I think this is the best kythera video around I just got my brothers one working for him. first 1 I have done there was a lot of fine tuning, I should have watched this video first
🤣🤣 in other tuners defense, I didn't just watch the P* video and repeat what they said. Took me almost an entire year to actually learn everything I now know about Kytheras, and I'm very good at tuning them. Glad I could help!
So the nozzle will reset on its own? Some other Mechanical HPA will wait until you release the trigger. Now I see why the metering screws are important.
Pretty sure a cyma Plat is standard V2 so the stock #1 nozzle for the V2 unit should work. Only Time I've had to change a nozzle was for my KWA build since they use proprietary gearboxes
I've never actually done a weight test to see how much force it takes for the trigger to break, it's definitely not going to feel anywhere near as light as an AEG trigger but it's won't be as heavy as real steel. The trigger feel I'm talking about is more about how smooth it is on the break and reset rather than how heavy it is.
@@deganmccloskey3230 Thanks man I appreciate the comment, as far as the kythera goes I'm pretty sure I'm done since this is pretty much everything I've learned over the last year and a 1/2 on how to work on them so it should be good using all the tips that I've posted so far but any future builds that I do if I learn anything that I feel the community should know about I'll make sure to post a video on it
Half a pound pull. Tune the trigger link, and tune the trigger itself and it can be super light. Also using the sear and disconnect adjustment like how Polarstar instructs.... The same technique can be used for the trigger... Tune it until it releases the sear, then back it up from there.
Have you ever had a problem with the kythrea folding the bucking lips ,I feel like I need a slower metering screw or is it something else. I have the allingment perfect.
No, but if the bucking lips are folding I'd consider a shorter nozzle or a different bucking before jumping to the metering screw. The metering screw only controls how quickly the nozzle returns to the forward position between shots so it probably wouldn't solve any bucking issues
@@sausageofmarnies2799 I’ve tried g&g ,modify and maple leaf bucking. It a vfc gearbox with vfc hop up so I feel like stock v2 nozzle should be the right length.
@@Pyro1250 what build is this going into? I've seen some that are V2 standard internals but require either a shorter nozzle or shimming the hop unit forward a few mm
![Airsoft - Polarstar Kythera V3 [French]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mxGDF_zSmfk/mqdefault.jpg)
I think this is the best kythera video around I just got my brothers one working for him. first 1 I have done there was a lot of fine tuning, I should have watched this video first
🤣🤣 in other tuners defense, I didn't just watch the P* video and repeat what they said. Took me almost an entire year to actually learn everything I now know about Kytheras, and I'm very good at tuning them. Glad I could help!
So the nozzle will reset on its own? Some other Mechanical HPA will wait until you release the trigger. Now I see why the metering screws are important.
hi sir.. can I ask.. what is the highest possible fps output for a kythera?
I'm not sure since I haven't tried to max it out yet but I know that at the very least you'll he able to get 430FPS no problem
what nozzle length do I need If I where to put this into a cyma platinum m4 with a maxx model me pro hop unit?
Pretty sure a cyma Plat is standard V2 so the stock #1 nozzle for the V2 unit should work. Only Time I've had to change a nozzle was for my KWA build since they use proprietary gearboxes
With a finely tuned kythera like the ones you’ve worked on what kind of trigger pull are we talking? How light can it be?
I've never actually done a weight test to see how much force it takes for the trigger to break, it's definitely not going to feel anywhere near as light as an AEG trigger but it's won't be as heavy as real steel. The trigger feel I'm talking about is more about how smooth it is on the break and reset rather than how heavy it is.
@@sausageofmarnies2799 I see. Still, I appreciate you sharing the information you’ve gathered on the kythera. Thanks, keep it coming.
@@deganmccloskey3230 Thanks man I appreciate the comment, as far as the kythera goes I'm pretty sure I'm done since this is pretty much everything I've learned over the last year and a 1/2 on how to work on them so it should be good using all the tips that I've posted so far but any future builds that I do if I learn anything that I feel the community should know about I'll make sure to post a video on it
Half a pound pull.
Tune the trigger link, and tune the trigger itself and it can be super light.
Also using the sear and disconnect adjustment like how Polarstar instructs....
The same technique can be used for the trigger... Tune it until it releases the sear, then back it up from there.
Have you ever had a problem with the kythrea folding the bucking lips ,I feel like I need a slower metering screw or is it something else. I have the allingment perfect.
No, but if the bucking lips are folding I'd consider a shorter nozzle or a different bucking before jumping to the metering screw. The metering screw only controls how quickly the nozzle returns to the forward position between shots so it probably wouldn't solve any bucking issues
@@sausageofmarnies2799 I’ve tried g&g ,modify and maple leaf bucking. It a vfc gearbox with vfc hop up so I feel like stock v2 nozzle should be the right length.
@@Pyro1250 what build is this going into? I've seen some that are V2 standard internals but require either a shorter nozzle or shimming the hop unit forward a few mm
Do you know why I'm shooting 180 fps on 125 psi
If I had to guess, I'd say your nozzle might be too short to seal.with the bucking properly, what's your entire setup?