Affiliate link: Discount code BRADCAGLE for $50 off at Signature Solar ($500 min purchase) EG4 6000XP at Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/?ref=JRZm6fna41pidY EG4 6000XP 12kW Bundle: signaturesolar.com/eg4-12kw-off-grid-split-phase-inverter-bundle-2-x-6000xp-12000w-output-48v-120-240v-split-phase-all-in-one-solar-inverter-system-bndl-e6000-2/?ref=JRZm6fna41pidY Amazon Affiliate links: Hydraulic Crimper: amzn.to/3MC5AHs Tinned Copper Lugs: amzn.to/3WiPB45 Hammer Crimper: amzn.to/3InPFKj 2awg cable: amzn.to/3OnBZmd Li Time MINI Battery 100Ah: amzn.to/3ZG8kXn ================ AFFILIATE DISCLOSURE: This channel may earn an affiliate commission if you purchase products through links I provide. ================ CONTACT: bradcagleyt@gmail.com Business/Collaboration only. Please do not contact me for for personal project help, or advice. ================ DISCLAIMER: These videos are documenting my own projects, and experiences. These projects, and activities can be dangerous. Do not try any of this at home, doing so will be at your own risk.
Its cool that you are doing the reviews and all but one of my best friends has been having a hard time with signature solar. He spent a lot of money with them but they don't help much with issues he has. I guess it's like a lot of businesses these days. I think their kinda overwhelmed at the help desk.
@@matthewknight5641 Bummer, sorry to hear that for your friend. Hope he gets it worked out. I do know what you mean though, I have a hard time getting through to companies these days myself. I have one place I've been trying to cancel an order, and have yet to speak to a human.
@@BradCagle bro I've tried getting a hold of them at big battery to buy 4 of those high amp relays. A couple months I tried but no success still in getting them ordered. It was a deal for 25 bucks cause those contractors are expensive. Seems a lot of companies are growing faster than they can keep up.
@@BradCagle hey Brad I was wondering if you know anything about the federal tax credit stuff? I heard I had to buy some new panels to get the credit. If you know how it works let me know please
I've been following this space, building batteries and complete systems from components for the last couple of years. In my opinion, this unit creates the perfect entry point for folks who want to start "small", but grow their system to eventually have a fairly large 240 volt split phase solution. I have a very strong suspicion that I will own at least two of these, in the near future.
I feel this is perfect for me and what I want to go with. My goal is to set up a critical loads panel and move some of my loads over to it fed split phase via this unit. For now I don't need any bigger than a 6kW inverter. Throw two 48v 100Ah server rack batteries on it and 2kW of solar and you're good to go.
Yeah, that's pretty much what I've been doing over the years, and yup, this thing seems great for that. No pushing back to the grid, and If you use all your PV/Batt power up, it just switches to your grid. If they let me keep this one, i'll certainly run my whole garage on it :)
Im also using luxpower inverters. Sna5000 models. Both of them is using around 60 watts each on standby. So I would say for this bigger models it's not bad standby consumption
Just pulled the trigger on this set up 🤙🏻 anxiously awaiting to see your set up with it and what you do, been enjoying your channel an keep up the great work!
This thing looks like a nice step up from the Growatt 5000es or other EG4 6000/6500w inverters. Obviously for it's native split phase functionality but just seems like a better unit. One thing I've been mentioning to people is that these units that blow air across circuit boards are bound to gum up over the years. The low idle consumption sure is nice. It's a little bit lower idle consumption than the Megarevo I've been using. I should check the consumption with different firmware versions to see if they've brought it down!
Hey there! I totally agree with you, the EG4 6000XP All-in-one Split Phase 6000w Inverter seems like a better unit compared to the Growatt 5000es. However, have you checked out the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series? It's a versatile powerhouse with a massive 5kWh capacity, fast recharging, and a durable and waterproof design. It could be a great addition to your outdoor gear and home backup power setup. Just a suggestion!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I just bought one too and should be here any day now. Seems all the reviews so far have been good so I'm feeling better. If it works I'll buy a 2nd one to get the power I need. Thanks again.
A split-phase seems best for my plan to connect the output to an existing sub-panel which supplies my kitchen, living room, garage, plus a 240 VAC outlet for a former electric dryer (now gas) which could power an EV charger. One question. When it switches to grid-power, because the panels can't provide sufficient output, does that add to the solar output? If not, is the solar output switched to charging the batteries or just goes unused?
I started out with the hybrid 3000 watt all in one inverter but after all the problems with the grounding when it switched between battery and ac input I just went to the 4000 watt sungold low frequency which don't have the grounding issues. I finally figured out the all in one but it's not half the inverter as the sungold
Yeah, that's why I've waited so long because IMO these AIO's were not good as having individual/discreet components. Looks like they are catching up. Thanks!
@@BradCagle if you have the AC input hooked up on that inverter is there anything weird happening when it switches from battery to grid. I mean with your neutral ground bond? Mine would trip the GFCI at my house where the AC input was plugged into the inverter if I had my inverters neutral grounded. If I didn't have it bonded it would make my fridge motor sound weird and the furnace motor sounded weak. I now just use that inverter as a battery charger and it's great for that.
So, in theory, I only need battery input and generator input to make this thing work. No grid power necessarily needed to get it to output general 120v usage.
would be nice go see how it does with induction loads on 240v like a home ac unit, and on 120v ac air compressor if it can start one up. that will be neat to see.
A clothes dryer uses both inductive load as well as resistence load (motor and heating element). Average load for a modern home central a/c is anywhere from 2 amps to 18 amps depending on size. I say modern because DOE requirements have forced makers to use more efficient components/designs in recent years. In the old days a central a/c could use 25 amps or more while running. Plus too, the age of the equipment also determines the condition of bearings which, as they wear, draw more amps due to resistence to spin. If you use a clamp meter to measure the amp draw on each leg and add them together you will get the actual load. Or you can rely on the printed run load on the name plate. These inverters account for start up load by giving you around the double the rated output for a few seconds before overloading. Hope that helps.
I own a 6500... Trying to decide if I should trade it in for the 6000xp or keep the 6500... I've never setup the 6500, bought it and was bout to and this 6000xp shows up and they discontinue the 6500, so now I'm in a middle zone not knowing which way to go
So, I’m a total newbie to backup power systems and it seems like it would be a little less expensive to DIY my own backup system. Would server rack batteries be the more efficient a cost effective way to go with this unit? I’ve calculated roughly $3,500 for the setup with two 48v server rack batteries. Is there a little less expensive (but as effective) battery to go with? Great channel, btw!
For my eg4 6000, and two batteries; Is it possible that when my batteries are filled up. I can stop using the battery power, and just switch over to the grid or just PV power, and preserve my battery power for when i need it?
A lot of people have been asking on other forums whether this will work with only 120v input from the grid or generator. No one seem to have an answer. Wondering if you can do a test. Thanks
Hey, I was wondering that myself. I cant image that it could switch/bypass to grid like that, but maybe it can charge the battery? I'll give it a shot.
These types of inverters use about 50 watts just being on? Is there a way to run this on a separate battery system so it doesnt drain the main battery bank?
can you just run the 6000xp load wires to a 30 or 50amp power outlet box and charge your EV by plugging in your charging cable to the outlet? You wouldn't need a load center with breakers if it's just that 1 item being used ever right since the 6000xp has it's own ac breaker already? also since the 6000xp only outputs 240v 17-25A on ac whether you use a 30/50amp outlet you should be good well under the max right?
The AC breaker on the 6000xp seems to be a 50a, and in the manual it calls for 8awg wire to be used. So I would think if you run proper 8awg copper wire to a 50a 240v outlet (like a nema 14-50) it should be good. Now I'm not a electrician so do not take my word for it :) Always consult with a licensed electrician in your area. Thanks!
Been watching for new videos on this inverter. My main concern is idle consumption. The spec sheet lists several different values, but doesn't explain the conditions under which they are tested. I would love to know what the total consumption would be in actual service over time. I had a 6500EX-48 and returned it because of the idle consumption. I now have a Victron MultiPlus II. It is rated at 11W at idle, but averaging all the input power from the grid & PV and subtracting the load power over a 3 week period of varying sun, it uses an average of 22W/hr. This takes into account inverter losses, charger losses, MPPT losses etc. It's a very good number, but it's a complex system and I believe in KISS. I would have to add a 2nd one to get 240V and 6000W, and that would double my consumption, so I'm open to the 6000XP as a simpler and less expensive option if the overall daily consumption is similar.
Yeah, it's not always so cut, and dry. I would say the idle is pretty reasonable now after the firmware update, better than any other AIO. Now It's does seem to have a bit higher overhead on the MPPT. That being said I don't have that much PV on it just yet, so that overhead might be much smaller when the system has more PV. Thanks!
Great question. So short answer is no, 4 100Ah batteries in series would still be 100Ah. Long answer, batteries in series the voltage increases, and the amps stay the same. Batteries in parallel the amps increase but the voltage stays the same. In series 4 100Ah 12.8v batteries = 51.2v@100Ah (commonly referred to as 48v). In parallel 4 100Ah 12.8v batteries = 12.8v@400Ah. Now here's another thing people get confused about, they think 400Ah is always more capacity. Not true 12.8v@400Ah is exactly the same capacity as 51.2@100Ah. Here's the math 12.8v x 400Ah = 5120Wh, and 51.2v x 100Ah = 5120Wh. You see Wh (Watt Hours) is the best measurement of energy storage. Hope that helps. Thanks.
It really wants a battery with communications, and looks like it supports much more than EG4 batteries. However It seems fine using Lead-Acid type setting with these mini LiFeP04 batteries I have hooked up. In this mode you get charge voltage, and float voltage settings, I don't see any other old school lead settings like temp compensation, or equalization. So really seems ok, but I haven't used it enough to know if anything strange will pop up. Thanks!
Question: You mentioned that you "re-enabled the Power Save function." Do this imply that after shutting down the inverter, all settings revert to default? Or do they "stick?"
This sounds like the unit I have been looking for. I have been wanting to take my well off grid. What was the inrush current when you started your dryer?
Yeah this one seems to be very nice indeed. I didn't measure, I need to see if I have a clamp meter that will measure inrush. I'll let you know. Thanks!
Generally speaking the start up amperage is 3-5 times the RLA (run load amperage) on motors. So if your well pump draws, let's say 5 amps at RLA it would draw anywhere from 15 to 25 amps at start up but only for a short time. In rush doesn't apply to your motor. With a pump motor you're dealing with LRA (locked rotor amperage) at start up. Now "inrush" pertains to resistance devices (heating element) and is generally 2-3 times the normal 'run' amperage. Hope that helps. I spent a lifetime dealing with these in the mechanical contracting business.
I didn't see it. However I think Will Prowse got it working on lithium setting without communication . I think he said he set everything to voltage charging, instead of the default SOC based charging. I'm going to play with that this weekend. I'll have a follow up video coming. Thanks.
@@BradCagle Thanks. I appreciate all your videos. I am just not a fan of the server rack batteries, and it seems like EG4 always have communication problems. I like the idea of their waterproof 48 volt batteries because they are 85 lb and have a 200 amp BMS.
Is a slave 6000XP capable of having an external grid power hookup that’s different from the grid hookup on the primary? I’d like to hook the grid power to the primary to keep my batteries charged but if I loose grid power, I’d like to be able to charge the batteries from a generator port hooked up to the slave 6000XP Is this configuration possible?
if i use this in my 30amp(120v only) camper, will i only be able to use 3000w? or will it push over 3k on 120? camper goes up to 3600w and i need all of that lol
does anyone think this inverter would be a bad idea for a moving vehicle? like an RV, skoolie, Van, etc.? I have not seen any videos of this inverter in a moving vehicle, why is that?
@@BradCagle Cool, how can average schmucks like us do reviews for 'complimentary' products too? Did you do reviews for paid products 1st to get a following?
@@InVinoVeritas. I had to put in about 1 year of work, and video content before anyone would give the time of day. So start a channel do a bunch of videos, you'll have a lot of out of pocket expenses, build a subscriber base. Eventually you'll get free stuff for reviews. However it's still a lot of work, so it's really not all that free in the end. Thanks
@@jonphanspromotions The voltage in the US is 240v with a neutral. Which gives you 120v (L1 to neutral), 120v (L2 to neutral), and L1 to L2 give 240v . This is what this inverter does.
@@jonphanspromotions Watch from here: th-cam.com/video/26-TJb3sBNg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jyQgH2vALXxlBksd&t=407 I get 240v, and 120v running L1 (or L2) to neutral.
Anyone that can help me please reply I just want to start with my heating and fridge to run off batteries. I live in Maryland and not sunny every day. So how many batteries would I need
That's impossible for us to tell you without you telling us a lot about your house, equipment, it's energy draw, your assumptions (& definitions regarding what's 'comfortable', affordable), etc. You likely should either spend time learning how to calculate these issues yourself or spend money on a reputable professional...
I helped a off grid old timer order one of these 6000xp inverters and it’s the wrong inverter for him. He is never going to want to learn how to use it it or set it. I should have ordered a big low frequency boat anchor of a inverter with no fancy bells and whistles. Even techy people are challenged to setup these new inverters. I’m not sure I’m techy enough without many hours of messing with the settings.
I would never connect a high frequency, transformerless inverter to the major appliances in my home. High frequency inverter offer a wimpy 2X surge capacity and during a catastrophic failure of the H-bridge circuit, without an output transformer to isolate the battery from the AC output, a high frequency inverter can damage and even set an appliance on fire. If you want to power your whole house with solar, a far better alternative is to invest less money and purchase a hybrid, low frequency, transformer based inverter charger and an LFP battery and assemble your own real solar generator. Low frequency transformer based solar generators last many years longer than these high frequency inverters, and can easily power high surge loads without being damaged and without damaging your appliances. That's why the big name brand inverter manufacturers like Schneider Electric, Outback Power, Sigineer, Victron and others, all use a low frequency topology in their offerings.
I've used high frequency inverters for years, and have had no problems. Most things are moving to high frequency these days. All micro inverters are HF, as with all the Tesla equipment. HF tech continues to get better all them time, the market demands HF because of the cost, size, and weight savings. BTW HF inverters do offer isolation via the smaller transformers in the DC section. The real difference is you're stepping up the voltage on the DC side, rather than stepping up the voltage on the AC side with a large transformer.
Micro inverters are used solely for grid tie applications and as such, they are not subject to inductive surges. And Tesla does not use low cost Chinese made MOSFETs or IGBTs in their builds. And high frequency inverters do not isolate the DC input from the AC output, because while they do use small transformers (inductors) coupled with capacitors to step up the DC voltage, this stage of a high frequency inverter still passes this DC current through to the H-bridge circuit which can be passed on to the AC loads during a failure of the AC output monitoring circuitry coupled with a catastrophic short to ground of one of the MOSFETs in the H-bridge circuit. The only way to guaranty that an inverter will not pass DC current to the AC loads is to use an iron core, copper wound isolation transformer at the AC output. . @@BradCagle
@@solarcharging9743 You cannot get battery DC voltage to the AC output. You could theoretically get the HF switched high voltage DC across to the AC if a MOSFET shorts yes. However the high voltage DC section should be shut down if some anomaly was detected. The whole system has a feedback loop to adjust the voltage on the fly depending on the load. Look at the topology of the HF section of these inverters. It's not a typical boost converter with inductors like you're thinking, they actually use transformers, and it's fully isolated. Just like an isolated dc/dc converter. It can use transformers in the DC section because it pulses (at high frequency) those pulses are a lot like AC (except at a much higher frequency than 60hz), and on the other side of the fully isolate transformer is a rectifier section, and caps to smooth the ripple back out before it hits the H-Bridge to covert to a 60Hz sinewave. Thanks
Yes, thank you for making my point. "You could theoretically get the HF switched high voltage DC across to the AC if a MOSFET shorts yes". And as you said "on the other side of the fully isolate transformer is a rectifier section, and caps to smooth the ripple back". effectively turning this high frequency rectified and filtered high current signal back into DC. As I said, during a failure of the AC output monitoring circuitry coupled with a catastrophic short to ground of the MOSFETs in the H-bridge circuit, the inverter could pass high frequency rectified and filtered pulses that are equivalent to DC, to your AC loads. This high frequency rectified and filtered DC could saturate the transformers found in many AC appliances, causing them to overheat and even catch on fire. For an excellent video that that thoroughly explains how a high frequency transformerless inverter can set AC appliances on fire, watch the youtube video, "Solar Inverter Catastrophic Failure" by Red Hill Labs. @@BradCagle
Affiliate link: Discount code BRADCAGLE for $50 off at Signature Solar ($500 min purchase)
EG4 6000XP at Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/?ref=JRZm6fna41pidY
EG4 6000XP 12kW Bundle: signaturesolar.com/eg4-12kw-off-grid-split-phase-inverter-bundle-2-x-6000xp-12000w-output-48v-120-240v-split-phase-all-in-one-solar-inverter-system-bndl-e6000-2/?ref=JRZm6fna41pidY
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Business/Collaboration only. Please do not contact me for for personal project help, or advice.
================
DISCLAIMER: These videos are documenting my own projects, and experiences. These projects, and activities can be dangerous. Do not try any of this at home, doing so will be at your own risk.
Its cool that you are doing the reviews and all but one of my best friends has been having a hard time with signature solar. He spent a lot of money with them but they don't help much with issues he has. I guess it's like a lot of businesses these days. I think their kinda overwhelmed at the help desk.
@@matthewknight5641 Bummer, sorry to hear that for your friend. Hope he gets it worked out. I do know what you mean though, I have a hard time getting through to companies these days myself. I have one place I've been trying to cancel an order, and have yet to speak to a human.
@@BradCagle bro I've tried getting a hold of them at big battery to buy 4 of those high amp relays. A couple months I tried but no success still in getting them ordered. It was a deal for 25 bucks cause those contractors are expensive. Seems a lot of companies are growing faster than they can keep up.
@@BradCagle hey Brad I was wondering if you know anything about the federal tax credit stuff? I heard I had to buy some new panels to get the credit. If you know how it works let me know please
@@matthewknight5641 I have not used it, but from my understanding it must be new equipment. So you can only claim the credit on your new equipment.
I've been following this space, building batteries and complete systems from components for the last couple of years. In my opinion, this unit creates the perfect entry point for folks who want to start "small", but grow their system to eventually have a fairly large 240 volt split phase solution. I have a very strong suspicion that I will own at least two of these, in the near future.
Yup, that seems to be the general consensus. I think they might have a hit with this one. Thanks!
My dryer uses 4200watts on high. On low it fluctuates 800watts or less. Time to dry is twice as long but a good power savings. Thanks for the videos
I feel this is perfect for me and what I want to go with. My goal is to set up a critical loads panel and move some of my loads over to it fed split phase via this unit. For now I don't need any bigger than a 6kW inverter. Throw two 48v 100Ah server rack batteries on it and 2kW of solar and you're good to go.
Yeah, that's pretty much what I've been doing over the years, and yup, this thing seems great for that. No pushing back to the grid, and If you use all your PV/Batt power up, it just switches to your grid. If they let me keep this one, i'll certainly run my whole garage on it :)
@@BradCagle That's a great way to run these so they help pay themselves off.
Im also using luxpower inverters. Sna5000 models. Both of them is using around 60 watts each on standby. So I would say for this bigger models it's not bad standby consumption
Nice, yeah, and the firmware update got it down around 50w so very pleased! Thanks
Just pulled the trigger on this set up 🤙🏻 anxiously awaiting to see your set up with it and what you do, been enjoying your channel an keep up the great work!
Nice! Yeah I really want to replace my discreet system in my garage with this. Thanks for watching.
This thing looks like a nice step up from the Growatt 5000es or other EG4 6000/6500w inverters. Obviously for it's native split phase functionality but just seems like a better unit. One thing I've been mentioning to people is that these units that blow air across circuit boards are bound to gum up over the years. The low idle consumption sure is nice. It's a little bit lower idle consumption than the Megarevo I've been using. I should check the consumption with different firmware versions to see if they've brought it down!
Good point about the fans. You probably would want to open it up, and blow it out once a year or so.
Hey there! I totally agree with you, the EG4 6000XP All-in-one Split Phase 6000w Inverter seems like a better unit compared to the Growatt 5000es. However, have you checked out the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series? It's a versatile powerhouse with a massive 5kWh capacity, fast recharging, and a durable and waterproof design. It could be a great addition to your outdoor gear and home backup power setup. Just a suggestion!
And I have the same crimper as you showed. Its great
I love it, a must have IMO. Thanks!
Just bought one of these for my 48v system, have a Victron and Growatt 24v units as well.
Nice! Have you used it yet?
Thanks for sharing your experience. I just bought one too and should be here any day now. Seems all the reviews so far have been good so I'm feeling better. If it works I'll buy a 2nd one to get the power I need. Thanks again.
Awesome, I hope it works out great for you! I'm hoping to get more testing in with this one.
A split-phase seems best for my plan to connect the output to an existing sub-panel which supplies my kitchen, living room, garage, plus a 240 VAC outlet for a former electric dryer (now gas) which could power an EV charger. One question. When it switches to grid-power, because the panels can't provide sufficient output, does that add to the solar output? If not, is the solar output switched to charging the batteries or just goes unused?
Very nice looking unit you have. Neat test!
I'm glad you like my unit 🤣 Thanks Buddy!
I started out with the hybrid 3000 watt all in one inverter but after all the problems with the grounding when it switched between battery and ac input I just went to the 4000 watt sungold low frequency which don't have the grounding issues. I finally figured out the all in one but it's not half the inverter as the sungold
Yeah, that's why I've waited so long because IMO these AIO's were not good as having individual/discreet components. Looks like they are catching up. Thanks!
@@BradCagle if you have the AC input hooked up on that inverter is there anything weird happening when it switches from battery to grid. I mean with your neutral ground bond? Mine would trip the GFCI at my house where the AC input was plugged into the inverter if I had my inverters neutral grounded. If I didn't have it bonded it would make my fridge motor sound weird and the furnace motor sounded weak. I now just use that inverter as a battery charger and it's great for that.
So, in theory, I only need battery input and generator input to make this thing work. No grid power necessarily needed to get it to output general 120v usage.
Great review Brad
Thanks!
would be nice go see how it does with induction loads on 240v like a home ac unit, and on 120v ac air compressor if it can start one up. that will be neat to see.
Great ideas!
A clothes dryer uses both inductive load as well as resistence load (motor and heating element). Average load for a modern home central a/c is anywhere from 2 amps to 18 amps depending on size. I say modern because DOE requirements have forced makers to use more efficient components/designs in recent years. In the old days a central a/c could use 25 amps or more while running. Plus too, the age of the equipment also determines the condition of bearings which, as they wear, draw more amps due to resistence to spin. If you use a clamp meter to measure the amp draw on each leg and add them together you will get the actual load. Or you can rely on the printed run load on the name plate. These inverters account for start up load by giving you around the double the rated output for a few seconds before overloading. Hope that helps.
I was looking to get a 6500 until this morning. Looks like I'll be having this one come January.
Nice! Order through my link if you want to help the channel :) Thanks
I’m about to look at price.
I own a 6500... Trying to decide if I should trade it in for the 6000xp or keep the 6500... I've never setup the 6500, bought it and was bout to and this 6000xp shows up and they discontinue the 6500, so now I'm in a middle zone not knowing which way to go
They did have a buy back going on. Don't know if it's still in play?
So, I’m a total newbie to backup power systems and it seems like it would be a little less expensive to DIY my own backup system. Would server rack batteries be the more efficient a cost effective way to go with this unit? I’ve calculated roughly $3,500 for the setup with two 48v server rack batteries. Is there a little less expensive (but as effective) battery to go with? Great channel, btw!
awesome can't wait to receive mine!!
Sweet, from what I can tell so far I think you'll dig it! Make sure to have them update the firmware. Thanks!
@@BradCagle thank you yes all do that
For my eg4 6000, and two batteries;
Is it possible that when my batteries are filled up. I can stop using the battery power, and just switch over to the grid or just PV power, and preserve my battery power for when i need it?
Would anyone advice against this unit for a moving vehicle like an, RV, Van or skoolie?
@BradCagle did you have to the precharge resistor after all?
Awesome buddy thanks for sharing
Anytime, Thanks!
A lot of people have been asking on other forums whether this will work with only 120v input from the grid or generator. No one seem to have an answer. Wondering if you can do a test. Thanks
Hey, I was wondering that myself. I cant image that it could switch/bypass to grid like that, but maybe it can charge the battery? I'll give it a shot.
good question. I think I read somewhere you have to give it a split phase grid input for pass through, not sure about the generator input though.
I’m really looking forward to the answer to this question as well. I just subscribed hoping to see some further testing!
Alright, I asked signature solar this question, and they say you must use 240v input, 120v will not work.
No, it will not. You will require 240v in.
Waiting for mine!
Nice!
These types of inverters use about 50 watts just being on? Is there a way to run this on a separate battery system so it doesnt drain the main battery bank?
can you just run the 6000xp load wires to a 30 or 50amp power outlet box and charge your EV by plugging in your charging cable to the outlet? You wouldn't need a load center with breakers if it's just that 1 item being used ever right since the 6000xp has it's own ac breaker already? also since the 6000xp only outputs 240v 17-25A on ac whether you use a 30/50amp outlet you should be good well under the max right?
The AC breaker on the 6000xp seems to be a 50a, and in the manual it calls for 8awg wire to be used. So I would think if you run proper 8awg copper wire to a 50a 240v outlet (like a nema 14-50) it should be good. Now I'm not a electrician so do not take my word for it :) Always consult with a licensed electrician in your area. Thanks!
@@BradCagle thanks for the reply, I'll look into it then.
Are you going to do anything more with this inverter, by itself or paired with another, for two legs @ 6000w or split-phase 240?
Does that unit do power limiting ?
Been watching for new videos on this inverter. My main concern is idle consumption. The spec sheet lists several different values, but doesn't explain the conditions under which they are tested. I would love to know what the total consumption would be in actual service over time. I had a 6500EX-48 and returned it because of the idle consumption. I now have a Victron MultiPlus II. It is rated at 11W at idle, but averaging all the input power from the grid & PV and subtracting the load power over a 3 week period of varying sun, it uses an average of 22W/hr. This takes into account inverter losses, charger losses, MPPT losses etc. It's a very good number, but it's a complex system and I believe in KISS. I would have to add a 2nd one to get 240V and 6000W, and that would double my consumption, so I'm open to the 6000XP as a simpler and less expensive option if the overall daily consumption is similar.
Yeah, it's not always so cut, and dry. I would say the idle is pretty reasonable now after the firmware update, better than any other AIO. Now It's does seem to have a bit higher overhead on the MPPT. That being said I don't have that much PV on it just yet, so that overhead might be much smaller when the system has more PV. Thanks!
Can you give the measurement of the box it came in, thanks
Isnt each battery good for 100amps? so 4 in series would be 400 amps total? Sorry for the stupid question, very new to all of this
Great question. So short answer is no, 4 100Ah batteries in series would still be 100Ah. Long answer, batteries in series the voltage increases, and the amps stay the same. Batteries in parallel the amps increase but the voltage stays the same. In series 4 100Ah 12.8v batteries = 51.2v@100Ah (commonly referred to as 48v). In parallel 4 100Ah 12.8v batteries = 12.8v@400Ah. Now here's another thing people get confused about, they think 400Ah is always more capacity. Not true 12.8v@400Ah is exactly the same capacity as 51.2@100Ah. Here's the math 12.8v x 400Ah = 5120Wh, and 51.2v x 100Ah = 5120Wh. You see Wh (Watt Hours) is the best measurement of energy storage. Hope that helps. Thanks.
@@BradCagle Ah, I wrongly assumed Voltage + Amps increased. Thanks for the videos!
it is made to only use EG4 server rack Batteries? No home made Lifepo4?
It really wants a battery with communications, and looks like it supports much more than EG4 batteries. However It seems fine using Lead-Acid type setting with these mini LiFeP04 batteries I have hooked up. In this mode you get charge voltage, and float voltage settings, I don't see any other old school lead settings like temp compensation, or equalization. So really seems ok, but I haven't used it enough to know if anything strange will pop up. Thanks!
Great video. Thanks.
How loud is just the inverter?
Question: You mentioned that you "re-enabled the Power Save function." Do this imply that after shutting down the inverter, all settings revert to default? Or do they "stick?"
No, they stick. I just set the Power Save back to default after it did not seem to work initially.
Quick question can it work with out battery just grid connection ?
It does mention something about no battery mode, but I think It also mentions it's not recommended.
This sounds like the unit I have been looking for. I have been wanting to take my well off grid. What was the inrush current when you started your dryer?
Yeah this one seems to be very nice indeed. I didn't measure, I need to see if I have a clamp meter that will measure inrush. I'll let you know. Thanks!
Generally speaking the start up amperage is 3-5 times the RLA (run load amperage) on motors. So if your well pump draws, let's say 5 amps at RLA it would draw anywhere from 15 to 25 amps at start up but only for a short time. In rush doesn't apply to your motor. With a pump motor you're dealing with LRA (locked rotor amperage) at start up. Now "inrush" pertains to resistance devices (heating element) and is generally 2-3 times the normal 'run' amperage. Hope that helps. I spent a lifetime dealing with these in the mechanical contracting business.
would love to see how to connect these in parallel
That would be informative. Wish I had another, I could probably run my whole house :)
I'm watching from Nigeria I'm a beginner solo guitar where can I get this tools how can I get the inverter
Can load and grid be hooked up to the same breaker panel? I mainly just want to use this unit as a backup in case power goes out for now
Load, and grid cannot be tied to the same panel. You would need to have some sort of transfer switch installed.
@@BradCagle maybe just run them off different breakers?
@nickv5013 no you will need completely separate panel boxes, or a TS like Brad said.
Do you know the shipping dimensions?
Is there no custom setting for non server rack LiFePO4 batteries?
I didn't see it. However I think Will Prowse got it working on lithium setting without communication . I think he said he set everything to voltage charging, instead of the default SOC based charging. I'm going to play with that this weekend. I'll have a follow up video coming. Thanks.
@@BradCagle Thanks. I appreciate all your videos. I am just not a fan of the server rack batteries, and it seems like EG4 always have communication problems. I like the idea of their waterproof 48 volt batteries because they are 85 lb and have a 200 amp BMS.
Is a slave 6000XP capable of having an external grid power hookup that’s different from the grid hookup on the primary?
I’d like to hook the grid power to the primary to keep my batteries charged but if I loose grid power, I’d like to be able to charge the batteries from a generator port hooked up to the slave 6000XP
Is this configuration possible?
I'm not sure. Why not put both on the same unit? Each unit has a grid, and a generator input.
@@BradCagle
Interesting. I didn’t know that. Thanks.
has anyone tried the Battery Current draw setting? does it work?
if i use this in my 30amp(120v only) camper, will i only be able to use 3000w? or will it push over 3k on 120? camper goes up to 3600w and i need all of that lol
Pretty sure It's 3kw per leg only. Yeah I don't think this unit would make sense in a 120v only camper.
You could split your breaker panel so that each leg of the inverter services half your rv load. Then you could use the entire 6000w capacity
Not another one we have to watch it being unpacked
does anyone think this inverter would be a bad idea for a moving vehicle? like an RV, skoolie, Van, etc.? I have not seen any videos of this inverter in a moving vehicle, why is that?
Hello, great review. Video says "includes paid promotion." Did you get the unit free to review?
Technically it's on loan, but they may let me keep it. We'll see :)
@@BradCagle
Cool, how can average schmucks like us do reviews for 'complimentary' products too? Did you do reviews for paid products 1st to get a following?
@@InVinoVeritas. I had to put in about 1 year of work, and video content before anyone would give the time of day. So start a channel do a bunch of videos, you'll have a lot of out of pocket expenses, build a subscriber base. Eventually you'll get free stuff for reviews. However it's still a lot of work, so it's really not all that free in the end. Thanks
Where yto buy this in MExico??
you too ? ? i m jealous i think i want one too
Yeah, I had to get in on the action 😉I dig it so far, I think this is the one I've been holding out for. Thanks!
Are the ground and neutral bonded?
You can either enable or disable in the settings which is great.
Nice video. In the US, we have 120v. So with this AIO unit, is there anything else we need to use it in the US?
It's made for the US market. I'm in Texas.
@@BradCagle isn’t the Voltage in the us 120v instead of 240v? Except for dryer and Ev uses 240v. Am I missing Anything?
@@jonphanspromotions The voltage in the US is 240v with a neutral. Which gives you 120v (L1 to neutral), 120v (L2 to neutral), and L1 to L2 give 240v . This is what this inverter does.
@@jonphanspromotions Watch from here: th-cam.com/video/26-TJb3sBNg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jyQgH2vALXxlBksd&t=407 I get 240v, and 120v running L1 (or L2) to neutral.
@@BradCagle so it's not 240v . I can use two separate legs for 120v each.
Anyone that can help me please reply I just want to start with my heating and fridge to run off batteries. I live in Maryland and not sunny every day. So how many batteries would I need
That's impossible for us to tell you without you telling us a lot about your house, equipment, it's energy draw, your assumptions (& definitions regarding what's 'comfortable', affordable), etc.
You likely should either spend time learning how to calculate these issues yourself or spend money on a reputable professional...
I helped a off grid old timer order one of these 6000xp inverters and it’s the wrong inverter for him. He is never going to want to learn how to use it it or set it. I should have ordered a big low frequency boat anchor of a inverter with no fancy bells and whistles. Even techy people are challenged to setup these new inverters. I’m not sure I’m techy enough without many hours of messing with the settings.
Watch Will Prowse video on this unit. He set it up in about 5 minutes, went through all the settings, super simple.
How difficult is it for these manufactures to make a unit that is liquid cooled? These fans are too loud
So how much is it ?,
signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/?ref=JRZm6fna41pidY
I would never connect a high frequency, transformerless inverter to the major appliances in my home. High frequency inverter offer a wimpy 2X surge capacity and during a catastrophic failure of the H-bridge circuit, without an output transformer to isolate the battery from the AC output, a high frequency inverter can damage and even set an appliance on fire. If you want to power your whole house with solar, a far better alternative is to invest less money and purchase a hybrid, low frequency, transformer based inverter charger and an LFP battery and assemble your own real solar generator. Low frequency transformer based solar generators last many years longer than these high frequency inverters, and can easily power high surge loads without being damaged and without damaging your appliances. That's why the big name brand inverter manufacturers like Schneider Electric, Outback Power, Sigineer, Victron and others, all use a low frequency topology in their offerings.
I've used high frequency inverters for years, and have had no problems. Most things are moving to high frequency these days. All micro inverters are HF, as with all the Tesla equipment. HF tech continues to get better all them time, the market demands HF because of the cost, size, and weight savings. BTW HF inverters do offer isolation via the smaller transformers in the DC section. The real difference is you're stepping up the voltage on the DC side, rather than stepping up the voltage on the AC side with a large transformer.
Micro inverters are used solely for grid tie applications and as such, they are not subject to inductive surges. And Tesla does not use low cost Chinese made MOSFETs or IGBTs in their builds. And high frequency inverters do not isolate the DC input from the AC output, because while they do use small transformers (inductors) coupled with capacitors to step up the DC voltage, this stage of a high frequency inverter still passes this DC current through to the H-bridge circuit which can be passed on to the AC loads during a failure of the AC output monitoring circuitry coupled with a catastrophic short to ground of one of the MOSFETs in the H-bridge circuit. The only way to guaranty that an inverter will not pass DC current to the AC loads is to use an iron core, copper wound isolation transformer at the AC output. . @@BradCagle
@@solarcharging9743 You cannot get battery DC voltage to the AC output. You could theoretically get the HF switched high voltage DC across to the AC if a MOSFET shorts yes. However the high voltage DC section should be shut down if some anomaly was detected. The whole system has a feedback loop to adjust the voltage on the fly depending on the load. Look at the topology of the HF section of these inverters. It's not a typical boost converter with inductors like you're thinking, they actually use transformers, and it's fully isolated. Just like an isolated dc/dc converter. It can use transformers in the DC section because it pulses (at high frequency) those pulses are a lot like AC (except at a much higher frequency than 60hz), and on the other side of the fully isolate transformer is a rectifier section, and caps to smooth the ripple back out before it hits the H-Bridge to covert to a 60Hz sinewave.
Thanks
Yes, thank you for making my point. "You could theoretically get the HF switched high voltage DC across to the AC if a MOSFET shorts yes". And as you said "on the other side of the fully isolate transformer is a rectifier section, and caps to smooth the ripple back". effectively turning this high frequency rectified and filtered high current signal back into DC.
As I said, during a failure of the AC output monitoring circuitry coupled with a catastrophic short to ground of the MOSFETs in the H-bridge circuit, the inverter could pass high frequency rectified and filtered pulses that are equivalent to DC, to your AC loads. This high frequency rectified and filtered DC could saturate the transformers found in many AC appliances, causing them to overheat and even catch on fire. For an excellent video that that thoroughly explains how a high frequency transformerless inverter can set AC appliances on fire, watch the youtube video, "Solar Inverter Catastrophic Failure" by Red Hill Labs. @@BradCagle
@@solarcharging9743 Thanks, I'll check out the video.
Mine does none of this! What a dissapointing unit