My leg still hurts lol. Please SUBSCRIBE and LIKE the video if you enjoyed! It really helps me out a lot! Check out my Instagram: 2_vintage_ Thank you for all the support!
A trick to starting that is to kick it to top dead center, once you have it at top dead center pull the compression release and and kick it past the first little bit of resistance then stop and let go of the compression release and give it a good kick and she will start.
Back in '81, I extensively rode a brand new XT500 that had the Black enamel/polished aluminium tank just like yours. It was so Beautiful, Powerful and Smooth back then (compared to my clapped out Honda SL125) that it was a REVELATION!!! I was 14 and the XT was just a HEAVENLY Riding Experience that I have never forgotten! Watch out for the TT500, I had a '79 recently, SIX VOLT electrics suck, I think the XT's have 12 volt! Later, I enjoyed my '86 XT600 for Twelve Years, me and that 'Bike did everything together, from top to bottom of NZ, EVERYBODY wanted a ride on the back! A couple of Thousand WHEEL STANDS later, it broke my heart to trade her in for the next love of my life, my '91 Harley. So good to see you have the patience and the skills to get this Beautiful, now old, Girl back on the Road Mate, Goodonya!
Back in '79 I had the road-going version, the SR-500. That one had electronic ignition and produced its ignition-current from a coil or so behind the flywheel. I could start it without the battery. Greetings from the Netherlands.🙂
...and more importantly remove the sump plate and clean the wire screen in the top of the sump plate, this is where you will find any broken pieces and shavings from inside the engine
Looks like the 81 or 82 model. SR500 type CDI ignition. Front downtube has secondary oil reserve, small drain hole at the front, and a mesh filter at the bottom of it where the pickup tube is at for the oil pump. Good units, really. Kickstarter was massively out of position, usually the foot lever is level up by the exhaust pipe in the up position. Not a bad bike, and it wasn't wet sumping. Looks like you got a good one. There's also an oil strainer under the bottom of the engine, under the plate with the drain bolt. Exhaust valve clearance .15mm (cold) and intake .10 cold. 220 main jet on the thing, 22.5mm float height. Sounds like it's got some pilot jet clogging going on at 31:45. That's just by the main jet up in the hole on the main jet pillar. Also highly recommended to check the diapgragms on that carburetor. Air cut valve (on side), accellerator pump and accellerator pump cut valve all can get holed.
This was my dream bike growing up as a kid. I'd love to find one of these at a reasonable price and do a full restore. Nice find. Good luck with the build!
Really cool video,the hole time you where kicking and kicking I'm saying "dude! you're not doing right,you gotta bring it to TDC compression stroke then kick while perfectly timing the release of compression relief lever...and it will start every time first kick" so cool you figured out the secret!. lol so funny to me because no one ever wanted to ride mine because they couldn't start the engine. Also on first start of day i would hold the compression release in and slow kick the engine around a bunch to prime it up a little,then it would start one kick! No matter how cold,I still have my 1976 xt500 from back when i rode everday.that bike took so much abuse and neglect over the years! I'm sure it would start without much trouble,these machines just don't die! new sub! Thanks again for shooting this video really brought back some great memories
I bought one in 1980 brand new and it just never quit, if I could stay on the pegs I could climb it. Loved that bike. Girl friend said I mounted it more than her. I replied my bike was more fun to ride.
I've had two XT550s over the years and just loved them. Quite heavy but great for the back dirt roads in NZ. Glad to see you had the sense to open the garage door.......eventually.
The cool thing is if you decide to replace the base gasket, rings ect It's worth saving and would be a fun bike to have to get around town on to save fuel. Good job Joe !
I had a 78 xt500. Once it was dialed in she started effortlessly with the decomp lever. She was a wheelie machine. I loved that bike. She got impounded because a cop thought I was running from him but all I was doing was shredding the streets.🙌
Hey man, I recently was given a '76 TT500 for a computer and went through so many of these struggles from your two videos, and learned a lot to tune mine up watching. I know you said plans are unknown for this guy, but my bike sounded just like yours when it ran. it'll go, it'll play, but it had that same sound when trying to drive around. low down and bog out on you, and just be weird, even if it'll sit and idle just fine, I'm pretty sure I will need to do that base gasket as well, and if you did it in a video that'd help me out a lot, lol. There isn't a whole ton of info on the web about these, and fragmenting things together through forums and manuals can be a bit confusing. I love the way you show your process and it vibes with the way I think and it's easy to learn from. Thank you for your content.
I used to work with a guy who had that same model. He really wasn`t a motorcycle person, but rode it to work once in a while. He never had any problems getting his started, but I do remember that other people had all kinds of problems with this model. He passed away a few weeks ago, and I`ll bet his bike is still in the garage and looks like new. It can`t have more than 3-4K on it. Good luck with yours, these and the XL Honda`s are fine old motorcycles.
Hey man, great catch! I see people already commenting but you can still improve your kick procedure and avoid injury or damage. Try getting the tt500 1976 manual online and check the kickstarting procedure there. The cam window is nice but at night it won't serve you. You will eventually get used to find that spot without looking. Best way is to press the kick till you feel compression, release kick and let it slide up, press decomp and then lower the kick till it's horizontal. Let it come back up again, release decomp and make sure the kick latched almost fully vertical. Only then swing a full 180 degrees. When reaching the footpeg hold about 1s there to avoid kickback. Most of your kicks are rotating about 90 degrees, which is not ideal and a bit risky of getting a mule's kickback. Flywheel needs a full 2 revolutions as the spark only comes out at the end of the second. This will save you from leg day and avoid breaking an ankle. Another way to find the sweet spot is to press about half of the travel of your decomp lever (check freeplay as well!) you will feel a small click in the lever when you are in the sweet spot. With that, no more looking at cam window. Kick will not always latch and allow 180 degrees of travel. Restart the procedure if that's the case. Also, 80s model have points and no cdi. Check your points gap and timing, they should be starting to open on F on the flywheel. Strobo lamp highly recommended. (Edit: I was wrong, 80s US models already had CDI. Fancy!) Good luck and welcome to the forever suffering club of xt owners!
Little tip, if you want to start one of those old kickstart bikes, that don't start so nicely. Just tow it. You can take anything from a moped to a car. Just attach a rope centered to your bike and let somebody tow you around. That way you can also let it turn over a bit before activating the ignition. That makes sure, that the engine is well lubricated and also you get the number of turn overs you would kick in an hour in like 2min.
When I was in High school I would park my bike next to a guy with a brand new TT500 and I dont think that thing ever started on less than 10 kicks so I wasnt expecting to see yours start to quickly but well done for hanging in there. Cheers from New Zealand.
Bring it up slowly to tdc, then pull in the decompression and just move past tdc. Now, one strong kick and hold the kickstarter fully down, calmly repeat this procedure until it fires. Better than ripping the bike apart. Start with the correct procedure, before you hit the panic button. Don't have lots of hair but this made me pull out the little I had.
I had one in the 90s as a commuter, when it would start.... constantly needed valves and timing resetting, got rid of it for something reliable. They are nice ornaments and great fun when they are properly set up but I wouldn't have another one.... holding out for a Honda XL185s, had loads in 80s and 90s, great little bike with the right power to weight for green lanes.
fuel on , choke on , TDC ( in window ) , valve lifter , no throttle ... kick all the way through . they wernt designed to be hard to start . dosent help if its been sat though....and ive never heard XT 500 and free in the same sentence....what a score !!! well done .
Hi! That is a dry sump motor. You need to also drain the oil from your frame/oil tank. Drain plug on the front down tube. If you have too much oil in the sump, you have a faulty one way valve.
at least for min it would never start if you touch the gas/throttle.... so no gas/throttle while kicking and mine started always and every time. and i did notice yours started when you kept throttle complete closed. thanks for sharing brought back many good memories.. . a trip from denmark to rome and back, a trip with my best friend pilion and camping for a month to what was yugoslavia... with stop in insbruck to take engine off and change top and bottom gasket in the tent by ourselves... our mechanical babtism as we did not have enough money for a real mechanic.. but with clyme or was haines the book was called ... no problem
It's a classic case of ESO: Equipment Superior to Operator. That motorcycle deserves better. My God, he's using channel locks and an adjustable wrench to work on it!
Hi I hope you read the comments. I thought you would have got kicked by now. Just a tip your oil change was only a 1/2 job. There is oil in the frame and there's a metal screen at the bottom. Do your homework. These are awesome motorcycles you have lots to learn. there's also a bleed screw On top of the oil filter cap. I still remember when I got kicked From these motorcycles. Oh and don't forget to check your timing chain adjustment. And put a battery in it. Good luck nice to see it run
2 vintage is one of the only channels that consistently uploads on certain days. On my Friday, math class I always check TH-cam to see if you uploaded! Keep up the great work man! Love the channel
A 500 in proper tune will start in 2 or 3 kicks if you use the cam indicator window and never, never touch the throttle. If you touch the throttle you will kick 'til the cows come home
I. Want an old bike I just got a 1982-750 dual overhead cam. A CB 750 Honda with a four into one hooker header, velocity stacks and bigger jets in the carburetors to increase horsepower My cousin did that in 1973 with a 71 750. He ordered a CRANE - race cam from California and bored it out 60 over. Makin it a 860 CC WHEN A THOUSAND CC KAWASAKI PULLED UP TO HIM THEY THOUGHT THEY HAD IT IN THE BAG. All they could see after takeoff was taillights ROFL !!!!! 🤣 that Honda screamed and my cousin traded it for two dirt bikes because cops chased him and he found out when being pursued there wasn’t a low throttle position he thought he would wind up dead. I got a 1973 500 same as his 750 and I couldn’t blow it up and I tried I raced the wheels off it. I LOVE 70’s - 80’s JAPANESE MOTORSPORTS CYCLES ESPECIALLY THE 750 SUZUKI WATER COOLED 2 STROKE STREET BIKES. We called them WATER BUFFALOES THEY WERE SO FAST ITS INSANE BUT LEAVE IT TO THE GOVERNMENT TO BAN 2 STROKES BECAUSE OF EMMISIONS ARGH 😖 RALPH NASER AND HIS CRONIES READ UP ON HISTORY AND DONT LISTEN TO OUBLIC SCHOOLS TALKIN BOUT CRITICAL RACE THEORY ITS ALL BS.. And it’s a Theory not gospel REMEMBER THAT SON…
so unless you pulled all the brass in the carb and made sure all of it was clear that xt not going to run very,spray cleaning the bowl out wont get it! you need to spray all of the passeges out pull the air screw and idle mixture srews and clean them also ,make sure to set float hieght too.Set valve lash those 500s would not start or run well if its off even a little bit. if that dont work sell me your problems for 300 bucks and I will come and get it!!
I haven't finished the video but you never seem to check the actual ignition timing cam timing generally never gets very far off it is always the ignition timing
Why did you start the bike without first checking the oil running the engine with low oil will wreck the engine Also you have checked The valve timing what you need to check is the ignition timing all that popping could be un burnt fuel igniting in the exhaust caused By the ignition timing being out
When I was a kid in the 70’s I had an Ossa 250 Stiletto, it had an expansion chamber with a Basani tip I added. It was fast and a handful, I thought I was the King of the Chattahoochee River bottoms and gas lines in Forsyth County, Georgia, until an older kid got a shiny Yamaha TT500! I had to do the walk of shame when I raced him, I was a superior rider, but I just couldn’t beat the raw power of the TT when the trails smoothed out and straightened up, it was a powerhouse!
My local Yamaha dealer has got one of these bikes in PERFECT condition in their showroom.. I picked up some parts yesterday at their shop and I stared at this beauty for a good 10 minutes, because of how nice and beautiful is! Would love to own one of these one day...
I had a lot of these when i was teenager and loved them, lot of my friends wanted to ride it i said 'if you can start it you can ride it" they got scared of it cause it kept booting them back (kickback) very painful, if your foot slips off the kickstart and it boots back it'll rip your calf muscle open. They had contact points so if they weren't set properly or the throttle was open slightly when kicking it over, it will boot your ass right off there lol. You got to let them breathe free, open the exhaust, head work, oversize piston or head and boy they are a lot of fun. Our local copper use to chase me all the time he loved the thrill of the chase but was a very sore loser only time he caught me was when i was parked in a friends driveway visiting lol
The kickstart is in the wrong position which is giving you a short kick, it needs to sit more vertical. You only need to remove the valve covers, generator cover to see if the timing is wrong. A common issue is when someone times them 180 degree out,.
There's a trick to starting the xt! Top dead center. I used to own one of these beasts! Lol. I used to tell friends if you can start it you can ride it. From what I remember there's a mark on the cam that you put in the sight hole on the right side of head. It's been awhile, but definitely a trick to it! THUMPER LIFE
@@jaydangier1110 Yup. 4 stroke cycle still the same, hot or cold. For hot starts the xt on this video has a small button on LH of the carburetor, which you press up and it gives a little throttle. Alternatively, you can just squeeze the throttle handle a bit (which is what you do if your model doesn't have hot start button). But the kick procedure is always the same. And kickback possibilities as well, so dont mess it up!
@@paulcondie2520 If you know what you're doing and it's running right it doesn't hurt Forget the window (Kick Indicator), find compression (TDC) and using the decompression lever move it slightly past TDC this places the piston in the correct position so you have a full revolution before hitting compression again Once you understand you never need to look at the Kick Indicator again except to show others that it has such a thing
I guess I missed the part where you drained the oil out of the actual oil tank, The drain being at the bottom of the front frame tube. Below that is a fitting that unscrews from the bottom of that frame tube. There is a oil screen in there that should be checked for debris. That line under there is the supply to the oil pump. This is dry sump engine. Oil is not stored in the bottom of the engine. There are actually two oil pumps in one. One supplies the oil to the engine from the oil tank, the other scavenges oil from the bottom of the sump and returns it to the oil tank in the frame. When a dry sump engine sits for a long time, oil often will bypass the oil pump and end up in the sump where it does not belong. You should always drain a dry sump engine that's been sitting for long time. Oil needs to be in the tank in order for it to be supplied to the engine. Oil seeping through the oil pump and filling the engine can result in oil being pushed out the crankcase breather, and into the stock air filter housing, because that's where the crankcase breather goes. This will usually result in a fouled spark plug at the very least, and can easily blow gaskets and seals if you are unlucky. The poor running, besides a fouled plug, I can almost guarantee is a partially plugged pilot jet and the hard starting, same with starter jet that supplies the choke circuit. A partially plugged pilot jet can end up being a disaster as it will create a lean fuel/air ratio which can raise the combustion chamber temperature to temps high enough to overheat and expand the piston enough to seize it, or burn the exhaust valve, burn pits into the piston. It will also cause pre-detonation, also very bad. On multi cylinder engines it can easily melt a hole through the piston. I'm not exaggerating. Clean the carb next.
Line up the bulb for compression stroke or it won't go, if it pops otherwise gonna bend valves. Ask me how I know, crazy deal but awesome fast, fun bike to ride. I had one back in the late 80s, rode it til I couldn't, first Enduro I had, would love another one. The XT 500 is still one my favorite all time bikes.
You are just learning so keep trying. Get yourself a shop manual for the bike. I own several TT and XT500 bikes. My oldest one I have owned since it was new in 1978. It has over 5000 offroad miles with only normal maintenance. With adequate compression, good spark, and a properly functioning carburetor, they are two kick starters. My advice is to take another look at the carburetor and the fuel delivery system as a whole.
You have probably had plenty of people help you with starting technique by now but I have owned a 500 (1978 model) for 40 years. Push the kick starter down till it hits compression, pull the decompression lever and push kick starter a bit further. If you watch the kick indicator you will see where you are up to. After a bit of practice you won’t need to look at the indicator. Let kick starter back to top and give it a good kick.They can be a bitch to kick back and drive your knee into the handle bars which causes a lot of pain and no starting attempts till tomorrow. The kick starter goes off the end of the ratchet drive right at the bottom to help prevent this, keep it at the bottom till it is safe to kick again. The XT 500 is a real classic, value it. The first Dakar Rally was won with one in almost stock standard trim just like yours. Enjoy it, they are pretty bullet proof.
Thanks for the entertaining video .. I wish I found a free XT500... The 76 XT did not have the little window on the cam to help starting .. I had to go by feel . The starting technique was a good deterrent for people who wanted a ride . Many a sprained ankle when the 500 kicked back viciously .. These bikes are hard to find and cost a small fortune here in Australia now .. I owned two new XT500s , a 76 and 78 as well as a street legal 77 TT500 in my youth. Pigs to start when flooded . Many times I cursed them after I dropped them when trail riding.. Easy to fix and work on though ... I wish I had kept the TT500 ...
Had one of these from new. You do need to use the kickstart indicator as they are very tricky compared to british singles I've owned. Also as someone mentioned, keep throttle closed on kickover or it'll never start. in my experience.
Check your air intake boot on the motor side for cracks . A damaged boot would cause this sort of running issue under load. Love seeing old bikes come back to life.
Have you checked that your kicker arm is on properly? There is a little notch on the shaft, that is supposed to line up with the gap on the arm where the bolt goes through. Looks like the are isn't all the way up, and you therefore arent getting a whole revolution out of your kick. Had the same problem with mine
Hope you've got it fixed by now. Shouldn't have to kick kick kick like that. Always check for spark fuel and compression. These singles are not tricky to start if you know how to start them!! Mine has 168000kms on it with rebuild at 90000. It started 2 or 3rd kick after sitting in my shed for 20 years. It is a 1976 model. It does not have that kick indicator nor do you really need it. You find compression then use the decompression release to bring the kickstart lever to the horizontal position then let it return to the top and with choke on ( cold start only) and no throttle kick it fully down and it should start. If it doesn't check your plug and then points (plug wet or fouled or points pitted and or dirty). This engine starts easily if above is done and in order. Not at all tricky. Sounds like the timing gear inside the right crankcase is installed 180deg out of phase. There is timing marks that must be aligned at top dead centre on the COMPRESSION STROKE not the exhaust stroke. It can be done wrong as I did once and it was hard to start and ran toughly and backfired and ran like shit. Someone may have installed this gear with the marks aligned at Tdc on the rxhaust stroke and thats why they gave it away! Easily rectified. Hope you have discovered this by now. These are torquey reliable engines but you need to consult workshop manual and know how it should be set up
My sons 93 Dr350 started same way. Was very hard to get running even if it seemed compression was good. He rebuilt top end then was way easier to start. Not easier to kick over but started in no more then 3 kicks
Same thing happing to my KLT160 ATC. I have pulled it over until my hand is blistered. It just backfires and back fires. I have cheeked the timing over and over and over again! I think its the cold weather!
I had an old TT500. It was a bear to start. I never knew about the window. I may try that the next time I try to fire the TT up. Thanks for the great video.
This brings back memories to an old guy--I bought a new orange TT500 during a period of fights with the wife--she forbid me to have anything like this so I bought it and she never forgave me --we were divorced a year later--the only bright spot was cowtrailing around Kamloops, BC, the greatest trail riding of my life! I was young, I could kick like a mule, the bike taught me how to start it--it was a one-kicker for me!
Im a 140 dude and i used to have a hell of a time starting an old late 70s xt, The thing was a beast but i remember it having a decompression lever which mildly helped. Once you got it running and warm it would fire right back up though. Fun bike but was soooooo heavy.
All you have to do is FEEL where the compression stroke starts with the kick starter. Once you feel that hard resistance...lift the compression release lever and carefully move the kick started slightly down with your foot to get the engine just past the compression stroke. Once you get the knack of that, you'll no longer ever have to look at the little window again to tell you it's ready to kick over.
Hey man, put that Yam in gear and roll the bike backwards till it slides rear tire. That is TDC... Put in neutral and KICK. Mine has a 12 to 1 compression ratio.. You can always push it off in second or third gear. Good luck.
The xt500 is very finicky. I have a 1979 that was my dads. You would have had to completely disassemble the carb and replace the accelerator pumps. The carb has to be perfect for it to run well. Also, my 1979 calls for leaded gas only. So i have to run to the air port for aviation gas. With correct ignition timing, clean points, clean carb, will run pretty well.
I had a 81 Dr 500 free .. I rebuilt it new piston rings , bored over 30 & cam chain & guides. Also there should be a comp release 🤪 it’ll hurt when it kicks back. I was 135-140 pounds lol but I had fun on it. Good luck 🤘🏼. I know ya can do it !
as you said the carburetor had spark and the plug dint .......did you have the coil connected to the carb maybe ....as it may only get an ground through the throttle cables ..... maybe this is why you have flames coming out the carb ...
I had a TT500 and it was a beast ,the oil tank was in the front not under the tank in the frame but unfortunately it had a filter in the bottom that I didn't know and it was clogged and it shortened it's life ,that thing I can be going down the road and the front would easily come off the ground without caping the accelerator at high speeds so be carefull I was kind scared of it going up hills cause of the power just a slight jolt of the accelerator it would just lift the front with ease .
I think you may be overlooking something very important. At least I haven’t seen you check it yet. IGNITION TIMING! I doubt the base gasket would be cause for an air leak because the sleeve extends into the crank case below the base gasket. My guess is the points need cleaned and timed!
Very good video. I am thinking about what my next bike will be. I got a tw200 last year and got my license. I like dual sports. Have been planning on getting a new dr650. But I am old school. I restored a 65 Willy's Jeep I plan to keep. I like the kickstart on a bike. Your vid and knowledge showed me a lot about the xt500. So, do you think an xt500 could be a daily rider for a mechanically inclined guy these days? Would be cool to see an all finished video of your bike!
I have this exact motor in my SR500 and it is a real finnicky piece of engineering. Very user unfriendly and difficulty to start, gets out of whack easily too. Not the easiest to use yamaha motor, but once it is running, it is a fun machine.
had the SR500 to start , ease engine up to compression , ease over letting kickstart travel approx halfway , return to top and then SWING the kick dont stab at it , a good smooth downward push and bingo they start ,
One can install the breaker 180° upside down and this causes terrible backfiring. Had this with mine at the beginning. Was sure it killed my foot for days. I never use the kick indicator, you can feel when the piston is over the dead point. But if the cover of the generator is of you open the breaker and check out the distance of the contact. My XT will not fire if I do not put the kicker on the highest possible point. You have to play for doing so. The middle position is not high enough. B.th.w. I never leave my foot on the kicker - too dangerous.
Great bike. Had one back in the 80's. The compression release helps to start it for sure. That comp release window was impossible to see after dark, so was useless. I eventually had a feel for it, and didn't need to look at the window(after dark) to start it. It was always a hard starter, even when running great with fresh tune-up. Throw a "Supertrapp" on it and he'll scream. Interested in selling it?
When you hold the little lever that keeps the exhaust valve open, you feel the force on your finger disappear at the moment the metal part comes in sight. That way you don't need to look at the window.
You have overfilled it with oil mate when you dip the oil you are to screw the dip stick in then unscrew it and take a look I had one of those mine was a h model I still have the original owners Manuel for it you will find if you put a performance pipe on them they go along better,years ago you could buy a super trap ,down here in Australia we had a firm that made Peter Allen power pipes I ran them on all of my bike the performance from these pipes were good plus the some they made cheers tony
the carb needs rebuilt. soaking it in the ultrasonic cleaner makes it shiny, but all the ports still need cleaned out , and the accelerator pump needs the diaphragm replaced..
Xtz just like sr500 there's a sight glass on the top that tells you when your on TDC then you give it all you got Give It To Nuts show crank right over if your carburetor is good you going to clean them accelerator pumps so should have enough to turn fire up also there's a drain plug in the front by the tire that does more oil drain man love these bikes
My leg still hurts lol.
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I know how you feel was kicking the 525 for ages and then realised it had a safety release off hahahahaha what an idiot l am
@@RagdollRacingInc haha that's rough!
What’s that 4 wheeler sitting in front of your bike
@@marksabean6673 New video on it Sunday!
A trick to starting that is to kick it to top dead center, once you have it at top dead center pull the compression release and and kick it past the first little bit of resistance then stop and let go of the compression release and give it a good kick and she will start.
Back in '81, I extensively rode a brand new XT500 that had the Black enamel/polished aluminium tank just like yours.
It was so Beautiful, Powerful and Smooth back then (compared to my clapped out Honda SL125) that it was a REVELATION!!!
I was 14 and the XT was just a HEAVENLY Riding Experience that I have never forgotten!
Watch out for the TT500, I had a '79 recently, SIX VOLT electrics suck, I think the XT's have 12 volt!
Later, I enjoyed my '86 XT600 for Twelve Years, me and that 'Bike did everything together, from top to bottom of NZ, EVERYBODY wanted a ride on the back! A couple of Thousand WHEEL STANDS later, it broke my heart to trade her in for the next love of my life, my '91 Harley.
So good to see you have the patience and the skills to get this Beautiful, now old, Girl back on the Road Mate, Goodonya!
Back in '79 I had the road-going version, the SR-500. That one had electronic ignition and produced its ignition-current from a coil or so behind the flywheel. I could start it without the battery.
Greetings from the Netherlands.🙂
You also have to drain the oil at the front of the frame; the oil is inside the frame.
...and more importantly remove the sump plate and clean the wire screen in the top of the sump plate, this is where you will find any broken pieces and shavings from inside the engine
Exactly: it's a dry-sump-engine.
Looks like the 81 or 82 model. SR500 type CDI ignition. Front downtube has secondary oil reserve, small drain hole at the front, and a mesh filter at the bottom of it where the pickup tube is at for the oil pump. Good units, really. Kickstarter was massively out of position, usually the foot lever is level up by the exhaust pipe in the up position. Not a bad bike, and it wasn't wet sumping. Looks like you got a good one. There's also an oil strainer under the bottom of the engine, under the plate with the drain bolt. Exhaust valve clearance .15mm (cold) and intake .10 cold. 220 main jet on the thing, 22.5mm float height. Sounds like it's got some pilot jet clogging going on at 31:45. That's just by the main jet up in the hole on the main jet pillar. Also highly recommended to check the diapgragms on that carburetor. Air cut valve (on side), accellerator pump and accellerator pump cut valve all can get holed.
This was my dream bike growing up as a kid. I'd love to find one of these at a reasonable price and do a full restore. Nice find. Good luck with the build!
Really cool video,the hole time you where kicking and kicking I'm saying "dude! you're not doing right,you gotta bring it to TDC compression stroke then kick while perfectly timing the release of compression relief lever...and it will start every time first kick" so cool you figured out the secret!. lol so funny to me because no one ever wanted to ride mine because they couldn't start the engine. Also on first start of day i would hold the compression release in and slow kick the engine around a bunch to prime it up a little,then it would start one kick! No matter how cold,I still have my 1976 xt500 from back when i rode everday.that bike took so much abuse and neglect over the years!
I'm sure it would start without much trouble,these machines just don't die! new sub! Thanks again for shooting this video really brought back some great memories
I bought one in 1980 brand new and it just never quit, if I could stay on the pegs I could climb it. Loved that bike.
Girl friend said I mounted it more than her.
I replied my bike was more fun to ride.
I've had two XT550s over the years and just loved them. Quite heavy but great for the back dirt roads in NZ.
Glad to see you had the sense to open the garage door.......eventually.
Not a 2 stroke but still pretty cool find!
@@brandonknight7240 😭💀
You have a hardley as a profile picture
True, i forgot harleys were the best twostrokes
Keep the content coming! Love these videos and seeing all the cool old stuff come back to life.
Dry sump engine, oil in frame as well. I've had 2 XT'S & 1 SR. great bikes,easy to work on.
The cool thing is if you decide to replace the base gasket, rings ect It's worth saving and would be a fun bike to have to get around town on to save fuel. Good job Joe !
I had a 78 xt500. Once it was dialed in she started effortlessly with the decomp lever. She was a wheelie machine. I loved that bike. She got impounded because a cop thought I was running from him but all I was doing was shredding the streets.🙌
Hey man, I recently was given a '76 TT500 for a computer and went through so many of these struggles from your two videos, and learned a lot to tune mine up watching.
I know you said plans are unknown for this guy, but my bike sounded just like yours when it ran. it'll go, it'll play, but it had that same sound when trying to drive around. low down and bog out on you, and just be weird, even if it'll sit and idle just fine,
I'm pretty sure I will need to do that base gasket as well, and if you did it in a video that'd help me out a lot, lol. There isn't a whole ton of info on the web about these, and fragmenting things together through forums and manuals can be a bit confusing. I love the way you show your process and it vibes with the way I think and it's easy to learn from.
Thank you for your content.
Pull your pilot and main jets, run a wire through them and install an inline fuel filter. See if that helps, usually is the culprit
I used to work with a guy who had that same model. He really wasn`t a motorcycle person, but rode it to work once in a while. He never had any problems getting his started, but I do remember that other people had all kinds of problems with this model. He passed away a few weeks ago, and I`ll bet his bike is still in the garage and looks like new. It can`t have more than 3-4K on it. Good luck with yours, these and the XL Honda`s are fine old motorcycles.
Cracked the Starting Procedure! It’s a black art & if everything not all synced & working together you can forget it!
Hey man, great catch! I see people already commenting but you can still improve your kick procedure and avoid injury or damage.
Try getting the tt500 1976 manual online and check the kickstarting procedure there. The cam window is nice but at night it won't serve you. You will eventually get used to find that spot without looking. Best way is to press the kick till you feel compression, release kick and let it slide up, press decomp and then lower the kick till it's horizontal. Let it come back up again, release decomp and make sure the kick latched almost fully vertical. Only then swing a full 180 degrees. When reaching the footpeg hold about 1s there to avoid kickback.
Most of your kicks are rotating about 90 degrees, which is not ideal and a bit risky of getting a mule's kickback. Flywheel needs a full 2 revolutions as the spark only comes out at the end of the second. This will save you from leg day and avoid breaking an ankle.
Another way to find the sweet spot is to press about half of the travel of your decomp lever (check freeplay as well!) you will feel a small click in the lever when you are in the sweet spot. With that, no more looking at cam window.
Kick will not always latch and allow 180 degrees of travel. Restart the procedure if that's the case.
Also, 80s model have points and no cdi. Check your points gap and timing, they should be starting to open on F on the flywheel. Strobo lamp highly recommended.
(Edit: I was wrong, 80s US models already had CDI. Fancy!)
Good luck and welcome to the forever suffering club of xt owners!
Little tip, if you want to start one of those old kickstart bikes, that don't start so nicely. Just tow it. You can take anything from a moped to a car. Just attach a rope centered to your bike and let somebody tow you around. That way you can also let it turn over a bit before activating the ignition. That makes sure, that the engine is well lubricated and also you get the number of turn overs you would kick in an hour in like 2min.
One of my favourite bikes of all time. Well done getting it back to life again.😊
I remember when this bike came out. I subscribed to all four of the street bike mags. They loved it's handling and performance.
Nice one! Although a bit risky not changing the oil prior to running. Well done.
I bought a new one of those back in 1981..........man I'm old. Great bike though! 😁
close the compression release and chunk the controls. It is nothing but trouble.
When I was in High school I would park my bike next to a guy with a brand new TT500 and I dont think that thing ever started on less than 10 kicks so I wasnt expecting to see yours start to quickly but well done for hanging in there. Cheers from New Zealand.
Ya know the weeds getting to ya when you're willing to sit here and watch the dude kick that bike for as long as I did lmao....
U know the cracks gettin to u wen u just skip to the end
@@Bumpyfn250 or the acid
Bring it up slowly to tdc, then pull in the decompression and just move past tdc. Now, one strong kick and hold the kickstarter fully down, calmly repeat this procedure until it fires.
Better than ripping the bike apart. Start with the correct procedure, before you hit the panic button.
Don't have lots of hair but this made me pull out the little I had.
I had one in the 90s as a commuter, when it would start.... constantly needed valves and timing resetting, got rid of it for something reliable. They are nice ornaments and great fun when they are properly set up but I wouldn't have another one.... holding out for a Honda XL185s, had loads in 80s and 90s, great little bike with the right power to weight for green lanes.
You don't give up very easily, you stick with it till there are no more options. Great job. 👍
Your leg is gonna look like quagmires arm after he found the internet
GIGGITY giggity! AlRiiiiight...
Young man ,you have my respect . Videos are awesome. Ii am mehanic and my pasion is old time bikes ,rebuilt restore . I am from Croatia .
fuel on , choke on , TDC ( in window ) , valve lifter , no throttle ... kick all the way through . they wernt designed to be hard to start . dosent help if its been sat though....and ive never heard XT 500 and free in the same sentence....what a score !!! well done .
Hi! That is a dry sump motor. You need to also drain the oil from your frame/oil tank. Drain plug on the front down tube. If you have too much oil in the sump, you have a faulty one way valve.
at least for min it would never start if you touch the gas/throttle.... so no gas/throttle while kicking and mine started always and every time. and i did notice yours started when you kept throttle complete closed. thanks for sharing brought back many good memories.. . a trip from denmark to rome and back, a trip with my best friend pilion and camping for a month to what was yugoslavia... with stop in insbruck to take engine off and change top and bottom gasket in the tent by ourselves... our mechanical babtism as we did not have enough money for a real mechanic.. but with clyme or was haines the book was called ... no problem
It's a classic case of ESO: Equipment Superior to Operator. That motorcycle deserves better. My God, he's using channel locks and an adjustable wrench to work on it!
Painful to watch. Some people actually think he knows what he's doing. God help them.
Yeah I have 2 of these bikes. They are so easy to start.
@@NotaRobot_gif Tragikal that an total amatur dear to post a so unprofessional video
Never checked points ?
Hi I hope you read the comments. I thought you would have got kicked by now. Just a tip your oil change was only a 1/2 job. There is oil in the frame and there's a metal screen at the bottom. Do your homework. These are awesome motorcycles you have lots to learn. there's also a bleed screw On top of the oil filter cap. I still remember when I got kicked From these motorcycles. Oh and don't forget to check your timing chain adjustment. And put a battery in it. Good luck nice to see it run
Just said all this myself 😂
2 vintage is one of the only channels that consistently uploads on certain days. On my Friday, math class I always check TH-cam to see if you uploaded! Keep up the great work man! Love the channel
A 500 in proper tune will start in 2 or 3 kicks if you use the cam indicator window and never, never touch the throttle. If you touch the throttle you will kick 'til the cows come home
I. Want an old bike
I just got a 1982-750 dual overhead cam. A CB 750 Honda with a four into one hooker header, velocity stacks and bigger jets in the carburetors to increase horsepower
My cousin did that in 1973 with a 71 750. He ordered a CRANE - race cam from California and bored it out 60 over. Makin it a 860 CC
WHEN A THOUSAND CC KAWASAKI PULLED UP TO HIM THEY THOUGHT THEY HAD IT IN THE BAG. All they could see after takeoff was taillights
ROFL !!!!! 🤣 that Honda screamed and my cousin traded it for two dirt bikes because cops chased him and he found out when being pursued there wasn’t a low throttle position he thought he would wind up dead. I got a 1973 500 same as his 750 and I couldn’t blow it up and I tried I raced the wheels off it.
I LOVE 70’s - 80’s JAPANESE MOTORSPORTS CYCLES
ESPECIALLY THE 750 SUZUKI WATER COOLED 2 STROKE STREET BIKES. We called them WATER BUFFALOES THEY WERE SO FAST ITS INSANE
BUT LEAVE IT TO THE GOVERNMENT TO BAN 2 STROKES BECAUSE OF EMMISIONS ARGH 😖 RALPH NASER AND HIS CRONIES
READ UP ON HISTORY AND DONT LISTEN TO OUBLIC SCHOOLS TALKIN BOUT CRITICAL RACE THEORY ITS ALL BS..
And it’s a Theory not gospel
REMEMBER THAT SON…
so unless you pulled all the brass in the carb and made sure all of it was clear that xt not going to run very,spray cleaning the bowl out wont get it! you need to spray all of the passeges out pull the air screw and idle mixture srews and clean them also ,make sure to set float hieght too.Set valve lash those 500s would not start or run well if its off even a little bit. if that dont work sell me your problems for 300 bucks and I will come and get it!!
I haven't finished the video but you never seem to check the actual ignition timing cam timing generally never gets very far off it is always the ignition timing
I love these videos I get so excited when they come out lol
I’m happy to see another Wisconsinite that rides his projects in the dead of winter, I always get the strangest looks
Why did you start the bike without first checking the oil running the engine with low oil will wreck the engine Also you have checked
The valve timing what you need to check is the ignition timing all that popping could be un burnt fuel igniting in the exhaust caused
By the ignition timing being out
I hope you can get the parts for it! Would love to see this old thumper rebuilt
Bingo you found the Kick indicator yay good for you
When I was a kid in the 70’s I had an Ossa 250 Stiletto, it had an expansion chamber with a Basani tip I added. It was fast and a handful, I thought I was the King of the Chattahoochee River bottoms and gas lines in Forsyth County, Georgia, until an older kid got a shiny Yamaha TT500! I had to do the walk of shame when I raced him, I was a superior rider, but I just couldn’t beat the raw power of the TT when the trails smoothed out and straightened up, it was a powerhouse!
My local Yamaha dealer has got one of these bikes in PERFECT condition in their showroom.. I picked up some parts yesterday at their shop and I stared at this beauty for a good 10 minutes, because of how nice and beautiful is! Would love to own one of these one day...
I had a lot of these when i was teenager and loved them, lot of my friends wanted to ride it i said 'if you can start it you can ride it" they got scared of it cause it kept booting them back (kickback) very painful, if your foot slips off the kickstart and it boots back it'll rip your calf muscle open. They had contact points so if they weren't set properly or the throttle was open slightly when kicking it over, it will boot your ass right off there lol. You got to let them breathe free, open the exhaust, head work, oversize piston or head and boy they are a lot of fun. Our local copper use to chase me all the time he loved the thrill of the chase but was a very sore loser only time he caught me was when i was parked in a friends driveway visiting lol
The kickstart is in the wrong position which is giving you a short kick, it needs to sit more vertical. You only need to remove the valve covers, generator cover to see if the timing is wrong. A common issue is when someone times them 180 degree out,.
yes top part should be horizontal in rest!!
Yep, the kickstart alone would make it hard to start
There's a trick to starting the xt! Top dead center. I used to own one of these beasts! Lol. I used to tell friends if you can start it you can ride it. From what I remember there's a mark on the cam that you put in the sight hole on the right side of head. It's been awhile, but definitely a trick to it! THUMPER LIFE
Do you still need to do this when its warm?
It’s same as starting a vintage Royal Enfield
@@jaydangier1110 Yup. 4 stroke cycle still the same, hot or cold. For hot starts the xt on this video has a small button on LH of the carburetor, which you press up and it gives a little throttle. Alternatively, you can just squeeze the throttle handle a bit (which is what you do if your model doesn't have hot start button).
But the kick procedure is always the same. And kickback possibilities as well, so dont mess it up!
@@francofranchetti yep, it'll hurt your kicking leg for sure. I loved my old xt.
@@paulcondie2520
If you know what you're doing and it's running right it doesn't hurt
Forget the window (Kick Indicator), find compression (TDC) and using the decompression lever move it slightly past TDC this places the piston in the correct position so you have a full revolution before hitting compression again
Once you understand you never need to look at the Kick Indicator again except to show others that it has such a thing
I guess I missed the part where you drained the oil out of the actual oil tank, The drain being at the bottom of the front frame tube. Below that is a fitting that unscrews from the bottom of that frame tube. There is a oil screen in there that should be checked for debris. That line under there is the supply to the oil pump. This is dry sump engine. Oil is not stored in the bottom of the engine. There are actually two oil pumps in one. One supplies the oil to the engine from the oil tank, the other scavenges oil from the bottom of the sump and returns it to the oil tank in the frame. When a dry sump engine sits for a long time, oil often will bypass the oil pump and end up in the sump where it does not belong. You should always drain a dry sump engine that's been sitting for long time. Oil needs to be in the tank in order for it to be supplied to the engine. Oil seeping through the oil pump and filling the engine can result in oil being pushed out the crankcase breather, and into the stock air filter housing, because that's where the crankcase breather goes. This will usually result in a fouled spark plug at the very least, and can easily blow gaskets and seals if you are unlucky. The poor running, besides a fouled plug, I can almost guarantee is a partially plugged pilot jet and the hard starting, same with starter jet that supplies the choke circuit. A partially plugged pilot jet can end up being a disaster as it will create a lean fuel/air ratio which can raise the combustion chamber temperature to temps high enough to overheat and expand the piston enough to seize it, or burn the exhaust valve, burn pits into the piston. It will also cause pre-detonation, also very bad. On multi cylinder engines it can easily melt a hole through the piston. I'm not exaggerating. Clean the carb next.
LOOKS LIKE YOU finally got a predator 500 in the background nice
Hmmm
Line up the bulb for compression stroke or it won't go, if it pops otherwise gonna bend valves. Ask me how I know, crazy deal but awesome fast, fun bike to ride. I had one back in the late 80s, rode it til I couldn't, first Enduro I had, would love another one. The XT 500 is still one my favorite all time bikes.
You are just learning so keep trying. Get yourself a shop manual for the bike. I own several TT and XT500 bikes. My oldest one I have owned since it was new in 1978. It has over 5000 offroad miles with only normal maintenance. With adequate compression, good spark, and a properly functioning carburetor, they are two kick starters. My advice is to take another look at the carburetor and the fuel delivery system as a whole.
You have probably had plenty of people help you with starting technique by now but I have owned a 500 (1978 model) for 40 years. Push the kick starter down till it hits compression, pull the decompression lever and push kick starter a bit further. If you watch the kick indicator you will see where you are up to. After a bit of practice you won’t need to look at the indicator. Let kick starter back to top and give it a good kick.They can be a bitch to kick back and drive your knee into the handle bars which causes a lot of pain and no starting attempts till tomorrow. The kick starter goes off the end of the ratchet drive right at the bottom to help prevent this, keep it at the bottom till it is safe to kick again. The XT 500 is a real classic, value it. The first Dakar Rally was won with one in almost stock standard trim just like yours. Enjoy it, they are pretty bullet proof.
They don’t have an accelerator pump till a much later model.
The carb accelerator pump is junk and your engine breather is plugged
they continued to make these in Germany until the late 90s, although they say they were not the same I was sure that they were close.
Thanks for the entertaining video .. I wish I found a free XT500... The 76 XT did not have the little window on the cam to help starting .. I had to go by feel . The starting technique was a good deterrent for people who wanted a ride . Many a sprained ankle when the 500 kicked back viciously .. These bikes are hard to find and cost a small fortune here in Australia now .. I owned two new XT500s , a 76 and 78 as well as a street legal 77 TT500 in my youth. Pigs to start when flooded . Many times I cursed them after I dropped them when trail riding.. Easy to fix and work on though ... I wish I had kept the TT500 ...
Had one of these from new. You do need to use the kickstart indicator as they are very tricky compared to british singles I've owned. Also as someone mentioned, keep throttle closed on kickover or it'll never start. in my experience.
Adjust the timing chain tension.....right rear of jug.....plastic cap ...under the cap is a locking nut and adjuster.....
Check your air intake boot on the motor side for cracks . A damaged boot would cause this sort of running issue under load. Love seeing old bikes come back to life.
Have you checked that your kicker arm is on properly? There is a little notch on the shaft, that is supposed to line up with the gap on the arm where the bolt goes through. Looks like the are isn't all the way up, and you therefore arent getting a whole revolution out of your kick. Had the same problem with mine
Line the indicator up in the sight glass at the end of the cam, then give it a smooth strong boot.
Hope you've got it fixed by now. Shouldn't have to kick kick kick like that. Always check for spark fuel and compression.
These singles are not tricky to start if you know how to start them!! Mine has 168000kms on it with rebuild at 90000.
It started 2 or 3rd kick after sitting in my shed for 20 years. It is a 1976 model. It does not have that kick indicator nor do you really need it. You find compression then use the decompression release to bring the kickstart lever to the horizontal position then let it return to the top and with choke on ( cold start only) and no throttle kick it fully down and it should start. If it doesn't check your plug and then points (plug wet or fouled or points pitted and or dirty). This engine starts easily if above is done and in order. Not at all tricky.
Sounds like the timing gear inside the right crankcase is installed 180deg out of phase. There is timing marks that must be aligned at top dead centre on the COMPRESSION STROKE not the exhaust stroke. It can be done wrong as I did once and it was hard to start and ran toughly and backfired and ran like shit. Someone may have installed this gear with the marks aligned at Tdc on the rxhaust stroke and thats why they gave it away! Easily rectified. Hope you have discovered this by now. These are torquey reliable engines but you need to consult workshop manual and know how it should be set up
super!! this bikes are rare and expensive right now!
try starting fluid use the red kind spay it in the air filter hole and you need gas you have no gas tank on and you need gas and turn on the gas line
You have a compression release and have to set the rotation at a certain point before kicking it.
My sons 93 Dr350 started same way. Was very hard to get running even if it seemed compression was good. He rebuilt top end then was way easier to start. Not easier to kick over but started in no more then 3 kicks
great job bringing her back , that silver floating on top of the oil in your pan is fine metal .
29.30: sometimes ignition-problems seem like carby-problems.
Couldt it be?
A poor spark?
Because of a defect capacitor?
Same thing happing to my KLT160 ATC. I have pulled it over until my hand is blistered. It just backfires and back fires. I have cheeked the timing over and over and over again! I think its the cold weather!
Set your valve lash
@@whistlindixiesmallengine2085 Yeah i did! Thanks tho.
Honda did the same with the early VF bikes with the oil running through the frame
Hey man great job. I bet someone preserved it years ago with a liberal dose of oil down the spark plug hole hence the hard start.
I had an old TT500. It was a bear to start. I never knew about the window. I may try that the next time I try to fire the TT up. Thanks for the great video.
I think you need to make sure the slow jet in the carb isn’t clogged or just get a new, bigger carb. The oil is in the frame.
Did you remember to torque the head to spec after putting it back together? Always recheck after first heat cycle
This brings back memories to an old guy--I bought a new orange TT500 during a period of fights with the wife--she forbid me to have anything like this so I bought it and she never forgave me --we were divorced a year later--the only bright spot was cowtrailing around Kamloops, BC, the greatest trail riding of my life! I was young, I could kick like a mule, the bike taught me how to start it--it was a one-kicker for me!
I never see you refer to ignition timing, valve timing is a different issue. If ignition timing is out an engine will never start!
Love the channel. Admire your determination. Burrrr inside an unheated, uninsulated garage during a Wisconsin winter.
Im a 140 dude and i used to have a hell of a time starting an old late 70s xt, The thing was a beast but i remember it having a decompression lever which mildly helped. Once you got it running and warm it would fire right back up though. Fun bike but was soooooo heavy.
You better bulk up then! I’m 135 and after fixing 3 for a guy they’re very easy to start!
@@dilloncollins7521 sounds like you had some mint condition ones, the one i had was beat to hell and was clapped out.... smh have fun lightweight
@@kdknitro lmao
All you have to do is FEEL where the compression stroke starts with the kick starter. Once you feel that hard resistance...lift the compression release lever and carefully move the kick started slightly down with your foot to get the engine just past the compression stroke. Once you get the knack of that, you'll no longer ever have to look at the little window again to tell you it's ready to kick over.
Yes more of this bike, great video😀😀
Hey man, put that Yam in gear and roll the bike backwards till it slides rear tire. That is TDC... Put in neutral and KICK. Mine has a 12 to 1 compression ratio.. You can always push it off in second or third gear. Good luck.
I love these videos, just wish after he buys one it would get degreased and pressure washed. Good work man keep it up! 💪
You do such a great job explaining exactly what your doing and why. I have enjoyed your videos for years Thank You!
The xt500 is very finicky. I have a 1979 that was my dads. You would have had to completely disassemble the carb and replace the accelerator pumps. The carb has to be perfect for it to run well. Also, my 1979 calls for leaded gas only. So i have to run to the air port for aviation gas. With correct ignition timing, clean points, clean carb, will run pretty well.
I had a 81 Dr 500 free .. I rebuilt it new piston rings , bored over 30 & cam chain & guides. Also there should be a comp release 🤪 it’ll hurt when it kicks back. I was 135-140 pounds lol but I had fun on it. Good luck 🤘🏼. I know ya can do it !
as you said the carburetor had spark and the plug dint .......did you have the coil connected to the carb maybe ....as it may only get an ground through the throttle cables ..... maybe this is why you have flames coming out the carb ...
I had a TT500 and it was a beast ,the oil tank was in the front not under the tank in the frame but unfortunately it had a filter in the bottom that I didn't know and it was clogged and it shortened it's life ,that thing I can be going down the road and the front would easily come off the ground without caping the accelerator at high speeds so be carefull I was kind scared of it going up hills cause of the power just a slight jolt of the accelerator it would just lift the front with ease .
Just have your friend pull you around the block!
I think you may be overlooking something very important. At least I haven’t seen you check it yet. IGNITION TIMING! I doubt the base gasket would be cause for an air leak because the sleeve extends into the crank case below the base gasket. My guess is the points need cleaned and timed!
Very good video. I am thinking about what my next bike will be. I got a tw200 last year and got my license. I like dual sports. Have been planning on getting a new dr650. But I am old school. I restored a 65 Willy's Jeep I plan to keep. I like the kickstart on a bike. Your vid and knowledge showed me a lot about the xt500. So, do you think an xt500 could be a daily rider for a mechanically inclined guy these days? Would be cool to see an all finished video of your bike!
I have this exact motor in my SR500 and it is a real finnicky piece of engineering. Very user unfriendly and difficulty to start, gets out of whack easily too. Not the easiest to use yamaha motor, but once it is running, it is a fun machine.
had the SR500 to start , ease engine up to compression , ease over letting kickstart travel approx halfway , return to top and then SWING the kick dont stab at it , a good smooth downward push and bingo they start ,
Nice bike. Love all the tripod shots! Its so good untill you grab the cam so fast and jerky.. really only wanna help.
Steady as she goes.
One can install the breaker 180° upside down and this causes terrible backfiring. Had this with mine at the beginning. Was sure it killed my foot for days. I never use the kick indicator, you can feel when the piston is over the dead point. But if the cover of the generator is of you open the breaker and check out the distance of the contact.
My XT will not fire if I do not put the kicker on the highest possible point. You have to play for doing so. The middle position is not high enough. B.th.w. I never leave my foot on the kicker - too dangerous.
Great bike. Had one back in the 80's. The compression release helps to start it for sure. That comp release window was impossible to see after dark, so was useless. I eventually had a feel for it, and didn't need to look at the window(after dark) to start it. It was always a hard starter, even when running great with fresh tune-up. Throw a "Supertrapp" on it and he'll scream.
Interested in selling it?
When you hold the little lever that keeps the exhaust valve open, you feel the force on your finger disappear at the moment the metal part comes in sight. That way you don't need to look at the window.
You have overfilled it with oil mate when you dip the oil you are to screw the dip stick in then unscrew it and take a look I had one of those mine was a h model I still have the original owners Manuel for it you will find if you put a performance pipe on them they go along better,years ago you could buy a super trap ,down here in Australia we had a firm that made Peter Allen power pipes I ran them on all of my bike the performance from these pipes were good plus the some they made cheers tony
the carb needs rebuilt. soaking it in the ultrasonic cleaner makes it shiny, but all the ports still need cleaned out , and the accelerator pump needs the diaphragm replaced..
There is a decompressor.little window in the valve cover that indicates when the engine is in the start position.
Obviously knows how to use TH-cam but has no idea how to use google to look at how to start these or what to look for 🤣
Xtz just like sr500 there's a sight glass on the top that tells you when your on TDC then you give it all you got Give It To Nuts show crank right over if your carburetor is good you going to clean them accelerator pumps so should have enough to turn fire up also there's a drain plug in the front by the tire that does more oil drain man love these bikes