I have had to go 1/4 turn past contact with shell holder. If I did not my bolt would be hard to close. Found this out the hard was as I set up just like video says to and loaded 30 rounds to find out my bolt was hard to close. After I made this adjustment i had no more problems.
I sure am glad I bought a match grade die set .. Now i get to search the web for numerous items it did not come with and the videos on how to use the extra items I did not even know I needed
Need to adjust downward another 1/4 turn after die hits the plate. Maybe I got a bad die or my AP is bad, either way I have to make this adjustment to get rounds to properly gauge and chamber.
I’m really conflicted Hornady! I’ve always seen the die screwed further once it’s met the ram. Lowering the ram and adding a 1/4 turn to have the ram cam over. pretty sure this is in the rcbs die box instructions too. Please answer this question! Someone else asked too. Is your method only for Hornady parts because that’s all I have. press, dies etc. everything is hornady.
i have the Hornady LNL progressive and I had to cam over 1/8-1/4 turn. I was getting hard bolt close & lift. about 1/8 turn MORE after the die touched solved the problem
Yes, I had to go 1/4 turn further after contact with shell holder. If I did not the bolt was hard to close on my rifle. I think he just forgot that very important step when he made this video.
The stupid spindle came out on the first round. Never had that problem with 8 other die sets from Lee and RCBS. And yes I tightened it with a wrench. No information in the instructions about resetting the spindle.
In the instructions it says to have the ram at its highest setting with out caming over. The ram reaches its highest point before the handle is pulled to its lowest point. If i set my die up like this video it pushed my shoulder back (30-06) beyound min SAMMI ?
If you cam-over, you'll be pressing the case a little *further* into the die and maybe setting the shoulder back a little too far. If you are really worried, back the die out a half turn after it contacts the shellholder and measure set back. If it isn't what you want, keep turning in 1/4 turn at a time until it is what you want, but be aware that case shoulders don't move all the way forward with just one firing. The shoulder may not be set back even if you lower all the way down to contact plus 1/4 turn. After second and third firing, keep checking to make sure you aren't setting the shoulder back too much.
@@robertbrandywine im not very good at writing what im thinking. What hornady does not make clear is the RAM is at its highest point BEFORE the handle is down. Hornady shows the handle all the way down and adjusting dies, IF tou do this you eather crush the shoulder or push it way back.
Teaching reloaders how to reset a case to SAAMI minimums is dangerous. It puts them on a path to experiencing case head separation. Too often I talk to people that have no idea what headspace is because those teaching reloading view the topic as too advanced. It's not.
I've always read that once you've gotten the die turned down to meet resistance with the ram you lift the ram up and turn the die again approx one half turn. Is this just a Hornady design? Or am I wrong with the way I was shown how to do it?
+Terranitup I'm with you, the bottom of the die should touch the shell holder at the highest position WITHOUT camming over. So that's why you would back it up 1/4 or 1/2 turn...to avoid pushing the shoulder back to far.
Terranitup keep an eye on the LNL bushing when he resizes the case.....it raises unite a bit.....you can turn these dies in, at small increments and nothing will happen.....once you do reach a point to affect a change, it is way to far..
I mean you can measure your shoulder before sizing and after sizing to see if it pushed back at all. Unless there is a serious issue with your die or press, I would think it’s impossible for the shoulder to be pushed back without the case getting sized right.
What happens when our die randomly starts holding the brass and we have to hammer the lever to get the brass out? I've already tried disassembling the die and cleaning it and the cases are lubed properly.
@@HidinRebel It used to be one. After spending over $10,000 and not getting anywhere without spending hundreds on advertising I gave up. Now I just use the account to watch and comment.
I am reloading 6.5 grendel and I still not getting full lock up on bolt and I tried multiple rifles. Tried 1/4 additional turn, and my hornady case gauge says that it should be good. I get full lock up with factory ammo. I had no other issues with my other reloads. Thinking about using a different die set, any recommendations?
I wo7ld suggest redding type s die I couldn't get hornady dies to work worth a shit with the decapping pin I stuck the first two cases in a row called hornady they pretty much said it couldn't be so, I couldn't the expander out so I hit it with a hammer turns out it was lock tight on there rcbs makes just as good as hornady for the same price
If only the directions that came with the die were this in depth, might not have jammed a case in my first one and be stuck waiting on one to be delivered now...
@@slayer324 Bottom of the casing snapped off after trying the stuck case kit, wasn't anything to drill and tap aside from the wall of the casing itself.
Not smooth at all I keep getting them stuck and I'm using the stupid Case lube four or five times already and I only have like less than 10 done I have no problem with the leaves dies but wow this horny sucks
I’m sorry this is terrible instruction and even dangerous. Do not just screw in until it hits the shell holder. You can WAY oversize your case this way to less than SAMI minimum spec. This video (5years ago) costs me a lot of good brass I ruined.
@@1GHOUL1 headspace is controlled by the shoulder with bottleneck rifle cartridges. If you do as described in this video there’s a chance you can push the shoulder back far too much, leading to excessive headspace.
The filming on this video is terrible you either need to zoom in or get a better camera or maybe even clean off the lense of the camera with rubbing alcohol,but i liked the video because im a big fan of your products.
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Absolutely the way an instructional video should be done.
Good job
This kind helped. Not for internal adjustment for the pin length. Got use two small channel locks .
I have had to go 1/4 turn past contact with shell holder. If I did not my bolt would be hard to close. Found this out the hard was as I set up just like video says to and loaded 30 rounds to find out my bolt was hard to close. After I made this adjustment i had no more problems.
I sure am glad I bought a match grade die set .. Now i get to search the web for numerous items it did not come with and the videos on how to use the extra items I did not even know I needed
Stick to playing guitar my friend.
@@darrellblanchard2362 well, unfortunately I am shooting 6.5prc and at minimum3 dollars a shot , I can reload them for about 2
@@darrellblanchard2362 really under appreciated reply haha
Need to adjust downward another 1/4 turn after die hits the plate. Maybe I got a bad die or my AP is bad, either way I have to make this adjustment to get rounds to properly gauge and chamber.
May have something to do with the bush he pushed in, mine was the same
Merci
Thank You! Its the grease I couldnt figure out.
Its been driving me nuts!
I’m really conflicted Hornady!
I’ve always seen the die screwed further once it’s met the ram. Lowering the ram and adding a 1/4 turn to have the ram cam over. pretty sure this is in the rcbs die box instructions too. Please answer this question!
Someone else asked too. Is your method only for Hornady parts because that’s all I have. press, dies etc. everything is hornady.
i have the Hornady LNL progressive and I had to cam over 1/8-1/4 turn. I was getting hard bolt close & lift. about 1/8 turn MORE after the die touched solved the problem
Yes, I had to go 1/4 turn further after contact with shell holder. If I did not the bolt was hard to close on my rifle. I think he just forgot that very important step when he made this video.
Thank you
You did not consider the cam-over of the ram. This can damage the die, the press or both!! Please correct this !!
Sure wish I would have way he's this video before getting my 308 case stuck.
I did the same thing with a .300 win mag case. The written directions that come with the dies are absolute garbage.
Case lube is your friend.
The stupid spindle came out on the first round. Never had that problem with 8 other die sets from Lee and RCBS. And yes I tightened it with a wrench. No information in the instructions about resetting the spindle.
In the instructions it says to have the ram at its highest setting with out caming over. The ram reaches its highest point before the handle is pulled to its lowest point.
If i set my die up like this video it pushed my shoulder back (30-06) beyound min SAMMI ?
If you cam-over, you'll be pressing the case a little *further* into the die and maybe setting the shoulder back a little too far. If you are really worried, back the die out a half turn after it contacts the shellholder and measure set back. If it isn't what you want, keep turning in 1/4 turn at a time until it is what you want, but be aware that case shoulders don't move all the way forward with just one firing. The shoulder may not be set back even if you lower all the way down to contact plus 1/4 turn. After second and third firing, keep checking to make sure you aren't setting the shoulder back too much.
Mac, I agree 100%.
@@robertbrandywine im not very good at writing what im thinking.
What hornady does not make clear is the RAM is at its highest point BEFORE the handle is down. Hornady shows the handle all the way down and adjusting dies, IF tou do this you eather crush the shoulder or push it way back.
Teaching reloaders how to reset a case to SAAMI minimums is dangerous. It puts them on a path to experiencing case head separation. Too often I talk to people that have no idea what headspace is because those teaching reloading view the topic as too advanced. It's not.
Does the case lube effect powder, only have used the case lube and the roll type pads for 30 years,
Seems to good to be true.
I’ve been using it for a while now and I really like it. I used to use the RCBS pad and lube but I now like the spray better.
I have a "New Dimension" match grade f/l sizer in .223 with a bushing inside. Where does it show that in the vid?
I've always read that once you've gotten the die turned down to meet resistance with the ram you lift the ram up and turn the die again approx one half turn.
Is this just a Hornady design? Or am I wrong with the way I was shown how to do it?
+Terranitup I'm with you, the bottom of the die should touch the shell holder at the highest position WITHOUT camming over. So that's why you would back it up 1/4 or 1/2 turn...to avoid pushing the shoulder back to far.
Just make sure that you resized it enough, That it goes into your Bolt Rifle smooth enough with no problems etc.
NBPrepper terranitup said turn in further into the press a 1/4 or 1/2 which is what I’ve always read
Terranitup keep an eye on the LNL bushing when he resizes the case.....it raises unite a bit.....you can turn these dies in, at small increments and nothing will happen.....once you do reach a point to affect a change, it is way to far..
I mean you can measure your shoulder before sizing and after sizing to see if it pushed back at all.
Unless there is a serious issue with your die or press, I would think it’s impossible for the shoulder to be pushed back without the case getting sized right.
What happens when our die randomly starts holding the brass and we have to hammer the lever to get the brass out? I've already tried disassembling the die and cleaning it and the cases are lubed properly.
call our customer service at 1-800-338-3220
you need to make that a channel. lol indoor outdoorsmen is funny
@@HidinRebel It used to be one. After spending over $10,000 and not getting anywhere without spending hundreds on advertising I gave up. Now I just use the account to watch and comment.
I am reloading 6.5 grendel and I still not getting full lock up on bolt and I tried multiple rifles. Tried 1/4 additional turn, and my hornady case gauge says that it should be good. I get full lock up with factory ammo. I had no other issues with my other reloads. Thinking about using a different die set, any recommendations?
I wo7ld suggest redding type s die I couldn't get hornady dies to work worth a shit with the decapping pin I stuck the first two cases in a row called hornady they pretty much said it couldn't be so, I couldn't the expander out so I hit it with a hammer turns out it was lock tight on there rcbs makes just as good as hornady for the same price
Better I believe
Redding is by far superior though
If only the directions that came with the die were this in depth, might not have jammed a case in my first one and be stuck waiting on one to be delivered now...
You do realize you can get the case out of the die??
@@slayer324 Not every time you can't, this was one of those times.
How so? Drill, Tap it , thread bolt in with a spacer and it will pop out. I’ve had to do this 3 times. Works every time
@@slayer324 Bottom of the casing snapped off after trying the stuck case kit, wasn't anything to drill and tap aside from the wall of the casing itself.
Oh so you messed up then. Having a stuck case isn’t a big deal as long as you don’t make it so. Oh well better luck next time.
Is the spindle supposed to be of center, because mine is. If not, how do I fix it?
Kaiyler, thanks for writing in. The spindle should be pretty well centered. Give our techs a call at 800-338-3220 if needed. Thanks!
This method doesn't help someone looking for accuracy and could shorten brass life considerably.
Explain
They make match grade dies chill.
When I measure the int neck size it says
.301...is this correct for 308
Neck size will be smaller and once you seat the bullet it expands
The ID of the case mouth measures
.301? What do you get if you measure your expander ball?
Would love to know why my .308 sizing die from hornady is binding up even after doing exactly this. Please explain this??????
Give our Customer service a call at 1-800-338-3220. They would be glad to help.
Me too
Try the one shot wax. Have had much better lock using this instead of the spray.
Same here…
How do you adjust for shoulder bump ????
Not smooth at all I keep getting them stuck and I'm using the stupid Case lube four or five times already and I only have like less than 10 done I have no problem with the leaves dies but wow this horny sucks
Too much case lube is bad too and can make the cases stick. Try imperial sizing wax instead.
@@belt1974123 that Hornady Case lube is great no problem since I switched
FIRST!!!!
I’m sorry this is terrible instruction and even dangerous. Do not just screw in until it hits the shell holder. You can WAY oversize your case this way to less than SAMI minimum spec. This video (5years ago) costs me a lot of good brass I ruined.
Whattt??? 😂😂😂😂😂
@@1GHOUL1 it’s not rocket science man. Doing this can lead to excessive headspace.
@@connerm4850 you’re right. It’s not rocket science. But tell my why 😂😂😂
Way oversized case??? Whattt???
@@1GHOUL1 headspace is controlled by the shoulder with bottleneck rifle cartridges. If you do as described in this video there’s a chance you can push the shoulder back far too much, leading to excessive headspace.
The filming on this video is terrible you either need to zoom in or get a better camera or maybe even clean off the lense of the camera with rubbing alcohol,but i liked the video because im a big fan of your products.