When sanding trim to be repainted by hand with 180 grit sponge. How much sanding do you do. To. Not overdue it. Or not enough. Few times back forth or several. ?
It's difficult to overdue it. I usually use 150 sandpaper and I probably go over an area with 3 passes back and forth. The surface should feel somewhat rough to the touch when you're done.
That comes down to personal preference. I’ve done it both ways and I like painting everything after the floors go in. Often there is new shoe molding installed after the new floor which needs to be caulked and painted.
I am in the process of fixing the baseboards in my house. New construction, but unfortunately whoever caulked and did the final paint on them looks like they were wearing an oven mit on their hand when applying the caulk. Its horrendous. Anyways. After removing all the excess and getting it back to "acceptable" - I am painting. I brushed today with SW Solo semi gloss and its brush mark city. I am going to sand it back down tomorrow and test my luck with SW Emerald Urethane Trim paint. Any advice in how "thick" to lay it on? Is it pointless to mix in some Floetrol to thin it out even more? I am practicing over and over on the same baseboard until I "figure it out" and move on to other areas in the house. I am debating trying to see how it looks rolled on too.
You’ll be able to get good results with emerald urethane without any additives. It has a generous open time unlike Solo which is hot garbage. One other thing that’ll help you out (I’m shooting this video currently) is to use a quality brush. A Corona Vegas is my favorite brush to pair with hybrid trim paints like Emerald Urethane and Advance. You can get them at most Benjamin Moore retailers. Keep at it and you’ll get it! Happy painting!
I have to prime over oil bas paint and do 2 coats. Is there a way to leave the tape in place until after the second coat without tearing away part of the first coat when removing the tape or do you have to tape for each coat (a lot of work)?
We just tape once with yellow frog tape. If you’re worried about the tape pulling the layers up then you can score it with a carpenters blade before you pull it.
You can actually use Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel for exterior work. We mostly use Benjamin Moore MoorGlo Soft Gloss for exterior work, but if you wanna go with SW then the Emerald Urethane is a solid option.
My current favorite is Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel in semi-gloss. It’s from Sherwin Williams and it’s what I used in this video. It’s what I currently use for pretty much all trim and doors.
Some painters do it that way and that’s totally cool. We do the ceilings and the trim first, then the walls last. It’s also a common way to paint a room and it works well for us and our workflow.
I've been painting over 50 years and here in the u k it's ceiling walls then door frames skirting boards ect you aways cut the skirting in to the walls not like this clowns doing he hasn't a clue.
Love all of your videos! Picked uo the SW urethane trim enamel at your recommendation but wondering, if i overpaint the trim onto the wall as you show here, will i need to sand that spot before painting the wall? Thanks for all your work!
You don't have to sand the wall where you got the trim paint on it. Just tape the top of the baseboard, do your top coats, pull tape, then you'll be good to go. We've got a video coming out on that process very soon!
It looks like you are painting the baseboard trim before you paint the walls. What are the benefits of doing it in that order? Great videos by the way.
We paint the ceiling and trim first. Then we tape the baseboard before we do the walls. It protects the baseboard from splatter and gives us clean lines.
Great video! I am replacing baseboards right now! I am painting them before I install them. Do you feel that's a good way to go about it when you can, or almost easier to paint them after they're on the wall? Obviously, still have to go back and fix nail holes and other imperfections, but thought I'd ask. Thanks!
People have mixed feelings about that process. I prefer to paint baseboard, or any trim for that matter, once it’s already installed. Wood putty, sand, then caulk and paint. For us, it doesn’t save any time to do a coat before hand. You can make a solid argument for staining and polying trim before it goes up, but that’s a different ball of wax
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thanks for your reply! As I work on my project, I'm starting to agree with you. After the nails holes, the marks from cutting on the Miter Saw, etc, there's just as much touch up to do as there would be to just paint them once installed on the wall! Great advice. Thanks, again!
It would be super helpful to see a close up of how thick you're applying the paint, as well as what the strokes look like when its still wet - and after its dried. I just tried painting a baseboard for the 3rd time with Emerald and I just keep getting brush strokes
I am working on that video right now. Keep in mind that the finish that you are currently applying is a "hand brushed" finish. There will be brush strokes but there are more and less aesthetically pleasing ways to lay down that finish.
When they installed my baseboards the nails are exposed. Am I supposed to spackle over the nails or just paint over them? They don’t look to great 😮any advice on how to cover the nails nicely?
If you watch the beginning of this video, then you’ll see me fill the nail holes with wood putty. Then we sand them with 150 or 220 grit then paint the baseboard. Take a look at the beginning of the video and you’ll see what I’m talking about.
It helps that you’re painting the same color. I’m trying to go from green to white and thinking it’s best to remove the baseboards because one coat probably won’t cover. won’t cover.
We pretty much always do 2 coats on all the trim and doors we paint. If you’re doing a big color shift I’d recommend priming with something like Fresh Start from Benjamin Moore then start applying your top coats. Even with the primer you’ll still be doing two top coats. That contributes to a really nice uniform finish.
Stupid question here 🙋🏻♂️ I see a lot of painters do this when painting trim after it’s installed when the walls will also be painted afterwards……. Wouldn’t the semi gloss that gets on the wall pose a problem with adhesion, etc., when the walls are going to be painted flat? I ask because I’m having a dilemma deciding whether or not to install casing and baseboard before or after it’s painted. It makes more sense to me to caulk, fill nail holes, and paint once instead of making more work but I’ll definitely get trim paint on the walls before they’re painted lol, and I’m using SW Emerald Loving the content btw, lots of great tips and advice, I never realized there was so much to it🤦🏻♂️
Not a stupid question at all good sir. We pretty much always paint the trim once it’s installed with emerald urethane semi-gloss then tape it with yellow frog tape. Then we paint into it with Emerald matte acrylic and we’ve never had an issue with adhesion. I’ve seen issues painting over top of oil but the hybrids interact fairly nicely with acrylics. Good luck with the rest of your project and thanks for watching!
Great video as im going through this now. Qhats your steps in having to paint wall and trim. Should i do 1 coat wall, install trim, caulk, paint trim and then 2nd coat on wall?
We do the ceilings and the trim first then the walls last. If you go back and look at our “how to paint a room” series you can see a bit more of our process.
Sadly i have not yet achieved the ability to paint base trim without using tape on the floor. Ive tried only to wind up cleaning up my mistakes. Its frustrating because life would be a lot simpler not having to tape. Im good with window and door trim,crown molding etc.. its just with base were it meets the floor. Its the angle that mess's me up. Lol! Sigh.....one of the days...😊
Nothing wrong with taping out the floor. We do it a lot to help mitigate the splatter from rolling the walls. If the drop cloths back out we still are covered for a few inches.
I’ve always learned that less paint is always easier to learn. Use a dryer brush and really use the tips of the bristles. Light pressure but you’re brush will almost ride the line with the right amount of paint/pressure. It’s something you will figure out overtime tho it’s all about the feel
Excellent video, as always. I’m priming previously-painted baseboards, and then top-coating with Scuff-X in satin. I have a question: What are the benefits of doing two topcoats? Does the second coat make the result more durable, or prolong the expected time before the brightness fades? Thanks!
Doing two topcoats makes it more likely that you’re getting complete coverage and a more uniform finish. That’s a big contributor to to the finish looking more “professional” and giving the paint the best chance at longevity. We do at least 2 coats on pretty much everything we paint.
Put a wet thin rag on a hand edger/putty knife, slap on the paint and try your best not to touch the floor but if you do you simply wipe it off quickly with the rag and putty knife combo.
I am doing 5 1/2" craftsman and no matter what it is a huge PITA. I wish I could pre-paint, cut and done but that is not realistic. Caulking like this guy shows, repainting the wall after cut in etc etc. Very time consuming The tape on the floor method will not work for some flooring, especially when it is grained or not smooth. The paint will travel under the tape no matter what I did. I used a 24" drywall blade and shoved it under the floor and molding but not possible in all spots and barely possible in the spots it worked. No matter what you do, this is the WORST part and definitely the worst part of my remodel....bathrooms, drywall, demo....this part just fkng sucks😜
Hahaha, I’m sorry man. Baseboards can be a challenge. A lot of the time I don’t tape and I just free-hand it if the floors tricky. Just like with anything you get faster with more reps. Also, for our process we do the ceiling and trim first and the walls last.
Nah, you didn’t eff up. That’s the other common way to paint a room. You’ll just have to cut a starting line on the top of your trim. If you’re having an issue with that, then you can do it like we did in this video, let it dry, tape it out, the use a little wall paint up against the tape to get your straight line. You’re all good either way 🫡
Ya its no problem. If you can cut a straight line, you can cut in some base paint without tape. I just did it this way touching up a bathroom i replaced the shower in. After the drywall and blending in the texture i wanted the walls coated to protect the work. I had to silicone the shower and didnt want to get soap spray on the bare patch and texture. After installing and caulking the base im about to go paint the base. I painted one small section last friday and didnt like the bleed through on the blue painters tape on the floor. So figured i would give a look see and im seeing the frog tape! I know where some is for free (dads garage)! I hand cut in the top and it looks great. I didnt want to hand work 2 edges as im trying to do a good looking job on the base and need to work with some speed and minimal brushing to get a good look.
Very boring video he never even showed his final results very disappointed I want 5 minutes of my life back never even said what he used all around just bad.
I can’t tell if you’re joking or not. The carpenters installed shoe molding after the new floor went in. That’s usually how that goes. We just prepped and painted it.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Oh, you are just painting, not GC doing millwork and painting. I much prefer the floor be installed with a better tolerance to the wall, so the shoe is not needed to hide the floor edge; and I prefer a baseboard/wall base that is scribed to the floor, so the shoe is not needed to hide a gap with the floor.
I was taught to paint without it. It makes things alot easier to use it, but it also kills time. I think it i start my own business, I'll still use tape, because im already prepping and sanding walls and baseboards anyway. Customers like seeing the tape up as well, but for the guys that can't make a straight line yet, this tape will save your line, and you can work a little faster. I personally find it easier to do the baseboards last. I cut my line alot better finishing with the trim. I never have to go back and straighten anything up. Thats just my preference...
There are a lot of methods that get the job done. It's becoming more common for guys to do the trim first then tape into it. Especially if they spray all the trim first. As long as it looks good when you're done, then it's all good!
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I’ve watched several of your videos. Loved em all. Bought all the gear and recommended paint. Wow. Amazing results. THANK YOU !
I’m glad they’ve been helpful! Thanks for watching 🫡
When sanding trim to be repainted by hand with 180 grit sponge. How much sanding do you do. To. Not overdue it. Or not enough. Few times back forth or several. ?
It's difficult to overdue it. I usually use 150 sandpaper and I probably go over an area with 3 passes back and forth. The surface should feel somewhat rough to the touch when you're done.
When installing new floors. Should you paint the walls and trim before or after floors ?
That comes down to personal preference. I’ve done it both ways and I like painting everything after the floors go in. Often there is new shoe molding installed after the new floor which needs to be caulked and painted.
Great video thanks! Do you recommend using a primer or sanding to ensure the paint adheres?
If you use a good quality paint, you should be fine without primer. Unless the baseboards are old and beat up or a color
Most baseboard comes pre-primed so there’s no need to prime it. Two coats and you’re good to go.
I am in the process of fixing the baseboards in my house. New construction, but unfortunately whoever caulked and did the final paint on them looks like they were wearing an oven mit on their hand when applying the caulk. Its horrendous.
Anyways. After removing all the excess and getting it back to "acceptable" - I am painting. I brushed today with SW Solo semi gloss and its brush mark city. I am going to sand it back down tomorrow and test my luck with SW Emerald Urethane Trim paint. Any advice in how "thick" to lay it on? Is it pointless to mix in some Floetrol to thin it out even more?
I am practicing over and over on the same baseboard until I "figure it out" and move on to other areas in the house. I am debating trying to see how it looks rolled on too.
You’ll be able to get good results with emerald urethane without any additives. It has a generous open time unlike Solo which is hot garbage. One other thing that’ll help you out (I’m shooting this video currently) is to use a quality brush. A Corona Vegas is my favorite brush to pair with hybrid trim paints like Emerald Urethane and Advance. You can get them at most Benjamin Moore retailers.
Keep at it and you’ll get it! Happy painting!
@@SuperVassarBrothers Good to hear. Thanks for the reply. I wonder why the builder went with SOLO for the doors and trim. Oh well.
I have to prime over oil bas paint and do 2 coats. Is there a way to leave the tape in place until after the second coat without tearing away part of the first coat when removing the tape or do you have to tape for each coat (a lot of work)?
We just tape once with yellow frog tape. If you’re worried about the tape pulling the layers up then you can score it with a carpenters blade before you pull it.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Okay, thank you for your advice.
Hey! What SW paint would you recommend for an exterior metal door, semi-gloss in a light color? For the wood trim as well but in white.
You can actually use Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel for exterior work. We mostly use Benjamin Moore MoorGlo Soft Gloss for exterior work, but if you wanna go with SW then the Emerald Urethane is a solid option.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks! SW is in town and the nearest BM store is over 30 minutes away.
Is there a specific kind of paint you use for base board ?
My current favorite is Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel in semi-gloss. It’s from Sherwin Williams and it’s what I used in this video. It’s what I currently use for pretty much all trim and doors.
why would you not paint the baseboards last after the wall was painted?
Some painters do it that way and that’s totally cool. We do the ceilings and the trim first, then the walls last. It’s also a common way to paint a room and it works well for us and our workflow.
I just painted my home. Tried both ways. Definitely easier and better to do the trim FIRST!
Did you use oil based paint?
Emerald urethane trim enamel
How many coats of paint do you recommend?
2
Hi, what's your go to for Trim Paint please INTERIOR
Currently it’s Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel in semi-gloss.
th-cam.com/video/ZjENP6httxg/w-d-xo.html
@@SuperVassarBrothers Ty , your videos have been very helpful 😊
Helpful video. Helped to confirm for me the order to paint (ceiling, trim, walls.) Thanks for sharing.
That’s how we do it and I’m glad you found it helpful!
I've been painting over 50 years and here in the u k it's ceiling walls then door frames skirting boards ect you aways cut the skirting in to the walls not like this clowns doing he hasn't a clue.
Love all of your videos! Picked uo the SW urethane trim enamel at your recommendation but wondering, if i overpaint the trim onto the wall as you show here, will i need to sand that spot before painting the wall? Thanks for all your work!
You don't have to sand the wall where you got the trim paint on it. Just tape the top of the baseboard, do your top coats, pull tape, then you'll be good to go. We've got a video coming out on that process very soon!
@@SuperVassarBrothers awesome! Thanks for your response. You're the best!!
It looks like you are painting the baseboard trim before you paint the walls. What are the benefits of doing it in that order? Great videos by the way.
We paint the ceiling and trim first. Then we tape the baseboard before we do the walls. It protects the baseboard from splatter and gives us clean lines.
Great video! I am replacing baseboards right now! I am painting them before I install them. Do you feel that's a good way to go about it when you can, or almost easier to paint them after they're on the wall? Obviously, still have to go back and fix nail holes and other imperfections, but thought I'd ask. Thanks!
People have mixed feelings about that process. I prefer to paint baseboard, or any trim for that matter, once it’s already installed. Wood putty, sand, then caulk and paint. For us, it doesn’t save any time to do a coat before hand. You can make a solid argument for staining and polying trim before it goes up, but that’s a different ball of wax
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thanks for your reply! As I work on my project, I'm starting to agree with you. After the nails holes, the marks from cutting on the Miter Saw, etc, there's just as much touch up to do as there would be to just paint them once installed on the wall! Great advice. Thanks, again!
Do you then tape off the baseboard and paint the wall ?
Yes indeed. We do the ceiling and trim first then tape the baseboard and do the walls last.
So can I be sloppy on the top side with Emerald Polyurethane Trim and still paint back over it with latex?
Yes indeed. We do it all the time
It would be super helpful to see a close up of how thick you're applying the paint, as well as what the strokes look like when its still wet - and after its dried.
I just tried painting a baseboard for the 3rd time with Emerald and I just keep getting brush strokes
I am working on that video right now. Keep in mind that the finish that you are currently applying is a "hand brushed" finish. There will be brush strokes but there are more and less aesthetically pleasing ways to lay down that finish.
Putting a little Floetrol in the paint may help some but yeah you're gonna have some brush marks when using a brush. No biggie
When they installed my baseboards the nails are exposed. Am I supposed to spackle over the nails or just paint over them? They don’t look to great 😮any advice on how to cover the nails nicely?
If you watch the beginning of this video, then you’ll see me fill the nail holes with wood putty. Then we sand them with 150 or 220 grit then paint the baseboard. Take a look at the beginning of the video and you’ll see what I’m talking about.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you 🙏🏼
It helps that you’re painting the same color. I’m trying to go from green to white and thinking it’s best to remove the baseboards because one coat probably won’t cover. won’t cover.
We pretty much always do 2 coats on all the trim and doors we paint. If you’re doing a big color shift I’d recommend priming with something like Fresh Start from Benjamin Moore then start applying your top coats. Even with the primer you’ll still be doing two top coats. That contributes to a really nice uniform finish.
@@SuperVassarBrothers I went ahead and removed them. Should make easier to sand and paint. Thanks for the tip on primer.
Stupid question here 🙋🏻♂️
I see a lot of painters do this when painting trim after it’s installed when the walls will also be painted afterwards……. Wouldn’t the semi gloss that gets on the wall pose a problem with adhesion, etc., when the walls are going to be painted flat?
I ask because I’m having a dilemma deciding whether or not to install casing and baseboard before or after it’s painted. It makes more sense to me to caulk, fill nail holes, and paint once instead of making more work but I’ll definitely get trim paint on the walls before they’re painted lol, and I’m using SW Emerald
Loving the content btw, lots of great tips and advice, I never realized there was so much to it🤦🏻♂️
Not a stupid question at all good sir. We pretty much always paint the trim once it’s installed with emerald urethane semi-gloss then tape it with yellow frog tape. Then we paint into it with Emerald matte acrylic and we’ve never had an issue with adhesion. I’ve seen issues painting over top of oil but the hybrids interact fairly nicely with acrylics. Good luck with the rest of your project and thanks for watching!
@@SuperVassarBrothers awesome! Thank you🙏🏻
Great video as im going through this now. Qhats your steps in having to paint wall and trim. Should i do 1 coat wall, install trim, caulk, paint trim and then 2nd coat on wall?
We do the ceilings and the trim first then the walls last. If you go back and look at our “how to paint a room” series you can see a bit more of our process.
Sadly i have not yet achieved the ability to paint base trim without using tape on the floor. Ive tried only to wind up cleaning up my mistakes. Its frustrating because life would be a lot simpler not having to tape. Im good with window and door trim,crown molding etc.. its just with base were it meets the floor. Its the angle that mess's me up. Lol! Sigh.....one of the days...😊
Nothing wrong with taping out the floor. We do it a lot to help mitigate the splatter from rolling the walls. If the drop cloths back out we still are covered for a few inches.
I’ve always learned that less paint is always easier to learn. Use a dryer brush and really use the tips of the bristles. Light pressure but you’re brush will almost ride the line with the right amount of paint/pressure. It’s something you will figure out overtime tho it’s all about the feel
Excellent video, as always. I’m priming previously-painted baseboards, and then top-coating with Scuff-X in satin. I have a question: What are the benefits of doing two topcoats? Does the second coat make the result more durable, or prolong the expected time before the brightness fades? Thanks!
Doing two topcoats makes it more likely that you’re getting complete coverage and a more uniform finish. That’s a big contributor to to the finish looking more “professional” and giving the paint the best chance at longevity. We do at least 2 coats on pretty much everything we paint.
Do you have to worry about leaving that tape down long enough for the second coat or do you do a tape line again? Thank you.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks!!
Great video keep them coming.
Thanks! I’m working on it 🫡
Why not tape the top to so u don’t have to touch up the wall or is the wall getting painted to
The wall is getting painted as well. When we do full repaints we do the ceiling and the trim first, then do the walls last.
Put a wet thin rag on a hand edger/putty knife, slap on the paint and try your best not to touch the floor but if you do you simply wipe it off quickly with the rag and putty knife combo.
That works too!
What's the missing tip?
Make sure you paint baseboards whilst listening to upbeat techno music
WTF with the music??? 😂
We’re working on it
This feels very Nintendo-esque.
That’s what we’re going for 🤙
@ Then, Mission accomplished! 👍
I am doing 5 1/2" craftsman and no matter what it is a huge PITA. I wish I could pre-paint, cut and done but that is not realistic. Caulking like this guy shows, repainting the wall after cut in etc etc. Very time consuming
The tape on the floor method will not work for some flooring, especially when it is grained or not smooth. The paint will travel under the tape no matter what I did. I used a 24" drywall blade and shoved it under the floor and molding but not possible in all spots and barely possible in the spots it worked.
No matter what you do, this is the WORST part and definitely the worst part of my remodel....bathrooms, drywall, demo....this part just fkng sucks😜
Hahaha, I’m sorry man. Baseboards can be a challenge. A lot of the time I don’t tape and I just free-hand it if the floors tricky. Just like with anything you get faster with more reps. Also, for our process we do the ceiling and trim first and the walls last.
More like, how to paint the wall above your baseboard
We do the walls last which is common
DONT BE STUPID!! WALLS ARE OBVIOUSLY GETTING PAINTED TOO DUMMY
It’s a renovation and you’re supposed to do the baseboards first before the walls you jabroni
Right? I find it much easier to tape the top than I do the bottom of the baseboard
It’s proper technique to paint trim before walls after taping off the trim. If you don’t have some overlap under the tape you won’t get a good line.
I fked up and did the walls before the trim so you can imagine how my day is going…. 🥴
Nah, you didn’t eff up. That’s the other common way to paint a room. You’ll just have to cut a starting line on the top of your trim. If you’re having an issue with that, then you can do it like we did in this video, let it dry, tape it out, the use a little wall paint up against the tape to get your straight line. You’re all good either way 🫡
Ya its no problem. If you can cut a straight line, you can cut in some base paint without tape. I just did it this way touching up a bathroom i replaced the shower in. After the drywall and blending in the texture i wanted the walls coated to protect the work. I had to silicone the shower and didnt want to get soap spray on the bare patch and texture. After installing and caulking the base im about to go paint the base. I painted one small section last friday and didnt like the bleed through on the blue painters tape on the floor. So figured i would give a look see and im seeing the frog tape! I know where some is for free (dads garage)!
I hand cut in the top and it looks great. I didnt want to hand work 2 edges as im trying to do a good looking job on the base and need to work with some speed and minimal brushing to get a good look.
No amount of good painting can make up for the poor carpentry job on this site!!!
Caulk and paint make it what it ain’t homie 🤙
Very boring video he never even showed his final results very disappointed I want 5 minutes of my life back never even said what he used all around just bad.
🫡
You installed a shoe. That tells me you’re not advanced enough for the results I’m seeking.
I can’t tell if you’re joking or not. The carpenters installed shoe molding after the new floor went in. That’s usually how that goes. We just prepped and painted it.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Oh, you are just painting, not GC doing millwork and painting. I much prefer the floor be installed with a better tolerance to the wall, so the shoe is not needed to hide the floor edge; and I prefer a baseboard/wall base that is scribed to the floor, so the shoe is not needed to hide a gap with the floor.
@@dojoswitzernobody asked what your preference is lol
@@joshgutierrez7380 Nobody asked for your preference for the types of comments and replies left here.
@@joshgutierrez7380 I’m an architect, so my preference probably makes more difference than yours.
I was taught to paint without it. It makes things alot easier to use it, but it also kills time. I think it i start my own business, I'll still use tape, because im already prepping and sanding walls and baseboards anyway. Customers like seeing the tape up as well, but for the guys that can't make a straight line yet, this tape will save your line, and you can work a little faster. I personally find it easier to do the baseboards last. I cut my line alot better finishing with the trim. I never have to go back and straighten anything up. Thats just my preference...
There are a lot of methods that get the job done. It's becoming more common for guys to do the trim first then tape into it. Especially if they spray all the trim first. As long as it looks good when you're done, then it's all good!