You're the man, Mike. I watched your videos to remind me of how I used to work with my dad around the house when I was a kid. He definitely had the basics, but your ratio and tips to pre-wet very much helped me when I parged my basement walls last year. Allowed me to do the work while thinking of my dad. Thank you!
Mike, I've been watching your videos for some time now. I wanted to take a minute to thank you. Just as an apprentice helping a journeyman and learning along the way, I used that approach watching your videos. And I'm nowhere near as good as you, but you've taught me well enough to do great work for people who need the help. Thanks! Side note: I also do plaster refinishing, Frequently fixing the ugly done by others attempting repair work over 50 years... And when I'm doing sidewalks, I use a brush to make a similar pattern like I use on plaster and it turns out pretty darn fancy looking.
Hi, the instructions on the bag are clear, add water and mix thoroughly " in my opinion dry pours are substandard, unprofessional, amateur and people preach this stuff have no experience and are misleading the public, watch part 2, thanks Mike
You didn't screed or mist and shower per their directions. The dry pur worked great gor a small patio in front of my shed. You should keep an open mind and do a fair comparison using their directions, not those on the bag.
Well, in fairness to the Cajun Couple, for example, they do not say to just drench the dry concrete like that - for the very reason the aggregate will surface. They demonstrate a light mist at first just to darken it slightly, then wait a while (one hour i think?) so a crust forms at the top. Then they follow up with a periodic soaking every couple hours or so. Specifically they note a specific amount of soaking over a 24 hour period (?) each hour depending on how thick the slab is. Their final product did not expose aggregate much, if any, as I recall. They even drove a vehicle on top of a 2 inch slab with no resultive cracking.
Hi Jerry, I seen this all before youtube ever came out, dry pour don't hold up especially in norther climates, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix thoroughly, its not rocket scientist, dry pour is amature, substandard cheap and unprofessional, it probably takes less time to mix and pour it the right way, if you want to continue on I suggest you call up quikrete and have them change the directions on the bag to suit your cause, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck - I wasn't speculating on whether dry poor is better or worse than traditional "wet" pour, only that you did not perform it according to their method - while "demonstrating" their method is no good. That's all. Your last statement there really exudes your frustration, as I do not have a "cause."
I get what you are saying Jerry. I think it really comes down to application. Is someone going to dry pour a driveway? Probably not but for a 4X4 slab? Why not.
@David_Lawrence_H hi David, the directions on the bag says " add water and mix thoroughly " anything else is substandard. It's easier to mix it and do it right, thanks Mike
Mike it would be great to see you really do the dry pour correctly - slightly overfill mold, screed a couple times until there are zero rocks on surface, very lightly pass a dry paint roller over top, use the corner edge tool, while it's dry, then mist and DON"T TOUCH, remist, wait, repeat, and wait at least a couple weeks before smash testing.
Hi Scott, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and .mix "thoroughly" everyone agrees dry pours are substandard and will not hold up in our weather. So why would I fo that? I am coming out with part to to take the mystery out of concrete, thanks mike
@Kms050794 hi, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix "thoroughly" why do anything substandard, I will be doing part 2, to help take the mystery out of concrete, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Amazing, not only did you make a clearly substandard video but your generic copy paste reply in the comments is also substandard. :) best of luck with your channel.
Mike, your videos are such a great resource for a novice like me. I'm trying my hardest to get the smoothest finish on my small concrete tiles, and your videos have been a great aid in that quest. Thanks!
Mike, you never hesitate to put a smile on my face, while being super informative. Thanks for the video. This definitely is a fad that will hopefully fade out soon. Just mix it!! I loved the skit.
A few comments here. First, I recognize your lifetime of experience with concrete and understand you are an expert in the field. However, your comparison test had some flaws. You did not follow the exact steps that were shown in the CCL TH-cam videos. For one, you did not screed with a 2X4, you used a hand tool. Proper screeding will push the rocks under the surface, just like you did with the wet pour. 2nd, you did not follow the watering steps as shown by CCL. They lay out a very specific watering schedule. Overwatering at the beginning will definitely show more aggregate at the surface. All that said, I just completed a 10X22 back patio using the dry pour method. I did it in two different sections and while I did not do a perfect job, I am very pleased with how it turned out. I would never have considered doing that job myself with a wet pour as I consider that kind of job too much for me to handle. When I saw the dry pour method, I felt confident that I could handle a job of that size. - You mentioned that winters could have some damaging effects on the slab, and I guess I'll just have to wait and see. Thanks!
Hi, you said it right most people are afraid to do a wet pour, I am going to do a part 2 to this video I try to show people how not to be afraid, dry pours no matter how you do it is substandard, I give you credit for trying so when I get around to it I will do part 2, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks for the reply! Just to clarify, I was not afraid of doing a wet pour concrete job, I have done many in the past, they where just much smaller jobs. Given the size of this job, and the 80 bags I would have had to mix in a timely matter, I did not think I physically could work at a fast enough pace to get the job done. I’m banking on the fact that, since this patio will only have walking traffic, it will hold up just fine. We’ll see! -Thanks Again!
Good to know. but it is too late! I already pour 165 sq/ft dry concrete I used paint roller, and the rocks are not showing, also you put too much labor for the we pour concert. all you did for the dry is spray it with water.
Thanks Mike. I was considering doing a dry pour for a shed foundation until I watched your video. Trying to do things the right way and I have really learned a lot from your channel. Cheers 🍻
Just about everybody on TH-cam how-to videos is either trying to sell the idea of accomplishing something the “easy way,” or with “no hard work involved,” or “amazingly easy.” And 98% of the lazy people who suck this stuff up and constantly search for ways to “change their life” are delusional. Most viewers never go out and actually do the stuff they watch, they just enjoy watching, so the validity of the “expert’s” claim don’t really mean anything. It doesn’t matter whether you’re talking about masonry work, exercise, gardening, whatever. Basically, most human beings are lazy and possess little common sense. This channel, however, is a breath of fresh air and common sense and I’ve learned a tremendous amount from it. So thanks once again to Mike and the MH School of Hard Knocks. Doing things the appropriate way sometimes involves a little more effort, but Mike’s shared experience makes it as straightforward as possible - and the results are great.
Regarding the riprap style concrete bag wall in Florida, the bags are not just set, they are compacted and rebar is driven through them. They also should not be perfectly vertical. Each successive layer should be offset slightly so that when the bags are compacted a lip is formed that helps lock them in place. You do occasionally have a bag that will crack. It happens immediately, not overtime. As best I can tell it just happens because the dry powder can form a crack. I did one on my property about fifty feet long and 5ft more than 10 years ago. One of the bags did crack pretty much immediately. That's the only problem I had with it. And like any retaining wall, drainage matters. A few inches of crushed stone seems to be enough.
@@MikeHaduck Good video, I like how you opened with the 3 types of retaining walls and closed with no right or wrong way, and precedent. Appreciate you Mike, you have a very good channel with valuable content.
Thanks Mike. I assumed the dry pour method was possibly easier, (no hand mixing) but would result in a crappy finish. I've done dry for post. Many years ago i got caught out pouring a bunch of pump pads for an irrigation project. 100+ degrees, very dry and pads were over many miles distance. I learned the hard way and had to go back and jack hammer half of them out and repour them.
You seem to have a bad attitude to me. No it is not going to look like wet set. And someone with your years of experience. But for the uses I’ve seen it works great. And yes if I paid you to do the job I have higher expectations.
Hi Mark, I am going to eventually come out with part 2, and give everyone some common sense alternatives, but people got to see what the truth is, thanks Mike
Great job Mike. I only do dry mix for fence posts or sometimes when placing steel UC posts at the base about 3-5 inches worth on 2.8m posts which are hard to steer by hand, for alignment of base, followed by wet mix.
I agree with this strategy. 1. You are only stabilizing the vertical post and 2. The concrete draws the water from the surrounding dirt or the inevitable rain that comes immediately following your hard day of work. Instead of a soupy mix you get a fairly stable easy to remove if needed mix. Perfect for making slight adjustments when you off by a half an inch or the cheap ass 4×4 bows on you. 3. another trick is place a flat rock at the bottom of your hole. This provides greater surface area for the post to sit on. 4. Finally, put nails or screws in the bottom of the post and there will be no twisting or wobble ever in the post. There is more to setting posts than most people think!
Sean, I would reconsider who is doing it wrong, the instructions on the bag are clear, add water and mix "thoroughly," I suggest you watch part 2, my opinion is dry pours are substandard, unprofessional and misleading, it preached by no experience amateurs, it takes less time to do it correctly, thanks Mike
I was taught how to mix and pour concrete by my late grandfather. We mixed it wet like you are supposed to do. A small pad that we poured in the late 1970's still looks great. I can't imagine doing a dry pour.
That was awesome! Ive been painting more than half my life and Im 50 now. People are always looking for shortcuts! I always say, if there was an easier way to do it, Id be doing it! Wise up people! Always look to a professional to get the best job. There is always an order to get the best job in an efficient manner. To do it "the right way" usually takes thought and hard work. Slow down when in a hurry, and when you speak truth and people refuse to believe, those are fighting words where I come from!!🤣🤣🤣 Thank you for the video for Im about to pour some crete for my sliding gate. Great to hear from someone who knows what they are talking about!
Just finished pouring me my pad and runner, I guess you call it for my electric sliding gate. Did the old fashioned way. I think I did good! Put plastic over it and calling it a night!😴🙂
Quick question, to make a smooth finish, when is the best time to use that machine with blades on it. Spins like a helicopter. Pardon me for not knowing its name, for I am just a painter. Thanks
Hi Pete, every situation is diffrent, but I usually wait till I could walk on it without sinking , it's one of those things that you need experience with, thanks Mike
Sorry, Mike, but you did the dry pour incorrectly. 1. For wet or dry pour, add extra portland cement to the concrete, and mix thoroughly. (I add two cups per bag.) 2. Spread and level the dry pour mix. 3. Rap the sides of the forms and add more dry concrete as needed. 4. Screed the dry concrete with a 2x4; do multiple passes as needed to make sure no rocks are showing. I've seen many TH-camrs blow this step. 5. Carefully edge the concrete along the forms. 6. Using a 3/8-inch nap roller on a six-foot poll, run the roller over the surface of the concrete until the surface is flat and smooth. Use only the weight of the roller. Many TH-camrs skip this step. 7. For a 3.5- to 4.0-inch slab, follow the hydration scheme below using a garden hose and a nozzle with a mist and shower setting; do not use a hand pump sprayer: a) Mist for 30 to 60 seconds and wait one full hour. Mist until the surface turns dark; do not over or under water. If too much water is used, portland cement on the surface can be washed away, weakening the surface. b) Mist for 30 to 60 seconds and wait one full hour. Mist until the surface turns dark; do not over or under water. If too much water is used, portland cement on the surface can be washed away, weakening the surface. c) Light shower for 30 seconds (shower setting) and wait one full hour. Light shower until the surface turns dark; do not over or under water. If too much water is used, portland cement on the surface can be washed away, weakening the surface. d) One hour later, repeat step c. e) One hour later, repeat step c. f) One hour later, repeat step c. g) One hour later, repeat step c. h) One hour later, repeat step c. i) One hour later, repeat step c. j) One hour later, repeat step c. 8. Carefully remove forms 48 hours after last watering. For more information, see Cajun County Livin' on TH-cam. Do not refer to any other TH-cam channel about how to do a dry pour.
Hi Chess, I seen this all before youtube came around. It's just another go around from a different angle, to me it's all hype, smoke and mirrors from the newbies with no experience, the directions say add water and mix throughly, but don't listen to me, I been doing it 50 years and I cant take liabilty for that kind of work, keep listen to them, I hope it works out for you, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I'm currently doing a dry pour for a crawlspace measuring 1,200 square feet. Using the directions listed in my first post, I did an 80 x 84 x 2-inch section, which required eighteen 60-pound bags of Quikcrete. The pour turned out fine with none of the issues you encountered. The project will require 450 60-pound bags. There is no way I can hand mix that amount in a wheelbarrow; at 72, I'm now only able to hand mix 20 bags a day. Also, there is no easy way to pump the concrete into the crawlspace using a ReadyMix truck. I believe the dry pour method is fine for foot-traffic loads for various projects in climates that don't have frequent and severe freeze-thaw cycles. I'm not sure how the dry pour method might work on sandy soil. One might have to lay down several inches of finely crushed gravel first before doing the dry pour. I would never use dry pour for slabs greater than 3.5 inches, nor would I use it for garage slabs, driveways, city sidewalks, house foundations, piers, fence posts, or high-quality patios. For anything else, why not? For the projects listed, I wouldn't use bagged concrete either; instead, I would call a reputable concrete contractor for those jobs, just like I would hire professional help to replace my roof or paint my two-story house.
Hi Chris, , we would lay the plastic down as a vapor barrier, use shoots and wheelbarrows, wet it a little more for inside and give it a proper finish as the instructions on the bag stated, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck i'm not saying you should do this for anything that is going to have more than foot traffic on it, but why didn't you screed the dry pour? if you're going to compare the methods, and say the one way is the "lazy cheap way of doing it", why didn't you at least do it correctly? you didn't screed it, and you didn't water it as many times, or in the same way as they suggest you do it. Seems unreasonable to do it completely differently to how they suggest then say man this is terrible. of course it is. my first dry pour doesn't look nearly as cheap or bad as your example. (again, i wouldn't do this for anything that was weight bearing .... but it's way easier than mixing for small projects that aren't weight bearing)
@@derekclark5658 hi Deric, the directions on the bag say add water and mix thoroughly, it not rocket science, you can call up quikrete and tell them change the directions on the bag if you want, dry pour concrete is a joke, I seen it before, it won't hold up in our winters and it takes just as much time to learn to do it right, but the amateur newbies don't want to hear it, thanks Mike
Hey Mike, in response to the comments about, "That is what the instructions say to do." I have been cooking foods in my air fryer for the last couple of years that don't have any instructions for doing so. Most of them turned out pretty good! I have recently looked at those same products, and now they have instructions for the air fryer. Just because the bags of concrete don't have instructions for doing a dry application, doesn't mean it can't be done and done well. You didn't do the process exactly as I have seen done by people that have completed this dry concrete process several times and even applied beautiful patterns to the top. I don't know about all of the youtubers, but the Louisiana couple tell everyone that they live in a warm climate and they have not idea how the concrete will perform where there are harsh winters.
Hi angle, I think it's common sense, you don't put pancake batter in a pan , pour milk or water on top and then put it on the grill, you got to mix it first, these diyers have no experience in concrete ripping out or pouring professional so they do a substandard thing and expect everyone believing they are experts, thanks. Mike
This video is awesome. It looks like for commercial applications dry pour doesn't make much sense at all. Dry pour sounds likes its best in areas for the average home owner in dryer climate with little to no winter.
So what is two bags of readymix and one shovel of portland cement? As in the pure stuff. Its a very fine powder and i did that because i had no faith the concrete would be strong enough. I was making preformed concrete sidewalk with stainless nuts welded to rebar in the middle. It was an inch and a half thick and i picked them up with a 2615 Mahindra tractor to place them. Just screw an ibolt through the two stainless nuts before pouring the concrete into the form. Then hook the chain through the ibolt a week later and pick it up. None of it ever cracked later.
When I was little, my dad helped the local municipality build a walkway through a portion of marsh by placing whole bags of concrete in place and just stacking them. It ended up being two bags wide at the top, with the bags going along the length of the path. I'm not sure how wide the base was, but I know they drove round fence posts into the mud under the first layer. It has been 30+ years, and other than algae growing on it, the walkway looks nearly brand new. This technique can be used if you know what you are doing. You know wet pour concrete very well, but down't know dry pour. As for putting down dry concrete in a humid environment, you can get a much stronger product than a wet mix. That's why slump is so important. A low slump means less water taking up space within the concrete. This does make it harder to work, so some contractors will go for a higher slump. Assuming just water and not the polymer additives available, the low slump with be a higher PSI than the low slump, but will take longer to cure. As the concrete cures, the water reacts and evaporates. This leaves microscopic voids in the concrete. These voids decrease the strength of the concrete. To do a successful dry slab, you need a few things in mind different than with a normal pour. First, you must be willing to wait for the concrete to be ready in weeks rather than days. Second, the surface finish is not turn key. This is where you get out the floor grinders and polishers to give a finish that proudly shows off the aggregate in the concrete. A side effect of showing aggregate rather than a grey surface is the floor will be much more wear resistant and produce less dust. When laying down the concrete mix, it can't be vibrated slightly to compact it. It must be compacted like a crushed limestone road bed, with lifts of 1-2 inches. Each lift needs 3 cycles of compaction with a light, medium, and heavy compaction. If you try to hit a freshly spread dry mix with heavy compaction, it's just going to run out of the way. Give a very light mist of water before, between, and after compaction to help with dust and unwanted movement. Finish the slab about 1/8" to 1/4" high so you have sufficient material to grind flat and polish.
Hi James, the instructions on the bag are clear. Add water and mix "thoroughly" with my years of experience I can tell bad from good concrete and my opinion dry pours are substandard and unprofessional, I can't preach anything that I believe is the wrong way, but if they change the directions on the bag let me know, thanks Mike
@jimborichardson3131 hi Jim, watch part 2. , if you don't get it by then ,I would callup the manufacturer and tell them to change the directions, thanks Mike
Come on ... people are still "debating" this ? Like you do not know that concrete is good only wet and well mixed ?????? What are you ?? Dumb ? How do you think they get the concrete to full strength in buildings and skyscrapers ? by "misting" ? drypour????😀😀😀😀😀
I respect Mike's plus years of experience, but wish you had did the dry pour similar to "Cajun country living" video shown and then given your opinion. Wet pour concrete has been around for years and it's not going away. I would use the dry pour for lite weight projects like garden boarders, stepping stones etc..
Hi Arline, I seen this all before youtube ever started, it's just the wheel going around again and diffrent angle, don't be surprised that after a few winters you won't be shoveling in the back of your truck to get rid of it, thanks Mike
I agree. He didn't do it the way others who have successfully done dry pour have done it. I can't consider this a valid comparison since the dry pour was done incorrectly.
I poured a slab of cement put gravel down. Then I put rebar in checker pattern and chicken wire. Then pour more cement. We bought a used cement mixer from the hardware store. We followed instructions then a straight board and another to make a t shape to wiggle and smooth our cement so far so good. In Wisconsin 6 inches thick i didn't mean it to b so thick. Have a ford probe on it
Hi DADADA, I'm retired, not a concrete contractor anymore, with my experience I am trying to tell people the truth, it's amature, unprofessional, cheap,and substandard, the directions say add water and mix thoroughly, but the newbies don't want to hear it they want to half ass it all, my opinion, thanks Mike
I've heard that concrete hardens more underwater so is more water better? Is there such a thing as too much water? Can you submerge your concrete for the first 29 days and get a stronger hardness?
@@troywhite6039 hi Troy, everything depends on what you are doing, I will be coming out with part 2 to help take the mystery out of concrete, thanks Mike
The reason the retaining wall bags were crumbling is because there is no steel in them. If you wet mixed concrete and poured it in the shape of those bags with no steel, they would crumble the same way.
Hi, steel rust and expands and will break all cement apart eventually, anybody using bags and not stone should realize it is a temporary fix, thanks Mike
There’s a saying back in the old days many things were built better, this is a great example. It shows how experience is extremely valuable. I take your word with all your years of working with cement. Great video and very good points. Nowadays we want everything faster and we want it now…. Also, in defense of the Cajun couple they did say dry pour cement was for light traffic not for structural support on big projects .
Sir, with all due respect to you being a Concrete Mason, I understand your lack of trust., however, no one ever recommended dry pour for a driveway, or a foundation for a house. You didn’t do the technique as they described with copious screeding, or proper watering because you wanted to insure failure. You bet, pouring wet concrete is stronger, for but if you’re dry pouring for a patio or a sidewalk, I call dry pouring for the win. Try watching more videos . I swear I’m looking for the aggregate-just not seeing it. Not the way THEY recommend it be done, anyhow.
Hi David. The instructions on the bag are clear, add water and mix "thoroughly" i watched these videos and dont see anybody with any experience who knows what they are doing, my opinion dry pours are substandard and unprofessional, I tore enough bad concrete out in my life to know, I can't preach a substandard way of doing things, I will be coming out with part 2 to help take the mystery out of concrete, thanks mike
You know you could at least try to make it not biased. Couple of things that would help is 1 everyone and anyone says this is for HOMEOWNERS trying to do diy projects. Not to do for a custom. 2 fun y how you do the correct steps for wet pour but not on the dry pour. Seem very uneducated on dry pour which isn't surprising as it would cost your industry so much money if it were to become a viable option for home owners. 1 it takes dry pour much longer to get to the psi rating. 2 you can 100% get a clean finish if you do it the correct way (you know kinda like you did with the wet pour). And 3 for small projects as a slab for a shed, walk way etc. This is a very viable option vs wet pour as long as you have the time. We get it you have been in the industry for a long time so you are trying to protect the industry. If you actually cared to make a unbiased video you would have taken the time to actually watch the successful videos people have had. Smh everyone please go watch how people actually dry pour to see how he purposely made it look like you can't get a nice finish and a strong product. Interesting part of your video however was when you broke each piece the the wet pour was filled with tons of air pockets vs the dry pour. Nice try, just too biased for me, thumbs down all the way.
Hi Chris, you learn more ripping out old concrete then you will ever learn pouring new concrete. Because you learn about the mistakes, I did my test, for me and the audience, my opinion is I would never put my name on any dry pour concrete project, it is nothing but a amateur cheap shortcut substandard way of doing things and I don't see anybody preaching it that has any experience in concrete at all, Go ahead and fo it all you want but don't blame me when it comes back and bites you, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I plan too, doing a 24x17 stamped patio dry pour. I of course will actually be doing the correct steps like everyone else that has had success did to get the smooth finish and success they have had. Imo people who are doing it aren't looking for it to last 30 years, they are looking for it to last a decent amount of time and not pay these insane prices. If you get 30 years from a wet pour and can get 15 years from a dry pour but it Costs $1,500 for a dry pour and $8,000 for a wet pour at some point it becomes a no brainer. Dry pour is for amateurs and is said to be for amateurs, there are others who have time in the concrete field and have done the correct steps and said it is 100% a possible option for the average home owner to save thousands. You just clearly didn't look up videos to do it the right way (which I get, God forbid you have a dry pour actually look nice and come out the correct way). I just hate videos of biased people who don't even try to do things to give it a fair chance. The couple of videos i have seen have stupid tests that no one logically is going to be doing to their concrete days after. Who is going to be taking a sledge hammer to their new patio?!?! No one 🙄. I have literally yet to se a single video where anyone is pushing professional companies do this so I would love to see the videos you have to make you think people would do this for a customer (I mean again a person trying to take the right steps could get a smooth finish but still). You act like people are trying to have this over wet pour, again clearly not watching videos or having knowledge of the videos out there. Maybe try doing some research on it, watch some of the successful videos, and then give it a fair shot like some others have and you can maybe be suprised at how viable of an option it is for a standard home owner not looking to pay your profession several thousands for a simple job. I just think it's funny how you and all your concrete friends are all in such a deep panic your line of work could be so easily devalued and take your weekend jobs away from people doing it themselves instead of paying you all thousands. Fyi a 12x12 stamped patio in my area is going for $4800, I will have roughly $1800 into the stamps, dye, Sealing and product for my 24x17.....yea see how that is a no brianer? I could tear it out and redo it 4 times for the price your field would charge for it to be done once. I did a 2x2 test pad (the right way) and got it perfectly smooth, then stamped it and it looked great!
Hi Chris, my opinion is do what you want, it's not my house, and if you can live with it go ahead, but I can't preach sub quality work to my audience, I would take the time and learn to do it the way professionals do., I think dry pour concrete is all hype and a con job, I know what bad concrete is because I took a lot of it out and replaced it in my career, you don't see the highway dept. Curbs, skyscrapers, swimming pools, city sidewalks being made out of dry concrete,that's why they have testing labs, and I wouldnt want a lawsuit against me, just giving you my opinion from over 50 years of experience, thanks. MIKE
@@MikeHaduck I have no allusions that dry pour will take over the concrete industry. It is simply a way for home owners to get an acceptable product without having to apprentice for 12 years to learn the ins and outs of surface finishing and strength. As for strength, I had a bag go hard in my garage a few years ago. For grins I broke it open. The stones definitely were embedded and broke through when I hammered it. It was interesting that your stones did not break in the dry pour. There's a lot we have to learn with the dry approach. The Sackrete and other bagged concrete companies have a LOT to gain by working up a method for dry pour that works. Even if it works temporarily, they will sell concrete again to those same individuals who bought the first time.
@@-Clandestine- water is pretty readily available, however the knowledge of finishing concrete isn't. Dry pour 100% you can finish it. If you read my comment I did a 2x2 stamped pad. It came our pretty nice! I screeded it (unlike mike) then used the paint roller and then used the stamp, followed the misting/watering steps and it came out really well (and smooth not all sandy like you are claiming). I have indeed done this which is why I am pointing out how biased he is when he isn't even doing the dry pour correctly. He doesn't have the knowledge to do a nice finish on dry pour which is okay, but simply watching how people are doing it before would have done that if he actually wanted to see and do it correctly....which he doesn't. Lots of videos out there of people have success and NICE FINISHES but you all are right, must not be possible 🙄. Look it up and watch some of the videos. Why would someone wet pour a slab and try to hurry and finish it making a huge mess because they don't know what they are doing vs teaching themselves with dry pour that they have 20x the amount of time to work with it. It's really a no brainer. Now if we are talking a driveway or something that will see some serious weight especially soon after completion then it's a different story. You all can argue it all you want but it 100% has its place and yall seem very bothered that it does. But we will see, we will see how my patio turns out but guess what worst case? I tear it out and redo it and still save thousands and thousands of dollars lol
Yeah, I watched a video not to long ago where this couple were building their own house, and they did the dry pour. While I was watching it, I thought, "I wonder what Mike would say about this method?" Now I know. Well, take it easy.
I am SO glad I took the time to watch this Mike! I am going to attempt a slab - about 3.5’ x 3.5’. Was excited to notice a video title about dry pouring cement. Then I noticed this one of yours right below it. Decided to go straight to yours first. I’ve watched a lot of your videos and know that you know the right way to do concrete. So thankful for your videos/teaching! I’ll be doing my slab the right way 🙂
Wanna know what I think? I think you hate the dry pour method. From the off, your distaste of it comes across in the tone of your voice, your body language, everything. You based your video as "from your angle", yet you completely ignored the method that the other videos used and totally rushed it. The finish they got on theirs was way better than yours. You didn't leave it to cure long enough. You put no effort into it, because you wanted it to fail. You wanted it to fail because had it stood up similarly to the wet pour method, you'd have to admit that you and your father have been shown an easier, cheaper and less labour intensive method than what you have been using for years, and you hate that. From a psychological perspective, I get that. I don't buy that you used the same force on the two tests, and on the scratch test you can clearly see them both scratching. I don't feel your tests were necessarily fair in a comparitive way. I mean no disrespect by any of this, this is just what I see. From the evidence I have seen, dry pour gives the same result as wet pour, as long as it is given the correct water treatment and as long as it is reenforced correctly. Original vids: th-cam.com/video/GC0j2Ey5NNk/w-d-xo.html - Cajun couple th-cam.com/video/CLhz4xoHbT8/w-d-xo.html - Michael builds th-cam.com/video/pJNKGWbi_Wg/w-d-xo.html - Michael builds 30 day test
Hi, first of all I seen all those videos before I did mine and I had tons of request to give my opinion. I tore out enough bad concrete over the last 50 years to know what I am looking at, my opinion is dry pours are substandard, unprofessional, chezzy ,amateur, and misleading, but if you want to start your own drypour concrete business I would love to see how long you last, send me the links of "YOUR" video so I can comment, also watch part 2, I would like to get your opinion on that, thanks Mike
I think you added too much water too fast to the dry pour. Adding too much water makes for weak concrete when you mix it so it should be the same for the dry pour. I think Cajun Country Livin' started the whole dry pour trend on youtube. Maybe follow their process as close as possible first before judging dry pour as being bad. Almost no one seems to follow their process especially when they very lightly mist it the first time and wait and hour. Watch their video where they complete their garden patio...not perfect but their finish looks pretty good and doesn't show the rocks at the surface like in yours.
Hi Mark, I think dry concrete is a joke, unprofessional, shoddy, cheap, smoke & mirrors, a big lie, and the wrong way, with all my years of experience why would I even consider it. thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Sounds like you had made up your mind before you started and just had an agenda to prove it. Is dry pour the best way for everyone and every job? Of course not and they make that clear in their videos. You say it's bad for 98% of jobs but their results would indicate otherwise IMO. I wouldn't think of it for say a 30' x 40' garage. But wouldn't hesitate to try it for a 8x8' pad for a shed.
@Tom Tillman hi Tom, my opinion is it issubstandard and for amatures, no matter how you look at it, I would never put my name on a dry pour concrete job, thanks Mike
I recently did a small dry pour pad to support/keep dry a storage shed for yard tools. Instead of filling the forms to top with concrete mix I leveled it roughly 1-2 inch from the top set my rebar and then filled/added quick set mortar repair mix to the top. Secreted and added my finish. Found this to give me a more satisfying finish experience eliminating rocks coming through. Did I still have that sand finish yes but it was consistent and level with no rocks showing. Is this as strong as a proper pour no way no how! Maybe half as strong to 3/4 as strong. Would I ever do this for a driveway or for anyone professional absolutely not! But for these light traffic areas basic needs it is incredibly efficient and effective. It is not meant for large jobs like driveways or large patio.
Hi Wad, the directions on the bag say add water and mix thoroughly, it's just as easy and probably less time to do it the right way, I can't figure out why everyone wants to take short cuts, I wish you well, thanks Mike
I would be very leery of trying to dry pour anything that held weight at all. I dont mean to pile on or criticize at all, props to you for tackling a project. Unfortunately the rebar will do very little in that application because it has nothing to bond to. Any guess on your ultimate compressive strength would just be my opinion, I would be shocked however if you broke over 1500 psi, about half or a third of a well designed standard concrete mix. The psi again is just an educated guess. Hopefully should not be a safety issue for your shed, depending on the weight of it. Again, not piling on, just hoping to spread a little bit of knowledge and wish you all the best with your project.
I wouldn't accept either job. The finished "mixed" concrete has a poor finish job. Should have just poured it, screed it, troweled it and put a broom finish on it after letting it set for a couple hours.
Very thorough and informative. Answers my question about this technique for where I live. I'm roughly on the same latitude but farther West of your test location. I have seen and been intrigued with the dry pour concept but I had doubts about it for most applications in the Northern climates where we are subject to repeated freeze thaw cycles. Thank you for the very in-depth analysis and the time you spent on the experiment.
@@MikeHaduck I would also not want to trust that the dry content in the bag product is properly homogenized..... all the portland cement may be at one end of the bag.... I do not get to see the Quikrete plant bagging operation..... so not only would hydration be uneven and inadequate, the content of the bag could be unevenly distributed.
Thanks, Mike, for your time and videos ....I am almost 100% done re-tuck pointing my old red brick foundation thanks to you and your videos "even some brick repair."
In fairness to the cajun couple haduck also did not skreed the dry pour like they did. I remember them saying to skreed the form so the aggregate would drop down under the powder. I think haduck probably did it that way on purpose to make it look loke adry pour should not be done. I for one don't trust his opinion.
Hi virginioah,,, the directions on the bag are clear, """add water and mix 'thoroughly' """" my opinion is any other way then manufactures directions are substandard , unprofessional and misleading, I suggest you watch part 2, thanks Mike
Thanks for all the education and incredibly informative vids on the mystery of masonry .... I've been subbed for years and It's still a fascinating concept. And of course, I hope you are jamming with friends and making music. Thanks Mike!
Awesome video Mike! I'm a big fan actually been studying your videos 🤙and taking in all your information 🤙 recently got into dry pour made a few videos did some research what are your thoughts on this process I actually learned from other people plus added a few steps of my own after researching to answer some problems of weakness and finish Dry pour (90 percent) topped With Rapid Set Mortar mix or repair mortar 6000psi (10 percent on top for smooth finish)(no rocks) Compacted with hand tamper/hit form with hammer to reduce air pockets Screeded Paint roller for smooth finish Burlap curing method for 30 days or longer for strength I'm in the middle of this process now both slabs seem strong I'm still burlap curing at the moment only about a week or two in but one slab is a little over a month old,, continuing to water daily would love to hear your thoughts, thank you
Hi Diy, anybody with experience will tell you , that you will learn more ripping out old concrete than pouring anything new, My experience tells me and my opinion is that it is a amateur, cheap, substandard, shortcut, misdirected attempt to sidestep the experience and testing of seasobed professionals. I haven't seen anybody who preaches this has had any experience in concrete work, I won't ever put my name on any dry pour concrete project and those who are doing it I feel it's going to come back and bite them, thanks Mike
Hi Mike, Will Mike , I am not a cement worker,or a cake maker,but you have a great point here , I see in cement mixing,and cake mixing you must follow instructions,This Dry pour remind me of the new dump cake that is being made today ,and it does not come out very well,just like the dry pour of cement,you are right not a professional job ,Need to follow instructions 🤗 love your videos Mike keep up teaching us the right way.🤗
Here is my take. When I do home owner concrete work I do not want to come back and dig it back up , ever. Dry pour is more back breaking work. It's a social media gimmick. Its a trap for the up and coming new home owners. Buyer beware. Thank you Mike.
You constantly saying that you don’t know why anyone would do it that way had me cracking up…and also earned my respect…and a new sub. Thank you for your dedication to doing a job right. Oh and the ending was the best! Loved it!
@bbaucom2 hi bb, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix "thoroughly" they do NOT say put in form and sprinkle water on top, my opinion is dry pours are substandard and unprofessional, and I can't misleading people with substandard work, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck You're proving my point. You did not go into this to show a fair comparison. You did not even go into this to show how much better we form concrete was over dry forming. You went into it with the intent to show that dry form concrete is just a bad idea. But for some jobs and some situations, if it is done right, it may be perfectly acceptable. But your biased approach never gives it a chance. So, from my perspective, your video is useless. It is, for sure, not applying scientific methods. It is just one man's opinion. You could have made that a two minute video.
Very informative. I'll stick with the ready-mix delivered wet concrete and not attempt the dry pour. I especially liked the ending comments by other professionals. It reminded me of the days when I worked as a hot tar roofer with other gentlemen who had worked that trade for decades and decades. Sometimes there is not a better way than the tried and proven methods that have worked for a century. Thank you for your post.
Just poured a pad for my front porch here n Port Murray NJ. Used 62, 80lb bags of Sakrete. My back still hurts. Also did about 6 pallets of dry lay wall using snapped Karney from WickiStone who I'm sure you know about. I'm 66 and still try to learn something new every day and learned a lot from you Mike, so thanks. Thanks for all your advice through the years. For the front porch, I have a 1/2" thick, flexible base on top of the concrete, ,then a leveling layer of sand, and dry laid porcelain tile on top. Honestly it looks too nice, like a kitchen floor, and I'm trying to find a 3/4" paver with a more outdoor, rustic look. Has to be 3/4" thick max and consistent thickness to lay on the pad. Most pavers are 1-1/4". Any advice or recommendations are appreciated.
When I was 13-16 years old, my dad would get a concrete delivery to his hardware store from the Sakrete distributor... no loading dock... they double parked in the street, and we hand-trucked every bag off... 20lb 40lb and 80lb sacks.... I was shouldering sacks almost my own weight, and I was a scrawny lil guy back then!
@@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 All that hard work finally catches up with you. I have mason and construction friends the same age as me and a lot of body parts, hips, knees, have been replaced. Luckily I was a software engineer, but a weekend warrior on construction parts and still holding up after 67 years
Yet another example of a "professional" not following the rudimentary instructions, getting an intentional bad result, and proclaiming that he knows better. The dry pour method isn't meant for professionals so there is no need to compare the two. But at the end of the day, your experiment loses credibility when you don't even do the method the correct way. I rarely see dry pour videos with as bad results as when the professionals "try their hand" at it, and show you that it just doesn't work. LoL
Hi Jay, the instructions on the bag say "add water and mix thoroughly " I see this all before youtube began. The newbies don't want to hear it, my professional opinion is dry pour is cheap. Amature, unprofessional and a con job , again read the instructions on the bag or call up the lab boys at quikrete and tell them their I structures are wrong. Thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck no one is talking about "following the instructions on the bag", Mike. No one is talking about going into business as a 'professional', and using this method. Your cosmetic result WAS a result of not doing it the way described. No, it isn't the same as a wet mix ... but then it isn't supposed to be. But you keep doing you.
Hi Jay, "Exactly", you are "NOT" following the instructions on the bag, so that's between you and all the lab and testing people, I am retired now and sometimes filling in when other contractors are short, but I think it only fair I give a honest opinion that it's substandard work, If you want to keep doing it that way, I wish you well, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I don't think anyone using the dry pour method is worried about the lab & testing folks. As for substandard work ... that is clearly what you did. It was a substandard job, like most other "professionals" who come on TH-cam in order to discredit the method. It isn't for everyone. But it's for someone.
I’m not surprised, I figured there was a catch to it in some way. I think there’s some applications where dry concreting probably works well and other projects where it fails
Hi, I will be doing a part 2 to take the mystery out of concrete and explain best I could how to do it simply and professionally without dry pours, thanks Mike
I truly enjoyed the ending to this video - especially the word from Honest Mike. The dry pour concrete videos have been on YT for ay least 2 years now and I have been waiting for a professional mason to respond. Thank you!
Perfect timing! I wouldn’t have dry poured the slab I am forming for an outdoor fireplace, but the rest of the tips regarding finishing etc are going to come in handy tomorrow. I poured footers two weeks ago and will pour my pad tomorrow. After that I have to start digging through the brick and stone laying videos again, as I form the fire box etc, then lay fire brick and flue. Going to finish with blue stone pulled from the face of library at Colgate University about 18 years ago when they re did their “Case Library”. I saw the blue stone in a coupl piles about a month ago, got that urge to finally use em up. I used Mike’s videos while building a pizza oven a few years ago, and now will use em for this project. Thanks Mike!
Great vid....i was an inspector for 20 years and Mike brought back memories on the job. Done hundreds of projects and i would question the 4000 psi ASTM rating. Cylinders or coring that stuff wouldnt pass. Thanks Mike.
You didn't do it the way others who were successful have done it on TH-cam. You didn't screed it which make the rocks go down. The first 2 coats of water are only supposed to be a light mist with and hour in between them. If you're going to do a valid comparison, you should do it correctly.
I’m a journeyman finisher and I just heard about dry pouring. I think the reason I never heard of it is because with misting of water only how is the mix going to bind together especially around rebar or chicken wire. I watched the video from that couple and I see no way a full size truck drove over a 1 1/2” slab. Even poured the right way I see it cracking. Sacking a slab or even a sidewalk I always added extra Portland, I still am iffy on quick Crete. To me it looked like more work dry pouring and the finish product wasn’t appealing even with some kind of rolling stamp they used on it
Hi, the directions on the bag are clear, "add water and mix thoroughly" I agree , dry pours are substandard, amateur, unprofessional and misleading, it just as easy as following the directions and doing it correctly, watch part 2 and let me know what you think, thanks Mike
ALMOST dry poured a slab for a 300 LB condenser in upstate N.Y., but then I caught your video just in time ! Thank you so much for taking the time to educate us non-professionals. As you said concrete for the south does not have to perform like concrete poured in the frozen north. Was very surprised that they simply stack bags of concrete in Florida & don't follow up to see how poorly it performs long term.
@@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 For a small condenser, yes, but this dual fan Mitsubishi is literally 5 ft. tall, 42" wide, sits on an 18" tall stand and weighs 300 lbs. I don't want to do this one a second time as we'll have to lift it into place with a lift !
Stacked bags perform very well in places like Florida, fifty years and better... But Florida doesn't have hard freezes or rocks, so there is no better option for retaining walls. You do not build on bags of concrete, you just need to keep the ground from slumping.
@vidard9863 hi, I am now living in Florida and every wall with stacked bags is falling apart, the got tons of coral rock, I can't figure out why they are not using something that can be reused??? Thanks Mike
Mike thanks so much for demonstrating exactly WHY dry pour is junk. Your videos have enabled me greatly. There's a lot of misinformation out there and you cut right through the crap!
I've watched a couple dry pour videos because they're suggested and the guys float it multiple times with wood to try and hide stones. I imagine this would still leave sand on top.
Dear Mr. Haduck! I just wanted to let you know how appreciative and thankful for you taking the time to allow us lay people into your world of concrete. Love your channel!
I love how every video for the last 10 years, Mike says "there's no one way to do concrete, every body does it different," but when he gets to dry pouring slabs he says, "that definitely ain't the way to do it!" 😅
I have been waiting specifically for your thoughts on dry pour since at least 2020. So many TH-camrs are treating it as nearly equal to adding water and mixing. I never believed them because I don't just believe any and everyone on the internet. You have taken the time to educate us. Thank you Sir!
I'm glad you made this comparison/ explanation video. I feel sorry for all those DIYers that are on the "dry pour" band wagon. Not only will they not be happy with the finish it'll only be a matter of time till they are sweeping up cracked chunks and tripping on their pads, especially if they are in a freezing weather climate. Basically, I think most people are drawn to the dry method because they are scared of mixing concrete and worried, they will run out of time to finish it properly. True time is critical, but it is actually your friend if the conditions and mix are right. And with most things practice makes perfect.
@reedera4 hi Reed, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix " thoroughly" any other way is substandard and unprofessional, my opinion, the bag don't say pour in form and spray water, I will be coming out with part 2, to take the mystery out of concrete, I can't support substandard or unprofessional work, thanks Mike
Dry pouring is not substandard. More and more people are doing dry pour on their own because it's easier and looks fantastic when done correctly, which you did not do. That's my point. YOU DID NOT DO IT CORRECTLY! If you watched the couple that basically invented dry pouring concrete you would know how to do it correctly. I guess the old saying that you can't teach an old dog new tricks is correct!
@reedera4 hi Reed there is no way to do dry pour properly, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix thoroughly, when the manufacturer changes the directions let me know, otherwise my opinion is that dry pour is a con job, thanks Mike
Great video Mike. I think this whole dry pour concrete fad is a sign of the times. Once you add water to concrete it turns into a ticking time bomb. People don’t want the stress of mixing concrete and having to muscle it into place and getting it into shape while it sets up. They rather take a shortcut for something with no longevity. Seems to be that way with many things these days. Thanks for the video!
More like they want something to do the job for under 200$ vs the same job for 2000$ or more......... it's just a place to let your chickens walk it's not a skyscraper.............
@John Dorian it don't cost no more to add water and mix it thoroughly, read the directions. Do you think those guys at the lab don't know what they are talking about? thanks Mike
@MikeHaduck for many, it's the physical labor of mixing & hauling the Wet stuff along with the $... people with limitations can manage a Dry Pour & feel a sense of accomplishment where they can't manage a Wet one. But maybe if you come up with a Wet Pour method for people with physical limitations, it'll catch on like wildfire... just remember, it's gotta be less labor intensive, & not time sensitive like the Wet stuff. People aren't so much looking for short cuts, but rather just something they can actually manage!
@@johndorian4078 There is one constant with "dry pour", the "dry pourer" always rationalizes the results, maybe because it's easier doing dry than wet, and acknowledging that dry point just ain't right would hurt their ego. It's sort of like being a true believer. It's sort of like a religion. It is sort of like not believing your lying eyes. There is no acknowledgment that dry pour is the sheeny way of doing concrete and the resulting finish and strength is substandard.
Hi Brian. The directions on the bag say. Add water and mix thoroughly, dry pour is a substandard , cheap, amature half ass way of doing things, I seen this all before youtube began, I would call up quikrete and have them change the directions. See what they say, thanks Mike
Would the aggregate of the dry sample settled down if a wood screed would have been used instead of a metal float? I saw the wood screed used on the wet method, but not during the dry method. Also, it's important to remember that the dry method will likely need more water applied to it. Think of concrete as if it's a sponge. It's not waterproof. Water will pass through it. As long as it has both time and water, the bonding will continue. A wood float is often used on wet concrete to work up a grout. I don't know if it would do that on dry concrete. I watched video on somebody doing that on the dry method and they said that screeding over and over would drive the aggregate below the surface and allow for the fines to come to the surface and from what I could tell by their video, that looked like what happened. I didn't see the rocks showing on their video. I would like to know what would happen if both samples would have been submerged in water, after about 6 hours. Would doing that have allowed the dry method to have gained all the water it needed to set properly? What if both of them would have been submerged in water overnight? I wonder what would happen. I'm also wondering if, when using the dry method, whether the concrete should be tamped. Would that help its strength and also, I wonder if that would help some of the aggregate to move below the surface. I'm wondering if tamping the dry would help with consolidation.
Hi Ray, the directions on the bag are clear. " add water and mix thoroughly " my opinion is dry pours are substandard and misleading, I did part 2 to take the mystery out of concrete, thanks Mike
You keep on saying you cant do the dry pour for a customer. I think you completely missed the point of dry pour. It's only for a diy setting where someone wants to do it themselves and save money. Nobody said dry pour was professional grade.
Hi reo, ,how are you saving money when you want to do your jobs half ass, read the directions on the bag and do it properly, I wouldn't listen to anyone who is not a concrete professional, watch part 2, thanks mike
Hi Mike. I see a lot of mixed comments condemning the comparison to another dry pour test. I think your conclusion is convincing enough to consider dry pouring a bad idea. Nice video.
Thanks for doing this video. Nice video to show the dry pour people. I would like to see a load test where it is loaded with weight until it fails and see which one holds the most weight. That would be a really telling video.
My front porch that I poured 30 years ago, one foot thick solid concrete air entrained from a concrete plant, has sunk two inches after many year on clay soil. I want to put ¾ inch porcelain tiles on it. I raised it two inches with this dry pour method being careful to make accurately level and not worrying too much about the finish since it will be covered with tiles. I let it in the form four days and keep wetting it every day for a good cure. It looks very dense and hard, the tiles will be set in a month, so at full cure. I think this type of use for dry pour is acceptable. The concrete will never be submitted to flexing strains or surface abrasion. MIKE, any comment on my experiment?
hey Mike if rocks are showing you gotta put a bit more then after edging it, the very LAST thing ya do is run a nappy paint roller over softly & it honestly looks AS GOOD as your wet concrete. Youre talking about Mike Day who also did it wrong.
Hi A, I seen this all before youtube started, read the directions on the bag, add water and mix thoroughly, it's not rocket science, dry pour is amature, substandard, cheap and unprofessional, it takes just as much time to do it right it don't hold up especially on northern winters, best thing you can do is call up quikrete and have them change the directions to suit your cause, thanks Mike
. The dry pour is quick, and a bit lazy. Everyone wanrs to do "work hacks" these days and some of them are cool , but is it Effective? Does it Endure ? Mike has been doing this longer than that 'Cajun Couple ' have been alive, trust experience and solid work ethic.
I assume it would be acceptable to use this dry pour concrete for post holes, since appearance is not a factor and it would break off easily t]when you need to replace the post
Mostly Mike it's homeowners and old guys like me dry pouring. However there is no way by yourself you can mix and pour a 10x9 slab. and when I poured the slab I didn't expect a good finish, but it will do what I wanted to do I'm only parking lawn mowers on it. I agree it's unprofessional but it only cost me $ 150
A big hell no! There are many good reasons why concrete has been poured wet forever. Concrete needs to be mixed to consolidate and it needs to be mixed. Pissing on dry mix will cause a chemical reaction to harden the mix, but that isn't real concrete. If you like the weathered look of 100 year old rotten concrete, then fill your boots and do a dry pour. If you want your slab strong with a smooth professional surface that won't crumble and spall, then you better mix concrete the right way. It looks like it is more work doing it the backwards way (dry pour) with sh!te results. Maybe some people want their slab to have more craters than the moon with continuous spalling and weaker concrete that will crack and crumble in no time. People, save yourself the grief and spend an hour learning the basics of what makes for good and bad concrete. Dry pours take the cake for mistakes that will ensure your concrete project will end with the worst appearance and shortest longevity. Concrete was made to be mixed and if it isn't it will be sh!t concrete and not perform as it should.
Hi C, I seen this all before youtube ever started, it's just the wheel going around again, my warning is watch out for the newbies. After a few winters you might be shoveling in your truck to get rid of it, thanks Mike
Most times, if you start out with your mind made up, thats where you arrive. Your obvious bias and improper application of the "dry pour method" gave the results you wanted. You obvious know how to pour concrete, i believe that, but be open minded. You just might learn somethin.
Hi Cee, I am trying to get you to see what's happening, The directions on the bag say, add water and mix "thoroughly" any other way from manufactures directions are sub standard, it's a con job in my opinion, I tore out enough bad concrete to see what's going on, I will be doing a part 2, thanks Mike
Mike, I am in mid Atlantic Pennsylvania. I am SOOOOOO glad I watched your video. I am collecting concrete and a 10x12 shed kit for my yard. I had been thinking I would do the dry pour cause its easier. Now..... NO. I am doing it right. Probably rent a mixer, and do it right. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your experience. Great video.
Hi Len, I don't know if they watched mine. The directions say add water and mix thoroughly, it takes just as much time to do it professionally, thanks Mike
Thanks for the video. As for the dry pour, and the rocks on the surface, I wonder if a guy could make a wire screen roller and roll it over the dry cement to force the rocks down before wetting it?
Hi, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix "thoroughly" in my opinion dry pours are substandard and unprofessional, I will be coming out with part 2 to help take the mystery out of concrete, thanks mike
You're the man, Mike. I watched your videos to remind me of how I used to work with my dad around the house when I was a kid. He definitely had the basics, but your ratio and tips to pre-wet very much helped me when I parged my basement walls last year. Allowed me to do the work while thinking of my dad. Thank you!
Thanks Pete, I appreciate hearing that, Mike
Mike, I've been watching your videos for some time now. I wanted to take a minute to thank you. Just as an apprentice helping a journeyman and learning along the way, I used that approach watching your videos. And I'm nowhere near as good as you, but you've taught me well enough to do great work for people who need the help. Thanks!
Side note: I also do plaster refinishing, Frequently fixing the ugly done by others attempting repair work over 50 years... And when I'm doing sidewalks, I use a brush to make a similar pattern like I use on plaster and it turns out pretty darn fancy looking.
Thanks, Mr. Fixit, I appreciate hearing that from a professional, mike
Keep watching videos from old school and new school. It will only make you better. Stay sharp, safe and healthy.
Didn't screed the dry pour and didn't appear to follow the watering instructions from the Cajun couple...not sure this is a fair comparison.
Hi, the instructions on the bag are clear, add water and mix thoroughly " in my opinion dry pours are substandard, unprofessional, amateur and people preach this stuff have no experience and are misleading the public, watch part 2, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduckwell said , I try to explain this every time I see a dry pour ! It really burns my ass that people think a dry poor is proper and good !!!
You didn't screed or mist and shower per their directions. The dry pur worked great gor a small patio in front of my shed. You should keep an open mind and do a fair comparison using their directions, not those on the bag.
Well, in fairness to the Cajun Couple, for example, they do not say to just drench the dry concrete like that - for the very reason the aggregate will surface. They demonstrate a light mist at first just to darken it slightly, then wait a while (one hour i think?) so a crust forms at the top. Then they follow up with a periodic soaking every couple hours or so. Specifically they note a specific amount of soaking over a 24 hour period (?) each hour depending on how thick the slab is. Their final product did not expose aggregate much, if any, as I recall. They even drove a vehicle on top of a 2 inch slab with no resultive cracking.
Hi Jerry, I seen this all before youtube ever came out, dry pour don't hold up especially in norther climates, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix thoroughly, its not rocket scientist, dry pour is amature, substandard cheap and unprofessional, it probably takes less time to mix and pour it the right way, if you want to continue on I suggest you call up quikrete and have them change the directions on the bag to suit your cause, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck - I wasn't speculating on whether dry poor is better or worse than traditional "wet" pour, only that you did not perform it according to their method - while "demonstrating" their method is no good. That's all. Your last statement there really exudes your frustration, as I do not have a "cause."
Hi Jerry. Maybe you should start performing it to my method and see if it don't come out better, thanks Mike
I get what you are saying Jerry. I think it really comes down to application. Is someone going to dry pour a driveway? Probably not but for a 4X4 slab? Why not.
@David_Lawrence_H hi David, the directions on the bag says " add water and mix thoroughly " anything else is substandard. It's easier to mix it and do it right, thanks Mike
Mike it would be great to see you really do the dry pour correctly - slightly overfill mold, screed a couple times until there are zero rocks on surface, very lightly pass a dry paint roller over top, use the corner edge tool, while it's dry, then mist and DON"T TOUCH, remist, wait, repeat, and wait at least a couple weeks before smash testing.
Hi Scott, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and .mix "thoroughly" everyone agrees dry pours are substandard and will not hold up in our weather. So why would I fo that? I am coming out with part to to take the mystery out of concrete, thanks mike
Agreed. This video was very disingenuous. Did not put any of the work in to make the method actually work.
@Kms050794 hi, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix "thoroughly" why do anything substandard, I will be doing part 2, to help take the mystery out of concrete, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Amazing, not only did you make a clearly substandard video but your generic copy paste reply in the comments is also substandard. :) best of luck with your channel.
@Kms050794 no worries, I don't want to mislead people with this dry pour stuff, it's best to be truthful, thanks Mike
Mike, your videos are such a great resource for a novice like me. I'm trying my hardest to get the smoothest finish on my small concrete tiles, and your videos have been a great aid in that quest. Thanks!
Thanks Ryan, Mike
You can't leave the rocks on the top. And several other mistakes. You can screw up dry pour as well as wet pour.
Hi Tom, I would never put my name on a dry pour, I consider it not much more than garbage, thanks Mike
Mike, you never hesitate to put a smile on my face, while being super informative. Thanks for the video. This definitely is a fad that will hopefully fade out soon. Just mix it!! I loved the skit.
Thanks Joe, Mike
A few comments here. First, I recognize your lifetime of experience with concrete and understand you are an expert in the field. However, your comparison test had some flaws. You did not follow the exact steps that were shown in the CCL TH-cam videos. For one, you did not screed with a 2X4, you used a hand tool. Proper screeding will push the rocks under the surface, just like you did with the wet pour. 2nd, you did not follow the watering steps as shown by CCL. They lay out a very specific watering schedule. Overwatering at the beginning will definitely show more aggregate at the surface. All that said, I just completed a 10X22 back patio using the dry pour method. I did it in two different sections and while I did not do a perfect job, I am very pleased with how it turned out. I would never have considered doing that job myself with a wet pour as I consider that kind of job too much for me to handle. When I saw the dry pour method, I felt confident that I could handle a job of that size. - You mentioned that winters could have some damaging effects on the slab, and I guess I'll just have to wait and see. Thanks!
Hi, you said it right most people are afraid to do a wet pour, I am going to do a part 2 to this video I try to show people how not to be afraid, dry pours no matter how you do it is substandard, I give you credit for trying so when I get around to it I will do part 2, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks for the reply! Just to clarify, I was not afraid of doing a wet pour concrete job, I have done many in the past, they where just much smaller jobs. Given the size of this job, and the 80 bags I would have had to mix in a timely matter, I did not think I physically could work at a fast enough pace to get the job done. I’m banking on the fact that, since this patio will only have walking traffic, it will hold up just fine. We’ll see! -Thanks Again!
Dry pour is a lazy DIY pandemic.
27:04 the Fresno broom is not happy 😅😅
Good to know. but it is too late! I already pour 165 sq/ft dry concrete I used paint roller, and the rocks are not showing, also you put too much labor for the we pour concert. all you did for the dry is spray it with water.
Hi kamai, as you can tell I could never put my name on that, if it worked for you great, but it would come back on me, thanks Mike
Thanks Mike. I was considering doing a dry pour for a shed foundation until I watched your video. Trying to do things the right way and I have really learned a lot from your channel. Cheers 🍻
Thanks George,, Mike
Just about everybody on TH-cam how-to videos is either trying to sell the idea of accomplishing something the “easy way,” or with “no hard work involved,” or “amazingly easy.” And 98% of the lazy people who suck this stuff up and constantly search for ways to “change their life” are delusional. Most viewers never go out and actually do the stuff they watch, they just enjoy watching, so the validity of the “expert’s” claim don’t really mean anything. It doesn’t matter whether you’re talking about masonry work, exercise, gardening, whatever. Basically, most human beings are lazy and possess little common sense. This channel, however, is a breath of fresh air and common sense and I’ve learned a tremendous amount from it. So thanks once again to Mike and the MH School of Hard Knocks. Doing things the appropriate way sometimes involves a little more effort, but Mike’s shared experience makes it as straightforward as possible - and the results are great.
Thanks Bill, I appreciate the kind words, Mike
Thank you for passing your knowledge onto us all! There's nothing like tips from an expert
Thanks Based, Mike
Ha! I said the same thing, should have read down a few more.
Regarding the riprap style concrete bag wall in Florida, the bags are not just set, they are compacted and rebar is driven through them. They also should not be perfectly vertical. Each successive layer should be offset slightly so that when the bags are compacted a lip is formed that helps lock them in place. You do occasionally have a bag that will crack. It happens immediately, not overtime. As best I can tell it just happens because the dry powder can form a crack. I did one on my property about fifty feet long and 5ft more than 10 years ago. One of the bags did crack pretty much immediately. That's the only problem I had with it. And like any retaining wall, drainage matters. A few inches of crushed stone seems to be enough.
Hi MxGuy, I got a video out called " retaining walls" yes or no, Mike haduck, I would be interested on what you think, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Good video, I like how you opened with the 3 types of retaining walls and closed with no right or wrong way, and precedent. Appreciate you Mike, you have a very good channel with valuable content.
Exactly. He used poor examples of concrete bag retaining walls. Typical union work mentality.
Thanks Mike. I assumed the dry pour method was possibly easier, (no hand mixing) but would result in a crappy finish. I've done dry for post. Many years ago i got caught out pouring a bunch of pump pads for an irrigation project. 100+ degrees, very dry and pads were over many miles distance. I learned the hard way and had to go back and jack hammer half of them out and repour them.
Thanks. I hear you, Mike
You seem to have a bad attitude to me. No it is not going to look like wet set. And someone with your years of experience. But for the uses I’ve seen it works great. And yes if I paid you to do the job I have higher expectations.
Hi Mark, I am going to eventually come out with part 2, and give everyone some common sense alternatives, but people got to see what the truth is, thanks Mike
Great job Mike. I only do dry mix for fence posts or sometimes when placing steel UC posts at the base about 3-5 inches worth on 2.8m posts which are hard to steer by hand, for alignment of base, followed by wet mix.
Hi Mister Hat, nothing wrong with that, thanks Mike
I agree with this strategy. 1. You are only stabilizing the vertical post and 2. The concrete draws the water from the surrounding dirt or the inevitable rain that comes immediately following your hard day of work. Instead of a soupy mix you get a fairly stable easy to remove if needed mix. Perfect for making slight adjustments when you off by a half an inch or the cheap ass 4×4 bows on you.
3. another trick is place a flat rock at the bottom of your hole. This provides greater surface area for the post to sit on.
4. Finally, put nails or screws in the bottom of the post and there will be no twisting or wobble ever in the post.
There is more to setting posts than most people think!
Thank you Mike for another lesson in common sense (which ain't all that common any more) Cheers from South Korea!
Thanks Hintern, Mike
Why do the "professionals" insist on doing this wrong. so they can make money. Lostv all credibility.
Sean, I would reconsider who is doing it wrong, the instructions on the bag are clear, add water and mix "thoroughly," I suggest you watch part 2, my opinion is dry pours are substandard, unprofessional and misleading, it preached by no experience amateurs, it takes less time to do it correctly, thanks Mike
I was taught how to mix and pour concrete by my late grandfather. We mixed it wet like you are supposed to do. A small pad that we poured in the late 1970's still looks great. I can't imagine doing a dry pour.
Hi harping, Mike
Dry pour is just another 'work hack' for lazy millennials.
That was awesome! Ive been painting more than half my life and Im 50 now. People are always looking for shortcuts! I always say, if there was an easier way to do it, Id be doing it! Wise up people! Always look to a professional to get the best job. There is always an order to get the best job in an efficient manner. To do it "the right way" usually takes thought and hard work. Slow down when in a hurry, and when you speak truth and people refuse to believe, those are fighting words where I come from!!🤣🤣🤣 Thank you for the video for Im about to pour some crete for my sliding gate. Great to hear from someone who knows what they are talking about!
Thanks Pete, Mike
Just finished pouring me my pad and runner, I guess you call it for my electric sliding gate. Did the old fashioned way. I think I did good! Put plastic over it and calling it a night!😴🙂
Good pete, you get better as you go, thanks Mike
Quick question, to make a smooth finish, when is the best time to use that machine with blades on it. Spins like a helicopter. Pardon me for not knowing its name, for I am just a painter. Thanks
Hi Pete, every situation is diffrent, but I usually wait till I could walk on it without sinking , it's one of those things that you need experience with, thanks Mike
Sorry, Mike, but you did the dry pour incorrectly.
1. For wet or dry pour, add extra portland cement to the concrete, and mix thoroughly. (I add two cups per bag.)
2. Spread and level the dry pour mix.
3. Rap the sides of the forms and add more dry concrete as needed.
4. Screed the dry concrete with a 2x4; do multiple passes as needed to make sure no rocks are showing. I've seen many TH-camrs blow this step.
5. Carefully edge the concrete along the forms.
6. Using a 3/8-inch nap roller on a six-foot poll, run the roller over the surface of the concrete until the surface is flat and smooth. Use only the weight of the roller. Many TH-camrs skip this step.
7. For a 3.5- to 4.0-inch slab, follow the hydration scheme below using a garden hose and a nozzle with a mist and shower setting; do not use a hand pump sprayer:
a) Mist for 30 to 60 seconds and wait one full hour. Mist until the surface turns dark; do not over or under water. If too much water is used, portland cement on the surface can be washed away, weakening the surface.
b) Mist for 30 to 60 seconds and wait one full hour. Mist until the surface turns dark; do not over or under water. If too much water is used, portland cement on the surface can be washed away, weakening the surface.
c) Light shower for 30 seconds (shower setting) and wait one full hour. Light shower until the surface turns dark; do not over or under water. If too much water is used, portland cement on the surface can be washed away, weakening the surface.
d) One hour later, repeat step c.
e) One hour later, repeat step c.
f) One hour later, repeat step c.
g) One hour later, repeat step c.
h) One hour later, repeat step c.
i) One hour later, repeat step c.
j) One hour later, repeat step c.
8. Carefully remove forms 48 hours after last watering.
For more information, see Cajun County Livin' on TH-cam. Do not refer to any other TH-cam channel about how to do a dry pour.
Hi Chess, I seen this all before youtube came around. It's just another go around from a different angle, to me it's all hype, smoke and mirrors from the newbies with no experience, the directions say add water and mix throughly, but don't listen to me, I been doing it 50 years and I cant take liabilty for that kind of work, keep listen to them, I hope it works out for you, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I'm currently doing a dry pour for a crawlspace measuring 1,200 square feet.
Using the directions listed in my first post, I did an 80 x 84 x 2-inch section, which required eighteen 60-pound bags of Quikcrete.
The pour turned out fine with none of the issues you encountered.
The project will require 450 60-pound bags. There is no way I can hand mix that amount in a wheelbarrow; at 72, I'm now only able to hand mix 20 bags a day. Also, there is no easy way to pump the concrete into the crawlspace using a ReadyMix truck.
I believe the dry pour method is fine for foot-traffic loads for various projects in climates that don't have frequent and severe freeze-thaw cycles.
I'm not sure how the dry pour method might work on sandy soil. One might have to lay down several inches of finely crushed gravel first before doing the dry pour.
I would never use dry pour for slabs greater than 3.5 inches, nor would I use it for garage slabs, driveways, city sidewalks, house foundations, piers, fence posts, or high-quality patios. For anything else, why not? For the projects listed, I wouldn't use bagged concrete either; instead, I would call a reputable concrete contractor for those jobs, just like I would hire professional help to replace my roof or paint my two-story house.
Hi Chris, , we would lay the plastic down as a vapor barrier, use shoots and wheelbarrows, wet it a little more for inside and give it a proper finish as the instructions on the bag stated, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck i'm not saying you should do this for anything that is going to have more than foot traffic on it, but why didn't you screed the dry pour? if you're going to compare the methods, and say the one way is the "lazy cheap way of doing it", why didn't you at least do it correctly? you didn't screed it, and you didn't water it as many times, or in the same way as they suggest you do it. Seems unreasonable to do it completely differently to how they suggest then say man this is terrible. of course it is. my first dry pour doesn't look nearly as cheap or bad as your example. (again, i wouldn't do this for anything that was weight bearing .... but it's way easier than mixing for small projects that aren't weight bearing)
@@derekclark5658 hi Deric, the directions on the bag say add water and mix thoroughly, it not rocket science, you can call up quikrete and tell them change the directions on the bag if you want, dry pour concrete is a joke, I seen it before, it won't hold up in our winters and it takes just as much time to learn to do it right, but the amateur newbies don't want to hear it, thanks Mike
I understand a lot more about why we do the various things we do, thanks!
Thanks, Mike
Hey Mike, in response to the comments about, "That is what the instructions say to do." I have been cooking foods in my air fryer for the last couple of years that don't have any instructions for doing so. Most of them turned out pretty good! I have recently looked at those same products, and now they have instructions for the air fryer. Just because the bags of concrete don't have instructions for doing a dry application, doesn't mean it can't be done and done well. You didn't do the process exactly as I have seen done by people that have completed this dry concrete process several times and even applied beautiful patterns to the top. I don't know about all of the youtubers, but the Louisiana couple tell everyone that they live in a warm climate and they have not idea how the concrete will perform where there are harsh winters.
Hi angle, I think it's common sense, you don't put pancake batter in a pan , pour milk or water on top and then put it on the grill, you got to mix it first, these diyers have no experience in concrete ripping out or pouring professional so they do a substandard thing and expect everyone believing they are experts, thanks. Mike
This video is awesome. It looks like for commercial applications dry pour doesn't make much sense at all.
Dry pour sounds likes its best in areas for the average home owner in dryer climate with little to no winter.
Thank you for pointing that out. Mike is just giving us his opinion. There are plenty of other videos proving the dry technique works elsewhere.
So what is two bags of readymix and one shovel of portland cement? As in the pure stuff. Its a very fine powder and i did that because i had no faith the concrete would be strong enough. I was making preformed concrete sidewalk with stainless nuts welded to rebar in the middle. It was an inch and a half thick and i picked them up with a 2615 Mahindra tractor to place them. Just screw an ibolt through the two stainless nuts before pouring the concrete into the form. Then hook the chain through the ibolt a week later and pick it up. None of it ever cracked later.
Hi, I agree, I always add a little more Portland, thanks Mike
When I was little, my dad helped the local municipality build a walkway through a portion of marsh by placing whole bags of concrete in place and just stacking them. It ended up being two bags wide at the top, with the bags going along the length of the path. I'm not sure how wide the base was, but I know they drove round fence posts into the mud under the first layer. It has been 30+ years, and other than algae growing on it, the walkway looks nearly brand new. This technique can be used if you know what you are doing. You know wet pour concrete very well, but down't know dry pour.
As for putting down dry concrete in a humid environment, you can get a much stronger product than a wet mix. That's why slump is so important. A low slump means less water taking up space within the concrete. This does make it harder to work, so some contractors will go for a higher slump. Assuming just water and not the polymer additives available, the low slump with be a higher PSI than the low slump, but will take longer to cure. As the concrete cures, the water reacts and evaporates. This leaves microscopic voids in the concrete. These voids decrease the strength of the concrete.
To do a successful dry slab, you need a few things in mind different than with a normal pour. First, you must be willing to wait for the concrete to be ready in weeks rather than days. Second, the surface finish is not turn key. This is where you get out the floor grinders and polishers to give a finish that proudly shows off the aggregate in the concrete. A side effect of showing aggregate rather than a grey surface is the floor will be much more wear resistant and produce less dust. When laying down the concrete mix, it can't be vibrated slightly to compact it. It must be compacted like a crushed limestone road bed, with lifts of 1-2 inches. Each lift needs 3 cycles of compaction with a light, medium, and heavy compaction. If you try to hit a freshly spread dry mix with heavy compaction, it's just going to run out of the way. Give a very light mist of water before, between, and after compaction to help with dust and unwanted movement. Finish the slab about 1/8" to 1/4" high so you have sufficient material to grind flat and polish.
Hi James, the instructions on the bag are clear. Add water and mix "thoroughly" with my years of experience I can tell bad from good concrete and my opinion dry pours are substandard and unprofessional, I can't preach anything that I believe is the wrong way, but if they change the directions on the bag let me know, thanks Mike
The way you did the dry pour is not how I have seen it done. Therefor your video is not a fare representation of a dry pour@@MikeHaduck
@jimborichardson3131 hi Jim, watch part 2. , if you don't get it by then ,I would callup the manufacturer and tell them to change the directions, thanks Mike
I would get in touch with the manufacturer and tell them to change the directions on the bag, thanks Mike
Come on ... people are still "debating" this ? Like you do not know that concrete is good only wet and well mixed ?????? What are you ?? Dumb ? How do you think they get the concrete to full strength in buildings and skyscrapers ? by "misting" ? drypour????😀😀😀😀😀
Thanks Danian, I agree, Mike
I respect Mike's plus years of experience, but wish you had did the dry pour similar to "Cajun country living" video shown and then given your opinion. Wet pour concrete has been around for years and it's not going away. I would use the dry pour for lite weight projects like garden boarders, stepping stones etc..
Hi Arline, I seen this all before youtube ever started, it's just the wheel going around again and diffrent angle, don't be surprised that after a few winters you won't be shoveling in the back of your truck to get rid of it, thanks Mike
I agree. He didn't do it the way others who have successfully done dry pour have done it. I can't consider this a valid comparison since the dry pour was done incorrectly.
@Vincent Hedges I'll be doing part 2, thanks mike
@Vincent Hedges hi Vincent, I would like to see a video on your dry pour, thanks mike
Dry pour has been around since concrete was invented. It's the lazy way of doing it when you want to save time but don't care about longevity.
I poured a slab of cement put gravel down. Then I put rebar in checker pattern and chicken wire. Then pour more cement. We bought a used cement mixer from the hardware store. We followed instructions then a straight board and another to make a t shape to wiggle and smooth our cement so far so good. In Wisconsin 6 inches thick i didn't mean it to b so thick. Have a ford probe on it
Thanks, Mike
Absolutely, I understand concrete men would hate the Dry Pour Method because people easily finish their own concrete projects in this method.
Hi DADADA, I'm retired, not a concrete contractor anymore, with my experience I am trying to tell people the truth, it's amature, unprofessional, cheap,and substandard, the directions say add water and mix thoroughly, but the newbies don't want to hear it they want to half ass it all, my opinion, thanks Mike
I've heard that concrete hardens more underwater so is more water better? Is there such a thing as too much water? Can you submerge your concrete for the first 29 days and get a stronger hardness?
@@troywhite6039 hi Troy, everything depends on what you are doing, I will be coming out with part 2 to help take the mystery out of concrete, thanks Mike
The reason the retaining wall bags were crumbling is because there is no steel in them. If you wet mixed concrete and poured it in the shape of those bags with no steel, they would crumble the same way.
Hi, steel rust and expands and will break all cement apart eventually, anybody using bags and not stone should realize it is a temporary fix, thanks Mike
There’s a saying back in the old days many things were built better, this is a great example. It shows how experience is extremely valuable. I take your word with all your years of working with cement. Great video and very good points. Nowadays we want everything faster and we want it now…. Also, in defense of the Cajun couple they did say dry pour cement was for light traffic not for structural support on big projects .
Hi Jacob, dry pours will not hold up pennsylvania weather no matter what the intent, my opinion, thanks Mike
Excellent comparison! No BS, no tricks, just truth. The higher pitch block is definitely better
Thanks, jj, Mike
Loved the skit at the end! Especially the guy calling everyone a hippie. Pure gold
Thanks, lol, Mike
Sir, with all due respect to you being a Concrete Mason, I understand your lack of trust., however, no one ever recommended dry pour for a driveway, or a foundation for a house. You didn’t do the technique as they described with copious screeding, or proper watering because you wanted to insure failure. You bet, pouring wet concrete is stronger, for but if you’re dry pouring for a patio or a sidewalk, I call dry pouring for the win.
Try watching more videos . I swear I’m looking for the aggregate-just not seeing it. Not the way THEY recommend it be done, anyhow.
Hi David. The instructions on the bag are clear, add water and mix "thoroughly" i watched these videos and dont see anybody with any experience who knows what they are doing, my opinion dry pours are substandard and unprofessional, I tore enough bad concrete out in my life to know, I can't preach a substandard way of doing things, I will be coming out with part 2 to help take the mystery out of concrete, thanks mike
You know you could at least try to make it not biased. Couple of things that would help is 1 everyone and anyone says this is for HOMEOWNERS trying to do diy projects. Not to do for a custom. 2 fun y how you do the correct steps for wet pour but not on the dry pour. Seem very uneducated on dry pour which isn't surprising as it would cost your industry so much money if it were to become a viable option for home owners. 1 it takes dry pour much longer to get to the psi rating. 2 you can 100% get a clean finish if you do it the correct way (you know kinda like you did with the wet pour). And 3 for small projects as a slab for a shed, walk way etc. This is a very viable option vs wet pour as long as you have the time. We get it you have been in the industry for a long time so you are trying to protect the industry. If you actually cared to make a unbiased video you would have taken the time to actually watch the successful videos people have had. Smh everyone please go watch how people actually dry pour to see how he purposely made it look like you can't get a nice finish and a strong product. Interesting part of your video however was when you broke each piece the the wet pour was filled with tons of air pockets vs the dry pour. Nice try, just too biased for me, thumbs down all the way.
Hi Chris, you learn more ripping out old concrete then you will ever learn pouring new concrete. Because you learn about the mistakes, I did my test, for me and the audience, my opinion is I would never put my name on any dry pour concrete project, it is nothing but a amateur cheap shortcut substandard way of doing things and I don't see anybody preaching it that has any experience in concrete at all, Go ahead and fo it all you want but don't blame me when it comes back and bites you, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I plan too, doing a 24x17 stamped patio dry pour. I of course will actually be doing the correct steps like everyone else that has had success did to get the smooth finish and success they have had. Imo people who are doing it aren't looking for it to last 30 years, they are looking for it to last a decent amount of time and not pay these insane prices. If you get 30 years from a wet pour and can get 15 years from a dry pour but it Costs $1,500 for a dry pour and $8,000 for a wet pour at some point it becomes a no brainer. Dry pour is for amateurs and is said to be for amateurs, there are others who have time in the concrete field and have done the correct steps and said it is 100% a possible option for the average home owner to save thousands. You just clearly didn't look up videos to do it the right way (which I get, God forbid you have a dry pour actually look nice and come out the correct way). I just hate videos of biased people who don't even try to do things to give it a fair chance. The couple of videos i have seen have stupid tests that no one logically is going to be doing to their concrete days after. Who is going to be taking a sledge hammer to their new patio?!?! No one 🙄. I have literally yet to se a single video where anyone is pushing professional companies do this so I would love to see the videos you have to make you think people would do this for a customer (I mean again a person trying to take the right steps could get a smooth finish but still). You act like people are trying to have this over wet pour, again clearly not watching videos or having knowledge of the videos out there. Maybe try doing some research on it, watch some of the successful videos, and then give it a fair shot like some others have and you can maybe be suprised at how viable of an option it is for a standard home owner not looking to pay your profession several thousands for a simple job. I just think it's funny how you and all your concrete friends are all in such a deep panic your line of work could be so easily devalued and take your weekend jobs away from people doing it themselves instead of paying you all thousands. Fyi a 12x12 stamped patio in my area is going for $4800, I will have roughly $1800 into the stamps, dye, Sealing and product for my 24x17.....yea see how that is a no brianer? I could tear it out and redo it 4 times for the price your field would charge for it to be done once. I did a 2x2 test pad (the right way) and got it perfectly smooth, then stamped it and it looked great!
Hi Chris, my opinion is do what you want, it's not my house, and if you can live with it go ahead, but I can't preach sub quality work to my audience, I would take the time and learn to do it the way professionals do., I think dry pour concrete is all hype and a con job, I know what bad concrete is because I took a lot of it out and replaced it in my career, you don't see the highway dept. Curbs, skyscrapers, swimming pools, city sidewalks being made out of dry concrete,that's why they have testing labs, and I wouldnt want a lawsuit against me, just giving you my opinion from over 50 years of experience, thanks. MIKE
@@MikeHaduck I have no allusions that dry pour will take over the concrete industry. It is simply a way for home owners to get an acceptable product without having to apprentice for 12 years to learn the ins and outs of surface finishing and strength.
As for strength, I had a bag go hard in my garage a few years ago. For grins I broke it open. The stones definitely were embedded and broke through when I hammered it. It was interesting that your stones did not break in the dry pour. There's a lot we have to learn with the dry approach. The Sackrete and other bagged concrete companies have a LOT to gain by working up a method for dry pour that works. Even if it works temporarily, they will sell concrete again to those same individuals who bought the first time.
@@-Clandestine- water is pretty readily available, however the knowledge of finishing concrete isn't. Dry pour 100% you can finish it. If you read my comment I did a 2x2 stamped pad. It came our pretty nice! I screeded it (unlike mike) then used the paint roller and then used the stamp, followed the misting/watering steps and it came out really well (and smooth not all sandy like you are claiming). I have indeed done this which is why I am pointing out how biased he is when he isn't even doing the dry pour correctly. He doesn't have the knowledge to do a nice finish on dry pour which is okay, but simply watching how people are doing it before would have done that if he actually wanted to see and do it correctly....which he doesn't. Lots of videos out there of people have success and NICE FINISHES but you all are right, must not be possible 🙄. Look it up and watch some of the videos. Why would someone wet pour a slab and try to hurry and finish it making a huge mess because they don't know what they are doing vs teaching themselves with dry pour that they have 20x the amount of time to work with it. It's really a no brainer. Now if we are talking a driveway or something that will see some serious weight especially soon after completion then it's a different story. You all can argue it all you want but it 100% has its place and yall seem very bothered that it does. But we will see, we will see how my patio turns out but guess what worst case? I tear it out and redo it and still save thousands and thousands of dollars lol
Yeah, I watched a video not to long ago where this couple were building their own house, and they did the dry pour. While I was watching it, I thought, "I wonder what Mike would say about this method?" Now I know.
Well, take it easy.
Thanks unpacked, Mike
I am SO glad I took the time to watch this Mike! I am going to attempt a slab - about 3.5’ x 3.5’. Was excited to notice a video title about dry pouring cement. Then I noticed this one of yours right below it. Decided to go straight to yours first. I’ve watched a lot of your videos and know that you know the right way to do concrete. So thankful for your videos/teaching! I’ll be doing my slab the right way 🙂
Thanks Karen, Mike
Wanna know what I think? I think you hate the dry pour method. From the off, your distaste of it comes across in the tone of your voice, your body language, everything. You based your video as "from your angle", yet you completely ignored the method that the other videos used and totally rushed it. The finish they got on theirs was way better than yours. You didn't leave it to cure long enough. You put no effort into it, because you wanted it to fail. You wanted it to fail because had it stood up similarly to the wet pour method, you'd have to admit that you and your father have been shown an easier, cheaper and less labour intensive method than what you have been using for years, and you hate that. From a psychological perspective, I get that. I don't buy that you used the same force on the two tests, and on the scratch test you can clearly see them both scratching. I don't feel your tests were necessarily fair in a comparitive way. I mean no disrespect by any of this, this is just what I see.
From the evidence I have seen, dry pour gives the same result as wet pour, as long as it is given the correct water treatment and as long as it is reenforced correctly.
Original vids:
th-cam.com/video/GC0j2Ey5NNk/w-d-xo.html - Cajun couple
th-cam.com/video/CLhz4xoHbT8/w-d-xo.html - Michael builds
th-cam.com/video/pJNKGWbi_Wg/w-d-xo.html - Michael builds 30 day test
Hi, first of all I seen all those videos before I did mine and I had tons of request to give my opinion. I tore out enough bad concrete over the last 50 years to know what I am looking at, my opinion is dry pours are substandard, unprofessional, chezzy ,amateur, and misleading, but if you want to start your own drypour concrete business I would love to see how long you last, send me the links of "YOUR" video so I can comment, also watch part 2, I would like to get your opinion on that, thanks Mike
I think you added too much water too fast to the dry pour. Adding too much water makes for weak concrete when you mix it so it should be the same for the dry pour. I think Cajun Country Livin' started the whole dry pour trend on youtube. Maybe follow their process as close as possible first before judging dry pour as being bad. Almost no one seems to follow their process especially when they very lightly mist it the first time and wait and hour. Watch their video where they complete their garden patio...not perfect but their finish looks pretty good and doesn't show the rocks at the surface like in yours.
Hi Mark, I think dry concrete is a joke, unprofessional, shoddy, cheap, smoke & mirrors, a big lie, and the wrong way, with all my years of experience why would I even consider it. thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Sounds like you had made up your mind before you started and just had an agenda to prove it. Is dry pour the best way for everyone and every job? Of course not and they make that clear in their videos. You say it's bad for 98% of jobs but their results would indicate otherwise IMO. I wouldn't think of it for say a 30' x 40' garage. But wouldn't hesitate to try it for a 8x8' pad for a shed.
Hi Mark, go ahead and do it if you want, but I would never put my name on any of it, thanks Mike
Yeh he didn't follow proper tech for dry pour. You can screw it up if you don't know what you are doing and cannot follow directions.
@Tom Tillman hi Tom, my opinion is it issubstandard and for amatures, no matter how you look at it, I would never put my name on a dry pour concrete job, thanks Mike
I like this idea. Does it hold up ? It would be so much easier to do this proceedure. Thank you sir.
Watch part 2, thanks Mike
I recently did a small dry pour pad to support/keep dry a storage shed for yard tools. Instead of filling the forms to top with concrete mix I leveled it roughly 1-2 inch from the top set my rebar and then filled/added quick set mortar repair mix to the top. Secreted and added my finish. Found this to give me a more satisfying finish experience eliminating rocks coming through. Did I still have that sand finish yes but it was consistent and level with no rocks showing. Is this as strong as a proper pour no way no how! Maybe half as strong to 3/4 as strong. Would I ever do this for a driveway or for anyone professional absolutely not! But for these light traffic areas basic needs it is incredibly efficient and effective. It is not meant for large jobs like driveways or large patio.
Hi Wad, the directions on the bag say add water and mix thoroughly, it's just as easy and probably less time to do it the right way, I can't figure out why everyone wants to take short cuts, I wish you well, thanks Mike
I would be very leery of trying to dry pour anything that held weight at all. I dont mean to pile on or criticize at all, props to you for tackling a project. Unfortunately the rebar will do very little in that application because it has nothing to bond to. Any guess on your ultimate compressive strength would just be my opinion, I would be shocked however if you broke over 1500 psi, about half or a third of a well designed standard concrete mix. The psi again is just an educated guess. Hopefully should not be a safety issue for your shed, depending on the weight of it. Again, not piling on, just hoping to spread a little bit of knowledge and wish you all the best with your project.
I wouldn't accept either job. The finished "mixed" concrete has a poor finish job. Should have just poured it, screed it, troweled it and put a broom finish on it after letting it set for a couple hours.
Hi Patrick, watch part 2, thanks, Mike
Very thorough and informative. Answers my question about this technique for where I live. I'm roughly on the same latitude but farther West of your test location. I have seen and been intrigued with the dry pour concept but I had doubts about it for most applications in the Northern climates where we are subject to repeated freeze thaw cycles. Thank you for the very in-depth analysis and the time you spent on the experiment.
Thanks boomer, Mike
@@MikeHaduck I would also not want to trust that the dry content in the bag product is properly homogenized..... all the portland cement may be at one end of the bag.... I do not get to see the Quikrete plant bagging operation..... so not only would hydration be uneven and inadequate, the content of the bag could be unevenly distributed.
@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 true, I always add some more Portland in each bag as a insurance, thanks Mike
You da man Mike. Your expertise is very clear.
Thanks ducky,, Mike
Thanks, Mike, for your time and videos ....I am almost 100% done re-tuck pointing my old red brick foundation thanks to you and your videos "even some brick repair."
Thanks, I appreciate hearing that, Mike
In fairness to the cajun couple haduck also did not skreed the dry pour like they did. I remember them saying to skreed the form so the aggregate would drop down under the powder. I think haduck probably did it that way on purpose to make it look loke adry pour should not be done. I for one don't trust his opinion.
Hi virginioah,,, the directions on the bag are clear, """add water and mix 'thoroughly' """" my opinion is any other way then manufactures directions are substandard , unprofessional and misleading, I suggest you watch part 2, thanks Mike
Thanks for all the education and incredibly informative vids on the mystery of masonry .... I've been subbed for years and It's still a fascinating concept. And of course, I hope you are jamming with friends and making music. Thanks Mike!
Thanks Thor, Mike
Don't know about anyone else, but I'm not ever pouring my concrete dry, under any circumstances. This is solid, empirical evidence.
Thanks, Mike
Awesome video Mike! I'm a big fan actually been studying your videos 🤙and taking in all your information 🤙 recently got into dry pour made a few videos did some research what are your thoughts on this process I actually learned from other people plus added a few steps of my own after researching to answer some problems of weakness and finish
Dry pour (90 percent) topped
With Rapid Set Mortar mix or repair mortar 6000psi (10 percent on top for smooth finish)(no rocks)
Compacted with hand tamper/hit form with hammer to reduce air pockets
Screeded
Paint roller for smooth finish
Burlap curing method for 30 days or longer for strength
I'm in the middle of this process now both slabs seem strong I'm still burlap curing at the moment only about a week or two in but one slab is a little over a month old,, continuing to water daily would love to hear your thoughts, thank you
Hi Diy, anybody with experience will tell you , that you will learn more ripping out old concrete than pouring anything new, My experience tells me and my opinion is that it is a amateur, cheap, substandard, shortcut, misdirected attempt to sidestep the experience and testing of seasobed professionals. I haven't seen anybody who preaches this has had any experience in concrete work, I won't ever put my name on any dry pour concrete project and those who are doing it I feel it's going to come back and bite them, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck appreciate the insight Thank you 🙌🙌🙌
Hi Mike, Will Mike , I am not a cement worker,or a cake maker,but you have a great point here , I see in cement mixing,and cake mixing you must follow instructions,This Dry pour remind me of the new dump cake that is being made today ,and it does not come out very well,just like the dry pour of cement,you are right not a professional job ,Need to follow instructions 🤗 love your videos Mike keep up teaching us the right way.🤗
Thanks Martha, you sure are a smart lady, lol, Mike
Ha-ha, the DIY cement mixing dump cake recipe is what I'm looking for! This watering stuff seems too time consuming.
Here is my take.
When I do home owner concrete work I do not want to come back and dig it back up , ever.
Dry pour is more back breaking work. It's a social media gimmick. Its a trap for the up and coming new home owners.
Buyer beware.
Thank you Mike.
Thanks Richard, I agree, Mike
You constantly saying that you don’t know why anyone would do it that way had me cracking up…and also earned my respect…and a new sub.
Thank you for your dedication to doing a job right.
Oh and the ending was the best! Loved it!
Thanks, Mike
You didn't follow there instructions
Hi Greg, lol, I hear you, they should be following mine, lol, thanks Mike
👍👍
Way too much water when you hit it with the first mist.
@bbaucom2 hi bb, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix "thoroughly" they do NOT say put in form and sprinkle water on top, my opinion is dry pours are substandard and unprofessional, and I can't misleading people with substandard work, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck You're proving my point. You did not go into this to show a fair comparison. You did not even go into this to show how much better we form concrete was over dry forming. You went into it with the intent to show that dry form concrete is just a bad idea. But for some jobs and some situations, if it is done right, it may be perfectly acceptable. But your biased approach never gives it a chance. So, from my perspective, your video is useless. It is, for sure, not applying scientific methods. It is just one man's opinion. You could have made that a two minute video.
OK, I just gotta say it-Mike Haduck for PRESIDENT, 2024!!👍👍🥇🥇🥇
Thanks ,but not for me, lol, Mike
That's great your dad is still in the trade. My grandpa died a few years ago at 92. He worked concrete for 70 years. Those are real men.
Thanks buck, he did pass away in Oct, I do have a interview with him I will be doing but it feels like he's still around, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I'm sorry to hear that. We will miss those men from our greatest generation
Thanks, Mike
Very informative. I'll stick with the ready-mix delivered wet concrete and not attempt the dry pour. I especially liked the ending comments by other professionals. It reminded me of the days when I worked as a hot tar roofer with other gentlemen who had worked that trade for decades and decades. Sometimes there is not a better way than the tried and proven methods that have worked for a century. Thank you for your post.
Thanks, Mike
Just poured a pad for my front porch here n Port Murray NJ. Used 62, 80lb bags of Sakrete. My back still hurts. Also did about 6 pallets of dry lay wall using snapped Karney from WickiStone who I'm sure you know about. I'm 66 and still try to learn something new every day and learned a lot from you Mike, so thanks. Thanks for all your advice through the years. For the front porch, I have a 1/2" thick, flexible base on top of the concrete, ,then a leveling layer of sand, and dry laid porcelain tile on top. Honestly it looks too nice, like a kitchen floor, and I'm trying to find a 3/4" paver with a more outdoor, rustic look. Has to be 3/4" thick max and consistent thickness to lay on the pad. Most pavers are 1-1/4". Any advice or recommendations are appreciated.
Hi Phil, I can't say unless I was there to see it, but it sounds like your having fun and whoever it comes out you will be satisfied, thanks Mike
When I was 13-16 years old, my dad would get a concrete delivery to his hardware store from the Sakrete distributor... no loading dock... they double parked in the street, and we hand-trucked every bag off... 20lb 40lb and 80lb sacks.... I was shouldering sacks almost my own weight, and I was a scrawny lil guy back then!
@@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 All that hard work finally catches up with you. I have mason and construction friends the same age as me and a lot of body parts, hips, knees, have been replaced. Luckily I was a software engineer, but a weekend warrior on construction parts and still holding up after 67 years
Thanks for passing on the knowledge and experience.
Thanks TBone, Mike
Yet another example of a "professional" not following the rudimentary instructions, getting an intentional bad result, and proclaiming that he knows better. The dry pour method isn't meant for professionals so there is no need to compare the two. But at the end of the day, your experiment loses credibility when you don't even do the method the correct way.
I rarely see dry pour videos with as bad results as when the professionals "try their hand" at it, and show you that it just doesn't work. LoL
Hi Jay, the instructions on the bag say "add water and mix thoroughly " I see this all before youtube began. The newbies don't want to hear it, my professional opinion is dry pour is cheap. Amature, unprofessional and a con job , again read the instructions on the bag or call up the lab boys at quikrete and tell them their I structures are wrong. Thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck no one is talking about "following the instructions on the bag", Mike. No one is talking about going into business as a 'professional', and using this method. Your cosmetic result WAS a result of not doing it the way described. No, it isn't the same as a wet mix ... but then it isn't supposed to be. But you keep doing you.
Hi Jay, "Exactly", you are "NOT" following the instructions on the bag, so that's between you and all the lab and testing people, I am retired now and sometimes filling in when other contractors are short, but I think it only fair I give a honest opinion that it's substandard work, If you want to keep doing it that way, I wish you well, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I don't think anyone using the dry pour method is worried about the lab & testing folks. As for substandard work ... that is clearly what you did. It was a substandard job, like most other "professionals" who come on TH-cam in order to discredit the method. It isn't for everyone. But it's for someone.
Hi Jay, my opinion is that it's the blind leading the blind, I wish you well, Mike
I’m not surprised, I figured there was a catch to it in some way. I think there’s some applications where dry concreting probably works well and other projects where it fails
Hi, I will be doing a part 2 to take the mystery out of concrete and explain best I could how to do it simply and professionally without dry pours, thanks Mike
I truly enjoyed the ending to this video - especially the word from Honest Mike. The dry pour concrete videos have been on YT for ay least 2 years now and I have been waiting for a professional mason to respond. Thank you!
Thanks mu, Mike
Perfect timing! I wouldn’t have dry poured the slab I am forming for an outdoor fireplace, but the rest of the tips regarding finishing etc are going to come in handy tomorrow. I poured footers two weeks ago and will pour my pad tomorrow. After that I have to start digging through the brick and stone laying videos again, as I form the fire box etc, then lay fire brick and flue. Going to finish with blue stone pulled from the face of library at Colgate University about 18 years ago when they re did their “Case Library”. I saw the blue stone in a coupl piles about a month ago, got that urge to finally use em up. I used Mike’s videos while building a pizza oven a few years ago, and now will use em for this project. Thanks Mike!
Thanks Chris, Mike
Great vid....i was an inspector for 20 years and Mike brought back memories on the job. Done hundreds of projects and i would question the 4000 psi ASTM rating. Cylinders or coring that stuff wouldnt pass. Thanks Mike.
Thanks John, I appreciate hearing that, Mike
You didn't do it the way others who were successful have done it on TH-cam. You didn't screed it which make the rocks go down. The first 2 coats of water are only supposed to be a light mist with and hour in between them. If you're going to do a valid comparison, you should do it correctly.
Hi Vincent. The directions on the bag say " add water and mix thoroughly " ,let's see how long their dry pours really last, thanks Mike
The entire “ dry pour “ phenomenon is a worldwide display of Dunning-Krueger syndrome.
Thanks Womp, Mike
Well said
😂😂😂
Dry pour is fine for certain limited applications. The main problem is people thinking a 1.5" thick slab is sufficient for dry or wet pour, it's NOT!
I’m a journeyman finisher and I just heard about dry pouring. I think the reason I never heard of it is because with misting of water only how is the mix going to bind together especially around rebar or chicken wire. I watched the video from that couple and I see no way a full size truck drove over a 1 1/2” slab. Even poured the right way I see it cracking. Sacking a slab or even a sidewalk I always added extra Portland, I still am iffy on quick Crete. To me it looked like more work dry pouring and the finish product wasn’t appealing even with some kind of rolling stamp they used on it
Hi, the directions on the bag are clear, "add water and mix thoroughly" I agree , dry pours are substandard, amateur, unprofessional and misleading, it just as easy as following the directions and doing it correctly, watch part 2 and let me know what you think, thanks Mike
ALMOST dry poured a slab for a 300 LB condenser in upstate N.Y., but then I caught your video just in time ! Thank you so much for taking the time to educate us non-professionals. As you said concrete for the south does not have to perform like concrete poured in the frozen north. Was very surprised that they simply stack bags of concrete in Florida & don't follow up to see how poorly it performs long term.
Thanks gtf, Mike
You do not use premad pads and risers for AC equipment ?
@@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 For a small condenser, yes, but this dual fan Mitsubishi is literally 5 ft. tall, 42" wide, sits on an 18" tall stand and weighs 300 lbs. I don't want to do this one a second time as we'll have to lift it into place with a lift !
Stacked bags perform very well in places like Florida, fifty years and better... But Florida doesn't have hard freezes or rocks, so there is no better option for retaining walls. You do not build on bags of concrete, you just need to keep the ground from slumping.
@vidard9863 hi, I am now living in Florida and every wall with stacked bags is falling apart, the got tons of coral rock, I can't figure out why they are not using something that can be reused??? Thanks Mike
Mike thanks so much for demonstrating exactly WHY dry pour is junk. Your videos have enabled me greatly. There's a lot of misinformation out there and you cut right through the crap!
I've watched a couple dry pour videos because they're suggested and the guys float it multiple times with wood to try and hide stones. I imagine this would still leave sand on top.
Thanks Alex, Mike
I would never put my name on any of that work, thanks Mike
Dear Mr. Haduck! I just wanted to let you know how appreciative and thankful for you taking the time to allow us lay people into your world of concrete. Love your channel!
Thanks Anthony, Mike
I love how every video for the last 10 years, Mike says "there's no one way to do concrete, every body does it different," but when he gets to dry pouring slabs he says, "that definitely ain't the way to do it!" 😅
Thanks Jeff, Mike
I have been waiting specifically for your thoughts on dry pour since at least 2020. So many TH-camrs are treating it as nearly equal to adding water and mixing. I never believed them because I don't just believe any and everyone on the internet. You have taken the time to educate us. Thank you Sir!
Thanks Mr. C, Mike
Thank you very much. those dry pours didn’t make sense to me. I’m glad I found your video that proves it doesn’t make sense.
Thanks, Mike
I'm glad you made this comparison/ explanation video. I feel sorry for all those DIYers that are on the "dry pour" band wagon. Not only will they not be happy with the finish it'll only be a matter of time till they are sweeping up cracked chunks and tripping on their pads, especially if they are in a freezing weather climate. Basically, I think most people are drawn to the dry method because they are scared of mixing concrete and worried, they will run out of time to finish it properly. True time is critical, but it is actually your friend if the conditions and mix are right. And with most things practice makes perfect.
Thanks Madd, Mike
He didn't do the dry pour correctly!! Watch Cajun Country Livin' to see how it's supposed to be done, please!
@reedera4 hi Reed, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix " thoroughly" any other way is substandard and unprofessional, my opinion, the bag don't say pour in form and spray water, I will be coming out with part 2, to take the mystery out of concrete, I can't support substandard or unprofessional work, thanks Mike
Dry pouring is not substandard. More and more people are doing dry pour on their own because it's easier and looks fantastic when done correctly, which you did not do. That's my point. YOU DID NOT DO IT CORRECTLY! If you watched the couple that basically invented dry pouring concrete you would know how to do it correctly. I guess the old saying that you can't teach an old dog new tricks is correct!
@reedera4 hi Reed there is no way to do dry pour properly, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix thoroughly, when the manufacturer changes the directions let me know, otherwise my opinion is that dry pour is a con job, thanks Mike
Thanks Mike. Your a gem bro. Great skit at the end.
Thanks Wiley, Mike
Great video Mike. I think this whole dry pour concrete fad is a sign of the times. Once you add water to concrete it turns into a ticking time bomb. People don’t want the stress of mixing concrete and having to muscle it into place and getting it into shape while it sets up. They rather take a shortcut for something with no longevity. Seems to be that way with many things these days. Thanks for the video!
Thanks GD, Mike
More like they want something to do the job for under 200$ vs the same job for 2000$ or more......... it's just a place to let your chickens walk it's not a skyscraper.............
@John Dorian it don't cost no more to add water and mix it thoroughly, read the directions. Do you think those guys at the lab don't know what they are talking about? thanks Mike
@MikeHaduck for many, it's the physical labor of mixing & hauling the Wet stuff along with the $... people with limitations can manage a Dry Pour & feel a sense of accomplishment where they can't manage a Wet one.
But maybe if you come up with a Wet Pour method for people with physical limitations, it'll catch on like wildfire... just remember, it's gotta be less labor intensive, & not time sensitive like the Wet stuff.
People aren't so much looking for short cuts, but rather just something they can actually manage!
@@johndorian4078 There is one constant with "dry pour", the "dry pourer" always rationalizes the results, maybe because it's easier doing dry than wet, and acknowledging that dry point just ain't right would hurt their ego. It's sort of like being a true believer. It's sort of like a religion. It is sort of like not believing your lying eyes. There is no acknowledgment that dry pour is the sheeny way of doing concrete and the resulting finish and strength is substandard.
I call bs if he had done it on the ground and allowed it to cure it would not have cracked
Hi Brian. The directions on the bag say. Add water and mix thoroughly, dry pour is a substandard , cheap, amature half ass way of doing things, I seen this all before youtube began, I would call up quikrete and have them change the directions. See what they say, thanks Mike
Love it! "Dey chrow me right off da job..."
Thanks Jah, Mike
One of your best! Knew you'd get around to this topic, Mike, and I wondered what you'd say. Very thorough, very patient presentation Thanks..
Thanks James, Mike
Would the aggregate of the dry sample settled down if a wood screed would have been used instead of a metal float? I saw the wood screed used on the wet method, but not during the dry method. Also, it's important to remember that the dry method will likely need more water applied to it. Think of concrete as if it's a sponge. It's not waterproof. Water will pass through it. As long as it has both time and water, the bonding will continue.
A wood float is often used on wet concrete to work up a grout. I don't know if it would do that on dry concrete. I watched video on somebody doing that on the dry method and they said that screeding over and over would drive the aggregate below the surface and allow for the fines to come to the surface and from what I could tell by their video, that looked like what happened. I didn't see the rocks showing on their video.
I would like to know what would happen if both samples would have been submerged in water, after about 6 hours. Would doing that have allowed the dry method to have gained all the water it needed to set properly? What if both of them would have been submerged in water overnight? I wonder what would happen.
I'm also wondering if, when using the dry method, whether the concrete should be tamped. Would that help its strength and also, I wonder if that would help some of the aggregate to move below the surface. I'm wondering if tamping the dry would help with consolidation.
Hi Ray, the directions on the bag are clear. " add water and mix thoroughly " my opinion is dry pours are substandard and misleading, I did part 2 to take the mystery out of concrete, thanks Mike
You keep on saying you cant do the dry pour for a customer. I think you completely missed the point of dry pour. It's only for a diy setting where someone wants to do it themselves and save money. Nobody said dry pour was professional grade.
Hi reo, ,how are you saving money when you want to do your jobs half ass, read the directions on the bag and do it properly, I wouldn't listen to anyone who is not a concrete professional, watch part 2, thanks mike
great in depth video for all the recent dry pour videos popping up on youtube!
Thanks strong man, Mike
Hi Mike. I see a lot of mixed comments condemning the comparison to another dry pour test. I think your conclusion is convincing enough to consider dry pouring a bad idea. Nice video.
Thanks almyer, Mike
Thanks for doing this video. Nice video to show the dry pour people. I would like to see a load test where it is loaded with weight until it fails and see which one holds the most weight. That would be a really telling video.
I asked to test it they said don't waist their time, thanks Mike
My front porch that I poured 30 years ago, one foot thick solid concrete air entrained from a concrete plant, has sunk two inches after many year on clay soil. I want to put ¾ inch porcelain tiles on it. I raised it two inches with this dry pour method being careful to make accurately level and not worrying too much about the finish since it will be covered with tiles. I let it in the form four days and keep wetting it every day for a good cure. It looks very dense and hard, the tiles will be set in a month, so at full cure. I think this type of use for dry pour is acceptable. The concrete will never be submitted to flexing strains or surface abrasion. MIKE, any comment on my experiment?
Hi Ding, when I did that I would just build up with the mixed thin set for outside applications, I never had a callback the way I did it, thanks Mike
hey Mike if rocks are showing you gotta put a bit more then after edging it, the very LAST thing ya do is run a nappy paint roller over softly & it honestly looks AS GOOD as your wet concrete. Youre talking about Mike Day who also did it wrong.
Hi A, I seen this all before youtube started, read the directions on the bag, add water and mix thoroughly, it's not rocket science, dry pour is amature, substandard, cheap and unprofessional, it takes just as much time to do it right it don't hold up especially on northern winters, best thing you can do is call up quikrete and have them change the directions to suit your cause, thanks Mike
Mike, very good information. I learned something today. Aloha and Mahalo.
Thanks Fredrick, Mike
. The dry pour is quick, and a bit lazy. Everyone wanrs to do "work hacks" these days and some of them are cool , but is it Effective? Does it Endure ? Mike has been doing this longer than that 'Cajun Couple ' have been alive, trust experience and solid work ethic.
Thanks Sam, Mike
I assume it would be acceptable to use this dry pour concrete for post holes, since appearance is not a factor and it would break off easily t]when you need to replace the post
Hi, I have no problem with post holes, thanks, Mike
Mostly Mike it's homeowners and old guys like me dry pouring. However there is no way by yourself you can mix and pour a 10x9 slab. and when I poured the slab I didn't expect a good finish, but it will do what I wanted to do I'm only parking lawn mowers on it. I agree it's unprofessional but it only cost me $ 150
Hi Robert, I understand, personally I mixed and poured more than that by myself, I will be doing part 2 to take the mystery out of it, thanks Mike
A big hell no! There are many good reasons why concrete has been poured wet forever. Concrete needs to be mixed to consolidate and it needs to be mixed. Pissing on dry mix will cause a chemical reaction to harden the mix, but that isn't real concrete. If you like the weathered look of 100 year old rotten concrete, then fill your boots and do a dry pour. If you want your slab strong with a smooth professional surface that won't crumble and spall, then you better mix concrete the right way. It looks like it is more work doing it the backwards way (dry pour) with sh!te results. Maybe some people want their slab to have more craters than the moon with continuous spalling and weaker concrete that will crack and crumble in no time.
People, save yourself the grief and spend an hour learning the basics of what makes for good and bad concrete. Dry pours take the cake for mistakes that will ensure your concrete project will end with the worst appearance and shortest longevity. Concrete was made to be mixed and if it isn't it will be sh!t concrete and not perform as it should.
Thanks Thor, I agree, Mike
Honest Mike's been burying unhappy customers in the concrete since the 60's, lol. Lovely video Mike. The results are clear.
Thanks Bitter Truth, Mike
You are not doing the initial wetting process correctly. Mist a little first.
Hi C, I seen this all before youtube ever started, it's just the wheel going around again, my warning is watch out for the newbies. After a few winters you might be shoveling in your truck to get rid of it, thanks Mike
Most times, if you start out with your mind made up, thats where you arrive. Your obvious bias and improper application of the "dry pour method" gave the results you wanted. You obvious know how to pour concrete, i believe that, but be open minded. You just might learn somethin.
Hi Cee, I am trying to get you to see what's happening, The directions on the bag say, add water and mix "thoroughly" any other way from manufactures directions are sub standard, it's a con job in my opinion, I tore out enough bad concrete to see what's going on, I will be doing a part 2, thanks Mike
Love the ending! So worth it!
Thanks Joe, Mike
Mike, I am in mid Atlantic Pennsylvania. I am SOOOOOO glad I watched your video. I am collecting concrete and a 10x12 shed kit for my yard. I had been thinking I would do the dry pour cause its easier. Now..... NO. I am doing it right. Probably rent a mixer, and do it right. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your experience. Great video.
Thanks Dia, watch part 2 if you get a chance, thanks Mike
I don't think this guy has seen the Cajun country living videos
Hi Len, I don't know if they watched mine. The directions say add water and mix thoroughly, it takes just as much time to do it professionally, thanks Mike
Love all your videos man.
Thx you sir from Houston Tx.
Thanks angel, Mike
Thank you for the video. I was going to do dry mix for a flower bed boarder but not now. Thanks
Thanks Stacy, Mike
Thanks for the video. As for the dry pour, and the rocks on the surface, I wonder if a guy could make a wire screen roller and roll it over the dry cement to force the rocks down before wetting it?
Hi, the directions on the bag are clear, add water and mix "thoroughly" in my opinion dry pours are substandard and unprofessional, I will be coming out with part 2 to help take the mystery out of concrete, thanks mike