This..This..This. Taught with skill. Filmed with skill. Edited with skill..Dialogued with skill. Textbook. This helped me..Fixed N Free. And I love being able to see close in. This. Thanks from the bottom…J. Ya got a quiver full of skill sets. And one leads to another. Cheers
Man if it weren’t for you, i’d still be using pull-throughs on my knives. I’ve gone from chipping my edges to long lasting working edges and mirror polishing. Thank you for these videos. You’re the man, bub!
Thanks so much for the video lesson, was very helpful. After watching this video several times and your angle video I re-sharpened 2 S30V 535 Bugouts on a fixed angle system. At 17 degrees a side and the other at 15 degrees, both to 1500 grit using diamond stones. Minimal stropping to only remove any remaining micro burrs as you explained. Both are scary razor sharp. Amazingly easy to do following your techniques/advice. Thanks again!
I’ve noticed all of these things during my current knife sharpening journey. Very very useful. I had a small introduction to this as I have been sharpening mower blades since I was 13. And alot of the fundamentals are shared between the two.
I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN I DID A LOT OF THAT AS WELL. THERES A LOT OF SIMILARITIES, WITH KNIVES ITS MORE PRECISE AND I BIT DIFFERENT SINCE YOUR GOING FOR HIGH LEVELS OF SHARPNESS OVER TOUGHNESS WHCIH LAWN BLADES ARE VERY TOUGH BUT ALSO GET VERY SHARP WHEN DONE RIGHT
@@NeevesKnives yes. MUCH MORE precise. I was mirror polishing. And I did achieve the polish I wanted. But noticed some deeper scratches. Not terrible, just something I noticed. This is because I wasn’t paying attention to my scratch pattern. Appreciate the advice on this brother 💪🏻💪🏻
Can you sharpen like normal with the ceramic and do the burr removal after? And if I’m using 2 strops 6 micron and 4 micron how many passes do you recommend with each
BTW WITH THE BURR REMOVAL I TALK ABOUT IT ALL THE TIME ON THE CHANNEL EVEN WITH FREE HAND ITS SO IMPORTANT ON HOW YOUR EDGE WILL COME OUT IF YOUR ON A FIXED ANGLED ITS VERY EASY BUT YOU NEED TO DO LIGHT STROKES EDGE TRAILING WITH YOUR FINISHING STONE OR A CERAMIC, NO PRESSURE,
Always good to watch someone else use a guided system.. helps me remember the little things I tend to take for granted in sharpening. Especially someone like yourself that has many hours doing it. Thanks for the video! Well done. 😊
Loved all the tips & insight! Something else that I find extremely useful is listening & the feedback from the stone & edge. The sound & feedback can tell you when a side is completely homogenous and even. You can feel & hear exactly where it needs more attention & you can address that spot just by listening to it & the feedback you feel. I love using the ceramic on the SWPA for removing burrs too. Tip to heal a few times initially on each side (listening etc) then flip & repeat. Then I just count down in # of times each side. A single swipe on each side & you can get a whisper of a burr, like super thin fil that you'd be hard pressed to feel with a finger. Then I use an artists eraser (super soft, natural eraser that doesn't leave shit behind) to run down the edge & off to the strop. I also use that eraser every so often on the diamond plates & ceramic to keep them clean, aggressive. When I over strop or roll an edge a bit I use the ceramic to bring back a toothy edge and then adjust any stropping and bring it to the edge I want. The internet is about information sharing, so there's some of my experiences, observations that may offer ideas to some & they adapt them to suit their ways. Keep up the great work Jared! Cheers
That helps so much. The last thing I want to do is mess up knives I’ve spent good money on. Working on cheap knives with easy steels first was also a great tip from you
Something I wish people talked about more on fixed angle systems is blade positioning in the clamp for different blade shapes. One of my biggest struggles with fixed angles is not having the bevel widen out at the tip on blades with abrupt curves up to the tip (like the Benny's Clip)
@@NeevesKnives I never even thought about that, but now that you mention it it seems obvious. Do you generally suggest centering the length of the blade in the clamp? In this vid it looked like you had it clamped more rearward.
On a fixed angle system you want the longest part of the edge parallel with the sharpener, You always want the blade supported as tight as possible , I always twist the handle to make sure it’s locked super tight and there is no movement , being in the center is fine or back closer to the pivot it doesn’t really matter as long as your stones clear the clamp and it’s locked tight , you also want to make sure the tip is supported and isn’t flexing so you might want clamp closer to the tip on a very thin knife , some filet knives I support the tip with my finger to keep it from flexing downward when I run the stone or strop over it , Hope this helps 👊🏻
VERY GOOD VIDEO!! Especially the part of when to stop at the tip, to prevent rollover!! NO ONE wants to convert a good poker into a butter knife. Thanks again!
Awesome video! 👌 one question you mention a few times no pressure during stroping but when your using your stones how much pressure would you say you apply? I have a few stones now some cut faster than others so trying to find a consistent pressure for reprofiling and sharpening
Ever since I got the work sharp OG precision adjust I could get hair whittling edges, and then I got the PRO PA. And it's a big upgrade but any time a cut through printer paper it would go to the side and trail of, so I tried your technique and I'm slicing through paper like butter. Awesome advice.
Such a great vid for those getting into sharpening on a fixed angle system and even for those who have been using one for awhile. Always something new to learn about sharpening in general. The aftermarket stone holder is definatly a great investment for any sharpening system if it doesn't come with one already Thanks for the great vid Jerad and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
On the KME system to me it looks like they do more “scrubbing” back and forth motion vs sweeping the blade. If you had a KME would you work it this exactly same way
Excellent video, as a rookie this was extremely helpful. One question, when you talked about using a ceramic stone to remove a burr, did that replace the stropping or do you recommend doing both. Thanks.
Excellent video thank you for the information and tips , got any tips for marrying up 2 edges on fixed angle system ? Just got EMP Relative and attempting to sharpen it soon the edge looks a little tricky it's not a tanto but where compound grind meets looks like it will be difficult to marry up the 2 edges
Only halfway through the video but I just had to pause to make this comment saying that this is the video I've been needing🔥 already know all the basics but this is great cuz it's focusing on all of mistakes that are most commonly made. Stopping the stone halfway on the tip!!! that is key and will help me tremendously in and of itself, okay going to go watch the rest of the video ✌🏻 thanks for this!!! 🔥🔥
So you sharpen and get a burr underneath you flip it sharpen the other side the burr goes back to other side would you suggest removing the bur with that same stone or move on to the next stone the. Remove it
Awesome video. I've been looking for something better than my Lansky. Wasn't sure if it was worth the upgrade to a high end sharpener. Maybe now I can really get a perfect edge. Thank you so much.
Great video. I gonna pick up that Worksharp Pro PA now that there is a stone holder available. I was considering getting a TSProf but they have not been available here in Scandinavia for almost a year. Gonna need to pick up some slim Venev stones also. It's nice to have a fixed angle system for when you just need to put on a good consistent edge 🙂Thanks for the video.
What grit ceramic do you use? Also are you worried about carbide fracturing or destabalization when using ceramic as a finishing stone on the high carbide steels?
Don’t THINK too much. Get 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000 grit diamond stones. Even the hyper Micro 2,000ug grits in honing solutions would be fine just don’t worry about those. Just get the diamond stones.
I definitely do some of the "don'ts" you've described in this video. So I definitely appreciate the tips! One question I have tho is that😮 even when using fixed angle sharpeners such as the The Work Sharp Precision Adjust, I find that the blade ends up with little scratches on it. To avoid this I put blue painters tape over the entire blade. Is there something I'm doing wrong cuz taping up a blade every time is annoying AF!
The same thing happens to me. but the answer is simple. you're pulling the stone too far up to where the edge of the end of the stone is hitting the side of the blade. that's why the fixed angle sharpeners usually give you a rubber washer to prevent that from happening. but for me, I don't use the washers because I like to use every inch of the stone, but the tradeoff is that I sometimes get scratches on my blade. to me it's not a big deal because they're knives not art pieces but at the same time I like to try to keep them on best shape for as ling as possible so I try to avoid things like that. as I get better at fixed angle sharpening, I don't have the problem where I scratch the blade because of muscle memory. especially as I became aware of the scratches and how I was scratching my knives.
So, after removing the initial burr FROM TIP TO TAIL, then (without flipping) you go back to passes from TAIL TO TIP while creating the new burr to the other side?
Work Sharp released the professional version two freekin' months after I bought a KME! Don't get me wrong. I'm a big fan of the KME. It's a great system. That's why I bought it, but I like the Work Sharp better. (The precision adjustment screw makes it a lot easier to set a precise angle, not to mention that it comes with an digital angle finder.) Two freekin' months! They did the same damn thing when I bought the original Worksharp sharpener. Three weeks later the Ken Onion Edition comes out!
how do you feel about wood strops with gunny juice? i tend to like a balsa/bass wood strop better because i find my angle way easier. should i put more pressure then a leather strop?
Are you saying when your sharpening one side of the blade with like say 600 grit and you have your Bur then instead of fipping it to other side go to 800 grit and keep sharpening to get the scratch pattern smoother then flip the blade and just do like 5 strokes to remove the Bur.
I get a wicked edge, but feel I can improve. I struggle to confidently identify a burr. Even after many passes. I just assume I have rough hands and don't feel it. Seems more difficult with premium steels - Magnacut or maxamet recently.
Should i sharpen my tip at a different angle? For example my belly of my pocket knife is 20° but my tip cant get a burr.. the bezel of my tip is also way bigger then the bevel. If i am not mistaken i can get my tip sharp by increasing thze angle a bit for the tip. Correct me if im wrong please
No! The reason your having an issue is the thickness behind the edge changes on many knives so your bevel will be bigger and take more tip in those particular areas. If needed get it in 2 sessions or even 3 as you don't need it to be perfect if it's going to require alot of steel removal.
@NeevesKnives thanks buddy! Im sharpening a Microtech Stitch partially serrated. I have actually achieved a sharper belly then factory! Like scary sharp! The tip needs 1 or 2 more sessions do. Much appreciated for the tip!
Thank you for all the great content. My one problem is when I do the light reverse strokes with my final stone it changes the scratch pattern from all going one direction to scratches going 2 directions. I tried not doing the reverse strokes with final stone and only minimal stropping with 5 micron juice and I still am getting 2 scratch patterns. My final stone is 50 micron. Any advice?
Then you are applying to much pressure no pressure at all you only want the burr on apex to make light contact in order to snag off, if only forward directions work best for you then do what works for sure. You can come back to other techniques in future. Another thing depending on the steels hardness will depend on how easily it breaks off. If mine take a lot of effort in many cases I will finish off with forward strokes on each side without causing a burr. Also what grit are you deburring on?
@@NeevesKnives Sharpening s30v, ctx, and spy27 type steels. All pretty similar. I am sharpening to 50micron venev as my last stone as I like a lot of bight. Then going to 5micron juice on leather for deburring. Thanks for the help
i notice you mostly sharpen smaller knives. Have you tried any bigger kitchen knives? especially with this work sharp per pro. i have a similar set up and im having trouble with the clamping system not holding strong, it flexes as i get to tip. any suggestions?
Hold it with your hand. I always treat the clamp as an aid, but your other hand should be the main thing that keeps the blade firm and not moving. If you don't like to use your hand to support the blade there are 3D printed supports you can buy online. But they are much less flexible and clumsy to use if the knife is large, as you will need to support the different parts of the knife as stone move. Hand is best.
Hey. I’m sorry but I can’t for the life of me find the aftermarket stone holder you’re showing at the beginning of your video. I’ve tried all the links you provided, but can’t seem to find it. I recently bought the new Professional Precision Adjust Work Sharp sharpener (like the one you’re using), but I want to expand its capabilities like you suggest (using more stones). Will you PLEASE, PLEASE either make another video or at least a Short naming and describing the stone holder you’re using??? Thanks SO MUCH and, as always, I REALLY enjoy all your content! Thanks again! ;-}. MM
So i just finished me first try with a worksharp elite. But i didnt spend enough time going through the finer grits once I got that initial burr like you said. Would you recommend going over again or just wait til the knife gets dull. It cuts very well but with the naked eye you can see the pattern isnt even.
Just wait until it gets dull, because if you have the precision elite then it's not going to matter much, the jump from the last diamond to the ceramic is to big there needs to be one or 2 stones more before the ceramic If you want an ultra fine edge, however the ceramic will be a great way to do your burr removal, you can get an aftermarket stone holder in order to get better stones btw
If you have the same system from this video the professional then it's kinda the same thing, another reason i recommend getting the aftermarket stone holder, there's a really good one in my Hapstone link that's in my most recent videos for both systems, it will be back in stock in about a week or 2
@NeevesKnives I have the pm2 and I noticed the holder for the worksharp doesn't allow the stone to hit the corner of the hilt/plunge. I'll look into the aftermarket holder just for that reason alone.
Thanks for sharing bud!👊🏻I have seen people just go straight up and down I believe it was on a work sharp video is that not good to do even if you make sure to be even with it same amount of strokes?
if all the teeth are straight up and down then its fine, kind of like a factory edge done on a belt thats how they are. but you dont want the teeth running all different directions
Great vid Jared. I've been tempted to pick up the Worksharp Pro. I have the original. It's not bad, but man does it fall short in a lot of ways. Do you think the Pro is worth it, or should I just bite the bullet and buy a T.S. Prof? I've been hand sharpening lately, but it really sucks when you need to re-profile some of the crazy hard steels.
I very much appreciate your efforts here to show the importance of proper sharpening. particularly the importance of the microscopic teeth. Years ago I tried it vain to explain this over on BF' to no avail. I was told that it was completely wrong. Particularly by one individual who toted himself as an Engineer in Metallurgy. When I did a deep dive on his qualifications turned out he as only a trade school student and not an accredited Metallurgist at all. Yet he was treated there as the god of steel. Virtually every thing he taught there was dead wrong. I won't give his name here as he is now deceased, I still see his name as the guru of knife steels. GRRRRRRR!!! A complete fraud and never made a knife in his life. I finally gave up trying to educate the masses there. Like you I have done extensive testing over the years in the business and have been a maker of fine knives for over 50 year. Hard not to learn a few things in all that time. ;
@@jeronimo2152 USUALLY WITH SYSTEMS DIAMONDS ARE THE BEST BECAUSE THEY CUT FAST AND WITH SMALLER STONES IT TAKES A LONG TIME IF THE STONES ARE NOT DIAMOND
you can go ever the tip you just have to follow the path of the edge ... dont know if thats a sin but like that at teast the tip doesnt get rounded off... got a pretty good edge like that yesterday on my folder
fixed angle only gets thicker and your knives perform poorer and the sharpening eventually takes longer. then you have to thin it and alot of fixed systems cant do an accute enough angle to thin.
Sharpening takes materials off the edge and eventually moves edge towards the thicker part of the blade. This is true for any sharpening. And with any sharpening method you are almost always aiming for consistency and fixed angles. Even a convex profile needs consistency and you are essentially creating many bevels with gradually decreasing FIXED angle at each level.
I cant be bothered with fixed angle systems. Most knife bros extremely over complicate things, and usually don't understand them anyway. Guys who for instance think you need 20 grits to do a knife edge and stuff like that. Guys who start out with something like 50 grit. Just the amount of ignorance youd be fighting against trying to teach knife bros is too much.
I found fixed angle systems really makes a night and day difference for high carbide super steels like M390 and above. These steels in my experience are extremely intolerant to variations in angle as apex easily chips away even after tiny variations in contact angle with the stone. This was the main reason why some people complained these steels are hard to sharpen. With a VERY steady hand you might be able to sharpen these steels to a good edge but you may find it takes longer (many people mistakenly think it was mainly because it was hard to remove the materials, but actually the other big cause is what I mentioned above), because you will be finding the edge remains dull not realising the tiny mistakes that caused micro chipping. And even if you achieve a good edge, it may hold for less time, because the small variations in angle inevitable during freehand sharpening will almost guarantees to introduce micro fractures along the carbide-steel interfaces in the molecular structure and cause the edge to microchip faster as you cut stuff. With fixed angle system you dramatically reduce such variations and you will find that the blade will be sharpened in no time, even with minimal materials removed. I used to do everything freehand on Japanese Waterstones but after poor performance on super steels I figured out why and bought a fixed angle system. After that there is no return. With same set of stones the differences are significant.
This..This..This. Taught with skill. Filmed with skill. Edited with skill..Dialogued with skill. Textbook. This helped me..Fixed N Free. And I love being able to see close in. This. Thanks from the bottom…J. Ya got a quiver full of skill sets. And one leads to another. Cheers
Spit on that thang
Man if it weren’t for you, i’d still be using pull-throughs on my knives. I’ve gone from chipping my edges to long lasting working edges and mirror polishing. Thank you for these videos. You’re the man, bub!
That is amazing and just made my day 👊 thank you
Hey thank you, bub.
The tip not going over the tip and heel was golden.I was doing it without realizing it! thank you
Thanks so much for the video lesson, was very helpful. After watching this video several times and your angle video I re-sharpened 2 S30V 535 Bugouts on a fixed angle system. At 17 degrees a side and the other at 15 degrees, both to 1500 grit using diamond stones. Minimal stropping to only remove any remaining micro burrs as you explained. Both are scary razor sharp. Amazingly easy to do following your techniques/advice. Thanks again!
What an incredibly well-put-together tutorial. Jerad, you’re a natural teacher!
🙏
I’ve noticed all of these things during my current knife sharpening journey. Very very useful. I had a small introduction to this as I have been sharpening mower blades since I was 13. And alot of the fundamentals are shared between the two.
I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN I DID A LOT OF THAT AS WELL. THERES A LOT OF SIMILARITIES, WITH KNIVES ITS MORE PRECISE AND I BIT DIFFERENT SINCE YOUR GOING FOR HIGH LEVELS OF SHARPNESS OVER TOUGHNESS WHCIH LAWN BLADES ARE VERY TOUGH BUT ALSO GET VERY SHARP WHEN DONE RIGHT
@@NeevesKnives yes. MUCH MORE precise. I was mirror polishing. And I did achieve the polish I wanted. But noticed some deeper scratches. Not terrible, just something I noticed. This is because I wasn’t paying attention to my scratch pattern. Appreciate the advice on this brother 💪🏻💪🏻
@@landscapingspecialist YES EXACTLY ALSO MAKE SURE YOU SPEND ENOUGH TIME ON THE MEDIUM GRIT STONES TO GET OUT THE COARSE SCRATCHES
Can you sharpen like normal with the ceramic and do the burr removal after? And if I’m using 2 strops 6 micron and 4 micron how many passes do you recommend with each
I hadn’t been paying attention to my scratch patterns as closely as I should have. And also proper burr removal. Very useful indeed 💪🏻💪🏻
YES DEF PAY ATTENTION TO THOSE ITS SUPER IMPORTANT, AND YOU WILL SEE A MASSIVE DIFFERENCE IN PERFORMANCE AFTER
@@NeevesKnives copy that. Thanks again brother 💪🏻💪🏻
BTW WITH THE BURR REMOVAL I TALK ABOUT IT ALL THE TIME ON THE CHANNEL EVEN WITH FREE HAND ITS SO IMPORTANT ON HOW YOUR EDGE WILL COME OUT IF YOUR ON A FIXED ANGLED ITS VERY EASY BUT YOU NEED TO DO LIGHT STROKES EDGE TRAILING WITH YOUR FINISHING STONE OR A CERAMIC, NO PRESSURE,
@@landscapingspecialist IF ITS S110 V DONT EVEN TRY TO REMOVE WITH STONE ONLY STROP AFTER ITS FATIGUED
Always good to watch someone else use a guided system.. helps me remember the little things I tend to take for granted in sharpening. Especially someone like yourself that has many hours doing it. Thanks for the video! Well done. 😊
This guy is the edged tool Jesus. Thank you, Jared.
Well put. Lol
That hogue was so sharp I was skeeved out when you touched the magnification screen. Great job man.
Thanks 👍
Being able to sharpen your knives opens up a whole new level to the knife journey!
So much great info! Thank you! 🤙🏽
Loved all the tips & insight! Something else that I find extremely useful is listening & the feedback from the stone & edge. The sound & feedback can tell you when a side is completely homogenous and even. You can feel & hear exactly where it needs more attention & you can address that spot just by listening to it & the feedback you feel.
I love using the ceramic on the SWPA for removing burrs too. Tip to heal a few times initially on each side (listening etc) then flip & repeat. Then I just count down in # of times each side. A single swipe on each side & you can get a whisper of a burr, like super thin fil that you'd be hard pressed to feel with a finger. Then I use an artists eraser (super soft, natural eraser that doesn't leave shit behind) to run down the edge & off to the strop.
I also use that eraser every so often on the diamond plates & ceramic to keep them clean, aggressive.
When I over strop or roll an edge a bit I use the ceramic to bring back a toothy edge and then adjust any stropping and bring it to the edge I want.
The internet is about information sharing, so there's some of my experiences, observations that may offer ideas to some & they adapt them to suit their ways.
Keep up the great work Jared!
Cheers
You should always end your vid’s like this. Don’t know why but it was super satisfying!
That helps so much. The last thing I want to do is mess up knives I’ve spent good money on. Working on cheap knives with easy steels first was also a great tip from you
Something I wish people talked about more on fixed angle systems is blade positioning in the clamp for different blade shapes. One of my biggest struggles with fixed angles is not having the bevel widen out at the tip on blades with abrupt curves up to the tip (like the Benny's Clip)
if the geometry of the blade is that way then its suposed to widen up at tip if its thicker so in many cases its normal
@@NeevesKnives I never even thought about that, but now that you mention it it seems obvious. Do you generally suggest centering the length of the blade in the clamp? In this vid it looked like you had it clamped more rearward.
On a fixed angle system you want the longest part of the edge parallel with the sharpener, You always want the blade supported as tight as possible , I always twist the handle to make sure it’s locked super tight and there is no movement , being in the center is fine or back closer to the pivot it doesn’t really matter as long as your stones clear the clamp and it’s locked tight , you also want to make sure the tip is supported and isn’t flexing so you might want clamp closer to the tip on a very thin knife , some filet knives I support the tip with my finger to keep it from flexing downward when I run the stone or strop over it , Hope this helps 👊🏻
@@Antimatter. Thanks!
VERY GOOD VIDEO!! Especially the part of when to stop at the tip, to prevent rollover!! NO ONE wants to convert a good poker into a butter knife. Thanks again!
Awesome video! 👌 one question you mention a few times no pressure during stroping but when your using your stones how much pressure would you say you apply? I have a few stones now some cut faster than others so trying to find a consistent pressure for reprofiling and sharpening
Love these sharpening videos. Now I know why it’s so easy to round the tip of a knife and how to avoid it, thank you!
Ever since I got the work sharp OG precision adjust I could get hair whittling edges, and then I got the PRO PA. And it's a big upgrade but any time a cut through printer paper it would go to the side and trail of, so I tried your technique and I'm slicing through paper like butter. Awesome advice.
I freehand sharpen and this even helped and explained a lot to me your videos have taken my freehand sharpening to a whole other level thanks a lot!
Such a great vid for those getting into sharpening on a fixed angle system and even for those who have been using one for awhile. Always something new to learn about sharpening in general. The aftermarket stone holder is definatly a great investment for any sharpening system if it doesn't come with one already Thanks for the great vid Jerad and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
After a few months of anticipation, I'm getting a worksharp precision adjust for my birthday next week and this is VERY valuable info to know
the professional or precision?
@NeevesKnives precision for me. I have done a good bit of freehand for the past 2 years though so I didn't feel the need to go all-in with the pro
Just getting started with a WorkSharp Adjust Elite. Thanks for a good tutorial and detailed explanations!
Liked this video. Would like to know your recommendations on ceramic plates that you mentioned near the end of this video. Thanks Steve
Great Tips. BTW, I sometimes lay a small mirror on the table so I can see where the stone is at the tip.
Thank you for making this. I have the basic precision adjust system and you answered the problems ive been having very well
Great to hear!
What awesome tips Jerad. Dont even have a fixed angle system but this was very informative.
On the KME system to me it looks like they do more “scrubbing” back and forth motion vs sweeping the blade. If you had a KME would you work it this exactly same way
Thanks Jerod, you'd be suprised something as simple as a close up glasses come in handy.
Excellent video, as a rookie this was extremely helpful. One question, when you talked about using a ceramic stone to remove a burr, did that replace the stropping or do you recommend doing both. Thanks.
Great job. The tips were well explained and articulated.
Excellent video thank you for the information and tips , got any tips for marrying up 2 edges on fixed angle system ? Just got EMP Relative and attempting to sharpen it soon the edge looks a little tricky it's not a tanto but where compound grind meets looks like it will be difficult to marry up the 2 edges
Only halfway through the video but I just had to pause to make this comment saying that this is the video I've been needing🔥 already know all the basics but this is great cuz it's focusing on all of mistakes that are most commonly made. Stopping the stone halfway on the tip!!! that is key and will help me tremendously in and of itself, okay going to go watch the rest of the video ✌🏻 thanks for this!!! 🔥🔥
Glad I could help
Exceptionally helpful video. Thanks for posting it.
Thank you. I learned the tip lesson the hard way.
Dang thanks never sharpened a knife before just got the workstation great tips
Top stuff like normal Jerad my man. Have a beautiful day J&K stay safe and healthy both 🫵🏻😘👍🏼
So you sharpen and get a burr underneath you flip it sharpen the other side the burr goes back to other side would you suggest removing the bur with that same stone or move on to the next stone the. Remove it
Awesome video. I've been looking for something better than my Lansky. Wasn't sure if it was worth the upgrade to a high end sharpener. Maybe now I can really get a perfect edge. Thank you so much.
if you have the lansky make sure you get the diamond stones if you dont have them already it will make you experience 10x better
@@NeevesKnives Thanks so much. I figured it was better with diamonds. But I was thinking to save up and get a TSPROF Kadet with diamonds.
Great video! How do you feel about a felt cube for removing a burr?
This is an amazing video you've made! You're a "god" and I'm now a "believer" lol and subscribing.
Thank man, snagged a stone holder with your code
awesome you can follow that guy on instagram he can make a lot of stuff or parts for these systems
Hey Jerad, where is the link to that aftermarket 3d printed stone holder?
Great video. I gonna pick up that Worksharp Pro PA now that there is a stone holder available. I was considering getting a TSProf but they have not been available here in Scandinavia for almost a year. Gonna need to pick up some slim Venev stones also. It's nice to have a fixed angle system for when you just need to put on a good consistent edge 🙂Thanks for the video.
absolutely it is, even i use them regularly and i love freehand
What about concave blades like are on most of my Bark River fixed blade knives. Do they all need to be hand sharpened??
Thanks for sharing great information
What grit ceramic do you use? Also are you worried about carbide fracturing or destabalization when using ceramic as a finishing stone on the high carbide steels?
Don’t THINK too much.
Get 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000 grit diamond stones.
Even the hyper Micro 2,000ug grits in honing solutions would be fine just don’t worry about those. Just get the diamond stones.
@sprinkleddonuts6094 bro 😂 yes think too much there is so much more to the science of nettalurgy than just getting a couple of stones
Hey there.
Nice Video.
I can't find the stone holder at the link. Where i can get it? Greetings from germany
Other than ascetics is there any point in mirror polishing?
Brother where did you get that handle and stone set for that Work Sharp I love you videos very informative thanks for putting them out
Go to my most recent videos, in the hapstone link they have stone holder for both the work sharp pro and precision
I definitely do some of the "don'ts" you've described in this video. So I definitely appreciate the tips! One question I have tho is that😮 even when using fixed angle sharpeners such as the The Work Sharp Precision Adjust, I find that the blade ends up with little scratches on it. To avoid this I put blue painters tape over the entire blade. Is there something I'm doing wrong cuz taping up a blade every time is annoying AF!
The same thing happens to me. but the answer is simple. you're pulling the stone too far up to where the edge of the end of the stone is hitting the side of the blade. that's why the fixed angle sharpeners usually give you a rubber washer to prevent that from happening. but for me, I don't use the washers because I like to use every inch of the stone, but the tradeoff is that I sometimes get scratches on my blade. to me it's not a big deal because they're knives not art pieces but at the same time I like to try to keep them on best shape for as ling as possible so I try to avoid things like that. as I get better at fixed angle sharpening, I don't have the problem where I scratch the blade because of muscle memory. especially as I became aware of the scratches and how I was scratching my knives.
So, after removing the initial burr FROM TIP TO TAIL, then (without flipping) you go back to passes from TAIL TO TIP while creating the new burr to the other side?
Work Sharp released the professional version two freekin' months after I bought a KME! Don't get me wrong. I'm a big fan of the KME. It's a great system. That's why I bought it, but I like the Work Sharp better. (The precision adjustment screw makes it a lot easier to set a precise angle, not to mention that it comes with an digital angle finder.) Two freekin' months! They did the same damn thing when I bought the original Worksharp sharpener. Three weeks later the Ken Onion Edition comes out!
how do you feel about wood strops with gunny juice? i tend to like a balsa/bass wood strop better because i find my angle way easier. should i put more pressure then a leather strop?
Are you saying when your sharpening one side of the blade with like say 600 grit and you have your Bur then instead of fipping it to other side go to 800 grit and keep sharpening to get the scratch pattern smoother then flip the blade and just do like 5 strokes to remove the Bur.
Hey Jerad, I have a question. Do you ever oil your knife blades?
I get a wicked edge, but feel I can improve. I struggle to confidently identify a burr. Even after many passes. I just assume I have rough hands and don't feel it. Seems more difficult with premium steels - Magnacut or maxamet recently.
Should i sharpen my tip at a different angle? For example my belly of my pocket knife is 20° but my tip cant get a burr.. the bezel of my tip is also way bigger then the bevel. If i am not mistaken i can get my tip sharp by increasing thze angle a bit for the tip. Correct me if im wrong please
No! The reason your having an issue is the thickness behind the edge changes on many knives so your bevel will be bigger and take more tip in those particular areas. If needed get it in 2 sessions or even 3 as you don't need it to be perfect if it's going to require alot of steel removal.
@NeevesKnives thanks buddy! Im sharpening a Microtech Stitch partially serrated. I have actually achieved a sharper belly then factory! Like scary sharp! The tip needs 1 or 2 more sessions do. Much appreciated for the tip!
No pun intended! XD
Thank you for all the great content. My one problem is when I do the light reverse strokes with my final stone it changes the scratch pattern from all going one direction to scratches going 2 directions. I tried not doing the reverse strokes with final stone and only minimal stropping with 5 micron juice and I still am getting 2 scratch patterns. My final stone is 50 micron. Any advice?
Then you are applying to much pressure no pressure at all you only want the burr on apex to make light contact in order to snag off, if only forward directions work best for you then do what works for sure. You can come back to other techniques in future. Another thing depending on the steels hardness will depend on how easily it breaks off. If mine take a lot of effort in many cases I will finish off with forward strokes on each side without causing a burr. Also what grit are you deburring on?
@@NeevesKnives Sharpening s30v, ctx, and spy27 type steels. All pretty similar. I am sharpening to 50micron venev as my last stone as I like a lot of bight. Then going to 5micron juice on leather for deburring. Thanks for the help
@monicaflamm9006 also your angle might be a factor as well, but it does depend.
Is it possible to lessen the angle for the bottom of the blade???
i notice you mostly sharpen smaller knives. Have you tried any bigger kitchen knives? especially with this work sharp per pro. i have a similar set up and im having trouble with the clamping system not holding strong, it flexes as i get to tip. any suggestions?
Hold it with your hand. I always treat the clamp as an aid, but your other hand should be the main thing that keeps the blade firm and not moving. If you don't like to use your hand to support the blade there are 3D printed supports you can buy online. But they are much less flexible and clumsy to use if the knife is large, as you will need to support the different parts of the knife as stone move. Hand is best.
Hey. I’m sorry but I can’t for the life of me find the aftermarket stone holder you’re showing at the beginning of your video. I’ve tried all the links you provided, but can’t seem to find it. I recently bought the new Professional Precision Adjust Work Sharp sharpener (like the one you’re using), but I want to expand its capabilities like you suggest (using more stones). Will you PLEASE, PLEASE either make another video or at least a Short naming and describing the stone holder you’re using??? Thanks SO MUCH and, as always, I REALLY enjoy all your content! Thanks again! ;-}. MM
So i just finished me first try with a worksharp elite. But i didnt spend enough time going through the finer grits once I got that initial burr like you said. Would you recommend going over again or just wait til the knife gets dull. It cuts very well but with the naked eye you can see the pattern isnt even.
Just wait until it gets dull, because if you have the precision elite then it's not going to matter much, the jump from the last diamond to the ceramic is to big there needs to be one or 2 stones more before the ceramic If you want an ultra fine edge, however the ceramic will be a great way to do your burr removal, you can get an aftermarket stone holder in order to get better stones btw
If you have the same system from this video the professional then it's kinda the same thing, another reason i recommend getting the aftermarket stone holder, there's a really good one in my Hapstone link that's in my most recent videos for both systems, it will be back in stock in about a week or 2
@NeevesKnives I have the pm2 and I noticed the holder for the worksharp doesn't allow the stone to hit the corner of the hilt/plunge. I'll look into the aftermarket holder just for that reason alone.
Thank you for the hot tips…😊
Gonna have to snag that attachment
Thanks for sharing bud!👊🏻I have seen people just go straight up and down I believe it was on a work sharp video is that not good to do even if you make sure to be even with it same amount of strokes?
if all the teeth are straight up and down then its fine, kind of like a factory edge done on a belt thats how they are. but you dont want the teeth running all different directions
@@NeevesKnives thanks still learning on the sharpening side for sure
What’s a good set of after market diamond stones to use with the new adapter?
you can find the ones i recommend in the neevesknives store in description just go to sharpening supplies the ones you want would be 1x6
Thanks again for great video
Where do you get the stone holder you mentioned
linked in the description, check out the neeveknives store with sharpening supplies
Great tips, thank you.
Great video. Thanks!
Thanku
Great vid Jared. I've been tempted to pick up the Worksharp Pro. I have the original. It's not bad, but man does it fall short in a lot of ways. Do you think the Pro is worth it, or should I just bite the bullet and buy a T.S. Prof? I've been hand sharpening lately, but it really sucks when you need to re-profile some of the crazy hard steels.
i do think the ws pro is worth it for sure its really good but the tsprof is better for sure also more expensive
Excellent, thanks.
Thank you.
Appreciate the info!
Do you still offer sharpening services?
Thanks Jerad!!! 👊
I very much appreciate your efforts here to show the importance of proper sharpening. particularly the importance of the microscopic teeth. Years ago I tried it vain to explain this over on BF' to no avail. I was told that it was completely wrong. Particularly by one individual who toted himself as an Engineer in Metallurgy. When I did a deep dive on his qualifications turned out he as only a trade school student and not an accredited Metallurgist at all. Yet he was treated there as the god of steel.
Virtually every thing he taught there was dead wrong. I won't give his name here as he is now deceased, I still see his name as the guru of knife steels. GRRRRRRR!!! A complete fraud and never made a knife in his life. I finally gave up trying to educate the masses there.
Like you I have done extensive testing over the years in the business and have been a maker of fine knives for over 50 year. Hard not to learn a few things in all that time. ;
Well done
Do you use any compound etc, when running the stones on a Precision work sharp?
what do you mean?
@@NeevesKnives do you wet the stones with anything on the work sharp setup
@@jeronimo2152 NO BUT I DO HAVE SOME, WHEN I USE WHETSTONES I USUALLY FREEHAND BUT I DO HAVE THE STONES FOR SYSTEMS
@@NeevesKnives could of swore I saw bubbles on a stone in this video... No?
@@jeronimo2152 USUALLY WITH SYSTEMS DIAMONDS ARE THE BEST BECAUSE THEY CUT FAST AND WITH SMALLER STONES IT TAKES A LONG TIME IF THE STONES ARE NOT DIAMOND
DUH!! Never mind! Don’t ask me how I missed it the first time, but I found it!😅😎
Cool video thanks.
Great video
Great video!
where can i find video on the basics for work sharp?
Go into my sharpening playlist I have a ton of work sharp vids
you can go ever the tip you just have to follow the path of the edge ... dont know if thats a sin but like that at teast the tip doesnt get rounded off... got a pretty good edge like that yesterday on my folder
im not sure what you mean if you mean side to side ?
Let’s go!!!
Let’s get some shipping to Canada please 😅
🙏🙏
quite trickey. :)
fixed angle only gets thicker and your knives perform poorer and the sharpening eventually takes longer. then you have to thin it and alot of fixed systems cant do an accute enough angle to thin.
Sharpening takes materials off the edge and eventually moves edge towards the thicker part of the blade. This is true for any sharpening. And with any sharpening method you are almost always aiming for consistency and fixed angles. Even a convex profile needs consistency and you are essentially creating many bevels with gradually decreasing FIXED angle at each level.
you need to get out of your parents basement.
😯😯👌👀👀👏👏👍🏻👍🏻
Don't forget to hit the like button on your way out peeps! 😉
thank you
I cant be bothered with fixed angle systems. Most knife bros extremely over complicate things, and usually don't understand them anyway. Guys who for instance think you need 20 grits to do a knife edge and stuff like that. Guys who start out with something like 50 grit. Just the amount of ignorance youd be fighting against trying to teach knife bros is too much.
I found fixed angle systems really makes a night and day difference for high carbide super steels like M390 and above. These steels in my experience are extremely intolerant to variations in angle as apex easily chips away even after tiny variations in contact angle with the stone. This was the main reason why some people complained these steels are hard to sharpen.
With a VERY steady hand you might be able to sharpen these steels to a good edge but you may find it takes longer (many people mistakenly think it was mainly because it was hard to remove the materials, but actually the other big cause is what I mentioned above), because you will be finding the edge remains dull not realising the tiny mistakes that caused micro chipping. And even if you achieve a good edge, it may hold for less time, because the small variations in angle inevitable during freehand sharpening will almost guarantees to introduce micro fractures along the carbide-steel interfaces in the molecular structure and cause the edge to microchip faster as you cut stuff.
With fixed angle system you dramatically reduce such variations and you will find that the blade will be sharpened in no time, even with minimal materials removed.
I used to do everything freehand on Japanese Waterstones but after poor performance on super steels I figured out why and bought a fixed angle system. After that there is no return. With same set of stones the differences are significant.
@@tonglianheng I use resin bonded diamond stones for vanadium steels without issue. Low grit ceramic stones work fine too. So do 3M diamond films.
🙏🙏🙏 Thanks for this 🙏🙏🙏
Very informative and some great tips. Great channel
Great information, Thank you