4L60E High Performance PT5 - Case Assembly, End Play Adjustment and Dealing with an Assembly Error
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- I conclude the 4L60E high performance video series with case assembly and end play checks. Along the way I make an assembly error that prevents me from moving forward - let's see if you can guess what the error is when you get to that point in the video.
![[Re:all TREASURE] EP.6 in 방콕ㅣ🚩 쩡캠의 방콕 투어 빵 마이 와이 👍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uyFw-nItA_s/mqdefault.jpg)
Nick, I'm watching this for knowledge and your mistake was a teaching moment!! Some builds cannot be disturbed! I shut off phones lock doors or what ever I have to do not to be disturbed,I also make appointments for Bullshitting!!! Just like a simple oil change, never stop till the oil is in,experience!!👍👍👍👍
All I can say Nick you definitely put out the best easy to follow informative transmission videos on TH-cam..Thank you..
Thanks again, BigFun4Life!
I enjoy your videos Nick, much more than some of the others that sound like they know more than everyone else.
Thank you, Leon! Appreciate the kind words.
Man one of the best videos iv seen on this usual they either fky threw it or dont go into depth with what there doing and why you should double check definitely got a sub
Thank you for the kind words, Charlie! Appreciate it. For a rebuild quote, please reach out to me via Tahoeyukonforum.com. My name on there is Nicktransmissions - you can send me a private message and I'll respond back as soon as I can.
Hi Nick, There is nothing worst than when you're all back together, saying I wish I would have have!! Build it to make you sleep!!🥵🥵🥵🥵 Nice Job Nick!!
Thanks, Doug!!
The center support race doesn't sit flush and is a bit raised but it engages the planetary when trying to rotate, will this be okay?
Hi Jason, it sounds 'normal' but if you want, take a video and post it to TH-cam - then reply with the video link here and I'll take a look. Make sure the camera is stable (not jerkey, no filming in vertical) and lighting is sufficient so I can clearly see how everything looks.
What is the effect of too much end play?
Too much end play in 700R4s and 4L60Es can lead to the forward drum's thrust bearing coming apart and sending needle bearings everywhere in the trans. Additionally, that much longitudinal travel in the forward drum resulting from the bearing destruction may lead to the front sun gear coming out of mesh with the front planet, destroying both.
In my high performance 700r4 build, I have 4 thrust bearings. 2 are the same, 2 are different. What are their locations?
You should have 5 (actually 7 since you're doing hp and should be using a Sonnax smart shell and 03+ reaction shaft, both of which have their own bearings) so you're missing one:
1. Forward drum-stator
2. Input sprag to drum-inboard
3. Front planet to ring gear
4. Rear planet to ring gear
5. Rear ring gear to rear case
Front planet to ring gear and rear ring gear thrust should be the same.
If you're not using the ATSG manual or have it handy, I strongly recommend you acquire it asap before going any further as it as diagrams and layouts of everything in that case...You also have my 700R4 rebuild series to help via step by step instruction along with way: th-cam.com/video/g6DDPbPEebs/w-d-xo.html
Bigfunforlife said it best!!
Thanks, HMG!
Hello, I am about to start my first trans rebuild with a 4l60e. Could I email you my parts list? I just want to see I'd I'm headed in the right direction. The details in these videos are phenomenal.
Thanks, Mazi!
Feel free to post your parts list here and I'll reply with any recommendations...
@nickstransmissions okay, all my parts will be bought from summit since I don't really know of trustworthy transmission parts companies. List below:
AC Delco reverse drum
Sonnax 77700-01k band
Sonnax 2nd & 4th superhold servo
Sonnax shift improver performance pack
Summit racing 705025 rebuild kit
TCI 373600 sprag
Sonnax smart shell
New AC Delco reaction shaft
Stock input and output shaft with output shaft seal
I would like to do new 5 pinion planetary sets but I don't know where I should go.
Torrington bearing kit
My Monte Carlo will be a 231/234 cam only 5.3l with FTI street brawler 3200 stall and 3.73 gears. I like street racing lol
@nickstransmissions I have a Monte Carlo that's will be 5.3l 230s cam, fti street brawler 3200 stall, 3.73 gears. I will be purchasing all parts from Summit Racing due to not knowing of other reputable hard parts companies.
List as follows:
Ac Delco Reverse Drum
Sonnax 77700-01k band
Sonnax 2nd &4th super servo
Sonnax performance pack
Sonnax smart shell
Summit racing 705025 rebuild kit
Ac delco reaction shaft
TCI 29 Element sprag 373600
Output shaft seal
All other parts stock unless needs replacing
I would like to do 5 pinion planetarys but I'm not sure who to purchase from.
List looks good so far though your current input and output shafts should be fine unless they are both bad. You could always go billet w/the output shaft and buy the Sonnax Smart Tech drum but that's an extra 2k plus on top of everything else...The 'Sonnax' bands are actually Alto's kevlar and red bands - given you're racing I'd go w/the kevlar but know it's harder on your rev drum than the alto band...Follow Sonnax's instructions for setting band clearance but generally you want it as snug as you can get it without binding...Too loose and you're 1-2 shifts will be too harsh and band may break in half.
Keep your 3-4 clutch pack clearance between .030-.040 and install Transgo's High Rate Return spring kit as well as their unbreakable pump ring kit...The Sonnax kit should have all the other hydraulic improvement parts that you would want to install. I'd recommend an Alto or Raybestos max pack of some sort (7 or 8 frictions) - I would not recommend the Raybestos Z Pack as those plates are way too thin and seen too many burn / cone under high RPM/horsepower.
For five pinion planets, you can do one of two things (I do the first only) - Find a 4L65 or 4L70E core and tear it down to harvest the planets (or build your transmission using the 4L65/4L70E as they have induction hardened input shafts, heat treated stators, larger bearings for the front planets, 7 clutch-6-steel 3-4 clutch packs and in the case of the 4L70E, an induction hardened reaction shaft. If you know what to look for, you can find 4L65s and 4L70s - check out my 4L65E tear down video for the specific ID tag codes for those units if you're thinking of going that route. The second option is to buy them over the counter from a local transmission supply shop. Though most likely they will try to sell you aftermarket planets made overseas which I never use.
Drill your 1-2 feed at .086 to start, your 2-3 and 3-4 feed holes .110-.115...Band exhaust should be .093-.110. Low Reverse can be drilled to .086 to .093 and remove the low reverse captured check ball, especially if you're going to be shifting from manual low...Block off the 4th gear accumulator all together by plugging the accumulator feed port in the bottom of the bore and leave everything out of that piston bore (no piston, spring, etc).
Lastly, replace all of your electronic parts (solenoids, harness, pressure switch manifold assy) with AC Delco, Borg Warner, Delphi or Rostra brand stuff.
If i think of anything else, I'll make a second reply.
What is your startup procedure that you tell your customers?
I tell them to put 1-2 quarts of fluid into the converter before installation then fill the pan as much as it will take then run the engine for 15-20 seconds to allow the trans/converter to take up more fluid...Continue doing so until it won't accept any more then put the trans in gear, cycle through the gears and perform one last top-off...Then let it sit for 15 min while all the frictions and/or bands soak up the fluid...Then top off one last time and take for a test drive...If the trans is a TV-based unit like a 700R4, they would be instructed to perform a pressure test to validate TV cable set up and adjustment was done correctly before the test drive.
The bearing that was wrong size, where does that bearing go?
It's actually another low-revere bearing for a later model unit. I simply grabbed it by mistake and didn't realize it lol.
The Rear Bushing not in enough in the Front Ring Gear
Yep - that's as far as they typically go though I did manage to push that one in a bit further off-camera (can't remember how far but it travelled tiny amt).
Thank you for watching, John!
What determines the thickness of the selectable washer at the input drum? When do you change it to adjust ?
Preliminary end play measurement (see the end-play portion of the video where I adjust shims based on the initial end play measurement). There's multiple different thicknesses of spacers, each are numbered (67-74, i think). Higher the number the thicker the spacer...I believe they are .004-.005 increments from one to the next. Once you have your initial measurement (assuming your not already between .015-.035) then you simply add shims or change out the spacer based on what you need to do.
@@nickstransmissions In essence , you want to start with a middle-of-the-road selectable washer (#70) and shim the rear bearing to get it as close as possible to desired end play. Fine tune the selectable washer if required.
Actually, your first step in the end-play set up process occurs during disassembly, before you even start pulling the trans apart. The first thing you do is grab and push/pull on the input shaft to see what sort of end play the trans already has and determine if it's within acceptable ranges (you don't need to set up a dial indicator for this, you can do it all by feel). If there's barely any play at all, it's likely within spec already (or very close to it). If you can feel a decent amt of play, it may need a shim or two. If it's moving a full 1/8-1/4 of an inch in and out, the thrust bearing has come apart.
Watch the first few minutes of my 4L60E tear down video - skip past the intro and tooling overviews to about 8 or 9 min in to where I talk about end play: th-cam.com/video/WuTX8n8RVEE/w-d-xo.html
That will guide you in terms of where to start and whether or not using the selective spacer already installed should work or if you may need to swap spacers or shims. And you don't have to shim the rear of the case, it's just one avenue of approach for adjusting end play. I did because I ran out of .010/.015 shims for the input drum.
@@nickstransmissions Yes, I agree checking end play on disassembly. My question was more related to "mixed" replacement parts. In your build , you have many that would affect endplay. If you didn't take it apart or had no idea what the selectable was, what would you do to put it back together ?
Exactly what you saw me do in the video. I made that video in part to illustrate how to approach such a situation.
I just selected a washer in the middle of the range and went from there. If you didnt take it apart or you did but, like in my build, you literally replaced nearly every part in the case, your best bet is to start with #69 or #70 washer and then do an end play check to see where you are at and adjust from there (sometimes you get lucky but most of the time you need to make an adjustment). No reliable short cuts that im aware of, unfortunately...
Where are you located?
I don't give out my location on TH-cam but if you have questions, please feel free to post them here. I am pretty good about responding timely.
@@nickstransmissions
I have a TH350 and a 4L80 that I need built for high performance. I don’t trust the big guys like monster, TCI and Hughes. I was just hoping you were somewhat close to MA. Within reasonable shipping distance.
Gotcha...Most rebuilders won't ship unless they are a volume enterprise such as Monster or TCI as they get very favorable freight rates that makes it worth it. To your point about not trusting them, most large reman companies usually have a set 'formula' for rebuilding whichever unit and don't deviate as arbitrary uniqueness in parts or mods, etc translates to rising costs where such economies of scale concerns don't exist for the smaller, independent shops as they don't see enough volume where that becomes a concern. Thus can rebuild the unit better, with more upgrades and give you a la carte options for your application.
If you haven't already, please view my 4L80E rebuild series as that one was set up for high performance street strip. th-cam.com/video/cWzYbhG3osA/w-d-xo.html
I also have some topical videos on improving the 4L80E on overhaul that may also be of interest.
Kindly sub if you haven't already as Ill be doing more 4L80E vids soon
I’m 49 years old and have been in the rebuilding industry for over 30 years. My father started and auto electric rebuilding shop in the 70s. I’m familiar with the rebuilding business, just not familiar with rebuilding transmissions. It seems there’s less talent these days compared to decades ago, at least local to me. My TH350 is already built for high performance but it’s leaking a lot and 2nd is slipping pretty bad. The 4L80 is for an LS build I’m working on. I think I’ll get the 350 on the bench and give it a tear down. Thanks for your help! New subscriber here!