1800W, 10-60V to 12-96V Constant Current DC to DC Boost Converter, for Ebike, and Battery Charger.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- This is a test video for the 1800W Boost converter from Amazon.
this boost converter has a wide input voltage range of 10 to 60V and output voltage range of 12 to 97V. This test explores the true rating of this converter at different input levels to show what the expected power output should be at a given input voltage.
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Great video sir, I have been searching for answers regarding these boost converters for so long and your video answered every question I had, thank you!
Thanks a lot for the great feedback.👍👍👍
I love to hear that our videos are helping people as we intended. It makes the effort worthwhile.
Please you can help motivate our channel by sharing our videos with friends and DIY interest groups. This way, we will continue to reach a wider audience.
There seem to be a popular misunderstanding regarding the power rating of these converters. So I made this test video to provide some insight on what to expect when using these DC - DC Boost converters. Even though they are rated from a nominal power delivery of 1500W and a max of 1800W, the amount of power it delivers is proportional to the input voltage level used to drive the unit. For those hoping to use this unit or something similar for 12V applications, please watch this video till the end - so you can know what to expect.
Just seeing this today, so 200Ah 12v will take it closer to the rated output watts?
thanks for this video is really helping to me.i learned lot of things from this channel.and thank you again for that.good luck boss
Thanks a lot for the wonderful comment friend!
That is the goal of The Innovation Lab.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 ^^
Great video! Very well explained!!
Thank you so much for the wonderful feedback!
👍👍
These videos take quite some effort to make and I am always inspired by constructive and positive feedback such as yours!
Thanks again!
Thanks for the output wattage explanation. Could You please explain what is another trimpot (on the middle near fan) purpose for? thanks
Thanks a lot for the great feedback.
That is the undervoltage protection (UVP) potentiometer.
Please watch the video below - it was explained in great detail.
👇👇👇
th-cam.com/video/t8Aaz4iQeXY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GAxCOSQGX0gn7KOx
I hope this helps you.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
I paid less for two of them on my project. I am using two in parallel so I can get a 54 volt out put at 35 amps without over heating of just one step up buck converter. I need a total of 1890 watts so I am exceeding the limits of one so two in parallel should work just fine. As long as the variable resistors on the board keep their tolerances without any deviations on voltages I have seen on other power supplies that have these 102 blue-box potentiometers. We'll see. I am building a 1.2 kw amplifier for 160-6 meter ham band frequencies, for my radio so that I can operate at legal output power.
Thanks a lot for the great feedback.
👍👍👍
It sounds like you have a fun project ahead. I hope that your design concept works out for you.
However, please be mindful that connecting switch-mode power supplies in parallel to drive that amount of power/load can be challenging. That said, if this is something you have already done successfully in the past, then disregard my comments.
My experience with these converters is that they perform relatively well in a paralleled topology - when the load is not too heavy and not instantaneously applied. If you can find a way to slowly raise the load on the combined system (load stepping), you will stand a better chance of succeeding. An instantaneous load of >1500W could cause the converters to lose output voltage regulation for a brief moment, and this could lead to a catastrophic failure for one or both of them - loop control issues.
My recommendation:
Try connecting some low-resistance but high power resistor at the output of each paralleled converter ......that is before the load. This is called the "Droop" approach. With this approach, you will need to account for the thermal dissipation on the Droop resistors.
Please check out the video below👇👇👇
th-cam.com/video/EKqIIOe_q8k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=OWPUym1jfP4LcirK
@@theinnovati0nlab782will this charge lifepo4 batteries?
I like your video man, respect ✊
Just a quick question, how forgiving is the input voltage maximum? Would a slightly higher open circuit voltage fry the electronics? My solar panels have a working voltage of 49V, but the open circuit voltage is 60v, until the cold weather gets here and it will exceed it by a few volts.
Your opinion would be appreciated
Thanks,
J
Thank you so much for such wonderful feedback!
Regarding the max input voltage, I honestly don't know if it is forgiving. It is difficult to do that test without destroying the converter. Actually, it is always recommended to stay below the max ratings by about 10 to 20V. In the future, I plan to make a video to show how to make a DIY custom converter.
Thanks again!
Please help us reach a wider audience by sharing our videos.
@theinnovati0nlab782 will this charge lifepo4 batteries? Why is everybody acting like lifepo4 batteries are completely different?
THANKS FOR THE GREAT REVIEW!!!!!!
NOW I am about to buy this converter, but have one question:
Is there a MINIMUM OUTPUT CURRENT requirement?? My load at times will go down in the mA range where I need the full output voltage.
THANKS AGAIN!!!
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback.
This is a good question, but there is no minimum output current requirement. I have used it to power only my digital power monitors (90mW) and the boost converter still maintained its output voltage regulation.
Hi, I've looked at all the reviews on youtube and yours is the clearest yet. Thanks!. I have a question; lets consider an input of say, 12v and tweak up the output to 24v. If you then double the input voltage to 24v ( by adding another 12v battery in series ) does that automatically double the output voltage to 48v? Or will the output remain at 24v. The reason I ask is that some of the ads on ebay/Aliexpress/Amazon describe it as constant current/constant voltage device.
Thanks a lot for watching this video and for the great feedback!
Regarding your question, the output should remain at 24V - maybe with a small increase (
If your input voltage is 24v instead of 12v you will essentially double your output power(watts). The limiting factor is the input amprage(I think it's 28amps) so let's say you want to power a 48v device or charge a 48v battery. If you have 12v input you would be charging @336w but if you are running 24v you can charge a 48v @ 672w. The downside? You are now unable to power anything under 24v because your output voltage can't ever be lower than your input voltage. My suggestion? Buy 2 of these units in parallel and now you can charge at a range of 12v-96v with a power output of 672w! Or you can run it at 24v and instead buy a DC step down converter as well so you can use it for 3v-24v as well as 24v-96v.
Thanks a lot for the feedback. I appreciate the interaction.
You are absolutely right about not being able to charge batteries with voltages below your input voltage to the converter - given that we are using a boost converter. But this depends on personal needs. If your battery charging needs are always higher than the input voltage you are using, then you may not have to worry. However, if you have a need to charge a lower voltage, I agree that using a buck converter will be ideal. My only concern is that buck converters are usually less efficient and generate lots of heat.
In the future, I plan to build a true wide input buck-boost converter that can span a wider range. This way, we can truly call the system a universal charger.
Hi!
Thanks for you Video! I have the same unit connected to a Wind Generator. I cant get more than 10W out of this. Set the undervolt protection to 20V (So its spinning and not charge intil 20V is reached). Output is Set to 55V for 48V Battery.
I dont Touch the screw for Ampere. Do i need to increase this or is it by stock not limited?
Thanks
Erik
Hello Erik,
Thanks a lot for watching our videos and leaving such a thoughtful comment.
Regarding your question, it seems to me that what you might need would be an MPPT charge controller to help you optimize your charging process. You can do some research to see which one will work best for your wind mill application.
Alternatively, the boost converter can operate down to 10V, so why are you setting the undervoltage lockout to 20V - unless you have a 20V battery?
Yes, you should definitely try adjusting the output current to see if it helps. I would recommend doing it when your wind generator is at maximum energy yield. You may be getting only 10W because your output current might be at a low setting. Given that this is a constant current boost converter, the current will remain the same regardless of how much energy your wind generator is producing.
Also make sure to check that your wind generator is actually producing greater that 10W of power.
Thanks again and don't forget to help us reach a larger audience by sharing our videos.
What is the minimum voltage difference between input & output? Description says 10/12 minimums (2v difference), but specs say 3volt difference? I want to put in 12.0v & output 14.2v, not sure if Ok? (Thanks for your video!)
Hello friend!
👍👍
Yes, you should be able to raise your 12V input to >14V without any issues. Just keep in mind that your system will be current- limited to 30A. So if your input voltage is 12V, you can only get less than 360W out of this converter.
Hi thanks for the test. Do you have a product link ? (AE or AMZ). I am planning to attack a 48V battery from a 12V one even if I can't exceet 360W, it's already not bad....
Thanks for watching!
This was the one I used for the video. I am not affiliated with this vendor and the video was not sponsored, so do some more research before buying.
1500W 30A DC-DC Boost Converter DIY Step-up Boost Constant Stream Power Supply Module Board in 10-60V Out 12-90V Electric Unit Module a.co/d/hTmj7Jr
Hi, I have a scenario where I need to 'boost' 12V to 58V, with as much power as possible. I considered using 2 boost converters, like these in parallel, each having a diode on the output to isolate them from each other. Now I am thinking maybe it would be better to have their outputs set to 29V each, and to SERIES connect the outputs. Lower difference between input-output voltage ( 12v-29v vs 12v-58v) should mean higher efficiency? What do you think?
I have made lots of videos regarding your comment.
Please take some time to watch them.
A few notes:
1. You can only connect these boost converters in series ONLY if your are using a separate input power or battery to drive them individually.
2. The parallel connection approach only works well at low power demands.
3. Using 12V for high power dc to dc applications is something I will highly discourage.
Please watch the videos below.
👇👇👇
Paralleled boost converter concept:
th-cam.com/video/EKqIIOe_q8k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pYiwpdiLNjnd5W6p
12 to 48V boost converter ebike drive:
th-cam.com/video/haGmAmpqNAw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8pozrAL3OipckYHV
5000W Boost Converter Concept:
th-cam.com/video/oPhLpekQ4q4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iKRUMD_YZiggf8m3
I hope this helps.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
@@theinnovati0nlab782 THANKS!
1st - checked. The whole concept is to move extra energy from 12V solar setup to 48V battery, so 12V battery is driving both boost converters.
2nd - yes, that is why I am considering paralleling the inputs and connecting outputs in series, to maybe reduce the conversion losses with 2 converters, instead of using single converter on same power.
3rd - agree, high currents are not the best way to transfer energy, but see point 2 :)
Hi, I’m looking to charge 8 batteries in series (96V DC) off of a car alternator, about 14V DC. Do you think I would get any oscillation if so I can I lower the wattage so that it’s just a trickle charge?
Hi friend,
I like your innovative mindset. 👍👍
However, this is not something I would personally recommend - given the perceived risk level involved. Doing this could potentially damage your vehicle's alternator and electronics if anything goes wrong.
Now that we have talked about the risk, I believe that your idea of charging multiple batteries in series using the boost converter is possible as I have shown this in many of my videos.
However, in your specific design, I see some issues;
1. If you are using lead-acid batteries, then you will need a total of 112V as your charging voltage. The recommended charing voltage for a 12V lead-acid battery is about 14V.
So, (8 × 14) = 112V
2. These boost converters are rated for a max output voltage of 90V, so you will not be able to get to 112V.
My Recommendations:
If you decide to do this, see if you can modify your design to allow you to charge 4 batteries at a time. This means a total charging voltage of 56V.
Or you can configure your setup, such that during the charge cycle, your batteries can be connected as 2 parallel, and now 4 in series.
Note:
Your idea of trickle charging is a good one. But it means that you will leave your car running for hours? Will it be whorth it?
Thanks again for sharing this wonderful thought.
Success wishes on your project!
😎👍🎊
This is a really good video, and I will like to buy this device to convert the power from my 24v wind turbine to 48v since I have changed my inverter to a 48v system, but I have a question.
Do I have to connect power sources to the input and output before I can adjust the voltages, and can it work even if I do not make any adjustments to the input and output voltages? Thank you in advance.
Hi friend,
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback.
You only need to connect a power source to the input of the converter (10 to 60Vdc) to adjust the output voltage.
Steps:
1. Connect your input voltage source.
2. Connect a power monitor or DMM to the output.
3. Adjust the output voltage potentiometer.....that's it.
Note:
This is a boost converter, and you can only adjust to a higher output voltage. For example, if your input is 24V, your output will never be lower than that.
To adjust the output current, you will need to connect a load to the output.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I thank you for your prompt reply, but I still need a little more clarification. I have a 12v power bank which I can connect as input to adjust the output voltage which I intend to put at 55v and I assume that when the wind turbine is connected the converter will accept the variable voltage from the turbine, but why do I really need to adjust the current?
Can the converter not vary the current as the input voltage vary?
My wind turbine is actually a very small 200w type and wind does not really blow too often in my location so I am wondering if I can just cope with the default current setting, except changing it can help my turbine to start charging with very low speed wind.
Hi friend,
The truth is that this boost converter is designed only for steady state input power. I would not expect it to perform well under a variable input power application such as a wind turbine or solar.
Please see the video we made to illustrate this below 👇👇
th-cam.com/video/4RfOrXcBvOY/w-d-xo.html
Also, I have never done any wind turbine projects, and I don't know much about it.
My suggestion given that this converter is only about
Thanks for this video...I just wonder what will happen with the current under load if you use 12v input and boost till 84v, Will the current stay 40A or collapse?
Thanks again for the wonderful interaction and feedback. 👍👍
These converters have an input current limit of about 30A, which means that you should really expect less than 360W at the output of the converter if you use an input voltage of 12V.
For driving something like an ebike that will impose high current surges on the converter, I won't recommend using a 12V input source unless we can show that paralleling the converters will work efficiently. As you know, the higher the input voltage, the better.
For the specific 12 to 84V case that you presented, let's do some math...😊
Assuming that the following conditions apply;
Input voltage: 12V
Max Input current limit: 30A
Converter Efficiency: 98%
Converter output voltage: 84V
Delivered output power = 0.98(I *V) = 0.98 * (30 * 12) = 353W
Delivered output current at an output voltage of 84V = 352/84 = 4.2A.
So, looking at the math above, one can confidently say that, yes, at an output load of 40A, the converter will basically crash or go into oscillations - depending on the nature of the load.
Also, keep in mind that the efficiency will definitely be worse at a 12V input. I would expect low 80 - 70% ranges. I just used the 98% as a theoretical best case.
Thanks again for such thoughtful interactions, I appreciate it.
Please let me know if you see any error in my math above.
👍😎
*I have watched this video twice now. You have some great information here and i really appreciate you sharing it . I have a question. How do we know what size boost converter do we need for our project. What determines if the converter is suitable. My input and output voltage falls within the range. What else is important to know if it works?*
Thanks again for the wonderful feedback.
This converter can be used for a wide range of DC to DC applications. It really depends design needs.
Here are some examples of what I would consider:
- Rated Outout power
- Rated output current
- input voltage ranges
- Desired output voltage range.
- output ripple
I typically don't worry too much about the output ripple if I am using the converter for battery charging. However, for amplifiers and more sensitive applications, ripple voltage levels need to be considered.
Please let me know what you will be using the converter for, just to help me provide a better feedback.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 *Here is the ideal i had after being frustrated with my Ryobi tool batteries. I want to make a backpack mounted power pack using Kobalt 24v batteries wired in series. I wanted to use the boost converter to power my battery powered tool no matter the brand . i will construct a adapter to fit the slot to power my tools. The main tool that it would be used for is a 40v Ryobi leaf blower. Because the voltage is adjustable i thought i could just change it to the required voltage of the tool. I found video of a similar example to give you an ideal :th-cam.com/video/KQ9UiD-OTbk/w-d-xo.html
I hope my ideal is clear. please let me know if you need anymore information. I appreciate any input.*
@dexterousx92
Thanks a lot for the clarity and for sharing the video.
For such a project, you need to know the power specifications of the Ryobi leaf blower. Then, with that known, you can now select a boost converter and battery system that can provide that much power.
In a nutshell, you need to know the following specs of the leaf blower;
- input voltage
- input power.
P = IV; can be used to calculate the drive current required - If that was not provided.
Unfortunately, most tools will only tell you the voltage rating. But this is ok. It only means that you need to design your battery pack to be able to deliver high currents.
As for boost converter recommendations, I believe that the 1500W converter used in this video should be able to provide all the power you will need.
Important note:
Make sure that you set the output current setting to the max point.
Safety:
Please lithium ion and lithium phosphate batteries have very high energy and power densities. While this makes them very useful and desirable, it also makes them dangerous. Please be very careful with your battery designs and charging process.
Success wishes on your project.
👍😎
@@theinnovati0nlab782 *Thank you for this very informative response. Ill let you know how things turn out.*
Thank you for the review I just wanna know that why is my 1800 dc tp dc fan not working is their a switch for it???
Thanks for the great feedback.
The fan is temperature controlled and should start up automatically.
I have not seen any switch for that.
You should return it if you just bought it.
On a second thought, the fan will only start up under a heavy load....which would obviously warm up the system enough for the temperature sensor to detect the heat and turn on the fan. If you are only using it for small loads, the fan may never turn on.
I hope the helps.
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
I was thinking of using one of these to power my laptop from my lifepo4 battery bank. This would be more efficient than using a 2000w AC inverter and big 200w power adapter.... but I'm not sure on the quality of the device, fail-safes like over voltage, output current ripple etc, is it worth using this for a $1500 laptop? I can't find a proper 200w laptop charger anywhere for 12v bank... any thoughts?
I wouldn't recommend that you do something like this without proper research, lots of testing, and analyzing the results.
I would discourage for now. Bit is you insist on doing it. Maybe you can try it with a cheaper laptop and see if it even makes much sense.
Hmmmm, now you git me thinking about this...😂😂
I think it would make for a good experiment for us... but no promises for - maybe in the future.
👍👍
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
@theinnovati0nlab782 Not sure where my previous comment went. Despite our better judgement I followed through with this and wired the converter to a dc barrel jack, then plugged in via a "dc to HP laptop charger adapter" which apparently has the required resistor inside to allow the laptop to detect a charge via the 3rd "smart" pin inside the charging port. It's charging properly at full speed without even kicking in the converter fans, and actually consumes 100w less than inverter + ac charger! Only weird thing is to initiate the charge the laptop has to be on lock screen, sleep, hibernation or off... not the biggest problem in the world, unsure if this is a Windows thing or HP adapter... but once it's charging it works well. Guess time will tell, if I fry my laptop I'll update this comment lol
@aciidphreeek
Amazing! I am glad your project idea worked. Thanks for the update. Keep me posted on the performance.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥
Great video. I want to charge 58 volt lithium from a truck alternator. Any idea what amp I should set this board?
Great question.
What is the amp hr rating of your lithium battery?
Is it a lithium phosphate or Lithium-Ion battery?
Welcome - Thank you for your useful and wonderful experiences. I have two of these 1800w I own a 72v electric bike I use a lithium-ion battery and one of these transformers to raise the voltage to 80 volts to help the batteries while traveling, and it works for me acceptably. I have no problem with the efficiency because I use a 12 volt battery. My question is: is there a way I can add the second booster in parallel? And set the voltage of each booster to 42 volts And connect it with 3 batteries, and the other also through a diode bridge to prevent current collision and breakdown of transformers, because as you know, the negative is connected directly from the output to the input. Thank you very much, my dear. My greetings to you.
Thanks a lot for the great feedback.👍👍👍
We have made a lot video projects with these converters. In general, SMPSs do not work well in parallel unless they are designed to work in synchronous control mode.
We have conducted the paralleled converter experiment and I found it to be very unreliable. However, we just found a way to raise the output power of these converters.
See the videos below.
💥 PARALLELED BOOST CONVERTER CONCEPT:
th-cam.com/video/EKqIIOe_q8k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZwgxstuFYxAtLe0z
💥 COVERTERS WITH BOOTED POWER OUTPUT:
th-cam.com/video/_cG3smKwTzE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uJPFZL8eDacqAvVE
I hope this helps.
- The Innovati0n Lab💥
Great video,I have been wondering if I could use a 60v 10amp hr battery to run a inverter for back up power in emergencies, inverter is 12 volt 1000 watt pure sine wave. Thanks again for your videos.
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback!
We do appreciate it.
However, this converter can only be used to raise input voltage to higher levels. Since you have a 60V battery and your inverter is 12V, it seems that what you will need will be a buck converter. Just keep in mind that you will lose a lot of power due to efficiency losses on the buck coverter.
Thanks again for the thoughtful question.
Success wishes on your projects.
👍
So with 12 v inputs the 1800W boost converter delivers 360W and 30A with 24v output, avs what with 84v output.? But what about 2 in parallel with 2 diodes on ithe output to share, could you do a test if the current will increase to 60A, and can you show what happens if you put the current potmeter to maximum, will that incerease the current further? I am curious
Thanks a lot for such constructive feedback. I greatly appreciate it when someone takes the time to watch our videos and provide amazing feedback. 👍😎👏
Your ideas are great, and everything you said is correct. I have considered making a video to show how you could connect two or more boost converters in parallel using diode output isolation or droop sharing, but I have not been able to do so yet. But I definitely will.
The only issue I see is that this topology will only work for a fixed output voltage system - if you are able to tune both converters just right.
- same output voltage level
- same output current limits....etc.
My experience is that the switch-mode power supplies naturally do not like being paralleled unless they are designed to work together with a synchronous control.
Again, I appreciate your feedback, and please stay tuned for when I make that video.
Thanks again!
👍👍
i must be seeing things...i see no test... but first,thanks for the video;
in the end you could throw away the converter and use just 2 wires
did i see well? you input 24 VDC into the converter,in order to get 24VDC out?
the paperwork says 1500watts *OR* 20 Amps,whichever comes first..
so, (90 Volts) OUT at (70 volts ,20 Amps) IN , for 1400 Watts that was the test i'd like to see, what do you think? thanks
Thanks for the feedback.
However, you have to realize that the pure sine wave inverter used in this video has an input voltage range of 21 to 30V. 24V is only the nominal input voltage. This happens to be the case for most power inverters and converters.
As I believe I explained in that video, I used the boost converter to raise the input voltage to the inverter from 24V to about 26V. I know that a 2V boost/differential is not that much, but all the same, the converter was processing the power and regulating the output.
So, to your comment, replacing the converter with 2 wires will not give you the same function. Unless the wires were somehow built with a self-regulating PWM function and a 30A current limiting function.
Please go check out the specs of the 1500W/1800W boost converter on Amazon. The vendor rated the converter with an input current limit of 30-40A, an input voltage range of 10-60V.
Math:
At the max input voltage of 60V and a current limit of 30A, the boost converters are supposed to deliver close to (30 * 60)W =1800W. However, you have to account for efficiency and cable losses. Disclaimer: I have not load tested any of these units above 1000W
The 20A current limit you based your calculation on should only be for the 1200W version of the boost converter.
My videos are not perfect, but they are usually based on good research and strong fundermentals. Also, I am not affiliated with the vendor, I am only providing some independent reviews.
Thanks again.
Hi, can we use this converter to charge 72v electric motorcycle battery with another swap-able 72V battery?
You said that this can step up around 3V from input voltage..
Hi friend,
Unfortunately, with these converters, you will not be able to accomplish that. This is primarily because 72V exceeds the maximum input voltage rating.
Input voltage range:
10V to 60V
Output voltage range:
12V to 90V
Current limit:
30A.
Correction:
I never mentioned that these coverter inputs can go as low as 3V - maybe you misheard what i was saying. Please see the input voltage range above.
Hey just wondering if I could use this in reverse or if it would work for my purposes. I would like to have my input voltage roughly 60 volts 120 watts be converted to an output of 12 volts 700 watts. Could this work for such a purpose, or is there another converter you would recommend?
Hi friend,
Unfortunately, this device only works as a boost converter - it can only increase the input voltage. It does not work in reverse.
It looks like you need a strong buck converter that can deliver high currents. I have not seen anything that comes close to what you need. The ones I have used in the past are buck converters rated for
nop you can also use this converter as a step down buck converter. to handle higher current you put 2 in parallel or 3 and ad on each output a high power and current diode or a 4 w 10 k resistance to keep the current share in all parallell converters
please can you do a load test with 2 boost converters 1800W in parallel. with 2 diodes in the output. I wonder what happens..
@hermantelbo6283
I am not sure if there is a typo in your first statement. But were you saying that a boost converter can be used as a step down (buck) converter? If so, please share how you are able to accomplish this.
My understanding is that there are essentially three types of non-isolated DC-DC converter topologies;
- Boost: Only boost the applied input voltage to a regulated output.
- Buck: Only steps down the applied input voltage to a regulated output level.
- Buck-boost: A hybrid design that performs both boost or buck.
The converter reviewed in this video is strictly a boost converter, and it can not perform a buck function.
Please clarify your comment so we don't confuse our audience.😊
I am also willing to learn something new - if I was wrong
Thanks again.
👍😎
I was wondering....if you set these boost converters for, say, a current limit of around 10 to 15 AMPS, would the converter be damaged if the output leads were shorted together for a minute or so, or would it just sit there with 10 amps harmlessly flowing between the output cables? What about for full current setting (not, of course, exceeding the wattage)??
The reason I am asking is that I have a very large super capacitor bank that I want to charge from 0v to ~48v. I know that the cap bank will be virtually a short at the start of the charge, especially if I have several banks in parallel...don't want to blow my new converter.
THANKS MUCH!!!
Hi friend,
I understands your concern given the ultra low ESR of supercaps at full discharge. However, what I know is that these converters have Overcurrent Protection - but I honestly have never attempted to short the output to see how the converter would respond.
A good idea will be to add a low resistance charge resistor to in series with the converter output - to help protect your coverter. If not, you may either damage the converter due to high current surges, or the converter will go into oscillations as the supercap bank is charging.
I hope this helps.
Success wishes.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
YOU ARE RIGHT (I learned the hard way!)...A SHORT ON THE OUTPUT WILL DESTROY THE CONVERTER INSTANTLY!!...even at low CC setting...every time!
You just can NOT use these converters like that!!. -After- this happened last night, I looked around on TH-cam and found an Hour-long video in them The guy had many of these, doing all sorts of tests, and had three of them that were destroyed just from shorting the outputs. One of his solutions was using a current-limited power SOURCE. I ordered another 1800 watt 40A converter from Aliexpress...found it for only about $12 (it's the same)!
--dalE @@theinnovati0nlab782
The magnetic core type is not ferrite. It is something else. The ferrite core will not be working in case of being the boost choke because it will saturate very easily.
Thanks a lot for watching this video and for the correction. I appreciate it.
It's probably sendust, which is similar to iron powder, but it's an alloy of iron, silicon and aluminium, which has very low core losses.
Will this unit also step down the voltage. I need to reduce solar voltage down from 66v to 59v.
No it won't. It only boosts the input voltage. You will need a "Buck converter" for that.
Super sir, this charger having auto cutoff after battery get full charged and reverse voltage protection ?
Thanks a lot for watching the video and for the engagement.
Regarding your question, this device is simply a DC to DC boost converter. It was not originally designed to be a battery charger. Hence, it doesn't monitor battery voltage levels as an included function. About the reverse voltage protection, I am not sure it has this function. But you can find more details from the vendors on Amazon or ebay.
My recommendation will be to take the time to verify your input connections before powering up the device.
Thanks again and don't forget to help us share our videos to help us reach more people.
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Great. I need one knowledge from you, try or do charging okinawa praise pro ev scooter of 72 volt
Thanks a lot for watching this video.
However, your question is not very clear. Are you asking if you can use this converter to charge a 72V battery?
Hello. Best video. I would like to know if it is possible to replace the two 12v batteries with a single 24v 340w solar panel to do the test that you did towards the end of the video from 13 minutes onwards. THANKS.
Absolutely.
Yes, you can do that.
The two 12V battery packs were used in series to make a 24V LiFePO4 battery pack anyway.
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The Innovati0n Lab 💥
@@theinnovati0nlab782All right. have you made any special adjustments to the buck converter (input and output current and input and output voltage) in relation to the 24v inverter ?
@user-nu8cb7tv3g
If you are going to use it to drive an inverter system, you just need to make sure that the output current potentiometer is set to the Max point.
Set your output voltage to fall within your inverter's input voltage range.
For output voltage, output current, and undervoltage protection adjustments, see the videos below;
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th-cam.com/video/WDWJ77WWkXc/w-d-xo.html
UVP setting:
th-cam.com/video/t8Aaz4iQeXY/w-d-xo.html
Excelent video
Thanks a lot!
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We appreciate the wonderful feedback.
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The Innovati0n Lab 💥
Hi friend, i use these stepup but have problem whit trimmer, not is easy regulation cc and input voltage. The output voltage is good easy,but how can have the max power output? I use trimmer but not see becouse but not is stable output at max power.
The CV trim potentiometer works when you have a load on the system.
With the input of the converter facing towards your left hand and the output facing towards your right hand, you can increase the output current by turning the potentiometer towards your right (clockwise turn).
When you get to the maximum point, you will hear faint audible clicks from the trim potentiometer.
Note:
If your CC trim potentiometer is all the way counterclockwise (lowest output current), your converter will lose output voltage regulation and will not boost the input voltage.
Output Voltage crashing when you apply load?
This could simply be because your set output current is too low. Adjust the CC potentiometer until you see both the output current and output voltage increase.
This is the reason why I always recommend using some power monitors - this way, you can see what is going on.
Watch the videos below for some better explanations;👇👇👇
th-cam.com/video/WDWJ77WWkXc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ry02ho_BydAFa8hh
th-cam.com/video/0Ct_sgbAjU4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2exdmFp1vxjSHS-z
I hope this helps.
I hope you are a subscriber.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥
Sir can i use this to drive ebike motor? My ebike use 4pcs of 12v12ah battery, i plan to use only one 12v but higher ah, use it as input to this boost converter to get 48v output to drive ebike controller as well as the ebike motor. Is it possible? What ah of battery i need to use?
Great question.
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Please watch the linked video below and let me know if you have more questions.
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th-cam.com/video/haGmAmpqNAw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CGNtYVLpp3lul81P
I hope this helps.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
Can i use this to charge secondary battery? From alternator to this then out to 2nd battery..
Hi friend,
Thanks for the very thoughtful question.👍
We get this question a lot.
I believe that under careful calculations and a good understanding of the power limits of your alternator, it should be possible.
However, please note that there is a Moderate to HIGH risk of damaging your vehicle's electrical system if the boost converter fails.
Personally, I would not encourage you to do it - too risky for me, given that a vehicle is involved. However, if you must do it, I would recommend adding input and output blocking diodes - going from your alternator to the boost converter (input) and from the boost converter (output) to the battery you are going to be charging.
Secondly, I would recommend using low charging currents or trickle charging - this way, you won't overload your alternator.
Lastly, try not to do the charging while your alternator is already under heavy loads like running the A/C, headlamps(at night),......etc.
Lastly, please note that my suggestions above are purely theoretical, as I have never tried this concept in the past.
But it should not be rocket science, though.😊
Success wishes to you, my friend!
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can this tool be used to increase the voltage output of a magnetic harvester generator? the output of the generator is 24v after that it is step-up to this device to 48volt and then it goes into a 48volt 2000watt/3000watt inverter, is that possible?? thanks a lot before 🙏
Thanks a lot for the very thoughtful question!
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Honestly, I am not very familiar with the output specifications of your magnetic harvester. However, as long as it is producing very clean dc power that falls within the input voltage range (10-60V) of this boost converter, I believe it should work, but you have to test it to make sure it will work. Also, you have to be sure that your magnetic harvester is actually capable of supplying enough output power to drive the load you are putting on it.
For example,
If your harvester is generating 24V, but the total power output is 200W, if you apply a load of 1500W, the entire system will basically crash....and it will not be because of the boost converter.
Also, as explained in my previous videos, these boost converters have a current limit of 30A. This basically means that if your input voltage is 24V, your expected power output should be less than (24 X 30) = 720W.....and it won't matter if your generator produces more than 30000W.
Thanks again for the interaction, my friend!
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Thanks a lot sir 🙏👍👍 good job !!
My battery full charged at around 62 to 63 volts, do you think this would still run around that input voltage?
I understand your situation. However, I will not recommend it.
As a matter of fact, I have learned to take the manufacturer specs of these converters with a grain of salt.
Personally, I apply some extra input voltage derating when I use these converters. This means a -10V reduction from the rated input voltage. I prefer to keep my input voltages between 48 and 50V Max.
SAFETY:🔥
If you do decide to drive the converters with >60V, I would recommend wearing PPE. I have seen lots of these converters fail....not very pleasant.
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I hope this helps.
The Innovati0n Lab.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 then can you suggest a boost converter that can handle more than 60 volts input? Coz i cant find it anywhere. My purpose of using a boost converter is to just maintain a 55-60 volts to run my 60 volts 1,500w inverter or could you suggest a different solution to my needs. My inverter operates at 53-70 volts but my battery low voltage cutoff is 48 volts so i need to extend the operation of my inverter up to that volts and not just 53v.
@dhr6978
I have heard you, and I have taken a mental note. It is heard to find an off the shelf converter that would meet all the specs you are looking for without breaking the bank.
No promises, but I will keep this in mind for future projects and videos. All my videos are directed towards solving these types of problems for my audience.
However, we will need your help to grow our TH-cam audience - if you don't mind. These videos are not worth the effort if the right people are not viewing them. You can help by sharing our videos on Facebook, Instagram, with friends and your diy community.
Thanks again.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thank you so much for replying and giving advices really appreciate that, yes i would try to help your channel in exchange thank you
What happens if the input voltage exceeds to output voltage?
Great question.👍👍
That should never happen in a boost converter. The worst you should get when the converter fails is that the input and output voltages should equalize.
But then I have not seen all the failure conditions.
Overall, if you ever see anything like that on a boost converter, then there is a failure.
Unless what you have is a buck-boost converter that is designed to either boost or lower the input voltage to a lower level.
I hope this helps.
The Innovati0n Lab💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
can i connect Northstar 12v 170ah battery as input to this circuit to get 48v to run ebike motor
Thanks for watching this video.
Answer to your question:
Yes you can, but as long as your motor draws less than 320W of power.
As I explained in my videos, you can only get total power of 320W if you use an input voltage of 12V to drive the boost converter.
Please don't forget to share our videos if you found them helpful - this way others can benefit from them as well.
My converter got short circuited for a few seconds and now the vcc and ground inputs are shorted. what could be the problem here please help me
Hi friend,
If you think that this was a defective converter out of the box, then the first thing I would suggest will be for you to reach out to the seller to see if you can request a replacement.
However, if that is not an option, and you are good with soldering and repairs, then you can try replacing the drive MOSFET (Usually, HY3912), but please double-check.
You can watch the video below to see how I disassembled the converter when I made some modifications to it.
th-cam.com/video/iQnXLZqpSpo/w-d-xo.html
I wish you success in resolving the issue.
Let us know about the outcome.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 ok i will see if i can find someone to repair it for me otherwise ill do it myself. I wont be able to return it since even though the converter is really fragile for some reason was it was my bad to short it.
I'm going to have to pock one of these up
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what is the max input current (amps) again please?
The specs of these converters are not very well written. I would plan for 30A max... just to be on the safe side.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thanks for answering that. I was asking because I wanted to hook 4 solar panels 460w (40v) with rating of 9amps to this unit, before the wires go in to the mppt solar charger of an inverter. The mppt volt range is 30v to 80v and that's why the solar panels are working 60% of their power because when they up the amps, they reduce the volts and they drop from 40v to 30v very easily creating a bottleneck.
Cool vid !=8)
Thanks a lot for the feedback.
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How are you sir, I bought 1800w 40a dc-dc booster from Daraz 15 days ago, when I give dc 36volt on input. Set the output to 60vdc, when the load is applied, the output voltage becomes 40dcv around 60vdc. The input amp is 25 and the output is 21amp, no more times the Amp input. Please help me, i wait your valuable feedback Sir,
Thanks a lot for watching our videos and leaving such a thoughtful comment. We started this channel to help and encourage creative minds like yourself!!
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Regarding your question, I believe you saw the voltage drop from 60V to 40V because your output load was probably greater than your available input power. As I explained in my video, with an input current of 25 Amps and input voltage of 36V, the total input power available to your load will be less than 900 watts (36
X 25). This is because you have to also account for efficiency losses.
With your output set to 60V and an output current limit of 20Amps, you were basically loading your output with 1200 Watts - this was why your output voltage dropped to 40V - due to an overload. This is because 40V X 20Amps = 800 Watts ......plus efficiency losses.
Summary:
You probably overloaded your output. So you can try doing the following;
1. Increase your input voltage to about 60V.
OR,
2. Reduce your output load below 800 Watts.
I hope this helps.
I wish you success with your project!!
Please don't forget to help our channel by sharing our videos.
Me fa lo stesso 72 volt scende a45 volt batteria e di 48 volt 20amper mia e-bike e voglio aumentare la corrente uscita trimmerino 72 volt 20a uguale 1400watt mio display e si 1050 watt ???? Devo aumentare corrente vero
C am I use this as a step down Dc 52.5v to Dc 48v
Hi friend,
The quick answer is no, you can't use it as a step-down converter. What you will need will be a buck converter.
Hello, if we give 5 volts, can we get 12 volts?
Thanks a lot for watching our video, friend!
The minimum input voltage for the converter will be 10V. So, a 5V input will not work.
Great info, thanks.
-> Please turn off the "music"!
Thanks a lot for the great feedback!
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I appreciate it.
Can this booster controller be connected to solar panels and then to Mppt charger 👍👍
Hi friend,
Please check out these videos and see if you think you can make it work.
th-cam.com/video/6J20RW8_pRM/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/4RfOrXcBvOY/w-d-xo.html
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Hello i ned please serigraphy of ICs U1, U2, U3. Thanks sorry for My English
Hi friend, thanks a lot for watching our videos. However, I only did an honest and unsponsored review of this product. I am not the vendor or the designer of the product.
I only bought the one I used for this video from Amazon.
You can find similar products by searching for "1800W DC-DC Boost converter" and you will find multiple vendors selling it. You can also find it on eBay. You can attempt to contact the vendors to see if they can help you with the information you need.
I hope this helps.
This test is without a heavy load...What is the current under extreme load? For electrical bikes you need a lot of torques. I doubt if this boost controller can handle that. why didn't you use 2 or 3 boost converters parallel and use diodes in the output or 5W 10K resistors to share the current in all boost converters in parallel ? Than it might work if your battery can handle the current. Then why you don't use a 72v hub motor put the current potmeter on maximum and increases the voltage to 84V that decrease current.
you just need to have an extra cooler on your motor and an more heavy controller maybe?
Thanks again for all the wonderful ideas and suggestions.
I have a test video coming out in a few days that shows the boost converter being tested with my ebike load simulator - under heavier loads.
Nice ! Sir I belong to Pakistan how can I purchace it ? Plz Guide me Thankful !
Hi friend.
Thanks a lot for watching this video. Also, we appreciate the interaction👍.
However, I honestly buy these converters from EBay or Amazon. But if you don't have access to these websites in your location, you can do a google search for "1800W constant current DC-DC boost converter" maybe you can find a local online dealer that you can get one from.
Also, in the future, I intend to make a simple DIY boost converter tutorial - this way, you can just build it yourself with local components.
Stay subscribed, my friend.
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I have the 1,800W 40A
Awesome!
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This is really a nice design and they are very affordable as well.
I have a few of them myself. But these are boost converters and can only step up dc voltages.
I'm a little bit surprised by the parallel connection of the input fuses. This is not good engineering practice. In Germany it is also an absolut engineering no go.
Fuses are designed to blow up at a certain amount of power which develops at a certain current. This amount of power can be very different for different or even the same fuses designed for a certain current.
It means the inner resistance of a fuse can differ a lot. And therefore the current will be distributed not equally between the fuses. Furthermore if one fuse blows up there are still fuses left to the circuit behind and further harm can occure.
Wow!
Thanks a lot for such wonderful feedback!!
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Honestly, it is as if you read my mind on this. I recently had another converter failure with the drive MOSFET getting damaged due to an overload - all my fault, though. But it got me thinking about the fuse design and selection because I have had this happen multiple times....MOSFET gets damaged while the fuses remain intact. I know that fuses are designed to have a much slower response time than MOSFETs....but regardless with better design and fuse selection, some of these failures could be mitigated.
You are absolutely right. Fuses have a manufacturer specified melting point , which is a factor of the square of the conducted current and the time duration. Melting points could vary slightly even for fuses with the same current rating.
A given fuse (fast/slow blow) could have a rating of 20A, but it could really withstand up to a 100A in milliseconds....the blow time is even longer for slo-blo fuses.
Again, to your point, connecting fuses in parallel could linearly or even exponentially increase the resultant I2T meeting point of the network or fuses....wow!
I have done lots of work and research on fuses in the past, but for some reason, this never really caught my attention.
Again, thanks a lot for this wonderful feedback. I hope that you are a subscriber to our channel.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
Cooling fans do make a huge difference with heat sinks. Good tests.
You are absolutely 100% correct. I have heard lots of people saying that these converters are failing, and this is simply because they are not cooling them well enough.
Again, I agree with you.
A fan is to power electronics, what water is to us humans.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I was using a thermal camera to look at how hot something was one time, and I simply blew on it, and could see it cool down a bit, and then warm back up again right after I stopped. People do like to max out devices and then wonder why they fail lol. I have started stating that I try to stay below half the max values most of the time, just like everyone knows to do for resistors
how much this is
I believe you can find this product on eBay or Amazon for less than $30 now. You have to check. Price may very a little depending on the vendor or the model. The 1200W version should be about $17.
Thanks for watching this video and please help our channel grow by sharing our videos.
The fan is not automatic i purchased 2 pieces now I am using fan direct
The fan on the ones I have usually turn ON automatically when the system warms up to a certain temperature - as you apply a heavy load ofcourse. What is the maximum load you have applied to your converters?
Both of converter i checked but automatic not working thanks
Kitne me hai sir
Hi friend,
The price now should be between $25 to $30 or so.
Please check online at eBay, Amazon, and other websites.
US $7.08 From Aliexpress
You are probably right, but I stopped by things from that website, ever since they lost an expensive order and were unwilling to help me find it.
Thanks though.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥