The Ultimate Multi Purpose Fence? Is There Such a Thing as the Ultimate Farm Fence?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ย. 2020
- It's important that you plan for a fence on your small property that allows flexibility and provides options for the future. Mixed grazing or running different stock puts different demands on your fence. Regular cross-knot, hinged joint and horse / equine fencing are popular choices. Today I go through some options from Whites Rural and explore their features and benefits. I then make a decision allowing for every eventuality. Finally I install the fence and demonstrate a few new tricks as I put it up.
For details on products used, a blog on this video and others or links to playlists on topics check out my website timthompson.ag/
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My Channel / @farmlearningtim - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Ha! Love the goat check!! Out of curiosity, have you ever done a video on post spacing? As in a split post every x meters and a star picket every x after that?
Haven’t yet......
@@FarmLearningTim on the cards? 😂 or some where on your website I can find resources for information like that?
i dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost my password. I would love any tips you can give me
@Marcellus Matteo Instablaster =)
@Titan Barrett thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Love your work Tim. Definitely by far the best TH-cam has to offer. Thanks again and please keep up the good work.
The goat test 😂😂😂...that’s gold!
😝🐐
The test you do for goat fencing is brilliant!!! I’m going to start implementing that test tomorrow
Heheheh
I wish I'd found Tim years ago! This video is terrific ... not just the "what" but also all of the "why". It took me years to realize horse fencing isn't just for horses and despite the weight and cost is the most versatile of the mesh.
Lovely bit of dirt there, Tim.
Full depth of the auger, and still in top-soil!
Lucky to get 10 inches here.. . :D
As a city slicker gone country, I could really use you in a week when I start fencing my first fence for our sheep haha. After a few weeks of watching your videos, I'm as prepared as I'll ever be!
Great! How did it go?!
Thanks Tim. That was another great video from you. Thanks so much for putting the effort you do into them. I absolutely love your videos and look forward to putting my new found knowledge into action. Thanks so much!!!
Thanks mate. I’m wrapped you enjoy them. This one was a personal favourite
Beautiful looking soil
Great video again Tim. I will be using whites for my property... But there feral fence in stiff stay great products
Great segment, and I also loved the goat check. One reason we're running sheep! I'd love to see your advice on a fence designed similarly to this one to keep a variety of animals in, but also to keep dogs and foxes out, particularly over uneven ground. Cheers!
FABULOUS VIDEO!! Wish I was able to build a fence of similar quality.
The goat check lol that is absolutely gold!!
I’m a city slicker who will never be ‘on the land’ but I continue to watch your videos religiously. Thanks Tim.
Thanks mate. We need as many city slickers as possible watching this sort of thing. Would solve so many problems in society. Thanks for watching!
Another brilliant video filled with info. Ah Mr Thompson..... you've done it again 👍😁🤙
Thank you Mr McCain!
Looking to put this fencing in the next few weeks using Davo's fencing clips. The rain has slowed everything down in the Karuah River Valley.
very good video - very well presented - thank you very much
Legend Tim great content as always
Lovely looking fence - we added a ton of electric to keep the possums OUT!! Been pretty successful - so far. Looks like lots of useful tips - cheers!
Good job
Mate I’m off a farm in nz but now live on five acres in Western Australia you are awesome man great videos no bull shit straight to the point and quality
Tim, I liked your trick of tying the short bits of plain wire around the post, then crimping the mesh to them. Can definitely see that saving time and headache. Looks nice,too,
Also liked the tips for rolling up the used wire. Had been considering trying using a spinning Jenny to do that. My twelve year old often helps me roll it up by hand. I think we will both be glad if we can do it an easier way. Do you think it would work for barbed? We have a fair bit of that to roll up too. (Refencing an old farm)
Thanks for the content. Excellent as usual.
Astute advice on the tension Mr Tim Thompson
My pleasure Mr Barclay. At your service.
Hi Tim,
Another good video.
I like the Stiff Stay product too.
I have made a strainer bar with the same spacings as the line wires and use Crimps to terminate at the post without the short end of plain wire.
The horse fence (50mm spacings) also makes good tree guards.
One frustration with the Stiff Stay is the small number of line wires that match up with the hole spacings on the star pickets.
John
Look ing fòŕ smaller house to buy
Damn all my fences failed the goat test, but the plants on the other side thanked me! 😂👍 Great content mate, got yourself another sub 👍🏽
Another good vid Mr. Thompson.... Although I think you should have done the goat test at the end at least 3X just to be sure... hahahaha. You are so right about choosing a fence. Our 4 strand barbless horse fence worked great for horses and big cows... but later on we found young calves like to push through "just because they can"!
an excellent video
hi tim from scotland and very good video
G’day mate. Really glad you liked it.
Great shot with the camera in the hole man well done shit go with the tree root
Hi Tim, if running goats I would not recommend running 8/90/15 as the goat can fit it’s head through but it’s horns stop it from getting its head back out. So got fence either 30cm or 5cm pickets!
Another great vid 👍🏻
Sheep and lamb wire is okay for most Alpine and Boer goats as long as you are careful about where you put the droppers. Often a dropper (or sometimes a post) in the wrong place will prevent a goat from getting it's head back out again if it can't get it's nose around far enough to come out nose first. I'd say, it's okay for small paddocks where you can check the stock regularly, but like you say, closer pickets to stop them from getting their heads through in the first place is much safer. Also, our Boer kids have no problem getting through 8/90/15 type wire - no good next to a busy road!
Your fence should keep in chooks okay except for the flying teenagers and the really little ones. We have an electric wire 5"-6" off the ground to keep the chooks awake and in the paddock. You forgot one test though - 🦃 the turkey test! Pretty much, if you can blow through the fence, turkeys will get through it, or more likely over it. We've been using wallaby wire which is similar to your horse wire, but a bit taller probably and that works well for chooks, goats, sheep and cattle. It speeds things up because less wires are needed on top, but tying it up the old fashioned way is a pain though. I definitely need some of your tools. Good advice as always Tim.
WELL DONE TIM, very funny video, & the "goat fence checker" would make a great T-shirt... would sell Millions
Done. Seriously. Look out for it
I reckon cutting the prefab line wires under tension loses strain and fiddling around with plain wire collar and ties then crimps is not required. Cut the upright pickets off the prefab ( easy with Knipex) then tie a collar and tie as per usual around the strainer before the Wedgelock Clamps go past the strainer. Also use two long chains and two sets of Wizard Contractor hand strainers with the Wedgelock Clamps to get the tension right. Put a Tenser Senser on the line wires to check tension.
The bucket holy shit man the best
I agree completely but once buy right mate
7 stand plain wire fence with 4 hot wires or all hot if you want, cheaper than prefab though you obviously have to maintain your electric
Looking to get this wire. We have the old fashioned white mahogany centre drilled posts. The posts still have enough life in them. So I am thinking this wire and Davo's fence attachments to pin the wire onto the outside of the posts.
Hi mate great job once again p.s I second the goat proof check haha catch up soon
Would love to catch up. Cheers!
Only recently came across your site from Land Line. What a ripper of a site Tim. Always good quality videos with good reviews.
Maybe you could put in links to the items your demonstrating?...even if they were affiliate links so you get something out of it for your great video quality efforts which are always very time consuming to make :)
...always a struggle with what type of fencing. Here in the Yarra Valley - Steels Creek the soil turns to slop in the winter and rock in the summer. Put in some new fencing to one area of the property taking advice from the local fencing contractor - Pine post every 6m and 2 star pickets in-between using 7 plain wires making 3 as hot wires and strained up to within an inch of its life :)..anyways looking back, for my situation with herds of kangaroos, wombats, deer, horses and cows what was quite an expensive fence, turned out a really good choice. Still looking straight with the kangaroos generally moving on to another area rather than forcing their way through the fence. Maybe I could have done your 4m spacing with horse mesh. I might have to do a costing exercise to see the difference...probably not much. Would be good to know some options of fence styles to consider - plain wire, mesh, post types and mixtures with their pros/cons.
G’day mate. Cheers for the contact. I don’t think that there will ever be an ideal fence for all situations! That’s what makes this such an interesting topic. There are links and posts on all reviewed products on my website timthompson.ag we are also working on affiliate links, but it’s a complex thing when you are dealing with companies that don’t generate them themselves!!! Watch this space. Cheers!
Lucky you hit a stump, I hit piece of old cast iron wood stove with my auger about 14 inches in the ground and broke my wrist when it caught
Yeah they bite if you are not careful. Mine has a brake thankfully
lol, on the Goat Check. Also important to not, is if fencing across spillways, or in my case a stormwater outlet run-off area. I didn't think it was a big enough gap under the fence for ours to get under, but they did, well, until I placed 2 old concrete posts across the gap, and filled the rest of the drain with large rocks, that way water can still get through, and the rocks are large and heavy enough to stop the monsters. That might be an idea for a video, the best way to block off holes under fences. Also, I have a back fence that runs along the edge of a waterway, where the posts have been driven along the edge of the bank, and a lot over the years have become loose or rotted. The previous property owner has driven 2.4 star pickets further in to brace loose posts, but I'm not sure if that's the best idea. The farmer behind, panicked when he seen that I was going to fence on the other side of the posts, stating that the mesh would push the fence over. He has strained barb lines on his side. But I have strained top and bottom and mesh on my side, and have so far installed 1 H Brace on my side where one of the internal paddock fence runs are (have a second to do when the weather is better). Straining the opposite side has stiffened the whole fence up, I think as tension has been put on the other side of the post, helping it, rather than collapsing it. I was wondering what your thoughts on that would be. I can send through photos to better explain things if you like.
Great fence and I find your instruction easy to understand and extremely logical. I'm about to alter an existing fence to make it dog-proof. I've already paid someone to do that, but the fence that was attached does nothing more than the existing fence, making it a waste of time money and supplies. With a glass more than half-full attitude, I've been watching your videos and I've deduced that I can actually do all of this myself, properly, with a few more views, a couple of tools and a little practice. Have you any videos on dog-proof fences for poultry?
Would you believe this is coming soon?
Awesome video! Exactly what I have been wanting to know in respect to joining two rolls together and attaching to end assemblies for 10 wire fence. So can I use gripples to join fence and also at the end assemblies as I don't have a crimper? I don't like gripples as I think they are unsafe however what other options do I have?
I’m not going to rubbish any options. However Gripples will set you back around $3 each (AUS) and for two ends and a joint you’d need 30. Crimps are $60 for 100. Use the spare change to buy the tool?
1.5 pest fence without the footing with a top electric wire at 1.6 m or so. Good for sheep goats horses cattle alpacas etc Also keeps all but the biggest roos out and also feral dogs. Bit pricey yhough!
That looks good but your bottom wire will rust out it’s sitting on the ground
Here in the U.S. we have "goat fencing " that comes in 330 feet rolls, 4 feet high, holes 4 inches x 4 inches. Also horse "square deal" fencing in 100 feet rolls, with 2 inch x 4 inch holes, in 4 feet or 5 feet tall. The former will hold anything bigger than a half grown chicken. The later will hold anything bigger than a chicken a couple weeks old.
You can buy this horse mesh in 4ft high 3.sizes available
Hey Tim, appreciate your videos. Any chance you can upload a video using the same wire without the crimps? Like to see the end knots and joining the wire without the use of crimps. Prefer not to use. Thx.
Check out my sheep mesh video.
Will be doing another video in a few weeks with stiff stay. Might think about this
love the videos. Loved the goat proof joke, couldn't stop laughing. We have new miniature goats that love to jump our 30yr old 90cm fences so I am about to put in 1.2m fences to slow them down and save Mums roses
Great job Tim, how good are crimps aye? Nicely tied.
Crimps are VERY good, but around here (Gundaroo, NSW) staff in rural supply stores look at you as if you just got off a spacecraft when one asks for them. Had mine mailed from distributor and swear by them now.
Greetings from the US!! Excellent video as usual! I'm just getting started on putting up a 3/4 mile perimeter fence here in TX. When you said put the barbed wire at the other end to keep the 2 legged animals out, could you please elaborate on where and how you are putting that barbed wire? Thank you!!
On the top run, although this is dangerous to wildlife. I only use it when humans are expected. After all, it worked well in both world wars…..
Awesome! Thanks for the reply. Have you done a video on how you place your top line barbed wire?
@@FarmLearningTim
Lekker man lekker 🇿🇦
Great vids Tim, the post you are using are they H4 100mm or 125.
Cheers Mark
100mm intermediates mate
Tim, how long do you reckon would be the maximum to run between end assemblies for the horse fencing that you used , assuming fairly level ground. Brilliant video's to, have been watching for a few years now.😀
Hi mate. For ease of tensioning I would stick to 100m for the heavy horse mesh. That’s two rolls. Some contractors may differ in their opinion but I enjoyed good results with a 100m spacing.
you need a warwick rural fencing mesh roller
Great videos 👍 question do you have a video for joining heavy gal whites netting (hex) type? Would crimping work for this?
I would normally clip netting together as it’s supposed to be supported by strained plain wires.
@@FarmLearningTim thank for your reply. I would have thought clipping wouldn’t be strong enough to hold up to the straining of the netting.
Hi Tim could you please let me know what gear you used. The ratchet and strainers etc. cheers Dave
Hi Dave. Check out my website for the gear. Links to manufacturers. Strainers were wireman
Can you please advise how many kg lever chain block you use to tension fence
I don’t. I use either Fenceline or wireman strainers.
What to do when the land is steep and uneven though?
Hi Tim. I’ve moved on to a block and the previous owner has let the grass go everywhere. There’s a nice paddock with 10cm2 mesh fencing on it, however it’s riddled with grass and weeds. Is there an easy way to trim this out of the fence? The line trimmer just burns through cord, and the brush cutter just rips the fence (there’s no apparent offset from base of fence to ground to fit trimmer between).
Any ideas? So far my only thoughts are poison the whole fence line then fall back after a week with a gas burner and torch it, or pull the fence down and do new mesh using the existing posts (after a good mow of course). Any tips would be appreciated!
Herbicide is the easiest
This type of you used will it stop fox's from digging under the fence. Also can you use it as a dog fence, where it's curled at the bottom about 100ml. Thanks.
I’d recommend clipping an apron onto it. Heavily galvanised chicken wire or similar. Foxes will go under over etc. to stop foxes you need a ground skirt and overhanging tall fence.
Tim I’ve got a pony that rubs on my Waratah stock safe hinged fence, even with the Gallagher offsets and an electric wire the winter rug won’t let the current through , what tips can you give ? I’m lost and frustrated.
A horse question! Cool! I’ll do my best. These might be simple answers you have already considered..... Also there are more expert people out there than me. Ok? Here goes:
Too hot; maybe sweaty under there which will make it itchy. Consider an under rug.
Dermatitis; cut back on shampoos and give it omega 3 and 6 supplements..
Bored; provide toys and work it more. Rubbing can be a form of windsucking Behavior. Get the pony a small child to torment. Failing that a large exercise ball or something.
Midges; maybe you are near a water source or sandy soil and need to apply an insecticidal shampoo etc.
Smegma build up on the sheath.... (D#*k cheese). Clean it. Carefully.
Take the rug off during the day when you can. Then rubby whallop! If that’s not working check your earth. Maybe the electric fence is faulty or too much resistance. I have a video on that.....
cheers
Hi Tim ,ever done a comparative test of practical kneepads
No can’t say I have mate. I’m up for it though
@@FarmLearningTim mlght get a couple more days wear out of jeans before washing.... Workshop guys are always reminding me to Wear them to prevent lasting knee damage
I see you cut the line wire whilst still having tension on it, what is keeping the line wire still tensioned?
Check out this week’s gadget video I’ll give you credit for stealing this idea!
one of the problems with the stiff stay is tying off the wire, it does have the tendency to break mid knot where you remove the verticals. yet its cheaper than ringlock. i've been slowly replacing all the old hinged joint boundary fences with stiff stay 8-90-15 and two barbs on top. The koalas cant get through it though so i have to leave sections for them to get around.
Have to agree i think ring lock is past its use by date
Question. How far down do you use the auger for your posts? And why no concrete? I have thick, sloppy wet clay mud and I've learned that pickets don't stay in the ground. I got them in only 300 deep. Never knew how flooded it can get there. (new property lease) I'm tossing up on how long my pickets have to be and how deep they have to go with wet clay. I thought of concreting them in but I don't really know what im doing. Trying desperately to learn. But it looks hard to me. Lol. My fences are falling apart.
G’day. Hopefully this response works for both of your recent comments. End assemblies are the key here. End posts should be large and at least 1200 deep. Try the Stockpost floating steel end assemblies or fencestay steel box assemblies if you want to do it yourself. Once end assemblies are solid and wires are tight, the steel intermediate posts just hold the wires in position. If they still move on you, try stockpost XL steel posts. You would be surprised how much more solid the larger size steel posts are in the ground. Also, check out my fencing a gully video for more ideas to stop posts being pulled up out of their holes. Lastly, women can do anything. Back yourself.
@@FarmLearningTim Thank you so much. I been eyeballing the fence stay for simplicity. It looks so easy. How tall are the steel posts? The larger diameter ones? I have done my fence at 1.5 high. Standard size for horses. Or the XL pickets maybe. I'm assuming they are more expensive.
And my picket spacing is 2 metres apart. I don't have pine posts. My cousin was nice enough to build me his own corner bracing (his idea) That worked a treat. But my middle posts are now loose. Mind you, my energiser packed it in. Had a tree fall on the top wire sending all the other wires to the ground and fried my motherboard.😭 Waiting for my new energiser. In the meantime horses are pushing on the polywire. Its too thin. And the mud isn't helping the pickets stay put.
Thank you for the info. Looks like I have some work to do. I hope I get it right. 🙏
@@FarmLearningTim Oh what are stockpost floating end assemblies?
Knipex every mechanics dream
How about a video on a rabbit proof fencing mate.
Don't think there is such a thing haha
Is horse mesh suitable for dogs mate
Yep. Totally.
We have 7 barb and post does not seem to faze them
No. Barb will kill a few but doesn’t stop anything.
@@FarmLearningTim thanks Tim
By the color of your soil, I'd say I'm about to settle in an area fairly close to where you are. I'm researching fencing for sheep, mini ponies (I know, they're my mothers..) and horses. I've been advised not to use an auger to place posts in when in red soil, but to stamp them in instead, the reason provided is that the red soil does not compact well once it's disturbed by auger, and the posts will be loose. Do you have any thoughts on this? I'm looking at the Woodshield posts (larger diameter) and the horse mesh for the smaller paddocks, and combining the Woodshield and plain wire for the larger paddocks where only the larger horses will go. Would love your thoughts on this. Thanks in advance. Karen
G’day Karen. That’s good advice for any soil regardless of colour. Rammed is always stronger. Glad to hear you will be enjoying great country. Make sure you get hard footed sheep!
Rational and logical animal 😂
And owners….
Is stiff stay Suitable against kangaroos ?
Hi Andrea. There are two main approaches to kangaroo fencing. One is electric, the other is Stiffstay. Stiffstay as a solution depends on the skirting along the ground, as most roos go under the fence, and some plain wires above. I did a video on this a while back, see here th-cam.com/video/9mHDI7HrXa4/w-d-xo.html Watch this space for more on Kangaroo exclusion with electric.
But is it fox proof
Never use staples into pine post as post crack open and staples pop out. Plus the kangaroos push them out. Prefab fences are quick but nothing like a plain wire and dropper for general purpose fence. Never use gripples as they let go when fence is hit. Good fence for small holdings but not viable for large farms
Why can’t you just use the horse wire to tie off the end knot, is the plain wire knot necessary because I don’t have crimps
Yes you can. I was saving time and effort
@@FarmLearningTim ah ok. Great
Pity the bottom half wasn't tighter spacing to stop Rabbits this limits the products use for most Australian Farmers.
What about cattle!? Electric?
Hence the title....
HA ha ha, goat fence test lost my shit!
😜
Mr bitey
Surely this is not the answer , too much site work , a pre fabricated steel fence made in factories delivered to site is the answer with the only work digging the post holes.
I think the point of this story is that maybe there is no ideal fencing solution. Each situation has its own needs
Kangaroos prevention?
A bucket of water
Thrown at a fence proves it's not goat proof lol