADC. Error can really add up to 1dB easily which would look like one channel is only 90% of the other.
The skating force acting on grooveless surface is not same as in grooves. Because on blank surface only stylus tip which is not the intended contact point is touching the record. It should be like that if antiskating is set according to test tone (equal distortion on both channels) then on the blank track the stylus should move inwards at moderate speed (roughly the speed of runout groove). It's discussed on forums that if the stylus sits still on blank track there is already too much antiskate applied.
It varies across the record, as showed with the laser disc method. The stylus sits still on blank track only between the null points, If that happens in the begining, than there is too much antiskate applied. But that's just for demonstration purposes, as the laserdisc is taller than vinyl, changing the VTA, which is why I use the Frank Schroder method.
I have the Audio Technica AT-LP120XUSB turntable with the VM95ML cartridge, and the only method that works for me is the "laser disc method." Unfortunately, I don't have the fancy meter device shown in the video to get more exact. This turntable model is notorious for having a bad anti-skate adjustment, but at least it can be done. I bought a blank record from Amazon to perform the adjustment. The recommended counter-weight for my cartridge is 2 g, but the anti-skate setting that keeps the tonearm in the center is 1! If I set it to 2 (which is what the manual says to do), the tonearm just flings backwards towards the edge of the blank record. If I have a real record on the platter, the tonearm snaps up and over when I lift it at the runout. So, I keep at a 1 until I have a better way to make this adjustment (or get a better turntable).
I really like the Audio-Technica AT-LP120XUSB - just recommended to someone this morning. And I love my VM95ML - such a great cart with its micro line diamond.
@@parksaudiollc4697 Don't get me wrong, I think it's a good turntable, but you just have to be aware of a couple of its quirks: (1) the anti-skate adjustment is wonky as I mentioned in my previous comment; (2) the tonearm cueing mechanism well may need some damping fluid. If you don't fix the latter, the tonearm will just drop like a bomb onto the record. Otherwise, for its price category, it's a very solid fully manual, direct drive starter table.
Maybe you’ll see my comment. I have the same turntable and exactly what you commented is what’s happening to me! I’m set at 2.0 tracking force but the same setting with anti skate wants to fling the tone arm off the surface! I’m set just around .5 and it seems to be fine.
@@utp216 So, last year I had the opportunity to purchase an open-box return Technics SL-1210GR for a good discount at a warehouse sale. Problem solved. This beast is precise. I probably won't need to buy another TT for the rest of my life.
Setting the antiskate adjustment to the same adjustment as the tonearn weight is absolutely correct. This theory, that a tone arm should be motionless on a groove-less spinning disc is absolutely incorrect according to a phonograph technician I spoke with at length. Actually doing as this theory advocates can cause irreparable damage to the record and stylus. Actually, Anti-Skate is supposed to add a very small (slight) amount of outward force (toward the edge of record) DEFINITELY NOT CAUSING THE TONEARM TO BE MOTIONLESS. With the proper amount of Anti-Skate applied, the TONEARM will still move toward the center of the groove-less disc but at a slightly slower rate of speed compared to the slightly faster inward speed of TONEARM movement if no Anti-Skate was applied.
Hi! Thank you for this excellent, informative video. My question/situation is almost identical to another commenter's, but I wanted to ask nevertheless in case your views have changed since you last addressed it: I have a Technics 1200-MK5 with a AT-VM540ML cartridge. I've been told by some other people with similar setups (who have used audio-based test records as a reference) that for a VTF of 2 grams, they adjust the anti-skate to about 2.5. Unfortunately, the hearing in my right ear--while generally good--is not as robust as my in left (or at least emphasizes certain frequencies over others). So when I do listening tests with a 2/2.5 adjustment, comparing vinyl playback to digital copies of the same songs, the left/right channels sound fairly similar to my (imperfect) ears. But it's obviously an inexact measurement. However, I'm concerned because when I drop the stylus into the outer groove, it always jumps inward a little--not enough to skip into the first track, but enough that it seems odd to me. Similarly, when I do the famous Soundsmith test, I don't see the stylus move slowly to the center label unless I dial up the anti-skate to between 3-3.5. That seems rather high to me. And while that sounds "good," I'm concerned it's too much anti-skate and not an accurate reflection of the music (checking it with my ears, it seems like it does get louder than it probably should in the right channel when I dial up the anti-skate to fit the Soundsmith methodology). [General disclosure here that my turntable is about as level as I can get it with the old, wooden floors in my house.] So my basic question is: should I just settle for the 2.5 anti-skate setting? Is it normal for an ML stylus to skid a bit more in the inner/outer grooves? I'll note that it only does this when I lower the stylus onto the unpressed surface and doesn't skip at all during playback. Thanks!
I think the whole idea is more about balancing stylus wear and handling very loud passages (and scratches). I think you can err a little on the lower side and be safe and happy. So 1.5 to 2 may be best for your setup and peace of mind, particularly if you notice pulling in on a needle drop.
I have a Technics DL-D3 similar looking unit but older. I found a massive non linearity in the gimbal bearings. I since made a cantilever tonearm and threw the old tonearm in the bin. Check linearity with a laser disk across the whole disk and look for a sort of binding. Nobody checks for worn or defective components.
Why do you set the gain on the amp to a particular level other than full volume? How do you use the amp to test the Puffin? What tests can I perform on my Puffin to confirm my Turntable and Puffin are working as well as possible?
Your cartridge tracked poorly on the test records...so much so, irrespective of lateral bias, that I'd look at the cartridge recommended VTF - they are often 'optimistic' in their suggested setting......I think you were on 2grams, what is the range for that cartridge?
Thank you, i like your video. At home, I noticed enormously different values depending on my stylus I test 3 white lp and depending on the thickness and the material of the lp .the values are all different. For example, for a audio Technica VM95C conical stylus I will have a value of 2 antiskating for a weight of 2 but for my audio technica VM540 ML microline I will have a value of 3 antiskating for a weight of 2. Is this possible? From my many readings, I have always heard that it is better to put less than too much when you hesitate. n 2015, I had an audio technica lp120 whose antiskating did not work at all. I used a microline 3 years on it every day. When I realized the antiskating wasn't working I didn't notice a problem with the stylus, it was still straight. This reassures me in case I put the value too low
While the conical and micro-linear diamonds will have different surface contact with the vinyl, the distributed force will be equal, so I can't answer your first question. This must be a variable or variables I don't yet understand. Maybe the differing compliance between these two carts affects this measurement? I would agree with you that it is better to err on the side of too little anti-skate than too much. Peter Ledermann of Soundsmith states in his anti-skate video that he's seen many worn styli indicative of too much anti-skate, so that seems a good argument for this methodology.
I saw in an old Marantz turntable manual they recommended using the same amount of antiskating as the tracking force (like Technics), however in their manual it applied for conical styli only, elliptical ones required more antiskating, it was 2.5 or 3 (I’m not sure now, maybe even 2.75) for 2 grams of VTF, there was a graph for both of them. However, if I use the blank disc method, I notice that my Technics does require more antiskating for microline styli comapared to spherical and elliptical, when I track at 2 grams, the antiskating for Audio-Technica VM740ML (microline) is 2.4, for Ortofon OM5 (spherical) , Audio-Technica VM95C (conical) and VM520EB (elliptical) it ranges somewhere between 1.4 to 1.6. It is also dependent on azimuth and VTA, if your VTA is set too high, even the maximum setting of 3 may not be enough.
@@parksaudiollc4697 Rega Planar 1 plus deck the anti skating weight is built in.I saw one TH-cam video where the tonearm had to be removed to adjust anti skating.
@@likklej8 Yes, these are basically a fixed setting by Rega and apparently require some DIY modding. I prefer the old-fashioned "weight and string method" which can mod any tonearm without disassembly or hardware mods. I use that with my Audio Technica ATP-12T.
I use a TrueRMS method, so quite accurate but note this measurement is relative to full scale (dBFS). The 24-bit ADC smokes the typical o'scope 8-bit ADC, too.
It appears that the LaserDisk method was probably even more accurate than measuring the signal (which is technically measuring difference between channels in dB).
Thank you for the great info. I recently bought a Technics MKII and when the anti skate is turned up between 1.5 and 3 the tonearm(with headshell attached) moves backwards to the outside of the record a bit when you lift the cue lever. I know that the higher anti skate number would pull more to the outside but on my MK3's when I crank up the anti skate to 3 the needle lift and drops in the same spot. Should the needle jump back a bit when lifting the tonearm cue from the inner tracks when the anti skate is turned up which makes it not drop in the same spot. If you lift and drop over and over it jumps back more and more to the outside of the record. Thanks so much. I really appreciate it. I just don't remember my MK3's doing this.
Whether it should or not depends a bit on the cue platform as well. Most of the Technics ones are made of rubber and should have a bit of stickyness to them that grips the tonearm so that it doesnt pull back when you lift the arm, even at a lot of Anti Skate. But this rubber dries out over time and becomes less sticky, so its hard to say if you too much Anti Skate just judging from that aspect.
I had this problem when I got a little silicone fluid from the KAB Fluid Damper on the rubber strip on the cue lift. As mentioned above it could be dried out old rubber that’s lost it’s grip. You can try a rubber cleaner if there’s something on it or if it’s lost it’s grip from age you can lightly sand it with some 220 grit sandpaper to put some friction back onto the surface.
I find having a full side blank record is essential to really see what's happening with your anti skating. Too many of these test records do the test at some specific point across the side, but I have seen plenty of anti skating devices that will pull outward from the inside groove, and inward from the outer groove. Or will have much more sideways pull for the first half of the side, which then drops off to almost nothing towards the end. It also shows how useless the method where you twist the lead out wire for the arm to provide some sideways pull is. I have found the best source for one sided records is to find a record store that has a lot of DJ dance music pressings. You can often find test pressings that were distributed to DJs with music on one side only. Look for a blank white label on one side.
Waxwing is the Puffin 2.0 - same audio circuit and functionality, though I've removed the Anti-Skate function. Laserdisc method just works the best and is simple.
What a nice video comparisons which displaces opinions with test results on several formats. People support anti-skate opinions with various theories often criticizing smooth surface method among others, I was ready to swallow it all too. I have set the anti-skate system each side of the factory recommendations of the Sure tone arm manufacturer slightly, then carefully listened for changes and came to the conclusion I could hear none. Thank you for clearing the audiopile coiled heap from the room. I employed the laymans methods and they all correspond well for verification, thus comparing well to the physical calibration scales on my tonearm. It seems in the case of anti-skate that close and reasonable are 'good enough for government work'. Your video saved me some coin so now I will not throw money at test records or electronic tone/test equipment. That money will buy more records. Well done!
The skate force is always pulling the stylus to one side. So it is always off center. The "anti-skate pulls the arm one way and the record pulls the stylus the other way. So the system is flawed by design. I realized this this other day and bought a linear tracking setup. It has no skate force and sounds amazing.
Good morning,
Thanks for this excellent video and analysis. I am French. Sorry for my broken English...
I have a Technics SL 1500C with an Audiotechnica VM740ML at 2gr of tracking force. The turntable is horizontal and I tested the method with a blank vinyl record. The tracking force needed for the stylus to not move and stay in the center of the vinyl is 3g.
I then listened to a classical music vinyl on headphones and also the Elipson test disc at different frequencies. By varying the antiskating between 0 and 3gr, I noticed no stereophonic shift or distortion. I deduce that this antiskating setting has no influence on the listening quality and therefore I wisely reset my antistaking to 2gr as recommended by Technics...
I have an AKAI AP-D210 servo controlled direct drive turntable. The anti skate it uses is a simple spring.
So when I put the stylus on a blank disc and turn the anti skate knob the needle will settle at a certain position on the disc.
So what I found logical to do in my case was to adjust the anti skate so that the sylus would settle at around the center of the 12" disc I used.
Wonderful video, including presentation - e.g., top view and post-it notes make it easy to "rewind" and find section I'm wanting to look at again. I discovered that my discogs collection notes came in handy: my 1980 McCartney II album 7" promo has a blank back side (sorry, sounds rude!). I also plan to try the Shroder-Lederman method. I'm a few steps down from your record player with an ATLP120USB; I set up according to specs and anti-skate at 2 (out of 7!), but I've noticed the few times I've digitized that one channel is slightly louder (not sure if it's left or right). I'm also very interested in getting one of these test records, but don't know enough to decide which.
Thanks for the kind words, Alan!
Skating doesn't seem to add too much gain mismatch in my limited testing. Cartridge imbalance is more of a culprit (0.5dB isn't a surprise), and even the internal preamp on the ATLP120USB as well as the soundcard preamp/ADC. Error can really add up to 1dB easily which would look like one channel is only 90% of the other.
The skating force acting on grooveless surface is not same as in grooves. Because on blank surface only stylus tip which is not the intended contact point is touching the record. It should be like that if antiskating is set according to test tone (equal distortion on both channels) then on the blank track the stylus should move inwards at moderate speed (roughly the speed of runout groove). It's discussed on forums that if the stylus sits still on blank track there is already too much antiskate applied.
It varies across the record, as showed with the laser disc method. The stylus sits still on blank track only between the null points, If that happens in the begining, than there is too much antiskate applied. But that's just for demonstration purposes, as the laserdisc is taller than vinyl, changing the VTA, which is why I use the Frank Schroder method.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! this is the most useful video especially the schroeder method .
I have the Audio Technica AT-LP120XUSB turntable with the VM95ML cartridge, and the only method that works for me is the "laser disc method." Unfortunately, I don't have the fancy meter device shown in the video to get more exact. This turntable model is notorious for having a bad anti-skate adjustment, but at least it can be done. I bought a blank record from Amazon to perform the adjustment. The recommended counter-weight for my cartridge is 2 g, but the anti-skate setting that keeps the tonearm in the center is 1! If I set it to 2 (which is what the manual says to do), the tonearm just flings backwards towards the edge of the blank record. If I have a real record on the platter, the tonearm snaps up and over when I lift it at the runout. So, I keep at a 1 until I have a better way to make this adjustment (or get a better turntable).
I really like the Audio-Technica AT-LP120XUSB - just recommended to someone this morning. And I love my VM95ML - such a great cart with its micro line diamond.
@@parksaudiollc4697 Don't get me wrong, I think it's a good turntable, but you just have to be aware of a couple of its quirks: (1) the anti-skate adjustment is wonky as I mentioned in my previous comment; (2) the tonearm cueing mechanism well may need some damping fluid. If you don't fix the latter, the tonearm will just drop like a bomb onto the record. Otherwise, for its price category, it's a very solid fully manual, direct drive starter table.
Maybe you’ll see my comment. I have the same turntable and exactly what you commented is what’s happening to me! I’m set at 2.0 tracking force but the same setting with anti skate wants to fling the tone arm off the surface! I’m set just around .5 and it seems to be fine.
@@utp216 So, last year I had the opportunity to purchase an open-box return Technics SL-1210GR for a good discount at a warehouse sale. Problem solved. This beast is precise. I probably won't need to buy another TT for the rest of my life.
Setting the antiskate adjustment to the same adjustment as the tonearn weight is absolutely correct.
This theory, that a tone arm should be motionless on a groove-less spinning disc is absolutely incorrect according to a phonograph technician I spoke with at length. Actually doing as this theory advocates can cause irreparable damage to the record and stylus.
Actually, Anti-Skate is supposed to add a very small (slight) amount of outward force (toward the edge of record) DEFINITELY NOT CAUSING THE TONEARM TO BE MOTIONLESS. With the proper amount of Anti-Skate applied, the TONEARM will still move toward the center of the groove-less disc but at a slightly slower rate of speed compared to the slightly faster inward speed of TONEARM movement if no Anti-Skate was applied.
Basically, Peter Ledermann and Frank Schroeder were right
Hi! Thank you for this excellent, informative video. My question/situation is almost identical to another commenter's, but I wanted to ask nevertheless in case your views have changed since you last addressed it:
I have a Technics 1200-MK5 with a AT-VM540ML cartridge. I've been told by some other people with similar setups (who have used audio-based test records as a reference) that for a VTF of 2 grams, they adjust the anti-skate to about 2.5. Unfortunately, the hearing in my right ear--while generally good--is not as robust as my in left (or at least emphasizes certain frequencies over others). So when I do listening tests with a 2/2.5 adjustment, comparing vinyl playback to digital copies of the same songs, the left/right channels sound fairly similar to my (imperfect) ears. But it's obviously an inexact measurement.
However, I'm concerned because when I drop the stylus into the outer groove, it always jumps inward a little--not enough to skip into the first track, but enough that it seems odd to me. Similarly, when I do the famous Soundsmith test, I don't see the stylus move slowly to the center label unless I dial up the anti-skate to between 3-3.5. That seems rather high to me. And while that sounds "good," I'm concerned it's too much anti-skate and not an accurate reflection of the music (checking it with my ears, it seems like it does get louder than it probably should in the right channel when I dial up the anti-skate to fit the Soundsmith methodology). [General disclosure here that my turntable is about as level as I can get it with the old, wooden floors in my house.]
So my basic question is: should I just settle for the 2.5 anti-skate setting? Is it normal for an ML stylus to skid a bit more in the inner/outer grooves? I'll note that it only does this when I lower the stylus onto the unpressed surface and doesn't skip at all during playback. Thanks!
I think the whole idea is more about balancing stylus wear and handling very loud passages (and scratches). I think you can err a little on the lower side and be safe and happy. So 1.5 to 2 may be best for your setup and peace of mind, particularly if you notice pulling in on a needle drop.
I have a Technics DL-D3 similar looking unit but older. I found a massive non linearity in the gimbal bearings. I since made a cantilever tonearm and threw the old tonearm in the bin. Check linearity with a laser disk across the whole disk and look for a sort of binding. Nobody checks for worn or defective components.
Great video - quick note - another LP with no audio for anti-skate testing is "Joe Jackson - Big World" - side 4 of this album is blank.
Thank you! And thanks for the rec - just bought a copy. Huge Joe Jackson fan, and have all his albums but this one.
Sunken Condos- Donald Fagan, side 4. Added to the list.
Pat Metheny - Orchestion (blank side 4)
The Fall-The Marshall Suite. Blank side 4 on the first pressing. Fortunately it recently got quite a good 3-sided repress so I've been using that one!
Why do you set the gain on the amp to a particular level other than full volume?
How do you use the amp to test the Puffin?
What tests can I perform on my Puffin to confirm my Turntable and Puffin are working as well as possible?
How does other Turntable that doesn't have anti-scading adjustment works?
Your cartridge tracked poorly on the test records...so much so, irrespective of lateral bias, that I'd look at the cartridge recommended VTF - they are often 'optimistic' in their suggested setting......I think you were on 2grams, what is the range for that cartridge?
Man I wish I could get my hands on a Puffin.
Make sure it is 18 yrs old😳
Thank you, i like your video. At home, I noticed enormously different values depending on my stylus I test 3 white lp and depending on the thickness and the material of the lp .the values are all different. For example, for a audio Technica VM95C conical stylus I will have a value of 2 antiskating for a weight of 2 but for my audio technica VM540 ML microline I will have a value of 3 antiskating for a weight of 2. Is this possible? From my many readings, I have always heard that it is better to put less than too much when you hesitate. n 2015, I had an audio technica lp120 whose antiskating did not work at all. I used a microline 3 years on it every day. When I realized the antiskating wasn't working I didn't notice a problem with the stylus, it was still straight. This reassures me in case I put the value too low
While the conical and micro-linear diamonds will have different surface contact with the vinyl, the distributed force will be equal, so I can't answer your first question. This must be a variable or variables I don't yet understand. Maybe the differing compliance between these two carts affects this measurement?
I would agree with you that it is better to err on the side of too little anti-skate than too much. Peter Ledermann of Soundsmith states in his anti-skate video that he's seen many worn styli indicative of too much anti-skate, so that seems a good argument for this methodology.
I saw in an old Marantz turntable manual they recommended using the same amount of antiskating as the tracking force (like Technics), however in their manual it applied for conical styli only, elliptical ones required more antiskating, it was 2.5 or 3 (I’m not sure now, maybe even 2.75) for 2 grams of VTF, there was a graph for both of them. However, if I use the blank disc method, I notice that my Technics does require more antiskating for microline styli comapared to spherical and elliptical, when I track at 2 grams, the antiskating for Audio-Technica VM740ML (microline) is 2.4, for Ortofon OM5 (spherical) , Audio-Technica VM95C (conical) and VM520EB (elliptical) it ranges somewhere between 1.4 to 1.6. It is also dependent on azimuth and VTA, if your VTA is set too high, even the maximum setting of 3 may not be enough.
Will a different turntable Matt help? Some modern plug in and go decks have a built in anti skate which might mean taking off the tone arm?
1) I don't think a different mat will affect the skating. 2) I'm afraid I don't understand your second question - apologies.
@@parksaudiollc4697 Rega Planar 1 plus deck the anti skating weight is built in.I saw one TH-cam video where the tonearm had to be removed to adjust anti skating.
@@likklej8 Yes, these are basically a fixed setting by Rega and apparently require some DIY modding. I prefer the old-fashioned "weight and string method" which can mod any tonearm without disassembly or hardware mods. I use that with my Audio Technica ATP-12T.
How accurate is this instrument ? Have you compared with oscillocospe and voltmeter?
I use a TrueRMS method, so quite accurate but note this measurement is relative to full scale (dBFS). The 24-bit ADC smokes the typical o'scope 8-bit ADC, too.
It appears that the LaserDisk method was probably even more accurate than measuring the signal (which is technically measuring difference between channels in dB).
Thank you for the great info. I recently bought a Technics MKII and when the anti skate is turned up between 1.5 and 3 the tonearm(with headshell attached) moves backwards to the outside of the record a bit when you lift the cue lever. I know that the higher anti skate number would pull more to the outside but on my MK3's when I crank up the anti skate to 3 the needle lift and drops in the same spot. Should the needle jump back a bit when lifting the tonearm cue from the inner tracks when the anti skate is turned up which makes it not drop in the same spot. If you lift and drop over and over it jumps back more and more to the outside of the record. Thanks so much. I really appreciate it. I just don't remember my MK3's doing this.
Whether it should or not depends a bit on the cue platform as well. Most of the Technics ones are made of rubber and should have a bit of stickyness to them that grips the tonearm so that it doesnt pull back when you lift the arm, even at a lot of Anti Skate. But this rubber dries out over time and becomes less sticky, so its hard to say if you too much Anti Skate just judging from that aspect.
I had this problem when I got a little silicone fluid from the KAB Fluid Damper on the rubber strip on the cue lift. As mentioned above it could be dried out old rubber that’s lost it’s grip. You can try a rubber cleaner if there’s something on it or if it’s lost it’s grip from age you can lightly sand it with some 220 grit sandpaper to put some friction back onto the surface.
the exact happens to me too.. however i never researched for the reason...
I find having a full side blank record is essential to really see what's happening with your anti skating. Too many of these test records do the test at some specific point across the side, but I have seen plenty of anti skating devices that will pull outward from the inside groove, and inward from the outer groove. Or will have much more sideways pull for the first half of the side, which then drops off to almost nothing towards the end. It also shows how useless the method where you twist the lead out wire for the arm to provide some sideways pull is.
I have found the best source for one sided records is to find a record store that has a lot of DJ dance music pressings. You can often find test pressings that were distributed to DJs with music on one side only. Look for a blank white label on one side.
Tech - nicks is wild
Lmao you can't even find a puffins phono pre-amp anywhere anymore at this point so I wonder how expensive they are.
Waxwing is the Puffin 2.0 - same audio circuit and functionality, though I've removed the Anti-Skate function. Laserdisc method just works the best and is simple.
so 2.57
You really want to have a precise arm with perfect anti-skating: invest in a tangential arm!
Nerd vid.