Lots of people asking what the tuner was. This is the "Orion" tuner from Power Hungry Performance. Bob with Power Hungry also wrote us to say they are fixing the 128 mph bug in the code.
Um... That would be *BILL* with Power Hungry. LOL Thanks for sharing that. We greatly appreciate it!!! If you have any questions at all, please reach out.
Honest opinion, that TC is your first fix. It will address "most" of your concerns. Bouncing off 3k isn't helping EGT's, fuel mileage, or being kind to the trans. A flush and fill will help as an intermediate band-aid too. You gotta remember, all that time idling, that ATF was cycling and getting warm. A suggestion though, if you're going to have it down to change a TC, might think about a 5 speed from an F350. If I remember right, they used the same S5-42. You could get a non-pto version and get rid of half the stuff clogging up under the truck, or keep the PTO for a hydraulic pump. Hydraulics = all kinds of fun stuff like a tilt bed, jib crane, etc. Or onboard air.
The truck being a 99 model year with the T444E and a 4 speed Allison transmission, you got the AT545 in it. The transmission has no lockup converter in it and doesn't handle a ton of additional power very well but they are robust units. A transmission swap would be ideal, and my suggestion would be an Allison 2500PTS. Those transmissions were used in a school bus application and they have hardened internals to deal with the job. Though that is my suggestion, you have quite a few options available for transmission swaps as others in the comments stated.
@@Motiv8Labs Yeah that’s typically how it goes. I got a school bus that has one of the 2500PTS transmissions equipped, and I’ve had no issues with it. Bus itself is a 2006 IC CE200 with around 145,000 on the clock, and the transmission still runs through the gears without issue. What would make it better for your application in the truck is that it is a five speed instead of four. Later generations are capable of unlocking sixth with tweaks to the transmission computer.
2600 rpm is a high cruising rpm This is excellent advice as a lockup converter for a diesel is vitally important as anyone that has owned a 12 valve Cummins truck from 94 to 97 can tell you. Those things will wail away going up a hill pulling a trailer on the converter and as soon as the converter locks up off it will go lighting the turbo and easily accelerating. That is why 4 of my 6 Cummins trucks are standard trans. Better acceleration and pulling power.
With power mods the truck could definitely benefit from longer gearing. Yeah it’ll pull some torque back out of it but with tuning and modifications you’ll net more torque in the end. With some nice long gearing you’ll be able to cruise at 70 at lower rpm which will keep the engine and transmission super happy, as well as give way better fuel econ
@@pob_car 2.64-2.79 axle Ratio would be ideal. It also helps utilize the torque of the diesel. High RPM gears are a carryover from the gas engine days and it ruins the diesel advantage by forcing high RPM
As with any diesel you need to roll into the power, it gives the turbo a bit of time to catch up so you are not blowing smoke, That's over 50 years of driving trucks speaking. Black smoke is just wasted fuel, lots of young fellas think rolling coal is cool but it is the fastest way I know to catch the attention of the smog police(EPA), just not worth it. Lots of companies make a living of blowing smoke, but Gale Banks does some very cool stuff with the 7.3 and it burns clean. If you just take it easy with your right foot that engine/ trans. should last a long time. If you really want to hear the turbo run a stack up the side of the cab. lol
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah the flooring it from a deadstop really was only for this test while not hauling anything. I can tell doing it with a trailer or load and the transmission will probably be sitting on the road behind the truck.
Since 128 is a multiple of 16, my bet would be that the programming rolled over to zero. Setting it to 127 might have worked. Anyways that where I would have looked first for debugging.
I would suggest buying a spare cam and crank position sensor. IPR valve with pigtail and possibly an ICP sensor w pigtail. Change the connector before you change the sensor though. Those are all fairly common failure points the triple 4 and most HPOP systems. The 110Vdv is the from the “IDM (injector driver module) /FICM (fuel injector control module)” to fire the injectors. Other failure points are the valve cover gaskets which have integrated pass thru connectors for the Injectors and glow plugs. If you can get BG EPR or seafoam and run in the oil per their instructions before an oil change, will definitely help the injectors, EPR has helped bring life back into some 6.0s I’ve dealt with.
Thanks for the feedback! I was curious what gremlins might start showing up on this engine and you pretty much called them out. I'll look into it all. Thanks for explaining that 110 VDC too.
@@Motiv8Labs I’d say they aren’t gremlins, just known failure points that cause a crank/no start start condition. A gremlin I just thought of since this truck didn’t see too many miles was losing gauges intermittently, the solder can break on the pins on the back of the instrument cluster which would need a soldered again at best.
Pretty much ONLY the US at this point. As a Canadian we are a mix of both systems for some reason. I understand Celsius and lbs. Feet and inches and km. I don't know why we are like this.
@Yogi_Bear69 I don't get the reluctance to move from inches to millimeters? It's soooo much easier than doing mental somersaults everytime you measure something 😂
@@maadmaxxer7289 If I'm building a house I don't measure in mm no. Plus all the lumber in stores is measured in ft and in. drywall same thing. Everything related to construction is inches because it all comes from the US.
I couldn’t tell where you installed that EGT gauge but depending on if it’s pre or post turbo, the readout can vary 200 degrees. And 200 degrees hotter than 1250 can mean burning a hole in a piston. Sorry if someone already posted this same comment.
@@kennedy796 Looked like the manifold before the up-pipe, so that should be accurate out of the engine. If you go on the up pipe or just before the turbo it will read lower.
This is one of the better videos for power hungry showing what it actually does now hook up the heaveist most unaerodynamic trailer you have and watch the egts . Your biggest issue above 55 mph is wind resistance my old 180hp non turbo 7.3 idi had no problems pulling 20klbs until i hit 55 mph then egts would start going through the roof on hills .
Amazing how governed that thing was from factory, and drive by wire on the throttle for the age! Some crazy contraption PTO sprayer thing going on there.
The governor was probably set per the customer, a lot of people abuse company equipment when they don’t have to foot the bill. Or the tps on the pedal, they are built with dual sensors one will read 0-5v the other 5-0v, if there’s a mismatch you lose throttle rather than a potential runaway.
@Madmax_402 The governor was set from the factory, so the motor will not blow . He should have tried the factory specs first to see if the truck was getting factory hp . The rpm is set by the transmission and rear end . To get the speed and rpm, he wants he need a taller rear-end .
The dt466 is a hell of an engine, and probably would have preferred it over the V8, but the V8's were fine for medium duty. We had many of them in the schools buses that bigger and heavier than that little truck, and they held up great.
I am a 7.3 guy. I have 4 left from my company. My brother in law "had" a Sea Ray AmberJack 34 with twin 7.3 from Mercruiser. There is a guy back east that bought everything that merc had. People have done conversions with Duramax..GREAT IDEA for cruising
I had a 2000 F250 with the 235hp 7.3 and a 2003 f350 with the 275 hp 7.3. Absolutely loved them. Both had the zf 6 speed manual. 500 and 525 lb ft, respectively. Great trucks. Make sure you keep the coolant treated so you don't wind up getting pinholes in the passages.
In Texas if the speed limit says 75 but people often drive 85-95, at least now he’s going the out of state driver speed 😂 I think they even have a highway with an 85mph speed limit!
I always liked these older international medium duty trucks. I always wanted one for a daily driver. I learned to drive truck in its big brother, single screw heavy duty rated for 120k lbs pulling triples. I ran doubles a lot weighing ~80k I could pull 3miles 6% grade at 65 mph. I don trembler what motor it had but I had 10 speed transmission
I have the 96 F250 non intercooled version of that 7.3. 15 pounds of boost is all my stock turbo will give but it's enough. I have an EGT sensor I need to install. Just haven't done it. Great video. Oh, we call those "medium duty" trucks. I drive one similar at work.
Love to see that you are bringing old iron out of retirement. I am going to echo what someone else already said. The truck would greatly benefit from a gearing change in the rear. Best time to do it will be when you swap out or rebuild the transmission. I am guessing that you are running a 5.44 or higher gear ratio. The truck was not designed to run faster than 60. If you do go for a gear swap then might I recommend a 4.55 or a 4.11 gear ratio. The 4.11 will greatly improve the fuel mileage and bring the RPM way down at 70 but you will sacrifice pulling power. 4.55 will pull better but the RPM will be higher costing you more fuel. Hope this give you some food for thought :D
I would just use 650 = good, 675 = careful and 700 = limit for the EGT. I'd add a temp gauge for the transmission and a good cooler if it doesn't have it. I imagine the Jet boat isn't that heavy though, so it should be ok.
Drove my 2001 international 4900 with a dt466e from middle of iowa to northern illinois. I could barely get to 55. Total dog. It was kinda quick to like 30 so it was good city driving.
COMING OUT OF THE HEAD AND BEFORE TURBO THE TEMPERATURE SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 1100 DEGREES! IF IT PERSISTS IN 1200/1300 DEGREES DROP ONE GEAR ON THE TRANSMISSION AND REDUCE ENGINE LOAD!! HARD LUGGING AN ENGINE BREAKS STUFF! AN ENGINE THAT SOUNDS HAPPY IS THE ONE THAT LASTS!!
Shipboard engines do every cylinder usually while still in the head, before, and after the turbo. Critical is the hot cylinder. Before and after turbo gives a relative of turbo performance, need for cleaning, and stack fires. Have fun
We've had a few internationals like that.. the last one was a dt466e inline diesel... most gutless diesel engine ive ever experienced so you definitely got the better engine with the 7.3.. We put a brand new transmission in it and a week later it showed us what the rods look like. If you need a rebuilt 545 with 70 miles on it let me know
drove many tow trucks with that set up, but manual trans...INTERNATIONAL purposely sets them low to avoid liabilities. but yes, they got plenty left when you bump the tune.
@@Motiv8Labs the trans issues can be something as simple as a low stall converter getting "freaked out" by the up rated power output compared to the fairly tame stock levels. a ten second acceleration boost is probably a bit spicy for a stock transmission, and I'd be using that only when you need to merge quickly. other wise keep it as a reserve and drive it a bit more conservatively. or, get a tranny shop to make sure the bands and steels aren't overly cooked from too much high load and crawling on uneven ground in near stall conditions.
15,000 hours is about 900,000 miles. The 120vac is what controls thr fuel injectors. EGT probe goes after turbo on dual manifold usually, also 1400° is after turbo.
The thermocouple on the 7.3L is always installed pre-turbo, usually in the driver's side manifold. Long standing EGT limits are exactly what he stayed... 1200 is fine with 1250 sustained for longer period, and 1300 for short bursts. If the thermocouple were installed post turbo and then allowed to reach 1400, the EGTs at the exhaust ports would be 1600+ and would burn the exhaust valves as well as the exhaust turbine. These engines cannot handle high EGTs for long periods of time.
@@BillCohron no it's not "always" installed pre turbo. Many are post turbo. And yes those limits are pre turbo temps. If temp probe is after turbo it's reading 300 higher then at manifold so 1400 after is 1100 manifold
We have a retired school bus with the same engine/trans combo. Had the computer tuned.... that thing is snappy and will cruise at 80 all day long. Doesn't even notice a hill. For a bit of extra power and mpg a good exhaust is a must, as free flowing as your ears can stand. Turbo's hate backpressure. Clean oil is critical. The DT444E/7.3PS hates dirt and sludge. Changed more than one set of injectors due to owners neglecting oil changes. With that sort of idle time I'd seriously consider yanking the oil pan for a good cleaning.
I agree with some of the comments about the manual swap. With a good clutch. The eaton/spicer that came in these trucks should be a pretty straight forward swap.. lots of these trucks in the junk yards for big trucks.. or parked up in fields not being used.
Personally it just needs a powertrain revamp! bigger turbo, bigger injectors, a inline fuel pump finally a better transmission luckily most of these can be salvaged from other diesel big rigs, school busses esc at a scrap yard.
gopowerhungry.com this is their Orion Reflash System for Navistar systems. I’m not vouching for them yet since I’ve only messed with it a few days. Seems be working ok though.
I sent a DM to your insta of my international build. Currently the biggest thing limiting you is the AT545 transmission you have. But the motor's themselves have a good aftermarket thanks to the 7.3PS and most issues or things to watch out for are well documented. There are a few oddities on these that don't translate well from the fords. Such as the downpipes, I had to fabricate my own while upgrading the turbo. But for the most part it's straight forward.
Sorry to disappoint ya but the 7.3 PS was designed (under contract) for Ford and adapted for road trucks (DT466E) and later on adapted by Mercury as a marine power plant. The only (that I know of) diesel designed by IH for marine use was the Cursader 9.0L. With that being said IH did provide several gas engines for marine use. You my be thinking of the Cummins BT series, they put that thing in EVERYTHING prior to Dodge making their deal.
I know in the f series trucks that 23.4 is the max that the manifold pressure sensor understands. It sets a code for excessive manifold pressure when you hit that. With a mechanical gauge some report actual boost as much as 30psi.
What a great video. 80 is posted in Dallas area's so cops don't bother you in a (Car) up to the 90's mph. In the Dallas area that truck would have been thrown in the scrap yards and you saved some good American steel to live on the road agin. I definitely did subscribe If you can find one the International Harvester TravelAll 1961/69 will get clicks and views and a Cummins Diesel just makes them nice like a old Mercedes wagon, ya know it's unique but not down right goofy like a trucktor.
More videos with this truck please. Had a 2000 with a 19' roll back tow truck with a dt466 and the thing was a tank had a 110km/h limiter like yours whuch was fine for pur two lane roads but not for highway speeds. People used to get a kick put of watching me wheel the thing into figure 8s and big sloppy drifts through the parking lots in the winter time..
My brother put stiffer governor springs in a 408 and then it started blowing turbo boots so he turned the fuel down to avoid changing the turbo. We were pretty sure someone turned the fuel up before we got it. There is always variables and problems you dont know about until it happens. The problem we had with the 408 and 6 speed manual was when after shifting you had a couple hundred rpm to gain to be in power. Either figure out if it was fueling or turbo incapable of sufficient boost, the choice was to increase the governor so it could get above 3k under acceleration.
I would have sent it at the 300 horsepower setting, the engine came rated for that so it’s safe, If you wanted to do injectors, and turbo, then I’d be more worried about it. That being said I admire your willpower, I have scattered my fair share of motors
gopowerhungry.com this is their Orion Reflash System for Navistar systems. I’m not vouching for them yet since I’ve only messed with it a few days. Seems be working ok though.
Be careful with the AT545 transmssion, if that's what it's got. 230HP is the design limit for the transmission. it LIKES to spin fast (2000 rpm is the minimum input shaft speed for the pump to generate full pressure), but be aware that with no lockup converter, when you're pulling a load you HAVE to keep an eye on the transmssion temp, as the converter will generating LOTS of heat. I have one in my motorhome behind a cummins 12 valve, and I end up driving it by the temp gauge.
I have had 2 of those LPXs they are great little trucks. Back in the day it was hard to find a tune back in the day and International/ Navistar was no help. You can change the ECM to a Ford power stroke to get a tune on it. Initially I would not worry about the Allison shifting they shift funky compared to what you are used to with a normal car or truck transmission. If it does take a dump put an Allison world transmission 1000 and up series to get more gears and an overdrive. or manual it. The rears gears are also low and it is hard to find a more highway ratio for them. and you should be able to go to a junk yard to find the factory A/C components to put A/C in it the cabs are all the same in all the S series or 4700 to 8100 series. Some of them also had air ride rear suspension. Most of those LPX series trucks were made for Trugreen a nation wide lawn spray co. They did produce others some with automatic and manual transmissions for other applications But all the LPXs had 7.3 power. The also made a limited amount of crew cabs which are rare. I am looking to find another one myself for a little toter. 22.5 low profile tires will help some what with the low gear deal and still give the low profile look. Good luck have fun with her.
Thanks for the all the feedback. That's exactly what this was, a Trugreen truck. Still has one of the Trugreen stickers in the cab. I'll look into trying to find some cheapo 22.5 wheels and tires. The rear end says Spicer 3.54 on the label, so I was curious if they made anything less for a gear ratio on those.
If you can find parts or a donor to get the most out of a little 7.3 in those manual swap is best, the other allisons with lockup converter will help yes, but will still be a power suck compared to a manual.
65 MPH on a 75 MPH highway isn't bad people dont care they just go around you. Just stay in the right lane. I went around Grandpa doing 55 MPH I was doing 70 in a big rig on I-80 Nebraska near Grand Island just went around him no issues I didn't care. It's actually safer at slower speeds with big trucks because trying to stop is the hardest part of driving a commercial vehicle.
I mean doing 65 in that is plenty. Especially pulling a trailer. I dont go over that pulling my camper. It was governed there with the gearing it has to keep the engine in its happy spot
That international truck sounds more like a Ford 7.3 powerstroke f-250 sounds awesome turbo whistle 😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
So I have a 1995 School bus with the same exact setup as your rig. Same engine and chassis. I did the upgrade you did to 210HP from 175HP, and my AT545 transmission slipped almost instantly. It wouldn't pick up gear after 2nd and I had to wait for it to cool down for it to work again. It's too much HP and will slip past. The AT545 only can handle 400lbs of torque, and 210HP will blast right through that and cause it to slip. Until I upgrade my transmission to AT1000 6 speed, I'm stuck at 175HP. I'd like to see a video if you upgrading the transmission on a 6 port J1708. that would be a feat.
Thanks for the feedback! Good to hear from someone with a school bus setup. I started reading some of the schoolie message boards about people doing transmission swaps. That AT1000 sounds like it would be great if a standalone transmission controller would work.
My theory as an engineer for why the throttle didn't work is how binary numbers are stored. And that the actual max is 127, because it starts at 0. To get 128 you'd have to add a binary place. So that likely caused an overflow either when the ECM was being programmed or in the ECM itself. Anyway, no manual swap it!
don't know if you mentioned it in the few places I skipped by, but honestly along with that final tune, you just need to some bigger 19.5 or 22.5 wheels and tires. Those little 17.5 wheels are not helping your speed and gearing. Some taller rubber will get your cruising RPM down and hopefully increase fuel economy and will technically be easier to do versus a rear end rebuild. Facebook marketplace will always have some old 22.5 Alcoa's up for ale and sometimes with good rubber too for cheap.
I second this. It’s nearly a bolt in swap, just need to remove the bellhousing adapter, have the driveshaft shortened, and possibly redo the cooler lines. That or find a donor truck with a manual
@billwhitis9997 - 1) The 7.3L engine is perfectly capable of handling 3000+ RPM just fine. Of course it's not ideal and the fuel economy will absolutely tank, but the engine is perfectly capable of handling it. Yes, 2100 RPM would be considerably more ideal, but it's not going to happen with the current transmission. 2) Most of these trucks are geared specifically for 55 - 65 MPH. This specific truck has a 3.54 gear with Lo-Pro tires that are 621 Rev/Mile. At best, this would yield 2383 RPM at 65 MPH, but that doesn't take into account that the converter does not lock so the RPM will actually be higher. 3.54 is already a pretty tall gear, and the chassis is not really set up to go with the taller 22.5 tires, so that leaves just changing the transmission to something with an Overdrive gear. With a 0.61 6th gear and lockup converter, the later Allisons would actually to bring the RPM down to 1548 at 65 MPH, which is actually going to be a bit low, so I'd probably just keep it in 5th which would yield 1786 RPM at 65. The ideal setup would be to switch to a 6 speed Allison and regear to a 4.30 or 4.56 gear. 3) Under load, the turbo actually spools harder and the EGTs really shouldn't be much of an issue. He'd likely not see much difference loaded or unloaded. Of course, he can always back down 1 level and see if that helps an EGT concerns.
Naw we got you beat with our schoolie, she only good for 55 mph and that’s on a good day with no hills. 0-60 in about a minute 😮 and we were in Texas also at some point but back in MD now 😢😂
The first parameter in Parameter Block 79 enables, or disables speed limiter. The last parameter defines the speed limit, up to 127 MPH, if first parameter is set to Enabled. You may need to check that.
You might have the MT643 transmission. It is good for 250 hp and has lockup on the top two gears. Looks like it from the underneath camera you had going. If it is the 545 you might want to swap for the 643. They are cheap and very robust.
@Motiv8Labs they are both four-speed direct and the 643 will bolt up but be sure to get one off an application with the same RPM range or you have to change the shift solenoids. The 545 is fine for Texas though. Just don't hammer on it accelerating when you have a load on it. it's a decent medium duty transmission and for what you're doing it'll be fine even at 250 horse if you don't abuse it.
I drive a 40 year old army truck as a daily driver and it has a top speed of 45 mph. My army truck has 140 horsepower and it gets by just fine. Who cares if you’re not going the speed limit the minimum speed is 40 mph on the freeway. These trucks are old and don’t have the power that new ones do because they needed to be reliable and new trucks are designed to go faster and break down more often. I wouldn’t worry about it. And careful to not overrev the engine. 2500 rpm is a little bit high I’d keep it under 2000 rpm. These cranks were designed for high rpm’s for a long period of time. Whenever you tune anything it leads to a domino effect. It’s best to leave it stock. Leave it the way it came from the factory.
There's probably a good reason why that truck tops out at 65 mph. Everybody wants to push the envelope and they wind up with a whole new set of problems, and sometimes failures.
@@dw7094 exactly. Older trucks were designed to go 55 mph and the more power you push out of an engine, the more heat the engine creates and that is the cause of tons of failures not to mention the transmission that is now being stressed.
Funny 4 years on mine and it's a mild build 160/0s and a KC turbo. There are also plently of people on the forums running 400-500hp 7.3s in their light duties grossing 30k without issues. These international trucks were made to run at the rev limit which was 2500/2600 non OD manual transmissions which would get them to the 55mph gear bound usually happens at 65. Two gentlemen I know still have their 4900s with DT446s they bough from the factory in 91 for their company. They are also still bumping the rev limiter towing and hauling and they've never had a rebuild or any signs of needing a rebuild. His case is just a little extra detrimental due to the AT545 which is a non lockup which made sense for school busses starting and stopping. People think that diesels like low RPM and end up lugging the motors causing EGTs to raise making it harder on the engine. But they don't question the tow/haul buttons or on the same light duty 7.3s that is a OD off/ON for use while towing heavy in the hills. The tow hauls drops down a gear to keep the RPMs up where the turbo is lit, The fan running faster pulling air through the radiator, and the water pump moving coolant quicker. If you have a manual stock truck with a load on a hill you can psychically watch this with an EGT gauge. Lugging the motor at those lower RPMs on a pull you can watch the EGTs start creeping up and it only gets worse with the longer of a pull will be over 1250 and that's on a stock truck.. Then if you swap to a lower gear and raise RPM you can watch it drop. Which 1250 isn't a bad thing in short intervals It's when you heat soak a motor that's when the aluminum pistons start melting. Which guess what That slow speed low RPM you are totting is the ideal situation for heat soak.
Opinions are like belly buttons. Having said that. I owned my 7.3 Ford for 21 years. I put the truck on a dyno with stock turbo and injectors at BD performance. I got 315hp and 748trq. I used the truck to haul tractors and farm equipment with it regularly and a 17k load with my trailer with a car in it. I used TS performance chip and ATS for the stage 4 transmission. The trans went 19 years without a hiccup.
Ran a truck like that and the trans felt slippy from new. It got worse but never failed. I climbed Allegheny mountains every day with it for years. Run that trans and converter until she fails. If that truck drove around underpowered for all its life doing lawn care and idling most its life… you should have plenty of life left in the trans.
If the speed limiter is an 8bit signed integer (odd that it'd be signed, but totally possible), then the max value is actually 127. Forcing it to 128 would make it go to negatives and turn the throttle off because you are always over the max speed limit. If you want, try 127. If that fixes it, then that's the issue.
That was kind of like the truck chassis our fire engine had when I was a firefighter, the speed governor was limited to 62 mph, and you actually wouldn't want to go much faster than that carrying two thousand gallons of water! The brakes could very easily overheat and fail.
Take an old Ford 7.4 liter turbo diesel engine and transmission and put it in that truck and you will be cruising at 85 miles per hour at an idle! I use to drive a few box trucks back in the 1990's with that type of engine. When the truck was empty, it would do burnouts from a dead stop with hardly pushing the accelerator! The truck was way over powered, but it had a 26 foot box and we used to pull a 24 foot trailer containing all sorts of heavy stuff. There definitely was no limiter on it.
Since you have a THIMBLE full of truck know how . Ya want better high way ground speed and NOT scream the motor ya need to change rear end gears . With truck rear end ration . and tire size tells yqa how fast your going to beat the pavement . Your pyro probe should have been installeed AFTER the turbo NOT before because if the probe BURNS OFF what is left will go thru the turbo and munch the turbo. With your truck i would r3ecomend a 3.90 gear in the back. and maybe ya can go to a 3.78 .
As a retired trucker with 46 yrs over the road its beyond me why any sane person would want to travel faster than 65 mph in one of those farmyard Ferrari's.
What will be the biggest downside of the programming is that all the numbers you got really mean nothing, until you hook up a load to it then test it, what some people do is put the horsepower on medium or high, but when they run it on a load it doesn't take long before it heats up, and you have to back out of it, especially pulling hills or mountain areas, that Pyro will be your best friend .
A question. Are you building a hauler, or a large pickup? Set your sights, but don't try for both. Unless you have lots of cash. The carnage will be spectacular.😱😎 Best wishes from ~2,000 miles North.
Lots of people asking what the tuner was. This is the "Orion" tuner from Power Hungry Performance. Bob with Power Hungry also wrote us to say they are fixing the 128 mph bug in the code.
Um... That would be *BILL* with Power Hungry. LOL Thanks for sharing that. We greatly appreciate it!!! If you have any questions at all, please reach out.
@@BillCohronYou're him?
@@SpeedLimit8585 Aye, laddie. That would be me. ;-)
Honest opinion, that TC is your first fix. It will address "most" of your concerns. Bouncing off 3k isn't helping EGT's, fuel mileage, or being kind to the trans. A flush and fill will help as an intermediate band-aid too. You gotta remember, all that time idling, that ATF was cycling and getting warm. A suggestion though, if you're going to have it down to change a TC, might think about a 5 speed from an F350. If I remember right, they used the same S5-42. You could get a non-pto version and get rid of half the stuff clogging up under the truck, or keep the PTO for a hydraulic pump. Hydraulics = all kinds of fun stuff like a tilt bed, jib crane, etc. Or onboard air.
Thanks for the feedback. I’m seeing a few people swap in the 5 or 6 speed Allisons so that might be an option one day.
@@Motiv8Labs Home country of unsynchronized Fuller and talking gearboxes. Starting letter "A" 😁
Hi sir, do you have a link to where i can purchase the similar tuner modules?
Definitely interested in finding a five or six speed for my 95 4700, can you share a link for that tuner?@@Motiv8Labs
All the information I was about to suggest. Until you get the tc figured out I might retune it to level 3. That pto stuff has to be a parasitic drag.
The truck being a 99 model year with the T444E and a 4 speed Allison transmission, you got the AT545 in it. The transmission has no lockup converter in it and doesn't handle a ton of additional power very well but they are robust units. A transmission swap would be ideal, and my suggestion would be an Allison 2500PTS. Those transmissions were used in a school bus application and they have hardened internals to deal with the job. Though that is my suggestion, you have quite a few options available for transmission swaps as others in the comments stated.
Thanks! I found some message board posts about people robbing those out of old busses. I'll keep looking into it.
@@Motiv8Labs Yeah that’s typically how it goes. I got a school bus that has one of the 2500PTS transmissions equipped, and I’ve had no issues with it. Bus itself is a 2006 IC CE200 with around 145,000 on the clock, and the transmission still runs through the gears without issue. What would make it better for your application in the truck is that it is a five speed instead of four. Later generations are capable of unlocking sixth with tweaks to the transmission computer.
2600 rpm is a high cruising rpm
This is excellent advice as a lockup converter for a diesel is vitally important as anyone that has owned a 12 valve Cummins truck from 94 to 97 can tell you. Those things will wail away going up a hill pulling a trailer on the converter and as soon as the converter locks up off it will go lighting the turbo and easily accelerating. That is why 4 of my 6 Cummins trucks are standard trans. Better acceleration and pulling power.
Get off the highway. You’re a danger to everyone. You think you’re funny, but you’re dangerous.
Greetings: I concur
With power mods the truck could definitely benefit from longer gearing. Yeah it’ll pull some torque back out of it but with tuning and modifications you’ll net more torque in the end. With some nice long gearing you’ll be able to cruise at 70 at lower rpm which will keep the engine and transmission super happy, as well as give way better fuel econ
yes
What's the redline on the 7.3, 3500 rpm? I think a manual swap or a locking converter might be a better fix
@@Nothingtoya either that or less, those 7.3’s hate rpm
@@pob_car 2.64-2.79 axle Ratio would be ideal. It also helps utilize the torque of the diesel. High RPM gears are a carryover from the gas engine days and it ruins the diesel advantage by forcing high RPM
No, it won't "pull torque out" , it'll actually benefit from the torque with much taller gearing
As with any diesel you need to roll into the power, it gives the turbo a bit of time to catch up so you are not blowing smoke, That's over 50 years of driving trucks speaking. Black smoke is just wasted fuel, lots of young fellas think rolling coal is cool but it is the fastest way I know to catch the attention of the smog police(EPA), just not worth it. Lots of companies make a living of blowing smoke, but Gale Banks does some very cool stuff with the 7.3 and it burns clean. If you just take it easy with your right foot that engine/ trans. should last a long time. If you really want to hear the turbo run a stack up the side of the cab. lol
Exactly. Gale Banks is the man!
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah the flooring it from a deadstop really was only for this test while not hauling anything. I can tell doing it with a trailer or load and the transmission will probably be sitting on the road behind the truck.
Since 128 is a multiple of 16, my bet would be that the programming rolled over to zero. Setting it to 127 might have worked. Anyways that where I would have looked first for debugging.
Betcha the software guys didn't test that value, either.
128 seems to be negative value, given the value type used there. The flatbed would not move on D since 0 is higher than -128.
As a programmer, this is my thought too, a roll-over from 127 to 0 instead of 128
I love that truck, can't believe everything was there from the factory it was just the tune, lol amazing!!
I would suggest buying a spare cam and crank position sensor. IPR valve with pigtail and possibly an ICP sensor w pigtail. Change the connector before you change the sensor though. Those are all fairly common failure points the triple 4 and most HPOP systems. The 110Vdv is the from the “IDM (injector driver module) /FICM (fuel injector control module)” to fire the injectors. Other failure points are the valve cover gaskets which have integrated pass thru connectors for the Injectors and glow plugs. If you can get BG EPR or seafoam and run in the oil per their instructions before an oil change, will definitely help the injectors, EPR has helped bring life back into some 6.0s I’ve dealt with.
Thanks for the feedback! I was curious what gremlins might start showing up on this engine and you pretty much called them out. I'll look into it all. Thanks for explaining that 110 VDC too.
@@Motiv8Labs I’d say they aren’t gremlins, just known failure points that cause a crank/no start start condition. A gremlin I just thought of since this truck didn’t see too many miles was losing gauges intermittently, the solder can break on the pins on the back of the instrument cluster which would need a soldered again at best.
@Madmax There is no crank sensor in these engines. Just the cam sensor. And yes, it's definitely worth keeping one in the glove box or tool box.
From UK. Saw the EGT in Celsius and thought, "oh good, numbers I'll understand" 😂
Pretty much ONLY the US at this point. As a Canadian we are a mix of both systems for some reason. I understand Celsius and lbs. Feet and inches and km. I don't know why we are like this.
@Yogi_Bear69 I don't get the reluctance to move from inches to millimeters? It's soooo much easier than doing mental somersaults everytime you measure something 😂
@@maadmaxxer7289 If I'm building a house I don't measure in mm no. Plus all the lumber in stores is measured in ft and in. drywall same thing. Everything related to construction is inches because it all comes from the US.
That tune REALLY gave it some gusto. I'd almost think for safety, you'd back the tune off 1 peg and see if it's still adequate.
Check your tires, they probably aren't rated for more than 75mph. Just something to keep in mind
I run cows and that doesn't mean shit
I couldn’t tell where you installed that EGT gauge but depending on if it’s pre or post turbo, the readout can vary 200 degrees. And 200 degrees hotter than 1250 can mean burning a hole in a piston. Sorry if someone already posted this same comment.
Probably guessing before the turbo since he mentioned putting the sensor in the driver's side manifold
@@kennedy796 Looked like the manifold before the up-pipe, so that should be accurate out of the engine. If you go on the up pipe or just before the turbo it will read lower.
LOL that's great, that is actually a TRUCK for towing in the rest of the world and not those fancy ass pick ups
Definitely not fancy but should get the job done, I hope.
but them fancy ass pick ups will tow 10x better 😂
@@josethebeast2236tow what 10x better? I've hauled loads with a 5 ton that most fancy pickup trucks would just fold in half under
@@kennedy796 maybe a 1500 but a 2500 and 3500 cam handle 5 ton without folding
@@JosephSanders-k6m He was hauling with a 5 ton truck. He wasn't hauling 5 tons.
This is one of the better videos for power hungry showing what it actually does now hook up the heaveist most unaerodynamic trailer you have and watch the egts . Your biggest issue above 55 mph is wind resistance my old 180hp non turbo 7.3 idi had no problems pulling 20klbs until i hit 55 mph then egts would start going through the roof on hills .
Thanks we'll get the trailer behind it and see how it looks. I gave it pretty much the easiest test with no trailer or cargo on a nice day out here.
Amazing how governed that thing was from factory, and drive by wire on the throttle for the age! Some crazy contraption PTO sprayer thing going on there.
Yeah the old drive by wire is pretty interesting. Probably something that will break soon maybe I should find a spare pedal to keep around.
The governor was probably set per the customer, a lot of people abuse company equipment when they don’t have to foot the bill. Or the tps on the pedal, they are built with dual sensors one will read 0-5v the other 5-0v, if there’s a mismatch you lose throttle rather than a potential runaway.
looks very sketchy. such a weird design
@Madmax_402 The governor was set from the factory, so the motor will not blow . He should have tried the factory specs first to see if the truck was getting factory hp . The rpm is set by the transmission and rear end . To get the speed and rpm, he wants he need a taller rear-end .
Should’ve got the dt466 in that truck. 7.3 v8 was too small for them. It’s all about the torque.
I wish it was the 466, but this was one of those cheapo Craigslist deals that I had to give a shot at.
With a re-gear and a tune and bigger turbo and injectors they really wake them 7.3s up ! Especially for towing
The dt466 is a hell of an engine, and probably would have preferred it over the V8, but the V8's were fine for medium duty. We had many of them in the schools buses that bigger and heavier than that little truck, and they held up great.
I am a 7.3 guy. I have 4 left from my company. My brother in law "had" a Sea Ray AmberJack 34 with twin 7.3 from Mercruiser. There is a guy back east that bought everything that merc had. People have done conversions with Duramax..GREAT IDEA for cruising
That's wild to hear about someone that actually had the marine version. I doubt I'll ever see one of those in real life.
I had a 2000 F250 with the 235hp 7.3 and a 2003 f350 with the 275 hp 7.3. Absolutely loved them. Both had the zf 6 speed manual. 500 and 525 lb ft, respectively. Great trucks. Make sure you keep the coolant treated so you don't wind up getting pinholes in the passages.
65 isn't bad. Based on the title I thought you had a 55 mph truck. Check the speed rating on your trailer tires. Many are 65 mph rated.
In Texas if the speed limit says 75 but people often drive 85-95, at least now he’s going the out of state driver speed 😂 I think they even have a highway with an 85mph speed limit!
@@jonkeau5155yes 85mph speed limit
Love those Interntionals. 300hp tune and a Fuller FSO6406 would be killer. And an exhaust brake
As it is a computer i bet max speed 127 would work ok. As this gives a range of 128 when you count from zero.
8 bit signed is a good guess!
I always liked these older international medium duty trucks. I always wanted one for a daily driver. I learned to drive truck in its big brother, single screw heavy duty rated for 120k lbs pulling triples. I ran doubles a lot weighing ~80k I could pull 3miles 6% grade at 65 mph.
I don trembler what motor it had but I had 10 speed transmission
Long time “diesel guy” here. Welcome to the club and I loved your video.
That is such a cool truck. Great find!
The Freedom Units Converter at 14:30 is 🔥
I have the 96 F250 non intercooled version of that 7.3. 15 pounds of boost is all my stock turbo will give but it's enough. I have an EGT sensor I need to install. Just haven't done it. Great video. Oh, we call those "medium duty" trucks. I drive one similar at work.
That's awesome on the 96. Explains why even used those trucks are still going for so much money, they last forever.
I drove this exact model as a flatbed wrecker for like 2 years, a 97 model 4700LPX. Best truck in our fleet.
That's awesome, I'm liking it so far.
That 0-60 was pretty good, especially for a truck that big. The after tune is crazy, with 110hp in my Prius 0-60 is 10.2
Love to see that you are bringing old iron out of retirement. I am going to echo what someone else already said. The truck would greatly benefit from a gearing change in the rear. Best time to do it will be when you swap out or rebuild the transmission. I am guessing that you are running a 5.44 or higher gear ratio. The truck was not designed to run faster than 60. If you do go for a gear swap then might I recommend a 4.55 or a 4.11 gear ratio. The 4.11 will greatly improve the fuel mileage and bring the RPM way down at 70 but you will sacrifice pulling power. 4.55 will pull better but the RPM will be higher costing you more fuel. Hope this give you some food for thought :D
Thanks for the feedback. I need to start looking at gears for that Spicer rear end and see if I can track some down.
But the 455 will be still better in mpg than what he has now.. our frtliner had a 13 speed and 321 in the rears.. got almost 9 mpg that was a 94..
Cant wait to see more of this truck been anting to build one for a long time
Dude I hope you make more videos on this, there’s not very many people doing videos on medium/ heavy duty toy haulers
I would just use 650 = good, 675 = careful and 700 = limit for the EGT.
I'd add a temp gauge for the transmission and a good cooler if it doesn't have it. I imagine the Jet boat isn't that heavy though, so it should be ok.
Drove my 2001 international 4900 with a dt466e from middle of iowa to northern illinois. I could barely get to 55. Total dog. It was kinda quick to like 30 so it was good city driving.
That’s pretty Damb impressive to be honest
Pyrometer is supposed to be in the exhaust pipe, after the tubo, AFTER the turbo, not in an exhaust manifold before the turbo.
Correct, it should be in the down pipe just south of the turbo. Not just sniffing one side of the exauast.
Wrong
COMING OUT OF THE HEAD AND BEFORE TURBO THE TEMPERATURE SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 1100 DEGREES!
IF IT PERSISTS IN 1200/1300 DEGREES DROP ONE GEAR ON THE TRANSMISSION AND REDUCE ENGINE LOAD!!
HARD LUGGING AN ENGINE BREAKS STUFF!
AN ENGINE THAT SOUNDS HAPPY IS THE ONE THAT LASTS!!
Shipboard engines do every cylinder usually while still in the head, before, and after the turbo. Critical is the hot cylinder. Before and after turbo gives a relative of turbo performance, need for cleaning, and stack fires. Have fun
WRONG. EGT is most accurate pre turbo
We've had a few internationals like that.. the last one was a dt466e inline diesel... most gutless diesel engine ive ever experienced so you definitely got the better engine with the 7.3.. We put a brand new transmission in it and a week later it showed us what the rods look like.
If you need a rebuilt 545 with 70 miles on it let me know
drove many tow trucks with that set up, but manual trans...INTERNATIONAL purposely sets them low to avoid liabilities.
but yes, they got plenty left when you bump the tune.
That makes sense. I know the dealerships didn’t want to change the tunes for people either so this company just ended up making their own tuner.
@@Motiv8Labs the trans issues can be something as simple as a low stall converter getting "freaked out" by the up rated power output compared to the fairly tame stock levels. a ten second acceleration boost is probably a bit spicy for a stock transmission, and I'd be using that only when you need to merge quickly. other wise keep it as a reserve and drive it a bit more conservatively. or, get a tranny shop to make sure the bands and steels aren't overly cooked from too much high load and crawling on uneven ground in near stall conditions.
15,000 hours is about 900,000 miles.
The 120vac is what controls thr fuel injectors.
EGT probe goes after turbo on dual manifold usually, also 1400° is after turbo.
The thermocouple on the 7.3L is always installed pre-turbo, usually in the driver's side manifold. Long standing EGT limits are exactly what he stayed... 1200 is fine with 1250 sustained for longer period, and 1300 for short bursts.
If the thermocouple were installed post turbo and then allowed to reach 1400, the EGTs at the exhaust ports would be 1600+ and would burn the exhaust valves as well as the exhaust turbine. These engines cannot handle high EGTs for long periods of time.
@@BillCohron no it's not "always" installed pre turbo. Many are post turbo. And yes those limits are pre turbo temps.
If temp probe is after turbo it's reading 300 higher then at manifold so 1400 after is 1100 manifold
We have a retired school bus with the same engine/trans combo. Had the computer tuned.... that thing is snappy and will cruise at 80 all day long. Doesn't even notice a hill.
For a bit of extra power and mpg a good exhaust is a must, as free flowing as your ears can stand. Turbo's hate backpressure. Clean oil is critical. The DT444E/7.3PS hates dirt and sludge. Changed more than one set of injectors due to owners neglecting oil changes. With that sort of idle time I'd seriously consider yanking the oil pan for a good cleaning.
Thanks for the feedback!
Hell, why not see if you can get it to cruise at 90 mph? You're wasting valuable time at 80 mph.
I agree with some of the comments about the manual swap. With a good clutch. The eaton/spicer that came in these trucks should be a pretty straight forward swap.. lots of these trucks in the junk yards for big trucks.. or parked up in fields not being used.
That's a good idea, if I can find all of the parts like the clutch pedal assembly etc. from a donor truck/junk yard.
That Allison is hard to blow up. Thats awesome tho. Love the truck
Personally it just needs a powertrain revamp!
bigger turbo, bigger injectors, a inline fuel pump finally a better transmission luckily most of these can be salvaged from other diesel big rigs, school busses esc at a scrap yard.
Thanks! That's what I started looking into, we'll see how it goes.
You can cut that 0-60 time in half by playing this video at 2x speed...:)
That's quite a good looking shop you have their.
You really need a Banks tuner and a overdrive transmission
I would be worried if your exhaust temps are that high empty,what would they be under a load.
banks is weak
Where did you get the tunner ? I have a international truck that needs help also
gopowerhungry.com this is their Orion Reflash System for Navistar systems. I’m not vouching for them yet since I’ve only messed with it a few days. Seems be working ok though.
Yes , I too have a truck and im interested in said tuner.
The tuner is from Power Hungry Performance.
@@BillCohron thanks
@@Motiv8Labs thankss
Great content. Thank you for posting it. Just wanted to let you know you might want to lower the rear ratios to lower your rpm on that motor.
Thanks looking into rear gears to see if I can find any for that Spicer rear end.
@@Motiv8Labs Great idea. Just looking out 😁👍. Continue bringing great content.
I sent a DM to your insta of my international build. Currently the biggest thing limiting you is the AT545 transmission you have. But the motor's themselves have a good aftermarket thanks to the 7.3PS and most issues or things to watch out for are well documented. There are a few oddities on these that don't translate well from the fords. Such as the downpipes, I had to fabricate my own while upgrading the turbo. But for the most part it's straight forward.
The 7.3 started out as a tug boat engine before being used in road vehicles.
Makes sense with how many hours they seem to get out of these things.
Sorry to disappoint ya but the 7.3 PS was designed (under contract) for Ford and adapted for road trucks (DT466E) and later on adapted by Mercury as a marine power plant. The only (that I know of) diesel designed by IH for marine use was the Cursader 9.0L.
With that being said IH did provide several gas engines for marine use.
You my be thinking of the Cummins BT series, they put that thing in EVERYTHING prior to Dodge making their deal.
@@pumpdump4476 a 466 is a six cylinder in line engine, a 444 is the 7.3 either idi or open chamber (444e). Have fun
I know in the f series trucks that 23.4 is the max that the manifold pressure sensor understands. It sets a code for excessive manifold pressure when you hit that. With a mechanical gauge some report actual boost as much as 30psi.
What a great video.
80 is posted in Dallas area's so cops don't bother you in a (Car) up to the 90's mph.
In the Dallas area that truck would have been thrown in the scrap yards and you saved some good American steel to live on the road agin.
I definitely did subscribe
If you can find one the International Harvester TravelAll 1961/69 will get clicks and views and a Cummins Diesel just makes them nice like a old Mercedes wagon, ya know it's unique but not down right goofy like a trucktor.
More videos with this truck please. Had a 2000 with a 19' roll back tow truck with a dt466 and the thing was a tank had a 110km/h limiter like yours whuch was fine for pur two lane roads but not for highway speeds. People used to get a kick put of watching me wheel the thing into figure 8s and big sloppy drifts through the parking lots in the winter time..
My brother put stiffer governor springs in a 408 and then it started blowing turbo boots so he turned the fuel down to avoid changing the turbo. We were pretty sure someone turned the fuel up before we got it. There is always variables and problems you dont know about until it happens. The problem we had with the 408 and 6 speed manual was when after shifting you had a couple hundred rpm to gain to be in power. Either figure out if it was fueling or turbo incapable of sufficient boost, the choice was to increase the governor so it could get above 3k under acceleration.
That's awesome. I wouldn't mind if this one had a manual, wouldn't have to worry about that auto blowing apart.
Awesome vid bro, had to subscribe right away glad if you can do some upgrades to the transmission
I would have sent it at the 300 horsepower setting, the engine came rated for that so it’s safe, If you wanted to do injectors, and turbo, then I’d be more worried about it. That being said I admire your willpower, I have scattered my fair share of motors
Seems like the engine might handle it, the trans will not.
What is the tuner information, i would like to look into it for my truck.
gopowerhungry.com this is their Orion Reflash System for Navistar systems. I’m not vouching for them yet since I’ve only messed with it a few days. Seems be working ok though.
Any information on the tuner you used would be appreciated.
@@Motiv8Labs thank you
Be careful with the AT545 transmssion, if that's what it's got. 230HP is the design limit for the transmission. it LIKES to spin fast (2000 rpm is the minimum input shaft speed for the pump to generate full pressure), but be aware that with no lockup converter, when you're pulling a load you HAVE to keep an eye on the transmssion temp, as the converter will generating LOTS of heat.
I have one in my motorhome behind a cummins 12 valve, and I end up driving it by the temp gauge.
I have had 2 of those LPXs they are great little trucks. Back in the day it was hard to find a tune back in the day and International/ Navistar was no help. You can change the ECM to a Ford power stroke to get a tune on it. Initially I would not worry about the Allison shifting they shift funky compared to what you are used to with a normal car or truck transmission. If it does take a dump put an Allison world transmission 1000 and up series to get more gears and an overdrive. or manual it. The rears gears are also low and it is hard to find a more highway ratio for them. and you should be able to go to a junk yard to find the factory A/C components to put A/C in it the cabs are all the same in all the S series or 4700 to 8100 series. Some of them also had air ride rear suspension. Most of those LPX series trucks were made for Trugreen a nation wide lawn spray co. They did produce others some with automatic and manual transmissions for other applications But all the LPXs had 7.3 power. The also made a limited amount of crew cabs which are rare. I am looking to find another one myself for a little toter. 22.5 low profile tires will help some what with the low gear deal and still give the low profile look. Good luck have fun with her.
Thanks for the all the feedback. That's exactly what this was, a Trugreen truck. Still has one of the Trugreen stickers in the cab. I'll look into trying to find some cheapo 22.5 wheels and tires. The rear end says Spicer 3.54 on the label, so I was curious if they made anything less for a gear ratio on those.
I remember being assigned this truck I’ll climb up it in the morning dread the day. We were not allowed to touch the governor at all
If you can find parts or a donor to get the most out of a little 7.3 in those manual swap is best, the other allisons with lockup converter will help yes, but will still be a power suck compared to a manual.
Those pre-emissions diesels could be pretty reliable. Modern ones though, well.....
yessss go diesel on the boats!!
Definitely looking into it more.
You need to open the governor all the way and adjust the fuel air mixture to a 50/50 mix
65 MPH on a 75 MPH highway isn't bad people dont care they just go around you. Just stay in the right lane. I went around Grandpa doing 55 MPH I was doing 70 in a big rig on I-80 Nebraska near Grand Island just went around him no issues I didn't care. It's actually safer at slower speeds with big trucks because trying to stop is the hardest part of driving a commercial vehicle.
Riffraff has a turbo wheel upgrade that is cheap and easy to swap out that guys with the 7.3 love ❤️. More boost and run cooler
For the EGT gauge to be accurate, the sensor needs to be before the turbo, close to the exhaust port. Not sure if it is or not. It can read low.
I mean doing 65 in that is plenty. Especially pulling a trailer. I dont go over that pulling my camper. It was governed there with the gearing it has to keep the engine in its happy spot
That international truck sounds more like a Ford 7.3 powerstroke f-250 sounds awesome turbo whistle 😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
So I have a 1995 School bus with the same exact setup as your rig. Same engine and chassis. I did the upgrade you did to 210HP from 175HP, and my AT545 transmission slipped almost instantly. It wouldn't pick up gear after 2nd and I had to wait for it to cool down for it to work again. It's too much HP and will slip past. The AT545 only can handle 400lbs of torque, and 210HP will blast right through that and cause it to slip. Until I upgrade my transmission to AT1000 6 speed, I'm stuck at 175HP. I'd like to see a video if you upgrading the transmission on a 6 port J1708. that would be a feat.
Thanks for the feedback! Good to hear from someone with a school bus setup. I started reading some of the schoolie message boards about people doing transmission swaps. That AT1000 sounds like it would be great if a standalone transmission controller would work.
Make sure you regularly drain the air tank(s) if it has air brakes.
It’s OK if you blow the transmission,Now u can switch it over to manual great video
Thanks for the feedback!
My theory as an engineer for why the throttle didn't work is how binary numbers are stored. And that the actual max is 127, because it starts at 0. To get 128 you'd have to add a binary place. So that likely caused an overflow either when the ECM was being programmed or in the ECM itself.
Anyway, no manual swap it!
14:21 Chart reminds me of the color coded logs from Back to the Future 3
don't know if you mentioned it in the few places I skipped by, but honestly along with that final tune, you just need to some bigger 19.5 or 22.5 wheels and tires. Those little 17.5 wheels are not helping your speed and gearing. Some taller rubber will get your cruising RPM down and hopefully increase fuel economy and will technically be easier to do versus a rear end rebuild. Facebook marketplace will always have some old 22.5 Alcoa's up for ale and sometimes with good rubber too for cheap.
I recommend replacing the Allison AT545 Transmission with an MT643 it's a much better trans and it has lockup
Thanks for the feedback I'll look into that transmission.
I second this. It’s nearly a bolt in swap, just need to remove the bellhousing adapter, have the driveshaft shortened, and possibly redo the cooler lines. That or find a donor truck with a manual
Replace all the filters and flush all the fluids with heavy duty diesel fluids.
@billwhitis9997 -
1) The 7.3L engine is perfectly capable of handling 3000+ RPM just fine. Of course it's not ideal and the fuel economy will absolutely tank, but the engine is perfectly capable of handling it. Yes, 2100 RPM would be considerably more ideal, but it's not going to happen with the current transmission.
2) Most of these trucks are geared specifically for 55 - 65 MPH. This specific truck has a 3.54 gear with Lo-Pro tires that are 621 Rev/Mile. At best, this would yield 2383 RPM at 65 MPH, but that doesn't take into account that the converter does not lock so the RPM will actually be higher. 3.54 is already a pretty tall gear, and the chassis is not really set up to go with the taller 22.5 tires, so that leaves just changing the transmission to something with an Overdrive gear. With a 0.61 6th gear and lockup converter, the later Allisons would actually to bring the RPM down to 1548 at 65 MPH, which is actually going to be a bit low, so I'd probably just keep it in 5th which would yield 1786 RPM at 65. The ideal setup would be to switch to a 6 speed Allison and regear to a 4.30 or 4.56 gear.
3) Under load, the turbo actually spools harder and the EGTs really shouldn't be much of an issue. He'd likely not see much difference loaded or unloaded. Of course, he can always back down 1 level and see if that helps an EGT concerns.
Naw we got you beat with our schoolie, she only good for 55 mph and that’s on a good day with no hills. 0-60 in about a minute 😮 and we were in Texas also at some point but back in MD now 😢😂
I guess I can't complain, I can't imagine if this thing was a full sized bus!
The first parameter in Parameter Block 79 enables, or disables speed limiter. The last parameter defines the speed limit, up to 127 MPH, if first parameter is set to Enabled. You may need to check that.
Thanks it sounds like you're familiar with this ole International computer!
i watched the part where you timed it... i was just doing that in my international 4300 today... yours is faster !
I feel the pain, it was so bad before, especially trying to pull a trailer and get on the highway.
Id be crazy to cram an 8v71t in it
You might have the MT643 transmission. It is good for 250 hp and has lockup on the top two gears. Looks like it from the underneath camera you had going. If it is the 545 you might want to swap for the 643. They are cheap and very robust.
It's got AT545 on there which is about the worst transmission to have from what everyone is saying. I'll look into the MT643 though.
@Motiv8Labs they are both four-speed direct and the 643 will bolt up but be sure to get one off an application with the same RPM range or you have to change the shift solenoids. The 545 is fine for Texas though. Just don't hammer on it accelerating when you have a load on it. it's a decent medium duty transmission and for what you're doing it'll be fine even at 250 horse if you don't abuse it.
55 is the speed limit when towing. FEDERALLY 😂
You can easily get 28.5-29psi of boost on factory components. I have been involved in the building of hundreds of these engines using OEM components.
That's good to hear, I was curious what boost I should be worried at. Thanks for the feedback!
I drive a 40 year old army truck as a daily driver and it has a top speed of 45 mph. My army truck has 140 horsepower and it gets by just fine. Who cares if you’re not going the speed limit the minimum speed is 40 mph on the freeway. These trucks are old and don’t have the power that new ones do because they needed to be reliable and new trucks are designed to go faster and break down more often. I wouldn’t worry about it. And careful to not overrev the engine. 2500 rpm is a little bit high I’d keep it under 2000 rpm. These cranks were designed for high rpm’s for a long period of time. Whenever you tune anything it leads to a domino effect. It’s best to leave it stock. Leave it the way it came from the factory.
There's probably a good reason why that truck tops out at 65 mph. Everybody wants to push the envelope and they wind up with a whole new set of problems, and sometimes failures.
@@dw7094 exactly. Older trucks were designed to go 55 mph and the more power you push out of an engine, the more heat the engine creates and that is the cause of tons of failures not to mention the transmission that is now being stressed.
these things don’t care, you’ll just waste less fuel
Funny 4 years on mine and it's a mild build 160/0s and a KC turbo. There are also plently of people on the forums running 400-500hp 7.3s in their light duties grossing 30k without issues.
These international trucks were made to run at the rev limit which was 2500/2600 non OD manual transmissions which would get them to the 55mph gear bound usually happens at 65. Two gentlemen I know still have their 4900s with DT446s they bough from the factory in 91 for their company. They are also still bumping the rev limiter towing and hauling and they've never had a rebuild or any signs of needing a rebuild.
His case is just a little extra detrimental due to the AT545 which is a non lockup which made sense for school busses starting and stopping. People think that diesels like low RPM and end up lugging the motors causing EGTs to raise making it harder on the engine.
But they don't question the tow/haul buttons or on the same light duty 7.3s that is a OD off/ON for use while towing heavy in the hills. The tow hauls drops down a gear to keep the RPMs up where the turbo is lit, The fan running faster pulling air through the radiator, and the water pump moving coolant quicker.
If you have a manual stock truck with a load on a hill you can psychically watch this with an EGT gauge. Lugging the motor at those lower RPMs on a pull you can watch the EGTs start creeping up and it only gets worse with the longer of a pull will be over 1250 and that's on a stock truck.. Then if you swap to a lower gear and raise RPM you can watch it drop.
Which 1250 isn't a bad thing in short intervals It's when you heat soak a motor that's when the aluminum pistons start melting. Which guess what That slow speed low RPM you are totting is the ideal situation for heat soak.
some of those trucks use tiers not rated to go above 65 so that isn't always advised
128 is the max 1 byte integer limit, 127 or 126 would probably work fine. Or maybe its a triple digit thing
Put a set of stacks on 5 inch and a good turbo she will run great
Php tuner will transform your truck
Opinions are like belly buttons. Having said that. I owned my 7.3 Ford for 21 years. I put the truck on a dyno with stock turbo and injectors at BD performance. I got 315hp and 748trq. I used the truck to haul tractors and farm equipment with it regularly and a 17k load with my trailer with a car in it. I used TS performance chip and ATS for the stage 4 transmission. The trans went 19 years without a hiccup.
Ran a truck like that and the trans felt slippy from new. It got worse but never failed. I climbed Allegheny mountains every day with it for years. Run that trans and converter until she fails. If that truck drove around underpowered for all its life doing lawn care and idling most its life… you should have plenty of life left in the trans.
If the speed limiter is an 8bit signed integer (odd that it'd be signed, but totally possible), then the max value is actually 127. Forcing it to 128 would make it go to negatives and turn the throttle off because you are always over the max speed limit. If you want, try 127. If that fixes it, then that's the issue.
That was kind of like the truck chassis our fire engine had when I was a firefighter, the speed governor was limited to 62 mph, and you actually wouldn't want to go much faster than that carrying two thousand gallons of water! The brakes could very easily overheat and fail.
Makes sense! Sounds like yall were slinging around 16k+ pounds of water back on that truck, so that's a lot of weight for sure.
Take an old Ford 7.4 liter turbo diesel engine and transmission and put it in that truck and you will be cruising at 85 miles per hour at an idle! I use to drive a few box trucks back in the 1990's with that type of engine. When the truck was empty, it would do burnouts from a dead stop with hardly pushing the accelerator! The truck was way over powered, but it had a 26 foot box and we used to pull a 24 foot trailer containing all sorts of heavy stuff. There definitely was no limiter on it.
Since you have a THIMBLE full of truck know how . Ya want better high way ground speed and NOT scream the motor ya need to change rear end gears . With truck rear end ration . and tire size tells yqa how fast your going to beat the pavement . Your pyro probe should have been installeed AFTER the turbo NOT before because if the probe BURNS OFF what is left will go thru the turbo and munch the turbo. With your truck i would r3ecomend a 3.90 gear in the back. and maybe ya can go to a 3.78 .
As a retired trucker with 46 yrs over the road its beyond me why any sane person would want to travel faster than 65 mph in one of those farmyard Ferrari's.
Oh be quiet boomer.
What will be the biggest downside of the programming is that all the numbers you got really mean nothing, until you hook up a load to it then test it, what some people do is put the horsepower on medium or high, but when they run it on a load it doesn't take long before it heats up, and you have to back out of it, especially pulling hills or mountain areas, that Pyro will be your best friend .
Makes sense. I'm getting used to driving by way of watching. It's different way of thinking for sure.
A question. Are you building a hauler, or a large pickup? Set your sights, but don't try for both. Unless you have lots of cash. The carnage will be spectacular.😱😎
Best wishes from ~2,000 miles North.
Mainly just a decent truck to haul our boats and cars and junk around the area. Nothing too fancy for us!
@@Motiv8Labs Not fancy. Sustained power desired? Good torque, achievable RPM range, longevity.
The devil is in the details.
Best wishes.
When I was a kid I had a Suzuki TS90. It would only go 65mph.
I had to look that up. Cool looking bike!
@@Motiv8Labs gutless trail bike
Hey there, getting rid of that flat tube behind thé air filter could do Wonders to your tune...good luck
I'll have to look into that thanks!