These are the best safes ever. Simply buy at least 10 of them and put them all over the house. Then put your valuables under a couch cushion. The thieves will be so dazzled by the safes they won't even bother looking elsewhere for loot!;)
@@Operational117 I know of someone who carried millions in a public bus in an ordinary backpack. Best part is he forgot the bag at a hotel midway and jumped out of moving bus after it had gone a few kilometres. One of the waiter kept the bag safe with him. Probably he didn't check the content else he would have disappeared with his family right then and there.
I picked up a safe like this at a garage sale and it's so bad you can just hit the top of the safe and turn the knob to open it. ( hitting the top makes the solenoid move out of the way so the locking bolt can be moved) the backup key was also a joke. And there was a code reset button inside the safe that with a little work you could reset the code from the outside without even knowing the original code. Better off using a safe like this as a dummy safe. Great video people should be aware of what they are buying and you help them with that.
I have also opened this exact model in the past using the tap technic. The battery went flat and you can only replace it from the inside. A couple of strong taps and it came straight lose.
That's so funny. Even if you knew the combination to this foolish thing, it would be quicker to get into it by picking the lock than by bothering with tapping in the numbers.
asdfkoas I couldn't get that to work on this one... and I tried using a heavy dead blow hammer. It's probably because it is the larger 250lbs version. But along these lines, there's a really funny video out there somewhere where a guy opens a safe like this by whacking it on top with a potato! Its hilarious... and a little sad.
@@lockpickinglawyer Seriously?! I thought that this was a cheap hotel safe. A 250lb 48" high safe with this lock?! Recommendation: Include a long shot or photo of the entire safe in these videos.
I bought one of these for $20 and replaced the tubular lock with a nice Medeco cam lock and have it bolted down. For what I keep in it I think it was a great buy!
I was able to open one of these safes by bouncing it on a bed and turning the knob when the safe reached zero gravity at the top of the bounce. Love the idea of putting bricks and newspapers inside these safes and using them as lures for thieves to focus on while your real valuables are hidden elsewhere.
If you can bounce the safe on a bed, you haven't done your due dilligence anyway and the potential thief could simply carry it away to manipulate at their own convenience.
Massively overstated!!!! If you have this special tool then you can get into the safe- true! But most people don't have this special tool, so the safe is a very good safe as far as most people are concerned. If someone needs to keep out not just opportunistic thieves but ones who will come prepared with this special tool then obviously a more expensive safe should be bought, or they could remove the lever that the key operates and make sure they record the PIN somewhere and keep the batteries good.
If you use a piece of scrap metal to cover the reset inside the door, cover inside the door where the LEDs are to prevent the coat hanger trick and press JB weld into the bypass lock keyway and use good construction adhesive under the plastic cover to prevent the cover from coming off. Provided you will then have to make sure your battery doesn't go dead because if it does you're screwed
Penny Wagner then 1 year down the line and either you forget to replace the batteries or the pad fails
5 ปีที่แล้ว +3
I'm a hotelier in the UK. All of my bedrooms have one of these safes. The locks keep failing and the keys stop working. A hammer and two minutes will open the safe but will make a lot of noise. I'm replacing all the original locks with a hasp and shackle. Guests can fit a padlock of their choice.
@ It's so easy to get bendable wire around the hinge side and press the code reset button. I actually think it would be more secure to disconnect the electronics power supply and use the backup key only. If the locks were not so insecure or often keyed alike....
4 ปีที่แล้ว
@@bobdole4694 THANKYOU! The backup locks tend to fail. I should have put oil in them when they were new.
I have safes like this in several locations through the house, so the problem is to find one holding anything valuable. Good idea to fix a proximity alarm to them as well.
I use a hardened chain around it held on the sides with grade 5 bolts fender washers. Then use a abus 10 padlock.the metal on the box is stout,fix the chain around it,have it bolted down and its much tougher.
There are so many ways to open this without the key or combination, it simply defies belief. 1. As demonstrated above. 2. If batteries charged, push long piece of metal (coat hanger) through rear/bottom holes and hit reset switch. Then reset your new code and open. 3. If not secured down, or mounted on carpet or bouncy surface, simply strike the safe over door (shock the weighted solenoid) repeatedly while 'jerk' rotating the handle, it opens easily within a few good whacks. 4. On the larger fire and gun safe variants, that have plastic panels over the lock face, simply place a large neodymium magnet in a sock or similar slippery cloth and drag over the door face to activate (withdraw) the solenoid.
Make your owl electro magnet with some iron bar telephone wire or same wire in blue cat 5 put about 50 turns of the still insulated and single strand around the bar and apply 12v. Doesnt need ro be neat but bunched together for propper inductance...... Food for thought. Love your videos.
Is there a lock mechanism you could recommend that would replace the vulnerable tube lock it comes with? It would be nice to be able to switch it out and keep the safe.
As mentioned in one of the comments above, the Medeco cam lock works very well as a keyed replacement and it's relatively inexpensive. And I lined mine with some fire retardant foam pads, and place the valuables inside a fire safe bag.
I have found this safe works very well. In order to prevent thieves stealing my valuables I've found it best to place said valuables on a nice sturdy table. Upon removing the valuables, the thief finds a spring plate has just popped up and has let go of a rope. The impact from a Harbour Freight safe seems to cause 100% of thieves to drop the lot as well as take a nap while their face pisses blood. 10/10, would bludgeon again.
You can also use a flat head screwdriver and jam it in at the top of the protruding keypad assembly, yank down and ripped the entire keypad off. Then you just stick your finger in the little hole that the turn knob goes into and push down on the locking lever and then open the safe. The whole process from start to finish takes about 12 seconds.
This also goes for any of the union safes with that particular style keypad. They all have the exact same locking mechanisms. And I can defeat every single one of them, and under 20 seconds.
Good vid but to be fair, you can’t say it offers “no level of security”. I mean, even putting your valuables in a shoe box offers some level of security.
I lose my valuables, that is the best way I have found to secure them. If I can't find them than surely a robber won't! Coincidently, it is also the cheapest and only method I can afford. XD
I get what you mean, but if they are that prepared then they would probably show up with a grinder and make quick work of the sheet metal. The thieves where I live are dumb and crude. They smash in car windows and grab things, they are quick and dirty. My prediction is that just seeing a metal box bolted to the wall is probably enough to deter most thieves from wasting time on it.
Just add a heavy duty padlock hasp to it. Or if you want to get technical, add a remote controlled solenoid lock inside the safe that can only be accessed from inside the safe.
What would be cool is if you could show us how to make this safe stronger so anyone can't get in them because I know you can get anyone with magnets with banging on the top and with the tool you showed.
DOH! The SnapSafe 'security locker' I was planning to get has this same bogus lock setup, just mounted on a wedge and re-branded. I appreciate the knowledge LPL. Thanks for yet another wake up call.
The lock on mine is super-secure. One of the pins is just flopping around with no spring tension and the lock is bound up. Luckily, the code still works so I could replace the whole cam lock without breaking in.
I do appreciate your videos and I know it's easy to open with a lock tool but again I would like to see it picked by hand and you talk through it what to do and not to do etc etc Keep up the good work I do enjoy them.
richardwales LOL. A "safe" with a wafer lock. I don't know what to say about that. It's a little sad because many people (who don't spend as much time on TH-cam as us) don't know what a joke they are, and rely on these to safeguard valuables.
Glad to know both that my safe is insecure, and that I can get in without having to schedule with a locksmith. I won't trust important things in the safe anymore, I'll get a better one.
Wow, now that's one handy little piece of info! Thank you for the video. I've been considering getting one of these but now you have me pumping the brakes. You mention replacing the cam lock with an Abloy lock.... I'm very handy but know nothing about locks. Can you offer a Abloy replacement lock part number as a suggestion? Also, where do you get one and would it be difficult to replace for someone who has very little knowledge about locks? Thanks again.
Glad you liked it. Sorry, but I don't know the part number. What you would need to do is to open the door and measure the depth of the lock. Most cam locks of the same depth will work.
Have to design a way to lock the panel or put a safety catch to unfasten the panel, or better yet get rid of the key punch lock and back up, replace the locking mechanism with high security lock.
Everyone needs two safes. One left in the master bedroom closet with a few papers in it for the robbers to find, and one fire safe to put in the last place anyone would look. Find that place, and then put a box of dirty laundry over the top of the safe or a box of old books, or etc etc. Something that suits the out of the way place. Works more often than not. A robber will not turn over a pantry, a utility room press, the back of a kitchen cupboard filled with pots and pans. It's too easy.
You don't even have to pick it, just hit the top of the box with your hand and the magnetic lock will retract and the handle can turn freely. There is a lot of videos about this technique and I tried it on my safe, it worked.
i have opened one of these using only a screwdriver, the barrel is not indexed and can simply be rotated with a screwdriver in the notch at the top, the combination had been forgotten, and i had been asked to cut it open, so had nothing to loose and was expecting a fight, there was very little resistance to it turning......
You can also bang on the top, even if it's bolted to a concrete wall. Sure, you have to bang it harder than if it's freestanding, but you can open it. I know because I lost the key, forgot the combination, the battery was dead, and didn't want to wait for the $30 tool. I didn't know I could use the tool to make a new key, so maybe I'll order the tool anyway. The only purpose of the safe, btw, is to make people feel secure. I have two of these safes, 24 hour security, in a small gated community. If they get past the gate and guards, I don't think a safe (almost always with absolutely anything in them) is going to stop a determined thief.
Have you tried picking the Harbor Freight padlocks? I see you have a video where a Chinese lock had plastic inside that you were able to crack. I was wondering if the HF locks were to same? You can buy 3 in a package for $5.00 on sale. BTW, I really enjoy watching your videos, good stuff.
+vegasfordguy Thanks for watching -- it's always nice to hear from someone who enjoys my videos. I have not tried the 3 pack laminated HF locks. I have picked on their American 700 clone and their “puck” hidden shackle lock. Both have 6 pin brass cores with American Lock keyways. They are both made to VERY poor tolerances and are relatively easy to open. I suggest heavy tension. The binding orders on the locks I have are not at all subtle.
This is a 250 lb 48" high safe!! That's NUTS! I assumed that this was a cheap hotel safe. Recommendation: Include a long shot or photo of the entire safe in these videos. (The weight and size are in LPL's comments below.)
Well what do you know. This was exactly what I was looking for. I was considering buying one of these in the future, but I'm glad I looked up on how easy they could be picked. Thanks.
Hi, I made the mistake of putting keys in safe when I was cleaning and the battery went dead. I ordered the tools you recommended. I am an older lady and you made it look so simple. Can you give me a few more tips to get it open please. Do you wiggle it only sideways or are you supposed to move it up and down also. I saw the spaced part at the top when you started, then I saw it jump to the left. Please help me open the safe. Thank you.
Without the tube lock picking tool, I push the electronic combination reset button by putting a rod through the security hole in the back wall of the safe. Then I input the factory reset code ,"159", and the safe unlocks without a fancy tube lock picking tool. But, I would rather have the tube lock picking tool instead.
You for got to mention that with a simple hand held grinder you can cut into a so called real safe as well. So all commercial safes are simply a deterrent.
I just opened one just like that for a guy at work, bop the top and its open, he lost his key, and ran batteries dead. But if you add a spring to hold the selinoid unlocking plate up better, its harder to bop into it. But the lock is still its weekest link.
Another option is to hide it very well. For example, you have to crawl under my house where there's only 16" of vertical clearance (not enough room to use a regular shovel). Dig down about 30" where you will hit 11½" thick pad of cured concrete I poured over the top of this safe. You will have to chip through that concret, then get your fancy $30 tool to easily pick the safe. Congratulations, you now have access to my expired credit card I keep in the safe. As far as me not knowing you were in the safe...you will need to pour concrete, let it cure, return to place the dirt back, remove all evidence of chipped out concrete...and do this all quietly without alerting the family dog to your presence. Good Luck!
As they say, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. If you skimp on even one part of your lock, the entire thing is essentially worthless as soon as that cut cost is discovered
i'm not familiar with the harbor freight version , but these are generic made-in-china "safes" They have a reset button on the hindge side of the door. And that button is accesable through the mounting holes at the bottom. I have only once failed to open these in under a minute. And that time the customer had tried to get in by forcing the lock , after the batteries died.
I remember when kryptonite first came out with the u-bolt bike locks we used to go around school and pick them with Bic pens. We would unlock the bikes and switch locks on guys’ bikes. Hilarious!
Why can't other TH-camrs just get to the point like the LPL does? Others get too caught up in unrelenting exposition and needless channel promotion. Bravo, LPL, your concise videos are only surpassed by your lock picking skills.
My dad gave me one of these a long time ago. Idk if they downgraded or upgraded them but my core is a lot better... Or at least I can't pick it, not that that is saying much.
Believe it or not, I found one of those with a simple Wafer lock on it...?? Did you sanded those little bumps down on the pick "wires"? I sanded mine down so the pick could slide into the lock easier. Don't know if I should have done that, but I can always use the fingers from one of the other picks anyway. I'd be interested hearing your opinion?
+LDU2U Nothing surprises me about the security products made in China… except maybe the fact that they all don’t have the cheap(er) wafer locks. As for modifying the impressioning tool, I’ve considered doing exactly that because these tools are really spotty about fitting in locks. I have two brands of impressioning tools, with three sizes in each brand, and it’s not unusual to find a lock in which the fit is really close, but none of my tools quite get in the lock. Probably the only reasons I didn’t modify my tools are (i) I don’t pick many tubular locks anymore, and (ii) I mostly SPP these locks now. As a hobbyist, I pick for the enjoyment and challenge. It’s not very fun or challenging to open locks with impressioning tools. I enjoy SPPing more and the method works on a much wider variety of locks (many of which the impressioning tools can’t open). All of that said, how is your modified tool working? I might follow your lead.
I can't really say if it worked any better, certainly not any worse anyway, makes it the same as the Southord tubular pick. The reason I sanded those bumps out because it sometimes sort of 'jumps' into the lock while inserting, and I am not sure when it does 'jump' into the lock how close the pick is in relation to the pins? I have to admit I'm not very good at tubular locks though. SPP'ng is OK, but being a hobbyist myself, I don't particularly like SPP'ng a tubular with only one pins rotation of the core. In the real world one would need to SPP it again twice, or maybe even three times before the locking latch mechanism would move past the point whereby the lock can actually get opened to gain access. This is the only reason I continue using a tubular pick, you can keep rotating the core until the safe or some other container actually opens to gain access. Just my personal thing you understand. A lock for me has to be opened to gain me access, and usually you have to pick it again, or again before the container is actually opened? I see people SPP'ng tubular locks on YT, but they only turn the core one pin position and say it's open, but in reality it would usually not be opened by just rotating of the core to one pins position, they would have to re-pick it again once or twice, or even more until the lock latching mechanism actually opens the safe or whatever, and then the reverse procedure to re-lock it. I have this thing about lock picking as if I was out in the field...LOL. I really enjoy your videos presentations, and you clearly explain things, they are a pleasure to watch LPL ;-)
+LDU2U You make a good point... but once you start on locks that have varying spring tension and/or varying length driver pins (like the ACE II), the impressioning tool is of limited use. As for moving the core multiple positions -- check out my video #91.
Stupid me, I forgot I watched that video...DOH! Of course, that's all one has to do after SPP'ng. Just delete my ramblings before...LOL. I have a couple of those SPP'ng picks, I'll have a go at that. Thanks.
I have so the exact same Safe sitting here - in Germany, without Harbor Freight in reach, and I'm waiting to see the pickset arrive - because I genuinely lost the combination. There's nothing In there, I'd really need - but to have a save is better as to have none.
I would know even before you tried to get into it because I put a Post It Note on the front, stating “If you plan to pick this lock, please let me know.”
Can you completely ruin the mechanical override with super glue or something and just rely on the keycode pad to open it? Would that make it a lot better?
Wow, if I was a criminal, I’ll just watch all your videos and know how to easily break into anyone safe with little to no knowledge on how to do so thank you
Thanks. I'm not really that knowledgeable about safes, but its a matter of balancing cost and security. I can recommend absurdly tough safes, but at what cost?
My philosophy for securing something is only have one path in. Having an override makes the lock only as strong as its weakest link. A charging port is the way to go.
LPL, we have one of these Safes but the tubular lock does not have the center slot on the internal circular part of the lock. I bough an impression tool, but it has a pin on the interior to line up with the notch on the internal circular part of the lock. This means that the Impression tool does not go into the lock. How do you overcome this? It look somewhat like the lock on video 224. This also does not have the notch.
You don't even need the key if it's not bolted into the wall. Just take the safe, put a slight pressure on the knob as if turning it open and while you do that just drop the safe onto your bed from about a foot above your bed. When it bounces just right there is a moment where the lock disengages and it just opens...
@@KleinKaptein I have a very large safe. Weighs about 250-300 pounds. I got that tool the other day and was able to open it in a matter of seconds. Kinda scary how fast I was able to open it.
LPL you a master of your craft, your psa announcements genuine.. At the sake of sounding critical. Does it cross your mind that your videos have the potential to cause as much harm as good.
This is the funniest LPL video ever! The way he laughs at himself for indicating the safe belonged to the viewer. And the remark of welding a decent lock to it! Top drawer my good man!
Wow… thanks for the video. In fact I have no idea how the safe was locked without my changing the passwords. I need to unlock it now. Where can I get this tool from? 😅
![[1020] SentrySafe Opened With a Coat Hanger!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i7g-TvczpSw/mqdefault.jpg)
![[1045] Swiss Army Knife Bypass of Keypad Lock](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ANsipsS7IK8/mqdefault.jpg)
These are the best safes ever. Simply buy at least 10 of them and put them all over the house. Then put your valuables under a couch cushion. The thieves will be so dazzled by the safes they won't even bother looking elsewhere for loot!;)
Twisted World
Yep. A common saying: “The best hiding spot is in plain sight.”
Love your comment made laughed. Thanks 😊.
I think you've perhaps been playing too much Rust? 😁
The average crim is a dumb fuck.
@@Operational117 I know of someone who carried millions in a public bus in an ordinary backpack. Best part is he forgot the bag at a hotel midway and jumped out of moving bus after it had gone a few kilometres. One of the waiter kept the bag safe with him. Probably he didn't check the content else he would have disappeared with his family right then and there.
What would have been funnier is if you can buy the tool at Harbor Freight!
This is why I read the comments! 😂
Quang B you just won the internet with that one.
Stirl Dem agreed
Well you can buy both this safe and the tool on Aliexpress and DHGate.
I was actually waiting for him to say that's where he got the tool from
I picked up a safe like this at a garage sale and it's so bad you can just hit the top of the safe and turn the knob to open it. ( hitting the top makes the solenoid move out of the way so the locking bolt can be moved) the backup key was also a joke. And there was a code reset button inside the safe that with a little work you could reset the code from the outside without even knowing the original code. Better off using a safe like this as a dummy safe. Great video people should be aware of what they are buying and you help them with that.
That works well on the smaller ones. It's possible, but much harder on the 48" tall models like this one.
Haaaa. Knock knock open says me.
Any particular spot to hit it in? My electronics just went out and I dont have the key.
@@jhoughjr1 search for the video, how to open a safe with a pottato
I have also opened this exact model in the past using the tap technic. The battery went flat and you can only replace it from the inside. A couple of strong taps and it came straight lose.
Remember, Locks only keep the honest people out.
LOL. Is that Kwikset's company slogan?
LOL, just might be
It's what my old comp sci teacher told me about passwords.
@Adecodoo so you Run around your house interacting with your family, playing with your kids and all the time a gun is strapped to your body?
@Adecodoo sorry, i read over the "not" part of "when i'm not at home"
I just bang on the top with my fist while tensioning the knob to the right. Opens every time because it knocks the actuator open.
Let me guess: You bought it from Banggood? :D
Same here. Lost the key and batteries died. Out of frustration I hit it and it unlocked.
I wonder if LPL ever watches his old videos to see how far he has come in terms of quality and skill
To be fair, in today's era, he's cutting through "slash resistant" bags
Hii Fluttershy
@AhDollar well tbf there are only so many locks in the world, the majory of locks are very similar
the real glow up for lpl is his microphone and his confidence in delivery
Wow! I was just heading out the door to buy one of these safes. Thanks for this video!
:-)
LockPickingLawyer Seriously Thanks! I had a coupon for the safe and thought I had a good deal. I'm glad I saw your video!
It my
@@AllAmericanDreamChaser Just take the save and put that crazy bowley lock into it as a backup XD
and you just happen to be watching this on your phone?
"No one will ever know that I was in your safe."
*_laughs nervously_*
chests_ cops carry those tools
That's so funny. Even if you knew the combination to this foolish thing, it would be quicker to get into it by picking the lock than by bothering with tapping in the numbers.
LOL, could be.
Very alarming indeed. Timing a good whack into the top of the box with turning the knob usually also makes an easy entry.
asdfkoas I couldn't get that to work on this one... and I tried using a heavy dead blow hammer. It's probably because it is the larger 250lbs version. But along these lines, there's a really funny video out there somewhere where a guy opens a safe like this by whacking it on top with a potato! Its hilarious... and a little sad.
Seen it, done it, but it works with a zucchini as well ;)
+asdfkoas I'll try a vegetable next time. ;-)
@@lockpickinglawyer Seriously?! I thought that this was a cheap hotel safe. A 250lb 48" high safe with this lock?! Recommendation: Include a long shot or photo of the entire safe in these videos.
I bought one of these for $20 and replaced the tubular lock with a nice Medeco cam lock and have it bolted down. For what I keep in it I think it was a great buy!
Hi, I've lost the key for my safe, and the batteries have died. Can you please tell me the name of the tool.
I was able to open one of these safes by bouncing it on a bed and turning the knob when the safe reached zero gravity at the top of the bounce. Love the idea of putting bricks and newspapers inside these safes and using them as lures for thieves to focus on while your real valuables are hidden elsewhere.
If you can bounce the safe on a bed, you haven't done your due dilligence anyway and the potential thief could simply carry it away to manipulate at their own convenience.
Massively overstated!!!! If you have this special tool then you can get into the safe- true! But most people don't have this special tool, so the safe is a very good safe as far as most people are concerned. If someone needs to keep out not just opportunistic thieves but ones who will come prepared with this special tool then obviously a more expensive safe should be bought, or they could remove the lever that the key operates and make sure they record the PIN somewhere and keep the batteries good.
LPL has been doing PSA for a long time, unsung hero
If you use a piece of scrap metal to cover the reset inside the door, cover inside the door where the LEDs are to prevent the coat hanger trick and press JB weld into the bypass lock keyway and use good construction adhesive under the plastic cover to prevent the cover from coming off. Provided you will then have to make sure your battery doesn't go dead because if it does you're screwed
Just epoxy the lock tumbler, and don't forget your combo.
Penny Wagner then 1 year down the line and either you forget to replace the batteries or the pad fails
I'm a hotelier in the UK. All of my bedrooms have one of these safes. The locks keep failing and the keys stop working. A hammer and two minutes will open the safe but will make a lot of noise. I'm replacing all the original locks with a hasp and shackle. Guests can fit a padlock of their choice.
@camjamsdadwhy didn't you just buy a good safe ?
Nevermind...I finished reading your reply. Lol 😋
@ It's so easy to get bendable wire around the hinge side and press the code reset button. I actually think it would be more secure to disconnect the electronics power supply and use the backup key only. If the locks were not so insecure or often keyed alike....
@@bobdole4694 THANKYOU! The backup locks tend to fail. I should have put oil in them when they were new.
I have safes like this in several locations through the house, so the problem is to find one holding anything valuable. Good idea to fix a proximity alarm to them as well.
You can also stick a long skinny screwdriver or a piece of metal in a hole in the back and push it in to reset the combination
I use a hardened chain around it held on the sides with grade 5 bolts fender washers. Then use a abus 10 padlock.the metal on the box is stout,fix the chain around it,have it bolted down and its much tougher.
+Greg Taylor LOL. That's one way to fix the problem!
got a photo or a video about this? please post
Thought the sounds was weird. Looked at the time stamp. You've been doing this a long time bravo
There are so many ways to open this without the key or combination, it simply defies belief.
1. As demonstrated above.
2. If batteries charged, push long piece of metal (coat hanger) through rear/bottom holes and hit reset switch. Then reset your new code and open.
3. If not secured down, or mounted on carpet or bouncy surface, simply strike the safe over door (shock the weighted solenoid) repeatedly while 'jerk' rotating the handle, it opens easily within a few good whacks.
4. On the larger fire and gun safe variants, that have plastic panels over the lock face, simply place a large neodymium magnet in a sock or similar slippery cloth and drag over the door face to activate (withdraw) the solenoid.
Do you have a link on the magnet attack? I've not been able to get that to work with a pretty powerful magnet.
Make your owl electro magnet with some iron bar telephone wire or same wire in blue cat 5 put about 50 turns of the still insulated and single strand around the bar and apply 12v. Doesnt need ro be neat but bunched together for propper inductance...... Food for thought. Love your videos.
You've really polished up your game since these days I gotta say
Is there a lock mechanism you could recommend that would replace the vulnerable tube lock it comes with? It would be nice to be able to switch it out and keep the safe.
As mentioned in one of the comments above, the Medeco cam lock works very well as a keyed replacement and it's relatively inexpensive. And I lined mine with some fire retardant foam pads, and place the valuables inside a fire safe bag.
I have found this safe works very well. In order to prevent thieves stealing my valuables I've found it best to place said valuables on a nice sturdy table. Upon removing the valuables, the thief finds a spring plate has just popped up and has let go of a rope. The impact from a Harbour Freight safe seems to cause 100% of thieves to drop the lot as well as take a nap while their face pisses blood.
10/10, would bludgeon again.
You can also use a flat head screwdriver and jam it in at the top of the protruding keypad assembly, yank down and ripped the entire keypad off. Then you just stick your finger in the little hole that the turn knob goes into and push down on the locking lever and then open the safe. The whole process from start to finish takes about 12 seconds.
This also goes for any of the union safes with that particular style keypad. They all have the exact same locking mechanisms. And I can defeat every single one of them, and under 20 seconds.
Good vid but to be fair, you can’t say it offers “no level of security”. I mean, even putting your valuables in a shoe box offers some level of security.
Relevant xkcd: xkcd.com/916/
Yeah, about the same amount.
Especially of you have the shoe box next to the safe.
I lose my valuables, that is the best way I have found to secure them. If I can't find them than surely a robber won't!
Coincidently, it is also the cheapest and only method I can afford. XD
If it was in my brother's shoe box...with his well-worn and well-stinky boots...that would be at least a Master Lock level 7 equivalent!
I get what you mean, but if they are that prepared then they would probably show up with a grinder and make quick work of the sheet metal. The thieves where I live are dumb and crude. They smash in car windows and grab things, they are quick and dirty. My prediction is that just seeing a metal box bolted to the wall is probably enough to deter most thieves from wasting time on it.
Can I get a link to the tool you used to open it?
You can also bang the top and turn the nob at the same time and it will open relatively fast
Just add a heavy duty padlock hasp to it. Or if you want to get technical, add a remote controlled solenoid lock inside the safe that can only be accessed from inside the safe.
What would be cool is if you could show us how to make this safe stronger so anyone can't get in them because I know you can get anyone with magnets with banging on the top and with the tool you showed.
DOH! The SnapSafe 'security locker' I was planning to get has this same bogus lock setup, just mounted on a wedge and re-branded. I appreciate the knowledge LPL.
Thanks for yet another wake up call.
The lock on mine is super-secure. One of the pins is just flopping around with no spring tension and the lock is bound up. Luckily, the code still works so I could replace the whole cam lock without breaking in.
I do appreciate your videos and I know it's easy to open with a lock tool but again I would like to see it picked by hand and you talk through it what to do and not to do etc etc
Keep up the good work I do enjoy them.
Do you have this tool available for purchase on your website?
I picked one similar to this last week for my Dad. his had a crappy wafer lock but was almost as quick to open!
richardwales LOL. A "safe" with a wafer lock. I don't know what to say about that. It's a little sad because many people (who don't spend as much time on TH-cam as us) don't know what a joke they are, and rely on these to safeguard valuables.
Glad to know both that my safe is insecure, and that I can get in without having to schedule with a locksmith. I won't trust important things in the safe anymore, I'll get a better one.
Good luck... glad this video reached someone for whom it could be useful.
I bought one of these also. Mine also opened right up if you gave it a few shakes. I returned it.
Wow, now that's one handy little piece of info! Thank you for the video. I've been considering getting one of these but now you have me pumping the brakes. You mention replacing the cam lock with an Abloy lock.... I'm very handy but know nothing about locks. Can you offer a Abloy replacement lock part number as a suggestion? Also, where do you get one and would it be difficult to replace for someone who has very little knowledge about locks? Thanks again.
Glad you liked it. Sorry, but I don't know the part number. What you would need to do is to open the door and measure the depth of the lock. Most cam locks of the same depth will work.
The tool is a HUK lock pick tool
The cadence and verbal fry is like seeing the open mic footage of a now great comic.
I thought LPL sounded like the safe was so bad that he couldn't face talking about it without a couple of stiff drinks ;)
I have this lock and pick and i cant get it open
They open easily with a magnet too.
Even though I have no plans whatsoever ever to break into a safe, or anything else, I feel the need to order a set of those, just so I can.
whats the name of thoses items
How did I reach video 21 on autoplay?
Have to design a way to lock the panel or put a safety catch to unfasten the panel, or better yet get rid of the key punch lock and back up, replace the locking mechanism with high security lock.
Everyone needs two safes. One left in the master bedroom closet with a few papers in it for the robbers to find, and one fire safe to put in the last place anyone would look. Find that place, and then put a box of dirty laundry over the top of the safe or a box of old books, or etc etc. Something that suits the out of the way place. Works more often than not. A robber will not turn over a pantry, a utility room press, the back of a kitchen cupboard filled with pots and pans. It's too easy.
You don't even have to pick it, just hit the top of the box with your hand and the magnetic lock will retract and the handle can turn freely. There is a lot of videos about this technique and I tried it on my safe, it worked.
i have opened one of these using only a screwdriver, the barrel is not indexed and can simply be rotated with a screwdriver in the notch at the top, the combination had been forgotten, and i had been asked to cut it open, so had nothing to loose and was expecting a fight, there was very little resistance to it turning......
LPL was def tipsy filming this... love it!
Omg, i just found his channel and his voice hasn’t really changed
You can also bang on the top, even if it's bolted to a concrete wall. Sure, you have to bang it harder than if it's freestanding, but you can open it. I know because I lost the key, forgot the combination, the battery was dead, and didn't want to wait for the $30 tool. I didn't know I could use the tool to make a new key, so maybe I'll order the tool anyway. The only purpose of the safe, btw, is to make people feel secure. I have two of these safes, 24 hour security, in a small gated community. If they get past the gate and guards, I don't think a safe (almost always with absolutely anything in them) is going to stop a determined thief.
Have you tried picking the Harbor Freight padlocks? I see you have a video where a Chinese lock had plastic inside that you were able to crack. I was wondering if the HF locks were to same? You can buy 3 in a package for $5.00 on sale. BTW, I really enjoy watching your videos, good stuff.
+vegasfordguy Thanks for watching -- it's always nice to hear from someone who enjoys my videos. I have not tried the 3 pack laminated HF locks. I have picked on their American 700 clone and their “puck” hidden shackle lock. Both have 6 pin brass cores with American Lock keyways. They are both made to VERY poor tolerances and are relatively easy to open. I suggest heavy tension. The binding orders on the locks I have are not at all subtle.
This is a 250 lb 48" high safe!! That's NUTS! I assumed that this was a cheap hotel safe.
Recommendation: Include a long shot or photo of the entire safe in these videos. (The weight and size are in LPL's comments below.)
For years back from today this video was uploaded. LPL, you sound much more gentle today. You develop faster than master lock does 👍
Well what do you know. This was exactly what I was looking for. I was considering buying one of these in the future, but I'm glad I looked up on how easy they could be picked. Thanks.
I'm considering using some solder to disable the lock, sure it'll be an issue if I ever forget the code, but at least it's secure
Hi, I made the mistake of putting keys in safe when I was cleaning and the battery went dead. I ordered the tools you recommended. I am an older lady and you made it look so simple. Can you give me a few more tips to get it open please. Do you wiggle it only sideways or are you supposed to move it up and down also. I saw the spaced part at the top when you started, then I saw it jump to the left. Please help me open the safe. Thank you.
Without the tube lock picking tool,
I push the electronic combination reset button
by putting a rod through the security hole in the back wall of the safe. Then I input the factory reset code ,"159",
and the safe unlocks
without a fancy tube lock picking tool.
But, I would rather have the tube lock picking tool instead.
You for got to mention that with a simple hand held grinder you can cut into a so called real safe as well. So all commercial safes are simply a deterrent.
I just opened one just like that for a guy at work, bop the top and its open, he lost his key, and ran batteries dead. But if you add a spring to hold the selinoid unlocking plate up better, its harder to bop into it.
But the lock is still its weekest link.
Another option is to hide it very well.
For example, you have to crawl under my house where there's only 16" of vertical clearance (not enough room to use a regular shovel). Dig down about 30" where you will hit 11½" thick pad of cured concrete I poured over the top of this safe. You will have to chip through that concret, then get your fancy $30 tool to easily pick the safe.
Congratulations, you now have access to my expired credit card I keep in the safe.
As far as me not knowing you were in the safe...you will need to pour concrete, let it cure, return to place the dirt back, remove all evidence of chipped out concrete...and do this all quietly without alerting the family dog to your presence.
Good Luck!
As they say, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. If you skimp on even one part of your lock, the entire thing is essentially worthless as soon as that cut cost is discovered
That description is gold
i'm not familiar with the harbor freight version , but these are generic made-in-china "safes"
They have a reset button on the hindge side of the door. And that button is accesable through the mounting holes at the bottom.
I have only once failed to open these in under a minute. And that time the customer had tried to get in by forcing the lock , after the batteries died.
@lockpickinglawyer Can you please put a link to the key set up that you purchased on Amazon
I saw a video of a guy cracking one by hitting it on the top while turning the latch.
I think I would do as you said and weld a hasp on it with a descent padlock. Too many similar safes have the same vulnerabilities.👍
I remember when kryptonite first came out with the u-bolt bike locks we used to go around school and pick them with Bic pens. We would unlock the bikes and switch locks on guys’ bikes. Hilarious!
that's not nice. wish I'd thought of it....
Why can't other TH-camrs just get to the point like the LPL does? Others get too caught up in unrelenting exposition and needless channel promotion. Bravo, LPL, your concise videos are only surpassed by your lock picking skills.
My dad gave me one of these a long time ago. Idk if they downgraded or upgraded them but my core is a lot better... Or at least I can't pick it, not that that is saying much.
What about the new harbor freight---
Union safe of company
Have you tried picking one of them open. I noticed they did sum altering on it.
LockPickingLawyer I would like to know your thoughts on this one as well. Same safe, new paint job I suspect...?
What size tool did you use for this? I have the same safe and am trying to buy the right one
Believe it or not, I found one of those with a simple Wafer lock on it...?? Did you sanded those little bumps down on the pick "wires"? I sanded mine down so the pick could slide into the lock easier. Don't know if I should have done that, but I can always use the fingers from one of the other picks anyway. I'd be interested hearing your opinion?
+LDU2U Nothing surprises me about the security products made in China… except maybe the fact that they all don’t have the cheap(er) wafer locks. As for modifying the impressioning tool, I’ve considered doing exactly that because these tools are really spotty about fitting in locks. I have two brands of impressioning tools, with three sizes in each brand, and it’s not unusual to find a lock in which the fit is really close, but none of my tools quite get in the lock. Probably the only reasons I didn’t modify my tools are (i) I don’t pick many tubular locks anymore, and (ii) I mostly SPP these locks now. As a hobbyist, I pick for the enjoyment and challenge. It’s not very fun or challenging to open locks with impressioning tools. I enjoy SPPing more and the method works on a much wider variety of locks (many of which the impressioning tools can’t open). All of that said, how is your modified tool working? I might follow your lead.
I can't really say if it worked any better, certainly not any worse anyway, makes it the same as the Southord tubular pick. The reason I sanded those bumps out because it sometimes sort of 'jumps' into the lock while inserting, and I am not sure when it does 'jump' into the lock how close the pick is in relation to the pins? I have to admit I'm not very good at tubular locks though. SPP'ng is OK, but being a hobbyist myself, I don't particularly like SPP'ng a tubular with only one pins rotation of the core. In the real world one would need to SPP it again twice, or maybe even three times before the locking latch mechanism would move past the point whereby the lock can actually get opened to gain access. This is the only reason I continue using a tubular pick, you can keep rotating the core until the safe or some other container actually opens to gain access. Just my personal thing you understand. A lock for me has to be opened to gain me access, and usually you have to pick it again, or again before the container is actually opened? I see people SPP'ng tubular locks on YT, but they only turn the core one pin position and say it's open, but in reality it would usually not be opened by just rotating of the core to one pins position, they would have to re-pick it again once or twice, or even more until the lock latching mechanism actually opens the safe or whatever, and then the reverse procedure to re-lock it. I have this thing about lock picking as if I was out in the field...LOL. I really enjoy your videos presentations, and you clearly explain things, they are a pleasure to watch LPL ;-)
+LDU2U You make a good point... but once you start on locks that have varying spring tension and/or varying length driver pins (like the ACE II), the impressioning tool is of limited use. As for moving the core multiple positions -- check out my video #91.
Stupid me, I forgot I watched that video...DOH! Of course, that's all one has to do after SPP'ng. Just delete my ramblings before...LOL. I have a couple of those SPP'ng picks, I'll have a go at that. Thanks.
I have so the exact same Safe sitting here - in Germany, without Harbor Freight in reach, and I'm waiting to see the pickset arrive - because I genuinely lost the combination. There's nothing In there, I'd really need - but to have a save is better as to have none.
Number 21!? This is og, thanks TH-cam recommendations 😄
Shammy D me too.
You could also just bounce it up and down on the bed to trigger the spring in the safe
I would know even before you tried to get into it because I put a Post It Note on the front, stating “If you plan to pick this lock, please let me know.”
With that lick can U pick all safes with that lick style with it
It's like the old u-locks you could open with the cap of a bic pen lol
Yes ,I’m surprised lpl has not given us a demonstration of that method.
Hi please give me the link to the shop to buy the tool key
I guess you can always buy one, take a dump in it, and surprise the next guy who tries to break into it. XD
Can you completely ruin the mechanical override with super glue or something and just rely on the keycode pad to open it? Would that make it a lot better?
Where can you buy that tool? I need it for a science project.
amazon
Whilst I agree that this is easy to get into. How many opportunist thieves have that equipment on them? 1 -1000?
My family used one similar as a fire box. kept the children out, but all you would find is a photo album.
please add closed captions
Wow, if I was a criminal, I’ll just watch all your videos and know how to easily break into anyone safe with little to no knowledge on how to do so thank you
A very interesting video and a good public service. Do you have any recommendations for a more secure wall safe?
Thanks. I'm not really that knowledgeable about safes, but its a matter of balancing cost and security. I can recommend absurdly tough safes, but at what cost?
My philosophy for securing something is only have one path in. Having an override makes the lock only as strong as its weakest link. A charging port is the way to go.
LPL, we have one of these Safes but the tubular lock does not have the center slot on the internal circular part of the lock. I bough an impression tool, but it has a pin on the interior to line up with the notch on the internal circular part of the lock. This means that the Impression tool does not go into the lock.
How do you overcome this?
It look somewhat like the lock on video 224. This also does not have the notch.
Great video! What is the name of the tool you used to open it? I am going to have to order one for my safe. Lost both sets of keys. Thank you!
You don't even need the key if it's not bolted into the wall. Just take the safe, put a slight pressure on the knob as if turning it open and while you do that just drop the safe onto your bed from about a foot above your bed. When it bounces just right there is a moment where the lock disengages and it just opens...
@@KleinKaptein I have a very large safe. Weighs about 250-300 pounds. I got that tool the other day and was able to open it in a matter of seconds. Kinda scary how fast I was able to open it.
@@beefneckjoe5634 Just hope a burgler doesn't find your tool.
@@MrNateSPF most won't look for the tool, they will just try to carry the whole thing away.
Dont give a shit you can it the top what the name of the tool?
LPL you a master of your craft, your psa announcements genuine.. At the sake of sounding critical. Does it cross your mind that your videos have the potential to cause as much harm as good.
This is the funniest LPL video ever! The way he laughs at himself for indicating the safe belonged to the viewer. And the remark of welding a decent lock to it! Top drawer my good man!
Why do electronic locks always have backup with key? Is it really needed? What if spoil this lock somehow? Fill by expoxid resin, for example?
Let's be realistic here most people/thieves do not carry or own a tool like that but thanks for sharing with the thieves how to do it
I need this as mine never showed low battery indication, but the electronics went dead.
what the name of that key? where to buy he in the Philippines?
I can simplify. Stay away from Harbor Freight. I would not even buy a bottle of water there.
Wow… thanks for the video. In fact I have no idea how the safe was locked without my changing the passwords. I need to unlock it now. Where can I get this tool from? 😅