@@RyanLutz thanks Ryan! This will be my second kyosho build, and after building mugen and Mayako, I can say kyosho it’s the best so far ! But tips and tricks from a pro like you make things easy and smooth 😁
I'm building my MP10Te and watching you build your kits has been a huge help! I do not race but want my stuff to perform at its best. Building my Diff's is next so thought I would check the old TH-cam. I just subscribed.
I’m loving this! Just bought a tki3 for Christmas, hopefully we get the whole build before then. Love your work Ryan and it doesn’t go unnoticed. Kyosho is king 👑
Awesome. Hope you enjoy the new buggy. Be sure in the TKI3 center diff with the 12/18 gears to use a heavier oil. If you would do 7-5-3 in a standard setup do 7-10-3 with the 12/18s in center.
Thanks Ryan. Really like the videos you do, and the info you share. Kyosho is very lucky to have you as a representative/driver. Best wishes for a great 2024 race season. p.s. I found that when building several MP10TKI2 e-buggy kits, that the diffs were a super tight fit (even to get a single 0.15mm shim in), and the gear mesh was also very tight no matter how i troed to shim. The gears broke in after a few packs, and were smooth after that. Interestingly, when I built several TKI3 nitro buggy kits, the diffs were not nearly as tight, and the gear mesh wasn't so tight and actually required a 0.15mm shim to get to a suitable mesh. I am guessing that there may be some slight variation between product runs. Anyway, the final outcome is that the gear mesh will break in pretty quickly if they feel a little tight and notchy, so I wouldn't worry about it (I actually prefer a slightly tighter diff gear mesh to avoid gear skipping, especially in truggy).
Great video, learned not to press the pinion & driveline together when tightening the set screw, been doing that for years oops. Just built my diffs and will re do it, also had a very hard time getting the gear mesh, weird they need to break in, never experienced that before in a kit. One thing I do is add a little bit of fluid before dropping the first planetary gear into the cup to help fill up the weight saving indents on the backside of it, and then add fluid to the top one to fill those in.
Glad you were able to get some info. That is a smart idea on the initial fluid too. Though I do think having a little air is ok because otherwise if you fill it absolutely full you have possibility of over pressurizing it and leaking. I am building another Ebuggy TKI2 kit right now and one gold shim on the cup side and the diff is smooth. I'm really not sure why some of these are tight as it's not been a normal occurrence for me either (except when I do a video of course).
I haven’t got to them yet. These are the more critical ones so I got them posted first. I’m off to back to back races so it will be a few weeks before I’m able to get more up.
@@wesleydean1358you can look at my blog at LutzRC.com I have setup sheets at the bottom of each post. My DNC setup from ‘22 would probably be best bet.
Ryan. The Instructions are kind of vague. Are you only supposed to use one shim per side of the gear box? Even for the Nitro setup? I was trying to follow along! 😊
Is there an instance where you don’t use shims on the diff? My readyset didn’t have shims in the front or the rear. Everything runs smooth and doesn’t seem too loose.
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I hope you stay with Kyosho and I wish you all the success in 2024! Kyosho is King imho
My mp10 tki3 is about to be delivered and you just started uploading building videos, right on time !!
Hope they help. I’ll try to get to more but time is getting crunched. Hopefully these two so far will be a good start for you. Enjoy the build!
@@RyanLutz thanks Ryan! This will be my second kyosho build, and after building mugen and Mayako, I can say kyosho it’s the best so far ! But tips and tricks from a pro like you make things easy and smooth 😁
I’d sand the diff cup gasket surface a little and add a second gasket to that tight diff to free it up.
Yes that could absolutely help. Thanks for writing the suggestion. 👍🏼
I'm building my MP10Te and watching you build your kits has been a huge help! I do not race but want my stuff to perform at its best. Building my Diff's is next so thought I would check the old TH-cam. I just subscribed.
Keep those video's coming. Love learning more from each video...
Thanks, will do!
I’m loving this! Just bought a tki3 for Christmas, hopefully we get the whole build before then. Love your work Ryan and it doesn’t go unnoticed. Kyosho is king 👑
Awesome. Hope you enjoy the new buggy. Be sure in the TKI3 center diff with the 12/18 gears to use a heavier oil. If you would do 7-5-3 in a standard setup do 7-10-3 with the 12/18s in center.
Truly great, in depth video. Learned a lot, thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for commenting!
A good video and a very good help with your tips. Thanks a lot
Thank you for the comment and glad you enjoyed!
Nice job kyosho are very lucky to have you I wouldn’t own one if not for you and I love it
Thanks as always Bill! Glad you are enjoying yours!
Another great video and great tips as well 👍 thanks Ryan 😁
My pleasure! Thank you for the comment!
clair et précis, un très bon tutorial 👍
Thank you for the comment!
Thanks Ryan. Really like the videos you do, and the info you share. Kyosho is very lucky to have you as a representative/driver. Best wishes for a great 2024 race season.
p.s. I found that when building several MP10TKI2 e-buggy kits, that the diffs were a super tight fit (even to get a single 0.15mm shim in), and the gear mesh was also very tight no matter how i troed to shim. The gears broke in after a few packs, and were smooth after that. Interestingly, when I built several TKI3 nitro buggy kits, the diffs were not nearly as tight, and the gear mesh wasn't so tight and actually required a 0.15mm shim to get to a suitable mesh.
I am guessing that there may be some slight variation between product runs. Anyway, the final outcome is that the gear mesh will break in pretty quickly if they feel a little tight and notchy, so I wouldn't worry about it (I actually prefer a slightly tighter diff gear mesh to avoid gear skipping, especially in truggy).
Agreed. It’s surprising though with the same parts. But must have been a production variance with what went in many of the ebuggy kits.
Great video, learned not to press the pinion & driveline together when tightening the set screw, been doing that for years oops. Just built my diffs and will re do it, also had a very hard time getting the gear mesh, weird they need to break in, never experienced that before in a kit. One thing I do is add a little bit of fluid before dropping the first planetary gear into the cup to help fill up the weight saving indents on the backside of it, and then add fluid to the top one to fill those in.
Glad you were able to get some info. That is a smart idea on the initial fluid too. Though I do think having a little air is ok because otherwise if you fill it absolutely full you have possibility of over pressurizing it and leaking.
I am building another Ebuggy TKI2 kit right now and one gold shim on the cup side and the diff is smooth. I'm really not sure why some of these are tight as it's not been a normal occurrence for me either (except when I do a video of course).
I see there is Bag 1, 5 and 7, can you point me in the direction of the other bags...Thanks great videos Ryan
I haven’t got to them yet. These are the more critical ones so I got them posted first. I’m off to back to back races so it will be a few weeks before I’m able to get more up.
@@RyanLutz Okay sounds good Good Luck at the races... And thank you for the great content, Building my MP10e TKI2 today...
Do you have a setup sheet for the MP10E TKi2 for The Dirt in Perris ?
@@wesleydean1358you can look at my blog at LutzRC.com
I have setup sheets at the bottom of each post. My DNC setup from ‘22 would probably be best bet.
So when you put the last big spider gear in the oil should be level with the diff cup?
Ryan. The Instructions are kind of vague. Are you only supposed to use one shim per side of the gear box? Even for the Nitro setup? I was trying to follow along! 😊
Is there an instance where you don’t use shims on the diff? My readyset didn’t have shims in the front or the rear. Everything runs smooth and doesn’t seem too loose.
Sometimes I don’t use them. They probably won’t last as long but should be fine until things start to wear out a bit.
Did the diff oil come with the Kit?
No it does not. Because it varies so greatly between people and track conditions.
Thanks Ryan@@RyanLutz
Good video 👍‼️💯🔥🛢️🏁🏎️🤓🇨🇵
Thanks for commenting!
"Kyosho has the best tolerances" !!! hahahaha !! good one ! Have you ever worked on a XRAY kit ? #crunchydiffs
the diff left and right reversed,so too tight
That diff sounds horrible, I would never run gears making that much noise