A few questions: Do you know of any good places to buy string/thread? How much space would you recommend to designate for reed making? Is there an efficient way to clip the reed without your little contraption?
@@alexaarnold4200 Awesome questions! Because I use regular cotton thread, you can find that at any place that sells thread/yarn. If you use nylon thread, it's easier to find that at a double reed retailer like Forests. My reed making takes up my entire desk, but I have a shelf storage system that I put everything back in place when I'm not actively using tools. You can get a reed tip cutter, it's like a pair of pliers but has blades instead of jaws, and you can find that at any double reed retailer. You can also use a sharp knife or razor and a cutting block. You just have to be very careful with both methods to make sure that you cut straight!
Another great video! My process is a mixture of at least three bassoonists' processes, I'll pull a few things from yours to try, as well! Unrelated question: I have a Hercules bassoon stand and never know how high to set it so that it doesn't interfere with any of the keyword on the wing and long joints. What's your advice on the ideal spot for it? (I notice yours is set higher than I've tried mine)
I have found that I need to set it pretty high to not interfere with keywork! I also feel like it is more stable and less likely to be knocked over on accident if it is supported more along the full length of the bassoon. I just set it has high as it needs to be so that there's no rods/pads resting against it.
Are you making your own reeds? If so, it could have to do with your forming process and how you're beveling (or not beveling) the sides. If you're ordering reeds and find that this is a consistent issue, you might try tightening the second wire (after soaking the reed) and see if that solves the issue. Otherwise, if your reed is leaking air (or air/water), there's not a whole lot you can do on a finished reed.
HAHAHAHA I saw another of your videos on how to make a blank. I put my cane to soak in a big cup yesterday, but they stuck out about a third because they were dry. NOW watching this video, I see they sink as they absorb water. I actually put a weight on top to make them go all the way in!!! LMAO Should have watched this video first! hehe live and learn! Can't wait to dig in later today and make my blanks!
Just curious and I think I already know the answer. You put the wrapped blanks to dry with the bottom wire on. When you put the other wires and strings on, is the reed still dry or do you wet it again? I imagine all dry. Also, to cut the tip off, do you wet it again or cut it off while still dry right after putting the wires and turban on? Thanks!
The reed is dry when I put the other wire and string on! I usually let the blanks dry at least 24 hours before working on them. I also wet just the tip before I cut it to prevent cracks. Good questions, and good luck!!
I use the corner of a razor and draw 6 parallel lines along the length of the bark. You may not be scoring deep enough if you don't feel like your tube is forming well? That, or you might not be crimping (squeezing with the pliers) as completely as is needed.
Hey, just wondering how much does typically 1 bassoon reed cost to make (without the price of tools)? Aka just how much do materials cost per reed. Thank you!
Good question! It depends on what stage of the reed making process you're starting at. If you start with GSP cane, you're looking at around $6-7/reed which includes the cane and a tiny bit for thread/wires. If you gouge, shape, and profile your own cane, the cost is cheaper but the cost of the tools to do these processes is quite high!
Hey, this is more of an advanced bassoon question, but I saw a video where someone went to f below the staff on bassoon and was wondering if you had any fingering charts or anything? A lot of the time I try to play songs one octave lower or higher as practice and I’ve encountered a lot of difficulty doing so because of this issue. Apparently it is possible with a regular bassoon (Mine is a Renard Used Wooden one borrowed from school), I just don’t know enough about bassoon to produce my own accurate fingerings. (The video is called something like expanded lower register on bassoon)
Here's a link to my standard fingering chart: buildingabassoonist.ck.page/fingeringchart Definitely refer to this when trying to play in different octaves as the fingerings can change drastically between certain octaves!
Hii, some of the pro reeds my band director gets me from bocal majority i struggle to get a sound on, should i scrape them down to make them more playable?
What questions do you have about making reeds? I'd love to know!
A few questions: Do you know of any good places to buy string/thread? How much space would you recommend to designate for reed making? Is there an efficient way to clip the reed without your little contraption?
@@alexaarnold4200 Awesome questions! Because I use regular cotton thread, you can find that at any place that sells thread/yarn. If you use nylon thread, it's easier to find that at a double reed retailer like Forests. My reed making takes up my entire desk, but I have a shelf storage system that I put everything back in place when I'm not actively using tools. You can get a reed tip cutter, it's like a pair of pliers but has blades instead of jaws, and you can find that at any double reed retailer. You can also use a sharp knife or razor and a cutting block. You just have to be very careful with both methods to make sure that you cut straight!
Where'd you buy the reed micrometer ?
Thank you for sharing precious knowledge
Another great video! My process is a mixture of at least three bassoonists' processes, I'll pull a few things from yours to try, as well!
Unrelated question: I have a Hercules bassoon stand and never know how high to set it so that it doesn't interfere with any of the keyword on the wing and long joints. What's your advice on the ideal spot for it? (I notice yours is set higher than I've tried mine)
I have found that I need to set it pretty high to not interfere with keywork! I also feel like it is more stable and less likely to be knocked over on accident if it is supported more along the full length of the bassoon. I just set it has high as it needs to be so that there's no rods/pads resting against it.
The next video will be "Get Started Making Your Own Bassoon"
I love your content you helped me a lot and thanks for not making your reeds too expensive one question I have is why are my reeds not sealing
I have been watching your content for a while now
Are you making your own reeds? If so, it could have to do with your forming process and how you're beveling (or not beveling) the sides. If you're ordering reeds and find that this is a consistent issue, you might try tightening the second wire (after soaking the reed) and see if that solves the issue. Otherwise, if your reed is leaking air (or air/water), there's not a whole lot you can do on a finished reed.
HAHAHAHA I saw another of your videos on how to make a blank. I put my cane to soak in a big cup yesterday, but they stuck out about a third because they were dry. NOW watching this video, I see they sink as they absorb water. I actually put a weight on top to make them go all the way in!!! LMAO Should have watched this video first! hehe live and learn! Can't wait to dig in later today and make my blanks!
Just curious and I think I already know the answer. You put the wrapped blanks to dry with the bottom wire on. When you put the other wires and strings on, is the reed still dry or do you wet it again? I imagine all dry. Also, to cut the tip off, do you wet it again or cut it off while still dry right after putting the wires and turban on? Thanks!
The reed is dry when I put the other wire and string on! I usually let the blanks dry at least 24 hours before working on them. I also wet just the tip before I cut it to prevent cracks. Good questions, and good luck!!
How to score the bark by myself？I felt my cane sometimes can't be formed into the tube well
I use the corner of a razor and draw 6 parallel lines along the length of the bark. You may not be scoring deep enough if you don't feel like your tube is forming well? That, or you might not be crimping (squeezing with the pliers) as completely as is needed.
Hey, just wondering how much does typically 1 bassoon reed cost to make (without the price of tools)? Aka just how much do materials cost per reed. Thank you!
Good question! It depends on what stage of the reed making process you're starting at. If you start with GSP cane, you're looking at around $6-7/reed which includes the cane and a tiny bit for thread/wires. If you gouge, shape, and profile your own cane, the cost is cheaper but the cost of the tools to do these processes is quite high!
Hey, this is more of an advanced bassoon question, but I saw a video where someone went to f below the staff on bassoon and was wondering if you had any fingering charts or anything? A lot of the time I try to play songs one octave lower or higher as practice and I’ve encountered a lot of difficulty doing so because of this issue. Apparently it is possible with a regular bassoon (Mine is a Renard Used Wooden one borrowed from school), I just don’t know enough about bassoon to produce my own accurate fingerings. (The video is called something like expanded lower register on bassoon)
Here's a link to my standard fingering chart: buildingabassoonist.ck.page/fingeringchart
Definitely refer to this when trying to play in different octaves as the fingerings can change drastically between certain octaves!
Off topic question, but what’s the name of the piece at the very end of the video?
At 35:17
Hii, some of the pro reeds my band director gets me from bocal majority i struggle to get a sound on, should i scrape them down to make them more playable?