I want to commend you for how reserved you are to criticism and recommendations. Your humbleness is miles ahead of almost every poster I've seen. Your work looks great, and your passion even more so. Everyone has room for improvement and you're already miles ahead of most. Keep it up, bro!
Thank you! I appreciate your insight. I’m planning to rebuild my 408 this year in a similar series. I’ll be able to show some good differences in how I build a strip motor versus this street beater.
Garland! I appreciate this, once again. I just finished up the 408 build and have it stabbed in place of the 360 in my barracuda. The plan is to try it at the track before winter time
Thanks man, imma try and post a video of the finished product. You didn’t have to balance the new positions did you? Can you post a link to the ones you installed? The positions on the description aren’t .60 over, I’m looking at a few hypereutectic passions with varying height. Idk the difference.
@@cmintsurfer thanks! This engine is in the 65 coronet. I switched cams to a purple shaft 340 magnum grind. Lots of torque! I had the 360 in my purple barracuda for a few weekends and have a video of it.
Very helpful and precise vid,but and helpful note,the numbers of each cylinder are stamped into the rod and should face outward I believe. I’m a mopar super freak too. Keep building those mopar hearts that beat strong. Hanging pistons is always tedious work.
Thanks Judy. I always reference the chamfer of the rods, in relationship to the journals. I’ve seen stock Mopar rods with symbols stamped in. It’s a good practice to document the placement of rods when disassembled. Sometimes rods may get swapped around when balancing. Perhaps heaviest rod to lightest piston, etc.
One more thing Joe, take a moment and measure your total drag by using a torque wrench and turning the assembly making note of the amount of force required . Semi dry cylinder, like pb blaster or kerosene. All pistons and rings installed. Nice work ! I’m just finishing up a Ford Boss 429. Total drag was 45 pounds/ feet.
Great job on these videos. I am new to building an engine and I have a question about the crank shaft oil slinger. I looked through your videos and I cannot find where you show installing it. I am guessing I just missed that or that it was such a small and quick install that you didn't put it in the video. I was just wanting to make sure that I know for sure which way it goes on. I am guessing that it is convex when looking at it installed on the engine. Am I correct in that assumption. Sorry but I would rather look dumb than install it wrong. Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching! Sorry for the bad camera quality. I’ve gotten better since then. Here’s that video. I would put the front cover on before oil pan if you can. th-cam.com/video/I_XjL8qJv18/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9FmRKed6oozM854d
I believe you can carefully drill and chamfer the hole in the end of the rod. I think the machine shop has a small hone that they open the rods up with in order to make the pins full float.
Automotive rebuild shops use a Sunnen rod machine to make sure the small pin and the crank pin are Parallel !! Bet you can not drill that hole parallel...
I know on a two stroke you always put the wrist pin clips up and down because inertia can squeeze them together a bit and they can pop out. It does happen. On these maybe it doesn’t mater though cause there thicker and and don’t rev nearly as high?
That’s how I was taught! The 413 build series is exactly that. It got new rings, bearings, ported heads, one size smaller Lunati voodoo cam, and edelbrock performer rpm intake. It’s probably 8.0/1 compression, but pulls great! Hope you can check it out. It’s listed in my playlists .
Did you weigh and balance your rotating assembly - pistons , rods and crank? I was told by old timers and others that if you do that engine will last longer especially under high rpms
MOPAR MAN 1978 we must know the same old timers. Lol If this was a race engine I would have balanced it. It’s just a street mule. From my research, these pistons are lighter than the KB version, and doesn’t need the balance.
@@JustMoparJoe Just a little insight, and you SHOULD be able to to find this in those books... That crankshaft should be balanced front to rear as you purchased it. So that's out. A machine shop will balance the piston/rod, and acc. COMBO to the crank, HOWEVER!!!, you can individually balance them to each other. 8 pistons, 8 rods, without going the furthest step to the crank. A simple gram scale is all that's needed from wallyworld. That's what those fat rectangle pads are for on the big end of the rod. You'll also have them on the undersides of the pistons. File each down to match the lightest of the 8, in a nutshell. Youll have to account for the rings and wristpins/retainers when doing this, and can mix and match those as well to give you your most even starting point. Edit: just so theres not confusion, the crankshaft comes balanced to a generic guesstimate "bob" weight to simulate an average expected rod/piston combo. Balancing the crank will add or remove weight based on whether your true bobweight(piston/rod/retainer, etc. Are lighter or heavier, but that's still independent of the piston/rod balancing I mentioned. They're related, but separate processes.
Garland Jones I agree. I actually did the balancing act you mentioned on a race 383 that I built. It was stock crank and rods with some high compression KB hyper pistons. That engine does very well bracket racing 20 weeks a year. When I do my 408 build, I’ll send it off to bullet cams to get balanced. Thanks again. If you think of anything else, my email is justmoparjoe@gmail.com. I’d like your take on the necessity of doing any oil mods on a sbm.
@@JustMoparJoe I had almost asked if I could contact you through email, so I'm stoked you brought it up. Ill definitely reach out to you soon, likely Sunday.
I've never done an engine rebuild and the Chrysler 360LA will be my first. These videos will be extremely valuable when I rebuild it. The only issue I have is I see 1 teeny difference when I look at rebuild kits online. One kit will say "4 inch bore" and the other one will say "4.030 inch bore". How do I know which one to get?
Good question! You’ll have your machinist check the bore when you bring in the block to get hot tanked. A standard bore is 4”. The 4.030 bore is the usual oversize when the block needs bored. The machine shop will check bore, let you know if you need pistons and any work done. I wouldn’t recommend buying the tools to check bore size if you don’t rebuild engines often.
@@tinysupreme6417 not a problem! If I can answer I will. Basically it’s a hot chemical mixture that cooks all the sludge and nastiness from out of your freeze plug holes and oil galleys. Other shops have high heat washers and biodegradable solvents that are more Eco friendly.
@@tinysupreme6417 not a problem! Check out my 408 stroker stuff, and the Juan Carlos truck. Both are small blocks and both go together exactly the same.
So may be a dumb question, but when you order pistons do you give the weight of the factory pistons to get close or am I missing something? I had my engine bored and decked and was going to order pistons and bearings. I would like to save money where I can being a budget build, without cutting corners of course. Thanks
Basically you order and use them. It is really ideal to get the assembly balanced. You can weigh your stock pistons and try to match the aftermarkets to them, if you didn’t want to rebalance.
RE: Floating rod pin, Mopar early Stock floating pin rods have a bronze bushing in the small end.....Hard metal to hard metal, even with the oiling hole are likely prone to seize....
My machinist honed the rod end for .001-.0015 clearance for the pin. He also drills a small hole in the small end of the rod, and chamfers the end to debur it. We have over 2,000 passes on a a set of stock rods just like this in a 550 hp 440. Never seized. No issues. That’s why I am confident to promote it. I’ve seen it and field tested it.
I would also have to look at the expansion rate of each metal. Hard metals likely expand at the same rate. With proper clearance and good oil, there is no issue.
Hi I would like to know what cam intake heads you suggest for my 5.9 Magnum. To go on street and track my engine and stock. I have a 2003 Dakota R / T I don't want to touch the base thank you in advance
I would buy a good air gap style intake. You should check out 318willrun on TH-cam. He has a 360 magnum in his drag truck. He explains the exact combination he runs. The cam is an oregon regrind. They can grind you many different cans from a stock unit much cheaper than new.
Floating Pistons require less friction. They are self centering. They create less friction. You've got the engine apart, balance the Pistons while you can, and in Balance the rods while you can. It's not that difficult of a job. And stock Chrysler Rod's work quite well up to about 900 horsepower. I've seen stock rods in a 440 Run can second times in under quite readily. At about 800 plus horsepower. Does that engine have the same valve relief for intake and exhaust valves, or are you missing a step here? It looks to me like your exhaust manifold valve releaf on the Piston is slightly smaller than the intake valve relief, which means they have to be oriented properly. However it's hard to tell because you don't show it clearly enough. By the way, I meant to ask if you're so worried about scratching the bearings why are you applying assembly Lube with a freaking screwdriver instead of an acid brush? I put together several Motors and add a day and a half. I've actually put one together in about 6 hours. I however already knew it was clean before I started. I put Mopar engines together since the 1960s, and I've never heard of putting the ring Gap words the spark plug. As a matter of fact of anything I would put it away from the spark plug. I cannot even fathom what advantage you're getting by doing that. And at least 60 degrees difference between the gaps of the first two rings is more than adequate. I would check other number to rinks to see if you can find one that will be a little bit tighter than 20 thou. The second ring should actually be tighter than the first ring, as it is not subjected to quite the amount of heat.
44 Hawk thank you for watching my videos. As you probably heard, I am a novice engine builder. If this were an actual race engine, I would have had it balanced. These are cheap Speed pro pistons. They are lighter than the KB alternatives and most forums agree that they don't require balancing in this type of application. It will live 98% of it's life under 4,500 rpm. It hasn't had an issue. I reference the book in most videos, that's where the piston ring theory came from. I was hoping that this series would help other novice builders or Old professionals such as yourself, get out in your own garage and work on your projects. I hope to do a couple more engine build series like this this year. One with a stock style 413, and one with a Bracket 408 stroker. I've saved your comments.
Not nit-picking at all here, but, you said end-play is .002"-.007" "limit .010". The book actually states the lower limit, which is .001" (one 'thou). Wouldn't want anybody thinking they can get away with .010" on the street. It will work in a race motor that is gonna live at redline. Not so well on the street though.
wheelieking71 thanks man. I always forget those figures and I referenced the same small block Mopar book throughout the engine build series. You don’t think .001 is too tight? Wouldn’t that only leave .0005 between the crank and face of the throw out bearing? If there is a better book to reference, shoot me a link please. I’m building a 408 this year.
@@JustMoparJoe I definitely agree with you on .001 being too tight. But, in a street motor, .010 is too loose. Oil pressure will suffer at idle/low RPM. Race motor that idles around 1,500 and lives above 4k, it works just fine. I'm gathering parts to do a 438 (stroked 383) this year. Should be fun. I enjoy your videos! We need more old-school Mopar guys!
Almost a good engine... shit ass silvolight Pistons... go cast or go forged.. ive seen dozens of motors pop the top off the piston with those... SHOULD BE ILLEGAL TO SELL!!!!
I want to commend you for how reserved you are to criticism and recommendations. Your humbleness is miles ahead of almost every poster I've seen.
Your work looks great, and your passion even more so. Everyone has room for improvement and you're already miles ahead of most. Keep it up, bro!
Thank you! I appreciate your insight. I’m planning to rebuild my 408 this year in a similar series. I’ll be able to show some good differences in how I build a strip motor versus this street beater.
Garland! I appreciate this, once again. I just finished up the 408 build and have it stabbed in place of the 360 in my barracuda. The plan is to try it at the track before winter time
Books are priceless. Let them afford the cost of mistakes. Let us reap the rewards of those who will talk.
It's been a real treat to watch this build, keep going, we all look forward to that final episode.
Thank you Mark! It’s still on my run stand. I’ve got to get the car painted and get it dropped into it!
Super insightful no bs uploads. I’m starting my first rebuild and it happens to be a .60 over 360.
Christopher Estrada good luck with it! Shoot me some pictures @justmoparjoe on Facebook
Thanks man, imma try and post a video of the finished product. You didn’t have to balance the new positions did you? Can you post a link to the ones you installed? The positions on the description aren’t .60 over, I’m looking at a few hypereutectic passions with varying height. Idk the difference.
Christopher Estrada rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F151880612325
Christopher Estrada you won’t need to balance unless you plan to run over 6,000 rpm with these. The KB pistons are heavier and you’d need to balance.
JustMoparJoe thanks for the info bro. Imma try to get my hands on the book that you have there. Did you ever test the output of this 360?
Alright! Like number 440! Good reference video for the future. Thanks Joe
Thanks brother! This one is definitely from the archives 😂
@@JustMoparJoe Yep, I'm binge-watching. I'm on part 3 now.
@@cmintsurfer thanks! This engine is in the 65 coronet. I switched cams to a purple shaft 340 magnum grind. Lots of torque! I had the 360 in my purple barracuda for a few weekends and have a video of it.
Keep it up like the info got 360 r/t fakota and a 76 powerwagon wrecker so yeah keep it coming
You've got a great combo there!
Very helpful and precise vid,but and helpful note,the numbers of each cylinder are stamped into the rod and should face outward I believe. I’m a mopar super freak too. Keep building those mopar hearts that beat strong. Hanging pistons is always tedious work.
Thanks Judy. I always reference the chamfer of the rods, in relationship to the journals. I’ve seen stock Mopar rods with symbols stamped in. It’s a good practice to document the placement of rods when disassembled. Sometimes rods may get swapped around when balancing. Perhaps heaviest rod to lightest piston, etc.
The big end spit hole faces the cam
Awesome stuff,thanks for sharing Joe
Daveo Oldham thanks for following along! Hope your car fires off soon!
One more thing Joe, take a moment and measure your total drag by using a torque wrench and turning the assembly making note of the amount of force required . Semi dry cylinder, like pb blaster or kerosene. All pistons and rings installed. Nice work ! I’m just finishing up a Ford Boss 429. Total drag was 45 pounds/ feet.
That’s an old hotrodders trick! Good deal
This is an LA 360. Y’all check out my head porting videos if you can!
Awesome video, Joe! Can you maybe look into better sound quality? Some of your video is hard to hear
Thanks brother. I’ve gotten a couple different cameras since the 360 videos. Hopefully have it fixed.
Great job on these videos. I am new to building an engine and I have a question about the crank shaft oil slinger. I looked through your videos and I cannot find where you show installing it. I am guessing I just missed that or that it was such a small and quick install that you didn't put it in the video. I was just wanting to make sure that I know for sure which way it goes on. I am guessing that it is convex when looking at it installed on the engine. Am I correct in that assumption. Sorry but I would rather look dumb than install it wrong. Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching! Sorry for the bad camera quality. I’ve gotten better since then. Here’s that video. I would put the front cover on before oil pan if you can. th-cam.com/video/I_XjL8qJv18/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9FmRKed6oozM854d
If you dont have access to a good machine shop could you drill the hole and maybe sand for clearance on the wrist pin hole?
I believe you can carefully drill and chamfer the hole in the end of the rod. I think the machine shop has a small hone that they open the rods up with in order to make the pins full float.
Automotive rebuild shops use a Sunnen rod machine to make sure the small pin and the crank pin are Parallel !! Bet you can not drill that hole parallel...
I know on a two stroke you always put the wrist pin clips up and down because inertia can squeeze them together a bit and they can pop out. It does happen. On these maybe it doesn’t mater though cause there thicker and and don’t rev nearly as high?
I’d agree with that. If racing this engine, I’d run spiral locks.
Good job sir i see a lot of new and old school i would like to see a poor man's stock high performance video using stock components but the cam
That’s how I was taught! The 413 build series is exactly that. It got new rings, bearings, ported heads, one size smaller Lunati voodoo cam, and edelbrock performer rpm intake. It’s probably 8.0/1 compression, but pulls great! Hope you can check it out. It’s listed in my playlists .
Did you weigh and balance your rotating assembly - pistons , rods and crank? I was told by old timers and others that if you do that engine will last longer especially under high rpms
MOPAR MAN 1978 we must know the same old timers. Lol If this was a race engine I would have balanced it. It’s just a street mule. From my research, these pistons are lighter than the KB version, and doesn’t need the balance.
@@JustMoparJoe No problem 😎✌
@@JustMoparJoe Just a little insight, and you SHOULD be able to to find this in those books...
That crankshaft should be balanced front to rear as you purchased it. So that's out. A machine shop will balance the piston/rod, and acc. COMBO to the crank, HOWEVER!!!, you can individually balance them to each other. 8 pistons, 8 rods, without going the furthest step to the crank. A simple gram scale is all that's needed from wallyworld. That's what those fat rectangle pads are for on the big end of the rod. You'll also have them on the undersides of the pistons. File each down to match the lightest of the 8, in a nutshell. Youll have to account for the rings and wristpins/retainers when doing this, and can mix and match those as well to give you your most even starting point.
Edit: just so theres not confusion, the crankshaft comes balanced to a generic guesstimate "bob" weight to simulate an average expected rod/piston combo. Balancing the crank will add or remove weight based on whether your true bobweight(piston/rod/retainer, etc. Are lighter or heavier, but that's still independent of the piston/rod balancing I mentioned. They're related, but separate processes.
Garland Jones I agree. I actually did the balancing act you mentioned on a race 383 that I built. It was stock crank and rods with some high compression KB hyper pistons. That engine does very well bracket racing 20 weeks a year. When I do my 408 build, I’ll send it off to bullet cams to get balanced. Thanks again. If you think of anything else, my email is justmoparjoe@gmail.com. I’d like your take on the necessity of doing any oil mods on a sbm.
@@JustMoparJoe I had almost asked if I could contact you through email, so I'm stoked you brought it up. Ill definitely reach out to you soon, likely Sunday.
I've never done an engine rebuild and the Chrysler 360LA will be my first. These videos will be extremely valuable when I rebuild it. The only issue I have is I see 1 teeny difference when I look at rebuild kits online. One kit will say "4 inch bore" and the other one will say "4.030 inch bore". How do I know which one to get?
Good question! You’ll have your machinist check the bore when you bring in the block to get hot tanked. A standard bore is 4”. The 4.030 bore is the usual oversize when the block needs bored. The machine shop will check bore, let you know if you need pistons and any work done. I wouldn’t recommend buying the tools to check bore size if you don’t rebuild engines often.
@@JustMoparJoe Forgive me but what does hot tanking mean?
@@tinysupreme6417 not a problem! If I can answer I will. Basically it’s a hot chemical mixture that cooks all the sludge and nastiness from out of your freeze plug holes and oil galleys. Other shops have high heat washers and biodegradable solvents that are more Eco friendly.
@@JustMoparJoe Shit... I have a lot to learn lol. Thanks for your help!
@@tinysupreme6417 not a problem! Check out my 408 stroker stuff, and the Juan Carlos truck. Both are small blocks and both go together exactly the same.
So may be a dumb question, but when you order pistons do you give the weight of the factory pistons to get close or am I missing something? I had my engine bored and decked and was going to order pistons and bearings. I would like to save money where I can being a budget build, without cutting corners of course. Thanks
Basically you order and use them. It is really ideal to get the assembly balanced. You can weigh your stock pistons and try to match the aftermarkets to them, if you didn’t want to rebalance.
@@JustMoparJoe okay, ya that was what I was going to do. It’s not a race engine, only a street engine build with slightly more power. Thanks
RE: Floating rod pin, Mopar early Stock floating pin rods have a bronze bushing in the small end.....Hard metal to hard
metal, even with the oiling hole are likely prone to seize....
My machinist honed the rod end for .001-.0015 clearance for the pin. He also drills a small hole in the small end of the rod, and chamfers the end to debur it. We have over 2,000 passes on a a set of stock rods just like this in a 550 hp 440. Never seized. No issues. That’s why I am confident to promote it. I’ve seen it and field tested it.
I would also have to look at the expansion rate of each metal. Hard metals likely expand at the same rate. With proper clearance and good oil, there is no issue.
Hi I would like to know what cam intake heads you suggest for my 5.9 Magnum. To go on street and track my engine and stock. I have a 2003 Dakota R / T I don't want to touch the base thank you in advance
I would buy a good air gap style intake. You should check out 318willrun on TH-cam. He has a 360 magnum in his drag truck. He explains the exact combination he runs. The cam is an oregon regrind. They can grind you many different cans from a stock unit much cheaper than new.
Floating Pistons require less friction. They are self centering. They create less friction.
You've got the engine apart, balance the Pistons while you can, and in Balance the rods while you can. It's not that difficult of a job. And stock Chrysler Rod's work quite well up to about 900 horsepower. I've seen stock rods in a 440 Run can second times in under quite readily. At about 800 plus horsepower.
Does that engine have the same valve relief for intake and exhaust valves, or are you missing a step here?
It looks to me like your exhaust manifold valve releaf on the Piston is slightly smaller than the intake valve relief, which means they have to be oriented properly. However it's hard to tell because you don't show it clearly enough.
By the way, I meant to ask if you're so worried about scratching the bearings why are you applying assembly Lube with a freaking screwdriver instead of an acid brush?
I put together several Motors and add a day and a half. I've actually put one together in about 6 hours. I however already knew it was clean before I started.
I put Mopar engines together since the 1960s, and I've never heard of putting the ring Gap words the spark plug. As a matter of fact of anything I would put it away from the spark plug. I cannot even fathom what advantage you're getting by doing that. And at least 60 degrees difference between the gaps of the first two rings is more than adequate. I would check other number to rinks to see if you can find one that will be a little bit tighter than 20 thou. The second ring should actually be tighter than the first ring, as it is not subjected to quite the amount of heat.
44 Hawk thank you for watching my videos. As you probably heard, I am a novice engine builder. If this were an actual race engine, I would have had it balanced. These are cheap Speed pro pistons. They are lighter than the KB alternatives and most forums agree that they don't require balancing in this type of application. It will live 98% of it's life under 4,500 rpm. It hasn't had an issue. I reference the book in most videos, that's where the piston ring theory came from. I was hoping that this series would help other novice builders or Old professionals such as yourself, get out in your own garage and work on your projects. I hope to do a couple more engine build series like this this year. One with a stock style 413, and one with a Bracket 408 stroker. I've saved your comments.
Not nit-picking at all here, but, you said end-play is .002"-.007" "limit .010". The book actually states the lower limit, which is .001" (one 'thou). Wouldn't want anybody thinking they can get away with .010" on the street. It will work in a race motor that is gonna live at redline. Not so well on the street though.
wheelieking71 thanks man. I always forget those figures and I referenced the same small block Mopar book throughout the engine build series. You don’t think .001 is too tight? Wouldn’t that only leave .0005 between the crank and face of the throw out bearing? If there is a better book to reference, shoot me a link please. I’m building a 408 this year.
@@JustMoparJoe I definitely agree with you on .001 being too tight. But, in a street motor, .010 is too loose. Oil pressure will suffer at idle/low RPM. Race motor that idles around 1,500 and lives above 4k, it works just fine. I'm gathering parts to do a 438 (stroked 383) this year. Should be fun. I enjoy your videos! We need more old-school Mopar guys!
Almost a good engine... shit ass silvolight Pistons... go cast or go forged.. ive seen dozens of motors pop the top off the piston with those... SHOULD BE ILLEGAL TO SELL!!!!
I'll let you know if this one does! Thanks for the heads up!