Could you please share the images of the ends of the axis where screw connects to bearings? Should I use a lathe to prepare the endings of the screw to fit the bearing hole? Also I am wondering if standart step motors will work fine with this diameter any thoughts?
That is really a great question and I think you are engineer or your brain have it, Yes you have two ways and both you need the lathe machine, First if you order the lead screw ask the seller to give you extra 30mm example if your lead screw 1000mm ask for 1030mm in this case you don't need adapters, But if you order 1000mm or 1500mm you have to make adapters, About the stepper motor it's optional what do you need for your CNC if you are willing to put 2.2KW or 1.5KW spindle, if 2.2KW advisable to change the spindle.,,,,,, For me I like the first choice to add 30mm to the lead screw it will save the time but I made a mistake and I order 1500mm not 1530 so I do the adapters. ( download847.mediafire.com/gk0ts3tpo5ug/2g83pppggey6dhb/20191213_135819.jpg )
Great idea... A re you happy with the 12mm lead screw upgrade ? What did you do at the motor end and other end to allow for the upgrade from 8mm to 12mm ? ie bearings plate holes, etc...
Yes stephan I'm satisfied with the upgrade , regard your question could you please check my reply to ( Edmundas Kasciukaitis ) in the comments. link to the end screws image.( www.mediafire.com/file/2g83pppggey6dhb/20191213_135819.jpg/file ) And ( www.mediafire.com/file/td6idz8jm7svuan/20191213_135845.jpg/file ) I hope that was helpful for you.
@@yacoubjabal3762 Thank you very much for the rapid response. Much appreciated. From what I can see in the photos and your comments, you made an adapter which I assume goes from 12mm to 8mm and then you just have an 8mm shaft from there that uses the original bearings and lock nut under compression like on the Workbee V1 ? or did you use a tension system like the Workbee V2 on the outside or Tingle tension system with a thrust bearing on the outside ? You say you recommend using a 1030 12mm lead screw. I guess that means that you turn down the two ends of the 12mm lead screw to 8mm and then again use the original 8mm fittings on the workbee to complete the task (leaving about 5mm sticking out each end). Now that you have the experience of that upgrade what do you think of the option of not stepping down to 8mm but to use 12mm all the way through end to end. ie enlarge the hole in the end plates to accomodate the 12mm and fit a 12mm bearing and collar. I am guessing that you had a good reason for going with the step down route from 12mm to 8mm. Out of interest, what feed speeds have you now managed to get up to with your conversion. Good job on doing that 12mm conversion as it seems far more logical to me than trying to find ways of tensioning the 8mm lead screw which is really just inadequate for a 1000/1500 workbee . You seem to be the only one so far that I am aware of that has done that so far, yet, it seems the correct thing to do.
@@TheMysticABC You are absolutely right plus I have to change the feed speed and rate of course special my lead screw is lead 10 you can make it lead 8 as will and that can lead you to the original setting as well. You know there is housing for the bearings I rather to do not be touched you have limited space for the X or Y C-beam aluminum extrusion, in any way you have to use the lathe machine for the ends. That what I was thinking so you have ideas for the ends and if I wanted to do it again I prefer 3cm extra than using the adapters. by the way I don't know about V1 or V2 I just deal with what I got :) Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Sir, that is what i am looking for but i can't handle the Y plate (front and back on each side) . Would you please share the file that i could drill the hole to hang the new Lead Crew? Thank you so much. Great video!!!
I do apologize for any inconvenience my video is not complete !! About the Y axis I extended the hole only, I hope this photo will help you.( photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNqT8am0VH-sCudIGTSg4mjcFLeRXxO3gdh1QbVRE0n7XKJtkUhgDtTwSC38V__uw/photo/AF1QipMNY4pJeDAHyLaq3Bi4620PviO9V2XPRQNTiyrw?key=VkJ4N0NDNjM0TUE2d0dZZmtQZ2RzdlRUVnpXWlhB )=======( photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNqT8am0VH-sCudIGTSg4mjcFLeRXxO3gdh1QbVRE0n7XKJtkUhgDtTwSC38V__uw/photo/AF1QipPHMAVCPxJOx0TOPSNZsxfMGgk8VQRLA1iWLBXc?key=VkJ4N0NDNjM0TUE2d0dZZmtQZ2RzdlRUVnpXWlhB )=======And about the Z axis I recommend lead screw 10 mm diameter lead 8mm.
okay I add for you the links under the video, better if you ask the seller for lead screw 1530mm if your CNC 1500 mm if it's less ask for 30mm extra like if you have 1000 mm CNC ask for 1030 mm three centimeter extra.
Just so you know. The plastic is not just any plastic. Its Delrin, which is a quality engineering plastic. that has great stiffness, strength with more lubricity than brass. Much like PTFE\Teflon. Dont get me wrong. Brass is great. But the Delrin is not cheap or something they cheaped out on. Its well regarded and desired by those building their own CNC machines to reduce weight while maintaining high build quality and longevity.
Allow me to show you this example ( th-cam.com/video/VOqi_yrpmfI/w-d-xo.html ) And I will agree with you if it's made from the same lead screw material, Acme nut block plastic spouse not a priority in good CNC, But the brass in between this and that.
@@pavasama yes it's belt driven maybe it's not good example more likely some parts of workbee cnc not reliable if you take a tour on the internet about workbee troubleshooting CNC you will know more about the acme block nuts problems also need to be replaced from time to time, The good news so far I'm not complaining about the upgrading not yet.
Could you please share the images of the ends of the axis where screw connects to bearings? Should I use a lathe to prepare the endings of the screw to fit the bearing hole? Also I am wondering if standart step motors will work fine with this diameter any thoughts?
That is really a great question and I think you are engineer or your brain have it, Yes you have two ways and both you need the lathe machine, First if you order the lead screw ask the seller to give you extra 30mm example if your lead screw 1000mm ask for 1030mm in this case you don't need adapters, But if you order 1000mm or 1500mm you have to make adapters, About the stepper motor it's optional what do you need for your CNC if you are willing to put 2.2KW or 1.5KW spindle, if 2.2KW advisable to change the spindle.,,,,,, For me I like the first choice to add 30mm to the lead screw it will save the time but I made a mistake and I order 1500mm not 1530 so I do the adapters. ( download847.mediafire.com/gk0ts3tpo5ug/2g83pppggey6dhb/20191213_135819.jpg )
and that one ( download2262.mediafire.com/snpk5ln9q7og/td6idz8jm7svuan/20191213_135845.jpg )
if 2.2KW advisable to change the stepper motor
@@yacoubjabal3762 Thank you for your fast and an amazing answers. Have you manufactured adapters by yourself?
@@edma3231 Me and my friend because my lathe is small and take time it was long story funny one :)
so does this fix the whipping issues?
Not yet !!! I'm thinking to whip the X axis more with the V guide rollers :)
Great idea... A
re you happy with the 12mm lead screw upgrade ? What did you do at the motor end and other end to allow for the upgrade from 8mm to 12mm ? ie bearings plate holes, etc...
Yes stephan I'm satisfied with the upgrade , regard your question could you please check my reply to ( Edmundas Kasciukaitis ) in the comments.
link to the end screws image.( www.mediafire.com/file/2g83pppggey6dhb/20191213_135819.jpg/file ) And ( www.mediafire.com/file/td6idz8jm7svuan/20191213_135845.jpg/file ) I hope that was helpful for you.
@@yacoubjabal3762 Thank you very much for the rapid response. Much appreciated. From what I can see in the photos and your comments, you made an adapter which I assume goes from 12mm to 8mm and then you just have an 8mm shaft from there that uses the original bearings and lock nut under compression like on the Workbee V1 ? or did you use a tension system like the Workbee V2 on the outside or Tingle tension system with a thrust bearing on the outside ? You say you recommend using a 1030 12mm lead screw. I guess that means that you turn down the two ends of the 12mm lead screw to 8mm and then again use the original 8mm fittings on the workbee to complete the task (leaving about 5mm sticking out each end). Now that you have the experience of that upgrade what do you think of the option of not stepping down to 8mm but to use 12mm all the way through end to end. ie enlarge the hole in the end plates to accomodate the 12mm and fit a 12mm bearing and collar. I am guessing that you had a good reason for going with the step down route from 12mm to 8mm. Out of interest, what feed speeds have you now managed to get up to with your conversion. Good job on doing that 12mm conversion as it seems far more logical to me than trying to find ways of tensioning the 8mm lead screw which is really just inadequate for a 1000/1500 workbee . You seem to be the only one so far that I am aware of that has done that so far, yet, it seems the correct thing to do.
@@TheMysticABC You are absolutely right plus I have to change the feed speed and rate of course special my lead screw is lead 10 you can make it lead 8 as will and that can lead you to the original setting as well.
You know there is housing for the bearings I rather to do not be touched you have limited space for the X or Y C-beam aluminum extrusion, in any way you have to use the lathe machine for the ends. That what I was thinking so you have ideas for the ends and if I wanted to do it again I prefer 3cm extra than using the adapters. by the way I don't know about V1 or V2 I just deal with what I got :) Thanks for sharing your ideas.
ASME = American Society of Mechanical Engineers
Sir, that is what i am looking for but i can't handle the Y plate (front and back on each side) . Would you please share the file that i could drill the hole to hang the new Lead Crew? Thank you so much. Great video!!!
I do apologize for any inconvenience my video is not complete !! About the Y axis I extended the hole only, I hope this photo will help you.( photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNqT8am0VH-sCudIGTSg4mjcFLeRXxO3gdh1QbVRE0n7XKJtkUhgDtTwSC38V__uw/photo/AF1QipMNY4pJeDAHyLaq3Bi4620PviO9V2XPRQNTiyrw?key=VkJ4N0NDNjM0TUE2d0dZZmtQZ2RzdlRUVnpXWlhB )=======( photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNqT8am0VH-sCudIGTSg4mjcFLeRXxO3gdh1QbVRE0n7XKJtkUhgDtTwSC38V__uw/photo/AF1QipPHMAVCPxJOx0TOPSNZsxfMGgk8VQRLA1iWLBXc?key=VkJ4N0NDNjM0TUE2d0dZZmtQZ2RzdlRUVnpXWlhB )=======And about the Z axis I recommend lead screw 10 mm diameter lead 8mm.
try to check this photo.imge.to/i/vE0RNi
imge.to/i/vE0rKTI remember I extend horizontally 3mm only for the Y axis.
imge.to/i/vE0RNiimge.to/i/vE0rKT
( imge.to/i/vE0RNi ) & ( imge.to/i/vE0rKT )
This is the last try ( pasteboard.co/IAws1JM.jpg ) & ( pasteboard.co/IAwwopY.jpg )
Awesome work!
Where did you get the parts?
okay I add for you the links under the video, better if you ask the seller for lead screw 1530mm if your CNC 1500 mm if it's less ask for 30mm extra like if you have 1000 mm CNC ask for 1030 mm three centimeter extra.
I told bulkman 3d he need redesign screw to 12mm or 16mm...i told him 8mm way too small
Just so you know. The plastic is not just any plastic. Its Delrin, which is a quality engineering plastic. that has great stiffness, strength with more lubricity than brass. Much like PTFE\Teflon. Dont get me wrong. Brass is great. But the Delrin is not cheap or something they cheaped out on. Its well regarded and desired by those building their own CNC machines to reduce weight while maintaining high build quality and longevity.
Allow me to show you this example ( th-cam.com/video/VOqi_yrpmfI/w-d-xo.html ) And I will agree with you if it's made from the same lead screw material, Acme nut block plastic spouse not a priority in good CNC, But the brass in between this and that.
@@yacoubjabal3762 The machine example you have provided is belt driven
@@pavasama There is two types of WorkBee CNC one with lead screws the other one is belt driven and the one I have is driven by lead screws.
@@yacoubjabal3762 i am talking about the link you have mentioned ( th-cam.com/video/VOqi_yrpmfI/w-d-xo.html )
@@pavasama yes it's belt driven maybe it's not good example more likely some parts of workbee cnc not reliable if you take a tour on the internet about workbee troubleshooting CNC you will know more about the acme block nuts problems also need to be replaced from time to time, The good news so far I'm not complaining about the upgrading not yet.
Anti-backlash Nut
ACME stands for American Companies Manufacture Everything
hehehe Well somebody send me that ( th-cam.com/video/1EevEHh58B0/w-d-xo.html ) So funny name